CONTEXT 1. Executive Summary 2. Brand Story 3. Marketing Analysis 4. PEST Analysis 5. Brand Position & Identity 6. Customer Profile 7. Competitor Analysis 8. Marketing Mix 9. New Design 10. Reference & Bibliography
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
This brand report examines Comme des Garçons as a brand,intimately describing how Rei Kawakubo has built her fashion empire to the current position. This report includes introduction of brand’s history, brand marketing analysis and design development plan. To evaluate the position of Comme des Garçons in the current market place, while also providing brand extension to develop the brand to future market. Based on the analysis of brand image, identity and communication, its consumer and potential consumer base ,competitors and the broader macro-economic environment, a structured design development plan will be conducted. It including its proposed strategies and specific action plan.
Comme des Garçons , French for "Like Boys”,in
Japanese is written as コ ム . デ . ギ ャ ル ソ ン (Komu de Gyaruson). The name was inspired inspired by Francoise Hardy’s 1962 song Touse les garçons et les fills.
In 1982, Kawakubo began to express her dissatisfaction with the early direction of some of her design ideas stating: "Three years ago I became dissatisfied with what I was doing. I felt I should be doing something more directional, more powerful. In fashion we had to get away from the influence of what had been done in the 1920s or the 1930s. We had to get away from the folkloric. I decided to start from zero, from nothing, to do things that have not been done before, things with a strong image."[2]
R
ei Kawakubo, founding mother and chief designer of Comme des Garçons, was born in 1942 in Tokyo.As the oldest of her parents’ three children, she studied fine arts and literature at Keio University where her father worked at as an administrator. After graduation in 1964, she was not thing of a fashion job, she did work for Asahi Kasei,a textile manufacture,in their advertising department .In 1967,Re Kawakubo started working as a freelance stylist that had taught her a lot for creating a coherent identity.In 1969,although not formally studied fashion deign, Kawakubo began to design her own clothes under the label Comme des Garçons,until Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd was incorporated in 1973.
Comme des Garçons ’s first boutique was opened up in Tokyo in1975, and staged its first show in Japan in the same year.There was only wo m e n s we a r l i n e at t h e e a rl y stage,before adding menswear line which she called “Homme" in1978. By 1980, CDG had flourished and according to Thurman, "had a hundred and fifty franchised shops across Japan, eighty employees, and annual revenues of thirty million dollars.”[1]
Whereafter, she opened up the first boutique in New York. Three years later, Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd was established in New York. By the late 80’s,CDG operated more than 300 stores around the world that a fourth of these stores were located outside Japan. In the beginning of Kawakubo’s first decade with Comme de Garçons, black ,white and dark grey were primarily used for her clothes which
led to Kawakubo and CDG’s followers were commented as “The Crows” by the Japanese press, before her palette has grown somewhat since the late 1980s. T h e c o m p a ny fo u n d e d u p s eve r a l fashion lines under the label: Comme des Garçons Homme (started in 1978), Tricot Comme des Garçons (started in 1981), Comme des Garçons Homme Plus (started in 1984), comme des garcons SHIRT (started in 1988),Comme des Garçons Play (started in 2002), BLACK comme des garçons (started in 2009),etc. Also, The company opened up the first Dover street market, its original market store, in London in 2004.
1969
Comme des Garçons, founded by Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo
1973
Establishes as a company Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd
1975 Comme des Garcons released its first fashion show & first boutique in Tokyo
1978 Launched its menswear collection, Comme des Garçons Homme
Kawakubo held an exhibition of sculpture in 1990.
1981
Opened first show in Paris in 1981 Opened a boutique in Paris in 1982
1990
2017
Met Gala 2017 Theme: Rei Kawakubo & Comme des Garçons
2017
Starting in May 2017, Rei Kawakubo will be the subject of one of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's fashion exhibitions in New York.
2010 Opens six-storey flagship store in Seoul, the first outside Japan
2004 Launched first Dover Street Market in 2004.
Comme des Garcons Parfum has launched its first fragrance collection in 1994
2002 1994
Kawakubo collaborated with artist Flip Pagowski on Comme des Garcons Play
BACKGROUND MARKETING ANALYSIS Current Revenue Dover street market stores account for 30% of the revenue of Comme des Garçons business, with annual revenue of about $320 million in 2018 (BoF,2019) Thanks to Comme des Garçons's Met Gala theme, Dover street market's overall profits grew 35% in 2017, with Ginza and London stores the fastest growing, while New York stores took just three years to turn a profit. In 2017, Comme des Garçons sales jumped 30% year-on-year to $300millions. Dover Street Market opened in 2004 with £1millions investment and annual sales of around £5millions, according to separate figures. (Ebrun,2018) Despite the $300 million in revenues, Adrian Joffe, as CEO of the company, is cautious about future development.He points out that the company has no high advertising costs, no shareholder pressure and no need to target big increases in annual profits. Comme des Garçons will not follow the global expansion model of the fashion and luxury groups, but will do so at its own pace. (Eburn,2018)
Per sonal luxur y goods outperfor med the overall market in 2018, climbing 6% to reach a record high of €260 billion. (Bain&company,2018) Luxury purchases in Japan eased compared with 2017 but still hit €22 billion, representing 6% growth (3% at current exchange rates). Japan enjoyed increased consumption by tourists, who took advantage of affordable flights to the main shopping cities of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. (Bain&company,2018) Japan’s luxury goods market, one of the largest in the world, is growing steadily again, after a long period of global and domestic crisis, and is expected to grow further over the next years thanks to rising consumer confidence and the purchasing power of the younger generations, creating prospects for an increase in spending for luxury goods. Moreover, purchases by inbound tourists have a substantial effect on sales in the luxury goods market, and as the number of tourists is expected to rise in 2018, a boost in the luxury market is expected too. (Deloitte, 2018)
Market in Japan
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Political
PEST
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• The trade war between America and China may affects Japan’s trade. • As Japan’s population ages and shrinks, the government hopes to alleviate the labour shortage by recruiting more foreign specialists.(Ashely Clarke, 2017)
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Social • The rise in the number of working women has had a positive impact on luxury sales (Deloitte, 2019) • People are marrying later and birth rate is continuously declining in Japan, they spend more on themselves. (Edwin Jiang, 2016) • Japan’s vintage market is mature and popular around the wold. • Millennials as the biggest customer group for luxury industry ,spend more than previous generation and display low brand loyalty.(BrandA mplitude,2009;Greenberg,2011) • Influenced by traditional Japanese culture. Sales teams always offer excellent service to customers in Japan. • The seasonally adjusted unemployment rate in Japan remained at 2.4 percent in May 2019, matching market expectations. (Trading economic 2019) • As incomes increase , the spending patterns of this consumer group has evolved from merchandise to “experience”
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Economical • Japan’s 2018 GDP is 4970 billion s dollars ， slightly increased from 4859 billions dollars in 2017. • In Japan, growth in the economy seems to be accelerating.The recovery is due mainly to the economic program and monetary policy since 2013 of the government of Prime Minister Shinzō Abe, which have led to low unemployment and strong export growth. (Deloitte, 2018) • Facing increasing competition from China and South Korea,manufacturing in Japan now focuses primarily on high-tech and precision goods (Morris, Ben 2012) • In 2019, Japan’s economy unexpectedly grew in the first quarter, and Shinzo Abe plans to raise the country's consumption tax this fall.(Wataru Suzuki,2019)
Technological • The growth of e-commerce sector is starting to affect retail market,Comme des Garçons launched the first online brand, CDG . • Development in e-payment in Japan. • Development in multi-channel and omnichannel, as customers are able to buy Comme des Garçons in famous online shopping platforms. • Over 118 millions Internet users as of Dec/2018, 93.5% penetration. • As the important demand for e-commerce’s growth,Japan is still facing wth labour shortage and the immaturity of automation, directly result in the high cost of Logistics.
STRENGTHS • Rei Kawakubo, founding mother and chief designer of COMME des GARÇONS, has outstanding power and influence in worldwide fashion industry. • High brand recognition as an innovative and luxury fashion brand and high brand equity. • Collaboration with well-know brand (Adidas,Converse ,Nike ,etc) • High attention of catwalk show. • High customer loyalty . • Having many diffusion brands in order to meet different customer demands, such as ‘Comme des Garçons Play’ which is high profit. • Dover street market stores account for 30% of the revenue of CDG business, with annual revenue of about $320 million (BoF,2019)
WEAKNESSES • Limited global distribution (mainly focus on Japan) • Weak promotion ,rarely have advertisement and appear on social media ,lacking communication with customers. • Not having a outstanding website to give informations as well as sell products online. • Large scale of brand lines turn to confuse customer ,will be not able to get the main line’s brand image clearly. • The relatively limited and niche consumer groups due to the high price. • The style is artistic and futuristic, only for customers who like this kind of styles.
OPPORTUNITIES • The continued expansion of E-commerce • To have more strong relationship with wellknow brand and collaborate with them. • Continue expanding the overseas market (West Europe and other regions. • Enhance its social media presence as well as creating an outstanding website. • To build more powerful brand image by achieving more deep product lines for mainline.
THREATS • Luxury brands are becoming younger and more fashionable. • Threat from avant-garde designers from fashion market.Highly competitive environment in the retail industry. • Play line is facing the threat from counterfeit. • Handicraft cost has grown continuously.
Comme des Garçons its unique sell point is anti-fashion.Between 2004 and 2011, it offered fans the chance to open temporary shops selling dead stock as part of the 'Guerrilla Stores' concept.Its pioneering spirit has challenged traditional retail models.
“For Something to be beautiful, it does not have to be pretty” ------Rei Kawakubo
BRAND POSITIONING Comme des Garçons is a luxury fashion and streetwear brand with enormous influence and unique personality, its mainline and its diffusion labels focus on different market . The main labels preferring design over economy, premium pricing and focus on group who have stable income. The diffusion segments is more fashionable, without very high brand loyalty ,and more younger and accessible than the former(some of its diffusion labels).Comme des Garçons has about 28 product line to meet different customers’ need.Its first flagship store located in Aoyama, Tokyo. Store distribution is world-wide but mainly in Japan.
BRAND IDENTITY
Brand as a Product Brand as a Person
The Comme des Garçons brand has 4 product lines:
Like boys, Independent, Different to Anyone, Imaginative, Mysterious.
Ready-To-Wear Perfume Accessories & Bags Shoes (mainly collaboration)
Brand as a Symbol Black, avant gard, distressed fabrics, unfinished seams, Japanese， deconstructionism, asymmetrical
Brand as Organization Japanese flagship store is in Aoyama and concept stores in Tokyo, and stores in Kyoto, Osaka, Paris, New York City, Seoul,etc. Comme des Garçons's designer fashion lines: Comme des Garçons Noir, Comme des Garçons Homme, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Comme des Garçons Shirt, Comme des GarçonsComme des Garçons, etc. Dover street market, as its original market store ,sells all Comme des Garçons brands .
Personality
Unfinished seams, asymmetrical innovative tailoring, black.
Spirit free, like boys , independent
Relationship
Culture
Distinctive, Exclusive , Deconstructionism ,Innovative
Japanese aesthetic, minority/ sub-culture, handicraft, anti-fashion
Reflection
Self image
They are fashionable, have distinctive fashion taste and lifestyle, never care about others’ opinions .
I am unique I am fashionable I belong to myself.
Picture of Receiver
Externalizatin
Internalization
Physique
Picture of Sender
Segmen
ntation Demographics Age: 20-45 Mainly the Millennials and Gen X Gender: Female/ Male unisex Marital Status Single/Married Income: Upper 50millions 円 (annual) （about GBP37,000） Social class: Middle-class, Upper middle class Location: Major City Occupation：Fashion-related/ Artistic Education : Well-educated , Overseas experience
Psychographic Segmentation Lifestyle: Fashion conscious /Mental Works /Fashion Leaders Personality type: Independent, Treason, Artistic pursuits, Self-expressive Spending attitude: Natural spender , Prefer design and quality than economy Value& Attitude :The strangeness and bigotry in people's eyes is the redefinition of beauty./Strong enough is free enough.
Geo-demographics COO/ Country of Origin : Japan Country: Worldwide, most of store location focus on Japan Street Location: Central business district ,Artistic block
Behavior Segmentation
User Occassion: Daily Life, Museums & Galleries Visit, Fashion party Benefits wanted: Image enhancement ,Shopping environment Loyalty Level: High Hobbies & Interest: Travel, Movie, Music, Exhibition Activities on weekend: Museums & Galleries Visit, Travel, Having a party Place for shopping, Multi-brand boutique, Soho, Vintage shop
Name : 山崎静香（Yamazaki Shizuka） Age :20 Occupation : Art university Student (study in London) Interests :Travel ,Fashion，Movie,Music Hobbies : Shopping, Seeing Drama,Playing Violin Shops at :Vintage stores ,Selfridges, Dover Street Market Listens to : 高橋優 , 米津玄師 , Olly Murs Social Media :Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Line Value& Attitude ： The strangeness and bigotry in people's eyes is the redefinition of beauty.
Name : 林 一 (Lin Yi) Age :35 Occupation: PR manager in Bejing Interests : Art ,Fashion,Social,Sports Hobbies: Having Party,Shopping,Tennis Shops at : Multi-brand boutique, Sanlitun, Joy City Listens to : Shayne Ward, 华晨宇，谢安琪 Social Media : Weibo, Instagram,We-chat Value& Attitude : Strong enough is free enough.
Comme des Garçons’s main competitors are Undercover, Sacai, (direct competitors ), Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake (indirect competitors). These brands are similar to CDG as they all come from Japan, as well as they all have very clear characteristics of design style. Underground and Sacai offer similar product style, at the same time having a very closed price to CDG. CDG has its own flagship stores and multi-brand boutiques, while and Underground and Sacai are mainly sold in multi-brand boutiques. Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, they offer similar product line ,even though they have different styles. And these two brand are higher up than CDG in terms of price.
Perceptual Map
IS YS AL AN R TO TI PE M CO S/W Audit Target Market/ Consumer
Value Proposition
Distribution
Brand Loyalty
Innovation，special fabric，handmade manipulations
Worldwide ,mainly in Japan
High
Ready-to-wear, Innovative tailoring， Worldwide ,mainly shoes,accessories, infinite creativity in Japan perfume
High
Product Range
Ready-to-wear, 20-45,Having distinctive shoes,accessories, fashion taste and lifestyle perfume 28-50,Selfmade,successful people,
20-35,sprite-free,middle- Ready-to-wear, class, upper middle class shoes,accessories
Drape, bold design
Worldwide ,rarely company-owned flagship stores
Medium
20-35,Pay close attention Ready-to-wear, to design,exquisite shoes,accessories
Unique shape
Asia,Europe, America,Mainly in Japan
Medium
28-50,Fashionable,be Ready-to-wear, good at styling，fashion- shoes,accessories, aware people leather goods
Punk impression， new wave fashion
Asia,Europe, America,Mainly in Japan
Medium
MARKETING MIX
Product Comme des Garçons is well-know for its avantgarde aesthetic and unconventional silhouettes. The brand mainline has four primary product lines:ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes and perfume who sells everything from brightly colored wallets to perfume with notes of “oxygen” and “flaming rock.As Kawakubo has admitted some of her pieces aren’t necessarily for wearing,To expand business and brand value, Comme des Garçons began creating sub-brands under the Comme des Garçons umbrella ， whiling yet some of them are largely unknown. The sub-brands are more accessible and wearable for meeting diverse customer needs.
Place Promotion
Comme des Garçons have staged its fashion show in Paris each season. Kawakubo putting the soul and image of the brand on the catwalk and creates extremely creative and impressive works of art for the show. Comme des Garçons has also leveraged a number of big-brand and artist collaborations to expand market ,like Nike,Adidas,H&M,etc. The company uses social media to promote brand awareness and image, focus on catwalk shows, collaboration and creative installations. Comme des Garçons also supports labels fronted by protégés such as Junya Watanabe and Tao Kurihara. As Joffe said "For us, the extension of the brand is how we can grow,”(The Week ,2017)
Comme des Garçons sells product both in stores and online. The company has its company-owned numbers of stores around the world,mainly in Japan.Also selling products in multi-brand stores,particularly in dover street market ,which is perhaps the most important piece of the Comme portfolio and has five locations, one each in New York, London, Singapore, Tokyo, and Beijing. Its online sales channels are mainly through wellknown and international e-commerce platforms such as Farfetch, Ssense, etc.
Price
The pricing of Comme des Garçons its main line is classified into the category of luxury goods with premium prices, mainly focusing customers with stable and high incomes. In order to expand the market and sell more affordable basics items, the company introduced sub-lines with more affordable price, rather than cutting prices on their main line product.
COMBINE THE BASIC GRAPHIC WITH THE VIEW OF THE EARTH, GENTLE AND ANGULAR, SIMPLE AND DIVERSE, DARK AND BRIGHT, CREATE THE INTRESTING CONSTRUCTION.
2020 S/S
2020 S/S
PAT T E R N D E S I G N
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Comme des Garçons ,Official Website. [image] Available at: http://www. comme-des-garcons.com [Accessed at: 27 July, 2019 HUSSEYN CHALAYAN, GISELE BUNDCHEN, GEOTROPICS, SPRING SUMMER 1999. [image] Available at: https://www.strip-project. com/archive bruce-weber-comme-des-garcons-1980/251 [Accessed at: 27 July, 2019] Rei Kawakubo’s Smile. [image] Available at:https://www.anothermag. com/fashion-beauty/gallery/7419/rei-kawakubo-s-smile/5 [Accessed at: 27 July, 2019]
6-10 Rei Kawakubo - Interview Magazine. [image] Available at:https://
www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/rei-kawakubo-1 [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019 ]Jumper of black hand-knitted wool, designed by Rei Kawakubo, Tokyo, 1982, for Comme des Garçons. Museum Number T.1671985. [image] Available at:http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/ O73390/jumper-kawakubo-rei/ [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
11-15 Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe [image] Available at:
https://hypebeast.com/the-hypebeast-hundred-2015/reikawakubo-adrian-joffe [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe perfected the fashion boutique as curated, gallery-like cultural experience with Dover Street Market.[image] Available at: https:// twitter.com/cntraveller/status/1026840143066529793 [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Rei Kawakubo [image] Available at: https://www. trendencias.com/disenadores [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
Thurman, Judith (4 July 2005). "The Misfit: Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese avant-gardist of few words, and she changed women's fashion". The New Yorker. Retrieved 19 January 2018.[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Ebrun，Wang Yiting,2017 ,Kawakubo’s CDG, which topped $300 million in revenue last year, is about to hit the market [Online] Available at: http:// www.ebrun.com20180502/275403. shtml[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Global powers luxury goods ,Deloitte, 2018,[Online] Available at: https://www2. deloitte.com/content/dam/ Deloitte/bg/Documents/ consumer-business/cbglobal-powers-luxurygoods-2018.pdfl[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]Spreads in Japan.2017[Online] Available at: https:// www.euromonitor.com/ spreads-in-japan/report [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
16-20 Rei Kawakubo is this year's Met Gala legend [image] Available at: https://www.
luisaworld.com/rei-kawakubo-years-met-gala-legend/ [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Comme des Garçons Advertising Campaigns [image] Available at: https://www. anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/gallery [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Homme plus [image] Available at: https://svmoscow.com/men/designer/comme_des_ garcons_homme_plus/sale [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] The book 'Commes Des Garcons -1981-1986' beautifully showcases Rei Kawakubo's ground breaking [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/481040803921957141/?lp=true [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Dover Street Market[image] Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2019/2/dover-street-marketparis-beauty-concept-announcement [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] A Guide to Comme des Garçons PLAY[image] Available at:https://www.anothermag.com/artphotography/1973/a-guide-to-comme-des-garcons-play [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
21-28 COMME DES GARÇONS May 4–September 4, 2017[image] Available at: https://www.metmuseum.
Ref
org/exhibitions/listings/2017/rei-kawakubo[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Rihanna nails Met Gala 2017 [image] Available at: https://www.irishmirror.ie/showbiz/celebrity-news/ rihanna-nails-met-gala-2017-10337798[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] This Is Rei Kawakubo,[image] Available at: https://www.huffpost.com/entry/rei-kawakubo-the-met_n_59 077e71e4b02655f83f177f[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Comme des Garcons SS19 launching around the world now. Here Aoyama Tokyo[image] Available at:https:// insta.orenya.com/commedesgarcons[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] The Metropolitan Museum of Art unveils its latest focus ahead of the Costume Gala[image] Available at:https://models.com/mdx/rei-kawakubocomme-des-garcons-art-of-the-in-between/[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Comme Des Garçons In Print[image] Available at:https://trendland.com/comme-des-garcons-in-print/[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] This Is Rei Kawakubo, The Designer Breaking Down Binaries At The Met[image] Available at:https://www. huffpost.com/entry/rei-kawakubo-the-met_n_59077e71e4b02655f83f177f[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Comme Des Garcons - Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign[image] Available at:https://www.streeters.com/news/ comme-des-garcons-spring-summer-2017-campaign[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
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Adrian Joffe: How Comme Des Garcons turned retail into an art form, FELIX BISCHOF,2017[Online] Available at: https://www.theweek.co.uk/82267/adrianjoffe-how-comme-des-garcons-turned-retail-into-an-art-form[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Everything you need to know about Comme des Garçons,Dazed,Jack Sunnucks,2017[Online] Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/35770/1/comme-des-garconsmet-ball-rei-kawakubo-dover-street-market[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Martyna .Gliniecka(2018),Japaneseness in Comme des Garçons Fashion Advertising[Online] Available at: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/46895881. pdf[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Chavie Lieber(2017)The Vast, Mysterious Empire of Comme des Garçons[Online] Available at: https://www.racked.com/2017/4/26/15434296/comme-des-garcons-brands[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Judith T hur man(2014)T he Misfit[Online] Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/ magazine/2005/07/04/the-misfit-3[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Statista(2019)The MisfitLuxury Goods in Japan [Online]Available at:https://www.statista.com/ outlook/21000000/121/luxury-goods/japan#market-revenue[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] The True Story of How COMME des GARÇONS Got Its Name(2015) [Online]Available at:https://www. highsnobiety.com/2015/09/22/how-comme-des-garcons-got-its-name/[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Rei Kawakubo Never Meant to Start a Revolution,ELLE,(2016)[Online]Available at:https://www.elle.com/ fashion/a33802/rei-kawakubo-interview/[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Bianca Gerlach .2016,How Comme Des Garçons Changed Retail With Its Pop-Up Stores[Online] Available at: https://fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2016/12/30/comme-des-garcons-changed-retail-pop-stores/[Accessed at: 30 July, 2019] Bain&Company ,2018,Spreads in Japan.2017LUXURY GOODS WORLDWIDE MARKET STUDY,FALL– WINTER 2018[Online] Available at:https://www.bain.com/contentassets/8df501b9f8d6442eba00040246c6b4f9/ bain_digest__luxury_goods_worldwide_market_study_fall_winter_2018.pdf [Accessed at: 30 July, 2019]
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