DESIGN RESEARCH process book
~Nirvana Barkakoty UGADFD Level 2
~ Research components from concept to prototype
calculating, organizing and evaluating data
critical enquiry rigorous investigation problem solving
complete meaning of the chosen topic
RESEARCH
understanding, summarizing and exploring wider aspects
in-depth study transparent application of different sources
results in a valid conclusion improve existing solutions
PRIMARY RESEARCH
raw data original source of information first-hand observations
photographs
interviews
surveys live documentation experential
sensorial
SECONDARY RESEARCH
TERTIARY RESEARCH
interpretations, evaluations of primary resources.
collection of both primary and secondary sources
books
encyclopedias
magazines
literature reviews
journals
library catalogs
review articles
abstracts
commentaries
indexes
CONCEPT ~could be a conclusion from the research ~general notions ~looks at two things tangible intangible ~if something is tangible, it is clear enough or definite enough to be easily seen, felt, or noticed. An intangible concept is something that we understand conceptually (with our brains) but can't physically grasp it.
everything contains the seed of the opposite harmony
yin & yang
unified
balance
everything becomes and transforms
concept of duality forming a whole
dynamic balance
complementary
each aspect contains the beginning point for the other aspect.
neither of the two are absolutes
yin & yang
the nature of yin & yang flows and changes are dependent to be complete
shady side-sunny side
wholeness moon-sun rest-active male-female night-day
In Traditional Chinese medicine, each of the five elements has a pair of yin and yang organs. The yin organs meridian has a downward flow of energy and the yang upward. Every individual needs to find the balance of yin and yang depending on their own constitution, climate, season, occupation and even emotional environment. An imbalance in the yin-yang ratio can cause illness. If in perfect health, the individual should be able to adapt to any of the inevitable changes of life. The following are six principles of yin and yang:
1. Yin and Yang are opposites Everything has an opposite—although never absolute, only comparative. No one thing is completely yin or completely yang. Each contains the seed of its opposite. For example, cold can turn into hot; or season changes of the year.
2. Yin and Yang are interdependent Neither is one nor the other. Everything is part Yin, part Yang, whether or not one is more dominant. One cannot exist without the other. For example, day cannot exist without night.
3. Yin and Yang can be further subdivided into Yin and Yang Any Yin or Yang aspect can be further subdivided into Yin and Yang. For example, temperature can be seen as either hot or cold. Therefore, everything has the ability of being more Yin or more Yang.
5. Yin and Yang can transform into one another Yin can transform into yang and vice versa. For example, life changes to death. One can change into the other, but it is not a random event, happening only when the time is right. For example: Spring only comes when winter is finished
4. Yin and Yang consume and support each other The levels of Yin and Yang are continuously changing. Normally this is a harmonious change, but when Yin or Yang are out of balance they affect each other, and too much of one can eventually weaken (consume) the other. There are four possible imbalances: Excess yin, excess yang, yin deficiency, yang deficiency.
6. Part of Yin is in Yang and part of Yang is in Yin There are always traces of one in the other. For example, there is always light within the dark (e.g., the stars at night), these qualities are never completely one or the other.
open-ended questions are asked to gather more information
non-statistical method
It generates non-numerical data.
can be used to understand how an individual subjectively perceives and gives meaning
QUALITATIVE RESEARCH process of collecting, analyzing, and interpreting non-numerical data
it's a humanistic or idealistic approach
dependent on the experience of the researchers
methods used: ~ one to one interview ~ focus groups ~ ethnographic research ~ content/text analysis ~ case study research
It generates numerical data.
uses close-ended questions to gather statistical data
involves a larger populationfor more accurate data
QUANTITATIVE RESEARCH structured way of collecting data & analyzing it to draw conclusion.
presents data in tables, graphs, or figures
uses a computational & statistical process
tools used: ~ online surveys ~ questionnaires ~ polls
QUALITATIVE RESEARCH The aim of qualitative research is to understand the social reality of individuals, groups and cultures as nearly as possible as its participants feel it or live it. Thus, people and groups, are studied in their natural setting. There are different types of qualitative research methods including diary accounts, in-depth interviews, documents, focus groups, case study research, and ethnography
QUANTITATIVE RESEARCH Quantitative research involves the process of objectively collecting and analyzing numerical data to describe, predict, or control variables of interest. The goals of quantitative research are to test causal relationships between variables, make predictions, and generalize results to wider populations. structured data
unstructured data
statistical analysis
summary
objective conclusions
subjective conclusions
surveys, experminets
interviews, focus groups, observations
QUESTIONNAIRE
RESPONSES
MARKET SEGMENTS The approach of dividing a holistic market into specific segments according to determined criteria. Diverse forms of market segmentation are distinguished, either segmenting according to customers (e.g., geographic location or demographic characteristics), to companies or to industries.
Designers
Retail
The Butterfly's Whispers (2019)
Export
Craft
DESIGNERS ~only a select elite can aspire to attain. ~exclusive and prestigious ~innovation ~creative brains behind the product ~luxury segment ~collaborations ~personalization/ bespoke ~trend-setters
RETAIL ~mass market ~consumerism ~ready to wear ~sale/discounts ~customer service ~sizes S M L XL ~competition ~trend-setters ~majority
EXPORT HOUSE ~manufacturing units to export ~not a direct source for buying ~works for a no. of brands at the same time ~industrial/ mass production ~cost effective ~follows strict guidelines ~quality moderation ~design detail moderation ~pricing based competition
CRAFT ~smallest garment segment ~skill based segment ~family/community based ~resources required ~high pricing ~unique pricing ~skills are passed on form generation to generation ~designer is the manufacturer ~ethical/ ecological ~generally free sizes
BRAND- DOODLAGE MARKET SEGMENT- RETAIL "Doodlage, is a word commonly associated with the art of doodling. It is something any and every individual can indulge in and no one judges or replicates them. Doodlage as a label is a amalgamation of sustainable and innovative designs. They aim to create seasonless merchandise. Keeping comfort and versatility at the centre of their designs. Most of their pieces are excellent travel companions or a great product for an all day wear. They re-design, deconstruct and develop chic garments using industrial waste, discarded clothes ,dead stocks and sustainable materials. No two garments are the same and every product has its own story and . Being one of the bigger production based countries, they have an abundance of garment, fabric and print manufacturers. Over time doodlage has fixed sourcing centres for fabric scraps. They also get a few requests for fabric pick ups from smaller brands every once in a while. They do try and incorporate these fabrics in ongoing collections. Doodlage as a brand is made for anyone who is looking for a brand that gives more than it takes.
India is a land of recycling, be it making a trendy dress out of our mom’s old sarees, or patching up several old clothes to create a Kantha quilt. This is how “Doodlage” was born- the simple idea to create a unique, environment-friendly products, which is also high on style. A creative label that seamlessly blends sustainability and high street fashion, they majorly use waste cloth materials to create voguish designs. Realizing that garment industries were a major contributor to the fabric waste that chokes landfills, Kriti decided to upcycle this waste. Despite their good intentions, doodlage also ends up generating waste but unlike other brands, this waste doesn’t go to the dump yard. The waste they create is shredded to create new fabric that goes into home furnishings, accessories, soft furnishing products and paper to make their packaging or stationery products..'
Kriti Tula, Creative Director & co-owner at Doodlage "Kriti graduated in fashion design from Pearl Academy in New Delhi. She started doing internships with various export houses from her second year onwards, which gave her a window into how the fashion industry works. “They work under immense pressure to meet the demand for products and there is very little understanding of waste or what to do with it. As a result, a lot of good fabric goes into landfills. She then went on to study design management at London School of Fashion with a scholarship. The idea of conscious fashion was sparked there. Her brand received a very warm welcome in the market. The label earned acceptance in no time and the market has been more than encouraging. When in 2014 Kriti set up her sustainable fashion label Doodlage she never anticipated the success that lay ahead. While studying full time at the London College of Fashion she spent every spare minute on building her label and in 2015 her hard work paid off. She was recognised by the Lakme Fashion Week Gen Next Platform and soon after won the award for ‘Green Wardrobe Initiative’ by HUL and Grazia Young Fashion Award. Step by step, through multiple up-cycling based projects, and industry experience, both in India and abroad, and a talented working tirelessly with her, she has turned up-cycling into a bold new statement."
PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATION WOMENS WEAR Dresses Tops Bottoms Tunics Outerwear Jumpsuits MENSWEAR Shirts Jackets Bottom
ACCESSORIES Travel essentials Clutches and wallets Bags Stationery Home
COLLABORATIONS Monsoon Ogaan Avoire Future label Sobo Amethyst The project Evoluzione Creo Bliss Arvind Aavaran Anonym Maalgaadi Studio rudraksh Style tag Nete.in Jaypore
CLIENT STUDY The profile of sustainable fashion fits both men and women of all ages. These are individuals who are dedicated to sustainable and eco-friendly living, with fresh ideas and aesthetics. The youngest of the audiences are Gen Z and Millennials who come from urban and higher-education backgrounds. They are ethically minded customers and conscious slow fashion shoppers. On top of that, they’re the audience that tends to be the most proactive in seeking out sustainable brands and are willing to boycott brands that don’t fit this model. They are somewhat vocal and knowledgeable about sustainability. They priorities raw aesthetics and uniqueness. Also, this group emphasises on innovation and forward-thinking. While benefiting the environment, choosing to buy ‘conscious’ collections, it also means that it comes at a financial cost.The consumers are willing to pay for— fair labor, safe workplaces, artisan craft, organic and regenerative materials, local and small-batch production — because they understand that the brand prioritises the dignity and safety of garment workers and their communities, and the long-term sustainability of the planet, above the ability of consumers to wear something new and hyper-trendy every time they post on Instagram or go out to a party.
SEGMENTING
S T P
TARGETING POSITIONING
Research on clientele using STP & VALS data collection, Identification and selection of relevant information
s - market segmentation market segmentation involves grouping various customers into segments that have common needs or will respond similarly to a marketing action. Each segment will respond to a different marketing mix strategy, with each offering alternate growth and profit opportunities. different ways to segment your market : ~demographies- age, gender, income, education, job and cultural background ~psychographics- group's lfestyle for example- social class, lifestyle, personality, opinionns & attitudes ~behavior- eg: online shoppers, shopping centre customers, brand preference, prior purchase ~geographical locations- continent, country, state, provice, city or rural that the group resides.
t- targeting After segmenting , you will need to choose your targets. No one strategy will suit all consumer groups. Three general strategies for selecting your target markets: ~Undifferentiated Targeting: views market as one group with no individual segments, therefore using a single marketing strategy. May be useful for a business or product or product with little competition. ~Concentrated Targeting: focuses on selecting a particular market niche on which marketing efforts are targeted. So you can concentrate on understanding the needs and wants of that particular market intimately. Small firms often benefit from this and enables them to compete effectively against larger firms. ~Multi-Segment-Targeting : used if you need to focus on two or more well defined market segments and want to develop different strategies for them. It offers benefits but can be costly because it involves greater input from management, increased market research and increased promotional strategies. Prior to selecting a particular targeting strategy, you should perform a cost benefit analysis between all available strategies and determine which will suit your situation best
p- positioning Positioning is developing a product and brand image in the minds of consumers. Can also include improving a customer's perception about the experience they will have if they choose their product/ service. The business can positively influence the perceptions of its chose customer base through strategic promotional activities and by carefully defining your business marketing mix. Effective positioning involves a good understanding of competing products and the benefits that are sought by your target market. Business should aim to define themselves in the eyes of their customers in regards to their competition.
V.A.L.S. MODEL
VALUES LIFESTYLES
The most intelligent tool for understanding of customers Values and Lifestyles.
VALS is a system for grouping consumers according to psychological and sociological theories in order to predict their behavior in the purchase decision process. three main categories: ~Need-Directed-Consumers : who make purchases based solely on need ~Outer-Directed-Consumers : who make purchases based on their perceptions of the way others view them. ~Inner-Directed-Consumers : who make purchases out of some inner need. VALS can aid in defining targets for products and are also helpful in the development of advertising copy and media strategies. Concept was introduced in 1978 by the California consulting firm of SRI International (Mitchell)
Consumers-Motivations ~driven by knowledge and principles are motivated primary by ideals. Groups are called Thinkers and Believers. ~driven by demonstrating success to their peers are motivated primarily by achievement. Groups are referred as Achievers & Strivers. ~driven by a desire for social or physical activity, variety, and risk taking are motivated primarily by self-expression. Groups are known as Experiencers & Makers.
~At the top of the rectangle are the innovators - have higher resources- could have any of the above mentioned primary motivations. ~At the bottom are the survivors- live complacently- without a strong primary motivation. The VALS framework gives more details about each of the eight groups.
used for collecting data from a predefined group of respondents a research method
Less expensive or time consuming
SURVEY
used to gain information and insights into various topics of interest.
Allows clarification
why do a survey? ~ uniqueness : primary research ~ probability sampling : unbiased representation of population of interest ~ standardization of measurement : same information from every respondent ~ analysis needs : use survey data to compliment existing data from secondary sources
TRENDS signifies a specific look or expression that is spread across a population at a specific time and place. preference of the time in context to products, events, lifestyle etc.
Trickle-up : trends that are established on the streets and move up. eg: jeans Trickle-down : trends coined by the Design Houses which are eventually captured by the lower market segments like RTW etc.
MICRO TRENDS
MACRO TRENDS
Trends that disappear in shorter period of time and attracts lesser number of people
Trends that capture a larger mass of people and is there for a long time.
At the low end of the scale are fads: widespread but briefly prevalent phenomena, typically lasting a few years or less
A macro trend, like social media has become lasts longer more in the 5 to 10 year range eg- little black dress
lasts 3-5 years eg- choker
TREND SPOTTING & TREND FORECASTING ~Forecast future trends and predict consumer behaviour to keep retailers and brands build commercially successful and inspiring product ranges across Home & Interiors and Kids Lifestyle. ~Isn't unpredictable & is measurable. ~Is based on solid research and precise methodologies combined with years of experience. ~Trend Spotting is understanding the now- forecasting is predicting what comes next to help your business achieve commercial success. ~For designer, buyers & marketers alike, trend forecasting should be an essential part of your job.
~trend spotting allows brands to copy what's happening now but forecasting considers the broader cultural shift driving change. ~trend spotting requires an immediate response and the latter looks ahead so brands can be well prepared. ~investing in trend forecasting, while monitoring the current marketplace will help you discover 'fads' from longer lasting trends. ~forecasting can have influence across the entire business, from strategic brand decisionsto product design and marketing. ~Fashion Trend Forecasting Agencies: *Medium that forecasts colors and trends, in advance of the current season. *Via consumers trend research & trend-spotting they predict fabrics, colorways & fashion trends. Eg - WGSN *Architecture , movies etc could be the inspiration behind too.
TREND BOARD : CORSET
GET WAISTED
TREND BOARD- CORSETS ARE BACK The corset dates back to the 1500s. Corsets were a common woman’s garment from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th and early 19th centuries. They were commonly worn under a dress to support and shape a woman’s figure. They could also be worn like a bodice or as an outer clothing over a blouse and skirt.With the shift towards sport and healthy lifestyles in the 1960s and 1970s, the corset as an undergarment was abandoned, but its focus was already internalised. Today, more severe corsets are still worn by enthusiasts and as part of fetishistic, cross-dressing and burlesque practices; and while they may no longer be part of the average woman’s everyday routine, they have never truly disappeared from fashion. In the 1970s, Vivienne Westwood began using corsets as part of her historicist punk aesthetic; imagining her corsets to empower women rather than bind them. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler incorporated corsets into their designs in the 1980s. Madonna made Gaultier’s pink satin corset famous during her 1990 Blond Ambition tour. Since then, every few years the fashion press reports on the reappearance of corsets by couturiers such as Christian Lacroix, Alexander McQueen, and Donatella Versace. Although some of these corsets incorporate lacing and (plastic or metal) boning, most are really more like zip-up bustiers than historic corsets. Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, and Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga have all experimented with corsets or corset-like tailoring in their designs, sometimes layering corsetry over garments rather than under them, subverting the piece from underwear to outerwear. High fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander and more recently Jacquemus and Isabel Marant include classic corsets but also tops and knitwear with corset shapes built in. Today we see them as designer wear on the red carpet or with a jacket and jeans on the street. Corsets have evolved from patriarchal into a symbol of free female sexuality, arguably coming full circle by being depicted in modern period dramas that center the characters of women, such as Bridgerton and The Great.
can be representing one aspect or many at the same time. eg- aesthetic, story boarding
communicating the feel and representing one's idea
vibe of the project projects the elements of the project
theme
aesthetic representation
MOOD BOARD is a visual representation types: ~diffused, silhouette, grid, composition
aesthetic ~artistic impression for the design process visuals, color story, balance, flow, SSS
can include magazine clippings, photographs, color swatches, fabric swatches, texture samples, and more
mood boards:
shouldn't be left open-ended relates to the concept or the inspiration behind the project
theme
aesthetic representation
VISUAL BOARD is a visual representation
projecting the feel and representing one's idea
shouldn't have many directions
should directly fall into the inspiration/ concept category
COLOUR BOARD a tool used to create a color palette experiments with color schemes color artwork picks colours from the mood board
MATERIAL COLLECTION/SELECTION season silhouette/ forms- flowy/structured etc pricing category- men's, women's, kid's etc style category- streetwear, formals etc market segment new developments