Black.
“Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy - but mysterious. But above all black says this: ”I don’t bother you - don’t bother me”.” Yohji Yamamoto
Black. for LUX&NOAH This report looks at the development of a luxury menswear collection called ‘Black.’ for an existing brand, LUX&NOAH. LUX&NOAH is a relatively new high-end menswear brand that bridges the gap between Fashion and Music whilst always having an underlying sustainable angle. Black. whilst sometimes using similar techniques to those used within LUX&NOAH, is entirely it’s own project and will only use the brand for its existing marketing tools and retail platforms. A large number of brands have been heavily reliant on cheap labour, material sourcing and garment manufacturing from the East whilst happily ignoring any ethical accountability especially with regards to fair-trading and pollution. The two biggest issues with this current international trade for the involved companies is the increased global logistical cost directly impacting on themselves and the enormous contribution to the world’s pollution due to its carbon footprint. Many brands are seen to feature ethical lines or at least an ethical code of conduct that they work alongside and although being a positive feature, unfortunately in many situations it is only a PR and marketing tool. The positive and incredible subject of sustainability is continuously marketed in a dreary, uninspiring and dictating manner particularly when attempting to be involved with the younger markets allowing them to switch off easily. Black. for LUX&NOAH will hold moral integrity and take full ethical responsibility whilst never using it as a marketing tool and instead use it to become an honest transparent brand. The report explains of how the main marketing content of Black. will come from working with the music industry for positive creative and business outcomes. These outcomes will become the defining characteristics of Black. steering the collection towards its desired consumer base. Garment manufacturing and the majority of material sourcing will take place within the UK to combat the carbon footprint but to essentially localise employment- a huge problem in today’s economy. There is a growing demand for the ‘Made in England’ tag by foreign markets and to remain true to this will gain brand loyalty from consumers, something very important for the collection to attain. Extensive research has been undertaken throughout the report to discover the consumer’s needs and a niche gap in the market to ensure success.
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Contents
1. Concept 1/1 Concept 1/2 Ethos & Values 1/3 USP 2. Competitors 2/1 The Competition 2/2 Competitor Product Range 2/3 Competitor Case Study
1-2
3. The Consumer
19 - 28
2/3/1 SWOT Analysis 2/3/2 PR & Marketing 2/3/3 Website 2/3/4 Brand Ambassadors 2/3/5 Collaborations 2/3/6 Magazine Features 2/3/7 Blog Features 2/3/8 Store Layout 2/3/9 World Stockists
3/1 Income 3/2 Primary Research 3/3 Favourite Brands 3/4 Research 3/5 Colours 3/6 Secondary Consumers 3/7 Future Consumers
2 2 2
5 - 18
7-8 9 - 10 11 - 18
12 14 15 15 15 16 16 16 17 - 18
20 21 - 22 23 24 25 26 27 - 28
4. Market Positioning
29 - 36
5. Branding and Marketing
37 - 48
6. Brand Focus
49 - 68
4/1 Price Architecture 4/2 Product Range 4/3 Retail 4/4 Retail Exclusivity 4/5 Showrooms 4/6 Online Retailing 5/1 Logo 5/2 Black Label Research 5/3 Primary Branding 5/4 Secondary Branding 5/5 Packaging 5/6 The Swing-Tag 5/7 The Music Industry 5/8 Brand Ambassadors 5/9 Designer/Musician Collaborations 5/10 Collaboration 5/11 Social Media 5/12 Product Placement 5/13 Sponsorship 5/14 Showrooms 5/16 Publications 5/17 Further Exposure Opportunities 6/1 Inspiration 6/2 Colour Palette 6/3 Sustainability 6/3/1 Beyond Product 6/3/2 Empathy 6/3/3 Consumption 6/3/4 Production & Processes 6/3/5 Materials & Their Applications 6/3/6 Design 6/4 Product Range Material Overview 6/5 Fabric Selection 6/6 Product Characteristics 6/7 Supply Chain & Critical Path 6/8 Design 6/9 Construction 6/10 Components 6/11 Specialist Services
7. Evaluation 8. Bibliography
9. Appendix - External Booklet
30 31 - 32 33 33 34 35 - 36 38 39 40 40 41 - 42 43 -44 45 45 46 47 47 47 47 47 48 48
50 - 52 53 - 54 55 -- 56 55 55 55 56 56 56 57 - 58 59 - 60 61 - 62 63 - 64 65 65 66 67 - 68 71 - 72 73 - 74
Concept
Concept
Ethos and Values
The aim of Black. is to investigate all connotations attached to the colour black and how it is heavily used to make the cool guy in the background ‘unnoticeably noticeable’. Intimidation, seriousness and arrogance come to mind but what is certain is that “the depth of black takes each situation and makes it more so” (Wild, 2013:63). Tired of the current fast paced lifestyle, mass consumerism and intrusive society, black is commonly used in clothing to help reject this and act as a shield against others’ attempts to approach you in any way. Black is less likely to degrade in meaning or value because it retracts itself from being a seasonal trend. It is a transcending fashion that will always be with us, a reason to buy less but spend more on those products which will last a life time. Black is commonly used as a uniform, a stripped down wardrobe you commit yourself to, something that The xx have adopted- a subject that Black. will investigate further. This project will create a luxurious high-end menswear collection containing only select colours framed by Black. The extraction of colour will allow for attention on texture and silhouette, vital for the complex understanding of each products technical pattern cutting. Black. will explore how the modern day man cultivates a relationship with his clothing in order to manipulate his style to communicate his bespoke identity.
There is a strict list of values and ethical responsibilities that Black. for LUX&NOAH will adhere to.
USP Outerwear will be coated in hydrophobic properties not only to repel rain but any form of dirt. The need for after-care washing will decrease by 30% 70% of fabrics will be manufactured in Britain. All products will be manufactured within the UK. Fabric, component and manufacturing process will be illustrated in a physical timeline and will accompany all products at retail. Black. will work across all creative fields and industries to deliver a young, fresh exciting collection. Black. will collaborate with musicians. The collection will feature 3D printed accessories.
Black. for LUX&NOAH
Transparency. To be honest and transparent in all actions and communications whilst always being truthful and forthright. Do the right thing. Hold ethical integrity. Demonstrate moral courage even where there is persuasive pressure. Loyalty. Never put loyalty above other ethical principles but place a high value on protecting and advancing the interests of the customer and colleagues. Commit. Pursue excellence in performing all duties. Be well informed, research well and be prepared. Constantly endeavor to increase proficiency in all areas of responsibility. Lead. Remain concious of all responsibilities and opportunities and seek to be the role models for our followers. Reputation. Protect and build the brand’s reputation and take whatever action necessary to correct or prevent inappropriate conduct of others. Deliver. Always deliver quality, well designed, sustainable British products that will enrich peoples lives, transcend through all fashions and last a life time.
2
“His stillness creates tension so intense it can be released with a single movement.� Oliver Sim, The xx by Fantastic Man
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Competitors
Fig.1 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.2 Acne (2013), Fig.3 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.4 Jonathan Saunders (2012), Fig.5 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.6 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.7 Acne (2013), Fig.8 Agi & Sam (), Fig.9 Agi & Sam (2013)
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The Competition Tailoring is a talent that runs through all Neil Barrett designs. The collection signature is always minimal menswear that combines luxurious fabrics and traditional Italian craftsmanship. There is also a feel of a high-tech sportswear mood throughout but always keeping focused on delivering strong masculine products. The fit of each product is highly important as all garments usually include a sharp slim line silhouette. The designs are a result of what the modern gentleman wants bringing together “timeless menswear staples of cut and fabric, alongside striking, streamlined styling for the twenty-first century.” (Barrett, 2013). All production, distribution and delivery is done in Tuscany, near Florence. There is a core belief that by focusing on fabrics suppliers, new technologies and artisan producers in Italy it will bring constant success. Neil Barrett also offers womenswear which incorporate the same minimal luxury product outlook. NB has a flagship store in Tokyo, Japan with other stores in Hong Kong and Korea. The brand is sold mostly in department stores and boutiques all around the world. Jonathan Saunders is world renowned for his high-end womenswear collections incorporating bespoke prints. Recently, Jonathan Saunders has transformed his knowledge into menswear. He uses traditional silk screening techniques, developing his ongoing concept of engineering his prints around pattern pieces. Evolving from this, Saunders has began to focus on the “development of an architectural, clean form” (Saunders, 2013), something that has helped his menswear products take centre stage in the apparel market. His current collections have included colourful camouflage shirts, zigzagged or striped knitted jumpers, colour-blocked military coats and two-tone rubber shoes. Jonathan Saunders has no flagship store and instead is stocked mostly in department stores and boutiques
Opening Ceremony began as “a place to share their passions for travel, art, and fashion.” (Opening Ceremony, 2013). There is stores in New York, London, and Los Angeles and Opening Ceremony is stocked in a department store in Tokyo where they stock both iconic and emerging homegrown designers. Opening Ceremony also has a blog, an e-commerce site, a TV channel, and an annual magazine. Every year they visit a different country in order to inspire their yearly collection. This keeps the brand fresh and exciting. OC always try to build a creative environment that reaches far beyond the fashion world. Collaboration is a key area of Opening Ceremony’s great success, having collaborated with brands such as Maison Martin Margiela, Rodarte and Spike Jonze. Opening Ceremony launched a small range of their own which included forward-thinking mens and womenswear. The line is now a permanent collection of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories sold at over two hundred retailers worldwide. Opening Ceremony bring the colour and humour to high-end fashion. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the founders of OC are now the creative directors of Kenzo.
Creative Director Jonny Johansson’s interest in photography, art, architecture and contemporary culture helped turn Acne Studios into a well-respected multidisciplinary creator of ready-to-wear fashion- both menswear & womenswear, magazines, furniture, books and exhibitions. Each collection is always “defined by Jonny Johansson’s signature juxtaposing design and attention to detail, with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials and custom developed fabrics. The collections cover men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories and denim.” (Acne, 2013). Acne Studios has flagship stores in Stockholm, Paris, London, New York City and Tokyo. Acne is sold in over 200 retailers around the world.
New to the fashion world, Agi & Sam have secured their place amongst the high-end menswear market. The brand and it’s collections revolve around the contemporary prints designed for menswear and womenswear by Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton. The brand is sponsored by Topman and Fashion East to show at MAN on schedule at London Fashion Week. Agi & Sam are also part of London Show Rooms by the British Fashion Council where their collections are shown in Paris. They also have a PR team to handle all of their exposure, ‘Exposure PR’.
£2000
£1750
Price Architecture
£1500
Neil Barrett Opening Ceremony Jonathan Saunders Acne Agi & Sam Black.
£1250
£1000
£750
£500
£250
Shirts
Tshirts
Shorts
Pants
Jackets
Coats
Jumper
Fig.10 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.11 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig 12 Jonathan Saunders (2012), Fig.13 Jonathan Saunders (2012), Fig.14 Jonathan Saunders (2013), Fig.15 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.16 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.17 Acne (2013), Fig.18 Acne (2013),
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Product Range Amongst all of Black.’s competitors there stands select product groups apparent through all. Running themes, colours and textures in opposing products can influence design to achieve a Black. product range that fits into a unique position- offering something that is not currently available.
22
26
27
28
23
24
30
39
31
40
33
32
41
Fig.21 Lou Dalton (2013), Fig.22 Christopher Kane (2013), Fig.23 Dries Van Noten (2013), Fig.24 Christopher Kane (2013), Fig.25 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.26 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.27 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.28 Balenciaga (2013), Fig.29 Agi & Sam (2013), Fig.30 Lanvin (2013), Fig.31 John Galliano (2013), Fig.32 Dior (2013), Fig.33 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.34 Opening Ceremony (2013), Fig.35 Neil Barrett (2013), Fig.36 Agi & Sam (2013), Fig.37 Gucci (2013), Fig.38 Balenciaga (2013), Fig.39 Christopher Kane (2013), Fig.40 Dries Van Noten (2013), Fig.41 Louis Vuitton (2013)
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Neil Barrett / Case Study
gths strengths stren
ngths strengths stre
oppo rtun
op p o rtu nit i e s opp o r t un itie s opp o r t unit ies
ities - Collaborate with oppo actors/musicians rather than rtun ities be unadventurous with standard product placement. - Experiment more with silhouette but shouldn’t fall out of the renowned Neil Barrett signature aesthetic.
Black. for LUX&NOAH
weaknes s
oppo rtun ities
- The use of print is hugely minimal. - Not very experimental with the placement and use of colour. - Not experimental with silhouettes. - No conceptual products. - Not ideal for muscular or larger builds. - Suits seem hugely out of place and don’t fit with the rest of the brand. - The focus of celebrity culture is too much. - High price tags.
es w e a k n e s s e s w eaknesse s
- Experiments with texture. - Consistent signature style throughout all collections. - All products are highly commercial. - Functional products. - Masculine design approach. - Minimal and well executed colour palette. - Incredible use of black. - Minimal accessories styling. - Clean and concise styling.
weaknesses weaknesses weaknesses
Weaknes se s
strengths strengths strengths strengths
- Price points are too high for basic products. - Unapparent product life story. ats e r - Unaware of any ethical social awareness the th s brand may have/not have. at - The absence of experimental or daring re h t design may prove boring to the mass ts a audience. re
hr
e hr t ts ea r th
t ats
t ts a e
ats e hr
th
12
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14
Website The Main/Pre collection tabs are hidden away and the options are confusing making them easily overlooked. The About section is vast and at some points unnecessary, an area that doesn‘t fit with the minimal, well executed approach. The brand ethos is lost in all of this information and it would be better to have a specific page explaining the philosophy behind the brand and its designs. Information about Neil Barratt stores is vacant and there’s zero information about where the brand is stocked. Standard corporate information is supplied at the bottom of the website regarding how to purchase items, privacy policy, contacts, shipping and returns. The Neil Barrett website can be easily navigated. There is beautiful use of black and white in the overall presentation and layout, the same minimal aesthetic you see from his collections. A section of the site is dedicated to celebrities and the use of celebrity case studies is executed and illustrated well. Men shy away from believing their style is derived from any form of celebrity and the website explains the attachment perfectly. Nonetheless, the Actors/Musician section is unnecessary and too obviously product placement lead. Although it is great to see products used in media it could be displayed in a more innovative, ‘less desperate’ method. Notebook, a part of the website that offers the customer an insight into the life of Neil Barrett has interesting and beautiful attributes but again is a little overwhelming leading you to get lost within too many links. All visual blogs should come together in a clean maneuverable page.
Brand Ambassadors There is a huge library of brand ambassadors of Neil Barrett. The choice of ambassadors is broad and varied to cover all genres and innevitably widen the press coverage of Neil Barrett. It would be beneficial to see the brand choose and stick to a more focused group of ambassadors. What is apparant is the age range is predominantly young but the real consumer is probably nearly double the age of that of the brand ambassador.
Justin Timberlake
Justin Timberlake
32
Musician/Actor
f: 28,560,000 t: 28,570,000 i: 2,700,000 total: 59,830,000
Jake Gyllenhaal
Collaboration
42
32
Jake Gyllenhaal
Actor
f: 1,110,000 t: n/a i: n/a total: 1,110,000
Neil Barrett has collaborated with Puma on a collection of sports shoes. In 2003, he was named Creative Director for a series of Puma technical collections, starting with Italy’s National Football Team, for whom he created both training and formal wear exclusively. Currently, collaboration is still a very unkown territory for Neil Barrett. The company should take advantage of the network of celebrity clientelle, detract from over-thetop product placement and create a unique collection or project.
Patrick Chukuemeka Rapper
f: 3,720,000 t: 1,560,000 i: 307,000 total: 5,587,000
25
Tinie Tempah
43
Store Layout
Magazine Features
Neil Barrett teamed up with Zaha Hadid Architects to design a cohesive display concept for a flagship store in Tokyo that could be easily rolled out to other locations as well, which include four shops in Seoul and one in Hong Kong. The result had to be as minimal and sleek as Barrett’s clothing lines. Hadid’s team came up with the idea of cutting the displays for all of the stores from a single block of material. The concept resulted in 16 bespoke display elements, which all fit together like pieces of a puzzle.
Neil Barrett features in a wide range of successfull renowned menswear magazines. Features include adverts, advertorials, photo-shoots, look books, product placement and styling.
Neil Barrett’s diffusion line titled ‘Black Barrett’ showcased in Hong Kong’s Central District. The choice of a dark and subdued interior ultimately places a strong emphasis on the product with contrast contributed by the the use of concrete flooring and wooden paneling.
Blog Features Neil Barrett features in a vast amount of blogs and online diaries. Blog posts include product wear testings, styled shoots and interviews. The brand is frequently seen on the following sites:
51 52
53
54
50
Fig.42 Justin Timberlake (2013), Fig.43 Jake Gyllenhaal (2011), Fig.44 Tinie Tempah (2013), Fig.45 Wonderland Magazine (2010), Fig.46 Hero Magazine (2013), Fig.47 VMan Magazine (2011), Fig.48 Neil Barrett Store (2013), Fig.49 Neil Barrett Store (2013), Fig.50 Black Barrett Store (2013), Fig.51 The Gentleman Blogger (2013), Fig.52 Style Sight (2013), Fig.53 Style.com (2013), Fig.54 ctf (2013)
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The Consumer
Annual Income of 100 consumers asked £25-75k Black. for LUX&NOAH
£75-100k
£100-150k
£150-200k 20
£200k
Consumer Research Black. is aimed at the contemporary gentleman who is between the ages of 34-42 but extends to the complete age range of 18-60. The customers will look for exceptional quality and traditional tailoring with a twist on masculinity, effectively receiving an extensively developed piece of wearable art. The consumer will become more specified and developed with time and research. It is important to know the customer inside and out, to know that the products have a purpose and a use. as the clothes will be made with an aim to be kept. Fabrics will be fine but durable, outerwear will be timeless and adaptable; breathable and interlined to make sure it has more than a season of use per year. In order to fill all of this critea and prospects one hundred consumers were asked a series of questions about the way they dress, lifestyle choices, brand loyalty and colour. The information will be used to direct Black. design to deliver the perfect product. For all orginal quotes and information, see the appendix.
Age Range
18 - 25
26 - 39
40 - 54
54 - 60
of 100 consumers asked
Henry Curtis Matthew Wenslock
Age: 22 Job: Dancer Salary: £24,000
Age: 59 Job: Retired Photographer Assets: £4mil+
Top by Sunspel, Jumper by Marc Jacobs, Cut off denim Jeans by ACNE, Socks by Sunspel, Boots by Dr Martens
Tshirt by Marc Jacobs, Jacket by Margaret Howell, Bespoke pants by unkown, Shoes by Grenson “How people dress directly mirrors their tastes, character etc.” 55
Adam Andrews Age: 38 Job: Menswear Design Manager Salary: £50,000+ Tshirt by Folk, Jacket by Spencer Hart, Trousers by Paul Smith, Shoes by Harrys of London
70%
said that “They use clothing to voice their personality.” This means that most consumers see their clothing as a means to transmit their identity to others. This reinforces the fact that Black. will need to create clothes which can convey meaning and values. Each product’s swing tag will have a product life story which will instil pride in the wearer and educate on its sustainable attributes.
58
Paul Kingley Age: 48 Job: Music Producer Salary: £90,000+ Shirt by Paul Smith, Jacket and Jeans by Levi’s , Shoes by Rokit
Juel Johansson Age: 45 Job: Fashion Design Creative Director Salary: £70,000
57
Shirt by D&G, Jumper by Jil Sander, Jacket by Jonathan Saunders, Pants by Hussein Chalayn for PUMA, Shoes by D&G
“I work in Music. I would say cothing is as important to me as is art- you can tell a lot about a musician by their clothes.”
Age: 32 Job: Lighting Designer Salary: £34,000+
56
“I wear a lot of black. I guess I like to think that mirrors my private and somewhat mysterious personality, where as if you get to know me I’m quite the opposite.”
simon PErry
Shirt by LUX&NOAH, Tshirt by COS, Jacket by DIOR, Coat by Rains, Jeans by DIOR, Shoes by Loake “ I believe my style is subconsciously derived through the musicians I admire.”
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Acne lux&noah
Neil Barrett lanvin Balenciaga Paul smith Spencer Hart rake
Dior
marc jacobs Jonathan Saunders Lou Dalton
opening Ceremony
Givenchy Burberry
Tom Ford
APC
Albam
Our Legacy
Norse
Ralph simon spurr Lauren
Stone Island
reiss
Zara
American Apparel
Cos Kooples
Favourite BRands of 100 consumers asked
Yuu Hayashi
Age: 40 Job: Business Owner (IT) Salary: £54,000
60%
Harrington Jacket by Fred Perry, Pants by Burberry, Shoes by Gucci
strength as it is not a loud colour that boasts and can be used to be masked. It resides quietly and contently behind the front men. It also supports the idea that black is unbranded in the same way that ‘the cool guy in the background’ is unbranded- the branding is internal, not external; loud or attention seeking.
“I’d pay more for the brand to take all ethical responsibility”
said that “they would prefer to be ‘The cool guy in the background rather than ‘the confident
frontman’”. This reinforces the idea that the colour black is a form of
Oliver Randolph Rich Hallam Age: 43 Job: Architect Salary: £60,000
Age: 28 Job: Gas Engineer Salary: £30,000 Tshirt by APC, Hoody by Kooples, Jacket By Topman, Pants by Our Legacy, Boots by All Saints
Shirt by Tom Ford, Tie by Vanners, Jumper by Albam, Jeans by Acne, Shoes by Paul Smith
“ I need to think about my budget primarily rather than brand. I will only buy brand pieces that I really like and consider it a product I will wear for a long time.”
“I believe that within my industry and as an architect, clothing and fashion should be used to sell the practices ethos more.” 59
John Worthington
90%
choice of fashion brands and products that they buy match the other segments of their lifestyle.” This tells us that men are interested in lifestyle
Age: 34 Job: Bar Area Manager Salary: £48,000+ Tshirt by ACNE, Jumper by FOLK, Coat by Oliver Spencer, Pants by YMC, Boots by H&M
said that “The
brands. Clothes reflect not just their comfort or style but their lives, insinuating that clothes have added value through symbolism. It will be this added value and symbolic meaning (of the brands values) that will be instilled in all Black. products.
“If there was an interesting story that was made clear enough through branding it would probably influence me to buy.”
Fig.55 Style Spot (2013), Fig.56 Style Spot (2013), Fig.57 Style Spot (2013), Fig.58 Style Spot (2013), Fig.59 Style Spot (2013)
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Black 10
8
White
10
Grey
8
8
6 6
Blue
4
10 8
Purple 4
6
2 2
0 2
Orange
4
4 2
2
2
6 8
Green
4
4 4
Camel
6
Yellow
6
Red
Favourite Colours of 100 consumers asked Average
18 - 25
26 - 39
40 - 54
54 - 60
Secondary Consumers There is a group of unintended consumers that will be attracted to Black. for some underlying traits. Sustainability and ethics surround the collection, something very vacant in the mass fashion industry. This will attract many customers that have been longing for clothing that has been responsibly made and that will pay the high price tag. Although Black. is not sportswear, there are definite characteristics around the products that will be highly innovative towards movement, weather and daily life’s activities that are usually found in the majority of sportswear’s outerwear. Customers may buy Black. garments because of its unique qualities to combat issues needed in sportswear.
Future Consumers Black. for LUX&NOAH plans for some of its future consumers to be dedicated followers to musicians, bands, producers and DJs. The xx stole the all black look and made it their own and five years on they have a huge following, not just for their music, but for their fashion. Their image plays an equal part in their success having filtered their creativity into their look, stage presence, visuals, film and artwork. Hopefully after having worked with specific musicians, a section of Black.’s consumers will be direct to music followers for it’s connection with the music industry, nothing to do with fashion.
Black. for LUX&NOAH
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Stats
Age: 32 Status: Married Children: None Job Title: Band Manager & Events Promoter Salary (£): 370-430,000 Basic: 60k (Band Managament) 50k (Events Promotion). Commision: 10% of the Bands earnings est at 250k. Bonuses: 10k-70k
House
Place of Birth: Manchester.
Techno
Residence: Angel, London, UK Residences outside the UK: Greenwich, New York. Santa Monica, California. Catalunya, Barcelona.
Education
Grunge Electronic
Westminster University Music Business Management / BAHons Degree / 1st Class.
The Manchester Grammar School GCSEs in 8 subjects incl Eng, Maths, Science with voluntary classes in Music and P.E. all awarded with A*
LUX & NOAH
Pringle of Scotland
Abbotsford Preparatory School
Acne Dries Van noten
Characteristics Adam shops mostly online using ‘Mr Porter’ and seeks the odd private proffesional styling advice to help achieve a strong unique identity. He uses his clothes to speak who he is and what he’s about. He enjoys that the way he dresses creates a lot of intimidation, mostly achieved by wearing lots of black and sunglasses. He is very brand loyal.
Neil Barrett LA
New York
Paris
Tokyo
His diet tries to follow a paleolithic path cutting out any unnecessary carbohydrates, grains and chemicals. This however is impossible if he is travelling on tour so careful consideration and planning is implemented to ensure he can eat healthily throughout otherwise he will gladly skip meals.
Stockholm
Adam is determined to keep up with any relevant football news so that he can join in with small talk with business clients but most of this is done by checking his smartphone on the morning commute. He tries to attend his private members gym four times a week working mostly on cardio and then finishes the week with a treatment in the gym’s spa. His competitiveness naturally comes out in team sports. Adam’s job takes him around the world and his position level allows him to travel business class, sometimes first class. Very odd occasions private jets are organized for his band and entourage. He is most busiest in spring and summer, also known in his industry as the festival season. Most of the time the festival promoters pay for the band and him to have luxury accommodation whilst having AAA access passes to anywhere on site.
Malaysia
mustard
As well as having property abroad that Adam and Takayo take short breaks to, he also holidays mostly in exclusive resorts in South East Asia. He rarely visits his home town, but instead spends some time in south west England visiting his father and enjoying the countryside.
Black
charcoal
burgundy
Old School Rap
New Wave
The Manchester College Music Industries Management / Foundation Degree / Distinction
Marc Jacobs
Dubstep
Family Lanvin
Wife: Name: Takayo Kumazawa Age: 28 Status: Married Children: None Job Title: Graphic Designer Salary: 36k plus benefits. £48k incl side projects Residence: Angel, London, UK Place of Birth: Azabu, Tokyo, Japan Father: Name: James Jackson Age: 65 Status: Divorced Job Title: World Reknowned Band Member Residence: Somerset, London & Stockholm, Sweden. Mother: Name: Poppy Jones Age: 62 Status: Re-married Job Title: Hugely successful model, now retired. Residence: Hampstead, London.
Consumer profile
Adam Jackson
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Market Positioning
Coats £2000 Jackets £700 sunglasses £520
Rucksack £650
Shirts £450 knits £420 jumpers £400 Pants £400 Shorts £250 t shirts £150 Wallett £140 tote bag £80 knitted hat £50
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Product Range
For product manufacturing costings please see appendix.
Sunglasses
Hair/Grooming by Murdock London
£350-£520
Biker Jacket £1200-£1500
Rain Mac
£500-£800
Leather Flatform Brogue
Shirt
Tshirt
£300-£450
£80-£150
Leather Flatform Brogue Trousers
£300-£400
rubber sole
Silk Shorts £200-£250
3D Printing Black. will create three
Hair/Grooming by Murdock London Raglan Jacket £700-£900
versions of sunglasses to sit alongside the collection and colour palette. Because they will be 3D printed they will have no waste material.
Sunglasses £350-£520
Jumper
Coat
£250--£400
£1500-£2000
Hat
£50-95
Rucksack £350-450
Wallet
£90-£140
Leather Flatform Brogue Trousers
£300-£400
Silk Trousers £350-£400
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Retail Black. for LUX&NOAH will primarily be stocked in independant menswear boutiques that specialise in luxury products. Focus is on UK stores but the collection will feature in a handful of stores in key cities around the world. A 50% deposit is asked of each store at the time of buying to cover manufacturing costs and then the following 50% will be recieved at the time of all products having been delievered. Careful research has led to the following stores being selected and approached.
UK Machine A Other Shop MKI Miyuko Zoku Dover Street Market The Shop at Bluebird Hub Browns Matches Library
London London Leeds London London London London London London
retail exclusivity The musicians/bands that Black. will collaborate with will offer their concert spectators a chance to buy the collection one week before the official release by entering a unique code from the concert ticket into the LUX&NOAH website e-shop. This will benefit both Black. but also the musician/band to create mutual publicity and exclusivity.
USA Opening Ceremony Dover Street Market The Foundary H.Lorenzo
New York New York LA LA
JAP
JAP Nid Mousses Arrows & Johns Dover Street Market
Shibuya Kobe Fukuoka Ginza
Department Stores Although Black. will not be stocked in department stores, it will however maintain a relationship with them. At the time of the collection release Harvey Nichols will host a launch event for one evening where press, industry proffesionals and socialites will attend to view, discuss and enjoy the clothing. Following on the collection will appear on a pop up rail in the Wonder Room of Selfridges for two weeks where customers can view and try on the collection. If they would like to purchase anything, they will be refered to our website. As LUX&NOAH holds a healthy relationship with Murdock London, the grooming salon in Libertys will exhibit a few pieces from the Black. collection. Information packs about the collection will be handed out to clients and to customers of Libertys.
KOR
Daily Projects
Korea
Fashion East MAN
Showrooms
1
Nutures emerging talent through early business and career stages
The collection will be apart of a series of showrooms that will showcase all the clothing to potential buyers. Most of the showrooms offer investment, sponsorship and events promotion. The company supplies such things as models, hair and make up and styling for any catwalk show. Below is a few examples of showrooms that Black. will be a part of in numerical order.
t: +44 (0) 207770 6150 a: Fashion East / MAN, The Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, London, E1 6QL e: applications@fashioneast.co.uk
2
NEWGEN
Showcases emerging talent with business support and showcasng opportunities. t: +44 (0) 20 7759 1965 a: Tessa Creagh-Barry, Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London, WC2R 1LA e: tessa.creagh-barry@britishfashioncouncil.com
3
London Collections: Men Helps emerging talent. t: +44 (0) 20 7759 1969 a: Laura Hinson, Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London, WC2R 1LA e: laura@britishfashioncouncil.com
4
LONDON ShowROOMS
Helps emerging British talent to promote themselves outside of the UK. t: +44 (0) 20 7759 1991 a: Barbara Grispini, Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London, WC2R 1LA e: barbara.grispini@britishfashioncouncil.com
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Online Retailing Black. will be primarily sold through LUX&NOAH. The LUX&NOAH website will launch an exclusive e-shop to sell the entire collection, handle all payments, shipping, returns and any online qeuries any customer may have.
main page advert Any online advertisement, PR, marketing, campaigns etc will all point to the LUX&NOAH website where the audience is greeted by a bold image directing towards the e-shop to buy Black. There is also a tab on the bottom bar in an inverted colour to catch draw attention.
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e-shop The e-shop will display all products and product categories to the left. There is a ‘total’ tab that will keep tally the cost of the chosen products and a basket symbol takes you through to the checkout page.
e-shop product view Here the customer can view each product on rotate and a zoom option offers a clear view of fabric and componants. Information is given on size, fit, garment care, delivery, returns and general help. There is a tab for the customer to share the product via social media and a tab to place the product on a ‘wish list’ to e-mail on.
Far Fetch Of all the external online retailers Black. will use Far Fetch will be the most favoured. The main page will show the collection in the biggest advert slot for 2 weeks over the launch period. Most of the collection will be sold here with excellent product viewing capabilities and descriptions.
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Mr Porter Mr Porter will show case a select amount of products at the higher end of the range. The coats, jackets and shirts will take centre stage but the accessories will not be sold here. There will be an advert on rotation with other brands for one month on the main page where information about the collection is provided along with the e-shop.
hi 62
Oki-Ni
Lo
63
Oki-ni will retail the lower end of our range and some of the accessories e.g. tote bags, wallets and knitted hats. Black. will have a rotational advert for the duration of one month on the main page. There will also be a feature on the Oki-ni blog which will publicise Black. whilst giving a further insight into the story of the collection.
Fig.60 LUX&NOAH (2013), Fig.61 Far Fetch (2013), Fig.62 Mr Porter (2013), Fig.63 Oki-ni (2013)
Black. for LUX&NOAH
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Branding / Marketing
Black. Black. for LUX&NOAH
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The Black label Black.’s biggest competitor Neil Barrett has a second line called ‘BlackBarrett’ which is an extension of his mainline but taking some minimal, streamline design concepts further with an accessible price point for everyone. The constant idea is that each season more and more staple pieces are created with the end aim to have a complete wardrobe. Another high-end brand, Ralph Lauren have an ongoing collection alongside all of the other side projects called Black Label. The range is aimed at the ages of 40-70 that offer traditional products with luxury fabrics all with a limited colour palette. Price points are hugely expensive but the accessories within the collection seem to justify the cost. A brand famed for its sportswear, Puma collaborates with high end designers to deliver a far more premium range to it’s consumers. Instead of focusing on the usual restraints that come along with sportswear Puma Black Label focuses on function, motion and grace. Most products to date fill the luxury basics category for everyday living. Previous collaborations include, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Neil Barrett and Mihara Yasuhiro. Henri Lloyd has had an ongoing collection called ‘Black Label and “today draws inspiration from the legendary collection from the mid 1990’s.”(Henri Lloyd, 2013). This capsule collection is very minute and seems a blur between the Henri Lloyd mainline where the black label offers reworked versions of the classic Forth Jacket and Bosun Knit. Looking at the lower end market, ASOS Black is a project inspired by premium men’s collections. ASOS Black’s future-focused design concentrates on clean cut craftsmanship, minimal colour palettes and beautiful silhouettes all at low price points making it a huge competitor to luxury brands. However, the website for the collection has not been updated and information about the products is poor.
The ‘Black Label’ has been interpreted in many avenues but always in the form of a novelty add-on package. Black. brings a collection that is all about the ‘Black Label’ bringing together it’s luxurious, exclusive and secretive connotations.
Primary Branding The most memorable logos are the most simple in appearance. The identities that Black. creates needs to be instantly recognisable, acting as a memorable identifier for the company it represents. All consumers will normally just take a quick glance at a logo, and an overly complex mark will make that opportunity redundant. As The xx discovered, one of their reasons for choosing their logo was the “strong graphic potential, which was later exploited on their brilliantly simple, die-cut album sleeve, and on mysterious but mentally indelible billboards and TV ads.” (Fantastic Man, 2012). The branding for Black. will be clean, focused, minimal and direct avoiding any unnecessary design features. The main aspect of all the logo’s will feature a simple black square making all Black. products recognizable from afar without the need for words or explanation.
Black.
Secondary Brandng
Black.for LUX&NOAH
Black. LUX&NOAH
Black. for LUX&NOAH
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Packaging In regards to masculine packaging and what is acceptable Black. is giving it’s customers the option of how they want to carry their purchases. Men’s rejection of the traditional tote shopping bag means the standard Black. shopping bag can be easily transformed with it’s fold indentations to become a backpack. The material for the bag will be a recycled paper that is tough but slightly flexible to support the indentations to fit along the spine. The bag will come with two straps made from organic black cotton and two snap buttons fixed into the card.
Box packaging made from recycled card.
Suit cover able to transform to be carried as a backpack.
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swing tag The swing tag holds a vital role within the whole project. From the primary research earlier in the report 95% of consumers asked said that ‘they would be attracted to a product if its ethical information was easily available and presented’ (See appendix). A swing tag is a chance to inform the shopper of all the positive attributes around the garment but also as a company to be honest and completely transparent. Information about the fabric, its origins and manufacture will be supplied in an easy fold out card with number referencing. This will be tied around the inside neck label left outside of the garment for easy visibility.
Black. for LUX&NOAH aims to create beautifully made, British Menswear with a positive approach to sustainability. Fabric sourcing and product manufacture are at the core of our concerns as a Brand; it is essential that we offer high quality products that are responsibly made, as we feel it is our duty to consider our impact on resources. Therefore we use British mills to reduce the length, complexity and in turn pollution, of our supply chain, and to ultimately localise the process of manufacture.
5 3
4 2 1
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This garment has been manufactured in England and is coated with a super hydrophobic coating. This means it’s shell repels any moisture or dirt minimizing the need for after care washing.
1 / Recycled polyester (made in the UK) with hydrophobic coating. 2 / Gold plated zip (made in the UK) 3 / Steel snap buttons (made in the UK) 4 / Organic silk pull cord. 5 / Recycled polyester (made in the UK) binding.
Fig.64 Norse Projects (2013)
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the Music Industry LUX&NOAH has worked with musicians in many areas which include: bespoke clothing, capsule collections, film executive producers, live-show visual projections, prints, album artwork, product placement, brand endorsement, style consultancy and creative direction. The main benefit to this work is the widespread press coverage received from the hard work of the musician’s management and PR teams later resulting in private collections sales. Past press features include The Guardian, NME, Kaltblut Magazine, HUH Magazine and Bullett Magazine. Past clients of the service LUX&NOAH offer to musicians have included: Gold Panda, Spector and Danny Killa County. Following this line of work Black. will work with musicians that share the same core beliefs to promote and strengthen the incredible relationship between the Fashion and Music industries. There are three ways in which Black. proposes to work with musicians firstly for them to become Brand Ambassadors for Black., secondly to collaborate and finally to utilise product placement.
There is a select group of individuals that have been carefully chosen to ensure their identity falls into the characteristics of the Black. consumer. Their celebrity status, personal style and dedicated following will publicise the collection around the globe. Any images belonging to the musicians label or management that contain Black. clothing will be credited and used in press.
Oliver Sims
24
Brand Ambassadors Theo Hutchcraft
27
Hurts
Lead Singer
f: 1,200,000 t: 100,000 i: 38,000 total: 1,338,000
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Black Atlass
The xx
19
Lead Singer
f: 2,700,000 t: 35,000 i: 61,000 total: 2,800,000
James Blake
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67
25
Musician
f: 510,000 t: 150,000 i: 22,000 total: 682,000
James Blake
Gold Panda
32
Derwin Dickers Music Producer
68
69
f: 160,000 t: 16,000 i: n/a total: 186,000
Alex Flemming Musician
f: 4,000 t: 1,200 i: 7,000 total: 12,200
designer / musician collabs Metro Boomin released ‘Maison Margiela’, his single with Future, co-produced by DJ Spinz.
Maison Margiela 70
Saint Laurent
y-3
71
Saint Laurent’s designer Hedi Slimane revisted the classics for his latest music project photographing BB King, Chuck Berry and Jerry Lee Lewis, shot in black and white. Adidas celebrated Y--3’s 10th anniversary with a compilation album in collaboration with Alex Prat aka Alex from Tokyo and fourteen other electronic music producers. The music brings together dance music icons and fresh new faces of underground house and disco.
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Fig.65 Theo Hutchcraft (2013), Fig.66 Oliver Sims (2013), Fig.67 Alex Flemming (2013), Fig.68 James Blake (2013), Fig.69 Derwin Dickers (2013), Fig.70 Maison Margiela (2013), Fig.71 Saint Laurent Music Project (2013), Fig.72 Y-3 Album (2013)
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Collaboration To mimic the success LUX&NOAH has achieved through collaborating, Black. will strive to do the same. This will allow the project to extend and network into alternative creative pathways which will produce extra publicity around the collection. Collaboration outcomes could be in the form of visuals, animations, music or film. Black. can be adapted to the research and design of a musicians work to make relevant to both whilst still promoting one another’s work in multiple creative mediums. Possible collaborators that would benefit from such things as visuals, live show projections or film would be electronic artists such as Digitalism, Jon Hopkins and Simian Mobile Disco.
Product PLacement Black. will work with appropriate stylists that work closely with musicians on photo shoots, music videos and press shoots to feature certain products with the aim to expand the consumer base and professional network. Stylists such as Nova Dando and Raphael Hirsch whith past clients such as Friendly Fires, Bloc Party, Klaxons, My Chemical Romance, These New Puritans, Hurts, Universal and SONY Music are perfect examples of who Black. for LUX&NOAH needs to showcase it’s products.
Showrooms As explained earlier in this report within the ‘Marketing Position’ as part of being a member of a showroom a lot of PR and publicity is taken care of. They have a team completely focused on handling all press matters and have a global reach in terms of advertising brands. Black. will utilise this relationship to maximise full exposure.
Social Media Black. will have exclusive use of all LUX&NOAH social media platforms for the purposes of advertising the collection. The LUX&NOAH existing audience for all social media currently stands at: Twitter: 1500 followers, Facebook: 1000 likes. Existing connections and supporters of the brand give consent to use their social media platforms to publicise Black. in agreement that it is reciprocated. Competitions, giveaways and general promotion will be givin out on the lead up to the collection release.
Sponsorship Black. will recieve help from CUTLER&GROSS, Loake and New Balance. All three currently have products that sit alongside the same ethos as Black. and they will be supplied if needed. Footwear and accessory products will be used to style all Black. products with. There is a mutual agreement between Black. and all three company’s to positively promote one another via social media.
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75
76
Existing magazine connections that have featured LUX&NOAH previously that have agreed to feature the Black. collection are: Client Magazine, Chasseur Magazine, The Urban Times, Bullett Magazine, Fault Magazine, MWB Magazine, Dash Magazine, MOD Magazine, Menswear Style Magazine, NME, Kaltblut Magazine, BDMOTP, HUH Magazine, The Guardian, Dummy Mag and TMRW Magazine Black. will carefully consider what publiciations it will benefit from featuring within and whether they have a mutual ethos and outlook. Possible future connections include: Monocle, Apartmento, Drapers, Wonderland Magazine, Flux Magazine, Hellion Magazine, Hypebeast, Metal Magazine, Dapper Dan, Vice, Wallpaper, iD, Love Magazine, Vman, WAD, 10men Magazine, Esquire, GQ and Dazed & Confused. Black. has a set budget to spend on advertisement and to the right are examples of feature prices taken from a mid range magazine, FAULT Magazine. There is a reduced rate card that FAULT offer LUX&NOAH which has been extended for the use of Black. For all original magazine rate cards, see appendix.
Publications
Fault Magazine Rate Card Top Leader Board Banner viewable on every page.
£1,000/2 months
appears in every blog post perfect for targeted promotion.
£400/month
a promotional banner per however many picture rotations, fully linked.
£300/month
single post on a website post.
£300/12 months
In-post Banner
Front Page Rotation Banner
Single Post FAULT Magazine Rate Card Outside Back Cover Inside Front Cover Inside Back Cover First Double Page Spread Eight-Page Campaign Six-Page Campaign Four-Page Campaign Barn Door Advertorial per Page
Online £10,000 £6,000 £5,000 £7,000 £6,000 £5,000 £4,000 £10,000 £2,000
FAULT Magazine Reduced Rate Card for L&N
Further Exposure Opportunities Other exposure opportunities will include: Sponsored/fully-branded shoots Soft product placement Social Media mentions New media collaborations Event collaborations
Fig.74 Cutler and Gross (2013), Fig.75 Loake (2013), Fig.76 New Balance (2013)
Black. for LUX&NOAH
Digital: Promotional feature on FAULT website
£180
Print: Quarter page feature Half page feature Full page feature Double page spread
£150 £250 £600 £1000
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Brand Focus
Ba r b i ca n e Collect iv
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A nima l
K im bi e
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Cr ysta l
Th e x x
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Inspiration Sources of inspiration for the Black. collection derive mostly from music, architecture and fashion in illustrated in the form of a sound visualiser.
Black. for LUX&NOAH
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Black. for LUX&NOAH
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Colour Palette The colour palette was created as a result of all the collated visual research within the project so far. The palette consits of 80% black and extremely dark tones, 15% of champagne gold and 5% of deep berry reds.
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‘It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one more responsive to change.’ Charles Darwin
Sustainability Black. has a framework for balance in design which requires specific considerations. There are six key areas: Beyond the Product, Compassion, Consumption, Production & Processes, Materials & Their Applications, Design.
Beyond Product Currently we “consume in a day what it has taken the planet 10,000 days to produce” (CSF, 2009). Apparantly “there is much talk about efficiences and technological fixes to improve the utilization, performance, and energy consumption of our current ways of working and whilst there is some merit in these initiatives, simply streaming, restricting and substituting materials cannot prevent catastrophe, irreversible damage to our ecosystem.” (Williamson and Stevens 2011). It is then highly important for materials, processes and products to continually transform to adapt to the ever-evolving world. Fashion is known for its ability to adjust to these necessities but always in a reactive manner. Black. will be pro active to ensure all aspects of a product can be timeless, functional and desirable. Black. will be forward thinking in understanding what the end realisation is and how to achieve it with ethical reasoning throughout, without sacrificing the desirability of the product. There needs to be consideration as to not restrict its creative outlet to just fashion and be open-minded to other skill sets that can help attain the result.
Empathy Everyone has opinions and we all want to make a difference, but as a reaction to what and who is around us. It is difficult to distance ourselves from what is happening to our present personal lives. Black. will utilise the advancements in communication technology to ensure we are pro active in delivering the needs of everyone around the globe as it’s important to remember “we are each members of a bigger community and society and the gigantic ecological challenges that we now face will impact on us all.” (Williams and Stevenson, 2011). The current fashion industry obsessed with low price, fast changing, high volume products have detached the communication between the designer and manufacturer. Black. tackles this problem and creates an in depth time line plan for all products accessible to all key areas of the supply chain to ensure communication is relayed constantly the end aim to create a timeless and functional piece.
Consumption It is important to consider each products ongoing aesthetic and the message from designer to wearer. The way in which a piece interacts and moves with the body will dictate how the wearer moulds and personalises it. With this knowledge Black. can pre-plan the many possibilities of how a product can be physically functional and please a vast amount of needs. It is important for the product range to be multi-functional but also to have product interconnectivity, a way in which the clothes can live with each other. Attention to detail and strict craftsmanship will decrease the unnecessary amount of components and labour needed to create current fast fashion. “By thinking about the life or lives of your work, you are reflecting on its cultural, social and ecological impacts, creating opportunities for innovation and difference.” (Williamson and Stevenson, 2011). With this understanding, extensive research is at the heart of Black. to guarantee a long life span of each piece. Reflection of the multiple lives of a piece has been the focus of many individuals work and even though there are already some incredible conceptual business-ready models for design and production, there resides enormous opportunities for more work in this area. The research that Black. will undertake will fully interrogate the product range lifecycle and guarantee that all products can be repaired a service offered to the customer to last a lifetime as a promise to the wearer. To care for the wearer after the sale will gain much more business support, long-term profitability and high aspirations for the brand.
Production & Processes We currently create eighty billion garments a year around the world and with the worlds resources plummeting this can not be a sustainable process. The depressing, hard-worked environments for persons within the industry shared with the low fulfillment of the fast fashion consumer has resulted in nothing more than a quick fix enjoyment. It is imperitive to analyse and fully understand the journey each product will undertake to further contribute to the longevity of a Black. product. Black. tackles this by supplying a clear and transparent business model containing clear ethical instructions accessible to all areas of the production team which will in return have a much slower, research led, product focused manufacturing process. to be made about the amount of outsourcing and chemicals that are included in the whole product range to attain having a sustainable story whilst not drastically detouring from the idealisation of remaining sustainably British.
Materials & Their Applications “If the design is at one with the material, it will just last and last.” (Margaret Howell, 2011)
Serious deliberation of chosen fabrics and components used within Black. products will be vital to deliver the desired form, function and finish of the garment. Experimentation with materials will commence early in order to carry out the appropriate research but also to see how they influence the designs. Black. will attempt to use British sustainable materials but in some cases in doing so where compromise is asking to be made to the desirability of its products exceptions will be made to outsource within the proximity of Europe. Nonetheless, the alternative imported materials will always have sustainable attributes for example, a hydrophobic chemical will be applied to some Black. product’s fabrics on the outer shell to cut down on the amount of washing. This in return cuts the huge pollution contributed after the sale of a product through its wash aftercare. After all it is vital to select materials according to their application. On the other hand serious thought has to be made about the amount of outsourcing and chemicals that are included in the whole product range to attain having a sustainable story whilst not drastically detouring from the idealisation of remaining sustainably British. Hydrophobic Chemical Fabric
design Successful sustainable design is a result of the opportunities given from the environment’s challenges. The creative process that Black. undertakes implements new ways of designing and acts as an example to existing brands of how achievable sustainable design is. Each product will be well considered in all areas of good design from aesthetics, materials and commerciality to desirability, feasibility and viability. This strict way of working along side the research undertaken into market positioning and consumerism will make for a purposeful and huge-impacting unique addition to the global luxury menswear market. “Designers use creative vision to imagine the products and experiences that have the potential to guide how we conceive, make, offer, consume and reconfigure our collections of clothes.” (Williams and Stevenson, 2011). Knowing this, it is then good that the transparent framework constructed for the foundations of design that Black. will follow will determine each product’s behaviour and performance.
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Material Overview
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Fabrics
Discovery Knitting Point North
Vanners Silk Weavers, Sudbury, England weaving silk since 1740. As well as state-of-the-art jacquard and dobby weaving, Vanners has Comp: 100% Pure Silk its own yarn dyeing & Colour: Black fabric finishing Price: £45/m Lead time: 1 weeks 100% pure silk woven and manufactured in Sudbury, England.
Comp: 94% Modal 6& elastane Code: GD439 Single Jersey Colour: Black Width: 155cm Weight 155g/m2 Price: £9.95/m Minimum: 65m
“Discovery Knitting manufactures and finishes a range of sustainable textiles in the UK, combining fibres such as certified organic cotton and recycled polyester. Discovery constantly develop their product offer to address biodiversity, water, waste and energy.”(Sustainable Angle 2013 Lenzing Modal is produced in a closed loop production system in Austria, made with sustainably cultivated woods grown on land unsuitable for food production. The trees need no artificial irrigation.
alternative leathers
Trading internationally in finished skins for the leather industry, Walter Reginald also work with tanneries across the world to supply a large range of natural and finished hides for: Interiors, Upholstery, Garments, Accessories, Handbags, Footwear and Costumes. Foiled italian lamb skin.
Point North produce a range of sports casual fabrics using innovative blens of recycled polyester, modal and organic cotton.
Recycled PET bottles and retrieved polyester fibres are the raw materials used for this recycled polyster, Oeko-Tex 100 certification ensures the minimization of harmful substances used during production and GRS asses environmental processing impact. Stephen Walters produce seasonal collections and bespoke fabrics for ready-to-wear, couture and bridal designers. They create four seasonal collections each year for neckwear fabrics, in repp and jacquard weaves, using silk, linen, cotton, cashmere and wool weft yarns. SW also create bespoke designs and colourways for many of our clients. Facing fabrics and braids for formal tailoring are held in stock at all times. 100% pure wool woven and manufactured in Sudbury, England.
Wool / Wool Blends
Comp: 100% British Wool Colour: Black Price: £35/m Lead time: 1 weeks
Stephen Walters
Comp: 100 recycled polyester Code: WF7A0802 Recycled Yarn Pique Colour: Black Width 61” Weight: 245g/yd
Comp: 95% Lamb Leather, 5% foil coating Colour: Champagne Finish: Foil coating Price: £9.50 psft Lead time: 1 weeks
Walter Reginald
Performance Fabrics
Cotton Jersey
Silk / Silk Blends / Silk Crepe
Vanners
Chosen fabrics are illustrated below. Each one carefully chosen for it’s specific capabilities that will help the Black. collection fuse together harmoniously. Whether the fabric is organic, recyclable or ethically traced, there is an end goal for it to be used sustainably. For the full fabric research see the appenidx.
Polopique
Poplin
“Salmon swims wild in the North Atlantic Ocean and enters Icelandic rivers to breed. It is not included in the Washington Convention, nor on the CITES list. All fish skins tanned by Atlantic Leather are waste products from the food industry and when tanning the skins no whale oil or other celoceans are used. All salmon used is from robust fish stock around Iceland.” (Sustainable Angle)
Fish Leather
Comp: Salmon Code: 912LS Finish: Synthetic colouring REACH standard Av Size: 0.8sqft Av thickness: 0.6mm Av width: 10-14cm Av length: 60cm Price: 8euro
Atlantic Leathers
“Atlantic Leather is an Icelandic tannery, specialized in production of exotice fish leathers from Atlantic Salmon, Perch, Wolfish and Cod. It is the only company in the world that makes Wolfish leather, and washable Salmon Leather. Iceland’s abundant renewable resources provide Atlantic Leather with hot water from geothermal sources and hydroelectric power. Atlantic Leather is a member of BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd and is REACH certified.” (Sustainable Angle, 2013)
“Teviz Polopique specializes in high quality organic cotton shirtings, lightweight organic denims and flannel. Teviz has been producing its own renewable energy since 1937. All materials are made in Portugal using CUC organic yarns.” (Sustainable Angle, 2013) Comp: 50% organic cotton 50% modal Code: 4428 Width 150cm Weight 180g/m2 Minimum: 500m
“Only the finest certified organic extra long staple PIMA cotton is used. The majority of water used in this cotton comes from rain water resevoirs. All organics fabrics meet GOTS certification of every step of the supply chain.” (Sustainable Angle, 2013)
Dash & Miller
“Natureally Leather are the only company making leather exclusively from certifies British Organic cattle. Every piece of leather we make can be traced back to its origin. The leathers are 100% chrome-free vegetable tanned, naturally finished and dyed. The surface of Natureally Organic Leather is completely natural, without extra pigment finishing or grain correction.” (Sustainable Angle, 2013) “All Natureally hides are a by product of the food industry, are certified Organic by the UK Soil Association and can be traced back to the very animal they came from. The dyes are synthetic and environmentally friendly. The almondKnits coloured leather is undyed.” (Sustainable Angle, 2013)
Comp: 50% organic cotton 50% organic wool Code: 4428 Width 150cm Weight 180g/m2 Price: £30/m
Natureally
Leather
Comp: 100 organic british leather Colour: Conker, Hazel, Sweet Chestnut, Ebony, Almond Finish: Vegetable tanned Price: £14.60 psft Lead time: 6 weeks
Dash and Miller was formed in 2009 when designers Juliet Bailey and Franki Brewer decided to combine their in-depth knowledge of hand-weaving and industrial experience in a unique approach to textile design. Designed and woven in England.
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PRoduct Characteristics There is some specific techniques and characteristics that exist from competitor products that will transcend into Black. where they will be manipulated to create innovative garments. Contrasting textures, paneling and experimental textures are essential and working with a strict minimal colour palette allows these attributes to blend together easily.
Neil Barrett / Harrods
Quilting
B-Side / Harvey Nichols Neil Barrett / Harvey Nichols
PAneling / Contrast Fabric
Oliver Spencer / Libertys
Texture
Marc Jacobs / Libertys
Lou Dalton / Libertys
Neil Barrett / Selfridges
Acne / Harrods
Jonathan Saunders / Libertys
extended rib
Internal POcket
Multiple zips
B-Side / Harvey Nichols
Acne / Harrods
Oversized Coats
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Supply Chain Critical Path External
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- Lockstitch machine - 3 & 4 Thread Overlocker - Steam Iron Studio Space and sampling facilities - Pattern cutting equipment - Studio table - Work bench a: LUX&NOAH Studio, Unit 27, 22 Tidemill - Toiling fabric Way, Deptford, London, SE8 4BF - Thread t: n/a - Manequin w: www.luxandnoah.com - Shears e: info@luxandnoah.com - Paper
LUX&NOAH Studio
Construction Masachuka
All Black. design, pattern cutting, pattern grading and some sampling will be done at LUX&NOAH’s studio.
Design
Construction of the Black. collection will primarily be done at small scall cut, make, trim companies based around London and its suburbs. If large orders come in then there is a few chosen factories that fit with our ethos based in the UK. Below is the selected factories in numerical order.
1
Pattern Cutting, Sampling and small scale CMT a: Studio 22, Wimbledon Art Studios, London t: +44 (0) 7440154359 w: www.masachuka.com e: info@masachuka.com
Apollo Star
Ella London
3
Productions, Sample Making, Various Stitching, Cutting, Toiling, Button Attching, Hand Sewing, Pressing & finishing,
4
a: Unit 25, 3rd Floor, 1-13 Adler St, London, E1 1EG t: +44 (0)207 729 1366 w: www.ellalondon.co.uk e: ellalondon@hotmail.com
Measurement, Grading, Toiles, Pattern Making, Fitting, Sample Making, Alterations, CMT, Delivery of Finished Articles a: 12 Bishops Way, Bethnal Green, Tower Hamlets, London, E2 69HB t: +44 (0)208 9815 500 w: www.fashionsampleproduction.co.uk e: lucy@fashionsampleproduction.co.uk
East End Manufacturing
5
Medium to large scale production a: 15 Solebay St, Mile End, London, E1 4PN t: n/a w: www.eastendmanufacturing.com e: sales@eastendmanufacturing.com
East End Manufacturing focuses on jersey clothing and also cotton, with options for sampling and smaller runs (no less than 100 pieces per style), including Menswear, T-shirts, Womenswear and Childrenswear. They aim to turn around orders quickly with a high level of quality control. A detailed quote for the manufacturing service (CMT - cut, make and trim) will be supplied and the machinists, cutters and pressers each have many years experience to do the job well with a fast turnaround time. EEM also believe in ethical working conditions.
ls
Components La b e
All accessory components that make a Black. product aim to be UK sourced. In order to not detract from the high quality aesthetics of each product some components may need to be sourced further into Europe. Nonetheless they will still be ethically sourced. Below are a list of component makers and suppliers that have been specifically chosen for the collection.
Franklins Cloth Badges, Garment Labels, Embroidery a: 54 Scarva Road, Banbridge, County Down, Northern Ireland, BT32 3AU t: 028 406 22230 w: www.franklins.co.uk e: n/a
Grove Pattern Buttons Wholesale & retail button makers a: Grove Pattern Buttons, Grove Works, 28 Camden Drive, Birmingham, B1 3LR t: 0121 213 6284 w: www.hornbuttons.co.uk e: enquiries@hornbuttons.co.uk
Durable Fasteners Jeans Buttos, Rivets, Press Studs, Eyelets, Popper Tape Finishes a: Durable Fasteners Ltd, 430 Kingsland Road, London, E8 4AA t: +44 (0)20 7254 6713 w: www.durablefasteners.co.uk e: sales@durablefasteners.co.uk
Zipex Plastic and metallic zippers, sliders and custom pullers. a: Zipex UK ltd, Abbey Gate House, Unit 3, 15 Abbey Gate, Leicster, LE4 0AA t: 0116 262 4988 w: www.zipex.co.uk e: sales@zipex.co.uk
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Slikzips Metal, nylon and plastic zippers, pullers. a: 4th Floor, Hamilton House, Mabledon Place, London, WC1H 9BB t: +44 (0)20 7544 8666 w: www.slikzips.com e: info@slikzips.com
Coats Zips, Luxury Zips, Pullers, Luxury Pullers, Trims, Embroidery, a: 1 The Square, Stockley Park, Uxbridge, UB11 1TD t: +44 (0)20 8210 5000 w: www.coatsindustrial.com e: communications@coats.com
Specialist Services Throughout the Black. collection some very advanced specialist services will be used to ensure that the project is innovative towards design and construction. The following services and products will be used...
Fashion Digital Studio Digital fabric printers London College of Fashion, Digital Print Bureau, 20 John Princes Street, London, W1G 0BJ t: +44 (0) 207 514 2962 w: www.fashiondigitalstudio.com e: n.munyama@fashion.arts.ac.uk
Cameron Gilmarten Digital textile printers offering tailor-made fabric prototyping for the fashion and textiles industry. a: J. A. Gilmartin Ltd, J301, Tower Bridge Business Complex, 100 Clements Rd, London, SE16 4DG t: 02072378666 w: www.camerongilmartin.co.uk e: info@jagilmartin.co.uk, info@camerongillmartin.co.uk
3D Printing 3D printing and prototyping
Tape
s
t: +44 (0)20 7514 2294 w: www.fashiondigitalstudio.com e: p.hill@fashion.arts.ac.uk
Ardmel-Group Tape sealing machines, ultrasonic joining & cutting, Laser Cutting, Slitting & Strip cutting machine, Bonding Presses, Seam Tapes & Adhesives. a: Ardmel Group Ltd, Nasmyth Road, Southfield Ind Estate, Glenrothes, Fife, KY6 2SD t: +44 (0)15 9277 1241 w: www.ardmel-group.co.uk e: sales@ardmel-group.co.uk
NeverWet Hydrophobic Chemial a: n/a t: 866.383.7066 w: www.neverwet.com e: n/a
London Pleaters Fabric pleaters a: 186 Bridport Rd, London N18 1SJ t: +44 (0) 20 8803 0607 w: www.londonpleaters.co.uk e: info@londonpleaters.co.uk
Climent Pleating Fabric pleaters a: F.Ciment (Pleating) Ltd, 18a station close, Potters Bar, Herts, EN6 1TL t: +44 (0) 1707 661 311 w: www.climentpleating.co.uk e: info@climentpleating.co.uk
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“It's abnormal to know everything about anyone. In the span of human history, privacy is the norm.”
Oliver Sim, The xx
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Evaluation
The aim of this report was to create a justified and well-researched framework for a luxury sustainable menswear collection to be successfully built upon. There are three consistent themes running throughout the report that Black. explores vital to set itself apart from the existing competition; it’s relationship to music, sustainability and UK manufacturing. Research has been made into the existing relationship between Fashion and Music and how it has been manipulated for the success of past designers. The outcome conveyed an opportunity for Black. to collaborate with electronic artists on such mediums as live-show projected visuals, film and album artwork. The body of this work will take minimal transformation to be relevant to the musician and the rewards will be huge for Black. in terms of world-wide publicity. Technology innovation has been explored to illustrate how it can be incorporated into clothing for sustainable end results. The conclusion suggests using hydrophobic chemicals in select products to combat garment after-care pollution. There was an argument as to how ethical this chemical is to use in regards to skin contamination and personal health but serious deliberation ended with the chemical only being used to the external shell of all Black. outerwear. Black. was built on the foundations of supplying a collection fully manufactured within the UK. Relevant investigation was pursued and the results as to how successful this could be were unbelievably positive. The research communicated that there exists a large amount of garment manufacturing factories around the UK but most interestingly London and accepting small or large-scale production orders. Unfortunately the report unravelled that there is a need for outsourcing some materials and components from outside of the UK but still within Europe to remain fully sustainable. This report has justified that there is definite room within the luxury menswear fashion market for Black. for LUX&NOAH. It has unique characteristics and huge potential for attracting more than just the stereotypical high-end fashion consumer base. As well as the positive business projections it is a project that is ethically responsible benefiting many areas of the economy and society’s wellbeing.
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Bibliography
Online Documents Acne. (2013) About Acne Studios. At: shop.acnestudios.com/about/history (Accessed on 02.11.2013) Barrett, Neil. (2013) About Neil Barrett. At: www.neilbarrett.com/it/about (Accessed on 02.11.2013) CSF. (2009) Tactics for Change, Centre for Sustainable Fashion Vol 3.0 2009. At: www.sustainable-fashion.com (Accessed on 12.11.2013) Darwin, Charles. (2013) Charles Darwin Quotes. At: www.biographyonline.net/scientists/darwin-quotes (Accessed on 27.11.2013) Henri Lloyd. (2013) About Henri Lloyd Black Label. At: www.henrilloyd.com/heritage/timeline (Accessed on 18.11.2013) Opening Ceremony. (2013) About Opening Ceremony. At: www.openingceremony.us/about/oc (Accessed on 03.11.2013) Saunders, Jonathan. (2013) Jonathan Saunders Biography. At: www.jonathan-saunders.com/biography (Accessed on 02.11.2013) Williamson, Dylis. Stevenson, Nina. (2011) Consumption. At: www.sustainable-fashion.com/resources/sustainability-inaction/consumption (Accessed on 12.11.2013) Williamson, Dylis. Stevenson, Nina. (2011) Design. At: www.sustainablefashion.com/resources/sustainability-in-action/design (Accessed on 12.11.2013) Williamson, Dylis. Stevenson, Nina. (2011) Empathy. At: www.sustainable-fashion.com/resources/sustainability-in-action/empathy (Accessed on 12.11.2013) Williamson, Dylis. Stevenson, Nina. (2011) The Eco-system. At: www.sustainable-fashion.com/resources/sustainability-inaction/beyond-product (Accessed on 12.11.2013) Yamamoto, Yohji. (20). Yohji Yamamoto on the colour black .At: www.goodreads.com/quotes/440569-black-is-modest-and-arrogantat-the-same-time-black (Accessed on 22.11.2013)
Interviews Howell, Margaret. (2011) [Interviewed by Alice Fisher, The Observer, 29th May 2011] Sim, Oliver (2012) [Interviewed by Fantastic Man Autumn Winter 2012]
Magazines Fantastic Man. (2012) Mr. Oliver Sim. In: Fantastic Man 2012 Autumn Winter.
Books Doyle, Patrick. (2013) Buttoned Up. Fantastic Man. Penguin. Wild, Lorraine. (2013) The Designer Says. New York. Princeton Architectural Press.
Expos The Sustainable Angle (2013) Sustainable Fabric Library. The Sustainable Angle, London.
Images & websites For all image sources and useful websites please see the appendix.
Word Count: 4,342. Black. for LUX&NOAH
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