Skirts final final skirts

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REPORT ON SKIRTS. PEARL ACADEMY, MUMBAI. FASHION DESIGNING. NIDHI JOSHI MADHUR BADWANI HARSH CHAUHAN HITAYSHI SHAH KHYATI SARAF COHORT: 2014-2018 DATE: 26.9.2014 DURATION- 9:00 AM, 24.9.14 – 4:00 PM, 26.9.14 1


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT.

We are using this opportunity to express our gratitude to the academy for providing us this platform and everyone else who supported us throughout the Report Writing. We are thankful for their aspiring guidance, invaluably constructive criticism and friendly advice during the report work. We are sincerely grateful to them for sharing their truthful and illuminating views on a number of issues related to the project. Also stating that the content is original, and duly acknowledging the sources. We express our warm thanks to Mr. KUNTAL DE and Ms. SHWETA MINOCHA for their support and guidance at PEARL ACADEMY. We would also like to thank our Course Leader and all the people who provided us with the facilities that were required and conducive conditions for our report.

Thank you.

MADHUR HITAYSHI HARSH KHYATI NIDHI

2


INDEX SERIAL NO. 01. 02. 03. 04.

05. 06.

TITLE TITLE OF THE REPORT

PAGE NO. 01

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 02 INDEX 03 INTRODUCTION (SKIRTS) 04-10 CHAPTER 1 Origin of Indian Skirts Modern and Bollywood Lehenga Types of Fabric Fabrics CHAPTER 2 Embroidary used in Chaniya Choli CHAPTER 3 Sodha Rajput Origin and History 3

10-11 11-21


Present Day Scenario Variations Significance of Significance of Colours used in Rajasthani Skirt Lehengas in General and their Significance Innovation and modern take on the Rajasthani lehenga Influences over the years Innovation 07.

08. 09. 10.

CHAPTER 4 What is a lungi Types of Lungi Design Usage Regional importance of Bangladesh Indias SUGGESTIONS LIMITATIONS BIBLOGRAPHY

4

21-25

26 27 28-29


Marathi chaniyas in olden times Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli#mediaviewe r/File:Marathi_dancing_girls.jpg

According to http://www.indobase.com Indian Lehanga choli has traveled a long way from Mughal royal courts to Wedding Pandals. It is interesting to

CH. 1

know about lehanga history, which says that it is attired by women since Mughal era. It has acquired the status of festivity wardrobe. Consisting of

ORIGIN OF INDIAN SKIRTS

beautiful pleated skirt called Lehanga and tight fitting

(LEHENGAS)

blouse called Choli along with the graceful odhni or Dupatta, lehanga tradition is driving women crazy not just in India but worldwide. Whenever we talk about Dandiya, the first thing that comes to our mind is Chaniya Choli available in exotic colors and ornamented designs. It was very popular among royal ladies of the Mughal times. At that time it was considered as a dress that had the ability to bedeck Indian beauty in the most modest manner. Dupatta was actually meant to cover heads while offering prayers to God and as a sign of respect before elders.

1.1

Even today, the essence of Mughal culture is very

5


much intact and is depicted in traditional Mughal

fashion trend. The Indian fashion industry has its

designs. This tribal outfit is so much in vogue that it

roots related to Bollywood. Bollywood lehengas

has virtually replaced our traditional Sari in wedding

always set the trend of fashion in India. The

pandals or Mandap.

Bollywood lehenga choli fashion is not hide. Actresses wear fashion lehngas latest fashion lehengas, which

Today, most of the brides chose to wear a designer

are designed by top famous designers. The chaniya

Bridal Lehanga in colors of pink, red and maroon on

choli fashion, wedding lehenga fashion also came from

their special day. This garment has undergone some

Bollywood. Embroidered lehenga is the traditional

transformation in terms of styles. The gamut of

wear of Indian women since ancient time. Popular

Lehanga Choli is very wide and ranges from

both among wanderers, tribals as well as royal people

Traditional cum Embroided Lehanga to Sahara,

of olden days, embroidered lehengas come in many

Garara and Lancha to specially designed Indian

different styles.

wedding Lehanga. Though we have witnessed

Feminine and graceful, the long skirt is decorated

innumerable changes in its styling and designing but

with embroidery and mirror work. The short, fitted

one thing is for sure that the fashion of Lehanga choli

choli is also in festive colors and has gorgeous

tradition will never fade.

embroidery. Wearing of custom lehengas at occasions is the latest fashion / trend.

TYPES OF FABRIC:

Fabrics are generally used to give the dress a cool and light weight feel. Fabrics like silk, khadi, brocade and

According to the information available from

chiffon are also used.

http://www.ghagra.org.in -Many types of fabrics are used in choli lehanga preparation. Some of the commonly used fabrics are crepe, georgette, net, satin

MODERN AND BOLLYWODD

and silk.

LEHENGA. A lehenga with choli and dupatta is also known as lehenga set. There are many lehenga sets, which are in

6


CREPE FABRIC

include veils, curtains, and fish nets this fabric is

Crepe, a thin fabric widely

used in Indian choli, woven originally in silk but now

widely used in fancy lehenga.

available in all major fibers. There are two kinds of

SATIN FABRICSatin is a traditional fabric

crepe. The hard - finished, typically dyed black and

utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a

used for mourning (which tends to retain the old

lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for

spelling crape), is made of hand - twisted silk yarn

evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of

and finished by a rather complex trade process after

satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe - back

weaving; the soft crepe include the Canton, or

satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin and antique

Oriental, weaves in plain or damask weaves. Their

satin.

crisped or wavy appearance results from the peculiar

SILK FABRICSilk is a luxurious and sensuous

arrangement of the weft, which is formed of yarn

fabric, one associated with wealth and success. During

from two different bobbins twisted together in

the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in

opposite directions or uses alternately a right - twisted

gold. Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and

and a left - twisted thread. Crepe fabric is used in

silk garments are prized for their versatility, wear

almost all garments like Indian ghagra choli, bridal

ability and comfort. Silk is the strongest natural fiber.

leenghas, sarees, fashion lehenga and salwar kameez.

Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the

GEORGETTE FABRICGeorgette is a thin

summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high

woven silk fabric often of crepe yarn and

absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk

construction. Georgette choli lehangas are famous in

retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and

Bollywood. It is - a sheer silk or rayon crepe of dull

shimmers with a luster all its own. It is the most

texture. A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk

common traditional women clothing being exported

or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a

by women.

crepe surface. End - uses include dresses and blouses.

NET FABRIC Net fabric is an open fabric,

Design and colour:There are ghagra choli of vivid

which is created by connecting the intersections in a

colour contrasts with traditional as well as modern

woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a

patterns. It is the embroidery and the shape that

mesh - like appearance that won't ravel. End - uses

makes all the difference to the ghagra choli and one can identify it with the occasion it is meant for. Indian

7


market has a wide collection of ghagra/lehenga cholis

ghagra choli's intricate designs create excitement

such as

amongst the fashion conscious women. Wearing of

Designer lehengas

lehenga is a fashion with lasting values and rich craftsmanship. It is so much in fashion that it is one of

Traditional ghagra cholis

the most favoured dress at beauty pageant contests at national as well as international level.

Embroidered lehengas

Hand worked lehengas

VARITIESAccording to the information available on the website www.nrigujarati.co.in .Chaniya Choli comes in

Indian bridal lehengas

different kinds of variety, including Ghagra, which has full length skirt, along with blouses and skirts

Even the lehengas are of different shapes such as

Straight cut lehengas

Fish tail lehengas

featuring Zari, Resham work, Zardozi, sequins and mirror work with precious stones. Designer versions of Chaniya Choli include different cuts in the skirt, including styles like straight or fish cut, mermaid cut,

full flair Chaniya, panelled cut or circular and A-

Mermaid lehengas

shape cuts.

Paneled lehngas

Kali ghagras lenghas

Circular lehengas

A-line lehngas

Interesting facts and comparisons A wide daily wear garment, Chaniya Choli can also be used for special occasions. In fact, it is regularly featured in Indian weddings and during festivals like Diwali.

Even today, a lot of local producers and designers use

Lehengas with full flair

natural colours to dye the outfit in hues like red, blue, The Indian Lehenga choli brings out the essence of

yellow and green.

feminism. Similar to the western skirt and blouse, the

8


Mirror Work is most common in daily wear Chaniya

Satin

Choli.

Brocade Chiffon

1.

Lehenga/Ghagra Choli

2.

Chaniya Choli

The most famous traditional dress of India is lehenga Chaniya choli is another form or say another name of

choli or ghagra choli. The Indian lehenga cholis with

ghagra choli. The home of the chaniya choli is no

their glittering mirror work very attractive. The

doubt Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan. The outfit is

lehenga choli or ghagra choli is extremely colourful

popular in the west and north of India. In the south,

and attractive. The Indian lehenga choli/ghagra choli

another more streamlined version known as the

is usually worn with the 'dupatta' to cover the head

'pavade' is popular. There is a tremendous boost to

and the chest. In India, lehenga choli is also known as

the chaniya choli in recent time as a fashion garment

lehenga or ghagra chunni or chunri, ghagra chunari,

expecially in weddings. Fabric in Chaniya Choli

ghagra chunaris and sometimes Lachcha choli.

Fabrics that are used for chaniya cholis normally

Wearing of this traditional dress at formal occasions

range from cotton, silk to khadi and at times chiffon,

is the latest trend. There is a tremendous boost to the

organza, satin cotton, raw silk and brocade. But the

ghagra choli in recent time as a fashion gaments.

last variety is only for weddings and formal occasions.

Lehenga is a typical feminine silhouette that

The creation of a chaniya choli takes a couple of

epitomizes style, craftsmanship, quality and class of

weeks to create as the fabrics are embroidered in

Indian clothing.

Gujarat, Kutch and Rajasthan and sent to different craftsmen after which they are stitched into garments. Three parts of Chaniya Cholis.

Fabric in Indian Lehenga

Silk

Georgette

Crepe

In Maharashtra brides wear a Paithani sari, terrific

Net

Lehnga and shawl with its gold brocade border woven intricately with birds, flowers and geometrical

9


patterns. Other woven saris from this region, such as Chanderis, Indoris, and Maheshwaris also form part Traditional Ghagra choli:The traditional dress for of the trousseau with yellows, orange and greens being women in Rajasthan and Gujarat is the lehenga choli the dominant colors. or ghagra choli but can be seen all over the country. The ensemble of the Muslim bride from Hydria is the

These cholis are brightly embroidered, waist- length

zari-encrusted blouse with a lehenga. The veil

bare - backed blouses. Indian ghagra cholis, lehengas

(dupatta) is edged with gold tassels and embroidered

are gathered ankle - length skirts secured around the

all over. Tissues and brocades are used in abundance.

waist. The attire is completed by a veil - cloth called odhni or dupatta draped across the neck or over the

Wearing of bridal ghagra choli is a fashion with head. The Indian lehenga choli is one of the most lasting values and rich craftsmanship. colorful Indian clothing, adding verve and color to the surrounding landscapes. Tribal women in these area bedeck themselves from head to toe with chunky Party Wear Ghagra choli: Ghagra choli or Lehenga

silver jeweler

choli is the most preferred party wear of young people. Most of the important guests in weddings will

The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel

be in a ghagra choli. The ghagra choli is worn to mark

worn during festivals, weddings or special events in

important occasions and festivals. The Indian ghagra

India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact

choli can be worn at main occasions like mehendi,

that it is available in a number of fabrics with many

dandiya / sangeet, the wedding ceremony and the

different decorative choices.[10] Traditionally the sari

reception. Outfits for women such as the 'Indian

and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments

Ghagra or Lehenga - choli' brings out the essence of

for the bride in India.[11] But it is a common bridal

feminism.Embroidered Indian ghagra choli is quite

attire mostly in North India and is also the traditional

famous round the globe. It is one of the oldest form of

wear of Garba festival in Gujarat.

Indian clothing.

CH. 2

The young generation has evolved the traditional choli to strap less blouse, spaghetti top and tube top.

10


their identity as a group and take a pride in the fact that their ‘stiches outlive the cloth on which they are

EMBROIDERY

USED

IN

sewn’.

CHANIYA(CHOLI) [Gujarat]:

MUTWA EMBROIDERY-

According to the tourism corporation of Gujarat limited -there are 18 types of hand embroidery bring culture and identity to the colorful silken thread which kutchi women use to decorate fabrics and traditional dress. Villages: Dhordo, Kuran, Vayor, 2.2

Guneri, Dholavira, and Sumrasar. available

JAT EMBROIDERY-

at:

http://threadsthroughindia.wordpress.com/page/2/ In Muslim communities within the Banni region of kutch,

where

embroidery

is

women

observe

purdah,

most

common.

This

Mutwa craft

is

distinguished by its highly intricate work with tiny mirrors; a very fastidious and labour intensive.

CH. 3

2.1 available at:;http://www.equalcraft.com/shop/B004BW71ZA/Ta ble-Runner-with-Hand-Stitched-Jat-Embroidery-and-

SODHA RAJPUT –

Beadwork-Red Extremly

labour

intensive,

the

power

of

The evolution of Rajasthani Skirts

jat

embroidery comes from the closely stitched patterns that cover the entire cloth. Jats are very conscious of

11


available at:http://harekrsnascreations.blogspot.in When the sodhas migrated from Sindh between 200-500 years ago, they brought with them a whole they came in contact with. The predominant style of embroidery is referred to as pakko embroidery but sodha rajputs also utilize stitches such as neran, kharek,.

3.1 According to the information given on the website

these has to be that they all are encompassing

costumerguide.com the origin having to do with a

everywhere over the designing and elegance. Every

lehenga choli can be traced back to explore medieval a

fiance-to-be aspires to educate yourself regarding be on

number of years and for instance before all around the

the lookout slightly like an all in one queen size on he or

India. It you can use to ensure they are the royal attire

she wedding day and what lots of other way to explore

about going to be the queens and princesses. From

have to worry about element than stepping into an all in

typical decide what to wear having to do with royalty for

one clothier lehenga choli all of which transforms all

more information regarding an all in one customary get

your family members into a living princess having to do

dressed because they are worn all around the special

with the bygone era. When we talk about this ethnical

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with your context. Since Rajasthan has been new ones

years. Today, wearing a multi-function lehenga has

for additional details on going to be the great Rajputana

become very ceremonial rrn no way choices too the

tradition and people considering the fact that a short

fiance but take heart also on the basis of the just minutes

time immemorial,a typical pattern relating to Rajasthani

relatives on going to be the family. A fashion designer

lehenga choli became an all in one craze so that you have

lehenga choli is most likely the progressed significantly

some time This pattern has old and exquisite hand work

form concerning this a widely used get dressed all of

all around the going to be the coloring highlights which

12


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bulky sac longchamps. Such was the grandeur having to

Legend has a resource box that going to be the royal

do with this wilderness state about India that many a lot

ladies relating to Rajasthan you can use for more

of women having said all that precisely what it takes this

information on wear any one of these heavy lehengas

old preferences of an all in one Rajastahni Lehenga choli

that their maid servants had to carry them along as they

everywhere over the their wedding day longchamp sac.

walked. There which they can display to ensure they are

When actress Raveena Tandon arranged to learn more

real gold and diamond have the desired effect

about marry in an all in one royal design and style

everywhere in the their outfits which made them and so

lindsay decide

d a multi function Rajasthani Lehenga Choli

going to be the seasonal spirit having to do

and Udaipur as the puppy wedding

with the people Then there are also patch

destination. Though intricate brocade,

works, kalamkari, ikat have the desired effect

linen,marketing campaign and chiffon are

and a great many other hand embroidered

preferred fabrics enchanting making this

chaniya cholis worn by going to be the young

dress; there are lot of kinds to do with

ladies completely the festivals.Whichever

affordable versions also available as part of

occasion all your family members and you'll

your name having to do with an all in one

have opt to learn more about wear it; a

cotton lehenga choli. These kinds are more

clothier lehenga choli has definitely made its

often than not worn all over dandia festivals

mark do not choices upon India but also

all around the Gujarat and Rajasthan. Every

throughout the going to be the international

year will see newer improvements and recent

platform. With a lot more and a good deal

styles upon cotton lehenga choli being that

more designers trying their hand all around

they are gone to live in for this occasion.

the this garment,they need to purchase

These are available everywhere over the

element online has also become you can

bandhini preferences all of which is the fact

possibly imagine regarding late. Many

also basically called as the art concerning

websites bring going to be the mystic and charm relating to this decide what to wear all

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add charm to educate yourself regarding

13


replacement providing some one their

and flowers. Handmade Ghagras are classic.

interpersonal wear available on the internet on the web and stores. Rajrang ugg boots uk.com is the fact that a minumum of one any

Present Day Scenario

of these loving So yearly a short time when all

ITC PILANI (2012) described the graceful and

your family members opt for to educate

intricate work on the Ghagra is done by hand. The

yourself regarding add another some form of

fabric is cut into panels and stitched according to

to your kitty, dont forget the available on the

the style, the motifs, embellishment. Materials like

internet option on the store.

georgette, net and crepe are popular today. It takes least 20 days to get a Ghagra stitched

Origin and history

The term ‘Rajasthani Ghagra’ evokes images of Author TOM TIERNER history of Ghagra goes

bright swirling colours in the desert radiant with

back to the 5th or 6th century A.D. Garments

mirrors, with the background of decorated camels,

similar to the Ghagra can be seen in Buddhist

the valour and hospitality of Rajputs, and the art

sculptures and paintings dating from the Kushana

and crafts of Rajasthan.

or early Gupta period – the archetype of the

The Rajasthani Ghagra is a kind of pleated skirt

modern Ghagra.

that is long and embroidered and worn as the lower

The origin of the Ghagra can be traced back to the

portion of a Ghagra kanchli or Choli (blouse). It is

courts in the Mughal era, showcasing Indian

tied around the waist and held by a drawstring. The

culture and arts. The length of the Ghagra which Ghagra evolved from Bhainivasani, which has earlier skimmed the floor has been shortened to

its

grace the ankles. A favourite for all kinds of formal

roots in the Antariya.

and religious occasions, the Ghagra’s Choli or

This traditional clothing of Ghagra and Choli is

blouse has detailed patch work. This in turn is

worn by women in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya

designed with beads, fancy stitches, shells, and

Pradesh, Bihar, Harayana, Himachal Pradesh,

sequins, the motifs commonly used are of birds,

Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand. The fabrics used

animals

for a Ghagra are cotton, silk, khadi, georgette,

14


crepe, net, satin, brocade and chiffon. Silk and cotton are the favoured materials.

Variations The ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the same length as original antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns in India. In Andhra Pradesh it is called as Langa and part of 3.3 available at

the dress Langa Voni.

www.pinterest.com/fionascreations/mirrorwor k.htm

Until early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes showed martial status of women as both married and unmarried women observed Ghoonghat. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely undecorated but were decorated with gota strips along the border on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were Indigo, Lac and Haldi. This style can still be seen in rural areas of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk festivals. Ancient unstitched form of gagra has survived in 3.2

folk theater costumes across India, particularly in

Available at

Kathakali of Kerala, where layers of pleated khadi

www.images.google.com/rajasthanilehengas.c

fabric are laid over a nada and tied around the

om/modern/jabongg

waist creating layers of flared skirt. This reflects

15


simplistic early style of unstitched gagras worn in

auspiciousness, plenty and prosperity…It is one of

ancient times.

the most favourite colours of choice, singly or in combination with hot pink and bright red, for women’s veils and men’s turbans… Above all, Kesar is the colour of the native Rajasthani’s love and longing for her/his lover… embodied as the Kesariya… According to the information available from the website www.utsavfashion.in arid desert region of vast distances, men of all communities – other than agriculturists – have traditionally, for thousands of years, been compelled to migrate far from home in search of livelihood or fortune… whether as merchants, warriors, herdsmen or artisans. Given 3.4

the tradition of early betrothal and marriage, the

available at

experience of loneliness and separation came early

www.wikipedia.com/variationslehenga.colours

in the lives of men and women here (Rajasthan’s

/drapesrajasthan

notorious institution of child marriage, and the resulting maternal and infant death statistics,

Significane of colours used in

continue to reflect some of the negative outcomes of this social practice).

rajasthani skirts RADHIKAS BLOG (2010) proposed that Kesar colour in Rajasthan has several connotations. It is saffron, the most delectable of spices…It is the colour of fragrant, sublime sandalwood…Kesar reflects the golden sand dunes of the region…It symbolizes the aspiration of the people for

3.5

16


available at

where they were decorated elaborately without any

www.wordpress.com/tag/significanecolours-

limitation. The female ghagras were very short

rajasthan.htm

displaying the exquisite leg ornaments, and they are even now displayed in the paintings. But now as the

“Kesariya baalam, aawo ni,

parda system is becoming out dated, the rajasthani

Padhaaro maaro des…

women’s clothes are seeing a lot of transformation.

Sraavan aavan kaha gayo,

The length of the ghagras has been increased to

Kar gayo kol anek,

hide the legs and feet. Now days the Rajput ghagra

Ginta ginta ghis gayee,

trails all over the ground making the women appear

Maaree aangaliya ri rekh” , Kesariya…”

more beautiful and lavish. There are some women

ANAM (2011) proposed that one of the most

that work in field. They wear ghagras which reach

significant factors which ascertain the variations in

10cm of length, above their ankles. Many times they

attire of women in Rajasthan is her marital status.

even wear ankle and leg bracelets which are worn

Extremely rich fabrics, heavy ornaments and bright

not only for the adornment but also for protecting

colors which are linked to marriage and fertility

the women against bites and brambles when they

reflect her status. Speaking of sharp contrast, the

walk down the fields.

dull, white and light colors which are devoid of

is worn by the Rajasthan females and is long skirts

embellishments reflect the widow status of any

that touch the ankle. These have narrow waist while

women. There are number of variations in color, cut

flare at the base. not like the normal skirts, the

and style along with embellishments which very

fabric at the end of the skirts is not folded but is a

transparently reflect the assorted communities in

wide colored cloth which is called sinjaf that is

Rajasthan.

sewen with an intention to make it strong. Ghagra’s

The attires of females in Rajasthan indicate their

width and no. of pleats is meant to be display the

social status too. Like the Rajput females that

wealth of the wearer. Just like the pagari, this

belong to the affluent social order mainly follow the

ghagra is available in different colors, prints and

parda system. Here the women was restricted in her

styles.

movement and was not allowed to show off much. Their attires were kept in private women quarter

17


delivery to any destination in the world.

• •

FESTIVAL LEHENGA CHOLI : Festivals and fairs have always been a part of India and will stay so forever to add to India's colour and integrity. Take a look at fairs and festivals of this country in order to become a part of the same.

3.6

India is a land of festivals and fairs. Every festival

available at www.images.utsavfashion.bogspot-

has some or the other traditional or religious

rajasthan

importance. Every day of the year there is a festival celebrated in some part of the country. Some festivals welcome the seasons of the year, the

Lehengas in general and their

harvest, the rains, or the full moon. Others

religious significance

celebrate religious occasions, the birtlink birthdays of divine beings, Saints, and gurus (the revered

From the period of Lord Krishna, the gopis

teachers), or the advent of the new year. A number

have been known to be wearing lehenga

of these festivals are common to most parts of India,

choli or ghagra choli during raaslila.

however, they may be called by different names in

Wearing Lehenga choli is in Indian culture from

ancient.

Indian

ghagra

the various parts of the country or may be

choli&

celebrated in a different fashion. Every festival is

increase the beauty of women. Lehenga in

celebrated in a unique style. Indian ethnic lehenga

red color looks really very nice lal ghagra is

garments have special significance in accordance

example of this fact. These are the some

with colors, fabrics and festivals.

significance that in Indian wedding bride wear bridal choli lehenga.

•

Baisakhi is the harvest festival of the

Utsav Fashion is the best bridal choli

Punjab and is celebrated with dances and gaiety.

lehenga shop with more than 5000 latest

The solar new year's day is observed on this day

designs of lehengas for wedding, indian

throughout northern India. For Hindus, it is

ghagra choli, ghagra lal red, wedding

significant of the days of the descent of the Ganges

chaniya cholis and is known for express

to the earth, and people take holy dips in rivers.

18


The Sikhs attach religious significance to day, as it

People try to break this pot by forming pyramides.

is day of the formation of the Singh, who converted

It is also commonly known as 'DAHI HANDI".

the Sikhs into a martial race. On this day in 1699, Guru Gobind Singh organized the Sikhs into the 'Khalsa'. In Punjab, farmers start their harvesting operations on this day with great fanfare. women in traditional lehengas use to dance at this festival in some of the parts of northern India.

•

Id - ul - Fitr or Ramazan Id is a day of feasting and rejoicing as it marks the end of the end of Ramazan (Ramadan), the Muslim time of fasting.

3.7

On the day of Id Muslim women and girls wear

available at

lehenga cholis or lal gaghra and celebrate this

www.mapsofindia.com/rajasthan/people

festival. Janamashtami The birth of lord Krishna, the eighth incarnation on earth of Lord

Available at www.pinterest.com/discovered india

Vishnu, is celebrated throughout India. Devotees celebrate it by fasting and prayers, which is followed by feasting and merriment. The temples remain open throughout the night and birth of lord Krishna is celebrated at midnight. Scenes of lord Krishna's childhood are enacted in Matura and Vrindavan.On the next morning Nand Utsav is celebrated. people distribute prasad and dance with joy. Women of Matura wear lehengas and dance. Earthern pots filled with butter, favourite of lord krishna are tied to several places at certain heights.

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3.8

embedded in the Rajput culture and style which

Innovations and modern take on the age

always showed in her colorful dupattas or her

old rajasthani lehengas

elaborate lehengas. For the most part Jodha always covered her head with the pallu of her dupatta,

The portrait shown in THE EVOLUTION OF

while on the other hand she only went bare headed

LEHENGA and the costumes worn by Jodha before

when she was in her palace room, or basically

entering the limelight, traces its roots and

indoors. Another symbol of her Rajput roots was

emergence way back to the Mughal Period which

her way of adorning herself, which was with a red

was truly patronized by the historic legend

bindi, which also further showcased her sense of

‘Jodhabai’. These royal costumes were inspired by

tradition.

the Mughal style of clothing which also had innovative slices of the Rajput style of designs and embroideries in it. The fabrics used for the

Influences over the years

costumes were originally manufactured and woven in Rajasthan. The grandness of these costumes was given the essence of reality by the artisans who

Recently, the biggest block buster in Bollywood,

intricately wove exquisite styles of embroidery,

Jodha-Akbar’, which was directed and produced by

motifs and embellishments on the finest forms of

Ashutosh Gowariker saw a resurgence in the

Silk and Cotton, during the golden era of the

timeless classic tale. Jodha which was played by

Mughal dynasty.

Aishwarya Rai was given the same regal

Fabrics like silk, cotton and brocade were stitched

representation as she had been in history books.

along with intricate embroideries of Kundan,

One of India’s most talented fashion designers,

crystal stones and Zardozi. Based on historical facts

Neeta Lulla designed the costumes for both Jodha

and figures, Jodha wore ornate jewelry and

and Akbar and tastefully designed each outfit,

lehengas along with dupattas that had rich colors

keeping the traditions and historical roots in mind.

and heavy borders. Large neck pieces and earrings,

Heavily embroidered dupattas in light colors of

and a large nose ring, also called a ‘bali’ was used to

yellow, orange and green, along with flowy lehengas

adorn her flawless beauty. She may have married

and jewelry that showcased a typical Rajasthani

the greatest Mughal ruler, but her roots were deeply

style were all used to portray the queen’s elegance

20


and majestic charm. Such style became a hit with weddings all over India, since every bride wanted to look like Jodha. The regional Rajasthani charm and the vintage style of saris and lehengas came back into fashion and in a huge way!

Innovations Information available from the website www.utsavfashion.in , colored stones which previously studded all royal costumes, especially the Jodha costume, are now innovatively replaced by semi precious stones and shimmering metallic threads of silver and gold. More of block prints and bandhani patterns are weaved into the royal fabrics which have taken fashion onto a different level altogether. Ethnic saris and ghagra cholis are being embroidered with the designs and patterns of the Jodha costume, thus aiming at retaining the originality. Skirts and lehengas are now traditionally woven with the same fabric and textures.

CH.4 Men’s Skirt (lungi)

Significance of lungi‌. 21


According to fullstopindia.com….

Types of Lungi

What is a Lungi?

A lungi is a casual version of the popular bottom dress in South India. It’s easily identifiable due to the colorful floral or windowpane patterns of

Looking like a cross between a bed sheet and a

fabric. Pronounced “loon” + “gey”, lungis come one towel, lungis are a garment worn around the waist. size fits all for adults with a slightly smaller cut for The fit and style of a well tied lungi is similar to a children. Cotton is the most common fabric used as sarong skirt. This casual dress is a part of daily life it breaths well, is abundant within India, and it is a for all classes of Indians, specifically the working tremendously versatile cloth for dying. class who prefer the ease of movement as well as There are two preferred ways of producing a lungi: natural cooling effect which comes from an open open and stitched. An open lungi is simply a piece of bottom. fabric which is then folded and tied to the wearer’s Some states in North India such as Bihar, Orissa preference. A stitched version has both open ends and Pashim Banga (West Bengal) also have adapted joined together and stitched to form a tube. No this favored dress. However, it’s uncommon to see matter what the color and design of the lungi, there females wearing the lungi as one travels outside is always a thin line or stripe running horizontally Kerala. at the top and bottom of the fabric. A lungi in plain white is called a mundu. This version is reserved for special occasions such as weddings or important festivals. Silk is sometimes used in place of cotton; and gold embroidery is used in place of the simple stripe.

4.1

available at www.en.wikipedia.org/lungi

22


Design According to information available on Wikipedia/lungi… Unlike dhotis, which are linear like sheets, lungis are sewn into a tube shape like a skirt. They are especially worn in hot regions. There are also cheaper "open" lungis, in identical dimensions but not sewn into a tube shape. The standard adult

4.2

lungi is 115 cm in height and 200 cm in length,

Available at www.images.google.com/lungi-comfort

when open. Children's lungis are available in approximately 2/3 of this size. They are normally

Comfort in lungi….

woven from cotton and come in a variety of designs and colors. Silk lungis are available for ceremonial purposes such as weddings. The most common

How to Tie a Lungi?

styles are either solid-colored or plaid, reflecting the relative ease and cost-effectiveness of producing The way and kind of a lungi is worn is very much

these patterns on a power loom. Blue is particularly

indicative of the status, age, occupation, region and

popular, since it fades to pleasant tones in contrast

religion of the man or woman. For example, in

to other colors. Regardless of the design or color,

Tamil Nadu the lungi is tied to the left while

lungis are often lined at the top and bottom with a

Keralites tie lungis on the right side. Muslims tie a

black/white stripe containing reinforced weaving to

lungi to the left. To understand all the various

prevent fraying.

respective ways in which Indians wear a lungi is nearly impossible.

Usage

Here are some videos in relation to comfort…. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAY8eA48Nbw

Depending on local tradition, lungis can be worn by

Origin of lungi…

men and/or women. They are tied or fastened in

23


various ways, and can be used in different cultural

the groom in a Bangladeshi wedding. The typical

activities, ranging from normal daily life to

Bangladeshi lungi is a seamless tubular shape, as

elaborate wedding ceremonies. For daily purposes,

opposed to the single sheet worn in other parts of

a simple "double twist" knot is most popular, where

South and Southeast Asia. In Bangladesh, the lungi

two points in the upper edge of lungi are brought

industry is concentrated in Sirajganj, Kustia, and

together and twisted around twice, with the ends

Khulna. Bangladeshi women do not traditionally

tucked in at the waist. However, it is also common

wear lungis, although non-Bengali tribal women do

for wearers to simply tie a double "pretzel knot"

wear similar garments in some parts of

from 2 points on the upper border, which produces

southeastern Bangladesh.

a more secure knot. The lungi's length can also be

In April 2013, the Baridhara Housing Society—a

adjusted, for example, by tucking in the lungi at the

housing society in Dhaka—banned lungi, and began

waist to make it resemble a short skirt.

refusing entry to those who wore them. However, many opposed the ban, taking to social media sites such as Facebook and Twitter to criticise the decision. A march took place on 13 April to oppose

Regional Importance

the ban.

Bangladesh

Meanwhile, U.S Ambassador Dan W. Mozina has been seen wearing a lungi in front of his house.

Bangladeshi actor Zubair Hasan from Sydney, Australia wearing a traditional lungi and holding

India

up a colorful lungi. The lungi (Bengali: লুঙ্গি /ঙ /luŋɡi/) is the most

A lungi clad Oriya man in Baleswar, Odisha

commonly seen dress of Bangladeshi men, although

In India, the customs behind wearing lungis vary by

it is not normally worn for formal occasions. In

state.

Bangladesh, lungis are worn by men, almost

In Kerala, the lungi is generally colourful and

universally indoors and commonly outdoors as well.

available in various designs, and it is worn by both

Elaborately designed tartan cotton, batik, or silk

men and women. Physical laborers typically use it

lungis are also often presented as wedding gifts to

as a working dress. A Kerala dhoti is plain white

24


and known as mundu, and it often bears golden

Navayath Muslim men from Bhatkal and

embroidery (known as "kasavu"), especially at the

surrounding areas of coastal Karnataka, wear this

border; it is worn as formal attire and on

garment as a common attire, and it is worn slightly

ceremonial occasions like weddings, festivals, etc.

differently from other states as it is stitched in the

Saffron-coloured mundus are known as kaavi

middle.

munde. The men sometimes tuck up their mundus

In Punjab (both Pakistani and Indian portions),

(Kerala dhoti) or lungis with the bottom of the

lungis are worn by both men and women. The male

garment being pulled up and tied back on to the

lungi is also called a tehmat,[2][3] while the female

waist. This would mean that the mundu (Kerala

lungi is called a laacha. They are part of traditional

dhoti) or lungi only covers the body from the waist

dance attire in Bhangra dance groups, but are also

to the knees.

popular in rural areas as home wear. They are

In Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, only men wear

generally tied in a different way than in other parts

this garment, and it is worn slightly differently

of India and are, as a rule, unstitched and very

from men in Kerala; Keralites tie the mundu to the

colourful. Wearing the lungi has declined in the

right side, while the Tamilians tie it to their left.

Punjab region in recent years.

However, there are exceptions and some of the Muslim communities in Kerala also tie the mundu

In Odisha, and West Bengal the lungi is primarily

to their left. It is also known as "Kaili" or

worn at home by males of all classes of society.

"Saaram/Chaaram" in South Tamil Nadu. The

Hindu men generally avoid wearing lungis on the

Muslims of Tamil Nadu are found to favor white-

street.

colored lungis for formal occasions.

In Odisha, Sambalpuri with the Sambalpuri

In Karnataka it is customary for village residents to

pattern and mule based lungis from Khordha are

wear the lungi at all times and for all occasions. The

available in addition to normal cotton fabric lungis.

garment is always worn for marriages; the bride

In Bihar and Haryana the lungi is considered a

and groom fathers and the groom himself wear

night garment for men.

white panche. If a family can afford it, they typically choose a pure silk panche for the marriage ceremony.

25


Suggestions:Designs of skirts differs on style, types and shapes. Nowadays people want to change and modify old ways of wearing skirts. People are not stuck in same taste, they want old bright and heavy skirts to be simplified into dull and light colours so that they wear it on daily basis. They say that all kinds of skirts should include dividers to make them comfortable. Skirts should be transformed and made long with slit to make them handy and easy to carry. They should be light weight made with fine fabric.

26


of skirts. The limitations we faced was because not much research has been done and all the information there is, is with the handicraft workers in villages who don’t have a platform to share their knowledge.

LimitationsOur main topic was Indian skirts, it was very difficult to find information online, only online stores poped-up when we tried to research. There was very little reliable information available because most of the sites consisted of personal opinions and no in-depth information available about Indian skirts especially. Even in libraries it was hard to find any books , the books on skirts were mainly about the pattern and the various techniques of skirt making. We also tried finding information in the college library but there were no books on the types 27


BIBLIOGRAPHY Anam(2009)Rajasthan Textiles. Available at: http://www.rajasthantextiles.com/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pathak Sujay, Parelkal Ruchita(2014)’My Wedding Planning’, Available at: http:// www.myweddingplanning.in › Indian Wedding Blog › Bridal couture[Accessed on 25 September 2014] Tierney Tom(2003)Fashions From India. Dover Publications. Radhika(2010)’Significance of colour in Rajasthan Culture’,2 September. Available at: https://rr2606.wordpress.com/tag/significance-of-colour-in-rajasthan-culture/ [Accessed 25 September 2014] Pilani(2012). Women’s costume in Rajasthan. Available at: http://www.discoveredindia.com/rajasthan/culture-inrajasthan/costumes-in-rajasthan/women's-costumes-in-rajasthan.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsav Fashion(2014). Utsav Fashion. Available At: http://www.utsavfashion.in/lehenga/lehengasignificance.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Maps of India(2011). Rajasthan Dresses. Available at: http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_jodhaa.shtml [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Lungi. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungi [Accessed 25 September 2014]

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Full Stop India(2013). Lungi, the dress of South India. Available at: http://www.fullstopindia.com/lungi-the-dress-ofsouth-india [Accessed 25 September 2014] Damyanti(2008). Typical skirts: History and Conception. Available at: http://www.lifeinitaly.com/fashion/skirthistory.asp [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Costumes(2010). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://indiancostumes.indianetzone.com/1/chaniya_choli.htm [Accessed 25 September 2014] Utsavpedia(2014). Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/chaniya-choli-the-desert-rose/ [Accessed 25 September 2014 Slideshare(2013). The difference between Lehenga choli and Chaniya Choli. Available at: http://www.slideshare.net/fashionkafatka01/the-difference-between-lehenga-choli-and-chaniya-choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indian Wear(2013). The beautiful dresses of India. Available at: http://indianwear.in/ghagra_choli.html [Accessed 25 September 2014] Wikipedia(2013). Ghagra Choli. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gagra_choli [Accessed 25 September 2014] Indobase(2014). Lehenga History. Available at: http://www.indobase.com/fashion/women-fashion/apparels/ethnicwear/lehenga-choli/lehenga-history.html [Accessed 25 September 2014]

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