Anekal Silk Weavers by Sakshi Kumari

CRAFT CLUSTER

Research Methodology 2016-2017

THE SILK WEAVERS:

ANEKAL

Submitted by: Sakshi Kumari

SI no.

CONTENTS

Acknowledgement

Anekal silk industry: An overview •Objectives •Study methodology implemented •Scope of study

Karnataka •Demographics •Area •Elevation •Population •Literacy •Religion •Flora and fauna •Rainfall and climate •Life style •Language •Costumes •Festivals

Bangalore •Location and demographics •Language and religion •Climate •Flora and fauna

KHDC

Anekal •Location •History •Geography •Weather comdition •Demographics •Roadmap from NIFT to Anekal •Education •Location of silk industry •Flora and fauna

Spiritual beliefs •Religion •Gods they worship •Festivals •Superstitious beliefs •Lifestyle •Food •Costume •Language •Festivals •Facilities available •Means of entertainment

SI no.

CONTENTS

Micro level analysis •Religion •Gods they worship •Festivals •Superstitious beliefs •Lifestyle •Food •Costmes •Facilities available •Means of entertainment •Economy •Raw materials

Raw materials

10.

Silk production •Sericulture •Hatching of the eggs •The feeding period •Spinning the cocoon •Reeling the filament

11.

Tools

12.

Process •Reeling •Dying •Warping •Spinning •Weaving process •Packaging and marketing •Quality check

13.

Motifs

14.

SWOT Analysis

15.

Problem Statement and Solution

16.

Questionaire

17.

Bibliography

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I would like express our special thanks of gratitude to the management of National institute of fashion technology, Bengaluru for giving us an opportunity to take up the silk weaving craft of Anekal. I, would also like to thank our project guide Ms.Vibhawari for being a constant support, and for her guidance and encouragement at each stage during the cluster program throughout the entire project. And the entire silk weaving cluster’s each individual unit member who have given us their great support during the cluster program. Without their involvement and assistance it would have been difficult for us to understand the background of the cluster& their present status.

Anekal silk industry: An overview

OBJECTIVE The diagnostic study of the Silk Craft Cluster, Anekal has been undertaken keeping in view about the following objectives: – – – – – –

Understanding the lifestyle of the weavers Identifying the socio-economic condition of the cluster. Outlining the present business environment. Identifying the problems faced by the cluster in terms of Technology , Human resources , Trade, Processes,Skills . Suggesting solutions to the problems . Identifying the infrastructural and financial support required for overall development

STUDY METHODS IMPLEMENTED Both primary and secondary data have been used and analysed in the study. – – –

Primary data has been collected using interactions , observations and interviews with concerned weavers The secondary data have been collected from internet. Analysis of data and information helped us to study the present scenario and identify the problems and existing gaps.

SCOPE OF STUDY The study helped to get basic information about the cluster including exact location (route mapping), age of the cluster, cluster product , existing Technologies and methods, present Workstation. The demography of the cluster was also accessed and different areas like marketing, infrastructure, finance etc.

KARNATAKA DEMOGRAPHICS : Karnataka is located in south west of India surrounded by Goa ,Tamilnadu, Andhra Pradesh and Telengana, Kerala on all sides. It was formed on 1 November 1956. Originally known as the State of Mysore, it was renamed Karnataka in 1973. The capital and largest city is Bengaluru. The official language is Kannada. AREA : Karnataka is spread across an area of 191,791 square km. It accounts for 5.83 percent of the total area of the country (i.e 32.88 lakh sq. km). Area-wise Karnataka is the seventh largest state in India. ELEVATION : Highest elevation 1,925 m (6,316 ft) Lowest elevation 0 m (0 ft)

POPULATION : The total population of Karnataka is 6.25 crores, of this 50.9% are male and 49.1% are female (2011 census). The Population density is 319 per km², the sex ratio is 973 females to 1000 males and 38.67% of the people in Karnataka live in urban areas.

LITERACY : The literacy rate is 75.4% (as per the 2011 census). Male literacy rate is 82.85% while female literacy rate is 68.03% .

RELIGION : The division of people on the basis of religion can be seen as Hindus

83%

Muslim

12.2%

Christian

3.1%

Others

1.7%

FLORA AND FAUNA : Karnataka has a rich diversity of flora and fauna. It has a recorded forest area of 38,720 km2 (14,950 sq. mi) which constitutes 20.19% of the total geographical area of the state. These forests support 25% of the elephant and 10% of the tiger population of India. Karnataka has five national parks: Anshi, Bandipur, Bannerghatta, Kudremukh and Nagarhole and 27 wildlife sanctuaries of which seven are bird sanctuaries.

RAINFALL AND CLIMATE : The southwest monsoon accounts for almost 80% of the rainfall that the state receives. The annual rainfall across the state ranges from low 50 cm to 350 cm. The average high temperature during summer is 34 degrees Celsius across the state. The average day temperature is 29 degrees Celsius in the monsoon season. During winter temperatures range from 32 degrees Celsius to below 20 degrees Celsius. Karnataka experiences climatic variations that range from arid to semi-arid in the plateau region, sub-humid to humid tropical in the Western Ghats and humid tropical monsoon in the coastal plains. · Coastal Karnataka: 3456mm · North Interior Karnataka: 731mm · South Interior Karnataka: 1126mm

LIFE STYLE : Karnataka comprises of the people of a varied mix of ethnicity, culture, religious and race. The amicable population of Karnataka lives in perfect harmony and mutual contact with their neighbors and inmates. Malayalis, Tamils, Marathis and people from Andhra Pradesh and all over the country have co-existed in mutual harmony with the endemic people of the land for centuries. LANGUAGES : – Kannada-66.26 – Urdu-10.54 – Telugu-10.73 – Tamil-3.57 – Marathi-3.6 – Tulu-3.0 – Hindi-2.56 – Konkani-1.46 – Malayalam-1.33 – Kodava takk-0.3 COSTUMES : The dress of Karnataka is very similar to the pattern of other states of South India. Known for their grace, convenience and decency which is an integral part of their culture, the men can be found in shirts or kurtas along with a lungi on the upper and lower body respectively. The women are seen in Sarees, the traditional dress of women. Saree is worn in the characteristic nivi style of southern India with pleats in the front and sometime passed on to the rear to facilitate movement. However, this can differentiate as per the norms of a particular region. FESTIVALS : Some of the important festivals of Karnataka are: – Ugadi – Dussera – KarHunnive – Shravan Mondays – Nagarpanchami – GowriHunnive – ShigiHunnive – Navaratri,

BANGALORE LOCATION AND DEMOGRAPHICS : Bangalore is located at 120580N 770340E, 900m(3000 ft) above sea level. Its urban area is 709km2(274 sq m) with population of 8.42 million in the city. It is the 5th most populous city in India. The ratio of male and female is 908 women for every 1000 men. LANGUAGE AND RELIGION : The official language of Bangalore is “Kannada”, other languages spoken here are English, Tamil, Telugu, Urdu, Malayalam and Hindi. Major communities are Kannadigas, Tamilians and Telugus. There are different religion followed in Bangalore but majorly Hinduism with 79.4%, while others are Islam with 13.4%, Christianity with 5.8%, Jainism with 1.1% and others with 1%. CLIMATE : The highest temperature in the city is 39.20C and the lowest is 7.80C. Annually rain occurs till 970mm, and the heaviest rainfall recorded in 24 hour period was 159.7 mm (1st October 1997). FLORA AND FAUNA : There are two botanical gardens – Cubbon park and Lal bagh. Majority of trees in the city is big to medium and canopy trees with girths above 40cm. There is a Bangalore zoo, where one can find all types of reptiles.

KHDC: Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation

The Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation (KHDC) , established in the year 1975, are the prominent manufacturers and exporters of a wide range of premium quality of Handloom Products. The product range offered by them consists of Traditional Silk Sarees, Fancy printed Silk sarees and Discharge printed Silk Sarees. In compliance with the demands and the specifications provided by the customers , these Handloom products are highly appreciated among their consumers.

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Nature of Business - Manufacturer Additional Business - Exporter and Trader Registered Address - Priyadarshini Commercial Complex No.1, Tank Road, Next to Me G Centre, Ulsoor , Bangalore - 560042, Karnataka, India. Industry - Manufacturing and Trading of Silk Sarees. Total No. Of Employees - Upto 10 People Year of Establishment - 1975 Company CEO - Mohammad Mohsin Legal Status Of Firm - Public Ltd. Co. Registered under Indian Companies Act 2013 Promoter - Mr. Ravindranath

ATTIBELE: ANEKAL

LOCATION : Anekal is a major town of Bangalore Urban district in Karnataka which is approximately 32km away from Bangalore Centre and 15km from Hosur and Electronics city. Express lines that run from Silk Board to Anekal passing through the National Highway and SH broadway provide Anekal a excellent connectivity. It lies in the southern part of the Bangalore metropolitan area. Multiple industrial areas are there in Anekal, which contribute to major economic turnovers. HISTORY : Anekal in Kannada translates to 'Elephant rock'. The origin of the name is Gajashilapura, through it can be interpreted as “hail stone” in Kannada. The town was founded in 1603 by Chikka Thimme Gowda of the Sugatur family, the General of Bijapur, after annexing Thimme Gowda’s hereditary possessions of Hoskote, granted him Anekal. Finally Haidar Ali expelled the rulers, and Anekal became a part of Mysore. GEOGRAPHY : Anekal is located at 12.7°N 77.7°E with an average elevation of 915 metres (i.e, 3001 feet). WEATHER CONDITION (As per the day and time of observation) : Climate : Hot Sunny day Average Temperature : 33.15 degree celsius Humidity : 33% Pressure : 1.0017 At Wind speed : 3.1 m/sec Wind degree : 90 degree

Fig: Bangalore

Fig: Anekal

DEMOGRAPHICS : Anekal has a population of 44,260 in which males constitute 52 percent and females 48 percent. They have approximately equal literacy rate among males and females. People over there has been provided with government and private both type of schools and colleges.

ROADMAP FROM NIFT TO ANEKAL :

EDUCATION : People depending on their financial strength send their children to either a government or a public institute.

LOCATION OF SILK INDUSTRY IN ANEKAL : Anekal is also known for its Silk industry and it is a home to a number of skilled weavers.

FLORA AND FAUNA : Flora in Anekal includes ragi crops, all type of vegetables, mainly banana in fruits, Banyan trees, jackfruit, etc. Outside their houses people plant Hibiscus, Papaya tree, mango tree and tulsi plant. Fauna in Anekal consist of monkeys, cows, dogs, goat, hen and birds.

Lifestyle

RELIGION : Most of the people in Anekal are hindu but other religions co-exist.

GODS THEY WORSHIP : Since most of the neighborhood inhabitants have a place to Hindu religion the divine beings and goddess they revere are Sri Thimmarayaswamy, Kambada Ganesha, Sri Amrutha Mallikarjuneshwara and Sri Bhramarambika, Sri Avimukteshwara Deva, Ruler Chennakeshava, Sri Madduramma, Sri Bandi Mahakaliamma, Master Srirama, Anjaneya Maruti , Goddess Saraswati , Master Venkateshwara, Srinivasa Kalyana, Goddess Lakshmi, etc.

RELIGIOUS BELIEFS:

SUPERSTITIOUS BELIEFS : They hang lemon and chilli before the machines they utilize & coconuts over the entryways of the fundamental entrance of the house. The coconuts are those that they had advertised to god . They accept that the coconut is a portion of god and gives them gifts every time. For them Monday and Friday are the purest days, they clean the houses and they pour cowdungs on the ground before the houses to decontaminate the put. They make rangoli/alpana to welcome goddess Lakshmi and if you don't mind her. Ladies wear “Talima”(mangalsutra) for long life of the spouses. They enhance the entryway hangings with mango takes off . “Timaraya Swami Temple” is exceptionally popular among individuals inAnekal. Individuals accept that Ruler Venket eshwara came there some time recently marriage from Srinivasa Kalyana when his spouse Lakshmi cleared out and came here.

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LIFE STYLE KHDC (Karnataka Handloom Advancement Enterprise) has given them houses to dwell . A few houses are building and a few are pakka house but the rooftops are made up of asbetos. There is no such segregation in the family, both men and ladies work to win their livings. Most of the individuals work there in the factory. People over there do portion time work. Fundamentally in each house they have their possess private machines for silk cloth generation . Amid the day time they work in the manufacturing plant for 8-10 hours and they begin working at their house. With this they have additional profit for the living. The individuals here moreover compose a get together nearly each month in which they for the most part plan non veggie lover dishes like chicken and fish.

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LIFE STYLE OF PEOPLE IN ANEKAL:

FOOD : Rice , roti ,vegetable curries , drain and tea are cooked by them on every day premise. Uncommon nourishment that they make is a sweet dish called ‘Ubattu’ which is made at the happy event of ‘Ugadi’. COSTUMES : Men in Anekal generally wear lungi, dhoti, T-shirts, shirts, pants, Pants, and ladies there wear saree, shirt, salwar suits etc.

LANGUAGES : Kannada is the most widely spoken language in Anekal. Other common languages include Telugu, Tamil, Hindi and Marwari. FESTIVALS: The important festivals of people in Anekal are Karaga and Dussehra. MEANS OF ENTERTAINMENT : Means of entertainment include Televisions, radios, social functions, gatherings and local fair which is held in Anekal annually.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT :

OTHER OCCUPATIONS:

FACILITIES AVAILABLE : There is one government clinic and other private clinics. Anekal has both government schools and colleges . They have power accessible all the time (Rs 50/month). There are eight lines of houses and they get water in each two days. So each house has a tank to store water. Crude materials are made accessible to them through government. Legitimate lavatories are built for legitimate sanitation. They too have gas supplies in their range and moreover a legitimate waste framework in their region. There are petrol pumps accessible in the city premises.

MICRO LEVEL ANALYSIS

LIFESTYLE Most families has a place to Suryanagar and migrated to Attibele. A joint family set up can be seen , where all family individuals from fantastic father to child can be seen living together. For the families, the day begins at 5:00 am in the morning and closes at 10:00 pm . Spouse takes care of all family chores, though men work on the handlooms or powerlooms. The family looks very fought with their way of life and profit. GODS THEY WORSHIP: Ishwara, Anjaneya Maruti, Ganpatiappa, Saraswati, Lord Venkateshwara, Srinivasa Kalyana, Lakshmi.

FESTIVALS: Makar Sankranti, Ganesh chaturthi, Mahashivaratri, Ugadi, Ramnavmi .

SUPERSTITIOUS BELIEFS: They hang coconuts or other natural products like pumpkin over the entryways of the fundamental entrance of the house. The coconuts are which they have advertised to god . they accept that the coconut is a portion of god and gives them gifts everytime. For them monday and friday are the purest day, they clean the houses n they pour cowdungs on the ground before the houses to decontaminate the put. They make rangoli and alpana to welcome godess lakshmi and to it would be ideal if you her. Ladies wear “talima” (mangalsutra) for the long life of the spouses. They beautify the entryway hangings with mango takes off . “timaraya swami temple” is exceptionally popular sanctuary over there. Individuals accept that ruler venkateshwara came there some time recently marriage from srinivasa kalyana when his spouse lakshmi cleared out and came here.

LIFE STYLE : The houses have been given to most families by KHDC in Attibele. It is a pakka house with the rooftops are made up of asbetos. There is no such segregation in the family, bothe men and ladies work to win their livings. FOOD : Rice, roti, vegetable curries, drain, tea, & all common nourishment. Extraordinary nourishment they make is fundamentally a sweet dish “Ubattu” which they make at the event of “Ugadi”. COSTUMES : They wear lungi, dhoti, t-shirts, shirts, pants, trousers and women wear saree, blouse, salwar suits most commonly.

MEANS OF ENTERTAINMENT : Source of recreation are movies, radios ,social functions, gatherings and local mela ECONOMY : Anekal is one of the developing towns around Bangalore urban locale arranged near to major financial destinations like Electronic City, Jigani and Hosur. Muthyala Maduvu moreover known as Pearl Valley is a major traveler spot fair a few km from the town and draws in visitors from all over the state. Anekal is too known for its Silk industry and is domestic to a number of gifted weavers.

RAW MATERIALS

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Colors used to dye the silk yarns Wax Unprocessed hard silk (kora)

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Mixture of water and white bond

SILK PRODUCTION

SILK: Silk is an animal protein fiber produced by certain insects to build their cocoons. Many different types of silk are produced by a huge variety of different types of insects other than moth caterpillars. Yet none of these have been exploited for commercial purposes, though there has been basic research into the structures of such silks. Silk is most commonly produced by larvae, and thus largely limited to insects with complete metamorphosis. In some instances, however, it is produced by adult insects such as webspinners. Silk production is especially common in the Hymenoptera (bees, wasps, and ants), and is sometimes used in nest construction. Other types of arthropod produce silk, most notably various arachnids such as spiders. The silk produced by other insects, mainly spiders, is used in a small number of other commercial applications, for example weapons, telescopes, and other optical instruments. SERICULTURE: Cultivation of the silkworm is known as sericulture. Although many insects produce silk, only the filament produced by Bombyx mori, the mulberry silk moth and a few others in the same genus, is used by the commercial silk industry.The “silkworm” is, technically, not a worm but a moth pupa. HATCHING OF THE EGGS: The first stage of silk production is the laying of silkworm eggs, in a controlled environment such as an aluminum box, which are then examined to ensure they are free from disease. The female deposits 300 to 400 eggs at a time. In an area the size of the monitor screen, 100 moths would deposit some 40,000 eggs, each about the size of a pinhead. The female dies almost immediately after depositing the eggs and the male lives only a short time after. The adult possesses rudimentary mouthparts and does not eat during the short period of its mature existence. The tiny eggs of the silkworm moth are incubated (about 10 days) until they hatch into larvae (caterpillars). At this point, the larva is about a quarter of an inch long.

THE FEEDING PERIOD: Once hatched, the larvae are placed under a fine layer of gauze and fed huge amounts of chopped mulberry leaves during which time they shed their skin four times. The larvae may also feed on Osage orange or lettuce. Larvae fed on mulberry leaves produce the very finest silk. The larva will eat 50,000 times its initial weight in plant material.

For about six weeks the silkworm eats almost continually. After growing to its maximum size of about 3 inches at around 6 weeks, it stops eating, changes color, and is about 10,000 times heavier than when it hatched. The silkworm is now ready to spin a silk cocoon.

SPINNING THE COCOON: The silkworm attaches itself to a compartmented frame, twig, tree or shrub in a rearing house to spin a silk cocoon over a 3 to 8 day period. This period is termed pupating. Silkworms possess a pair of specially modified salivary glands called sericteries, which are used for the production of fibroin – a clear, viscous, proteinaceous fluid that is forced through openings called spinnerets on the mouthpart of the larva. Liquid secretions from the two large glands in the insect emerge from the spinneret, a single exit tube in the head. The diameter of the spinneret determines the thickness of the silk thread, which is produced as a long, continuous filament. The secretions harden on exposure to the air and form twin filaments composed of fibroin, a protein material. A second pair of glands secretes a gummy binding fluid called sericin which bonds the two filaments together. Steadily over the next four days, the silkworm rotates its body in a figure-8 movement some 300,000 times, constructing a cocoon and producing about a kilometer of silk filament.

REELING THE FILAMENT: At this stage, the cocoon is treated with hot air, steam, or boiling water. The silk is then unbound from the cocoon by softening the sericin and then delicately and carefully unwinding, or 'reeling' the filaments from 4 - 8 cocoons at once, sometimes with a slight twist, to create a single strand. As the sericin protects the silk fiber during processing, this is often left in until the yarn or even woven fabric stage. Raw silk is silk that still contains sericin. Once this is washed out (in soap and boiling water), the fabric is left soft, lustrous, and up to 30% lighter. The amount of usable silk in each cocoon is small, and about 2500 silkworms are required to produce a pound of raw silk.

WORKING WITH SILK: Raw silk is twisted into a strand sufficiently strong for weaving or knitting. This process of creating the silk yarn is called “throwing,” and prevents the thread from splitting into its constituent fibers. Four different types of silk thread may be produced from this procedure: - Crepe - Tram - Thrown singles - Organzine # Crepe is made by twisting individual threads of raw silk, doubling two or more of these together, and then twisting them again. # Tram is made by twisting two or more threads in only one direction. # Thrown singles are individual threads that are twisted in only one direction. # Organzine is a thread made by giving the raw silk a preliminary twist in one direction and then twisting two of these threads together in the opposite direction. In general, organzine thread is used for the warp threads of materials, tram threads for the weft or filling, crepe thread for weaving crinkly fabrics and a single thread for sheer fabrics. Broken or waste filaments and damaged cocoons are retained, treated to remove the sericin, and combed. This is then processed into yarn, marketed as spun silk, which is inferior in character to the reeled product and much cheaper

TOOLS & MACHINES USED

Reeling machine: The bundle of raw silk is reeled to spools using reeling machine.

Spinning wheel: The silk is spinned to spindles using spinning wheel. This tool is made of cycle wheel and very economic, as it does not consume power.

Warping Machine: Used to prepare warp beam.

Fly- Shuttle: The spools are inserted in fly-shuttle while weaving to process weft.

Jacquard Machine: Punch Cards are loaded in the jacquard machine to create the motif design on the product.

Handloom( Magga): Manually operated weaving machine.

Foot Pedals: The weaver operates foot pedals to shift locomotive parts of the loom to enable efficient weaving.

Wooden Frame (kunte) : The wooden frame locally known as ’Donu’ is used to wind the prepared weave at regular intervals. Kanti: The spinning wheel that is used to wind the yarn to form spools. Naada: Shuttle for passing the weft through the shed. Shedu: A tool with pins or small needles on both the sides which is pinned on the saree to get a tightly woven saree. Reed: A reed is part of a loom, and resembles a comb. It is used to push the weft yarn securely into place as it is woven, it also separates the warp threads and holds them in their positions, keeping them untangled, and guides the shuttle as it moves across the loom. It consists of a frame with lots of vertical slits. The reed is securely held by the beater. Laligoppu: A tool which comes along with lali which is used to repair the parts of jacquard machine if they are broken. Pex: It is inserted in the holes present in jacquard according to the designs.

Other Tools & Machines:

PROCESS

The Priyadharshini handloom sends the yarns, golden zari along with the color combinations and even the designs are decided and given on a graph paper to the KHDC office located in Anekal. The KHDC office members themself dye the yarns in the dying unit before handing it over to the artisans for weaving. Even the artisan’s are also asked for their opinions about the color combinations. The artisans collect the yarns worth Rs.1000 at once and make approximately 60-70 sarees out of it.

REELING: The unprocessed hard silk yarn bundle is attached to the wheel of reeling machine. First the thread from the bundle is reeled to big spools. Then two threads from two different spools are reeled together into a single spool. This process is called ‘Doubling’. To make the silk thread strong, the silk thread is twisted with the help of twisting machine. The twisted thread is turned into lengthy warp and sent for dyeing and spinning.

DYEING: The unprocessed hard silk (kora) is bleached before adding color in order to obtain pure white silk. Then it is dipped in a boiling colored solution of dye for about 5-10 minutes. Acetic acid is then added to the solution to retain the color permanently. After dying the silk is washed in cold water. So during this dyeing process the degum which is present in the unprocessed hard silk is removed and thus the soft, lustrous nature of the silk is obtained with the desired color.

WARPING: After dying, a warp is prepared to make the sari for which a warping machine is used. The thread rolls are put on its vertical frame which is movable. The ends of the thread are taken from the rolls and are wound on the big wooden cylinder of the machine. This process starts from one end of the big octagonal cylinder and goes on till the entire cylinder is covered with yarn. The tightly wound yarn on this log is then provided to the weavers which is used as warp on the loom frame. The entire length of the warp is a stretch of about 75 meters which can make approximately 10 saris at a time.

SPINNING: The colored silk thread from the spool is directly reeled to the spindle. These spindles are inserted in the fly-shuttle, which is, used in weaving. The spinning process is done to avoid twisting of the yarn and to ensure easy weaving. Spindles of different color threads are prepared and used according to the designs of the product.

WEAVING PROCESS: The pit loom, which is locally called ‘Magga’ is identified by the heavy wooden frames. The loom is controlled by the taupit with consists of punched cards with holes, each row of which corresponds to one row of the design. Multiple rows of holes are punched on each card and the many cards that compose the design of the textile are strung together in order. And then the warp is loaded in to the loom by attaching each strand of warp to the loom. This process is locally called ‘achhu’. The design required on the saree is initially drawn in a computer and then this is punched into a card and then these cards are loaded in Jacquard in the loom. First the yarn is loaded as warp and then loaded into the loom. The fly- shuttle (lalli) is inserted into the opened warp shedu to process the weft. Two warp yarns pass through the loop of 1nylon thread. There are 4 rows of nylon thread and one thread from alternate rows each passes through the reed and participate in the weaving at the sametime. Around 5800 threads can through the reed and when the threads pass through the reed they prevent the twisting of yarns. The motif designs are created by adding extra weft of Zari-golden threads. Jacquard mechanism is used to create intricate design on the sari. Weaver uses different colors of spindles according to the design and motifs. It takes around 4-5 minutes to weave 1 inch of saree. And after weaving 1 inch they polish the saree using a mixture of water and white bond to obtain the lustre of silk. The formed cloth is reeled to the weavers beam. After weaving 6.5 meters i.e. one sari is cut and folded in a systematic manner for marketing. The silk used for making the saree is 100% pure whereas the silk used for making zari is 45-50% pure since pure gold silk is too expensive to an extent that the saree costs Rs.3000extra from the actual selling price. And if the silk gets over in the middle of the saree making it takes nearly 2 days to giant (join) the warp yarns. It takes nearly 2 to 3 days to complete one sari using handloom system.

PACKAGING AND MARKETING: Once the saree is totally woven, it is taken to KHDC office. The sarees are weighed to begin with in grams and as per their records and sort of saree the artisansare given their compensation. By and large it is given on Fridays. From there the KHDC packs the saree and sends them to Priyadarshini Handlooms which is a government undertaking handloom. The last taken a toll of the saree when it is sold to client ranges from Rs.5000-Rs.10000 based on the multifaceted nature of the plan. QUALITY CHECK: The person in charge of quality check is Mr.Ashwini. The quality check is done on tha basis of quality of threads, length of the saree and the design.

MOTIFS

SWOT ANALYSIS STRENGTH– Availability of raw materials. – Traditionally skilled workers. – Sufficient production capability. – Strong cooperative government support. – Vast availability of human resources. – Availability of financial support. WEAKNESS– No well developed infrastructure. – There is no competition between the units. – No quality check for the product is done as in particular to design , materials or colour – Not technologically advanced. – Usage of old handloom machines. – No well organized marketing and export .

OPPORTUNITIES– Intervention of financial and technical support – Development in products and design as well. – Introduction of powerloom can be done . – Introduction of market promotions. – May have scope of creating showrooms for handloom silk sarees. – Can participate in some seminars and competition as well. THREATS– – – –

High competition among other units of craft cluster outside the region. Better quality of sarees from other parts of India. Changing of the market trends Changing of taste of the youth.

PROBLEM STATEMENT • • • •

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The weavers are not completely professionally talented individuals. They are semi gifted as it were for the reason of doing work and win money. The work rate settled per saree is as well less as a result a parcel of youths are not willing to take up this calling. Drainage framework is not well built . They are subordinate on KHDC and they do not get customary orders from KHDC. The Innovation utilized is exceptionally ancient. As it were handloom machines are utilized since of which the time taken is as well tall and weavers feel exhausted. There was a require to re-understand foundation . There is no framework to check the quality of the fabric or the item.

SOLUTION • • •

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Silk weavers ought to learn the handle professionally, and not fair for the purpose of doing work and gain money. There ought to be a settled working time. The strategies they utilize ought to be moved forward and supplanted with cutting edge innovation. They may utilize powerlooms instead of handlooms , which will diminish the manual work and the normal time too. The compensation ought to be paid on month to month premise and not as it were as per the numbers of sarees they make, or they ought to get the cash agreeing the number of hours they work in the factory. High taken a toll framework ought to be there and modern machines ought to be given so that items don’t get damaged. There ought to be a quality checking prepare for crude materials as well as the last items.

QUESTIONAIRE •

Are you happy with your profession? (yes/no) If not, why?

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DO you want your children or grand children end up with the same profession? (yes/no) If not, why?

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What do you think is the reason that most of the young men/women in Attibele don’t prefer this profession? (yes/no) If not, why?

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Do the competitors have any advantage over your firm? (yes/no) If yes, their advantages are:– Cheap financing, low infrastructure cost – Better quality of products – Use of better technology – Bulk purchase of raw material at low cost.

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Do you think your own performance can be improved with modern technology? (yes/no) If yes, what are the problems in adopting such technology? – Inadequate finance – Basic infrastructure amenities – Legal problems – Capital Goods – Non availability of required quality inputs – Any other

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How is Manpower quality? – Unskilled – Semi-skilled – Professional/ technical

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What is the level of mechanization? – Manual machines – Electricity operated machines – Semi computerized – Fully computerized machines

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What are the incentives given for performance? – Bonus – Festival gifts – Performance incentives – Share as incentives for high performance

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Are you satisfied with your current level of growth? (Yes/no) If not, why?

My Experience Most of the families in Anekal have been provided with shelter by KHDC. They appear to be very cheerful with their calling as silk weavers. . But the fact that is to be noted is that most of them here are not willing that their children or grandchildren persue the same profession. The fundamental reason that they grant is the need of sufficient offices from the government and the proportion of contributing labor and their normal wage is not palatable. Older weavers seem to be quite satisfied but on talking to some young people I got to know what their problems were. They don’t want to spent their time in a profession where spends 2 – 3 days or sometimes even a week in weaving a saree and is paid only 1500 – 2000 depending on the intricacy of designs. These sarees are then sold in the market on a average rate of 6000 per saree. The prices vary and sometimes goes to as much as 16000 for one saree. After so much of dedication and hard work, they are not even paid 20%, sometimes not even 10% of the MRP. One reason that these ancient weavers are giving up with this profession is the genealogical values that they join with their family profession. Another reason that I amid this trip was able to figure out is their conservative nature. This conviction of mine got indeed more more grounded when one of them attempted to inquire me that where I was from and why had I come there. He got to know by observing my expressions that I could not understand him. I told him that I could speak only English and Hindi. I could feel that the individuals who were upbeat to see me there covering them had begun judging me for not knowing their regional language. I had never experienced this before in my last two years in Karnataka. Well, that is their love for their culture. Communication with the weavers was certainly one of the issues that I confronted there. Travelling to Anekal from HSR Layout was another that I would like to mention. There are no cabs that ply to Anekal Town from Bengaluru. Although there are a few KSRTC and private buses that one could select to travel to Chandrapura. And from there, a few local buses ply to the weavers town. If one closely observes the weavers in Anekal, one may notice that most of the weavers belong to the age group of 40 - 60. The cover page of the document intentionally has a old woman who must be not less than 60 years of age, trying to entangle the strings beneath a little bulb which was hung just over her head to provide her with sufficient light to work. The bulb was covered with a sheet of paper to make the light focus on the working area. This was the condition there at approximately 01:00 pm in the afternoon inside the corridor where all the weavers gather to work. The infrastructure, specially the lighting conditions there are terrible. We certainly need to take the necessary steps for the upliftment and welfare of these weavers. There is a need to supply them with modern technology for faster production which will contribute in the decrease in man power.

BIBLIOGRAPHY • • • • • •

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anekal fulladdress.blogspot.in/2011/07/eastern-silk-industries-ltd-in-anekal.html www.vidteq.com/Bangalore/Eastern-Silk-Industries-Ltd/Story texeresilk.com/article/silk_making_how_to_make_silk en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/silk-manufacturin-process.html