2013 Fall
Semester Trend Report Project Style INC
Leonis M. Arias & Parrish Rhames
Introduction to Fashion Industry
Table of Contents
Our personal style must have’s, trends………………
Our fashion designer: Michael Kors. Studying brilliance…………..
Origin and evolution of the T-shirt………..
Rock Uniformity (Rock music bands) evolution…………
Funny Face (movie) key characters look……….
Accessory and T-shirt Collection…………
My style can be mainly defined as classic, but with a touch of bohemian and street styles.
Leonis’ Style
It also can be very chameleonic, mixing different styles such as romantic and some items from punk rock; making contrasts in color and patterns.
Must have’s
Trends
Parrish’ s Style
As of today, there are several trends that are being followed. For one, males are wearing skinny jeans or more snug fitted. Baggy jeans are no longer in style. I also like to keep up with the trend of animal print designs as you can see the custom designs on the anime check of my sneakers and the animal print on the inside line of my hoodie and pockets.
DATE
EVENT
IMPORTANT BECAUSE‌
1. 1981
Launched the Michael Kors womenswear line.
The Michael Kors label was born.
2. 1983
DuPont’s Award
Michael Kors is awarded the First American Original Award from DuPont.
3. 1995 4. 1996
Michael Kors received the fashion reward of excellence. Elles/Cadillac Award Vogue Magazine
Michael Kos was called the creative designer & most influential designer of the decade. The designer reintroduces his bridge line, Kors Michael Kors, with Onward Kashiyama.
5. 1997
Releases a capsule menswear line.
It added a new triumph to the label.
6. 1999
CFDA
7. 2002
Men’s wear
8. 2003
CFDA
Kors received the Womenswear Designer of the year award. LVMH takes a 33 percent stake in Michael Kors’s business and promotes him from designer to creative director at Céline. Kos established a full blown menswear collection. Kors partners with Onward Kashiyama to enter the Japanese marke Received a CFDA award for his menswear collection. Announces plans to launch a lower-priced womenswear line, Michael.
9. 2010
CFDA Geoffrey Beene
An expansion into Japan began with the launch of Michael Kors label and also was recognized this year with the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame Award for Lifetime Achievement.
10. 2010
Olive R. Grace Award
Was honored for his commitment to promoting awareness and raising funds for Breast Cancer.
MY DESIGNER WAS KNOWN FOR (THESE STYLES/PERSONALITIES):
He is known for his supreme gift for wit and graciousness and for his modern take on American fashion. Although he is occasionally described as a minimalist, he himself has rejected the term as being “a bit pretentious, like you’re talking about religion.” What his brand is really founded on are simply classic clothes cut from fabulous fabrics. “Ultimately,” Kors told Women’s Wear Daily in 1996, “clean lines have greater longevity, which women appreciate, and to which they can add their own personality”.
“I truly believe that my legacy will be that you can have it all. You can be glamorous and sexy and feel comfortable in your own skin.”
Happy Anniversary Michael Kors ~ 2011 marks the 30th year in the fashion business for this famous designer who has re-defined American Sportswear. His designs are timeless, classic and chic! He sold his first collection to Bergdorf Goodman at the age of 19 and has never looked back. He designed for the French house Celine from 1997-2004 as well as continuing to design for his own label. He was the first ever women's ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Celine. I sincerely respect designers who can design under more than one 'umbrella' bringing their own design aesthetic but staying true to the labels history and catering to their customer. This creative multi-tasking is a very rare quality few designers can pull off well.
Michael Kors Influences and Early life Description
Years
(Michael Kors) Karl Anderson, Jr., born in Merrick, Long Island, New York, to Joan Krystos one time Revlon model, and Karl Anderson, a college student. His parents will divorce when is two.
Steeped in pop culture, Kors finds time after school to make “whipstitched leather vests, bat shirts, and copper bracelets” and sell them in the Iron Butterfly (aka, his parents’ basement Drops acting.
His jeans and tees are picked up by a manufacturing company.
Becomes a student at F.I.T., where he is “a slave to trendiness,” as Vogue writer Dodie Kaza will later report. “I wore tight white silk shirts that laced up the front,” he says in the June 1 story, “and platform shoes. And I actually lay down on the floor to get into a pair of French j Works part-time at Lothar’s, a chic boutique across from Bergdorf Goodman.
Leaves school after nine months when the owner of Lothar’s offers him workspace and carte blanche to design what he likes.
June: He earns his first Vogue credit with a red Lothar’s sundress, which the magazine lau its “bareness, wrap-on ease, and vibrant color.” October: His parkas for the store, one in m silver leather, are featured in Vogue. With business partner John Orchulli, immediately establishes his own line He stages his first runway show.
Michael Kors/Lyle & Scott, a line of cashmere separates created in collaboration with a venerable Scottish firm, launches. May: Four years after starting his label, Kors tells The N York Times, “The basic concept has remained the same. It’s based on simple shapes, all of w can go together. There is no detail, including a button, that doesn’t have a reason for being t Michael Kors/Lyle & Scott, a line of cashmere separates created in collaboration with a vene Scottish firm, launches. May:Four years after starting his label, Kors tells The New York Times, “The basic concept has remained the same. It’s based on simple shapes, all of which
together. There is no detail, including a button, that doesn’t have a reason for being there Kors’s “neoclassic style” is featured in Vogue's September issue.
Kors hires designer Derek Lam fresh out of Parsons. December: A lower-priced line, whic sometimes jokingly referred to as “Kors Light”, is launched with Compagnia Internazionale Abbigliamento. With the entire industry weathering a recession—and after a manufacturing deal for his brid line falls apart—Kors files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. Richard Sinnott joins the Kors company as creative director of accessories.
MICHAEL Michael Kors label launched. Lance LePere, Kors’s life partner, who joined the company as an intern in 1990, becomes executive vice president and creative director of wo design. Kors becomes a judge on Project Runway. The company launches a full swimwear line. Fashion Footwear Association of New York n Kors its best designer of the year. He introduces Kors Michael Kors childrenswear for sp 2006. “Palm Beach, when it comes right down to it, the most glamorous places are the extravagan sporty,” he tells Vogue. Wins a FiFi Award from the Fragrance Foundation for Bath & Body Line of the Year. He launches a home furnishings line. October:Wins Accessories Council Excellence award for Designer of the A Michael Kors lifestyle boutique, mixing merchandise from all his lines, opens in SoHo, Ne York. He opens his first European store, in Milan.
Opens his first Paris flagship. Appoints a chairman and CEO of Michael Kors China, capitali on the nation’s increasing appetite for luxury. The company plans to open boutiques in Hon Kong, Japan, Korea, Singapore, Macau, Malaysia, and the Philippines before year’s end.
MICHAEL KORS Kors Now Michael THEN Fall 2012
Fall 2013 Ready-to-wear NY
Fall 2011
Campaign
Any Update on designer news within last 6 months: (example ownership, new collections etc)
2013 January: For her husband’s second inaugural reception, Michelle Obama chooses a glittering black Kors shift. Songstress Alicia Keys performs at the inaugural ball in the designer’s floor-length crystal-flecked red gown. He announces a long-term partnership with the U.N. World Food Programme to help combat hunger globally. Designer Zac Posen replaces him as a judge on Project Runway. February: The Wall Street Journal’s NYIndex rates Kors number one on its list of Top Ten most powerful and prominent New Yorkers. Model Karlie Kloss sports a bright-blue skin-baring cutout dress of his design to the Grammys. April: Actress Halle Berry signs on with Kors to raise awareness and funds for the World Food Programme.
Fall 2005
Spring 2013
MY DESIGNER’S BRAND WAS PART OF THE CREATION OF WHICH PEOPLE AND COMPANIES who and why? -Bloomingdales: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Bergdorf Goodman: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Lord & Taylor: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Neiman Marcus: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Saks Fifth Avenue: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Celine: he launched the Michael Kors womenswear line. -Michael line: He concentrated on his own brand, includes women’s handbags, shoes and ready-to-wear apparel. -Kors line: He concentrates on his own brand, includes footwear and jeans.
IV) Corporate Profile Michael Kors is a rapidly growing global luxury lifestyle brand led by a worldclass management team and a renowned, award-winning designer. Since launching his namesake brand 30 years ago, Michael Kors has featured distinctive designs, materials and craftsmanship with a jet-set aesthetic that combines stylish elegance and a sporty attitude. Mr. Kors’ vision has taken a Company from its beginnings as an American luxury sportswear house to global
accessories, footwear and apparel company with a presence in 74 countries. As a highly recognized luxury lifestyle brand in North America with accelerating awareness in targeted international markets, we have experienced exceptional sales momentum and have a clear trajectory for significant future growth. Over the years, we have successfully expanded beyond apparel into accessories (including handbags, small leather goods, eyewear, jewelry and watches) and footwear. PART #2 BEHIND THE MAGIC/DESIGNER' TEAM What are the
top 10 design principles that make this designer fashion brand? Fabulous?
Sportive Glamorous Sexy Confortable
Different?
Luxurious Adaptable
Memorable?
Classic Minimalist
Who makes the design, marketing and labeling decisions?
Labels
• •
Michael Kors
•
Kors Michael Kors
•
MICHAEL Michael Kors
A Senior Designer Martha Napier Lead Designer for Design Department. MICHAEL: Michael Kors Design Label, Special Markets. Manage Design Team and report directly to Vice President of Division. Personally responsible for 200+ styles per season (Wovens/ Denim/ Outerwear). Manage Design Team to develop 500+ styles per season (All Categories). Work directly with Sales/Merch/Production/Tech internally, and several Key Account Buyers List all creative team players
• Martha Napier • Senior Designe
Management Team Michael Kors Honorary Chairman, Chief Creative Officer and Director John D. Idol Chairman, Chief Executive Officer and Director Joseph B. Parsons Executive Vice President, Chief Financial Officer, Chief Operating Officer and Treasurer Britton Russell Senior Vice President, Global Operations Lee S. Sporn
Timeline II) IF I COULD ASK MY Designer 3 QUESTIONS, THEY WOULD BE: 1. If you were given the opportunity to study another career, what would it be? 2. What has been the most successful event? 3. How can you see yourself doing in 10 years?
PART #4 Manufacturing Details
I)
MY Fashion Designer is most INTERESTED IN THESE COUNTRIES/FASHION CAPITALS BECAUSE….
COUNTRY/FASHION CAPITAL New York
INTERESTED BECAUSE… Targeted international city where to expand full collection boutiques.
Beverly Hills
Targeted international city where to expand full collection boutiques. Also interested in developing sportive clothing for sunnier cities.
London Milan
Targeted international country where to expand full collection boutiques. Targeted international city where to expand full collection boutiques.
Tokyo
Competitive fashion market to consolidate his brand.
Timeline
Origin of the T-shirt Work of art, political mouthpiece, advertising billboard, fashion fetish, in less than 50 years the t-shirt has become a kind of textile chameleon. There is time when its multifaceted personality disguises what it really and truly is –a simple item of clothing or, It was adopted as an undershirt in the 1930s, and 20 years later, more accurately, underclothing. Before it came out as the unisex uniform for casual wear, the T-shaped white cotton undershirt had started to defy the postwar years of decorum by being displayed over already begun its career in the hidden realm of mens underwear. the tattooed biceps of rockers and These intimate beginnings helped to initiate its reputation as bike. something comfortable to wear. In its private contact with the skin was the origin of this revolutionary piece of underwear’s future success. The soft, cotton fabric, with its elastic texture both hugged the body and at the same time allowed it the freedom to move. The color white – symbol of cleanliness and purity – is still the T-shirt’s most popular color today. And, finally, the simplicity of its T-shaped form-hence its name –insured its popularity and staying power. The shirt proper took several centuries before it could hold its own as a fully-fledgded piece of clothing; the T-shirt was a lot luckier. It was adopted as an undershirt in the 1930s, and 20 years later, started to defy the postwar years of decorum by being displayed over the tattooed biceps of rockers and bike. The speed of its rise to fame offers a pretty good illustration of that particular day and age; a time when hosiery in general enjoyed a dazzling boom, as did jersey (another name for knitted fabric), which at the turn of the century had gradually surpassed woven fabrics in popularity. The First and Second World Wars also acted as the T-shirt’s very effective ambassadors. In its basic, early form, the T-shirt cut its teeth, so to speak, in the U.S. Navy, and then gained a firm foothold as the official underwear of the U.S. Army immediately after the Second World War. All the same time, its precise origins are still somewhat shrouded in mystery, and many theories jostle each other for position, as if bent on further fueling the T-shirt myth.
Timeline The sailor myth Like many recent products and technologies- for instance, the first buttoned shorts, designed during the Great War with American soldiers in mind -men’s underclothes were revolutionized at wartime. But the link between war and underwear goes back a lot further than 1914. As long ago as the Middle Ages, soldiers were covering their bodies above the waist with linen shirts made of flax, not so much for protection from the cold as to spare the skin from being chaffed by the heavy armor then worn by troops. This linen clothing was subsequently adopted by noblemen, who wore it to prevent their fine and costly garments from becoming stained from direct contact with the skin. With the introduction of hose and breeches-the forbears of trousers- the long tails of these shirts, packed between the legs, also servd as underpants or drawers. The shirt which was first and foremost a functional piece of clothing, actd as mens underwear up until the 1830s, a decade that freed it from its utilitarian status and turned it into an item that was, for a middle class gentleman, an integral part of the dress code. In Victorian times, when propriety declared the words ‘’underpants,” ‘’bloomers” and “pantaloons’’ indecent because they conjured up images of naked male legs, sailors were the first to offer official glimpses of the whiteness of their underclothes.
Timeline In about 1880, the uniform of the U.S. Navy actually revealed in the V-neck of its pullover-like jerseys a loose-fitting , cotton flannel-called ‘’flannelette’’-shirt with a square neck and buttons on the neckline. This could well be the T-shirt’s ancestor. Such, in any event, is the thesis, is the thesis advanced by Alice Harris in her book The White- T. Along with the famous flared white trousers, this official undergarment was revealed on board ships when arduorus tasks called for great freedom of movement. This shirt, which was lighter than pullovers and jerseys, also took less time to dry. The fairly casual uniform was earmarked just for grand occasions and shore leave. In a period conspicuous for starched collars, people looked a bit askance at bared necks. A British theory also connected with the world of the sea, offers another explanation of the T-shirts birth. Even in the latter years of the 19th century, sailors in the Royal Navy took to wearing under their blue uniforms a sleeveless, woolen undergarment which closely resemled the athletic shirt. One day, a member of the royal family (legend has it that it was Queen Victoria herself) announced that they would be making a surprise inspection of the fleet. The chief officer immediately drew up his troops and inspected his men one by one. Noting that these undershirts in no way did not conceal a sailor’s hirsute manliness-nor, for that matter, his tattoes –he orders the sailors to sew on sleeves, thus spairing the royal gaze the impropriety of
Timeline
such exposure. Whatever the T-shirt’s true origins was, in 1913 the U.S. Navy officially adopted “the short-sleeved, crewneck (collarless) version of the T-shirt to cover the chests of its old salts, “explains Alice Harris. At first made of wool; this undershirt began to be made of knitted cotton during the First World War. The damp, cold conditions of the trenches were more than enough to persuade sailors that the light, faster-drying fiber used to make the underclothing of French soldiers had its distinct advantages. It was practical, too, because the wide slit at its neck-henceforth known as the “American armhole” – meant that it was easy to slip over the head. These sea-dog origins contributed greatly to the T-shirt’s popularity. This cowboy of the waves, sporting his combination of freedom and individualism, bravery and cunning, has always been a source of fascination. For the working classes, the world of the sea offered dreams of glory and social advancement. The young, handsome, smiling sailor,
Timeline with his tattooed biceps and delianeated in his tight white wholesomebut steamy 1940s, an advertisement for sailor beside a girl clearly not with the three word slogan: Something.’’. The sailor’s had a certain allure, and the has been a crucial factor in drives. At the end of the 19th striped shirt even found its wardrobes.
his buttocks sharply trousers, embodied a eroticism. In the Coca-Cola depicted a immune to his charms, “That Extra uniform has always prestige implicit in it U.S. Navy recruitment century the sailor’s way into women’s
The underwear age Romantic origins aside, the T-shirt owes its existence above all else to a period when the hosiery boom, coupled with notions of hygiene and comfort, turned the world of men’s underwear upside down, not to mention inside out. In Europe, physical and mental health were one of the obsessions of the ‘’philantropic’’ middle classes of the 19th century. As the chosen target for these health-oriented concerns, underclothes were finally deemed to be worthy of interest (though it was not until the 1920s that taking regular baths and changing underwear on a weekly basis became an accepted habit in France). Woolen flannel was thought to be an effective weapon against colds and rheumatism, and was worn in the form of long underwear and undershirts buttoned right up to the neck and aptly named ‘’health cardigans.’’ Doctors and physicians looked learnedly into the matter of underclothes, and even launched their own brands. One such proponent was the celebrated Dr. Jaegger, a fierce champion of wool, and in his wake came Drs. Breton and Rasurel, vying for public popularity in their underwear crusade. In the mid-19th century, the hosiery industry underwent major expansion with the modernization of production and distribution. The manufacture of clothing veered away from cottage industries toward the mass-production of apparels which soon became accessible to a much broader public. This mass produced clothing was particularly attractive to working men and women whose ever-increasing numbers were causing the demand for cotton jersey to explode. From then on, underclothes were no longer luxury items. As a result of the cotton circular knitting loom (patented in 1863), knitted jersey surpassed woven fabrics, which vanished altogether from the underwear sector by the end of the century. A new concept of comfort came into being. Hosiery factories located mainly in the Carolinas and New England produced in less than one hour items that previously would have required three working days. Wool nevertheless remained much in demand on account of its luxury and warmth, but from the early 20th century on, cotton was eminently suitable for summer wear, because of its lightness and coolness. So underwear, too, began to follow the rhythm of the seasons.
Timeline At that time, it was sports that triggered a desire for comfort and gave rise to new forms of clothing. Paul Poiret cashed in on this development and gave women’s waists a bit more breathing space by lightning corsets , and Coco Chanel became the very first apostle of this fashion by using knitwear which in that day and age was deemed ‘’unseemly’’, too meager, too flimsy, just about good enough for underclothes. In the United States the range of underwear broadened and a new kind of elegance was introduced. The Union Suit was a comfortable one piece garment consisting of a sleeveless undershirt attached to a pair of underpants by a button-hole, and it was all the rage. Soldiers returning from the war also nudged this burgeoning athletic style along. Boasting a buttonhole and short sleeves with an elastic hem like a polo shirt, this cotton sports shirt, which could be found at the time in Sears, Roebuck & Co. mail-order catalogues, cost barely 50 cents, and was a harbinger of the T-shirt. In about 1930, it cropped up again with the Hanes company, manufacturers of underwear (at a later date, under the trade name of Fruit of the Loom, this became the number one T-shirt), which gave it the name ‘’gob shirt,’’ to emphasize its naval origins. The shirt, designed expressly for sports and leisure, had quite simply turned into the T-shirt.
T-shirt as hero In 1941, a catalogue ran an ad for its ‘’Army Style T-shirt.” For in the meantime the U.S. Navy, which was readying itself for another war, had designed a new version of the Tshirt – a round –necked 100% cotton shirt, shaped like a T. Sears, Roebuck and Co. made the most of this design and launched a new, attention-grabbing slogan: ‘’You needn’t be a soldierto have your own personal T-shirt.” The army image did actually contribute greatly to the popularity of the T-shirt among civilians. This undergarment, aligned with the qualities of bravery and manhood, managed to get the message across that its practical comfort and relative propriety put it somewhere beyond the narrow confines of underwear and sports garments. At war in the Pacific, the hot and humid tropical climate made wearing a shirt out of question. It was equally adept at being unobtrusive and could be rolled up into a tiny ball weighing just an ounce or two. Because of its whiteness, however, it was an easy target for the enemy. So it was dyed khaki, the better to blend into the lush and verdant landscape of the tropics.
Timeline That war, with all its media coverage, helped turn the T-shirt into a military icon, displayed on Life Magazine covers and in newsreels. Before the war was over, the T-shirt was already identified with the hero’s outfit. Throughout Europe, it appeared like a liberator, gracing GI chests and symbolizing modern America, along with chewing gum and nylon stockings. Hitherto worn by the Marines, that was coveted by the other fighting forces, envious of the comfort of this second skin. But they had to quarter until 1948 before they got its new and final version, ¾ leght sleeves. This is the T-shirt we know today. Worn by all ranks, the T-shirt managed to do away with social hierarchies and come across as a symbol of democracy. As worn upon returning from the front by the likes of Elvis Presley, John F. Kennedy as well as the working man, this item of under wear finally became an item of overwear. The cotton flower (The leading source of the T-shirt) Cotton, strictly speaking, is the long cellulose hairs that swathe the seeds of the cotton plant inside a capsular fruit. This extremely prolific shrub is a member of the family Malvaceae (hibiscus, mallow, etc.). There are some twenty major species, the most widely cultivated being gossyplum barbadense (origination from Barbados in the Caribbean) and G. hirsutum, the commonest of them all. After flowering, the fruit of the cotton plant grows to maturity in about 50 days, providing the seeds and the husk around them, from which derives the fibrous, downy cotton. When the seeds burst open it is time for the harvest to begin. This usually occurs in the autumn, and cannot be put off An age –old fiber In a 3,000 B.C., cotton was already being used to clothe the inhabitants of the Indus Valley; and 500 years later, cotton clothing was being worn by the peoples of northern Peru. Since then, cotton has been permanently on the move, gradually fanning out to all five continents. From very early on the Christian era, it was transported westward in caravans coming overland from India, to flourish along the shores of the Red Sea, eventually reaching all the way to Spain, in the 0th century A.D., with Moorish horsemen. In the Americas, it was used from the earliest days as currency in the Aztec Empire. Finally, European settlers adapted these plant species in Virginia, the Carolinas and Georgia. American cotton and Slavery To keep the mechanical looms spinning back in Britain, the colonies of the New World, where the pace of production was being slowed down by a dearth of labor, called upon the services of slave traders, who set sail for the shores of Africa in quest of “human ebony.” Hundreds of thousands of Africans were brought to the Americas to slave their lives away in the cotton fields. After the Civil War (1861-1865), cotton was stillgrown by black wage earners and white sharecroppers. Today, the great American cotton belt stretches from the Atlantic seaboard west to the Mississippi Valley, Oklahoma and Texas, Arizona, New Mexico and Southern California.
Timeline
The making of a T-shirt
For almost five decades, the Petit Bateau Company has been producing its T-shirts –from their knitting to their packaging in simple cardboard boxes –at Troyes, the hub of France’s hosiery industry. Everyday more than 1000 Egyptian cotton T-shirts (one of the best quality cottons, along with Sea Island) leave their factories to fill the wardrobes of children and grown-ups alike. Knitting and Dying Wound on gigantic bobbins –two pounds of spun cotton reach a length of nearby eight miles –the drawn and twisted threads are first put through a series of stress tests in the laboratory. Only the strongest are eligible to proceed to the knitting plant. Here, threaded onto dozens of needles arranged in circles, they are unwound at the hectic pace of the machinery, as row upon row; they knit a filmsy jersey tube. It takes around six miles of
Timeline yarns to make one T-shirt. Once formed, the knitted tubes are then placed in huge washing machines where they are dyed with the house colors. Cutting In a tube form, the lengths of fabric are laid one on top of the other like colossal layers of puff pastry, a hundred or so in all, some of which may reach a length of 55 yards. At this stage, the computer then works out the precise positioning of the different parts of the Tshirt, no matter what size. This virtual pattern is then fed into the automatic cutting machine, and guides the saws which, down to the nearest millimeter, cut dozens of sandwich panels made up of sleeves, backs and fronts. In this kit form, the T-shirts-to-be then sorted and arranged by size in trays to speed up the seamstresses’ task. Putting it all together Meanwhile, other hands are busily preparing the neckline trim which will add a bit of pizzazz to the T-shirt’s otherwise rather austere simplicity. In a matter of minutes, yards of tap, made with the same fabric –thus avoiding inconsistencies in color –parade perilously past, beneath the needles of the machines, and emerge sporting the famous perforated, halmoon topstich. The time has finally come to put the pieces of this textile puzzle together. At this point, the fronts are still being diverted so they can be embellished with silkscreened motifs and embroidery, while others are delivered to the skillfull hands of the seamstresess and their sewing machines, grouped together in small workshops. The T-shirts are assembled with a series of very precise operationson the assembly line. Working at two machines, one worker puts the front and the back together bby sewing the first shoulder, trims the neckline with the topstich, then finishes the second shoulder. The T-shirt-to-be –Still looking like a poncho- Is then united with its sleeves by another worker. Once stitched together, these two tubes are then assembled in a circle on the shoulders. All that remains to do now assemble the sides, and sew a hem around the bottom, so that all the pieces finally come together complete. A final check involves the finished shirt being drawn like a stocking over a metal form, where all its seams are inspected. Now its time to pack it in its yellow-and-blue striped cardboard box. Decorative Techniques Ever since the T-shirt found its voice, it has been increasing its graphic vocabulary in step with the various technological innovations that have occurred over the years. From the old-fashioned stenci to digital printing by way of transfers, this chatty piece of clothing which is never at a loss for words, offers everybody a way to express what they want to say. Printing Silkscreen Printing, known technically as serigraphy is one of the oldest of textile printing techniques, derived from the stencil principle. Thi process consists of drawing a motif on a silk or nylon screen with ink, which is then covered with a waterproof blocking solution made of glues or protective paints. Once dry, this design is then removed with a solvent. The printing inks are spread with a squeegee over the screen, thus finding their way throough the now easily penetrated mesh to print onto the fabric. The number of colors used can be varied and infinitum by changing the screenes. Silkscreen printing can also offer a variety of textual effects. Glazing paper hot-pressed on the print gives the motif a glossy or shiny look. Other popular effects are spangled,
Timeline scented luminescent, phosphorescent, heat sensitive and reflective. Nowadays, silkscreen inks make any fantasy possible. Hot Processes The hot transfer technique, introduced in 1963, is easier and faster to use. All you do is draw or print the motif of your choice with a a felt-tip or marker, using silkscreen ink on special paper which is applied on the underside of the fabric; apply heat (a simple iron will suffice) and pressure, and the motif becomes fixed on the fibers, just like a transfer or decal. These days, thanks to computers, we can print T-shirts ourselves in a thoroughly professional way. All you need to do is divise or reproduce motifs using graphics software, print them on transfer paper, and apply them to the fabric using a hot iron. Embossing processes Flock Printing. With this technique it is possible to create relief patterns and designs. The fabric is coated with glue which is then dusted with microscopic colored fibers. These fibers are attached by an electrostatic field, and cling perpendicularly to the surface of the fabric they take on a velvety look. Bubble Coating. With this process it is possible to make embossed motifs. The fabric is coated with glue and sprinkled with microscopic colored fibers. These fibers are attracted by an electrostatic field and flattened perpendicular to the fabric’s surface. Where they will take on a velvety appearance. Embroidery. Like any other fabric, the T-shirt can also be embroidered. Whether decorated mechanically or manually, it can be enhanced by gold thread, beads, spangles, sequins or feathers. On an emblem, the embroidery, known as thermobrod, is either applied by iron or sewn to the fabric. Interactive T-shirt. The graphic T-shirt is a static object. Some designers long for dynamic T-shirts involving electric circuits and thermo chromatic inks for visual effects unprecedented in T-shirts. The ‘’T-Qualizer’’ is a shirt with a built in sound detector that lights up an LED equalizer depending on the sound environment. However, AAA battery pockets are sewn into the Tshirt. Pattern is a Japanese T-shirt design project founded by Daito Manabe, an artist /programmer/designer/engineer. Underwear comes out on top Emancipation of the T-shirt After the war, the T-shirt became emblematic of a victorious America. In the puritanical and conformist America of the 1950s, showing your T-shirt outside the privacy of your own home, or anywhere other than in stadiums, was still considered bad taste. Together with blue jeans, this item of underweae was for a long time the uniform of the workingclasses. If worn for physical labor, or beneath a checked Chambray shirt, it absorbed the workers noble sweat as it the sailor’s in earliest times. In order to become the mythical piece of clothing that we know so well, it needed soul and style. And this what the ‘’rebellious’’ young, in search of an identity to call their own, would bring to the T-shirt. They made up that new social class which would become more and more important over
Timeline years. The T-shirt, now inseparable from blue jeans and leather or denim jackets, foreshadowed the anti-fashion trends of the 1960s. Hollywood’s rising stars would swiftly promote it to the rank of icon. In those Cold Wars years, Europe’s eyes were riveted on the United States, fascinated as everyone was by that new economic and cultural model. Young people on the other side of the Atlantic were quick to appropriate those new images being shown at the movies. Be it torn open on Marlon Brando’s torso in Elia Kazan’s A streetcar Named Desire, or peeping out, dazzlingly white, from under James Dean’s red jacket in Rebel Without a cause, the T-shirt flaunted its sexuality and emanated the sweet smell of revolt. It would be the banner of rebellion for a whole generation. The T-shirt had finally found its way into the history of fashion and was there to stay.
The t-shirt and art In the 1980s against a backdrop of soaring prices, New York artists invoked the name of Jean-Michel Basquiat and the graffiti artists to forge links with figurative art forms, given its style this time around by various forms of street culture. Following in the footsteps of Keith Haring’s trademark dancing figures. Kenny Scharf and one or two other artists popularized the graffiti-style movement in New York, whose inspiration came from street artists in marginal neighborhoods –but their original successs eventually fell victim to the art market crash. Their works bursting with life and deliberately disorderly had a homemade look about them, pointing to the democratization of a particular discipline. Tshirts had more vitality than posters, and thus came across as the natural medium for getting their works out the turned-on throng. For the T-shirt is something that offers freedom by flowing with the body’s movements rather than restricting and confining them. In the privacy of their studios, many artists turned the T-shirt into their ordinary working garb. Just as Picasso painted in striped jerseys in the 1930s, Jackson Pollock, tortured genius of Action Painting, was certainly one of the first artists –along with Willem de Kooning –to work in a T-shirt, back in the immediate postwar years. While the 1980S ushered fashion into museums –at the same time rejoicing over the demise of haute couture –the lowliest of clothing items was being promoted by artists as a by-product, well suited to offering their works to the private needs of the public. Several things helped the T-shirt to permeate the boundary between high and low. The hippies’ favorite cartoonist, Robert Crumb, had already featured his long-haired lay bouts on T-shirts, just as other comic strip authors –Walt Disney first and foremost –had done with their characters. The issue of uniqueness, combined with the work-of –art statues, now seemed nothing if not obsolete, ever since the photograph, lending itself quintessentially to reproduction, had been elevated to the ranks of the ‘’serious’’ arts. By making Pop Art an outrider of mass production, Andy Warhol’s silkscreened portraits gave the T-shirt free rein. Media and surfaces suitable for artistic expression, whose production costs have consistently dropped with industrialization, also enable ‘’amateur’’ artists (thanks to the transfer technique) to put their works on view for large audiences. Henceforth, anyone and everyone can be a creative artist.
Timeline Evolution of the T-shirt The 1950s The T-shirt began to enter popular culture and went from an everyday clothing item to something more fashionable.
The 1960s At the height of the counter culture movement, T-shirts became an international, unisex medium for every possible type of message via the silkscreen process. The T-shirt was popular in spite of the reduction of farms and factories . As a cultural record, the Tshirt, with its graphic images and types, was perfect for representing one’s persona.
Timeline Political protesters chose to wear T-shirts to display their ideological messages and their identity as one group. During the 1960s, new media and techniques came to play an important role in popular culture: color printing began to be used more extensively in magazines and photography. The appeareance of the Pop Art style wiped out old concepts of art by representing the whole culture as if it were art. Pop art was neither abstract nor realistic. Instead, it represented cultural interest in mass media such as pop music, movies and comic strips.
The 1970s From the peace-and- love movement, which peaked with the hippies of the early 1970s, to the punk culture marking the end of the decade, we find a street phenomenon that wanted to edge out of fashion and set the body free. The T-shirt was a pivotal player in this revolution of lifestyles and attitudes, and would be used by the various anti fashion trends. It was in the 1970s that the portals of the fashion world really opened up to the T-shirt. April 1975, Elle Magazine wagered that the T-shirt would become a basic item of clothing that would never go out of fashion, rather like the trench coat. Designers, couturiers and consumers all discovered at the same time that this form, which hugs the shape of the body, is the most natural and simple, and, at the end of the day, the one best suited to all manner of variation. All it takes is a bright material to turn a maxi T-shirt into an evening gown.
1980s
Timeline After the punk interlude was turned into a fashion genre by Vivienne Westwood- who came up with asymmetrical T-shirts for neoromantic –the 1980s ushers in the comeback of the shirt proper, along with suits and dresses, in a word smart clothes. The T-shirt covered with imitation jewelry, may have hallmarked the golden age of Disco, but it was the black T-shirt that offered a patent of trendiness to young gallery owners in the hip neighborhoods of New York, Paris and London. The T-shirt also brought into vogue an innovative fabric that would help revolutionize it: Lycra. Developed by DuPont chemists, this versatile fiber made it possible for the garment to cling to the body without constricting it. Fashion, in this decade, switched, switched to sport, and many brands would gradually launch second lines, focusing more on sportswear. Above the perennial merry-go-round of fashion, the 1980s were to lay the foundations for the decade to come by honoring a handful of Japanese designers in Paris, their intent being nothing less than to revolutionize the entire structure of the clothing industry.
The 1990s The first, among the Japanese designers, to deconstruct the T-shirt was Yohji Yamamoto, who turned his T-shirt into his own personal uniform, while he gave his male customers a chance to wear white T-shirts with dark suit, thus inventing s new chic that would be a huge success. In the 1982-1983 autumn winter seasons, for her Commme des Garcons brand, the most avant-garde of the Japanese designers, Rei Kawakubo, presented woolen sweater full of holes over an asymmetrical T-shirt. The collection was deemed revolutionary, and rightly so. There was even talk of a ‘’post-Hiroshima’’ look. Ten years later, Kawakubo would play around with asymmetry with T-shirts inspired by constructivism. Black, green and fuzzy orange then jockeyed for position in abstract geometric designs. For the ‘’bosses’’ collection (spring/summer 1997), Comme des Garcons did away with hackneyed criteria of female beauty by rebuilding the body on new shapes and volumes. The 1990s saw a serious financial crash, an upsurge of HIV/AIDS, the rack and ruin of many an 1980s master of the universe, the triumph of Puritan America over an Old World bogged down in recession and mere weariness. It was a decade that encouraged the individual to hunker down in clothes reduced to their essentials. From this moment on, all things functional topped the value chart, abbreviating the range of expression in fashion by several octaves. At times this development went hand in hand with a certain degree of violence, tinged with a philosophical brand or pessimism. At the beginning of this new age, Martin Margiela, one of the Belgian designers who was a
Timeline source of inspiration for the vogue of black , was first to come up with punkoid T-shirts. For the summer of 1990 he presented T-shirts made with plastic supermarket bags –this recycling spirit would become his trademark. Eight years later, he produced oversized tank-tops worn like a shirtfront, with a simple elastic fastener behind. Fashion minimalism was born: ‘’Like anything, the most important element for me is the choice of fabrics and materials. They can range from simple pure cotton to precious cashmere and technical rayon. I tend to choose color that I have based on nature, so tones normally range from white, blue, sand, stone, and ruby, to green and earth.’’ Ecology and recycling were hot topics and found their way to the showrooms. The organic cotton T-shirt also made its appearance. In 1995, a long sleeved white version for men flaunted the striped wording: ‘’ The Rock Sex Symbol.’’ The designer explained it thus: “For us, the T-shirt is a democratic item of clothing. The simple cut means that we can play with designs and decorations and materials to create a garment that’s comfortable and elegant, functional and glamorous. The main thing is for the proportions to stay balanced ‘’
Nowadays Today’s T-shirt is a standard, a banner and a manifesto, a subtle and a visiting card – almost an ID card. It proclaims loud and clear what people are thinking deep down. It’s like an extremely private skin; it is cut and scratched, tattooed and painted, all to become customized. Whatever else they may do, people never put on a T-shirt just like that –thoughtlessly. Form is every bit as important as content. Everyone wants it to have ideal proportions, as well as an ideal cut and texture, because the T-shirt extends, rebalances and magnifies our shapes and sizes. But I don’t recognize any fetishes in them, even if I usually wear those that are overdyed and printed with a red cross from a certain surplus store in London, and even if I’ve been fond of designing for causes like Act Up and AIDS. Sumptuary Laws While there are rarely restrictions on the type or quality of clothing, beyond maintenance of public decency (covering parts of the body, depending upon the jurisdiction; not exhibiting unacceptable wording or images), it is widely forbidden to wear certain types of clothing restricted to specific occupations, specifically the uniforms of organizations such as police and the military. In some jurisdictions clothing or other visible signs of religious or political opinion are forbidden in certain public places. Gender Roles Female version
Timeline Previously an exclusively male prop, the 1960s would see the T-shirt used to reveal the eroticism of new generation of actresses. In the early 1960s, Brigitte Bardot showed off her voluptuous curves in the French film Babette Goes to War. But it was Jean Seberg who would make film history in the pivotal French Wave movie Breathless as Patricia, a young American selling the Herald Tribune on the Champs-Elisees. Roundly splashed across the front of her white T-shirt are the letters of her paper- an image that became hugely famous. As an embodiment of the new youth, embracing Lolita-like girls and androgynous seductresses, the T-shirt made its gradual contribution to ‘’Girl Power’’ on view in movie houses. Thelma and Louise turned it into the symbol of their fatal escapade to freedom, while Demi Moore used the T-shirt to display her perfectly muscled body as a statement of equality.
Prominent users of the T-shirt
Possible Evolutions of the T-shirt
Having traveled back time the T-shirt’s journey, this classic item has been playing a fundamental role in our everyday wardrobe. These are the possible evolutions that the Tshirt may follow:
Timeline Upcoming T-shirts made with a variety of fabrics like Satin along with Cotton. We are getting into a fancier age with huge demand. More adaptations in terms of design like different collars, cuffs, sleeve trimmings. T-shirts showing sex appeal like crops. Upcoming decorative techniques related to technology. Reversible T-shirts in two different fabrics. E.g. (Cotton and Wool). Recycled T-shirts using a vast of materials like cans, plastic, etc., being technically processed. Visual attention grabbing messages displaying social concerns. A combination of styles like Punk, Vintage and Hippie. More graphic T-shirts.
Timeline
Rock and Roll Uniformity
Origins Due to This type of music the was able to break racial barriers and bring people together who danced carefree to the catchy sound of one of the most famous music genres mankind ever produced. The origin overpopulation in most cities cause by the migrations, black and white people were forced to live close to each other, a
situation that was far from comfortable since this happened when segregation laws were respected in a religious way. However, there was something that black and white people had very much in common: the love for music. They would get together to play African rhythms and classic African American music such as rhythm and blues and jazz. They would mix them with European instruments and that is how rock n’ roll was first created.
Timeline During the rock n’ rolls years, the fashion sense that dominated on the dance floor was all about tight-fitting colorful outfits, with flowery and colorful shirts. The hairdo that all men had to have was the famous pompadour which was
made famous by Little Richard and then copied by Elvis Presley as well.
History shows that rock 'n' roll was born in 1947, at the time of Christian Dior's New Look.
Rock and roll artists have had a long relationship with the world of high fashion.
1950’s Rockabilly Elvis Presley (1935-1977) was the first enduring rock 'n' roll idol, and his look was as popular as his sound. Elvis swiveled his hips and wore wideshouldered jackets and loose, lightweight slacks that moved with him. He radiated rock 'n' roll style and attitude with his ducktail, a favorite hairstyle of the time that he made popular, sideburns, and mock-surliness.
Timeline Elvis
Presley’s iconic gold lame suit
designed
by Nudie. Nudie Cohn,
Men During the decade, the types of parentally approved and appropriate dress for teen boys consisted of loose-fitting slacks, an ironed shirt and tie, a sports jacket, and polished black or brown loafers. Haircuts were short and neat. Clean-cut preppy boys donned tan chinos, a type of pants that ended just below the ankles, V-neck sweaters, and white buck shoes or Top-Siders, deck shoes.
Women
Timeline Their female equivalents wore saddle shoes, bobby socks, blouses with pleated skirts, high waist shorts, high waist skirts or dirndl dresses, which featured lots of petticoats, and came sleeveless or with puffed sleeves. Favored hairstyles included the ponytail and bouffant, hair that was teased and combed up to stand high on a woman's head.
1960’s
Hippie
Timeline
The 60’s was characterized by bright, swirling colors. Psychedelic, tie-dye shirts and long hair and beards were commonplace. Woman wore unbelievably short skirts and men wore tunics and capes. The foray into fantasy would not have been believed by people just a decade earlier. It’s almost like the 1950s bottled everyone up so much that the late 1960s exploded like an old pressure cooker. Women were showing more skin than ever before. Flowy gypsy tops Bell bottoms Headbands
Timeline 1970’s Transition from hippie to Punk
Skinny jeans have come a long way since the Ramones wore slimfitting denim in the 70s.
70s fashion, which began with a continuation of the miniskirts, bell-bottoms and the androgynous hippie look from the late 1960s, was soon sharply characterized by several distinct fashion trends that have left an indelible image of the decade commemorated in popular culture. These include platform shoes which appeared on the fashion scene in 1971 and often had soles two to four inches thick. Both men and women wore them. Wide-legged, flared jeans and trousers were another fashion mainstay for both men and women throughout most of the decade. With the popularization of disco and the increasing availability and diversity man-made fabrics, a drastic change occurred in mainstream fashion. Short-sleeved t-shirts of various colors personalized with iron-on decal illustrations or appliquéd letters spelling a name or message were very popular among teen and preteen boys in the U.S. during the late 70s. Vivienne Westwood Pistols
The Sex
Timeline 1980’s The Punk movement
Punk fashion began as a reaction against both the hippie movement of the past decades and the materialist values of the current decade. Many styles from the late 1970s remain fashionable in the early 1980s. In the 1970s, the silhouette of fashion tended to be characterized by close fitting clothes on top with wider, looser clothes on the bottom. This trend completely reversed itself in the early 1980s as both men and women began to wear looser shirts and tight, close-fitting trousers. Madonna became a fashion icon for many young women around the world who copied her "street urchin" look with short skirts worn over leggings, brassieres worn as outer clothing, untidy hair, crucifix jewelery, and fishnet gloves. Brand names became increasingly important in this decade, making Lauren and Calvin Klein household names, among others.
1990’s Grunge and alternative rock
Ralph
Timeline Nirvana Whitney Houston Tupac Shakur
The fashion in the 1990s was the genesis of two sweeping shifts in the western world: the beginning of fashion rejection and the beginning of the adoption of tattoos, body piercings aside from ear piercing and to a lesser extent, other forms of body modification such as branding. This started the indifferent, anti-conformist approach to fashion which was popular throughout the 1990s, leading to the popularization of the casual chic look, including T-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and trainers which continued into the 2000s. The popularity of grunge and alternative rock music also helped bring the simple, unkempt grunge look mainstream.
2000 to Present Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from Vivienne Westwood designs to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including glam rock, skinheads, rude boys, greasers, and mods have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of popular culture. Many punks use clothing as a way of making a statement. Punk fashion has been extremely commercialized at various times, and many well-established fashion designers — such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier — have used punk elements in their production. Skinny jeans Band shirts/ sweatshirts Hoodies Converse/vans
Timeline Striped tube socks Bondage pants Toned down versions of 70’s punk Fringe/side sweep hairstyles, bright colors.
2000’s Fashion Designers Collection
Timeline
\
Jean Paul G. Vivienne Westwood
Funny Face is a 1957 American musical film directed by Stanley Donen, containing assorted songs by George and Ira Gershwin. Although having the same title as the 1927 Broadway musical Funny Face by the Gershwin brothers, and featuring the same male star (Fred Astaire), the plot is totally different and only four of the songs in the stage musical are included. The screenplay was written by Leonard Gershe and in addition to Astaire it stars Audrey Hepburn and Kay Thompson. Photographer Richard Avedon designed the opening title sequence and consulted on the film; Astaire played Dick Avery, a still photographer, who is based in part on Avedon.
Timeline Funny Face is a fabulous movie where fashion, love and music mix together, resulting in what we call today vintage trends. Seeing this movie, I can notice how the 50’s fashion was, and even discover how it comes back in our times. In this classic film choice, you are able to see the influence of color (multicolor) and simplicity translated into new stylish designs, standing out the 50’s women silhouette (garments accentuates the body) by then. The main character: Audrey Hepburn, an iconic symbol in fashion since then, has left a legacy of pride to many women with the evolution of the dresses.
Key Characters Audrey Hepburn as Jo Stockton: After an attack in a fashion magazine office, Jo is flown to Paris where her career in fashion skyrockets. From haute couture, to Parisian beatnik, and brainy bookworn, Jo’s wardrobe is as diverse as other, more modern, fashion icons. From the classic trench, to white socks and black cigarette pants, to vibrant green opera gowns, her wardrobe covers it all. Fred Astaire as Dick Avery: His style is mainly characterized by a Teddy boy trend from the 50’s, wearing classic tailored cut suits and preppy pants. Kay Thompson as Maggie Prescott: the style she embodies is more as a professional woman, yet very feminine, wearing pencil skirts and blazers along with a variety of accessories such as gloves, pins and hats.
Key Looks
Timeline
Accesso ries Fashion accessory is an item which is used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to the wearer's outfit. The term came into use in the 19th century. Accessories are often used to complete an outfit and are chosen to specifically complement the wearer's look.
50’s Reinterpretation in the present.
Timeline
Today’s Trends. T-shir t and accessor y Collection ďƒ˜
Inspiration
The Runaways
Red cotton T-shirt with silk tie sewn on it. Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: a wide large clutch Details: two layers covers. The first over the second one with some glittered studs. Color: 1st layer: black 2nd layer gold Texture: leather
Timeline
Beige cotton T-shirt with denim studded pockets and zippers.
Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: Boater hat Design: Covered all over with denim and rounded with zipper cross-linked. Color: Blue Texture: Denim over boater’s straw.
Olive green printed aztec shapes.
Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: ž gloves fingerless Design: lace details in the front Color: Brown Texture: Cotton, polyester and Rayon.
Timeline Faded blue rolled up sleeves with V-neck in sequins.
Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: Big Design: Center with tiny stones Color: violet Texture: Gold very
oval ring stone surrounded sparkiling gold tactile.
Plain brown tshirt with a tied bow, underneath a flowered top. Style:
Punk
Rock Silhouette: all around necklace and earrings Design: double pearl chain cross-linked with lace pattern. Color: white and gold Texture: very tactile
Timeline Motorcycle graphic Tees
Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: bandana Design: Aztec printed bandana with fringes Color: white and gray Texture: Gold very tactile.
Striped long sleeve black and white or brown and caramel with bold plain chest.
Punk
Silhouette: high with a shape and the Color: black and beige
Style: Rock
pumps heels Design: printed in sequins zipper in middle
Timeline Texture: leather
Black corset tied t-shirt with silver satin neck. Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: Clutch purse Design: woven patterns with tiny painted caps and straps Color: black and silver caps Texture: velvet
Black and white bodysuit t-shirt with whi te shirt underneath and net sleeves. Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: Vintage hat Design: beaded around with feathers Color: black and silver beads along with cloth waves Texture: leather
Timeline White cotton t-shirt with leather rounded neck, 他 sleeves and diagonal leather pockets.
Style: Punk Rock Silhouette: wide bow headband Design: studded topknot with net Color: black and burgundy Texture: spandex and cotton