REPORT ON SKIRTS. PEARL ACADEMY, MUMBAI. FASHION DESIGNING. NIDHI JOSHI MADHUR BADWANI HARSH CHAUHAN HITAYSHI SHAH KHYATI SARAF COHORT: 2014-2018 DATE: 26.9.2014 DURATION- 9:00 AM, 24.9.14 – 4:00 PM, 26.9.14
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT.
We are using this opportunity to express our gratitude to the academy for providing us this platform and everyone else who supported us throughout the Report Writing. We are thankful for their aspiring guidance, invaluably constructive criticism and friendly advice during the report work. We are sincerely grateful to them for sharing their truthful and illuminating views on a number of issues related to the project. Also stating that the content is original, and duly acknowledging the sources. We express our warm thanks to Mr. KUNTAL DE and Ms. SHWETA MINOCHA for their support and guidance at PEARL ACADEMY. We would also like to thank our Course Leader and all the people who provided us with the facilities that were required and conducive conditions for our report.
Thank you.
MADHUR HITAYSHI HARSH KHYATI NIDHI
INDEX SERIAL NO. 01. 02. 03. 04. 05. 06. 07.
TITLE TITLE OF THE REPORT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT INDEX INTRODUCTION (SKIRTS) GUJARATI SKIRTS/LEHENGA RAJASTHANI LEHENGAS MEN’S SKIRTS (AND VARIATION IN FABRICS.)
PAGE NO. 01 02 03 04 05-
according to http://www.indobase.com Indian Lehanga choli has traveled a long way from Mughal royal courts to Wedding Pandals. It is interesting to know about lehanga history, which says that it is attired by women since Mughal era. It has acquired the status of festivity wardrobe. Consisting of beautiful pleated skirt called Lehanga and tight fitting blouse called Choli along with the graceful odhni or Dupatta, lehanga tradition is driving women crazy not just in India but worldwide. Whenever we talk about Dandiya, the first thing that comes to our mind is Chaniya Choli available in exotic colors and
ORIGIN OF INDIAN SKIRTS (LEHENGAS)
ornamented designs. It was very popular among royal ladies of the Mughal times. At that time it was considered as a dress that had the ability to bedeck Indian beauty in the most modest manner. Dupatta was actually meant to cover heads while offering prayers to God and as a sign of respect before elders. Even today, the essence of Mughal culture is very much intact and is depicted in traditional Mughal designs. This tribal outfit is so much in vogue that it has virtually replaced our traditional Sari in wedding pandals or Mandap.
marathi chaniyas in olden times available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli#mediaviewe r/File:Marathi_dancing_girls.jpg
Today, most of the brides chose to wear a designer Bridal Lehanga in colors of pink, red and maroon on their special day. This garment has undergone some transformation in terms of styles. The gamut of Lehanga Choli is very wide and ranges from Traditional cum Embroided Lehanga to Sharara,
Garara and Lancha to specially designed Indian
Feminine and graceful, the long skirt is decorated
wedding Lehanga. Though we have witnessed
with embroidery and mirror work. The short, fitted
innumerable changes in its styling and designing but
choli is also in festive colors and has gorgeous
one thing is for sure that the fashion of Lehanga choli
embroidery.Wearing of custom lehengas at occasions
tradition will never fade.
is the latest fashion / trend.
TYPES OF FABRIC: According to the information available from fabrics are generally used to give the dress a cool and light weight feel. Fabrics like silk, khadi, brocade and chiffon are also used.
http://www.ghagra.org.in -Many types of fabrics are used in choli lehanga preparation. Some of the commonly used fabrics are crepe, georgette, net, satin and silk.
MODERN AND BOLLYWODD LEHENGA. A lehenga with choli and dupatta is also known as lehenga set.There are many lehenga sets, which are in fashion trend. The Indian fashion industry has its roots related to Bollywood. Bollywood lehengas always set the trend of fashion in India. The Bollywood lehenga choli fashion is not hide. Actresses wear fashion lehngas latest fashion lehengas, which are designed by top famous designers. The chaniya choli fashion, wedding lehenga fashion also came from Bollywood. Embroidered lehenga is the traditional wear of Indian women since ancient time. Popular both among wanderers, tribals as well as royal people of olden days, embroidered lehengas come in many different styles.
CREPE FABRIC
Crepe, a thin fabric widely
used in Indian choli, woven originally in silk but now available in all major fibers. There are two kinds of crepe. The hard - finished, typically dyed black and used for mourning (which tends to retain the old spelling crape), is made of hand - twisted silk yarn and finished by a rather complex trade process after weaving; the soft crepe include the Canton, or Oriental, weaves in plain or damask weaves. Their crisped or wavy appearance results from the peculiar arrangement of the weft, which is formed of yarn from two different bobbins twisted together in opposite directions or uses alternately a right - twisted and a left - twisted thread. Crepe fabric is used in
almost all garments like Indian ghagra choli, bridal
summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high
leenghas, sarees, fashion lehenga and salwar kameez.
absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk
GEORGETTE FABRICGeorgette is a thin
retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and
woven silk fabric often of crepe yarn and
shimmers with a luster all its own. It is the most
construction. Georgette choli lehangas are famous in
common traditional women clothing being exported
Bollywood. It is - a sheer silk or rayon crepe of dull
by women.
texture. A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a
Design and colour:There are ghagra choli of vivid
crepe surface. End - uses include dresses and blouses.
colour contrasts with traditional as well as modern
NET FABRIC Net fabric is an open fabric,
patterns. It is the embroidery and the shape that
which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a mesh - like appearance that won't ravel. End - uses include veils, curtains, and fish nets this fabric is widely used in fancy lehenga.
SATIN FABRICSatin is a traditional fabric
makes all the difference to the ghagra choli and one can identify it with the occasion it is meant for. Indian market has a wide collection of ghagra/lehenga cholis such as Designer lehengas
Traditional ghagra cholis
utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for
Embroidered lehengas
evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe - back
Hand worked lehengas
satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin and antique satin.
SILK FABRICSilk is a luxurious and sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. During
Indian bridal lehengas
Even the lehengas are of different shapes such as Straight cut lehengas
the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in gold. Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and
Fish tail lehengas
silk garments are prized for their versatility, wear ability and comfort. Silk is the strongest natural fiber. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the
Mermaid lehengas
•
Paneled lehngas Interesting facts and comparisons
•
Kali ghagras lenghas
•
Circular lehengas
•
A-line lehngas
A wide daily wear garment, Chaniya Choli can also be used for special occasions. In fact, it is regularly featured in Indian weddings and during festivals like Diwali. Even today, a lot of local producers and designers use
•
Lehengas with full flair
natural colours to dye the outfit in hues like red, blue, yellow and green.
The Indian Lehenga choli brings out the essence of feminism. Similar to the western skirt and blouse, the
Mirror Work is most common in daily wear Chaniya Choli.
ghagra choli's intricate designs create excitement amongst the fashion conscious women. Wearing of lehenga is a fashion with lasting values and rich craftsmanship. It is so much in fashion that it is one of the most favoured dress at beauty pageant contests at national as well as international level.
VARITIES-
Women’s skirts come in lots of shapes, styles and sizes. In today’s fiercely competitive market , every niche of the market is covered with size no to plus sizes. A Skirt is a type of garment that covers your
According to the information available on the website
lower half body. It hangs from the waist and can be of
www.nrigujarati.co.in .Chaniya Choli comes in
any length of your legs. Skirts can be made out of a
different kinds of variety, including Ghagra, which
single piece of material. But most of the skirts are
has full length skirt, along with blouses and skirts
introduced with dart, gores, pleats or panels to create
featuring Zari, Resham work, Zardozi, sequins and
a different look. The selection can vary upon the
mirror work with precious stones. Designer versions
social context, fashion and cultural conception of
of Chaniya Choli include different cuts in the skirt,
modesty. Designs of skirts differs on styles, types and
including styles like straight or fish cut, mermaid cut,
shapes. Some skirts are short or long. Some of them
full flair Chaniya, panelled cut or circular and A-
are narrow and wide, others are full. There are so
shape cuts.
many options to select that, you may think of wearing a pant instead! But knowing the different types of
skirts and the one that looks good on you can
them. Let’s get to know about different types of skirts
Mini skirts are shorter than knee length. They are just right to reveal a pair of beautiful legs. This one is inappropriate for the workplace or highly formal meeting. So ensure that you have selected it for the right event.
to select the right one for you
Micro Mini Skirt
complete your wardrobe by having a nice collection of
This one is a shorter version of mini skirt. You can go as far as you want without the skirt qualifying as a belt.
A-line Skirt
Bustle Skirt
This skirt fits at the waist. Slightly touching hips and
It has ruffles in the back being flat across the stomach. The design is popular again as being part of a Neovictorian fashion.
thighs, broader at the hem, narrow at the top and a bit wider at the bottom makes it look like the letter “A”.
Maxi Skirt These skirts are long, having a length from waist to ankle. They may not show any leg, but still can be very fashionable. This one is especially good for fall and cool winter days. Many people believe them as the most comfortable variety. Make sure that it is not too long for you to walk in.
Pleated Skirt Pleats are folds of fabric sewn from the top of the skirt. It hangs from the waist to different lengths showing the pleat’s over. It looks nice on all figures.
Circle Skirt Mermaid Skirt The design is similar to a mermaid’s tail by fitting from waist to knees. It flares out from the knees to the floor.
Gypsy or Tiered Skirt This one is a preferred casual skirt. There are different lengths on this category such as, full, knee length, mini etc. These skirts creates an attractive look by adding shape by tiers.
Pencil Skirt This skirt hugs your body. Its lengthens from the waist to beneath the knees or down to mid-calf. They come in stretch materials. This one is preferred for slim and skinny figures.
Mini Skirt
This skirt is made in a circular shape that has a flare at the hem. They are very fitting at the dress hips. They are usually made of lightweight fabric.
Wrap Skirt These skirts can wrap around the waist and the leg part. Sometimes they have a light flare design. It can be fastened by a button or tie. It is a perfect selection of casual wear. They are usually made of cotton.
Poodle Skirt These are a type of long skirts, making the skirt fabric poodle on the floor when you stand still
Sarong It is a type of fabric that has to wrap around your body to make a skirt. It is widely used in tropical climates to be worn as a skirt or as a cover-up over a bathing suit.
Bubble Skirt It creates a bubble effect at the bottom of its hem being tucked back under. It has been popular since 1950s.
Jeans skirt These are found in a large variety of styles. Jeans skirts are made from jeans and denim. They are usually casual. Some of them are designed with rhinestones or embroidery. Pockets are also a trendy addition.
Combo Skirts A combination of different fabrics creates a combo skirt. It is mainly focused when the skirt is repurposed or up-cycled. The parts can be any fabric such as jeans, ruffles etc.
Tutu It was a specialized skirt, originally used in ballet. This skirt is made of tulle. Recently it has been popular as goth and fetish wear.
Flared Skirt The design of flare skirts are derived from A-line skirts. The only difference is, these skirts are wider at the bottom. The extra flare covers the fat over hips and thighs. They are also named as four gores, six gores, seven or eight gores.
High Waisted Skirt The skirt that fits on higher than the waistline are called high waisted skirts. They can be a little or a lot higher than the waistline.
Trouser Skirt Trouser skirts basically shares a pair of trousers either fitted or flared. Fly fronts and belt loops are the common among trouser skirt.
Broomstick Skirt The skirt has a length to ankle with many vertical wrinkles. The wrinkles are made by twisting the garment when it is wet. It is a nice selected for casual wear.
Asymmetrical Skirt Asymmetrical skirts is designed in a way that the fabric will have different lengths on the hems. It is a perfect selection for an evening out.
Grommeted Skirts or Skirts with Gussets These skirts are great for dancing as they are made of vertical panels from waist to hemline.
Gathered skirt Gathered skirts are gathered at the waist. It is the simplest of all skirts. It can also be cut from the hip side and set into a yoke.
INDIAN SKIRT TYPES 1.
Lehenga/Ghagra Choli
The most famous traditional dress of India is lehenga choli or ghagra choli. The Indian lehenga cholis with their glittering mirror work very attractive. The lehenga choli or ghagra choli is extremely colourful and attractive. The Indian lehenga choli/ghagra choli is usually worn with the 'dupatta' to cover the head and the chest. In India, lehenga choli is also known as lehenga or ghagra chunni or chunri, ghagra chunari, ghagra chunaris and sometimes Lachcha choli. Wearing of this traditional dress at formal occasions is the latest trend. There is a tremendous boost to the ghagra choli in recent time as a fashion gaments. Lehenga is a typical feminine silhouette that epitomizes style, craftsmanship, quality and class of
Indian clothing.
craftsmen after which they are stitched into garments. Three parts of Chaniya Cholis.
Fabric in Indian Lehenga
•
Silk
•
Georgette
In Maharashtra brides wear a Paithani sari, terrific Lehnga and shawl with its gold brocade border woven
•
Crepe
•
Net
patterns. Other woven saris from this region, such as
•
Satin
Chanderis, Indoris, and Maheshwaris also form part
•
Brocade
of the trousseau with yellows, orange and greens being
•
Chiffon
intricately with birds, flowers and geometrical
the dominant colors. The ensemble of the Muslim bride from Hydria is the
2.
Chaniya Choli
Chaniya choli is another form or say another name of ghagra choli. The home of the chaniya choli is no
zari-encrusted blouse with a lehenga. The veil (dupatta) is edged with gold tassels and embroidered all over. Tissues and brocades are used in abundance.
doubt Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan. The outfit is
Wearing of bridal ghagra choli is a fashion with
popular in the west and north of India. In the south,
lasting values and rich craftsmanship.
another more streamlined version known as the 'pavade' is popular. There is a tremendous boost to the chaniya choli in recent time as a fashion garment
Party Wear Ghagra choli: Ghagra choli or Lehenga
expecially in weddings. Fabric in Chaniya Choli
choli is the most preferred party wear of young
Fabrics that are used for chaniya cholis normally
people. Most of the important guests in weddings will
range from cotton, silk to khadi and at times chiffon,
be in a ghagra choli. The ghagra choli is worn to mark
organza, satin cotton, raw silk and brocade. But the
important occasions and festivals. The Indian ghagra
last variety is only for weddings and formal occasions.
choli can be worn at main occasions like mehendi,
The creation of a chaniya choli takes a couple of
dandiya / sangeet, the wedding ceremony and the
weeks to create as the fabrics are embroidered in
reception. Outfits for women such as the 'Indian
Gujarat, Kutch and Rajasthan and sent to different
Ghagra or Lehenga - choli' brings out the essence of
feminism.Embroidered Indian ghagra choli is quite
attire mostly in North India and is also the traditional
famous round the globe. It is one of the oldest form of
wear of Garba festival in Gujarat.
Indian clothing. The young generation has evolved the traditional choli to strap less blouse, spaghetti top and tube top.
Traditional Ghagra choli:The traditional dress for women in Rajasthan and Gujarat is the lehenga choli
EMBROIDERY USED IN CHANIYA
or ghagra choli but can be seen all over the country. These cholis are brightly embroidered, waist- length
CHANIYA (CHOLI) [Gujarat]:
bare - backed blouses. Indian ghagra cholis, lehengas According to the tourism corporation of Gujarat are gathered ankle - length skirts secured around the limited -there are 18 types of hand embroidery bring waist. The attire is completed by a veil - cloth called culture and identity to the colorful silken thread odhni or dupatta draped across the neck or over the which kutchi women use to decorate fabrics and head. The Indian lehenga choli is one of the most traditional dress. Villages: Dhordo, Kuran, Vayor, colorful Indian clothing, adding verve and color to the Guneri, Dholavira, and Sumrasar. surrounding landscapes. Tribal women in these area bedeck themselves from head to toe with chunky silver jeweler The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel worn during festivals, weddings or special events in India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact that it is available in a number of fabrics with many different decorative choices.[10] Traditionally the sari and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments for the bride in India.[11] But it is a common bridal
JAT EMBROIDERY-
available at:;http://www.equalcraft.com/shop/B004BW71ZA/Ta ble-Runner-with-Hand-Stitched-Jat-Embroidery-and-
SODHA RAJPUT –
Beadwork-Red Extremly
labour
intensive,
the
power
of
jat
embroidery comes from the closely stitched patterns that cover the entire cloth. Jats are very conscious of their identity as a group and take a pride in the fact that their ‘stiches outlive the cloth on which they are sewn’.
MUTWA EMBROIDERY-
available at:http://harekrsnascreations.blogspot.in When the sodhas migrated from Sindh between 200-500 years ago, they brought with them a whole they came in contact with. The predominant style of embroidery is referred to as pakko embroidery but sodha rajputs also
available
at:
utilize stitches such as neran, kharek,.
http://threadsthroughindia.wordpress.com/page/2/ In Muslim communities within the Banni region of kutch,
where
embroidery
is
women
observe
purdah,
most
common.
This
Mutwa craft
is
The evolution of Rajasthani Skirts
distinguished by its highly intricate work with tiny mirrors; a very fastidious and labour intensive. number of years and for instance before all around the According to the information given on the website
India. It you can use to ensure they are the royal attire
costumerguide.com the origin having to do with a
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Origin and history
with the people Then there are also patch works, kalamkari, ikat have the desired effect and a great many other hand embroidered
Author TOM TIERNER history of Ghagra goes
chaniya cholis worn by going to be the young
back to the 5th or 6th century A.D. Garments
ladies completely the festivals.Whichever
similar to the Ghagra can be seen in Buddhist
occasion all your family members and you'll
sculptures and paintings dating from the Kushana
have opt to learn more about wear it; a
or early Gupta period – the archetype of the
clothier lehenga choli has definitely made its
modern Ghagra.
mark do not choices upon India but also
The origin of the Ghagra can be traced back to the
throughout the going to be the international
courts in the Mughal era, showcasing Indian
platform. With a lot more and a good deal
culture and arts. The length of the Ghagra which
more designers trying their hand all around
earlier skimmed the floor has been shortened to
the this garment,they need to purchase
grace the ankles. A favourite for all kinds of formal
element online has also become you can
and religious occasions, the Ghagra’s Choli or
possibly imagine regarding late. Many
blouse has detailed patch work. This in turn is
websites bring going to be the mystic and
designed with beads, fancy stitches, shells, and
charm relating to this decide what to wear all
sequins, the motifs commonly used are of birds,
the way to understand more about going to be
animals
the comforts having to do with your a
and flowers. Handmade Ghagras are classic.
replacement providing some one their
Present Day Scenario ITC PILANI (2012) described the graceful and intricate work on the Ghagra is done by hand. The fabric is cut into panels and stitched according to the style, the motifs, embellishment. Materials like
available at
georgette, net and crepe are popular today. It takes
www.pinterest.com/fionascreations/mirrorwor
least 20 days to get a Ghagra stitched
k.htm
The term ‘Rajasthani Ghagra’ evokes images of bright swirling colours in the desert radiant with mirrors, with the background of decorated camels, the valour and hospitality of Rajputs, and the art and crafts of Rajasthan. The Rajasthani Ghagra is a kind of pleated skirt that is long and embroidered and worn as the lower portion of a Ghagra kanchli or Choli (blouse). It is tied around the waist and held by a drawstring. The Ghagra evolved from Bhainivasani, which has
its
roots in the Antariya. This traditional clothing of Ghagra and Choli is worn by women in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar, Harayana, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand. The fabrics used
Available at www.images.google.com/rajasthanilehengas.c om/modern/jabongg
for a Ghagra are cotton, silk, khadi, georgette, crepe, net, satin, brocade and chiffon. Silk and cotton are the favoured materials.
Variations The ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the
same length as original antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns in India. In Andhra Pradesh it is called as Langa and part of the dress Langa Voni.
Until early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes showed martial status of women as both married and unmarried women observed Ghoonghat. Gagras were made out of two to three
available at
layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large
www.wikipedia.com/variationslehenga.colours
flared look and remained largely undecorated but
/drapesrajasthan
were decorated with gota strips along the border on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were Indigo, Lac and Haldi. This style can still be seen in rural areas of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk festivals.
Significane of colours used in rajasthani skirts RADHIKAS BLOG (2010) proposed that Kesar colour in Rajasthan has several connotations. It is
Ancient unstitched form of gagra has survived in saffron, the most delectable of spices…It is the folk theater costumes across India, particularly in colour of fragrant, sublime sandalwood…Kesar Kathakali of Kerala, where layers of pleated khadi reflects the golden sand dunes of the region…It fabric are laid over a nada and tied around the symbolizes the aspiration of the people for waist creating layers of flared skirt. This reflects auspiciousness, plenty and prosperity…It is one of simplistic early style of unstitched gagras worn in the most favourite colours of choice, singly or in ancient times. combination with hot pink and bright red, for women’s veils and men’s turbans… Above all, Kesar is the colour of the native Rajasthani’s love and longing for her/his lover… embodied as the
Kesariya…
Maaree aangaliya ri rekh” , Kesariya…”
According to the information available from the ANAM (2011) proposed that one of the most website www.utsavfashion.in arid desert region of significant factors which ascertain the variations in vast distances, men of all communities – other than attire of women in Rajasthan is her marital status. agriculturists – have traditionally, for thousands of Extremely rich fabrics, heavy ornaments and bright years, been compelled to migrate far from home in colors which are linked to marriage and fertility search of livelihood or fortune… whether as reflect her status. Speaking of sharp contrast, the merchants, warriors, herdsmen or artisans. Given dull, white and light colors which are devoid of the tradition of early betrothal and marriage, the embellishments reflect the widow status of any experience of loneliness and separation came early women. There are number of variations in color, cut in the lives of men and women here (Rajasthan’s and style along with embellishments which very notorious institution of child marriage, and the transparently reflect the assorted communities in resulting maternal and infant death statistics, Rajasthan. continue to reflect some of the negative outcomes of The attires of females in Rajasthan indicate their this social practice). social status too. Like the Rajput females that belong to the affluent social order mainly follow the parda system. Here the women was restricted in her movement and was not allowed to show off much. Their attires were kept in private women quarter where they were decorated elaborately without any available at www.wordpress.com/tag/significanecoloursrajasthan.htm
limitation. The female ghagras were very short displaying the exquisite leg ornaments, and they are even now displayed in the paintings. But now as the parda system is becoming out dated, the rajasthani
“Kesariya baalam, aawo ni, Padhaaro maaro des…
women’s clothes are seeing a lot of transformation. The length of the ghagras has been increased to
Sraavan aavan kaha gayo,
hide the legs and feet. Now days the Rajput ghagra
Kar gayo kol anek,
trails all over the ground making the women appear
Ginta ginta ghis gayee,
more beautiful and lavish. There are some women
that work in field. They wear ghagras which reach
From the period of Lord Krishna, the gopis
10cm of length, above their ankles. Many times they
have been known to be wearing lehenga
even wear ankle and leg bracelets which are worn
choli or ghagra choli during raaslila.
not only for the adornment but also for protecting
Wearing Lehenga choli is in Indian culture
the women against bites and brambles when they
from
walk down the fields.
increase the beauty of women. Lehenga in
is worn by the Rajasthan females and is long skirts
red color looks really very nice lal ghagra is
that touch the ankle. These have narrow waist while
example of this fact. These are the some
flare at the base. not like the normal skirts, the
significance that in Indian wedding bride
fabric at the end of the skirts is not folded but is a
wear bridal choli lehenga.
wide colored cloth which is called sinjaf that is
ancient.
Indian
ghagra
choli&
Utsav Fashion is the best bridal
sewen with an intention to make it strong. Ghagra’s
choli lehenga shop with more than 5000
width and no. of pleats is meant to be display the
latest designs of lehengas for wedding, indian ghagra choli, ghagra lal red,
wealth of the wearer. Just like the pagari, this
wedding chaniya cholis and is known for
ghagra is available in different colors, prints and
express delivery to any destination in the
styles.
world.
• •
FESTIVAL LEHENGA CHOLI : Festivals and fairs have always been a part of India and will stay so forever to add to India's colour and integrity. Take a look at fairs and festivals of this country in order to become a part of the same.
available at www.images.utsavfashion.bogspotrajasthan
India is a land of festivals and fairs. Every festival has some or the other traditional or religious importance. Every day of the year there is a festival celebrated in some part of the country. Some
Lehengas in general and their religious significance
festivals welcome the seasons of the year, the harvest, the rains, or the full moon. Others celebrate religious occasions, the birtlink birthdays
of divine beings, Saints, and gurus (the revered
Janamashtami The birth of lord
teachers), or the advent of the new year. A number
Krishna, the eighth incarnation on earth of Lord
of these festivals are common to most parts of India,
Vishnu, is celebrated throughout India. Devotees
however, they may be called by different names in
celebrate it by fasting and prayers, which is
the various parts of the country or may be
followed by feasting and merriment. The temples
celebrated in a different fashion. Every festival is
remain open throughout the night and birth of lord
celebrated in a unique style. Indian ethnic lehenga
Krishna is celebrated at midnight. Scenes of lord
garments have special significance in accordance
Krishna's childhood are enacted in Matura and
with colors, fabrics and festivals.
Vrindavan.On the next morning Nand Utsav is
•
Baisakhi is the harvest festival of the
celebrated. people distribute prasad and dance with
Punjab and is celebrated with dances and gaiety.
joy. Women of Matura wear lehengas and dance.
The solar new year's day is observed on this day
Earthern pots filled with butter, favourite of lord
throughout northern India. For Hindus, it is
krishna are tied to several places at certain heights.
significant of the days of the descent of the Ganges
People try to break this pot by forming pyramides.
to the earth, and people take holy dips in rivers.
It is also commonly known as 'DAHI HANDI".
The Sikhs attach religious significance to day, as it is day of the formation of the Singh, who converted the Sikhs into a martial race. On this day in 1699, Guru Gobind Singh organized the Sikhs into the 'Khalsa'. In Punjab, farmers start their harvesting operations on this day with great fanfare. women in traditional lehengas use to dance at this festival in some of the parts of northern India.
•
Id - ul - Fitr or Ramazan Id is a day of feasting and rejoicing as it marks the end of the end
available at www.mapsofindia.com/rajasthan/people
of Ramazan (Ramadan), the Muslim time of fasting. On the day of Id Muslim women and girls wear lehenga cholis or lal gaghra and celebrate this festival.
Available at www.pinterest.com/discovered india
Silk and Cotton, during the golden era of the Mughal dynasty. Fabrics like silk, cotton and brocade were stitched along with intricate embroideries of Kundan, crystal stones and Zardozi. Based on historical facts and figures, Jodha wore ornate jewelry and lehengas along with dupattas that had rich colors and heavy borders. Large neck pieces and earrings, and a large nose ring, also called a ‘bali’ was used to adorn her flawless beauty. She may have married the greatest Mughal ruler, but her roots were deeply embedded in the Rajput culture and style which always showed in her colorful dupattas or her
Innovations and modern take on the age
elaborate lehengas. For the most part Jodha always
old rajasthani lehengas
covered her head with the pallu of her dupatta,
The portrait shown in THE EVOLUTION OF LEHENGA and the costumes worn by Jodha before entering the limelight, traces its roots and emergence way back to the Mughal Period which was truly patronized by the historic legend ‘Jodhabai’. These royal costumes were inspired by
while on the other hand she only went bare headed when she was in her palace room, or basically indoors. Another symbol of her Rajput roots was her way of adorning herself, which was with a red bindi, which also further showcased her sense of tradition.
the Mughal style of clothing which also had innovative slices of the Rajput style of designs and embroideries in it. The fabrics used for the
Influences over the years
costumes were originally manufactured and woven in Rajasthan. The grandness of these costumes was
Recently, the biggest block buster in Bollywood,
given the essence of reality by the artisans who
Jodha-Akbar’, which was directed and produced by
intricately wove exquisite styles of embroidery,
Ashutosh Gowariker saw a resurgence in the
motifs and embellishments on the finest forms of
timeless classic tale. Jodha which was played by
Aishwarya Rai was given the same regal
traditionally woven with the same fabric and
representation as she had been in history books.
textures.
One of India’s most talented fashion designers, Neeta Lulla designed the costumes for both Jodha and Akbar and tastefully designed each outfit, keeping the traditions and historical roots in mind. Heavily embroidered dupattas in light colors of yellow, orange and green, along with flowy lehengas and jewelry that showcased a typical Rajasthani style were all used to portray the queen’s elegance and majestic charm. Such style became a hit with weddings all over India, since every bride wanted to look like Jodha. The regional Rajasthani charm and the vintage style of saris and lehengas came back into fashion and in a huge way!
Innovations Information available from the website www.utsavfashion.in , colored stones which previously studded all royal costumes, especially the Jodha costume, are now innovatively replaced by semi precious stones and shimmering metallic threads of silver and gold. More of block prints and bandhani patterns are weaved into the royal fabrics which have taken fashion onto a different level altogether. Ethnic saris and ghagra cholis are being embroidered with the designs and patterns of the Jodha costume, thus aiming at retaining the originality. Skirts and lehengas are now
Men’s Skirt (lungi)
Significance of lungi…. According to fullstopindia.com….
available at www.en.wikipedia.org/lungi
What is a Lungi?
Types of Lungi
Looking like a cross between a bed sheet and a
A lungi is a casual version of the popular bottom
towel, lungis are a garment worn around the waist.
dress in South India. It’s easily identifiable due to
The fit and style of a well tied lungi is similar to a
the colorful floral or windowpane patterns of
sarong skirt. This casual dress is a part of daily life
fabric. Pronounced “loon” + “gey”, lungis come one
for all classes of Indians, specifically the working
size fits all for adults with a slightly smaller cut for
class who prefer the ease of movement as well as
children. Cotton is the most common fabric used as
natural cooling effect which comes from an open
it breaths well, is abundant within India, and it is a
bottom.
tremendously versatile cloth for dying.
Some states in North India such as Bihar, Orissa
There are two preferred ways of producing a lungi:
and Pashim Banga (West Bengal) also have adapted
open and stitched. An open lungi is simply a piece of
this favored dress. However, it’s uncommon to see
fabric which is then folded and tied to the wearer’s
females wearing the lungi as one travels outside
preference. A stitched version has both open ends
Kerala.
joined together and stitched to form a tube. No matter what the color and design of the lungi, there is always a thin line or stripe running horizontally at the top and bottom of the fabric.
A lungi in plain white is called a mundu. This
Origin of lungi…
version is reserved for special occasions such as weddings or important festivals. Silk is sometimes
Design
used in place of cotton; and gold embroidery is used in place of the simple stripe.
According to information available on Wikipedia/lungi… Unlike dhotis, which are linear like sheets, lungis are sewn into a tube shape like a skirt. They are especially worn in hot regions. There are also cheaper "open" lungis, in identical dimensions but not sewn into a tube shape. The standard adult lungi is 115 cm in height and 200 cm in length,
Available at www.images.google.com/lungi-comfort
when open. Children's lungis are available in approximately 2/3 of this size. They are normally
Comfort in lungi….
woven from cotton and come in a variety of designs and colors. Silk lungis are available for ceremonial
How to Tie a Lungi?
purposes such as weddings. The most common styles are either solid-colored or plaid, reflecting the relative ease and cost-effectiveness of producing
The way and kind of a lungi is worn is very much
these patterns on a power loom. Blue is particularly
indicative of the status, age, occupation, region and
popular, since it fades to pleasant tones in contrast
religion of the man or woman. For example, in
to other colors. Regardless of the design or color,
Tamil Nadu the lungi is tied to the left while
lungis are often lined at the top and bottom with a
Keralites tie lungis on the right side. Muslims tie a
black/white stripe containing reinforced weaving to
lungi to the left. To understand all the various
prevent fraying.
respective ways in which Indians wear a lungi is nearly impossible.
Usage
Here are some videos in relation to comfort…. Depending on local tradition, lungis can be worn by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAY8eA48Nbw men and/or women. They are tied or fastened in
various ways, and can be used in different cultural
Southeast Asia. In Bangladesh, the lungi industry is
activities, ranging from normal daily life to
concentrated in Sirajganj, Kustia, and Khulna.
elaborate wedding ceremonies. For daily purposes,
Bangladeshi women do not traditionally wear
a simple "double twist" knot is most popular, where
lungis, although non-Bengali tribal women do wear
two points in the upper edge of lungi are brought
similar garments in some parts of southeastern
together and twisted around twice, with the ends
Bangladesh.
tucked in at the waist. However, it is also common
In April 2013, the Baridhara Housing Society—a
for wearers to simply tie a double "pretzel knot"
housing society in Dhaka—banned lungi, and began
from 2 points on the upper border, which produces
refusing entry to those who wore them. However,
a more secure knot. The lungi's length can also be
many opposed the ban, taking to social media sites
adjusted, for example, by tucking in the lungi at the
such as Facebook and Twitter to criticise the
waist to make it resemble a short skirt.
decision. A march took place on 13 April to oppose the ban. Meanwhile, U.S Ambassador Dan W. Mozina has
Regional Importance
been seen wearing a lungi in front of his house.
Bangladesh Bangladeshi actor Zubair Hasan from Sydney,
India
Australia wearing a traditional lungi and holding up a colorful lungi. The lungi (Bengali:/luŋɡi/) is the most commonly seen dress of Bangladeshi men, although it is not normally worn for formal occasions. In Bangladesh, lungis are worn by men, almost universally indoors and commonly outdoors as well. Elaborately designed tartan cotton, batik, or silk lungis are also often presented as wedding gifts to the groom in a Bangladeshi wedding. The typical Bangladeshi lungi is a seamless tubular shape, as opposed to the single sheet worn in other parts of South and
A lungi clad Oriya man in Baleswar, Odisha In India, the customs behind wearing lungis vary by state. In Kerala, the lungi is generally colourful and available in various designs, and it is worn by both men and women. Physical laborers typically use it as a working dress. A Kerala dhoti is plain white and known as mundu, and it often bears golden embroidery (known as "kasavu"), especially at the border; it is worn as formal attire and on ceremonial occasions like weddings, festivals, etc.
Saffron-coloured mundus are known as kaavi
In Punjab (both Pakistani and Indian portions),
munde. The men sometimes tuck up their mundus
lungis are worn by both men and women. The male
(Kerala dhoti) or lungis with the bottom of the
lungi is also called a tehmat,[2][3] while the female
garment being pulled up and tied back on to the
lungi is called a laacha. They are part of traditional
waist. This would mean that the mundu (Kerala
dance attire in Bhangra dance groups, but are also
dhoti) or lungi only covers the body from the waist
popular in rural areas as home wear. They are
to the knees.
generally tied in a different way than in other parts
In Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, only men wear
of India and are, as a rule, unstitched and very
this garment, and it is worn slightly differently
colourful. Wearing the lungi has declined in the
from men in Kerala; Keralites tie the mundu to the
Punjab region in recent years.
right side, while the Tamilians tie it to their left. However, there are exceptions and some of the
In Odisha, and West Bengal the lungi is primarily
Muslim communities in Kerala also tie the mundu
worn at home by males of all classes of society.
to their left. It is also known as "Kaili" or
Hindu men generally avoid wearing lungis on the
"Saaram/Chaaram" in South Tamil Nadu. The
street.
Muslims of Tamil Nadu are found to favor white-
In Odisha, Sambalpuri with the Sambalpuri
colored lungis for formal occasions.
pattern and mule based lungis from Khordha are
In Karnataka it is customary for village residents to
available in addition to normal cotton fabric lungis.
wear the lungi at all times and for all occasions. The
In Bihar and Haryana the lungi is considered a
garment is always worn for marriages; the bride
night garment for men.
and groom fathers and the groom himself wear white panche. If a family can afford it, they typically choose a pure silk panche for the marriage ceremony. Navayath Muslim men from Bhatkal and surrounding areas of coastal Karnataka, wear this garment as a common attire, and it is worn slightly differently from other states as it is stitched in the middle.
BIBLIOGRAPHY Anam(2009)Rajasthan Textiles. Available at: http://www.rajasthantextiles.com/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pathak Sujay, Parelkal Ruchita(2014)’My Wedding Planning’, Available at: http:// www.myweddingplanning.in › Indian Wedding Blog › Bridal couture[Accessed on 25 September 2014] Tierney Tom(2003)Fashions From India. Dover Publications.
Radhika(2010)’Significance of colour in Rajasthan Culture’,2 September. Available at: https://rr2606.wordpress.com/tag/significance-of-colour-in-rajasthan-culture/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pilani(2012). Women’s costume in Rajasthan. Available at: http://www.discoveredindia.com/rajasthan/culture-inrajasthan/costumes-in-rajasthan/women's-costumes-in-rajasthan.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsav Fashion(2014). Utsav Fashion. Available At: http://www.utsavfashion.in/lehenga/lehengasignificance.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Maps of India(2011). Rajasthan Dresses. Available at: http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_jodhaa.shtml [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Lungi. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungi [Accessed 25 September 2014] Full Stop India(2013). Lungi, the dress of South India. Available at: http://www.fullstopindia.com/lungi-the-dress-ofsouth-india [Accessed 25 September 2014] Damyanti(2008). Typical skirts: History and Conception. Available at: http://www.lifeinitaly.com/fashion/skirthistory.asp [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Costumes(2010). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://indiancostumes.indianetzone.com/1/chaniya_choli.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsavpedia(2014). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/chaniya-choli-the-desert-rose/ [Accessed 25 September 2014 Slideshare(2013). The difference between Lehenga choli and Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.slideshare.net/fashionkafatka01/the-difference-between-lehenga-choli-and-chaniya-choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Wear(2013). The beautiful dresses of India. Available at: http://indianwear.in/ghagra_choli.html [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Ghagra Choli. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indobase(2014). Lehenga History. Available at: http://www.indobase.com/fashion/women-fashion/apparels/ethnicwear/lehenga-choli/lehenga-history.html [Accessed 25 September 2014]