Is It Time To Regulate The Resale Sector? by Nicole Kozlov

#RETRO

SECONDHAND

PREOWNED IS IT TIME TO REGULATE THE RESALE SECTOR?

CIRCULAR ECONOMY

RESALE #VINTAGE

Title: Is it Time to Regulate the Resale Sector? Nicole Kozlov N0778628 FASH30015 Innovation in Fashion Business 202021 Half Year 2 Supervisor: Karen Priestly 6322 words

FIG. 1 Depop Profile at Startup (2021) Startup Xplore [online]

5 9 13

INTRODUCTION: Context & Rationale Aim Objectives

METHODOLOGY

LITERATURE REVIEW: CHAPTER 1: The Origins and Evolution of the Secondhand Market CHAPTER 2: The Secondhand Consumer CHAPTER 3: The Practices and Roles of the Sellers CHAPTER 4: The Big Names in the Resale Sector Summary of Literature Review

CONTEN

31 37 41

NTS

PRIMARY RESEARCH: The Vendors: Interview with a Depop seller The Consumers: Instagram survey analysing Generation Z consumer behaviour

CONCLUSION: Summary of Findings Proposed Outcome

REFERENCE LISTS: Illustrations References Bibliography Appendices (Appendix.1, Appendix. 2)

INTRODUCTION 5

CONTEXT & RATIONALE

It appears that society globally is steering towards a circular economy in order “to increase prosperity, while reducing dependence on primary materials and energy” (Ellen MacArthur Foundation 2015). For the fashion industry to leverage and pioneer this business model, it relies on the secondhand fashion sector to ensure recycling, upcycling and donating within the industry is happening. Fortunately, the secondhand clothing sector is set to exponentially grow by 185% in the next 10 years (Park, Martinez 2020), potentially fuelling the fashion industry’s revenue and paving the way for a sustainable fashion industry. Although it is anticipated that secondhand “will play a huge role in the future fashion landscape” (McKinsey 2020), there has been research suggesting that the sector is not entirely ‘secondhand’, subsequently shining a light on ethical issues within the sector. This research report will explore the evolution of the secondhand sector, it’s consumer, the practices and roles of sellers on ‘Peer to Peer’ marketplaces and the ecommerce resale platforms. The research report will highlight and explain the importance of the secondhand market in the fashion industry. It is common knowledge worldwide that it is imperative for fashion to become completely sustainable; McKinsey reported consumer sentiments towards sustainability have changed, with 57% making substantial changes to their lifestyle in order to become more sustainable consumers (McKinsey 2020). This demonstrates that there is a demand for sustainable fashion, with secondhand fashion providing one of many solutions for sustainability. Consumer sentiment and the urgency for a change in shopping habits highlight the importance for secondhand fashion to be at the forefront of the fashion industry, stimulating a circular economy.

The study will provide evidence to show that the secondhand fashion sector will experience a prosperous future, whilst highlighting potential ethical issues within the sector. The outcome of the research will provide a solution to the ethical issues raised, to encourage a fully transparent and thriving secondhand fashion sector. The beneficiaries of the study will be the platforms, sellers and consumers, specifically in the resale sector. Consumers will be made aware of the fact that buying through resale sites cannot guarantee authenticity and transparency of product, ultimately making them more conscious consumers. On the other hand, the study will encourage sellers to re-evaluate their practices of trading through resale sites ensuring that they are remaining ethical and transparent, honouring the true purpose of secondhand. Furthermore, the positive impact the study will have on consumers and sellers will subsequently benefit resale platforms which should role model and showcase good practice within the industry as a whole.

FIG 2. Burberry (2019) Redding [online]

FIG 3. Flea Market in Leipzig, Germany (2020) Reiseuhu [online]

AIM

The project investigates the growing secondhand fashion industry and how it has evolved, with emphasis on the resale sector, evaluating the practices of sellers and analysing the Generation Z secondhand consumer.

OBJECTIVES 1. 2. 3. 4.

To explore the current global secondhand sector, analysing how it has evolved.

To investigate the practices and roles of the sellers on resale platforms.

To identify resale brands or sites, exploring brand popularity among Generation Z. To assess why Generation Z is the resale sector’s largest consumer and how the consumer has evolved, assessing consumer behaviour.

METHODOLOGY 9

To gain a contextual understanding as well as a business understanding of the secondhand fashion sector, secondary research was carried out in the form of a literature review. The sources studied and reviewed include articles, blogs, books, business reports, conference proceedings, government publications, journal articles and university theses. The majority of the sources reviewed are academic, with the addition of some non-academic articles.. This has helped to broaden the scope of the research and ensure high quality and reliable information has been reviewed and analysed.The secondary research undertaken has identified two gaps in knowledge; primary research has been conducted to deepen the scope of research and fill these gaps.

Exploring the practices of a seller in the resale sector To understand how an independent seller of a resale site sources product and sells it, an interview was conducted with a verified Depop seller. The interview was conducted via video call, in a semi-structured format consisting of open-ended questions. This meant that the order of questions varied and allowed for each question to be discussed freely allowing additional and unplanned questions to be asked where relevant (Saunders et al. 2015). The questions asked related to the practices of the seller, for example asking about how they source product or market to their consumer. This helped to form a detailed understanding of the process of sourcing and selling secondhand product through a resale site. The interview was recorded in order to generate a transcript, so that the qualitative data could be analysed in detail. Qualitive data has been collected for this type of primary research in order to form a type of case study to answer the research question. Qualitative data is appropriate for case studies and is usually associated with them (Denscombe 2014). Qualitative data has been described as ‘thin data’, but still valuable data as it collects information related to “lives, events, and settings” (Brekhus, Galliher, Gubrium 2005). This is essential to piece together the exact sequence of practices that the Depop seller follows in order to operate their business. Thematic analysis has been utilised to identify and report themes within the interview transcript (Nowell et al. 2017), using coding “to organize and group similarly coded data into categories” (Saldana 2008), to facilitate analysis of the interview and defining the purpose of the primary research.

FIG 4. Record Player (2021) Pinterest [online]

FIG 5. Vintage Neon Sign (2021) Clem Onojeghuo [online]

Advancing the research of consumer behaviour amongst Generation Z consumers of secondhand

To explore consumer behaviour of Generation Z in more detail a survey was carried out through Instagram, using Instagram polls. The sample size consists of 100 respondents of all genders aged 18 to 24, this age group representing Generation Z, with all respondents remaining anonymous. The questions asked combined both close-ended and open-ended questions, providing both qualitative and quantitative data. The survey included questions regarding which resale platforms consumers use and questions which allowed the consumers to give their opinion on the current resale sector and its future. The qualitative data helps to provide an in-depth insight into consumer behaviour (Almeida et al. 2017), subsequently helping to identify patterns in respondents’ answers. Alternatively, some questions were closed-ended therefore providing numerical data, otherwise known as quantitative data. A mono method quantitative study was carried out since only one data collection technique was used, which was the use of Instagram polls (Saunders et al. 2015). The quantitative data has been presented in a range of data visualizations or infographics. A potential limitation within this study is the sample group, although the sample group is the target age group comprised of mixed genders; the respondents are primarily all of a similar socio-economic group, therefore creating a research bias towards that specific group.

FIG 6. Retro sign in shop front of vintage clothing store (2020) Jessica Chambers [online]

Limitations Additional proposed primary study was market research into secondhand brick-and-mortar stores, including thrift and charity stores. However, the current Covid-19 pandemic has limited the possibility of this study. Current UK laws associated with the pandemic mean that all non-essential stores including thrift and charity stores are closed until further notice, therefore this primary research could not be carried out.

I confirm that all protocol has been conducted to ensure ethical practice within each study, this includes ethical approval and consent (see appendices).

LITERA

REV 13

FIG 7. Vintage clothing store (2020) Fehr [online]

ATURE

FIG 8. Car boot sale (2021) LDNFASHION [online]

CHAPTER 1 15

The Origins and Evolution of the Secondhand Market The concept of secondhand trade, which Palmer defines as “a socially defined tool enabling consumption, but without seeing the purchase itself as the end game” (Palmer 2005), is said to have arisen during the 16th century, as product scarcity began to diminish and daily materials and tools were more abundant (Palmer 2005), resulting in oversupply. Riello states that the ‘right to dress’ is based on hierarchy and legislation which was guided by sumptuary laws (laws of consumption), laws which span 350 years of English and Scottish history (Riello 2019). Royalty was permitted to consume the most luxurious and excessive garments and products, whereas having lower hierarchal status would mean that one was less entitled to excessive and costly consumption. The purpose of the law was to distinguish societal class (Riello 2019). To satisfy consumption, manufacturing of product increased rapidly, therefore there were often surplus garments and accessories of the rich (Fitzwater n.d.) which secondhand tradesmen would sell on. “The [secondhand] commodities accumulated by non-elite women and men represented many things including savings, investments, if you will, which retained values that could be realized” (Palmer 2005). Palmer highlights that the initial secondhand consumer was the ‘non-elite’ and that their consumer priorities were to save and invest, ultimately defining the secondhand consumer at that time. Secondhand trade contributed to a circular economy, product began to circulate through society eventually reducing the complexity of hierarchal dressing and sumptuary laws (Riello 2019), and by end of the 1800s Veblen’s ‘trickle-down’ theory was introduced. This is the theory that the most modern style will be adopted by society’s most affluent and wealthy first and once they have developed an “aesthetic nausea” (Veblen 1899) towards the latest styles they would later reject them, and the lower classes would adopt these styles. Veblen refers to this as ‘conspicuous waste’. “And as the upper leisure class sets the pace in all matters of decency, the result for the rest of society also is a gradual amelioration of the scheme of dress” (Veblen 1899). The trickle-down effect explains how the secondhand market would have integrated into society, lower income and lower-class individuals would have consumed the preowned styles and garments of the wealthy classes.

FIG 9. Victorian era dress (n.d.) Victorian Era [online]

FIG 11. Punks hanging out on the Kings Road, London (1983) Polhemus [online]

Post-war, secondhand style emerged due to the development of subcultures (see FIG 10, 11), in which many mod, punks and other alternative groups would adorn themselves in “second-hand clothes found in jumble sales and ragmarkets as the raw material for the creation of style”(McRobbie 1989). McRobbie alludes to the secondhand consumer of the 1970s and 80s; no longer were they the ‘non-elite’ and of weaker pecuniary class, but instead McRobbie argues that consumers, initially hippies, often “denounced material wealth and sought some higher reality, expressing this choice externally through a whole variety of old and second-hand clothes.”(McRobbie 1989) This highlights a turning point and a divide for consumerism in the secondhand market. The purchase of secondhand clothing was no longer confined to utilitarian gain, with Rudawska describing the act of consumption being carried out in an efficient and rational manner (Rudawska et al. 2015). In support of this, Hobbs identifies that “The frugal are less materialistic and less prone to purchase compulsively” (Hobbs 2016). By contrast, Hobbs argues that hedonistic values were a driver for development of the secondhand market as it is suggested that secondhand consumers are now driven by “perceived value, uniqueness and rarity” (Hobbs 2016), just as McRobbie alluded to the fact that subcultures of the 1970s and 80s purchased to satisfy their hedonistic values.

FIG 10. Rocker at the Ace Café reunion Croydon, London (1990s) Polhemus [online]

Hedonistic values of consumerism still prevail in the secondhand market in 2021, however there is so much more driving consumers to purchase secondhand; it is argued that now consumers are influenced by upcycling, recycling, donating and reselling (Hürlimann 2021). This demonstrates that it is now the sustainable nature of the secondhand market which is encouraging consumers. “In recent years, resale sites have realised that they’re finally able to capitalise on their businesses’ inherent sustainability factor” (Brooke 2019), which highlights the current motivator behind secondhand shopping, in contrast to the financial motivator of previous centuries. Although the secondhand fashion industry has survived for centuries, accounts over the years have highlighted changes in the consumer decision-making process to buy secondhand (Kotler 2015).

Today, the fashion industry’s secondhand market is worth $28billion, and as of 2019 this accounts for 7.4% of the $379billion global fashion industry (Adegeest 2020). By 2024, the market is set to increase over 200% to $64billion (ThredUp 2020). ThredUp explains that the secondhand market is split into two subsectors: ‘resale’ and ‘traditional thrift & donation’, with Industry experts predicting that the resale segment is on course to grow by 39% CAGR, taking over the traditional thrift and donation market. A report on the secondhand apparel market states that the resale market’s compound annual growth rate is what is fuelling the growth of the secondhand market (Future Market Insights 2020). Moreover, the report also suggests that more consumers are electing to shop from resale sites over traditional thrift and charity, while ThredUp adds that “Resale is expected to take over the traditional thrift and donation segment by 2024” (ThredUp 2020), highlighting a divide in the market, with charity and thrift losing traction due to the growth of resale sites and brands.

Secondhand market is worth

$28bn

FIG 12. Secondhand clothing (2021) Sound Trout [Instagram]

CHAPTER 2 19

The Secondhand Consumer Generation Z and Millennials are the largest consumers of secondhand fashion, more so Generation Z, with ThredUp reporting that in 2019, 40% of Generation Z and 30% of Millennials purchased secondhand (ThredUp 2020). This is supported by Generation Z’s purchase motivators, and the consumer decisionmaking process referred to in the first chapter (see FIG 13). The model demonstrates the psychological process behind a consumer’s motivation to buy a product. In the case of secondhand fashion at the ‘Problem Recognition’ stage, Generation Z purchases secondhand in order to be sustainable, economical, individual and authentic (Sweet 2019); the “Consumers of secondhand products value the frugality and ethical aspects of second-hand products as it can give them the status of an ethical consumer” (Brummer 2020). This suggests that nowadays Generation Z is motivated to purchase secondhand apparel to boost their social and ethical status. Although not essential, they feel that they have a social responsibility; “by being seen as someone who cares for the environment, a consumer can ensure they meet social norms and community standards” (Green, Peloza 2011). This highlights how important it is for Generation Z to be a sustainable customer and reinforces their motivation to purchase secondhand.

Problem

recognition

Information search

Evaluation of

“by being seen as someone who cares for the environment, a consumer can ensure they meet social norms and community Consumer Decision-Making standards” Process alternatives

Purchase decision

Postpurchase behaviour

(Green, Peloza 2011)

FIG 13. Consumer decision-making process (2021) Own model developed Wfrom Kotler (2015)

The secondhand consumer has evolved over the last 500 years or so. To explore this in more detail Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs contextualises consumers’ needs for purchasing products (see FIG 14). The base of the pyramid is the most important need, with Maslow highlighting that ‘Physiological needs’ are the most vital for a human body to fully function. Moving up the pyramid there are the ‘Safety needs’ which relate to the security and safety of the individual, the sense of self-control, including emotional and financial security. The following levels of the pyramid are ‘Love and belongingness needs’ and ‘Esteem needs’. These first four levels are referred to as ‘deficiency needs’, or basic needs. For a consumer to move up the pyramid the most basic need must be met. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is complete with the ‘Self-actualisation’ level which is defined as a ‘growth need’. Maslow states that this is not a stage which fulfils deprivation, but moreover a stage which fulfils desire (Maslow 1943; McLeod 2020).

ESTEEM NEEDS Prestige and feeling of accomplishment

Psychological needs

BELONGINGNESS AND LOVE NEEDS Intimate reltionships, friends

M as

’s

Hi er

SELF ACTUALISATION Acheiving one’s full potential, including creative activities

Self-fulfillment needs

SAFETY NEEDS Security, safety PHYSIOLOGICAL NEEDS Food, water, warmth, rest

FIG 14. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (2021) Own model, developed from Mcleod (2020)

Basic needs

FIG 15. Vintage store Paris, France (2019) Ty Koh [online]

From the 16th century to the 20th century the secondhand consumer would have been motivated to purchase secondhand to meet the deficiency needs of the pyramid (see FIG 14), due to financial instability from a low income and the need to dress for function and not desire, as illustrated in the first chapter. Alternatively, the modern-day consumer has a broader range of needs. Not only do they purchase secondhand to satisfy their basic needs, but also to fulfil their growth needs; they are purchasing for “selffulfillment, seeking personal growth and peak experiences.” (McLeod 2020) This is supported in the beginning of this chapter, in which the current and predominant secondhand consumer is Generation Z, this generation often purchasing secondhand for sustainable reasons, in order to feel that they are complying with society (Green, Peloza 2011). A study by Washington State University outlined Generation Z’s drivers for purchasing secondhand clothing, identifying financial benefit, social value, emotional value, convenience value, sustainability value and perceived behaviour control (Silva et al. 2020). All these values align with Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, including self-actualization. The development of secondhand consumer needs show how the consumer has evolved. Furthermore, Duygun suggests that “with these consumption habits, it is observed that some differences arise with the change and transformation of the society structure in which individuals live. Originating from the traditional society where fulfilling basic needs [is a priority], come the modern-days where certain demands started to turn into needs.” (Duygun 2020). This describes the evolution of the secondhand consumer and suggests that secondhand purchase is no longer motivated by basic needs alone, but also lifestyle, social and hedonistic values, as suggested in the first chapter. This gives rise to ethical questions; the high-income consumer who buys secondhand for self-actualization or hedonistic reasons is effectively pushing up demand for secondhand clothing; in response, sellers increase the price of their stock (Norvill 2020). This means that the original secondhand consumer, who is reliant on secondhand or resale to meet their basic needs, as highlighted by Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, is now unable to afford secondhand clothing (Jacob 2020).

“Innovators and early adopters who pursue the latest products constantly are more highly motivated to resell previous versions” (Kim, Kim 2020)

CHAPTER 3 23

The Practices and Roles of the Sellers

In order for resale sites to operate, they rely on sellers who are often both seller and consumer. This type of relationship is referred to as Customer to Customer (C2C) transactions, “because the traditional boundary has dissolved in the face of such new market environments [secondhand] and consumer behaviors, the consumers’ reselling behavior has become far more active.” (Kim, Kim 2020) This suggests that there has been an increase in Customer to Customer transactions due to the development of the secondhand market. The motivation for secondhand sellers is the opportunity to re-invest in newer, first-hand items (Turk 2019). To support this, Kim and Kim explain that “Innovators and early adopters who pursue the latest products constantly are more highly motivated to resell previous versions” (Kim, Kim 2020). This cycle means that sellers are recovering the costs of the new investments by selling their old investments, often at a higher price than originally purchased.

FIG 16. Vintage Burberry, Portugal (2018) PNG Design [online]

Second Cycle of Consumption

FIG 17. Second cycle of consumption (2018) Turunen [eBook]

FIG 18. Vintage Adidas (2020) Norvill [online]

The second cycle of consumption (see FIG 17) explains how consumers in the secondhand sector assume the role of sellers, buyers, users and disposers. Turunen and others explore in detail the movement of product in the secondhand market, from how it is acquired, possessed and then disposed of using the second cycle of consumption. However, it is noted that little is known about the production phase during which disposed items become new items for a consumer as it is stated that “studies exploring the reasons and practices as to why and how the disposer consumer is passing on unique pieces of secondhand or vintage products have been lacking.” (Turunen et al. 2018). This suggests that ‘consumers as sellers’ are unclear of the lifecycle of the goods they are sourcing to sell on to ‘consumers as buyers’. This is likely to be the case when sellers on resale sites source their products from wholesalers of vintage or secondhand clothing. By contrast, recent reports have revealed that many resale site sellers are aware of where their product is sourced, often from fast fashion brands or sites, selling clothing which is in demand and aligns with current trends, for example AliExpress, owned by Alibaba, one of the world’s leading e-commerce companies (Ferriera 2021). Either the sellers are independently sourcing product from these sites or ‘dropshipping’, to avoid the need to consider inventory or the shipping of product (Ferriera 2021), and subsequently having very little involvement in the movement of product. Sellers who adopt both these methods are often sourcing product very cheaply and then flipping the prices of the products, ultimately profiting large amounts of money (Rex 2020). This process of the consumption cycle in the resale market can be seen to be unethical as it drives up the price of secondhand clothing, consequently gentrifying this fashion sector; it is argued that “fashion shifts to fit the demands of an affluent younger class” (Rajjo Ronobir 2020). This highlights that sellers of resale sites are catering to a wealthier consumer, preventing the lower income consumer from purchasing secondhand fashion (Norvill 2020). In essence, this suggests that the resale market has become unregulated (Norvill 2020), creating gentrification within the sector.

FIG 19. Vintage clothing rail (2020) Buxton [online]

CHAPTER 4 27

The Big Names in the Resale Sector FIG 20. Perceptual map (2021) Own model. Developed from ThredUp Resale Report 2020

There are many resale platforms, sites, brands and apps where consumers can purchase ‘secondhand’ clothing. Four names which dominate the current resale market are Depop, eBay, Vinted and Vestiaire Collective (You Magazine 2019). The competitor analysis of both Depop and eBay demonstrates how and why each brand appeals to Generation Z, illustrating the evolution of the resale consumer and their purchase motivations in the 21st Century.

Depop is said to be the most popular resale app in the world (You Magazine 2019), as it was reported there were 19 million registered users in March 2020. The app’s success is due to the fact it has a global reach with users in over 147 countries (Pentelow 2020). Generation Z dominates the app with 90% of its active users under the age of 26, according to Maria Raga CEO of Depop (Schneier 2019). To support this, many sources have labelled it ‘Gen Z’s favourite shopping app’ (Schneier 2019; Moshakis 2019). The appeal to Generation Z is the Instagram-style format as it is suggested that the “social-media style interface has secured its popularity among Gen Z” (Pentelow 2020). This is a contributing factor to Depop’s popularity among Generation Z as it is reported that 74% use Instagram on a weekly basis compared to that of 71% of Millennials (Cox 2019), showing that the format of Depop’s app is what draws its largest consumer, Generation Z. The perceptual map (see FIG 20) also reinforces the fact that it is a social, ‘Peer to Peer’ style marketplace. Additionally, the map places the resale app in the middle of ‘luxury’ and ‘mass’, due to it selling a range of fashion products. Depop’s UK Commercial Vice President Rachel Swidenbank explains that Depop has “the most unique assortments you can find, with over 20 million items available. Some of our top-selling categories are resold streetwear, vintage, and designer items, in addition to recycled and reworked items,” (Swidenbank (Pentelow 2020)), ultimately making it very competitive amongst other resale brands that may only resell in one fashion sector.

Despite not being the most popular secondhand online retailer in 2021, eBay is the largest resale site globally with 185 million active buyers recorded at the end of 2019 (You Magazine 2019; Digital Commerce360 2021). Although the site is one of the original and oldest buy and sell marketplaces (You Magazine 2019), it has still caught traction with Generation Z; eBay reports that 81% of Gen Z agree that buying secondhand goods has become more prolific in 2020 (eBay 2021). EBay also suggests that Generation Z’s incentives to use the platform are financially and sustainably driven (eBay 2021). This also highlights the key purchase motivations of Generation Z consumers when buying secondhand. EBay also has a strong international presence and sells a huge range from luxury to mass market product (see perceptual map FIG 20) including apparel, ultimately making it very competitive against the likes of Depop (Bhasin 2019).

FIG 21. Wholesalers (2019) Vintage Planet Ltd. [online]

Summary of Literature Review This literature review identifies that the secondhand market has evolved over the last few centuries and consumer motivations to purchase secondhand clothing are not only for utilitarian reasons or rational consumption, but also for self-fulfilment, hedonistic and social/lifestyle purposes. Furthermore, it has highlighted the fact that the resale sector is growing exponentially, with growth fuelled by Generation Z consumers, the most prolific users of buy and sell marketplaces such as Depop and eBay. The ability of any secondhand consumer to become a seller on these sites potentially leads to gentrification within resale sites, as it has been noted that these sites are difficult to regulate, opening the way for sellers to increase their prices. However, there is little research exploring fundamental reasons for this ethical issue. This has identified a gap in research around the exact practices of sellers on resale sites. To explore this issue further, primary research regarding the roles and practices of a seller was undertaken. Additional primary research exploring consumer behaviour of Generation Z was also conducted in order to gain a deeper understanding of what makes this generation so invested in the resale sector.

PRIMARY

RESEARCH Many resale platforms such as Depop and eBay utilise a Peer to Peer (P2P) marketplace, with buyers and sellers relying on finding one another to sell and purchase goods. This set up enables these types of marketplaces to operate (Einav et al. 2016). Ultimately, the buyers and sellers, or consumers and vendors are the key players in maintaining the success of resale sites, platforms or brands.

FIG 22. Vintage Nike SpellOut Sweatshirt (2021) eBay [online]

FIG 23. Vintage Nike SpellOut Sweatshirt in Cream (2021) Vintique [online]

The Vendors:

Interview with a verified Depop seller It has been identified that a main driver for selling secondhand products through resale sites is financial gain. As suggested in the third chapter of the literature review, resellers are motivated by recovering the cost of new investments by selling on their pre-owned items. The Depop seller interviewed explained their initial motivation to launching their resell business Sound Trout, saying “I was into my trainers and wanted to get a bit of money together to get some more trainers, and then from there just sort of got hooked, buying things cheap, then selling them on” (Appendix. 1). The seller then noted that economic factors were the main motivator for also being a consumer on the site (Appendix. 1). Thus, the resale seller is commonly driven by financial gain to assume the role of a seller, but is also inclined to become a consumer of secondhand, for the same financial reasons. Furthermore, the literature review alludes to the idea that consumers are often motivated to purchase secondhand for social and lifestyle reasons, viewing their purchasing choices as underpinning their sense of self/identify, while ensuring that they have made contributions towards sustainability. In support of this, the primary research carried out also identified that these were the main motivators for a typical resale seller. The seller interviewed explained that after financial incentive, key motivators when buying or selling secondhand clothing are individuality and sustainability, with Depop boosting a seller’s publicity if the seller shows transparency and can prove to be a sustainable resale brand (see Appendix. 1).

The research also serves as evidence that for a seller there is a ‘sense of community’, which subsequently facilitates the sourcing of product and the entire selling process. This is particularly true when it comes to determining whether a branded or luxury secondhand product is authentic or not, which is an increasing concern within the resale sector (Beauloye ca. 2021). The interviewee explained that it is “like a vintage secondhand community and sellers want to help sellers out… I can be advised by other sellers if a product is authentic or not.” (see Appendix. 1). This is a practice that sellers in the resale sector are obliged to undertake to ensure they are not selling counterfeit products, ultimately striving to remain sustainably and ethically transparent. However, the seller notes that the issue of counterfeit goods is still hard to regulate on Depop. The site has a handbook which explains to sellers what good practice looks like within the sector and outlines the rules with the threat of potential bans in instances of malpractice (see FIG), however with so many counterfeit products circulating on the site, it is a challenge to regulate. The literature review refers to potential ethical issues within the resale sector around the increase in product price across the market, which is making secondhand clothing less accessible to lower income consumers. To explore this further, the Depop seller was asked how they respond to demand and their pricing strategy. In the case of vintage Nike sweatshirts with the large brand lettering across the chest (see FIG 22, 23), at the beginning of 2020 it was noted that they would be sold for £35 through Depop. However, as demand increased over the past year, so did the price of the sweatshirts; typically, they are now sold for somewhere between £60 to £100 (see Appendix. 1). This is an example of how a seller responds to consumer demands and that increase in demand is a main factor driving the increase in price of secondhand apparel. However, the seller claimed that their product is always priced 5% to 10% lower than the original retail price of a product to ensure the product sells (see Appendix. 1).

Currently there has been little research conducted on the practices of sellers in the resale sector and therefore the Depop seller interviewed was asked how they source product and their knowledge of the lifecycle of the product which they are trading. The primary research highlighted that the pandemic had a significant impact on how sellers were able to source product. The interviewee explained that before the pandemic they would source product from pop-up events, car boot sales and charity shops, in addition to sourcing online and from wholesalers. This enabled the seller to select a more niche product range, as they could “cherry pick the best items and the items that are quite individual and unique” (see Appendix. 1), which is important as it helps a seller stand out amongst other sellers on resale sites. However, during the pandemic sourcing of product has been considerably limited, with the Depop seller explaining that they have only had access to online or wholesalers. Apparently, it is common for sellers to use the same wholesalers, resulting in many sellers on sites like Depop having very similar stock (see Appendix. 1). This is potentially problematic, as In order for a seller to remain competitive and increase sales, they are heavily reliant on selling a varied range of product. Exclusively sourcing from wholesalers, in addition to increased demand, is also driving up the price of resale. The interviewee explained that sellers pay a premium when sourcing from wholesalers and subsequently, sellers are obliged to increase product price to ensure they recover the costs of inventory (see Appendix. 1). This cycle means that lower income consumers lose out as they are unable to afford secondhand on resale sites, as suggested in the literature review.

FIG 24. Wholesale Vintage Clothing (n.d.) Fas In Frank Vintage [online]

FIG 25. The North Face Puffer Giveaway (2021) Sound Trout [Instagram]

The primary research identified that the resale market is a very competitive one and being able to stand out as a seller is the key to increasing sales. In addition to offering unique stock, the Depop seller said that to remain competitive, the most effective way to market their brand Sound Trout is via Instagram. This involves frequently and consistently posting, and being in touch with the consumer, who the seller notes belongs to Generation Z (see Appendix. 1). Most recently the seller had offered a ‘giveaway’ through Instagram in which the brand account gained 200+ followers from (see Appendix. 1), demonstrating that marketing through social media is critical for sellers in the resale sector, as it reaches the dominating Generation Z consumer (Schneier 2019). Despite the resale market being incredibly competitive, the seller interviewed believes that the market has a future and not just an online, virtual one, explaining that the increased demand for online resale has now created a huge trend for vintage and secondhand which, they believe, will ultimately trickle down to the high street, therefore ensuring that thrift, vintage or charity stores will not lose out to online resale (see Appendix. 1).

The Consumers:

Instagram survey analysing Generation Z consumer behaviour Consumers are a key player in the resale sector. Buyers rely on them to buy their products and as referenced in the second cycle of consumption (see FIG 17) and literature review, many consumers are now assuming the role of a buyer. The predominant consumer is Generation Z, as described by the Depop seller interviewed, and as outlined in the literature review, with 79% of Generation Z expressing that they purchase secondhand (see Appendix. 2).

The Resale Sites/Brands Consumers Use

FIG 26. The resale sites/brands consumers use (2021) Own Model (see Appendix. 2)

With the resale sector exponentially growing, there is an increasing number of resale sites, brands and apps that are all competing. The Instagram survey carried out asked the sample group which platforms they use to purchase secondhand apparel. The results showed that Depop is the most popular, with 61 respondents claiming they use the resale site. Ebay was the second most popular with 16 users (see FIG 26). This supports the last chapter of the literature review which states that Depop is the most popular resale site and that both Depop and eBay are popular among Generation Z. The survey also revealed that Vinted, Vestiaire Collective, Facebook Marketplace and ASOS Marketplace were also used by Generation Z consumers. Furthermore, the survey also highlighted that Generation Z is inclined to shop from a variety of other resale sites and brands, such as Reddit, Goat and Beyond Retro (see Appendix. 2). This confirms that the resale market is very competitive, with Generation Z utilising other sites, as well as Depop and eBay. The literature review notes that the resale sector is increasing in popularity and that Generation Z is fuelling this increase. To understand why specifically Generation Z, the survey asked this generation why they thought resale sites were gaining traction. The research carried out identified trends such as sustainability, financial gain, e-commerce and fashion trends being the main motivator for Generation Z to purchase secondhand (see Appendix. 2). These factors demonstrate that secondhand is now not only purchased for utilitarian purpose, but also for self-fulfilment.

The literature review identified potential ethical issues within the secondhand sector, including concerns around product price and the transparency of where and how product is sourced. By contrast, the Instagram survey identified that 76% of Generation Z believe that resale sites and brands are affordable, however this could be argued to be a subjective opinion as it suggested “the definition of what constitutes an “affordable” price is thus a normative one that, according to some, lacks an economic foundation” (Niëns et al. 2012). However, when asked if they believed resale sites or brands are transparent on sustainability and ethicality of product, over half said no (see Appendix. 2). This shows that consumers are unclear if the ‘secondhand’ products they are purchasing through resale sites are truly secondhand. This primary research suggests that most Generation Z consumers think the resale sector is affordable, however over half express concerns that the sector is not transparent (see Appendix. 2).

76%

of consumers think the resale sector is affordable

To understand what consumers thought of the scope of the resale sector and its longevity, they were asked if they believed the resale sector would eventually take over the fast fashion sector, which was worth $35.8 billion in 2019 (Isakov 2020). More respondents believed that resale would not take over fast fashion, due to fast fashion being consistently cheap and accessible to those with less money, in addition to the frequency of trends and seasons within the fast fashion sector. In contrast, a smaller portion of the sample group wanted to believe that resale could take over fast fashion, or that it would take over fast fashion due to consumers becoming more sustainably conscious (see Appendix. 2). The results suggested that despite resale remaining popular with Generation Z, it is unlikely to become the preferred fashion sector in the future.

FIG 27. Infographic (2021) Own model

CONCLUSION 37

Summary of the Findings

The research carried out suggests that the secondhand fashion sector is exponentially growing in scale and in popularity. The study outlines the reasons for this growth, focussing primarily on consumer shifts and behaviour. The study has identified that consumers nowadays are motivated to purchase secondhand, not only for financial reasons, but also for social and environmental reasons and for self-fulfilment and a reinforcement of their identity and place in society. Furthermore, the research explores the resale sector specifically, a sector which is fuelling the growth of the entire secondhand fashion industry, taking over charity and thrift stores. The study looks into the practices of sellers on resale sites, in order to gain insight into why the secondhand fashion sector is not as sustainable, ethical and transparent as initially perceived to be by its consumers. The primary research has extended the scope of the study and reinforced that there is a high demand for resale sites such as Depop and eBay, however the research identifies that many sellers are either unsure or not entirely transparent about the product they are selling through these sites. Additionally, consumer research supports the fact that although buyers of secondhand are financially and environmentally motivated to purchase secondhand apparel, more than half of those consumers question the transparency of the resale sector. Based on the evidence that the entire secondhand sector has a very real future, with growth specifically in the resale market, the need arises for a reliable, ethical and transparent fashion sector. FIG 28. The Best Second-hand Shops Around the Globe (2019) Stochl [online]

Proposed Outcome

Based on findings from the research a strong business strategy should be implemented to address the issues around how the resale market can operate in an ethical and transparent way, and help consumers, sellers and platforms of the resale market to adopt good and robust practices within the sector. One proposed method for ensuring that the secondhand sector has a prosperous and honest future would be the provision of a single platform through which other fashion resale platforms could sell product within a more regulated framework. The platform would provide a handbook of guidelines and advice to sellers. This would include guidelines on product pricing to ensure sellers are maintaining an appropriate pricing strategy to avoid gentrification, tips on ensuring authenticity of product to reduce the circulation of counterfeit products. There would be a ‘how to’ on sourcing product while maintaining good practice, and advice on marketing to Generation Z. The platform would also include a live helpdesk service, where consumers and sellers can ask for advice on selling and purchasing secondhand product. The platform would be accessible for all age ranges, however it would be target marketed to Generation Z in that it would have a very visible social media presence and the platform would be accessible via a website and an app. To adapt to everchanging trends, the platform would also offer up-to-date trend and style advice, highlighting the most popular products and offering suggestions on how to style them. The platform would act as both a ‘Peer to Peer’ marketplace and a managed marketplace as it would be stringently regulated, however sellers and customers would be able to contact one another to trade product. To market the platform and encourage other brands to use it, the platform would be showcased at pop-up events, such as conventions and vintage fairs.

ILLUSTRATIONS FIG 1: Startup Xplore, 2021. Depop Profile on Startup Xplore [online]. Google: startupxplore.com. Available at: https://startupxplore.com/en/startups/depop [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 2: Redding, T., 2019. WTF is a circular economy, and can it stop fashion trashing the planet? [online]. Google: dazeddigital.com. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/44580/1/wtf-isa-circular-economy-fashion-recycling-sustainability-copenhagen [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 3: Reiseuhu, 2020. Flea Market in Leipzig, Germany [online]. Google: unsplash.com. Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/Qf9JuyTYl8E [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 4: Pinterest, 2021. Best Portable Briefcase Record Players for the Money [online]. Google: pinterest. co.uk. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/myaudio/best-vintage-turntables-6-retro-lookrecord-player/ [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 5: Onojeghuo, C., 2021. Vintage Neon Sign [online]. Google: negativespace.co. Available at: https:// negativespace.co/vintage-neon-sign/ [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 6: Chambers, J., 2020. Vintage Clothing Shop Rock Retro [online]. Google: https://www.visitlincoln. com/blog/vintage-clothing-shop-rock-retro-expands [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 7: Fehr, I. 2020. Flipping a profit: Berlin’s Depop Generation [online]. Google: exberliner.com. Available at: https://www.exberliner.com/features/culture/depop-generation/ [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 8: LDNFASHION, 2021. 10 of London’s Best Car Boot Sales [online]. Google: ldnfashion.com. Available at: https://www.ldnfashion.com/features/london-best-car-boot-sales/ [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 9: Victorian Era, n.d. Victorian Era Society and Social Class Structure [online]. Google: Victorian-era. org. Available at: http://victorian-era.org/victorian-era-society.html [Accessed 17/03/2021] FIG 10: Polhemus, T., 1990s. Rocker at the Ace Café reunion Croydon, London [digital image]. Google: Huckmag.com, Available at: https://www.huckmag.com/art-and-culture/photography-2/subculturearchive-working-preserve-british-youth-culture-history/ [Accessed 05/03/2021] FIG 11: Polhemus,t T., 1983. Punks hanging out on the Kings Road, London [digital image]. Google: Huckmag.com, Available at: https://www.huckmag.com/art-and-culture/photography-2/subculturearchive-working-preserve-british-youth-culture-history/ [Accessed 05/03/2021] FIG 12: Sound Trout, 2021. Secondhand clothing [Mobile App]. From: Instagram (183.0) [Accessed 18/04/2021] FIG 13: Own model, 2021. Consumer decision-making process. Developed from: Kotler, P., 2015.

Marketing Management [eBook] 15th ed. London: Pearson Education. Available via: vlebooks. P. 194 [Accessed 17/03/2021]

FIG 14: Own model, 2021. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. Developed from: McLeod, S., 2020. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs [online]. Google simplypsychology.org. Available at: https://www.simplypsychology.

org/maslow.html#gsc.tab=0 [Accessed 26/03/2021]

FIG 15: Ty Koh, 2019. Vintage Store in Paris, France [online]. Google: unsplash.com. Available at: https:// unsplash.com/photos/Ci9FNGcXIxE [Accessed 14/03/2021] FIG 16: PNG Design, 2018. Vintage Burberry Viana do Castelo [online]. Google: unsplash.com. Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/CSWcbb_FriU [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 17: L. L. M. Turunen et al. (2018), Vintage Luxury Fashion: Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade [eBook] 1st ed. Springer. Available via: SpingerLink. (p.19) [Accessed 02/03/2021] FIG 18: Norvill, Y., 2020. Is Depop being gentrified? Sellers and users weigh in on the debate[online]. Google: dazeddigital.com. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/50108/1/depopgentrification-rare-vintage-expensive-prices-secondhand-sustainability [Accessed 23/03/2021] FIG 19: Buxton, A., 2020. The big debate: Is secondhand clothing vegan-exempt? [online]. Google: theveganreview.com. Available at: https://theveganreview.com/the-big-debate-is-secondhandclothing-vegan-exempt/ [Accessed 19/04/2021]

FIG 20: Own model, 2021. Perceptual Map. Developed from: ThredUp, 2020. 2020 Resale Report [online]. Available via: ThredUp [Accessed 17/02/2021] FIG 21: Vintage Planet Ltd, 2019. Wholesale Vintage UK [online]. Google: vintageplanetlondon.com. Available at: https://www.vintageplanetlondon.com/wholesalevintageuk [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 22: eBay, 2021. Vintage Nike Spellout Sweatshirt [online]. Google: ebay.co.uk. Available at: https:// www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Nike-Spellout-Sweatshirt-L-/303598294123 [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 23: Vintique, 2021. Vintage Nike Spellout Sweatshirt in Cream [online]. Google: vintiqueclothing. co.uk. Available at: https://www.vintiqueclothing.co.uk/products/vintage-nike-spellout-sweatshirt-incream [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 24: Fas In Frank Vintage, 2021. Wholesale Vintage Clothing [online]. Google: fasinfrankvintage.com. Available at: https://www.fasinfrankvintage.com/pages/wholesale [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 25: Sound Trout, 2021. The North Face Puffer Giveaway [Mobile App]. From: Instagram (183.0) [Accessed 19/04/2021] FIG 26: Own model, 2021. The Resale Sites/Brands Consumers Use [Bar Graph] (see Appendix. 2) FIG 27: Own model, 2021. [Infographic] (see Appendix. 2) FIG 28: Stochl, E., 2019. The Best Second-hand Shops Around the Globe [online]. Google: remake.world. Available at: https://remake.world/stories/style/the-best-second-hand-shops-around-the-globe/ [Accessed 19/04/2021]

REFERENCES BLOGS Ferriera, C., 2021. The Dropshipper’s Guide To Sourcing From AliExperss. Shopify [online blog], 3 January. Available at: https://www.shopify.co.uk/blog/117607173-the-definitive-guide-todropshipping-with-aliexpress [Accessed 22/03/2021] Isakov, F., 2020. 15 Fashion Industry Statistics for Staying on Trend in 2020. Modern Gentlemen [online blog], 25 December. Available at: https://moderngentlemen.net/fashion-industry-statistics/ [Accessed 09/04/2021]

BOOKS Denscombe, M., 2014. The Good Research Guide: for small-scale social research projects [eBook] 6th ed. Maidenhead: O. U. P. Available via: vlebooks. p. 306 [Accessed 30/03/2021] Kotler, P., 2015. Marketing Management [eBook] 15th ed. London: Pearson Education. Available via: vlebooks. P. 194 [Accessed 17/03/2021] McRobbie, A., 1989. Second-hand Dress and the role of the Ragmarket [eBook] 1st ed. London: Palgrave MacMillan. Available via: SpringerLink p.24,26 [Accessed 05/03/2021] Palmer, A., (2005) Old Clothes New Looks: Secondhand Fashion [eBook]. 1st ed. Oxford: Berg, Available via: Bloomsbury Fashion Central, p. 29-48 [Accessed 24/02/2021] Riello, G. and Rublack, U. (eds), 2019. The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800. [eBook] Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. [Accessed 03/02/2021] Saldana, J., 2015. The Coding Manual for Qualitative Researchers [eBook] 3rd ed. London: Sage Publications. Available via: sagepub.com. p 1-31. [Accessed 07/04/2021] Saunders, M., et al. 2015. Research Methods for Business Students [eBook] 7th ed. London: Pearson Education. Available via: vlebooks p. 166, 391. [Accessed 30/03/2021] Turunen, L.L.M., et al., 2018. Vintage Luxury Fashion: Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade [eBook] 1st ed. London: Palgrave Macmillan. Available via: SpingerLink. (p.19, p.21) [Accessed 02/03/2021] Veblen, T., 1899. The Theory of the Leisure Class, 4th ed. London: Unwin Books (p.64, p.120)

BUSINESS REPORTS EBay, 2021. Recommerce Report [online]. Available via: static.ebayinc.com [Accessed 01/04/2021] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2015. Growth Within: A circular economy vision for a competitive Europe. Available via: ellenmacarthurfoundation.org [Accessed 09/04/2021] Future Market Insights, 2020. Secondhand Apparel Market [online]. Available via: Future Market Insights [Accessed 17/02/2021] McKinsey, 2020. Survey: Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion [online]. Available via: McKinsey & Company [Accessed 09/04/2021] McKinsey, 2020. Is luxury resale the future of fashion [online]. Available via: McKinsey & Company [Accessed 15/03/2021]

ThredUp, 2020. 2020 Resale Report [online]. Available via: ThredUp [Accessed 17/02/2021]

CONFERENCE PROCEEDING Silva, C., et al. 2020. U.S. Generation Z Consumers’ Motivations and Purchase Behavior Towards

Secondhand Clothing. International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings.

77(1). Iowa: Iowa State University Digital Press iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/article/id/11725/

p.1-3

[online].

Available

via:

https://www.

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NEWSPAPER ARTICLE Moshakis, A., 2019. Maria Raga: The CEO behind Gen Z’s favourite shopping app. The Guardian [online], September 2015. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ global/2019/sep/15/maria-raga-the-ceo-behind-gen-zs-favourite-shopping-app[Accessed 28/03/2021]

UNIVERSITY THESES Brummer, A., 2020. Motivations for consumption of second-hand fashion, A Quantative Study of Motivational Drives od Finnish Communities [online] B.A. thesis, Aalto University. Available at:

https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/44097/bachelor_Brummer_Ahti_2020. pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y [Accessed 24/03/2021]

Rex, H., 2020. Is Depop Gentrifying Secondhand Shopping? [online]. Google: refinery29.com. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/depop-secondhand-gentrification [Accessed 22/03/2021]

WEBSITES Schneier, M., 2019. Got It On Depop The app that has Gen Z hooked on thrifting [online]. Google: thecut.com. Availale at: https://www.thecut.com/2019/08/depop-app-gen-z.html#_ ga=2.78466972.96653372.1567691647-56436060.1567691647 [Accessed 28/03/2021] Sweet, J., 2019. Why Gen Z loves the resale shopping market? [online]. Google: genzinsights.com. Available at: https://www.genzinsights.com/why-gen-z-loves-the-resale-shopping-market [Accessed 24/03/2021] Turk, R., 2019. Resale market is not a threat to luxury new fashion, according to new study [online]. Google: fashionunited.uk. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/resale-market-is-nota-threat-to-luxury-fashion-according-to-new-study/2019101545770 [Accessed 22/03/2021] You Magazine, 2019. 7 of the best fashion resale sites to shop at this Second Hand September [online]. Google: you.co.uk. Available at: https://www.you.co.uk/best-fashion-resale-sites/ [Accessed 28/03/2021]

BIBLIOGRAPHY BLOGS Bramann, J., 2020. Is Fashion Resale Sustainable? Menswear Market [online blog], 12 January. Available at: https://menswear-market.com/blog/sustainable-fashion-resale/ [Accessed 15/03/2021] Ferriera, C., 2021. The Dropshipper’s Guide To Sourcing From AliExperss. Shopify [online blog], 3 January. Available at: https://www.shopify.co.uk/blog/117607173-the-definitive-guide-todropshipping-with-aliexpress [Accessed 22/03/2021] Isakov, F., 2020. 15 Fashion Industry Statistics for Staying on Trend in 2020. Modern Gentlemen [online blog], 25 December. Available at: https://moderngentlemen.net/fashion-industry-statistics/ [Accessed 09/04/2021] Kousnetsova, A., (2020), The Boom of the Resale Market: Can Your Brand Capitalize?, linkinfluence [online blog], 30 October, Available at: https://www.linkfluence.com/blog/boom-resale-market [Accessed 24/02/2021] Sharma, N., 2019. How Does eBay Work – Business Model, Strategies, Key-Facts, Funding and Success Secrets. Brand Stories [online blog], 13 November. Available at: https://www.apptunix.com/blog/howdoes-ebay-work/ [Accessed 28/03/2021]4

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BUSINESS REPORTS BDO. 2020. Charity retail forecasts report 2020 Harnessing Change, Making charity shops the destination of choice [online] Available via: BDO [Accessed 22/03/2021] EBay, 2021. Recommerce Report [online]. Available via: static.ebayinc.com [Accessed 01/04/2021] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2015. Growth Within: A circular economy vision for a competitive Europe. Available via: ellenmacarthurfoundation.org [Accessed 09/04/2021] Future Market Insights, 2020. Secondhand Apparel Market [online]. Available via: Future Market Insights [Accessed 17/02/2021] McKinsey, 2021. The State of Fashion 2021 [online]. Available via: McKinsey & Company [Accessed 24/02/2021] McKinsey, 2020. Survey: Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion [online]. Available via: McKinsey & Company [Accessed 09/04/2021] McKinsey, 2020. Is luxury resale the future of fashion [online]. Available via: McKinsey & Company [Accessed 15/03/2021] The Real Real., 2020., Resale Report 2020 [online]. Available via: static1.squarespace.com [Accessed 24/02/2021] ThredUp, 2020. 2020 Resale Report [online]. Available via: ThredUp [Accessed 17/02/2021]

CONFERENCE PROCEEDING Silva, C., et al. 2020. U.S. Generation Z Consumers’ Motivations and Purchase Behavior Towards

Secondhand Clothing. International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings.

77(1). Iowa: Iowa State University Digital Press iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/article/id/11725/

p.1-3

[online].

Available

via:

https://www.

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at:

https://www.

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APPENDIX. 1: Interview with Depop seller

APPENDIX. 2: Instagram survey Screenshots from Instagram survey Survey conducted on 02/04/2021 Sample: 100 respondents, aged 18-24 years

#RETRO

SECONDHAND

PREOWNED

CIRCULAR ECONOMY

RESALE #VINTAGE