Gemology Magazine — Spring 2022 by Vanessa Gorman

A Note From Steve

I hope you are happy, healthy and excited about your latest acquisitions from our everdiversifying collections.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

ello, and welcome to the spring 2022 edition of Gemology by Gemporia. Wherever you are reading this, I hope you are happy, healthy and excited about your latest acquisitions from our

ever-diversifying collections. From the team and me, we sincerely thank you for your continued support and custom. We couldn’t do what we do without you. As I write this, the temperature outside is sub-zero, and snow flurries are swirling around as I glance out of the window. It’s an enchantingly beautiful sight, and a moment’s pause to enjoy nature’s beauty reminds me how very fleeting everything can be. Why so reflective? Well, it hasn’t been an easy couple of years, so wherever you are, whatever you’re doing, and whoever you are with, I hope you’re getting the very best out of every day. By the time you read this, we’ll be well on our way to spring, and, for some of you, it may well have already sprung – this edition of the magazine will be accompanying orders until the end of April. With this in mind, we have packed this issue with inspiration for the coming months. As well as taking a look at some of our latest jewellery collections, we’re also very excited to introduce Amelia Grant’s new gardening collection Flourish. You can read all about the collection in this issue, and you’ll find a thorough listing of all our spring features just over the page. We’d love to know what you think of the magazine and what you’d like more of in future editions. You can always drop me and the team an email at gemology@gemporia.com with any thoughts – we read every message. Until the next time, take care, and I wish you the very best of seasons.

Steve Bennett Co-Founder

22.

32.

42.

76.

100.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Inside

Flourish with Amelia Grant

20. Competition: Win a Nigerian Morganite 9K Gold Ring 22. Gemporia Style Guide: Stack Attack 32. All About Hallmarking 42. Perla Collection 50. Cheralene’s Style Edit 62. Gemporia Craft Update 70. Carbon Neutral at Gemporia 76. Springtime Homewares Highlights 86. @NotPerfect.AlwaysMe 100. Jewellery Matters with Toby Cavill 108. Readers’ Choice

D E S I G N E R ’ S

D E S K

with Amelia Grant Interview by D A N M O R R I S

melia Grant is a recent convert to the joys of gardening, having only started in earnest during the lockdown as a way of helping her cope with the situation. Now, she has well and truly been bitten by the gardening bug, so much so that she is preparing to launch her own collection of gardening tools and supplies – the brand new Flourish range. Ahead of the big launch, we caught up with Amelia to chat about her gardening history, inspiration and why she wanted to bring a gardening collection to Gemporia customers. G E MP ORI A . COM/ FLOURI SH

HI AMELIA, IT’S ALWAYS SO LOVELY TO TALK TO YOU. FIRSTLY, HOW ARE ANDY AND JUDE GETTING ALONG, AND HOW OLD IS YOUR LITTLE ONE NOW?

Thanks for having me! Awww, they’re so good. Jude will be two in May! Can you believe that?! It’s gone so very quickly.

Again the sheer excitement of seeing the first moments of green peeking out from under the compost got me out there every morning with a cup of tea in hand to spy on the progress. I knew from that moment that I was hooked!

Whether you’re a beginner or In the early days of finding my Oh, thank you so much. I’m an experienced way in the garden, I started beyond happy with it. Well, as out while Jude napped. gardener, going many of you know, my dad, ‘our I found that taking the time Stu’, is a gardener. So I guess have a to do the garden was taking it’s kind of in my blood, but I time to look after myself, balcony or the really got into gardening over which I found crucial for my the lockdown period, like many many borders, mental health. I discovered the people. I felt quite overwhelmed had so much to teach, it’s an all- garden by everything that was going on, the acceptance of imperfections, and the garden became my little inclusive problem-solving, how the end of safe haven. can be the beginning gardening something of something beautiful. But the club for thing I found most fascinating (especially being a new parent) I’m really just a super keen those of us was that, with patience and beginner in the grand scheme that love nurturing, how something so of things! As I said, I started in beautiful could come from lockdown at the end of summer, nourishing something so small – a lesson and the first thing I did was how we treat ourselves and our minds, for actually set up a little vegetable others around us. trug. I planted the absolute basics souls and – spring onions, garlic and lamb’s soils in the lettuce. I can not tell you the joy it gave me to see them go from seed garden. I want the Flourish shows to YOUR

NEW

FLOURISH

RANGE

LOOKS

FANTASTIC. WHAT FIRST SPARKED THE

WHAT

DOES

GARDENING

BRING

YOUR LIFE AS A WHOLE?

IDEA OF DOING A GARDENING RANGE?

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN GARDENING FOR?

WHAT’S

YOUR

VERY

FIRST

GARDENING MEMORY?

WHAT MESSAGE ARE YOU HOPING THE

FLOURISH COLLECTION WILL BRING TO OUR CUSTOMERS?

to plate; I felt like a proud parent! (Even though the lamb’s lettuce was not as successful as planned!) I then also got my dad to help me do some containers towards the end of the year. I started simple with daffodils, tulips, and then snowdrops in January. 8

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

be a place to learn, plant and flourish together. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, have a balcony or many borders, it’s an all-inclusive gardening club for those of us that love nourishing our minds, souls and soils in the garden.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

WHAT

DOES

THE

COLLECTION

CONTAIN?

WHICH

GARDENING DOESN’T NECESSARILY HAVE TO BE AN ALL-

SEEDS, BULBS, AND TOOLS ARE YOU BRINGING TO THE

ENCOMPASSING HOBBY, DOES IT?

COLLECTION FIRST?

No! I think that’s the beauty of it. It can quite literally be whatever you want it to be. You can make it as simple as a few containers, grasses or succulents that need next to no maintenance, or you could go with lots of variety and detail if you have more time. Find what works for you.

Oh, I’m so excited to bring these to you. Eeek! So we have gorgeous gloves and super squidgy matching kneeling pads for the first shows, along with the toolset, the clogs, the doormat, and lots more. They’re all designed with style and comfort in mind, so you feel good inside and out whilst getting out in the garden. Oh, and a lovely variety of bulbs, including dahlias, begonias and gladioli. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE APPREHENSIVE ABOUT GARDENING?

There is an excellent quote by Janet Kilburn Phillips, “There are no gardening mistakes, just lessons.” I really didn’t have the first idea of what I was doing initially, but it’s incredible how quickly nature teaches you. Start small, maybe with containers or a small border, and then take it from there. I promise you’ll love it, but I’m warning you now, it’s addictive!

My number one rule would be ‘right plant, right place’. Know your soil! It’s a basic principle that will set you up for success.

WHEN TAKING ON ANY NEW GARDENING PROJECTS,

WHEN DO YOU GO ON-AIR WITH YOUR FIRST SHOW?

I’m very much hoping to get the first show on the air in March or April, ready for some summer bulb planting and hopefully some sunshine! Keep an eye on my social pages for launch show updates. Once we launch, we’ll be on-air every Monday from 3pm to 5pm to start with, so prepare for ‘Flourish Mondays’. The idea behind a regular Monday show is that you should get your Flourish goodies delivered in time for the weekend, and we can then discuss your experiences during the show on the following Monday.

WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO START?

WILL YOU BE DOING ANY DEMONSTRATIONS ON-AIR?

My number one rule would be ‘right plant, right place’. Know your soil! It’s a basic principle that will set you up for success. We have a Flourish soil tester coming out that measures the pH level (acidity) and texture of the soil to help with this. Knowing what grows well in your soil will be vital for the health and life of your plants and will start you off on the right foot. Then, with those things in mind, you can grow what you love. It seems obvious, but fundamentally that’s what it’s all about: enjoying what you’re doing.

Absolutely! I’m also working on a little outdoor Flourish garden, so we can all plant, learn, and share tips and tricks together. DO YOU GROW VEGETABLES IN YOUR HOME GARDEN, AND

WILL

YOU

BRINGING

VEGETABLES

THE

FLOURISH RANGE?

We moved house earlier this year, so with that in mind, I started my vegetable growing in a trug to make sure it was transportable! It was actually a really lovely way to start growing as I tend to be over-ambitious! The trug sits outside my kitchen window and only 13

allows me to grow a small amount at a time, which I find more manageable. I started in October of 2020, and I began by researching the best vegetables to plant at the time of year whilst bearing in mind the advice a vegetable growing friend of mine gave me, which is now my motto: ‘grow what you love to eat’. I planted garlic, spinach and leeks; food me, Andy and Jude all enjoy and devoured the minute the harvest came. I am really keen to bring vegetables, herbs, and fruits to the Flourish range, especially because they can be grown on windowsills, small spaces, and containers. Watch this space. WHAT ARE YOU FAVOURITE FLOWERS TO GROW?

I love lots of colour, which probably doesn’t surprise you at all! I particularly love dahlias, peonies and tulips. I think ‘flamboyant’ and ‘fun’ would sum up my style. WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO BRING TO THE COLLECTION OVER THE COURSE OF THIS YEAR? DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS FOR EXPANDING THE RANGE YET?

Oh my gosh, there are so many exciting goodies coming your way. Everything from the practical: gloves, toolsets, kneeling pads, soil testers, secateurs, gardening clogs; to planting: dahlias, begonias, lilies and more, through to gifting; mugs and bags with wildflower prints, calendars, vases, and lots more.

fruit and veg to plant cuttings and cultivation. One of my favourite things on the course has been learning how our gardens can make a difference in saving the planet and learning sustainable ways to garden. It’s something I’ve become very passionate about and will really enjoy sharing with you. HAVE YOU BEEN VISITING ANY PUBLIC GARDENS AND GARDENING SHOWS TO GATHER INSPIRATION? DO YOU ENJOY A WALK THROUGH A COUNTRY GARDEN, AND DO YOU HAVE ANY FAVOURITES?

The Winterbourne garden where I study is gorgeous; if ever you’re in Birmingham, I definitely recommend a visit. I have a lot of gardens on my ‘to visit’ list, but I’ll be honest, it’s tricky at the minute with a 20-month-old. Little legs get tired quickly. However, I do have an RHS membership, so I intend to make full use of it when Jude is a little older. Luckily there are some gorgeous parks near us, which have some beautiful feature gardens and woodland walks. So I can wear Jude out in the park, then he can have a rest in the pram whilst I get my outdoor fix! WE OFTEN ASK WHO YOUR STYLE ICON IS IN THIS MAGAZINE,

BUT

YOU

HAVE

GARDENING

HORTICULTURAL ICON?

Gertrude Jekyll. Her inspiring English country gardens and idyllic colourful borders will forever be my inspiration.

IN PREPARATION FOR LAUNCHING FLOURISH, YOU DID

WHERE CAN WE FOLLOW YOU ONLINE TO KEEP UP WITH

A HORTICULTURE COURSE AT WINTERBOURNE HOUSE

YOUR SHOWS AND YOUR COLLECTION?

AND GARDEN IN EDGBASTON, ON THE CAMPUS OF THE

@ameliagrantuk and @flourishbyamelia on Instagram, and ‘Amelia Grant Presenter’ on Facebook.

UNIVERSITY OF BIRMINGHAM. WHAT DID THIS ENTAIL, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN?

Yes, that’s right! It’s an RHS level two course that runs right through to this summer. I absolutely love it! My gosh, I’ve learnt so much, from propagation to plant diseases, Latin plant names to garden planning, production of 14

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

THANKS SO MUCH FOR TALKING TO US, AMELIA. WE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE THE LAUNCH OF YOUR COLLECTION AND THE JOY AND MINDFULNESS THAT FLOURISH WILL BRING TO THE LIVES OF GEMPORIA CUSTOMERS.

GEM PORIA .COM/FLOURISH

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Our versatile Molte collection features gorgeous gemstone charms that can be partnered with our beautiful chains and earring hoops to create your own bespoke look. As our popular web exclusive collection turns one year old, we’re delighted to showcase some brand new stunning pieces that are every bit as adaptable as our original designs. It is truly remarkable how customisable our Molte collection is, and we have spent the last 12 months tailoring each piece to suit a range of adaptable and popular tastes. Customers have told us their main joy with Molte is the ability to wear the collection in their own way and to be able to turn everyday essentials into staple pieces. Molte has come a long way in its first year, and our new releases to mark the first birthday are only the very beginning of a new phase of exquisite designs. Discover Molte on our website, and explore the endless possibilities the collection offers. GE M P O R I A . C O M / E XP LO R E / M O LT E -C O L L E C T I O N

Win

This Nigerian Morganite & White Zircon 9K Gold Ring

Morganite is an effortlessly elegant light pink jewel that belongs to the Beryl group - the same gemstone family as Emerald and Aquamarine. It was first discovered in 1910 on an island off the coast of Madagascar, and it was named after John Pierpont Morgan, the legendary Wall Street financier. Relatively unknown for much of its first 100 years, Morganite has been rapidly growing in popularity since 2010 and was even ranked as the second most popular non-Diamond gemstone, just behind Sapphire, in a 2017 survey. You could win this timeless Nigerian Morganite ring in sumptuous yellow gold and with White Zircon accents simply by answering the five questions below. The answers can all be found in this issue of Gemology.

In which district of Birmingham, also famous for its cricket ground, is presenter Amelia Grant doing her horticultural studies?

Jewellery is legally required to be stamped with a location, sponsor’s mark and purity at an assay office, but what number signifies 18 karat gold on the hallmark? 20

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

What is the name of JewelleryMaker presenter Elena Stephens’ new collection?

Which popular pink jewel is sometimes known as ‘the evening gemstone’ ?

Two of our contributors in this issue both said they’d take the same (fictional) thing to a desert island, but what is it?

Answers You can find all the answers somewhere in this edition of Gemology. To enter, jot your answers down below and send this slip back to us at Gemology Competition (#23), Gemporia, Unit 2D, Eagle Road, Redditch, B98 9HF. Alternatively, if you don’t want to cut up your magazine, jot your answers and details down on a separate piece of paper, or email them to us at gemology@gemporia.com with ‘Gemology Competition (23)’ as the subject. Very best of luck!

5. Name

Address Postcode Telephone no.

Ring size

Terms & Conditions: All entries need to be received by midday on Friday 13th May 2022. We will pick the winner at random from all the correct entries we receive. The lucky winner will be notified by midday on Friday 20th May 2022. We’ll announce the winner in a future issue of Gemology. Prize cannot be exchanged for any monetary value, nor swapped or exchanged. Ring resizing is available from Gemporia, however the item will be non-returnable. Only one entry per person, please. The editor’s decision is final. One winner only. Gemporia reserves the right to amend, postpone or cancel the giveaway without notice.

G U I D E S T Y L E G E M P O R I A

Stack Attack Fashion Edit by VA N E S S A G O R M A N

Are you new to stacking rings? Our collectors have told us it can initially be quite confusing knowing what to do. Do you stick to one metal or mix metals? Just one gem or a rainbow of gemstones? A single finger of stacking or across the whole hand? Where to start… Well, the art of ring stacking doesn’t require too much thought – it’s all about what works for you and how it makes you feel. Mix high end with more affordable pieces, go ahead and mix gold and silver, and get creative with your colour palette too. The great thing about this trend is there are no rules, but for those seeking just a bit more guidance, Gemporia is here to help. Across the following few pages, we’ve pulled together some bang on-trend stacking ideas to get you started. Once you get a feel for what works for you, there’ll be no stopping you! Enjoy the guide, and happy stacking! GEMPOR I A . COM/ S TAC K E RS

22 22

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

MINIMALIST Choose rings of similar widths and work your way up. There’s no right or wrong answer – you are the leader of your stack! Stick with one metal colour for a sleek polished look.

01. STERLING SILVER RING LSUS26, 02. STERLING SILVER RING PCUS73, 03. STERLING SILVER SET OF THREE STACKER RINGS ODUS75, 04. STERLING SILVER RING KZUS26, 05. STERLING SILVER RING MZUS37, 06. STERLING SILVER RING RVUS90, 07. STERLING SILVER RING NXUS17, 08. STERLING SILVER RING NHUS31 25

MIX & MATCH Try using contrasting metals to mix things up. Why not wear your favourite statement ring and add smaller stacking pieces for a stunning alternating combo.

01. STERLING SILVER RING RVUS90, 02. MIDAS RING YMUS15, 03. MIDAS RING WAUS65, 04. STERLING SILVER RING CIUS16, 05. STERLING SILVER RING IGUS24, 06. MIDAS RING TMUS79, 07. MIDAS RING XSUS32, 08. STERLING SILVER RING PVUS82 26

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

MAXIMALIST More is sometimes more. Use designs in a smaller size to add flair to the middle of your fingers. Stagger your rings for a more bespoke look.

01. MIDAS RING RTUS87, 02. MIDAS RING TPUS98, 03. MIDAS SET OF THREE STACKER RINGS ZTUS30, 04. MIDAS RING EIUS42, 05. MIDAS RING PJUS71, 06. MIDAS RING YMUS15, 07. MIDAS SET OF THREE STACKER RINGS NEUS40, 08. MIDAS RING HCUS67 29

AMETRINE One of nature’s finest treats must surely be this gorgeous collision of regal Amethyst purples and warm sunshine Citrine hues. Hailing from only one tiny area of Bolivia in South America – the Anahi mine in Santa Cruz – this graceful hybrid stone is the miraculous result of different temperatures present across the gemstone as it formed. Amethyst and Citrine are both types of Quartz that are coloured by iron, with Amethyst turning to Citrine at higher temperatures. This remarkable occurrence is nigh-on impossible to recreate, leaving this bi-colour beauty as a scarce gift from Mother Nature herself. GEMPOR IA .COM/AME TRI N E -J E W E L L E RY

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

ALL ABOUT HALLMARKING

ALL ABOUT

HALLMA Words by D A N M O R R I S

While admiring your favourite jewellery pieces, have you ever spotted a tiny row of intricate symbols stamped into the metalwork? This is a hallmark, and whenever you buy anything that’s been crafted from precious metal in the UK, it is legally required to be hallmarked. But when and why did the need for hallmarking first arise, and what do the symbols mean? Let’s take a closer look.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF HALLMARKING Hallmarking is one of the oldest forms of

little way of knowing whether or not they were

consumer protection in history, and it has

buying the real thing.

been part of the precious metal industry in the UK for over 700 years. It was formally

After the passing of the statute, silver had to

introduced in the year 1300 with the passing

meet a standard of 92.5% purity (now known

of a statute by King Edward I of England, which

as sterling silver) and gold had to be at least

set forth the requirement of a stamp or ‘mark’

83.4% pure, which is 20 karat. Workers known

to be made on all pieces of silver, though this

as ‘guardians of the craft’, who were initially

was later extended to include gold too. It was

chosen by the mayor of London, would visit

a necessary introduction for two reasons.

the silver and goldsmiths of the city, test the

Firstly, it significantly cut down on fraud, as

purity of the metalwork, and if it met the

it stopped dishonest traders from mixing

standard the piece would be stamped with a

their gold and silver with more common and

leopard’s head mark. This was the first ever

inexpensive metals and selling the resulting

hallmark, and would later become the fineness

wares as pure. Secondly, it protected honest

mark numeral that is still in use today.

traders from unfair competition. Before the change, consumers of the day would have had 32

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

ARKING

ALL ABOUT HALLMARKING

the

practice

continued

grow,

the

1420s,

London’s

monopoly

responsibility for marking items passed to the

hallmarking was over and there were several

Goldsmiths' Guild of London, who were based

other assay offices operating in England. This

at Goldsmiths' Hall. The guild was responsible

led to the introduction of a third mark, known

for regulating the trade of goldsmiths and

as the ‘town mark’, so it was possible to trace a

silversmiths. Eventually, rather than going out

piece back to where it was tested and stamped.

to the individual workshops to mark precious

London inherited the leopard’s head as its ‘town

metalware, it became the responsibility of the

mark’, which remains in use to this day. From

maker to take their wares to Goldsmiths' Hall

1457 there was an assay office in Edinburgh

for testing. This change in practice ultimately

providing the same service for Scottish gold

gave us the word hallmarking, meaning the

and silversmiths and in 1478 a fourth mark, the

‘mark of the hall’.

'date letter', was introduced as a way of marking each piece with the year in which it had been

At this point, the hallmark was still just a

hallmarked. These four symbols would be

leopard’s head. In 1363, a second mark was

compulsory on every single hallmarked item

added called the ‘maker’s mark’, which was an

for over 500 years until the date letter became

identifier for the person who made the piece.

optional in 1998.

If any gold or silver was found to be below the required standard, the maker could then be traced through their mark, records of which were kept at Goldsmiths' Hall, and punished for their deception.

CHANGING PURITY STANDARDS 1575 Gold standard raised to 91.6% (22 karat) 1697 Silver standard raised to 95.8% (Britannia silver) 1720 Sterling silver (92.5%) reinstated alongside Britannia silver 1798 Gold standard lowered to 75% (18 karat) 1854 Gold standards of 37.5% (9 karat), 50% (12 karat) and 62.5%

(15 karat) are introduced, though 18 karat and 22 karat remain in use 1932 Gold standard of 58.5% (14 karat) replaces 12k and 15k 1975 Platinum added to hallmarked metals in purities of 85%, 90%, 95% and 99.9% 2010 Palladium added to hallmarked metals in purities of 50%, 95% and 99.9%

HALLMARKING IN BIRMINGHAM There are four assay offices still operating in the UK, located in Birmingham, Sheffield, Edinburgh and London. The word ‘assay’ itself is thought to come from the Old French word ‘essai’ zmeaning ‘trial’. Each assay office has a distinct mark, the aforementioned ‘town mark’, that makes up part of the hallmark itself. The one you’ll see on Gemporia pieces is the anchor, as our jewellery is hallmarked by the Birmingham Assay Office. How the anchor came to be associated with a landlocked city is believed to be down to how the office was initially founded back in 1773. At the time, many jewellers and silversmiths in the area were limited to having their work hallmarked in one of the two nearest assay offices of the day, London or Chester (which closed in 1962), both a significant distance away. Industrial Revolution pioneer Matthew Boulton didn’t like the bottleneck this long journey caused his Birmingham business and was concerned that his designs could be copied. After joining forces with other Birmingham businesses and disgruntled workers in Sheffield too, who were experiencing the same problem, the contingent petitioned parliament on the issue. Despite opposition from other assay offices the two cities were successful, and were permitted to found their own hallmarking centres. The legend goes that just before the two new offices were established, both parties met at the Crown and Anchor pub on the Strand in London to decide how to proceed. When it came to picking their defining marks, they were inspired by the name of the tavern and flipped a coin to decide who got the crown and who got the anchor. Sheffield won the toss and picked the crown (which they later changed to the White Rose of York in 1977) and Birmingham therefore took the anchor. As well as Chester, there have also been assay offices in Exeter, Glasgow, Newcastle, Norwich and York at various points in time. Items hallmarked in any of these defunct assay offices can see their value go up as serious collectors look to get hold of these rare hallmarks.

ALL ABOUT HALLMARKING

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

WHERE CAN I FIND MY HALLMARK? Firstly you’ll need a 10x jewellery loupe or a good magnifying glass so you can get a closer look at your jewellery. On rings the hallmark will usually be on the shank of the ring. On earrings it can depend on the design but if it’s not on the back of the metalwork check the posts as sometimes this is the only practical place to stamp. Bracelets and necklaces often have their stamps on, or very near, the clasp. Pendants usually have theirs on the rear of the metalwork. Remember that pieces below a certain weight aren’t hallmarked. Silver, in particular, needs to weigh 7.78 grams or more to be stamped.

ALL ABOUT HALLMARKING

WHAT MAKES UP A HALLMARK? In the modern age, there are minimum weights at which hallmarking becomes a legal requirement. All gold and palladium items weighing 1 gram or above, platinum weighing 0.5 grams or above and silver weighing 7.78 grams or above must be hallmarked by law. Anything under these weights is exempt and won’t feature a hallmark. THREE COMPULSORY SYMBOLS MUST BE PRESENT ON THE HALLMARK. THEY ARE THE SPONSOR’S MARK, THE FINENESS MARK AND THE ASSAY OFFICE MARK.

THE SPONSOR'S MARK This is the mark of the company that manufactured the piece. In the case of jewellery you receive from us, our most recent pieces feature the Gemporia ‘G’ inside a shield. Historically we’ve also used the initials GTV (for Gems TV) and TGGC (for The Genuine Gemstone Company).

THE FINENESS MARK This tells you how pure the metal is, and is shown in parts per thousand. For example, sterling silver is 925 parts pure silver per 1000 parts (the remaining parts being made up of an alloy to strengthen the metal). For the highest purity, the mark 999 is used rather than 1000 because it’s virtually impossible to remove every last trace of impurity.

SILVER

800

925

958

999

STERLING

BRITANNIA

375

585

750

916

9 KARAT

14 KARAT

18 KARAT

22 KARAT

950

999

GOLD

PL ATINUM

850 38

900

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

990

999

THE ASSAY OFFICE TOWN MARK This mark tells you the assay office that marked the piece. In the UK, these are:

LONDON

BIRMINGHAM

SHEFFIELD

EDINBURGH

Until 1998 it was also a legal requirement to have a date letter stamped on the piece, but the tradition continues as an optional extra mark that Gemporia is only too happy to use.

DATE LETTER Date letters run from A to Z, with a change in typeface and sometimes case every time the alphabet resets. Sometimes, the 'i' or the 'j' is skipped as they’re so similar and occur concurrently. Since the year 2000, the date letter has been a simple lowercase font inside an octagon shape. We first started selling jewellery in 2004, meaning our first pieces were hallmarked with an 'e', and this year we’re up to 'x'. The next time we skip back to 'a' will be in 2025. Date letter designs were only standardised in more recent times so if you’re trying to date an antique, make sure to research the specific date letter designs of the assay office that marked the piece. TYPICAL STERLING SILVER HALLMARK

925

TYPICAL 9K GOLD HALLMARK

375

CARAT OR KARAT? WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? Traditionally, the word ‘carat’ has been used to describe both the weight of a gemstone, such as ‘1 carat Diamond’ and also the purity of gold, such as ‘24 carat gold’. To differentiate the two, Gemporia has always used the alternate ‘karat’ with a ‘k’ for gold purity, which is why you’ll see our gold jewellery listed as 9K, 14K and 18K in their descriptions. 39

ALL ABOUT HALLMARKING

OTHER STAMPS FOUND ON GEMPORIA JEWELLERY With the pieces you get from us, even when items fall below the required weight, you’ll still find the Gemporia ‘G’ stamp and a mark of the metal purity, such as ‘925’ on silver jewellery or ‘10K’ on gold, as long as there’s room to stamp the jewellery without damaging it. You’ll find this on every piece, even if it’s also hallmarked. If you buy one of our exquisite Lorique Collection pieces it will also be marked with the Lorique name and a unique number telling you the design number and year of creation. For example, in the picture on the opening spread of this feature, the number 2312-16 tells you it was the 2,312th piece we made in 2016. You’ll also notice the ‘maker’s mark’ is ‘LQ’ on these pieces.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

HALLMARKING TODAY The peak year for hallmarking items was 2003 when 34.7 million items were stamped by the four UK assay offices. This had dropped to 9.7 million in 2016 largely because the price of gold shot up incredibly quickly. Gold cost nearly six times more to buy in 2010 than it did in 2000, and silver went up almost tenfold in the same period. Fashion has also favoured silver in recent years which only requires a hallmark when weighing over 7.78 grams, meaning many pieces didn’t need to go to assay. The pandemic also had a significant impact on hallmarking numbers through 2020 and 2021. Despite this nationwide decline of over 70%, assay offices have continued to innovate and adapt. London and Edinburgh now have sub-offices at Heathrow Airport to get new items stamped as soon as they get to the UK. Birmingham went one further in 2016 and opened a sub-office in Mumbai, India, one of the world’s biggest jewellery making hubs, though this has now closed. Birmingham also has a gem grading lab and jewellery valuation division, and the assay office here moved to state-of-the-art new premises in 2015. The most recent major change to hallmarking came on January 1st 2021, when obligations to recognise equivalent hallmarks from EU nations ended. This means any piece of jewellery imported with a European hallmark from that date onwards has to be re-hallmarked at one of the four UK assay offices to be legally sold. It may be 722 years since the practice formally began, but hallmarking is as important as ever. Whether you’d ever noticed these tiny symbols or not, they’ve been protecting us against fake goods and fraud for generations. One day, the piece you bought most recently will be an antique, and these four little marks will tell an important part of the story of your piece.

NINE KARAT OR TEN KARAT? If you’ve ever seen a 10K stamp on your 9K gold ring and wondered why, it's because we sell our jewellery globally. To meet the purity specifications of other countries we make a lot of our gold jewellery at 10 karat (41.7%) purity. There’s no specification for 10K jewellery in the UK, so the nearest legal hallmark it can be given is for 9K. It’s less expensive to do this than to make each design twice in different purities, so we make everything in 10K and pass the saving on to you. 41

Take a break from tradition as classic meets contemporary with our brand new web-exclusive collection, Perla. Containing a fusion of organic, one-of-a-kind Pearls and beautifully crafted chains, each of the designs within the Perla collection can be worn alone or stylishly layered together. The diversity of Perla allows you to use one of the ocean’s finest creations to form a natural-yet-modern look that’s as individual and unique as you are. They’re just perfect for the upcoming season – how will you wear yours? GEMPORIA .COM/PERLA -COLLECTION

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Watch on Sky 674, Freeview 72/73, Freesat 807, or YouTube

and jewellery from Gemporia, have you ever fancied making your own jewellery?

JewelleryMaker is a TV show bringing

setting, wirework, kumihimo and much

you expert demonstrations in

more. We are proud to bring you

jewellery making techniques such as

genuine gemstones at fantastic prices

silversmithing, seed beading, gem

as well as all the tools to get you started.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Watch daily from 8am-5pm: Sky 674, or Freesat 807 8am-1pm: Freeview 72 and 1pm-5pm on Freeview 73.

Facebook Group /JewelleryMaker

Learn and be inspired by our expert demonstrations in gem setting, wirework, seed beading and much more.

Join our jewellery making community on social media and catch up on past demos on YouTube.

Shop online at JewelleryMaker.com or via our UK call centre on 0800 6444 655.

Facebook

YouTube Live

YouTube Tutorials

/JewelleryMakerUK

/JewelleryMakerTutorials

Instagram

TikTok

/JewelleryMakerUK

/JewelleryMakers

You can also watch live or catch up on YouTube or

www.JewelleryMaker.com 49

CHER ALENE’S Style Edit

i, I hope the first part of 2022 has been kind to you. If I’ve learnt anything from the past couple of years it’s to hold family and friends close and to appreciate the things in life that make us smile. For me, wearing things that make me feel good is so important as it makes me feel more confident. Plus my outfit never feels complete without jewellery.

There’s a trend for every jewellery lover this season. If you’re someone who gravitates towards the same piece each day, now is your chance to mix it up and add something different. Why don’t you add a splash of colour and fun to an outfit with a chunky necklace or a quirky bracelet? Let your personality blossom through your accessories. This season anything goes. Everyone is still talking about Pearls! A legacy look with a contemporary twist, like this necklace, is my favourite. MARF12

I’m simply obsessed with statement earrings. These hexagonal hoop earrings are perfect for any occasion. Plus, you can individualise them by adding a gemstone charm. VHBM30

Want to add a splash of colour to your outfit? I’ve got you covered. NCTQ85

Arm cuffs are back with a bang. They’re something you can wear every day, but also have a holiday beach vibe. VBEX85

Away from jewellery, my favourite product at the moment is Visage Primer. Since using it, my face feels so smooth. My makeup goes on so much better, and stays in place all day. I’ve never used a better one! So if you haven’t tried it yet, give it a go. VTLC29

Want to know what colours everyone is talking about at the moment? Well you can find out over the next few pages. Until next time, take care.

Cheralene x 51

Popping

POPCORN A bright and cheery yellow that radiates warmth. This colour embodies happiness.

From top: Mojave Glaze Yellow Large Vase UHBQ40 | Bolivian Natural Champagne Quartz Sterling Silver Necklace ZMSE25 | Bang Kacha Sapphire & White Zircon Sterling Silver Pendant GWDS06 | Ambilobe Sphene & Diamond Sterling Silver Ring GYCU20 | Dreamcatcher Handbag Charm with Gemstones BYYQ45 | Natural Yellow & White Diamond 9K Gold Earrings PZKK08 52

Coffee

QUARTZ Glamorous, luxurious, suave. This is an everyday colour that you can dress up or down.

From top: Chloe Brown Cat’s Eye Design Sunglasses VBMN01 | Argyle Diamond 18K Gold Pendant NWKK91 | Champagne Diamond 9K Gold Ring KFKK47 | Sopa Andalusite Midas Moscow Eggs Pendant RNWM35 | Gouveia Andalusite Sterling Silver Ring ITSE70 | Visage Bronzer ASLC53 53

Bubblegum PINK

Playful, positive and fun. This is the time to stand out as pink has never been more popular. From top: Destello Empress Pink Tigers Silk Scarf WOVT41 | Pink Opal & White Zircon Sterling Silver Necklace DSWM98 | Pure Pink Topaz Sterling Silver Ring JIGL85 | Pink Quartz Rose Midas Pendant LBWM98 | Natural Pink Fluorite & White Zircon 9K Gold Ring MBGL92 | Pink Tourmaline Sterling Silver Ring SHBM04 54

Purple

BREEZE Creative and bold! This colour displays a daring confidence and allows you to express yourself.

From top: Destello Ultimate Skirt HXSD65 | Sterling Silver Milano Slider Bracelet GFTQ04 | Mahenge Purple Spinel & White Zircon 9K Gold Ring WTTQ18 | Purple Fluorite Sterling Silver Ring QOGL69 | Rose De France Amethyst & White Zircon Sterling Silver Pendant BDRJ95 | Marambaia Violet Topaz Sterling Silver Ring CGLW46 55

THAT

GEMPORIA

GIRL

Blossom From the Inside Out

t’s that time of year to step out of winter with a spring in your step. Congratulations if you’ve managed to keep your New Year’s resolutions for this long. I’ll let you into a little secret; I haven’t. New year, same old me! Sometimes it doesn’t hurt to fall into old ways, especially after the past couple of years. We have had so much of our lives restricted; let’s not put more pressure on ourselves. That being said, we’ve had plenty of time now to shake off our winter blues, ditch our big coats and make some positive amendments to our day-to-day life to make us feel a bit better. So, throw open the windows, fill your lungs and home with fresh air and read my simple tips to make each day a little brighter.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

ME O’CLOC K Two questions. How many times have you heard that you should make time for yourself? And how many times have you actually listened to that advice? It’s one of the simplest things we all know we should do, but we can lose sight of looking after ourselves with our busy lives, especially when we are responsible for looking after someone else. When I say ‘find some me time’, it’s not just a quiet moment with a drink or a book. It’s finding a space where you feel comfortable. Somewhere you can switch off or feel inspired, whatever allows you to be unapologetically yourself. Indulge in ‘me time’ and don’t feel bad for one minute. We all deserve time to be ourselves. THE NEXT RIGHT S TEP Trying to plan and do too many things can be very overwhelming, and it can take its toll on our health and wellbeing. If you’re struggling with to-do lists or have so many ideas floating around you need a little grounding, then think: ‘what is the next right step’? A friend once reminded me that you need each rung of a ladder to get to the top. Small gestures and steps lead to big things, so take it one thing at a time. We don’t need to make massive leaps to get to where we want to be. KEEP THE PL ANS YOU MAKE Making plans is one thing but keeping them is another. When we haven’t spent much time with loved ones, it can be easy to get carried away with grand plans that seem more unlikely the closer they get. So set some mini-dates and keep to them, walks in the park or a cup of tea and shared cake in the local café. It’s these precious moments most of us miss, so don’t forget how good the simple things can be. Whether your spring cleaning includes dusting your house within an inch of its life or clearing out some bad habits, remember to do what’s right for you. Look after yourself, take in every moment and look ahead with positivity. While the flowers are blooming around us, remember there’s a reason why they blossom from the inside out.

That Gemporia Girl xxx 57

Fancy trying quilting? Or improving your dressmaking skills? Tune into Sewing Street with our daily FREE demonstrations! Sewing Street is a TV show dedicated to sewing. We bring the expert advice and tutorials into your living room with demonstrations in dressmaking, bag making, quilting, embroidery, needle felting and all things sewing. With tutorials for all abilities, whether you’re new to the craft or a seasoned sewist, our experts guide you step-by-step through a variety of makes.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

You can watch any of our demonstrations back on YouTube too! We also have a fabulous community on our Facebook group ‘Sewing Street Fans’ where members share their makes and advice. Be inspired, educated and entertained daily with Sewing Street on Freeview 73, Sky 670 or our YouTube channel.

Watch daily from 8am-1pm on Freeview 73, Sky 670 or our YouTube channel.

Join our sewing community on social media and catch up on past demos on YouTube.

Shop online at www.SewingStreet.com or via our UK call centre on 0800 001 44 33.

Learn and be inspired by our expert demonstrations in sewing, quilting & cross stitch.

SewingStreetTV

@SewingStreet

SewingStreet

www.SewingStreet.com *T&Cs apply. Free standard delivery. Code is valid until 31/05/22, can only be used once and not in conjunction with any other offer.

My Favourite Look

Gemma Roebuck Content Lead I’ve been working at Gemporia for over seven years. I’m not sure where all that time has gone! I love the creative nature of my job and getting to be surrounded by amazing gemstones and jewellery. When I started, I had no clue about gems, but my knowledge has just grown and grown over the years. I’ve learned about classics such as Emerald to rarer gems like Csarite®.

LABRADORITE MIDAS ARYONNA EARRINGS YHCS63

Labradorite was the first piece of jewellery I bought after starting my job at Gemporia, and it’s still one of my favourites. I love the flashes of blue that emerge as it catches the light. These statement drop earrings are new to our webexclusive collection and something I’ll definitely be adding to my jewellery box.

ANAHI AMETRINE STERLING SILVER RING CHGL83

The fact that Ametrine naturally forms to showcase a split of both Amethyst and Citrine still amazes me. The colour combination is perfect for spring, and I love the simplicity of the gemstone set with sterling silver.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

BAROQUE CULTURED PEARL GOLD TONE STERLING SILVER NECKLACE PLRF85

Pearls are usually considered a classic gem but these Baroque Pearls paired with chain detailing really give the gemstone a modern update. I can’t wait to layer these with textured chains for spring.

MOLTE LETTER A CHARM, HEX HOOP EARRINGS AND AMAZONITE OVAL CHARM IN STERLING SILVER VHBM30 | MGCS29 | OAWM83

Pieces from our Molte collection are my go-to for every day. I love how interchangeable the designs are, and my current favourites are my hex earrings, Amazonite charms and ‘A’ charm for my little boy’s initial.

2CT AQUAMARINE GOLD TONE STERLING SILVER RING IRCJ65

Although I usually favour silver over gold, something about the combination of subtle blues and gold reminds me of summer. I love the carved details on the band of this ring, and as Aquamarine is my birthstone, it’s the perfect choice for the new season.

GEMPORIA CRAFT UPDATE

CRAFT UPDATE

Welcome one and welcome all to our spring Gemporia Craft update. We hope you’re enjoying the season and are brimming with crafting supplies, ready to make the most beautiful jewellery, fabric and knitting items for the months ahead. You know where to find us if you need any inspiration or top-ups for your stash. JewelleryMaker Update As ever, we’ve been busy behind the scenes making your crafting experiences with us even better, and we’ve lots of exciting news to share with you this issue, beginning with the recent move of our JewelleryMaker channel. After six years in the small but perfectly formed studio just down the road from the main Gemporia building, December 2021 saw the entire JewelleryMaker operation move into a brand new, purpose-built studio and gallery back at Gemporia Towers. Sandwiched neatly between our Gemporia and Gemporia Lifestyle studios, JM’s new home is a 62

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

much bigger space, allowing for more extensive demonstrations, more items in every show and exciting new segments in the schedule. Full of state-of-the-art broadcast equipment in both the studio and adjacent gallery (the control room for the programme), the move has placed JewelleryMaker in the perfect position to continue growing and innovating for the coming years. We hope you can join us for all the fun.

Yarn Lane Update There’s plenty of activity on Yarn Lane this season, too, with inspiration for springtime projects and easy-to-follow demos by our fabulous designers. Also, the lovely Stuart Hillard is getting ready to launch the most amazing range of brand new yarns in the coming weeks. Stay tuned to the channel to be the first to see what Stuart has created and the first to get these must own yarns into your crafting stash.

Sewing Street Update Make sure you take a special trip down Sewing Street at the beginning of March, as the channel marks being on-air for two whole years! There’s much to celebrate, and Sewing Street will be marking the occasion with a series of special events. To start with, look out for our specially extended 8-hour shows, beginning at 8am and running right through to 4pm. We’ll be packing these extended birthday shows full of fabulous giveaways too, not to mention lots of brand new projects and inspiration for the months ahead. And our fantastic hosts will, of course, be joined by an array of very special guests, bringing you easy to follow and innovative demonstrations packed full of ideas for your projects. Don’t miss the deals - only on Sewing Street this March.

It’s going to be a packed few months here at Gemporia Craft, and whether you’re an established crafter or a brand new starter, you are very welcome to join us for a wealth of shows across many crafting disciplines. We’re here with all the advice, tools and friendly guests for you to take your hobby to the next level. See page 112 for all the information on where to find us. Your Magaine We’d love to know what you’d like to see in the crafting pages of this magazine in future issues. Whether it’s more behind-the-scenes features, step-by-step technique tutorials or design inspiration - indeed, anything at all you’d like to know more about - you can email the magazine team at gemology@gemporia.com. 63

GEMPORIA CRAFT UPDATE

A catch up with

Elena Stephens It’s always nice to have a good catch up with one of our fabulous presenters. In this issue, we’re chatting with JM host Elena Stephens about her exciting new collection, her ten years so far as part of the Gemporia Partnership, and how she feels about visiting the Tucson Gem Show for the first time. Hi Elena! How are you, and how has life been treating you?

Hi, I am very well, thank you. Life is wonderful and busy; I juggle work and being a mum of two fabulous girls, Willow and Tiggy, who are five years old and 13 months old, respectively. My husband Tom helps hold the fort too. We are the ultimate team.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

For those who may not have met you before, how long have you been at

JewelleryMaker, and how did you first get involved with jewellery making?

I have been part of the JewelleryMaker

family since 2011. I originally started as a project manager working alongside the designers and management team. My

career developed into presenting when

Steve and Sarah Bennett discovered my

background in the jewellery industry and decided to throw me in at the deep end. Whilst my experience was in already

created fine jewellery, I quickly developed the jewellery making bug.

You’ve presented on Gemporia too - have you always been into jewellery, crafting and gemstones?

Yes, I started presenting on Gems TV, as it

was known, which was equally wonderful. I remember my first show so vividly. I was

literally shaking with nerves! Presenting on

live TV was a very different experience from what I was used to.

My passion for jewellery and gemstones started at a very young age. My mum

told me a story of a three-year-old Elena losing her engagement ring because I

was always looking in her jewellery box. I

cannot actually ever remember not loving jewellery, much to my husband’s dismay,

I’m sure. In terms of creativity and craft, it’s always been a love of mine. I love to draw and paint, not just on paper either. I’m

massively into interior design which I am currently studying from home.

GEMPORIA CRAFT UPDATE

What are your favourite gemstones today, and have they changed over the years?

Years ago, I was all about Diamonds,

which of course, I still love. But Gemporia has taught me so much about the

wonderful world of coloured stones.

These days I adore Tsavorite Garnet, Malachite, Emerald, Ruby; gosh, can

anyone actually answer this question? There aren’t many I wouldn’t get excited about.

What are your favourite jewellery making techniques and why?

Regular viewers of JewelleryMaker could

answer this in a heartbeat. You can’t beat

a good old stretchy bracelet! Super quick, simple to make and perfectly wearable. You and the JM team have just moved

back to our main Gemporia building into a brand new studio. How was the move, and what’s it been like adjusting to the new studio and gallery?

Yes, we have! And we are all so happy to be under the same roof. While it was like

saying goodbye to a loyal friend when we

moved out of Ivy House, it was definitely a

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

positive move. The new studio is incredible! Modern and cutting edge. We have some

of the best technology now, which means camera shots and demonstrations are perfectly sharp. We have space! I get

excited by this because our lovely little

studio before was somewhat compact.

And most importantly, we get to see our colleagues across Gemporia every day. We’re very excited to hear you’ve

launched your own collection - Willow &

Tig. Can you tell us about your inspiration and what the collection features?

Hearing ‘Willow & Tig Collection’ still fills me with excitement! Yes, I have had the privilege of launching some of my own

designs, which I’m delighted to say were

wonderfully received by our viewers. The

launch show was emotional and heartfelt, with casual discussions about individual experiences relating to each specific

design. My inspiration was pretty much

life. The milestones, be they high or low, the experiences, challenges and aspirations

we each hold. I was passionate about it not being about me. This collection is about

each wearer, and each piece will have a

personal and individual meaning to them.

What was your design process for creating Willow & Tig?

Believe it or not, it wasn’t a vision of design. I began with a feeling, an

emotion or experience that I had had. For example, the acorn was inspired by becoming a mother. A favourite quote of mine is, ‘From tiny acorns,

And there are more in the development stages. I’m particularly excited about

an Opal octopus piece that is all about overcoming fear. I should also perhaps mention that these aren’t just charms.

They have been customised to be both charms and pendants.

great oaks grow’. I interpret that as

What’s the story behind the name?

might be different from others. The

fancy French name or something

our natural instinct to nurture, but that Amber tear was representative of grief. Having experienced loss, as sadly we

all will, that piece was about learning to continue without that missing

person. This is just a couple of designs described, but I think they give a good flavour of the whole collection.

What are the reasons behind the charms that you picked?

As I touched on above, each piece was designed around important emotions

or ambitions. It’s not purely sentiment, though. As well as the pieces above, I designed a globe for ambition, a dandelion that represents wishes

and dreams, and a pod of peas that

symbolises our nearest and dearest.

Of course, I could have gone with a

poetic, but no matter how hard I tried,

I kept coming back to Willow & Tig. The collection is named after my beautiful girls, my pride and joy.

What has the reaction been to your collection so far?

I am completely overwhelmed by the

reaction! The launch show was a sell-

out, and following that, I had wonderful

feedback and ideas filtered to me from our lovely customers. I was incredibly nervous launching the collection

because it’s so very personal, and the reveal really involved me opening up

massively on live TV. Of course, I didn’t mind sharing because I knew I was amongst friends.

GEMPORIA CRAFT UPDATE

Will you be adding any more items to the

absolutely. It’s an ideal chance to look at

Oh, there are definitely more! I’m so

cuts of beads that might be new to our

collection soon?

excited about the pieces on the horizon.

I’m currently sketching a luxury suite that is hopefully launching during the next JewelleryMaker birthday in May.

At the time of writing, you’re about to head off to the Tucson Gem Show in

Arizona. Have you ever been to a show

like this before, and how excited are you? I literally cannot wait for Tucson. I jumped at the chance to go. Ask anyone who

dreams of gemstones and jewellery; it’s the ultimate opportunity. I have never

been to anything remotely close to the

scale of Tucson, so yes, I’m extra excited.

Native American designs and different JM portfolio.

What is it about JewelleryMaker that you love so much?

Gosh, where do I start? JewelleryMaker

really is unique. Yes, we are a shopping channel, but it’s so much more than

that for me. We know our viewers, and we share that same mutual passion.

With everything that the world has been through these past two years, I’d like to

think we are that constant familiar face. And likewise, that is how the JM team

feel about our customers. One big, crazy, creative family.

What are you hoping to find at the show?

Who are your on-air team, and what do

or will you be hunting for the best gems

I get to work with some of my favourite

Do you have a dream list of acquisitions, and biggest deals when you’re on the show floor?

I’ve got certain gemstones on my radar. As it’s the American show, I’m definitely

going to be looking at local offerings. I’ll

be hunting for Sleeping Beauty Turquoise parcels and Kingman Turquoise, too, as

we haven’t really had it on JM. I’d love to

be able to bring back some Ammolite and Tiffany Opal. Of course, though, if I see

a deal too good to pass, I won’t let that opportunity slip.

Will you be shopping for any new tools

they do?

people every day. Some might say

they’re the dream team. Producer Liam is just ace! I actually love the bones of

him. Director Adam is one of the gentlest souls you’ll ever meet. Tech Op Adam or ‘Daddy’ Adam (new dad of twins) is just

lovely and so funny! Luscious Lucy on floor managing duties, I genuinely would be

lost without her perfectly organised brain. And I must mention Wayne, our manager who motivates, inspires and makes us

giggle all the time. These genuinely are some of life’s best people.

and techniques?

Which guest designers do you regularly

underqualified in that field, especially

The beauty of JewelleryMaker is that I

Not necessarily tools. I feel I’m

surrounded by the talents of our guest

designers. But inspiration and techniques, 68

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

work with?

get to work with them all! Every show, I’m in awe of the skills and creativity they

consistently bring to our screens. To

come up with so many new designs and ideas is fantastic. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again; if I had one iota of their talent, I’d be happy.

When can we see you on TV?

I present the morning show on

JewelleryMaker, which is live from 8am to 1pm. Come and say hi!

What would you say to anyone who had never tried making their own jewellery

before, who may be a little apprehensive about taking it up as a hobby?

I’ve been part of JM for ten years, and I’d still class myself as a beginner. Do you

know why? Because I create what I wear. I like simple elegance. Jewellery making

doesn’t have to be the most complex of techniques. Come and give it a go; I’ll

teach you the perfect stretchy bracelet or maybe a little macramé. Above that, I’ll

hand you to our designers. JM is one of the most welcoming places. Everyone from staff to viewers are at hand to help and inspire you.

How can we follow you on social media? You can find me on Facebook, where my page is ‘Elena Stephens Presenter’ or on Instagram at ‘elleloustephens’.

Thanks so much for chatting with us,

Elena. Best wishes for the new collection, and we look forward to seeing you on TV very soon.

CARBON NEUTRAL AT G EMP O RI A by L O U I S E K N I G H T

Businesses account for more than 85% of the UK’s total greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, also known as our ‘carbon footprint’. As a result, corporate action is the main priority in helping to prevent climate change – which is why we are proud to be a carbon neutral business as of November 2021. Here at Gemporia, we are committed to doing our part for the environment and have worked hard to achieve carbon neutral status. By working closely with Carbon Neutral Britain, we have reduced and offset our UK emissions through various projects that will play their part in moving us all towards a more sustainable world.

CARBON NEUTRAL BRITAIN Carbon Neutral Britain is the UK’s leading carbon offsetting initiative and aids businesses and organisations in reducing their carbon footprint to tackle climate change. To help UK corporations identify their areas of improvement, Carbon Neutral Britain conducts carbon emissions reports which reveal the company’s total carbon footprint and highlight the parts of the business that contribute to their overall emissions. We engaged with Carbon Neutral Britain in July 2021 to calculate our total carbon footprint in order to offset these emissions and become carbon neutral. As a result, Gemporia is now a proud carbon neutral business.

WHAT IS CARBON NEUTRAL? Carbon neutral refers to the state of net-zero carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions. To achieve carbon neutrality, carbon dioxide emissions in the atmosphere must be balanced with (or less than) the amount being removed. Or, the levels of CO2 must simply be removed altogether. UK businesses make up a large percentage of our carbon footprint, and as a large corporation ourselves, we at Gemporia have worked to reverse our environmental impact by adopting more sustainable working methods and offsetting our carbon emissions. With the help of Carbon Neutral Britain, we have now achieved carbon neutral status and are channelling our emissions into various global projects that work to preserve the environment.

CARBON NEUTRAL OFFSET TING PROJECTS These projects are internationally certified and have been selected based on their impact around the world, such as supporting education, employment, clean water, and the local wildlife and ecology. By offsetting our carbon emissions, we are helping to provide hydroelectric power in the Amazon Rainforest and wind farms in the Philippines. We are also aiding reforestation in Costa Rica and woodland management in Yorkshire.

WHAT THIS MEANS FOR US At Gemporia, we are incredibly proud to say that our UK operations have achieved this certified carbon neutral status. As we specialise in jewellery and craft products, our carbon emissions report identified that our primary emissions occurred from energy consumption in delivering products from international suppliers. As a result, we made it our mission to tackle this issue and ensure a permanent reduction in our carbon footprint. Therefore, when your order arrives, you will not only receive gemstones that have been sourced in an environmentally friendly manner, but the process of fulfilling your entire order is 100% carbon neutral too.

For more information visit Carbonneutralbritain.org

Fancy trying a new craft that’s all the rage and good for your mind? Yarn Lane is here to get you started!

Yarn Lane is a TV show dedicated to knitting, crochet and all things yarn. We bring the expert

With tutorials for all abilities whether you’re a knitting newbie or a crochet pro, our experts guide you step-by-

advice and tutorials into your living room with plenty of entertainment and inspirational makes too.

step through a variety of makes and tips on tricky techniques. You can watch any of our demonstrations back on YouTube.

Watch on Freeview 73, Sky 670 or our YouTube channel.

Join our crafting community on social media and catch up on past demos on YouTube.

Shop online at www.YarnLane.com or via our UK call centre on 0800 4 700 600.

Learn and be inspired by our expert demos in knitting, crochet and all things yarn.

YarnLaneTV

@YarnLaneTV

YarnLaneTV

www.YarnLane.com *T&Cs apply. Code is valid until 31/05/22, can only be used once, not in conjunction with any other offer and on a minimum spend of £15.

S P R I N G T I M E

Homewares Highlights A

s we head into 2022, our homewares from Gemporia at Home and Gem Auras by Jainey Bennett continue to grow and mature, with a fast-expanding and vast range of beautiful items for the home. This issue we’re also excited to introduce our new Blossom range of faux flowers, which you will have seen used on the front cover of this issue. Not only are they beautifully made and available in many colours and varieties, but they’re also everlasting and will bring spring vibes into your home every day of the year. GEMPORIA.COM/EXPLORE/HOMEWARES-SCHEDULE

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

The Blossom Collection...

A Thank You Gift That Lasts Dahlia, magnolia, rose, eucalyptus and cherry blossom stems have gone into this gorgeous bouquet that balances striking oranges with delicate pastel pinks and bright whites. The benefit of a faux flower arrangement such as this, especially as a gift, is that it lasts. NPFO29 | WPFO46.C1 | IRFO30 | MTFO42 | BHFO21 | LQFO89

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

A Permanent Addition To Your Decor Wildflower, wild carnation, delphinium and rose stalks go into this beautifully balanced and colourful arrangement. With faux flowers, you can make nature’s beauties a permanent addition to your home decor, without the expense and upkeep of fresh flowers every day or so. EJFO74 | JSFO60.O1 | MVFO95 | FJFO71 | ZYFO17 | UJFO58

In The Bedroom…...

Sweet Dreams Lavender Room Diffuser infused with Amethyst Gemstones Our sweet dreams room diffuser is infused with genuine Amethyst gemstones and a delightful lavender fragrance, a scent that has long been thought to aid relaxation and sleep. Place it on the coaster provided, and it will enchant your home with a beautiful scent. SLTU61

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Massage Candle with Gemstone Massage Tool Make some time for yourself with this gorgeous massage candle set, designed with pure luxury and relaxation in mind. It’s made from natural massage soy wax, fragranced with frangipane and comes with a genuine gemstone massage tool in either Rose Quartz or White Jade. HGXM36

Mother of Pearl…...

Large Mother of Pearl Vase Make a statement with this beautiful large vase, which has been carefully designed to display a pretty flower pattern made up from Mother of Pearl tiles. The textures and colours chosen for this vase are universal, meaning it will complement your decor wherever you place it. INXQ83 82

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Mother of Pearl Vase in Cream or Teal This gorgeous vase is available in cream or teal, offering the choice of a universal colour scheme for any room or space, or a Mediterranean inspired centrepiece shimmering with blues and greens. Perfect for displaying our new Blossom faux flowers. BOXQ31 83

PEARL Pearl is an organic jewel discovered in the oceans, a natural phenomenon of the deep that has become one of the most desired and most elegant of nature’s jewels. Effortlessly stylish and truly timeless, Pearl is a remarkably versatile gem that fits any jewellery style across the whole suite of rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces and pendants. Saying that a gemstone needs to be owned is often cliché, but with Pearl, a truer word was never spoken. They are the epitome of class, the heart of style and the centrepiece of any connoisseur’s collection. Find your forever piece with Gemporia. G EM P OR I A . COM / P EA R L - J E W E L L E RY

NotPerfect.AlwaysMe 86

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

H A N D - P I C K E D B Y…

@NotPerfect .AlwaysMe Interview by VA N E S S A G O R M A N

notperfect.alwaysme is a nail artist and fashion blogger with a passion for

genuine

gemstone

jewellery. She has recently

teamed up with Gemporia to hand-pick her own collection, a gorgeous mix of metals featuring classic and contemporary stones like Diamond, Sapphire, Pearl, Morganite and Opal. We caught up with her to get to know her a little better and chat about her and the classic and modern pieces she chose for her collaboration with us. GEMPORIA.COM/EXPLORE/NOTPERFECT.ALWAYSME_X_GEMPORIA

HI @NOTPERFECT.ALWAYSME, IT’S SO GOOD TO TALK TO YOU. COULD YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND THIS EXCITING NEW COLLABORATION?

Hello everyone, I’m Shanice from @notperfect.alwaysme. I absolutely adore gemstone jewellery! I’ve always had a love for all things that glitter, from my jewellery to clothes and my nail art which are a big passion of mine. I’m a bit of a magpie in that sense. I’ve teamed up with Gemporia to create my own hand-picked collection that encapsulates some of my favourite Gemporia pieces. I love to mix and match high-end pieces with more affordable pieces to create my own look. I hope you love my selection as much as I do. HOW ARE YOU, AND WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN UP TO?

I am really good, thank you and just really excited about 2022 and what it has to bring. Number 22 is my lucky number, so I have a good feeling about this year! I have been recovering from the festive period, as I’m sure most are! It is the most wonderful time of the year, but it’s such a busy time of year. CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF?

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

AS A NAIL ARTIST, DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FROM GEMSTONES OR JEWELLERY WHEN CREATING YOUR NAIL DESIGNS?

I definitely do! I love experimenting with different designs, from marbles to Moonstone and Pearl tones, and I love Quartz nails. They are a big, big trend and are great if you want something a bit creative but not too over the top. They are so easy to create, with so many colour variations.

I found it so fascinating, especially when she explained to me about Amber and that it can be millions of years old, and I loved that it had its own story.

I’m 27 years old and live in the countryside, but I wouldn’t say I’m a country girl, but I’m not a city girl either. I’m somewhere in the middle! I would describe myself as an introverted extrovert. I swear it’s like a split personality. Part of me is the life of the party, and yet part of me is quite 88

shy, but I’ve always been like that. I’d say I’ve grown out of my shyness a lot now, though, and I’ve just learned to embrace myself.

CAN YOU REMEMBER THE MOMENT WHEN GEMSTONE JEWELLERY FIRST CAME INTO YOUR LIFE, AND WHAT THE PIECE OF JEWELLERY WAS?

I remember I was probably around eight or nine, and a friend of my mum had a dainty heart-shaped Amber necklace with a piece of a plant encapsulated inside. I found it so fascinating, especially when she explained to me about Amber and that it can be millions of years old, and I loved that it had its own story. She got me one just like it, and I still have it now! WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE OF JEWELLERY YOU PURCHASED FROM GEMPORIA, AND WHAT DREW YOU TO IT?

It was a Morganite ring in 9K gold, and it was a trilliant cut. What drew me to it was the shape. I loved that it was a little different, not your traditional cut. I love classic cuts of stones, but it’s nice to mix it up and stand out with bolder designs. I loved the pale pink tone of the Morganite, and it was just a lovely piece, different yet elegant.

NOW THAT YOU’VE BEEN BEEN COLLECTING FROM

THIS IS A TOUGH ONE TO ANSWER, BUT DO YOU HAVE

GEMPORIA FOR A WHILE, HOW EXTENSIVE IS YOUR

A FAVOURITE PIECE IN YOUR COLLECTION?

JEWELLERY STASH?

It would be the Lehrer Cosmic Obelisk pendant which has Rose de France Amethyst, Turquoise, Optic Quartz and White Zircon. Wow, this piece is otherworldly. I love how it’s put together. It’s captivating, complex yet straightforward, and a real standout piece that I’m excited to have in my collection.

I have a lovely collection with different metals and tones. Honestly, I’m so lucky to have so many gorgeous pieces. Gemporia has opened my eyes to so many beautiful gemstones such as Pearl, Morganite, Tanzanite, Topaz, Ametrine; the list goes on! WHAT KIND OF DESIGNS ARE YOU MOST DRAWN TO?

I’m drawn to all kinds of designs. It depends where I’m going and what I’m doing. I generally don’t go for really large statement pieces, especially with rings, but I do have a couple that I wear on special occasions. WE’RE

VERY

BRINGING

EXCITED A

NEW

THAT

YOU’RE

HAND-PICKED

COLLECTION TO GEMPORIA. WHICH THREE GEMSTONES ARE YOU MOST DRAWN TO IN YOUR NEW COLLECTION AND WHY?

I love to mix and match silvers and golds, and you don’t have to be matching all the time. Stacking and layering are great and can be an asset to any look – but know when to stop.

Firstly the Argyle Diamond has become an absolute favourite of mine, and I’m excited to add it to my collection. I just love the colour of the Diamond, and I like that it comes from Australia, which is a country I desperately want to travel to one day – I’ve always been fascinated by it. Secondly, the South Sea Pearl as Pearl is classic and elegant. You can never go wrong with Pearls. They just have an air of glamour! Thirdly it would have to be Opal. It’s beautiful, and there is something very celestial about its array of colours and how it catches the light. It’s just a wonderful gemstone.

DO YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL STYLING TIPS WHEN IT COMES TO WEARING YOUR OWN GEMSTONE JEWELLERY?

Yes, I love to mix and match silvers and golds, and you don’t have to be matching all the time. Stacking and layering are great and can be an asset to any look – but know when to stop. In my opinion, less is more, especially when mixing metals. Wear one statement piece at a time. For example, if you’re wearing a big statement necklace, opt for more simple earrings or if wearing statement earrings, a more simple necklace, or even no necklace will work better. Otherwise, it can be a bit over the top. CAN WE KEEP UP WITH YOU AND WHAT YOU’RE DOING ON SOCIAL MEDIA?

Yes, of course, come and let me know about your favourite pieces from my collection and see how I style my jewels. You can keep up with me on Instagram, which you’ve probably already guessed is @notperfect.alwaysme.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TALKING TO US SHANICE. WE ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR JEWELLERY CHOICES AND ARE SO EXCITED TO SHARE THEM WITH OUR GEMPORIA COLLECTORS AND CONNOISSEURS.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

GEMPORIA.COM/EXPLORE/NOTPERFECT.ALWAYSME_X_GEMPORIA

NotPerfect.AlwaysMe

@ThePrimalLiving Excellent

Natural supplements and ideas for near immortals Trusted by thousands across the UK

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

5 star customer reviews

Turmeric Curcumin + Bioperine® 30 capsules. One per day.

Turmeric is packed full of antioxidants that are crucial for good health in general, thanks to curcumin, which is a bioactive compound in Turmeric, containing anti-inflammmatory and antioxidant properties. We believe turmeric is one of the key supplements everyone should take each day. Having joint pain can be a daily struggle, especially as we get older. Many of our customers are finding that by adding this supplement to their daily regime, signs of inflammation and joint pain are reducing - just check out their reviews! Our unique formula contains patented

Bioperine® which enhances absorption up to 20 times faster than the competition. While turmeric in curries carries benefits, to deliver curcumin to the areas where the magic happens and truly see benefits, it’s best consumed with black pepper. The details. Subscribe to Turmeric for £3.99, delivered every 30 days. Or purchase once for £4.99. How to order. Visit us online at www.PrimalLiving.com or place an order through the call centre on 0800 440 2888.

5 star customer reviews

Slimshotz Weight Loss Drink Available in Berry, Vanilla and Cherry flavour. 21 servings. 7 day programme.

Welcome to a new, clinically proven aid to weight loss. Formulated by British scientists, Slimshotz is the all-natural breakthrough in reducing unwanted excess body fat. Backed by science and independent research, Slimshotz represents a significant breakthrough in natural weight loss. Our main ingredient, Glucomannan, is a fibre that is carefully extracted from the Konjac plant and is currently the only ingredient to be officially recognised by the EU Commission as contributing towards weight loss.

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

This scientifically proven, wholesome fibre expands up to 50 times inside the stomach, setting off our stretch receptors and sending the hormone ‘leptin’ to the brain, which tells us we’re full. Slimshotz is crafted from 100% natural ingredients. The details. Subscribe to Slimshotz for £9.98, delivered every 30 days. Or purchase once for £14.99. How to order. Visit us online at www.PrimalLiving.com or place an order through the call centre on 0800 440 2888.

5 star customer reviews

Collagen Beauty Supplement Drink 10 x 6g powder sachets.

Because the collagen levels in our skin can start to decrease from as young as the age of 20, now is a great time to start taking a collagen supplement to keep your levels topped up. By taking an oral collagen supplement, collagen metabolism is affected past the epidermis (outer) layer of the skin and gets to work in the dermis (thickest) layer where collagen fibres are. Our collagen sachets contains 2,500mg of Verisol®. After taking a daily Verisol® collagen supplement, skin elasticity was found to increase, and the collagen in the skin increased by 60%. (Study provided by Verisol®.)

Our powder sachets are ideal for those with a busy lifestyle. Take them with you wherever you go, or prepare first thing in the morning before you start your day. Simple to prepare just empty one 6g sachet into a glass and top up with 200ml of cold water, give it a good stir, and it’s ready to drink. The details. Subscribe to Collagen for £9.99, delivered every 30 days. Or purchase once for £14.99. How to order. Visit us online at www.PrimalLiving.com or place an order through the call centre on 0800 440 2888.

Cookbook

5 star customer reviews

Interactive Journal 30 Day Supplements Membership Card

3 Health Wristbands

49 Day Health Reset Programme Learn how to permanently lose weight.

What will you achieve? 1. Lose weight. Learn how to lose weight permanently, without the need to count calories. 2. Never feel hungry. Discover a new relationship with food that never leaves you feeling hungry. 3. Be happy. We focus on the brain and not the belly, stimulating both happiness and freedom. With Health Reset, rather than fighting your hormones, we teach how to partner them, rewiring your primal instinct, so that weight loss becomes virtually effortless.

Success story... 96

The Health Reset changes your relationship with food, so that you never feel you are giving anything up. Instead it changes the foods you desire and crave. This facilitates a feeling of true freedom, happiness and adds life to your years. The details. Join today for £129 (normally (£199). Learn more at www.HealthReset.com. How to order. Visit us online at www.PrimalLiving.com or place an order through the call centre on 0800 440 2888.

"I just completed the Health Reset. The course is first class, if you follow it to the last day the rewards are great. I lost 10 pounds in weight and feel great. I am now in fat burning mode. I can now fast to one meal a day and don't miss the constant eating. Recommended course." Charles Chambers

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

Drink Me Gorgeous Beauty Supplement Effervescent Drink 20 effervescent tablets. Collagen formation. 5 star customer reviews

Looking to boost the condition of your hair, skin and nails? Our unique formulation in Drink Me Gorgeous contains 10 vitamins and minerals selected to boost the health and condition of hair, skin and nails, as well as helping to maintain your energy yielding metabolism. It’s never too early or too late in your beauty regime to tackle lifeless hair, skin or nails. We have packed our Drink Me Gorgeous tablets with vitamins A, E and riboflavin (vitamin B2), as well as selenium, copper and biotin - an altogether powerful combination to keep your hair and skin looking its best. Let’s not forget that all-important collagen formation, which is what vitamin C is so good at doing. Finally, we’ve included natural green tea, well known for its antioxidant properties, to protect cells from oxidative stress, which is what can cause ageing of skin and hair. The details. Subscribe to Drink Me Gorgeous for £4.99, delivered every 30 days. Or purchase once for £9.99. How to order. Visit us online at www.PrimalLiving.com or join through the call centre on 0800 440 2888.

*NRV - Nutrient Reference Value

www.PrimalLiving.com

0800 440 2888 97

The Quick Guide To…

GEMSTONE DUR ABILIT Y Words by D A N M O R R I S

urability is a crucial factor when considering your gemstone jewellery. It is one of the three main characteristics that allow a mineral to be classed as a gemstone, along with beauty and rarity. The higher the durability and resistance to wear, the more highly prized the gem will become. A gemstone must be durable enough to withstand the stresses and forces involved in faceting and setting in jewellery, along with standing up to everyday wear. There are three aspects of durability to consider: hardness, toughness and stability. • Hardness is the ability to resist scratching • Toughness is the ability to resist breaking or chipping • Stability is the resistance to changes caused by environmental factors such as temperature, chemicals or light Let’s take a brief look at how these three categories combine to define durability in nature’s greatest treasures.

HARDNESS Created by the German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs in 1832, the Mohs scale is used to measure the hardness of minerals. Mohs based his ranking on ten minerals available to him at the time. The hardest naturally occurring mineral, Diamond, is at the top of the scale and therefore is rated 10. Emerald measures 8, whilst Tsavorite measures 7 to 7.5. The fact that Emerald is harder than Tsavorite might make you think it is more durable than Tsavorite, but this is not the case. Emerald is simply less likely to be scratched, but it is more likely to be damaged by knocks and bangs due to its crystal structure. Whilst many scales and measurements in the world can be quite complex, the Mohs scale is incredibly simple. Imagine you have just discovered a new mineral. If it scratches Apatite (5 on the scale) but does not scratch Orthoclase (6 on the scale), your new discovery registers a hardness of 5.5 on the Mohs scale. However, due to the way the scale works, it simply ranks gems in order of their hardness. It does not tell you the difference in hardness, such as how much harder a gem that records 8 is than one that only reaches 6. For 98

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

example, with Diamonds at the top of the scale on 10, and Sapphire and Ruby next on the list at 9, the scale can’t convey that Diamonds are actually four times harder than Sapphire, or 30 times harder than Apatite at number 5 on Mohs scale.

TOUGHNESS Not to be confused with hardness, which relates to the surface ability of the gem to withstand scratches, the toughness of a gem has more to do with its ability to withstand hard impact and its resistance to fracturing. The toughness of a gem is just as crucial as its hardness, and knowledgeable lapidarists (gem cutters) will always consider the gem’s toughness when deciding what type of cut to apply. The less tough a gem, the more likely it is to have truncated corners and be step cut rather than brilliant cut. Jewellers also have to know which gemstones need to be better protected when setting them in jewellery. To understand toughness better, let’s think about Diamonds again. They are the hardest mineral known to man and are incredibly scratch resistant, yet they are not the toughest, meaning they are just as prone to chipping and fracturing as several other gemstones. This is worth knowing if you are going to hit a Diamond with a hammer for any reason!

STABILIT Y The final piece of our durability puzzle is stability. Gemstones are just as susceptible to wear and tear as anything else, although bearing in mind hardness and toughness too, they may last significantly longer before showing any outward signs of wear. Stability is an essential area to understand when it comes to jewellery care because understanding your gemstones on a more scientific level will help you keep your jewellery looking its best. Kunzite is a good example. It can lose its colour if exposed to sunlight for too long, so it should only really be worn at night - hence its title as ‘the evening gemstone’. Pearl is another excellent example, as it has very little defence against even the weakest of acids. This is why you should always put Pearls on last when getting ready and take them off first when back home. Hairspray and perfume are just two of the substances you don’t want to get anywhere near your precious Pearls. However, most gemstones are very stable and require nothing more than the same care and attention you’d show your other possessions. Ultimately, gems are meant to be worn, so leaving them in a dark cupboard and never wearing them should also be avoided. 99

Jewellery Matters with Toby Cavill Interview by D A N M O R R I S

t’s been an odd couple of years for everyone, and it’s been no different for the gemstone and

jewellery industry. As the light at the end of the tunnel starts to glow a little brighter, we caught up for a chat with our industry expert Toby Cavill for an update on how the pandemic has changed the way we do things and his plans for the next few months. We’ve also chatted about his experiences in the industry over the last two decades and about his exciting new collection of exquisite jewels set into gorgeous 18 karat gold. Read on for the full report.

100 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

101

HI TOBY, IT’S LOVELY TO TALK TO YOU AGAIN. THE LAST TIME WE SPOKE WAS IN OUR SUMMER 2020 ISSUE ALMOST TWO YEARS AGO, JUST AFTER THE START OF THE PANDEMIC. EVERYTHING WAS VERY MUCH UP IN THE AIR, AND YOU AND THE TEAM WERE CREATING NEW PROCESSES TO KEEP THE BUSINESS STABLE. LOOKING BACK NOW, HOW DIFFICULT A PERIOD WAS THAT FOR YOU?

Firstly, I can’t believe how quickly time has passed! Looking back on everything, ensuring everything on the gemstone front remained completely aligned and that we still had a fully functioning production line from start to finish proved very difficult as various countries were hit. It goes without saying that it was the most challenging time of my gemstone career to try and negotiate deals and produce jewellery without being able to travel and see various gemstones or people, for that matter. WOULD YOU SAY THINGS HAVE SETTLED DOWN NOW, THAT YOU’VE FOUND A ‘NEW NORMAL’ REGARDING SOURCING GEMSTONES?

I’m soon off to Tucson to go to the world’s biggest gemstone fair. Following that, I’ll be flying directly to Moscow to speak to a few private collectors and negotiating potentially a new gemstone deal.

I’m extremely lucky to have a team of experienced gemstone buyers around me. This makes my job a lot easier, as I’m able to focus on my primary objective of bringing in some of the rarest and most beautiful gemstones set into 18k jewellery. On the other hand, I also have time to work on new cuts alongside trying to source gemstones that you’ve never ever seen before. I’d say that we’ve all found a new normal, but I cannot tell you how incredibly excited I am to be going to the Tucson Gem Show to see all 102 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

of the people who make the gem world turn. At the time of writing this, in late January, the show is just ten days away! ABSOLUTELY, AND WE’LL HAVE A FULL REPORT ON YOUR TRIP TO TUCSON IN OUR VERY NEXT ISSUE. HAVE YOU BEEN ABLE TO DO ANY INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL FOR GEMSTONE SOURCING SINCE THE START OF THE PANDEMIC? WHERE ARE YOU MOST KEEN TO TRAVEL TO WHEN ALL RESTRICTIONS ARE A THING OF THE PAST?

I have done no international travel since the pandemic, which is a big change to the usual schedule for a guy who usually takes anywhere between 20 and 40 flights a year! However, as I mentioned, I’m soon off to Tucson to go to the world’s biggest gemstone fair. Following that, I’ll be flying directly to Moscow to speak to a few private collectors and negotiating potentially a new gemstone deal. This year I also have to get back out to Thailand to talk to some of my old colleagues and some of the guys involved with the production that’s happening right now. Otherwise, I think I’ll be out in India and potentially over in China for a short period. It’s hard to say where I’ll be going this year, but on paper at least, that’s the plan as we speak.

WHICH GEMSTONES HAVE YOU BEEN BRINGING TO GEMPORIA CUSTOMERS RECENTLY?

This is a tough question to answer, as looking back over the last year, I launched over 40 new collections. However, in recent times the

geometric collection has gone down really well! Focusing on gemstones, my personal favourite was the brand new Red Zircon that everyone went wild for. I’m sure many of you also enjoyed the brand new Moonstone, the new Congo Malachite, and that’s not to mention the many individual bespoke pieces of 18 karat gold jewellery I’ve sourced. FOR ANY CUSTOMERS NEW TO GEMPORIA, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY, HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED, AND WHAT ARE SOME OF THE STAND OUT MOMENTS IN YOUR CAREER SO FAR?

Well, I’ve been in the industry for over 16 years now. I got involved through the family, as my grandfather was a Diamond dealer for 50 years, and my mother was a jewellery designer. She has made jewellery for some very big celebrities out there, including John Travolta’s wife. I’ve personally been very lucky with the connections I’ve managed to gain, including some of the finest designers out there like Stephen Webster, Rhonda Faber Green and Christian Tse, to name just a few. I have even hand-delivered jewellery to Joan Collins’ suite in Claridge’s!

biggest lapidaries with new gem varieties to create brand new gemstone cuts with. AS

YOU’VE

YOU’RE

CURATING

CAN YOU SHARE ANY DETAILS YET?

Yes, you’ll see me selling 18 karat gold pieces on Gemporia Lifestyle on a Thursday and Friday. I’m also working on an extremely high-end unique collection that will only be 18 karat gold and platinum, at slightly higher prices, that will hopefully bedazzle and enchant our collectors even more than the beautiful pieces we already provide.

…my mother was a jewellery designer. She has made jewellery for some very big celebrities out there, including John Travolta’s wife.

Gemstones are what I love, and I moved to Southeast Asia at the age of 18 to allow me to do what I really wanted to do. That initial step has led me to work with some of the finest gemstones on the planet and work with world record gemstones, providing some of the

MENTIONED,

COLLECTION OF EXQUISITE 18 KARAT GOLD PIECES TOO.

DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER COLLECTIONS IN THE PIPELINE?

We always have many collections in the pipeline. At any one point, we can be managing ten or more collections. I have a few secrets that I don’t want to mention just yet, but customers will be really happy to be hearing that they’ll be seeing brand new geometric designs, brand new cuts, brand new gemstones and a whole array of trendsetting jewellery that should align with what we see at Tucson this year.

WILL WE BE SEEING ANOTHER EDITION OF THE CUTTING EDGE AWARDS IN 2022? HAVE YOU STARTED WORKING ON YOUR CUT YET?

Yes, and as the defending winner! As with last year, we will see a brand new selection of cutting edge gemstones coming through. These individual cuts take a vast amount of 103

time and effort to put together, and I wouldn’t be lying if I told you we’re already working on this in the background. It is so tough trying to do something unique that’s never been done before, as well as making it look good and, of course, making affordability a key part of it too. For anyone who knows me and my experience working with gemstone cutters, I’m sure you will not be disappointed in what we have got lined up. TALKING ABOUT JEWELLERY IN GENERAL, WHAT

ASPECT

YOU

FIND

MOST

FASCINATING ABOUT GEMSTONES? WHAT DRAWS YOU TO KEEP LEARNING AND HUNTING FOR INTERESTING NEW TYPES OF STONE?

WHAT DO YOU ANTICIPATE AS THE MOST SIGNIFICANT INNOVATIONS TO THE INDUSTRY IN THE COMING

In the next few years, we’re going to be seeing a lot of changes in the industry. As you might have noticed, lab-grown gemstones are now becoming a thing, which is certainly not my cup of tea.

Jewellery, in general, is a constantly moving target. In the world of jewellery, change comes almost daily or weekly, depending on which trends, which gemstones, and which styles are being focused on. As we know, everything can change in a split second depending on the environment of the gemstone world. For me, though, I love trying to provide jewellery that wows people and catches their eye. Having family members who are fascinated and still in the trade allows me to keep developing and growing. There is certainly not a dull day when designing or creating jewellery. I have to say, though, the thing that keeps me motivated the most is the amount of feedback I hear from customers thanking me and also providing me with new ideas and concepts that 104 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

they might want to see on screen. Developing these and making them real is a really fun and challenging aspect.

YEARS? WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE?

In the next few years, we’re going to be seeing a lot of changes in the industry. As you might have noticed, lab-grown gemstones are now becoming a thing, which is certainly not my cup of tea. We are also seeing big designers work with synthetic gemstones, and I feel this is only to make the jobs of the brand’s buying teams even easier. With synthetics, you don’t have to worry about the source, the quality, the individuality or the uniqueness of the gemstones, so to see prominent designers doing this is really disheartening.

Because of the way we work here at Gemporia, we already have the complete supply chain to provide customers with natural organic gemstones and still be far more affordable than some of the designers creating synthetics. So in the next few years, on the gemstone side of things, I think we’re going to be seeing origin becoming more and more important with every individual gemstone – something we’ve been so used to here for the last 18 years at Gemporia. But out in the marketplace, I think it’s really going to start

T O BY ’S T O P F I V E G E M S reacting to that specific point, and ‘country’ will undoubtedly be the fifth ‘C’. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST, RAREST OR MOST FAMOUS JEWEL YOU’VE EVER HELD?

In this department, I’ve been extremely lucky. I’ve looked after the world’s biggest faceted Tanzanite, delivered the world’s biggest Csarite® to Stephen Webster to be designed around, sold world record Sphenes and Chrome Diopsides on screen, but the rarest stone has to be a Kashmir Sapphire that was less than half a carat, valued at over £80,000. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE GEMSTONE CUT, AND WHY?

My Cutting Edge Award 2021 winner Senary, of course!

1. A L E X A N D R I T E

One of the rarest gems out there. Perhaps the biggest highlight of Alexandrite is its remarkable colourchanging capability; it looks blue-green in sunlight but turns red-purple under incandescent light. The gem’s nickname, ‘Emerald by day, Ruby by night’, came from how it shines in different light sources, which is amazing to see. 2 . R E D B E RY L

A gem crystal found in the Wah Wah Mountains of Utah, USA. Although this gem has popped up in other locations in Utah, Mexico, and New Mexico, the ones in the Wah Wah Mountains remain the most authentic. Red Beryl is so rare that the Utah Geological Survey has estimated that there’s just one gem-quality Red Beryl for every 150,000 gem-quality Diamonds. What’s more, the market price of Red Beryl stones can be as high as $10,000 per carat. 3. EMER ALD

Emeralds are some of the most popular gemstones globally, known for their exotic green tones, and are found primarily in four different countries: Brazil, Colombia, Zimbabwe, and Zambia. Most Emeralds are available on the market feature minor imperfections. Thus, in the rare opportunity that a natural Emerald without flaws goes up for sale, it can fetch mind-blowing figures. HOW CAN WE ALL STAY IN TOUCH WITH YOU ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND FIND OUT WHEN YOU’RE NEXT GOING TO BE ON-AIR?

You can all find me on Facebook under the name ‘Toby Cavill Gemstone Broadcaster’ and also by following the Gemporia social media pages where you will be constantly updated when I’m on the air. Feel free to get in touch with me any time. I have many customers messaging me, but I’ll always do my best to try and get back to everyone. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE UPDATES AND THE FASCINATING INSIGHTS, TOBY. WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING ALL ABOUT YOUR TUCSON SHOW EXPERIENCE WHEN YOU RETURN, BOTH ON-AIR AND IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF GEMOLOGY.

4. BLUE DIAMOND

One of the most legendary gemstones in the world, the Blue Diamond. Given its rarity, anytime a Blue Diamond is set to appear at an auction, the world’s top collectors line up for a chance to own one. They are more than willing to spend millions of dollars to make it happen. Due to this, it has to be on the list for me. 5 . S P E S S A R T I T E GA R N E T

Spessartite Garnet is a bright orange Garnet coloured by manganese. The finest examples, often referred to as Mandarin Garnet in the trade, are a pure orange hue that is one of the most vivid colours in the gemstone world. The pure orange specimens are very rare and come mainly from Africa, particularly Nigeria and Namibia. Large clean stones are quite valuable and display remarkable brilliance. 105

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT ROSE DANBURITE & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING IZOS35, CONGO PINK TOURMALINE & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING HZAJ02, TANZANITE & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING NSTQ48, MOROCCAN AMETHYST & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING LWVJ67, CSARITE® & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING CNVJ46, CONGO CHROME TOURMALINE & DIAMOND 18K GOLD RING RBTQ26 106

107

TOBY’S BESPOKE COLLECTION

Reader"’’s Choice Every three months, we love to ask our Facebook followers which piece of jewellery from Gemporia.com is their favourite and what makes it stand out. Here are just a few of your fantastic responses, showing your excellent knowledge of gemstones and the variety of unique jewellery styles suited to you. As always, we’ve randomly chosen one lucky winner, so congratulations to Ana Majcen, who has won these gorgeous Aquaprase™ & Pearl earrings in gold plated sterling silver. Well done, Ana! Keep an eye out for your next chance to win at Facebook.com/Gemporia.

WINNER ANA MAJCEN

AQUAPRASE™ & KAORI CULTURED PEARL MIDAS EARRINGS VCWM28

These earrings would be a dream to own! Aquaprase™ is my favourite gemstone and it would go so nicely with my eye colour.

108 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

ALISON WOOD

KATHRYN CALVERT

SEAN MCCARTNEY

PANJSHIR EMERALD & DIAMOND 18K GOLD LORIQUE RING – VLOS18

BURMESE RUBY & WHITE ZIRCON STERLING SILVER RING – CNVJ29

LEHRER COSMIC OBELISK OPTIC QUARTZ, TURQUOISE & WHITE ZIRCON 9K GOLD PENDANT – FATQ67

“The depth of colour and vibrancy in these Panjshir Emeralds is outstanding, and what better cut than the one named after the gemstone itself? I am a band type of girl, so this would be more than perfect for me in this style.”

“Not one, not two, but three gorgeous rows of Burmese Rubies to be mesmerised by. Saying no to this beauty is not an option, so I will say, Yes, please!”

CHERYL FAULDER

JULIE BEE

JOSEPHINE JONES

PADPARADSCHA SAPPHIRE & WHITE ZIRCON 9K GOLD RING – IKTQ84

LEUCO SAPPHIRE & WHITE ZIRCON 9K GOLD EARRINGS – LSAJ03

BURMESE BLUE SAPPHIRE AND WHITE ZIRCON 9K GOLD EARRINGS – KBTQ28

“I’m really drawn to stones that can give Diamonds a real run for their money, and White Sapphires are incredible. I love the rope-style bezel encasing all these stones so beautifully, making this item very wearable while bringing just a touch of designer-inspired style.”

“These Sapphire earrings are beautiful. I lost my favourite pair of Sapphire earrings, which really upset me, and have been looking for a new pair to replace them, and these are very similar.”

“The colour match and clarity of the bezel set Padparadscha Sapphires in this piece is stunning. The intricate and unusual goldwork and accenting White Zircon frames the stones beautifully. I would be very proud to own such a stunning piece.”

“This captivating piece of jewellery plays an amazing optical illusion that intrigues anyone who admires it - a must-have piece of jewellery for anyone’s collection.”

109

#GemologyMag @GEMPORIA | @JEWELLERYMAKERUK

We love sharing our genuine gemstone and lifestyle imagery with our Instagram followers and we’d love to see your pictures too. If you want to be in with a chance to appear in the next issue of Gemology or on our Instagram page, tag us in your photos, follow us and use the #GemologyMag hashtag.

66 #TopGems

79 @NotPerfect.AlwaysMe

87 #Molte

23 #WhamStorage

41 #Buddha

39 #CreateWearShare

74 #OnlyOneLeft

60 #Aquamarine

70 #CyberMonday

110 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

Next Issue in Gemolog y

Just think; when the next issue of Gemology arrives, we’ll be right in the heart of spring, looking forward to what will hopefully be a long, warm and delightful summer. In that spirit, we’re packing our next edition full of summer inspiration, colour and jewellery.

BEHIND THE SCENES AT GEMPORIA

We promised this feature last time, but we had to push it back due to safety restrictions around our building. But, fingers crossed, we’ll be able to take you behind the scenes of our flagship Gemporia TV channel in the very next edition of Gemology.

SCINTILLATING SUMMER STYLE

Across our jewellery, homewares, fashion, beauty and crafting collections, we’ll be bringing you the hottest picks for the season ahead, as we anticipate a summer of celebration and socialising on an unprecedented scale.

LOOKING AFTER YOUR JEWELLERY It’s been a little while since we explained how to

keep your jewellery looking as good as new, so in our next issue, we’re taking a fresh look at the best ways to keep your jewellery and gemstones in tiptop condition.

ALSO... A full Tucson show report with Toby Cavill, there will be plenty more from our crafting channels, we’ll be introducing our latest jewellery and homewares collections, plus more news, competitions and another of our handy discount codes too. Look out for the summer Gemology from early May. 111

The Gemporia Partnership

Where to Find Us & Our Apps

Thank you for shopping with the Gemporia Partnership. Launched in 2004 as Gems TV, Gemporia has now grown to encompass a wide range of collections. Everything we do focuses on making life more colourful, stylish, and affordable, from jewellery and homewares to fashion and beauty. We also love mindfulness and have launched dedicated specialist channels and websites for sewing, knitting and jewellery making. Since 2017, we’ve been an employee-owned partnership that allows every team member to focus on the most important aspect of our company: you.

OUR CHANNELS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM Gemporia: Our flagship channel, serving the very best jewellery deals alongside our fashion, beauty and homewares collections, 24 hours a day. WATCH ONLINE CHANNEL 45

CHANNEL 665

CHANNEL 755

CHANNEL 805

gemporia.com/auction/gemporia

Gemporia Lifestyle: The best homeware shows, plus fashion and beauty, health and wellbeing and, of course, beautiful jewellery too. From 5pm to 2am. WATCH ONLINE CHANNEL 73

CHANNEL 674

CHANNEL 807

gemporia.com/auction/gemporialifestyle

Gem Collector: One of the most extensive collections of loose gemstones, available at incredibly affordable prices and hosted by gem collecting experts. From 5pm to 11pm. WATCH ONLINE

gemcollector.com/auction/live CHANNEL 670

JewelleryMaker: Learn how to create your own jewellery with experts in a range of different crafting disciplines, and follow along with detailed demonstrations. From 8am to 5pm. WATCH ONLINE CHANNEL 72 (8AM TO 1PM) CHANNEL 73 (1PM TO 5PM)

CHANNEL 674

CHANNEL 807

jewellerymaker.com/watch

Sewing Street: All things stitching and sewing, fronted by our team of knowledgeable presenters and guests, with demos and deals. From 8am to 1pm. WATCH ONLINE CHANNEL 73

CHANNEL 670

sewingstreet.com/watch

Yarn Lane: Our newest channel is for knitting enthusiasts, new and experienced alike. Join the team for everything you could ever know about the craft. Various times. WATCH ONLINE CHANNEL 73

CHANNEL 670

112 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

yarnlane.com/watch

Explore Our Apps Download our free apps for smartphones and tablets to enhance and augment your shopping experience with us here at the Gemporia Partnership.

GEMPORIA JEWELLERY AUCTIONS Purchase beautiful jewellery, homewares, fashion and beauty items at exclusive, affordable prices by using the Gemporia Jewellery Auctions app to view and participate in our TV auctions. The app covers Gemporia, Gemporia Lifestyle and Gem Collector all in one handy app. You can view full item details, bid instantly and interact with the host in the studio. The app also allows you to view recently shown pieces and grab a last-minute deal, pre-order on popular TV auctions to avoid missing out and find similar designs to help you build your collection. Everyone pays the same lowest price for our limited run auction pieces, and the app makes buying even simpler. You can also use the app to keep track of your collection. You’ll find authenticity certificates and full details of your pieces, all in one place. The app can even help you find your ring size. gemporia.com/app

JEWELLERYMAKER With the JewelleryMaker app, it’s easy to watch all your favourite shows, whether you’re at home or on the move. You can choose whether to watch the live video, or if you’re already watching on TV, you can use the app as a companion to get quick access to full product details, images and reviews. Turning your phone to the side will let you watch the show full screen, or on your tablet, you can switch between watching in full screen or with product details and a smaller video by pressing the resize icon at the top of the app. You can browse other items that have been shown earlier in the day, and if you’ve missed the demo or wanted a little more time to think, you can view full details about any item that is still available. You can even send a message to the studio. jewellerymaker.com/mobile-apps

SEWING STREET Watch all your favourite Sewing Street presenters and guests with our latest app, available now on iPhone and Android. Whether you’re new to sewing or very experienced, our shows are packed with innovative techniques and demonstrations and all the latest tools and fabrics to make your hobby as easy and enjoyable as possible. The app allows you to watch live and purchase items straight from your phone, and you can also see our Deal of the Day, our Best Sellers list, and browse items that have been shown earlier or are scheduled for later in the day. Plus, of course, you can send messages directly to the studio right from the app, so if you have a question about an item or demonstration, contacting the team couldn’t be simpler. It is the easiest way to buy from Sewing Street, even when watching on television. sewingstreet.com/ways-to-watch

113

RANDOM QUESTION WHAT THREE LUXURIES WOULD YOU TAKE TO A DESERT ISLAND?

Meet The Team ALEX ROBERTS | WRITER ( JM) I think a BBQ has multiple uses, so I’d take one to keep me warm at night and cook tasty desert island meals! I would also take a huge blowup bed to float around the sea and bask in the sun, along with a never-ending supply of crisps.

It would have to be piña coladas (lets’ treat it like a holiday), a bottomless bag of crisps and my Harry Potter books to keep me busy!

ROZ CROMBIE | ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR SAM GERMAINE-SCRIVENS | PHOTOGRAPHER ( JM) SHANNON LOCKETT | PHOTOGRAPHER STEVE BENNETT | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

VANESSA GORMAN | ART DIRECTOR & FASHION EDITOR

114

GEMOLOGY — SPRING 2022

A coffee machine so I could still have lovely lattes when it gets cold at night, a digital music player with a vast library of music to enjoy, and, if we are going really luxurious here, I’d love a hot tub! I’d miss my warm baths, and that’s kind of the same, right? Not really one for survival, but at least I’d be relaxed!

OFF Voucher Code We hope you’ve enjoyed this colourful spring edition of Gemology magazine and that it has filled you with ideas and inspiration for the coming season. We have so many gorgeous gemstones in all the hues of the spectrum, and if any jewels are missing from your collection or you fancy a springtime treat, we’ve got an excellent offer for you. NEXT TIME YOU USE OUR WEBSITE GEMPORIA.COM OR OUR APP GEMPORIA JEWELLERY AUCTIONS, ENTER THE CODE SPRINGSAVER AT THE CHECKOUT STAGE TO RECEIVE A 35% DISCOUNT ON YOUR ENTIRE ORDER, SO IF YOU HAVE YOUR EYE ON A FEW DESIGNS, THIS CODE WILL LOWER THE TOTAL OF YOUR ENTIRE BASKET. IT’S OUR WAY OF SAYING THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT OF OUR EMPLOYEE-OWNED COMPANY.

SINGLE-USE CODE. EXCLUDES AUCTION, CLEARANCE, SALE, WEB EXCLUSIVE AND LIFESTYLE ITEMS. CANNOT BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY OTHER PROMOTIONAL OFFER. NO MINIMUM SPEND REQUIRED. OFFER EXPIRES ON 30TH APRIL 2022.

115

116 G E M O L O G Y — S P R I N G 2 0 2 2

Gemology Magazine — Spring 2022

Articles inside

All About Hallmarking

Cheralene’s Style Edit

Perla Collection