REPORT ON SKIRTS. PEARL ACADEMY, MUMBAI. FASHION DESIGNING. NIDHI JOSHI MADHUR BADWANI HARSH CHAUHAN HITAYSHI SHAH KHYATI SARAF COHORT: 2014-2018 DATE: 26.9.2014 DURATION- 9:00 AM, 24.9.14 – 4:00 PM, 26.9.14 1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT.
We are using this opportunity to express our gratitude to the academy for providing us this platform and everyone else who supported us throughout the Report Writing. We are thankful for their aspiring guidance, invaluably constructive criticism and friendly advice during the report work. We are sincerely grateful to them for sharing their truthful and illuminating views on a number of issues related to the project. Also stating that the content is original, and duly acknowledging the sources. We express our warm thanks to Mr. KUNTAL DE and Ms. SHWETA MINOCHA for their support and guidance at PEARL ACADEMY. We would also like to thank our Course Leader and all the people who provided us with the facilities that were required and conducive conditions for our report.
Thank you.
MADHUR HITAYSHI HARSH KHYATI NIDHI
2
INDEX SERIAL NO. 01. 02. 03. 04.
05. 06.
TITLE TITLE OF THE REPORT
PAGE NO. 01
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 02 INDEX 03 INTRODUCTION (SKIRTS) 04-10 CHAPTER 1 Origin of Indian Skirts Modern and Bollywood Lehenga Types of Fabric Fabrics CHAPTER 2 Embroidary used in Chaniya Choli CHAPTER 3 Sodha Rajput Origin and History 3
10-11 11-21
Present Day Scenario Variations Significance of Significance of Colours used in Rajasthani Skirt Lehengas in General and their Significance Innovation and modern take on the Rajasthani lehenga Influences over the years Innovation 07.
08. 09. 10.
CHAPTER 4 What is a lungi Types of Lungi Design Usage Regional importance of Bangladesh Indias SUGGESTIONS LIMITATIONS BIBLOGRAPHY
4
21-25
26 27 28-29
Marathi chaniyas in olden times Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli#mediaviewe r/File:Marathi_dancing_girls.jpg
According to http://www.indobase.com Indian Lehanga choli has traveled a long way from Mughal royal courts to Wedding Pandals. It is interesting to
CH. 1
know about lehanga history, which says that it is attired by women since Mughal era. It has acquired the status of festivity wardrobe. Consisting of
ORIGIN OF INDIAN SKIRTS
beautiful pleated skirt called Lehanga and tight fitting
(LEHENGAS)
blouse called Choli along with the graceful odhni or Dupatta, lehanga tradition is driving women crazy not just in India but worldwide. Whenever we talk about Dandiya, the first thing that comes to our mind is Chaniya Choli available in exotic colors and ornamented designs. It was very popular among royal ladies of the Mughal times. At that time it was considered as a dress that had the ability to bedeck Indian beauty in the most modest manner. Dupatta was actually meant to cover heads while offering prayers to God and as a sign of respect before elders.
1.1
Even today, the essence of Mughal culture is very
5
much intact and is depicted in traditional Mughal
fashion trend. The Indian fashion industry has its
designs. This tribal outfit is so much in vogue that it
roots related to Bollywood. Bollywood lehengas
has virtually replaced our traditional Sari in wedding
always set the trend of fashion in India. The
pandals or Mandap.
Bollywood lehenga choli fashion is not hide. Actresses wear fashion lehngas latest fashion lehengas, which
Today, most of the brides chose to wear a designer
are designed by top famous designers. The chaniya
Bridal Lehanga in colors of pink, red and maroon on
choli fashion, wedding lehenga fashion also came from
their special day. This garment has undergone some
Bollywood. Embroidered lehenga is the traditional
transformation in terms of styles. The gamut of
wear of Indian women since ancient time. Popular
Lehanga Choli is very wide and ranges from
both among wanderers, tribals as well as royal people
Traditional cum Embroided Lehanga to Sahara,
of olden days, embroidered lehengas come in many
Garara and Lancha to specially designed Indian
different styles.
wedding Lehanga. Though we have witnessed
Feminine and graceful, the long skirt is decorated
innumerable changes in its styling and designing but
with embroidery and mirror work. The short, fitted
one thing is for sure that the fashion of Lehanga choli
choli is also in festive colors and has gorgeous
tradition will never fade.
embroidery. Wearing of custom lehengas at occasions is the latest fashion / trend.
TYPES OF FABRIC:
Fabrics are generally used to give the dress a cool and light weight feel. Fabrics like silk, khadi, brocade and
According to the information available from
chiffon are also used.
http://www.ghagra.org.in -Many types of fabrics are used in choli lehanga preparation. Some of the commonly used fabrics are crepe, georgette, net, satin
MODERN AND BOLLYWODD
and silk.
LEHENGA. A lehenga with choli and dupatta is also known as lehenga set. There are many lehenga sets, which are in
6
CREPE FABRIC
include veils, curtains, and fish nets this fabric is
Crepe, a thin fabric widely
used in Indian choli, woven originally in silk but now
widely used in fancy lehenga.
available in all major fibers. There are two kinds of
SATIN FABRICSatin is a traditional fabric
crepe. The hard - finished, typically dyed black and
utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a
used for mourning (which tends to retain the old
lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for
spelling crape), is made of hand - twisted silk yarn
evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of
and finished by a rather complex trade process after
satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe - back
weaving; the soft crepe include the Canton, or
satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin and antique
Oriental, weaves in plain or damask weaves. Their
satin.
crisped or wavy appearance results from the peculiar
SILK FABRICSilk is a luxurious and sensuous
arrangement of the weft, which is formed of yarn
fabric, one associated with wealth and success. During
from two different bobbins twisted together in
the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in
opposite directions or uses alternately a right - twisted
gold. Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and
and a left - twisted thread. Crepe fabric is used in
silk garments are prized for their versatility, wear
almost all garments like Indian ghagra choli, bridal
ability and comfort. Silk is the strongest natural fiber.
leenghas, sarees, fashion lehenga and salwar kameez.
Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the
GEORGETTE FABRICGeorgette is a thin
summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high
woven silk fabric often of crepe yarn and
absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk
construction. Georgette choli lehangas are famous in
retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and
Bollywood. It is - a sheer silk or rayon crepe of dull
shimmers with a luster all its own. It is the most
texture. A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk
common traditional women clothing being exported
or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a
by women.
crepe surface. End - uses include dresses and blouses.
NET FABRIC Net fabric is an open fabric,
Design and colour:There are ghagra choli of vivid
which is created by connecting the intersections in a
colour contrasts with traditional as well as modern
woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a
patterns. It is the embroidery and the shape that
mesh - like appearance that won't ravel. End - uses
makes all the difference to the ghagra choli and one can identify it with the occasion it is meant for. Indian
7
•
market has a wide collection of ghagra/lehenga cholis
ghagra choli's intricate designs create excitement
such as
amongst the fashion conscious women. Wearing of
Designer lehengas
lehenga is a fashion with lasting values and rich craftsmanship. It is so much in fashion that it is one of
•
Traditional ghagra cholis
the most favoured dress at beauty pageant contests at national as well as international level.
•
Embroidered lehengas
•
Hand worked lehengas
VARITIESAccording to the information available on the website www.nrigujarati.co.in .Chaniya Choli comes in
•
Indian bridal lehengas
different kinds of variety, including Ghagra, which has full length skirt, along with blouses and skirts
Even the lehengas are of different shapes such as
•
Straight cut lehengas
•
Fish tail lehengas
featuring Zari, Resham work, Zardozi, sequins and mirror work with precious stones. Designer versions of Chaniya Choli include different cuts in the skirt, including styles like straight or fish cut, mermaid cut,
•
full flair Chaniya, panelled cut or circular and A-
Mermaid lehengas
shape cuts.
•
Paneled lehngas
•
Kali ghagras lenghas
•
Circular lehengas
•
A-line lehngas
Interesting facts and comparisons A wide daily wear garment, Chaniya Choli can also be used for special occasions. In fact, it is regularly featured in Indian weddings and during festivals like Diwali.
•
Even today, a lot of local producers and designers use
Lehengas with full flair
natural colours to dye the outfit in hues like red, blue, The Indian Lehenga choli brings out the essence of
yellow and green.
feminism. Similar to the western skirt and blouse, the
8
Mirror Work is most common in daily wear Chaniya
Satin
Choli.
Brocade Chiffon
1.
Lehenga/Ghagra Choli
2.
Chaniya Choli
The most famous traditional dress of India is lehenga Chaniya choli is another form or say another name of
choli or ghagra choli. The Indian lehenga cholis with
ghagra choli. The home of the chaniya choli is no
their glittering mirror work very attractive. The
doubt Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan. The outfit is
lehenga choli or ghagra choli is extremely colourful
popular in the west and north of India. In the south,
and attractive. The Indian lehenga choli/ghagra choli
another more streamlined version known as the
is usually worn with the 'dupatta' to cover the head
'pavade' is popular. There is a tremendous boost to
and the chest. In India, lehenga choli is also known as
the chaniya choli in recent time as a fashion garment
lehenga or ghagra chunni or chunri, ghagra chunari,
expecially in weddings. Fabric in Chaniya Choli
ghagra chunaris and sometimes Lachcha choli.
Fabrics that are used for chaniya cholis normally
Wearing of this traditional dress at formal occasions
range from cotton, silk to khadi and at times chiffon,
is the latest trend. There is a tremendous boost to the
organza, satin cotton, raw silk and brocade. But the
ghagra choli in recent time as a fashion gaments.
last variety is only for weddings and formal occasions.
Lehenga is a typical feminine silhouette that
The creation of a chaniya choli takes a couple of
epitomizes style, craftsmanship, quality and class of
weeks to create as the fabrics are embroidered in
Indian clothing.
Gujarat, Kutch and Rajasthan and sent to different craftsmen after which they are stitched into garments. Three parts of Chaniya Cholis.
Fabric in Indian Lehenga
•
Silk
•
Georgette
•
Crepe
In Maharashtra brides wear a Paithani sari, terrific
•
Net
Lehnga and shawl with its gold brocade border woven intricately with birds, flowers and geometrical
9
patterns. Other woven saris from this region, such as Chanderis, Indoris, and Maheshwaris also form part Traditional Ghagra choli:The traditional dress for of the trousseau with yellows, orange and greens being women in Rajasthan and Gujarat is the lehenga choli the dominant colors. or ghagra choli but can be seen all over the country. The ensemble of the Muslim bride from Hydria is the
These cholis are brightly embroidered, waist- length
zari-encrusted blouse with a lehenga. The veil
bare - backed blouses. Indian ghagra cholis, lehengas
(dupatta) is edged with gold tassels and embroidered
are gathered ankle - length skirts secured around the
all over. Tissues and brocades are used in abundance.
waist. The attire is completed by a veil - cloth called odhni or dupatta draped across the neck or over the
Wearing of bridal ghagra choli is a fashion with head. The Indian lehenga choli is one of the most lasting values and rich craftsmanship. colorful Indian clothing, adding verve and color to the surrounding landscapes. Tribal women in these area bedeck themselves from head to toe with chunky Party Wear Ghagra choli: Ghagra choli or Lehenga
silver jeweler
choli is the most preferred party wear of young people. Most of the important guests in weddings will
The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel
be in a ghagra choli. The ghagra choli is worn to mark
worn during festivals, weddings or special events in
important occasions and festivals. The Indian ghagra
India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact
choli can be worn at main occasions like mehendi,
that it is available in a number of fabrics with many
dandiya / sangeet, the wedding ceremony and the
different decorative choices.[10] Traditionally the sari
reception. Outfits for women such as the 'Indian
and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments
Ghagra or Lehenga - choli' brings out the essence of
for the bride in India.[11] But it is a common bridal
feminism.Embroidered Indian ghagra choli is quite
attire mostly in North India and is also the traditional
famous round the globe. It is one of the oldest form of
wear of Garba festival in Gujarat.
Indian clothing.
CH. 2
The young generation has evolved the traditional choli to strap less blouse, spaghetti top and tube top.
10
their identity as a group and take a pride in the fact that their ‘stiches outlive the cloth on which they are
EMBROIDERY
USED
IN
sewn’.
CHANIYA(CHOLI) [Gujarat]:
MUTWA EMBROIDERY-
According to the tourism corporation of Gujarat limited -there are 18 types of hand embroidery bring culture and identity to the colorful silken thread which kutchi women use to decorate fabrics and traditional dress. Villages: Dhordo, Kuran, Vayor, 2.2
Guneri, Dholavira, and Sumrasar. available
JAT EMBROIDERY-
at:
http://threadsthroughindia.wordpress.com/page/2/ In Muslim communities within the Banni region of kutch,
where
embroidery
is
women
observe
purdah,
most
common.
This
Mutwa craft
is
distinguished by its highly intricate work with tiny mirrors; a very fastidious and labour intensive.
CH. 3
2.1 available at:;http://www.equalcraft.com/shop/B004BW71ZA/Ta ble-Runner-with-Hand-Stitched-Jat-Embroidery-and-
SODHA RAJPUT –
Beadwork-Red Extremly
labour
intensive,
the
power
of
The evolution of Rajasthani Skirts
jat
embroidery comes from the closely stitched patterns that cover the entire cloth. Jats are very conscious of
11
available at:http://harekrsnascreations.blogspot.in When the sodhas migrated from Sindh between 200-500 years ago, they brought with them a whole they came in contact with. The predominant style of embroidery is referred to as pakko embroidery but sodha rajputs also utilize stitches such as neran, kharek,.
3.1 According to the information given on the website
these has to be that they all are encompassing
costumerguide.com the origin having to do with a
everywhere over the designing and elegance. Every
lehenga choli can be traced back to explore medieval a
fiance-to-be aspires to educate yourself regarding be on
number of years and for instance before all around the
the lookout slightly like an all in one queen size on he or
India. It you can use to ensure they are the royal attire
she wedding day and what lots of other way to explore
about going to be the queens and princesses. From
have to worry about element than stepping into an all in
typical decide what to wear having to do with royalty for
one clothier lehenga choli all of which transforms all
more information regarding an all in one customary get
your family members into a living princess having to do
dressed because they are worn all around the special
with the bygone era. When we talk about this ethnical
occasions uggs sale,a lehenga has can be acquired a
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multi functional far away way as part of your golf
concerning a multi functional Rajasthani lehenga choli
course about they all are a few of these many many
with your context. Since Rajasthan has been new ones
years. Today, wearing a multi-function lehenga has
for additional details on going to be the great Rajputana
become very ceremonial rrn no way choices too the
tradition and people considering the fact that a short
fiance but take heart also on the basis of the just minutes
time immemorial,a typical pattern relating to Rajasthani
relatives on going to be the family. A fashion designer
lehenga choli became an all in one craze so that you have
lehenga choli is most likely the progressed significantly
some time This pattern has old and exquisite hand work
form concerning this a widely used get dressed all of
all around the going to be the coloring highlights which
12
also has more and more flares michael kors watches.
bulky sac longchamps. Such was the grandeur having to
Legend has a resource box that going to be the royal
do with this wilderness state about India that many a lot
ladies relating to Rajasthan you can use for more
of women having said all that precisely what it takes this
information on wear any one of these heavy lehengas
old preferences of an all in one Rajastahni Lehenga choli
that their maid servants had to carry them along as they
everywhere over the their wedding day longchamp sac.
walked. There which they can display to ensure they are
When actress Raveena Tandon arranged to learn more
real gold and diamond have the desired effect
about marry in an all in one royal design and style
everywhere in the their outfits which made them and so
lindsay decide
d a multi function Rajasthani Lehenga Choli
going to be the seasonal spirit having to do
and Udaipur as the puppy wedding
with the people Then there are also patch
destination. Though intricate brocade,
works, kalamkari, ikat have the desired effect
linen,marketing campaign and chiffon are
and a great many other hand embroidered
preferred fabrics enchanting making this
chaniya cholis worn by going to be the young
dress; there are lot of kinds to do with
ladies completely the festivals.Whichever
affordable versions also available as part of
occasion all your family members and you'll
your name having to do with an all in one
have opt to learn more about wear it; a
cotton lehenga choli. These kinds are more
clothier lehenga choli has definitely made its
often than not worn all over dandia festivals
mark do not choices upon India but also
all around the Gujarat and Rajasthan. Every
throughout the going to be the international
year will see newer improvements and recent
platform. With a lot more and a good deal
styles upon cotton lehenga choli being that
more designers trying their hand all around
they are gone to live in for this occasion.
the this garment,they need to purchase
These are available everywhere over the
element online has also become you can
bandhini preferences all of which is the fact
possibly imagine regarding late. Many
also basically called as the art concerning
websites bring going to be the mystic and charm relating to this decide what to wear all
reduce and darken Mirror have the desired
the way to understand more about going to be
effect patterns are also popular and further
the comforts having to do with your a
add charm to educate yourself regarding
13
replacement providing some one their
and flowers. Handmade Ghagras are classic.
interpersonal wear available on the internet on the web and stores. Rajrang ugg boots uk.com is the fact that a minumum of one any
Present Day Scenario
of these loving So yearly a short time when all
ITC PILANI (2012) described the graceful and
your family members opt for to educate
intricate work on the Ghagra is done by hand. The
yourself regarding add another some form of
fabric is cut into panels and stitched according to
to your kitty, dont forget the available on the
the style, the motifs, embellishment. Materials like
internet option on the store.
georgette, net and crepe are popular today. It takes least 20 days to get a Ghagra stitched
Origin and history
The term ‘Rajasthani Ghagra’ evokes images of Author TOM TIERNER history of Ghagra goes
bright swirling colours in the desert radiant with
back to the 5th or 6th century A.D. Garments
mirrors, with the background of decorated camels,
similar to the Ghagra can be seen in Buddhist
the valour and hospitality of Rajputs, and the art
sculptures and paintings dating from the Kushana
and crafts of Rajasthan.
or early Gupta period – the archetype of the
The Rajasthani Ghagra is a kind of pleated skirt
modern Ghagra.
that is long and embroidered and worn as the lower
The origin of the Ghagra can be traced back to the
portion of a Ghagra kanchli or Choli (blouse). It is
courts in the Mughal era, showcasing Indian
tied around the waist and held by a drawstring. The
culture and arts. The length of the Ghagra which Ghagra evolved from Bhainivasani, which has earlier skimmed the floor has been shortened to
its
grace the ankles. A favourite for all kinds of formal
roots in the Antariya.
and religious occasions, the Ghagra’s Choli or
This traditional clothing of Ghagra and Choli is
blouse has detailed patch work. This in turn is
worn by women in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya
designed with beads, fancy stitches, shells, and
Pradesh, Bihar, Harayana, Himachal Pradesh,
sequins, the motifs commonly used are of birds,
Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand. The fabrics used
animals
for a Ghagra are cotton, silk, khadi, georgette,
14
crepe, net, satin, brocade and chiffon. Silk and cotton are the favoured materials.
Variations The ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the same length as original antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns in India. In Andhra Pradesh it is called as Langa and part of 3.3 available at
the dress Langa Voni.
www.pinterest.com/fionascreations/mirrorwor k.htm
Until early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes showed martial status of women as both married and unmarried women observed Ghoonghat. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely undecorated but were decorated with gota strips along the border on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were Indigo, Lac and Haldi. This style can still be seen in rural areas of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk festivals. Ancient unstitched form of gagra has survived in 3.2
folk theater costumes across India, particularly in
Available at
Kathakali of Kerala, where layers of pleated khadi
www.images.google.com/rajasthanilehengas.c
fabric are laid over a nada and tied around the
om/modern/jabongg
waist creating layers of flared skirt. This reflects
15
simplistic early style of unstitched gagras worn in
auspiciousness, plenty and prosperity…It is one of
ancient times.
the most favourite colours of choice, singly or in combination with hot pink and bright red, for women’s veils and men’s turbans… Above all, Kesar is the colour of the native Rajasthani’s love and longing for her/his lover… embodied as the Kesariya… According to the information available from the website www.utsavfashion.in arid desert region of vast distances, men of all communities – other than agriculturists – have traditionally, for thousands of years, been compelled to migrate far from home in search of livelihood or fortune… whether as merchants, warriors, herdsmen or artisans. Given 3.4
the tradition of early betrothal and marriage, the
available at
experience of loneliness and separation came early
www.wikipedia.com/variationslehenga.colours
in the lives of men and women here (Rajasthan’s
/drapesrajasthan
notorious institution of child marriage, and the resulting maternal and infant death statistics,
Significane of colours used in
continue to reflect some of the negative outcomes of this social practice).
rajasthani skirts RADHIKAS BLOG (2010) proposed that Kesar colour in Rajasthan has several connotations. It is saffron, the most delectable of spices…It is the colour of fragrant, sublime sandalwood…Kesar reflects the golden sand dunes of the region…It symbolizes the aspiration of the people for
3.5
16
available at
where they were decorated elaborately without any
www.wordpress.com/tag/significanecolours-
limitation. The female ghagras were very short
rajasthan.htm
displaying the exquisite leg ornaments, and they are even now displayed in the paintings. But now as the
“Kesariya baalam, aawo ni,
parda system is becoming out dated, the rajasthani
Padhaaro maaro des…
women’s clothes are seeing a lot of transformation.
Sraavan aavan kaha gayo,
The length of the ghagras has been increased to
Kar gayo kol anek,
hide the legs and feet. Now days the Rajput ghagra
Ginta ginta ghis gayee,
trails all over the ground making the women appear
Maaree aangaliya ri rekh” , Kesariya…”
more beautiful and lavish. There are some women
ANAM (2011) proposed that one of the most
that work in field. They wear ghagras which reach
significant factors which ascertain the variations in
10cm of length, above their ankles. Many times they
attire of women in Rajasthan is her marital status.
even wear ankle and leg bracelets which are worn
Extremely rich fabrics, heavy ornaments and bright
not only for the adornment but also for protecting
colors which are linked to marriage and fertility
the women against bites and brambles when they
reflect her status. Speaking of sharp contrast, the
walk down the fields.
dull, white and light colors which are devoid of
is worn by the Rajasthan females and is long skirts
embellishments reflect the widow status of any
that touch the ankle. These have narrow waist while
women. There are number of variations in color, cut
flare at the base. not like the normal skirts, the
and style along with embellishments which very
fabric at the end of the skirts is not folded but is a
transparently reflect the assorted communities in
wide colored cloth which is called sinjaf that is
Rajasthan.
sewen with an intention to make it strong. Ghagra’s
The attires of females in Rajasthan indicate their
width and no. of pleats is meant to be display the
social status too. Like the Rajput females that
wealth of the wearer. Just like the pagari, this
belong to the affluent social order mainly follow the
ghagra is available in different colors, prints and
parda system. Here the women was restricted in her
styles.
movement and was not allowed to show off much. Their attires were kept in private women quarter
17
delivery to any destination in the world.
• •
FESTIVAL LEHENGA CHOLI : Festivals and fairs have always been a part of India and will stay so forever to add to India's colour and integrity. Take a look at fairs and festivals of this country in order to become a part of the same.
3.6
India is a land of festivals and fairs. Every festival
available at www.images.utsavfashion.bogspot-
has some or the other traditional or religious
rajasthan
importance. Every day of the year there is a festival celebrated in some part of the country. Some festivals welcome the seasons of the year, the
Lehengas in general and their
harvest, the rains, or the full moon. Others
religious significance
celebrate religious occasions, the birtlink birthdays of divine beings, Saints, and gurus (the revered
From the period of Lord Krishna, the gopis
teachers), or the advent of the new year. A number
have been known to be wearing lehenga
of these festivals are common to most parts of India,
choli or ghagra choli during raaslila.
however, they may be called by different names in
Wearing Lehenga choli is in Indian culture from
ancient.
Indian
ghagra
the various parts of the country or may be
choli&
celebrated in a different fashion. Every festival is
increase the beauty of women. Lehenga in
celebrated in a unique style. Indian ethnic lehenga
red color looks really very nice lal ghagra is
garments have special significance in accordance
example of this fact. These are the some
with colors, fabrics and festivals.
significance that in Indian wedding bride wear bridal choli lehenga.
•
Baisakhi is the harvest festival of the
Utsav Fashion is the best bridal choli
Punjab and is celebrated with dances and gaiety.
lehenga shop with more than 5000 latest
The solar new year's day is observed on this day
designs of lehengas for wedding, indian
throughout northern India. For Hindus, it is
ghagra choli, ghagra lal red, wedding
significant of the days of the descent of the Ganges
chaniya cholis and is known for express
to the earth, and people take holy dips in rivers.
18
The Sikhs attach religious significance to day, as it
People try to break this pot by forming pyramides.
is day of the formation of the Singh, who converted
It is also commonly known as 'DAHI HANDI".
the Sikhs into a martial race. On this day in 1699, Guru Gobind Singh organized the Sikhs into the 'Khalsa'. In Punjab, farmers start their harvesting operations on this day with great fanfare. women in traditional lehengas use to dance at this festival in some of the parts of northern India.
•
Id - ul - Fitr or Ramazan Id is a day of feasting and rejoicing as it marks the end of the end of Ramazan (Ramadan), the Muslim time of fasting.
3.7
On the day of Id Muslim women and girls wear
available at
lehenga cholis or lal gaghra and celebrate this
www.mapsofindia.com/rajasthan/people
festival. Janamashtami The birth of lord Krishna, the eighth incarnation on earth of Lord
Available at www.pinterest.com/discovered india
Vishnu, is celebrated throughout India. Devotees celebrate it by fasting and prayers, which is followed by feasting and merriment. The temples remain open throughout the night and birth of lord Krishna is celebrated at midnight. Scenes of lord Krishna's childhood are enacted in Matura and Vrindavan.On the next morning Nand Utsav is celebrated. people distribute prasad and dance with joy. Women of Matura wear lehengas and dance. Earthern pots filled with butter, favourite of lord krishna are tied to several places at certain heights.
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3.8
embedded in the Rajput culture and style which
Innovations and modern take on the age
always showed in her colorful dupattas or her
old rajasthani lehengas
elaborate lehengas. For the most part Jodha always covered her head with the pallu of her dupatta,
The portrait shown in THE EVOLUTION OF
while on the other hand she only went bare headed
LEHENGA and the costumes worn by Jodha before
when she was in her palace room, or basically
entering the limelight, traces its roots and
indoors. Another symbol of her Rajput roots was
emergence way back to the Mughal Period which
her way of adorning herself, which was with a red
was truly patronized by the historic legend
bindi, which also further showcased her sense of
‘Jodhabai’. These royal costumes were inspired by
tradition.
the Mughal style of clothing which also had innovative slices of the Rajput style of designs and embroideries in it. The fabrics used for the
Influences over the years
costumes were originally manufactured and woven in Rajasthan. The grandness of these costumes was given the essence of reality by the artisans who
Recently, the biggest block buster in Bollywood,
intricately wove exquisite styles of embroidery,
Jodha-Akbar’, which was directed and produced by
motifs and embellishments on the finest forms of
Ashutosh Gowariker saw a resurgence in the
Silk and Cotton, during the golden era of the
timeless classic tale. Jodha which was played by
Mughal dynasty.
Aishwarya Rai was given the same regal
Fabrics like silk, cotton and brocade were stitched
representation as she had been in history books.
along with intricate embroideries of Kundan,
One of India’s most talented fashion designers,
crystal stones and Zardozi. Based on historical facts
Neeta Lulla designed the costumes for both Jodha
and figures, Jodha wore ornate jewelry and
and Akbar and tastefully designed each outfit,
lehengas along with dupattas that had rich colors
keeping the traditions and historical roots in mind.
and heavy borders. Large neck pieces and earrings,
Heavily embroidered dupattas in light colors of
and a large nose ring, also called a ‘bali’ was used to
yellow, orange and green, along with flowy lehengas
adorn her flawless beauty. She may have married
and jewelry that showcased a typical Rajasthani
the greatest Mughal ruler, but her roots were deeply
style were all used to portray the queen’s elegance
20
and majestic charm. Such style became a hit with weddings all over India, since every bride wanted to look like Jodha. The regional Rajasthani charm and the vintage style of saris and lehengas came back into fashion and in a huge way!
Innovations Information available from the website www.utsavfashion.in , colored stones which previously studded all royal costumes, especially the Jodha costume, are now innovatively replaced by semi precious stones and shimmering metallic threads of silver and gold. More of block prints and bandhani patterns are weaved into the royal fabrics which have taken fashion onto a different level altogether. Ethnic saris and ghagra cholis are being embroidered with the designs and patterns of the Jodha costume, thus aiming at retaining the originality. Skirts and lehengas are now traditionally woven with the same fabric and textures.
CH.4 Men’s Skirt (lungi)
Significance of lungi‌. 21
According to fullstopindia.com….
Types of Lungi
What is a Lungi?
A lungi is a casual version of the popular bottom dress in South India. It’s easily identifiable due to the colorful floral or windowpane patterns of
Looking like a cross between a bed sheet and a
fabric. Pronounced “loon” + “gey”, lungis come one towel, lungis are a garment worn around the waist. size fits all for adults with a slightly smaller cut for The fit and style of a well tied lungi is similar to a children. Cotton is the most common fabric used as sarong skirt. This casual dress is a part of daily life it breaths well, is abundant within India, and it is a for all classes of Indians, specifically the working tremendously versatile cloth for dying. class who prefer the ease of movement as well as There are two preferred ways of producing a lungi: natural cooling effect which comes from an open open and stitched. An open lungi is simply a piece of bottom. fabric which is then folded and tied to the wearer’s Some states in North India such as Bihar, Orissa preference. A stitched version has both open ends and Pashim Banga (West Bengal) also have adapted joined together and stitched to form a tube. No this favored dress. However, it’s uncommon to see matter what the color and design of the lungi, there females wearing the lungi as one travels outside is always a thin line or stripe running horizontally Kerala. at the top and bottom of the fabric. A lungi in plain white is called a mundu. This version is reserved for special occasions such as weddings or important festivals. Silk is sometimes used in place of cotton; and gold embroidery is used in place of the simple stripe.
4.1
available at www.en.wikipedia.org/lungi
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Design According to information available on Wikipedia/lungi… Unlike dhotis, which are linear like sheets, lungis are sewn into a tube shape like a skirt. They are especially worn in hot regions. There are also cheaper "open" lungis, in identical dimensions but not sewn into a tube shape. The standard adult
4.2
lungi is 115 cm in height and 200 cm in length,
Available at www.images.google.com/lungi-comfort
when open. Children's lungis are available in approximately 2/3 of this size. They are normally
Comfort in lungi….
woven from cotton and come in a variety of designs and colors. Silk lungis are available for ceremonial purposes such as weddings. The most common
How to Tie a Lungi?
styles are either solid-colored or plaid, reflecting the relative ease and cost-effectiveness of producing The way and kind of a lungi is worn is very much
these patterns on a power loom. Blue is particularly
indicative of the status, age, occupation, region and
popular, since it fades to pleasant tones in contrast
religion of the man or woman. For example, in
to other colors. Regardless of the design or color,
Tamil Nadu the lungi is tied to the left while
lungis are often lined at the top and bottom with a
Keralites tie lungis on the right side. Muslims tie a
black/white stripe containing reinforced weaving to
lungi to the left. To understand all the various
prevent fraying.
respective ways in which Indians wear a lungi is nearly impossible.
Usage
Here are some videos in relation to comfort…. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAY8eA48Nbw
Depending on local tradition, lungis can be worn by
Origin of lungi…
men and/or women. They are tied or fastened in
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various ways, and can be used in different cultural
the groom in a Bangladeshi wedding. The typical
activities, ranging from normal daily life to
Bangladeshi lungi is a seamless tubular shape, as
elaborate wedding ceremonies. For daily purposes,
opposed to the single sheet worn in other parts of
a simple "double twist" knot is most popular, where
South and Southeast Asia. In Bangladesh, the lungi
two points in the upper edge of lungi are brought
industry is concentrated in Sirajganj, Kustia, and
together and twisted around twice, with the ends
Khulna. Bangladeshi women do not traditionally
tucked in at the waist. However, it is also common
wear lungis, although non-Bengali tribal women do
for wearers to simply tie a double "pretzel knot"
wear similar garments in some parts of
from 2 points on the upper border, which produces
southeastern Bangladesh.
a more secure knot. The lungi's length can also be
In April 2013, the Baridhara Housing Society—a
adjusted, for example, by tucking in the lungi at the
housing society in Dhaka—banned lungi, and began
waist to make it resemble a short skirt.
refusing entry to those who wore them. However, many opposed the ban, taking to social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter to criticise the decision. A march took place on 13 April to oppose
Regional Importance
the ban.
Bangladesh
Meanwhile, U.S Ambassador Dan W. Mozina has been seen wearing a lungi in front of his house.
Bangladeshi actor Zubair Hasan from Sydney, Australia wearing a traditional lungi and holding
India
up a colorful lungi. The lungi (Bengali: লুঙ্গি /ঙ /luŋɡi/) is the most
A lungi clad Oriya man in Baleswar, Odisha
commonly seen dress of Bangladeshi men, although
In India, the customs behind wearing lungis vary by
it is not normally worn for formal occasions. In
state.
Bangladesh, lungis are worn by men, almost
In Kerala, the lungi is generally colourful and
universally indoors and commonly outdoors as well.
available in various designs, and it is worn by both
Elaborately designed tartan cotton, batik, or silk
men and women. Physical laborers typically use it
lungis are also often presented as wedding gifts to
as a working dress. A Kerala dhoti is plain white
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and known as mundu, and it often bears golden
Navayath Muslim men from Bhatkal and
embroidery (known as "kasavu"), especially at the
surrounding areas of coastal Karnataka, wear this
border; it is worn as formal attire and on
garment as a common attire, and it is worn slightly
ceremonial occasions like weddings, festivals, etc.
differently from other states as it is stitched in the
Saffron-coloured mundus are known as kaavi
middle.
munde. The men sometimes tuck up their mundus
In Punjab (both Pakistani and Indian portions),
(Kerala dhoti) or lungis with the bottom of the
lungis are worn by both men and women. The male
garment being pulled up and tied back on to the
lungi is also called a tehmat,[2][3] while the female
waist. This would mean that the mundu (Kerala
lungi is called a laacha. They are part of traditional
dhoti) or lungi only covers the body from the waist
dance attire in Bhangra dance groups, but are also
to the knees.
popular in rural areas as home wear. They are
In Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, only men wear
generally tied in a different way than in other parts
this garment, and it is worn slightly differently
of India and are, as a rule, unstitched and very
from men in Kerala; Keralites tie the mundu to the
colourful. Wearing the lungi has declined in the
right side, while the Tamilians tie it to their left.
Punjab region in recent years.
However, there are exceptions and some of the Muslim communities in Kerala also tie the mundu
In Odisha, and West Bengal the lungi is primarily
to their left. It is also known as "Kaili" or
worn at home by males of all classes of society.
"Saaram/Chaaram" in South Tamil Nadu. The
Hindu men generally avoid wearing lungis on the
Muslims of Tamil Nadu are found to favor white-
street.
colored lungis for formal occasions.
In Odisha, Sambalpuri with the Sambalpuri
In Karnataka it is customary for village residents to
pattern and mule based lungis from Khordha are
wear the lungi at all times and for all occasions. The
available in addition to normal cotton fabric lungis.
garment is always worn for marriages; the bride
In Bihar and Haryana the lungi is considered a
and groom fathers and the groom himself wear
night garment for men.
white panche. If a family can afford it, they typically choose a pure silk panche for the marriage ceremony.
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Suggestions:Designs of skirts differs on style, types and shapes. Nowadays people want to change and modify old ways of wearing skirts. People are not stuck in same taste, they want old bright and heavy skirts to be simplified into dull and light colours so that they wear it on daily basis. They say that all kinds of skirts should include dividers to make them comfortable. Skirts should be transformed and made long with slit to make them handy and easy to carry. They should be light weight made with fine fabric.
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of skirts. The limitations we faced was because not much research has been done and all the information there is, is with the handicraft workers in villages who don’t have a platform to share their knowledge.
LimitationsOur main topic was Indian skirts, it was very difficult to find information online, only online stores poped-up when we tried to research. There was very little reliable information available because most of the sites consisted of personal opinions and no in-depth information available about Indian skirts especially. Even in libraries it was hard to find any books , the books on skirts were mainly about the pattern and the various techniques of skirt making. We also tried finding information in the college library but there were no books on the types 27
BIBLIOGRAPHY Anam(2009)Rajasthan Textiles. Available at: http://www.rajasthantextiles.com/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pathak Sujay, Parelkal Ruchita(2014)’My Wedding Planning’, Available at: http:// www.myweddingplanning.in › Indian Wedding Blog › Bridal couture[Accessed on 25 September 2014] Tierney Tom(2003)Fashions From India. Dover Publications. Radhika(2010)’Significance of colour in Rajasthan Culture’,2 September. Available at: https://rr2606.wordpress.com/tag/significance-of-colour-in-rajasthan-culture/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pilani(2012). Women’s costume in Rajasthan. Available at: http://www.discoveredindia.com/rajasthan/culture-inrajasthan/costumes-in-rajasthan/women's-costumes-in-rajasthan.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsav Fashion(2014). Utsav Fashion. Available At: http://www.utsavfashion.in/lehenga/lehengasignificance.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Maps of India(2011). Rajasthan Dresses. Available at: http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_jodhaa.shtml [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Lungi. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungi [Accessed 25 September 2014]
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Full Stop India(2013). Lungi, the dress of South India. Available at: http://www.fullstopindia.com/lungi-the-dress-ofsouth-india [Accessed 25 September 2014] Damyanti(2008). Typical skirts: History and Conception. Available at: http://www.lifeinitaly.com/fashion/skirthistory.asp [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Costumes(2010). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://indiancostumes.indianetzone.com/1/chaniya_choli.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsavpedia(2014). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/chaniya-choli-the-desert-rose/ [Accessed 25 September 2014 Slideshare(2013). The difference between Lehenga choli and Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.slideshare.net/fashionkafatka01/the-difference-between-lehenga-choli-and-chaniya-choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Wear(2013). The beautiful dresses of India. Available at: http://indianwear.in/ghagra_choli.html [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Ghagra Choli. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indobase(2014). Lehenga History. Available at: http://www.indobase.com/fashion/women-fashion/apparels/ethnicwear/lehenga-choli/lehenga-history.html [Accessed 25 September 2014]
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