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California voters have chance to transform rent policy Prop. 10 would repeal law limiting governments’ ability to slow increases BY PHILLIP MOLNAR San Diego is not exactly a paradise for renters. Nearly six in 10 San Diegans pay one-third or more of their income in rent, making the area the fourthmost cost-burdened out of 500 metro areas. Average asking rent here is $1,784 a month, a 25 percent increase from just four years ago. Against this backdrop, Californians are voting Nov. 6 on Proposition 10, an effort to repeal a 1995 law that limits county and city governments’ ability to slow rent hikes. There is also a local effort to bring rent control to National City, but the statewide vote could have much wider implications for San Diego County. Most economists argue that rent control will lead to a reduction in the quality and quantity of housing available. Yet frustration over rising rents seems to be boiling over in California and both sides promote research that they say proves their point. The Union-Tribune is answering the most common questions about Prop. 10 and what it means. SEE PROP. 10 • A17

KEITH SRAKOCIC AP

People embrace along the street in the Squirrel Hill neighborhood of Pittsburgh where a shooter opened fire during services at the Tree of Life Congregation on Saturday, killing 11 people and wounding several others, including police officers.

FEDERAL HATE CRIME CHARGES AMONG 29 COUNTS FILED BY CAMPBELL ROBERTSON, CHRISTOPHER MELE & SABRINA TAVERNISE

Rent control measure divides tenants, landlords in National City

PITTSBURGH

Armed with an AR-15-style rifle and at least three handguns, a man shouting anti-Semitic slurs opened fire inside a crowded Pittsburgh synagogue Saturday morning, killing at least 11 congregants and wounding four police officers and two others, authorities said. In a rampage described as among the deadliest against the Jewish community in the United States, the assailant stormed into the Tree of Life Congregation, where worshippers had gathered

BY DAVID HERNANDEZ Ignacio Hernandez has a choice to make: Transfer to UC Berkeley in the spring to continue his education or stay in National City and work to help his mother pay rent. The 22-year-old and his mother share a two-bedroom apartment with his sister, her husband and their two children. In the past year, he said, their rent increased $200, to about $1,300. Hernandez hopes National City voters approve Measure W in November to establish rent control in a city where 70 percent of residents are renters. But Mitch Thompson, who owns an eight-unit apartment complex in the northern outskirts of the city, sees the citizens-driven initiative as a detriment to his business model. Measure W would cap annual rent increases at 5 percent and allow evictions sparingly. Thompson, 64, said he raises rent on a case-by-case basis, opting to keep rent $200 below market rate for some tenants. If he needs to raise rent on a unit, he can at any time. But if Measure W passes and he has to contend with rent caps, Thompson says he will have to SEE CITY • A18

SOCIAL MEDIA POSTS FULL OF HATE

in separate rooms to celebrate Bowers, 46, was wounded by their faith, and shot indiscrimigunfire, although authorities said nately into the crowd, shatit was unclear whether tering what had otherwise those wounds were self-inbeen a peaceful morning. flicted or whether police The assailant, identihad shot him. He was in fied by law enforcement ofstable condition Saturday ficials as Robert D. Bowers, at the University of Pittsfired for several minutes burgh Medical Center. and was leaving the synaBowers, who had no gogue when officers, Robert D. criminal history, was dressed in tactical gear and Bowers charged late Saturday with armed with rifles, met him 29 federal counts, including at the door. According to police, 11 counts of using a firearm to comBowers exchanged gunfire with of- mit murder, and hate crimes and ficers before retreating back inside weapons offenses. It wasn’t imand barricading himself inside a mediately known if Bowers has an third-floor room. He eventually attorney to speak on his behalf. surrendered. “Please know that justice in

A 8 • Account in suspect’s name filled with anti-Semitic rants. this case will be swift and it will be severe,” Scott Brady, the chief federal prosecutor in western Pennsylvania, said at a news conference, characterizing the slaughter as a “terrible and unspeakable act of hate.” Though a bris, a ceremony to mark a child’s birth, was among the ceremonies taking place Saturday, no children were among the casualties, law enforcement offiSEE SHOOTING • A8

PANDA POPULATION STABLE, WITH ZOO’S HAND Research in San Diego on breeding and parenting helped rescue species from danger of extinction BY BRADLEY J. FIKES

HAYNE PALMOUR IV U-T

Xiao Liwu was born in 2012 at the San Diego Zoo as the youngest of six to come from prolific matriarch Bai Yun.

China has extended its groundbreaking loan of giant pandas to the San Diego Zoo until next year. But the goals of the program are changing, because of a development almost unthinkable when the conservation project began in 1996. Partly due to the zoo’s research, breeding programs worldwide have produced a panda population boom. At the San Diego Zoo alone, six panda progeny have emerged from prolific matriarch Bai Yun, 27. Five of them were fathered by Gao Gao, about 28. One of their offspring, Xiao Liwu, 6, also lives at the zoo. In short, pandas no longer face

the near-term danger of extinction. Talk has shifted to building on the program’s success to bring more long-term stability to the future of these enigmatic, dichromatic bears, produced by nature but appearing to be designed by Disney. When the program began in 1996, the wild population was estimated at fewer than 1,000. As of the latest census, in 2014, that population had soared to 1,864, and by some estimates even higher. Reflecting these improved prospects, pandas were upgraded last year from an endangered species to a vulnerable one. Most importantly, China has devoted considerable attention to SEE PANDAS • A21

FOOTBALL FLEET

NEWSOM EYES RETURN TO SPOTLIGHT AS GOV. Lieutenant governor, a Democrat, has focused campaign on opposition to Trump BY JONATHAN J. COOPER

Newsom says he’s not considering that possibility. Yet few believe him, he acknowledges, not even his SACRAMENTO For eight years, Democrat Gav- friends. They’ve seen him as presidential timber since he was a high in Newsom bided his time as California’s lieutenant governor, a job school student wearing a suit and tie to school. with little responsibility With perfect hair, and little interest to him. He sparkling teeth, deep-pockwas so eager to start the eted supporters and a menext phase of his political teoric rise to national promlife that within three inence, Newsom always months of winning a second seems headed for someterm in 2014 he announced thing bigger. Right now, he his candidacy for governor. Now he’s a heavy favorite Gavin insists, that’s limited to beto defeat Republican John Newsom ing governor of the nation’s Cox in November and bemost populous state. come California’s top elected offi“I have no interest in anything cial. And already questions are to do with any of that,” the former coming about what many believe is San Francisco mayor said of a run his ultimate goal: president. for president. “I mean, I don’t know

how else to say it. It’s just anathema to anything I’m interested in in life.” Newsom relishes the idea of replacing Trump administration foil Jerry Brown as governor and being the point for California’s resistance to the president. Left unsaid is that perch leaves him perfectly situated to create a more appealing national profile for Democrats should he decide the White House no longer is anathema. Riding in the back of his campaign bus through the Central Valley recently, Newsom went over his life story and pushed back on the SEE NEWSOM • A7

HOWARD LIPIN U-T

Midshipman Jarett Blackburn screams his support for Navy during their game Saturday against Notre Dame at SDCCU Stadium. Notre Dame won 44-22. Story, D1

A 6 • How did Gavin Newsom make his fortune?

T R AV E L

ALLURING POLYNESIA Surf, sail and swim with whales in the exotic and tropical islands of French Polynesia. E10

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ALONE IN PARADISE

HEARTS & MINDS Play tells stories of female U.S. soldiers who engage with Afghan women during wartime E3

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE INSIDE ARTS+CULTURE

French Polynesia is known as the ultimate honeymoon destination, but a writer finds adventures there while flying solo E10

Who is back in town? See page E6-E7

SECTION E

SUNDAY • OCTOBER 28, 2018

STEWART VOLLAND

Joan Baez reflects on her ‘final’ tour, her storied career, and why she no longer resents Bob Dylan BY GEORGE VARGA

oan Baez is animatedly discussing her storied musical career and ongoing “Fare Thee Well” tour when, suddenly, she starts to sound as if she is very, very drunk. ■ “Hhh mmssrrrr chhnn gggh!” sings the legendary folk-music artist and social activist. “Llll vvrrrbbbyyy bllll!” ■ These

spellings may not be completely precise, but they are reasonable approximations of the nonwords that the very sober Baez clearly articulates during a phone interview from her Bay Area home in the Woodside neighborhood of Menlo Park. She is doing so to demonstrate the benefits of warming up for her concerts by — as she puts it — “singing a song without vowels.” ■ “Wwrrnntt!” Baez adds for good measure, before dissolving in laughter. ■ “This is why I don’t want a dressing room next to anyone,” she says, laughing again. “Although, now, I don’t care!” ■ It

isn’t an uncharacteristic bout of apathy that causes Baez — a 2017 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee — to say she doesn’t care if she sounds SEE BAEZ • E4

inebriated during her pre-concert warmups.

Joan Baez “Fare Thee Well” tour 2018

When: 7:30 p.m. Tuesday Where: Humphreys Concerts by the Bay, 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island Tickets: Sold out Phone: (800) 745-3000 Online: ticketmaster.com

JAN 15–20 • CIVIC THEATRE • BROADWAYSD.COM

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SUNDAY • OCTOBER 28, 2018

Island hopping in French Polynesia Water lover surfed, sailed and swam with the whales on a solo adventure trip

BY MARLISE KAST-MYERS

rench Polynesia sounded exotic, tropical and romantic — all necessary ingredients for an idyllic honeymoon. But I’d been married for nearly a decade, and this was my solo adventure, a gift to myself while my husband toured Colorado’s Backcountry Discovery Route. ■ We both have our passions; mine being surfing and all things water, while he craves motorbikes and off-roading adventures. With the calendar before us, I set my eyes on Tahiti and he on Colorado. ■ There was little I knew about the destination, other than I could put my French to use in a place known for epic waves, and of course Bora Bora. With 118 islands and five archipelagoes, this French collective beckoned me to just about every island, except Bora Bora. I was on a quest for the uncommon, the cultural, and the fluid core of French Polynesia. ■ From San Diego, I drove to LAX and caught a direct eight-hour flight to Tahiti on Air Tahiti Nui. They have daily nonstop service between LAX and Tahiti’s International Airport near the capital of Papeete. SEE POLYNESIA • E11

A Tahitian outrigger canoe sits on the powdery shores of Tetiaroa. MARLISE KAST-MYERS Top photos, from left: The pure joy of island life expressed in the face of a Tahitian child. Swim with manta rays around the islands of Mo’orea or Tikehau. The boundless treasures of Tetiaroa. TAHITI TOURISM; TAHITI TOURISM; TIHONI MAIRE

ROSY U.S. ECONOMY SPARKS UPTICK IN FALL TRAVEL tor, Suzanne Hall. Flight searches are up, too: The airfare prediction app Hopper saw a 32 percent increase in searches for this fall and winter, compared with the same seasons last year. Here are where many of those people are headed:

Topping the list of itinerary hot spots are New York, Italy, Mexico, Kenya and the river cruises of Europe BY SHIVANI VORA If you want to avoid the crowds this fall and winter, you may want to steer away from New York, Italy and even Kenya. Those three spots — along with Mexico and the historic waterways of Europe — are apparently among the most popular destinations for Americans headed on a vacation during the next few months. In general, travel by Americans is on an upswing, compared with the past few years, particularly for those traveling overseas, according to Tourism Economics, part of the economic research firm Oxford Economics. “The growth of travel in the U.S. is an economics story,” said

Adam Sacks, the president of Tourism Economics. “The dollar is relatively strong, taxes are lower, and wages are increasing so consumer confidence is extremely high, and people have more disposable income to spend on travel.” One sign that travel is up: Three large travel networks, American Express Travel, Signature Travel Network and Ensemble Travel Group, all report an increase in bookings for late 2018 and early 2019, compared with the same period last year. Ensemble, for example, which has more than $5 billion a year in leisure travel sales, is predicting a more than a 15 percent jump during this period, according to its senior direc-

New York

MIHAI ANDRITOIU ISTOCKPHOTO

New York City is a popular fall destination because of all the cultural events and Broadway shows that attract visitors.

This cultural and social hot spot continues to attract huge numbers of visitors. On Booking.com, the city was the top booked destination in the country by Americans looking to take a trip between Sept. 15 and March 15, 2019. And according to the airfare comparison app Fareness, New York had the most airfare bookings from Sept. 15 to March 15, compared with any other domestic destination. New York is a draw for the SEE FALL • E12

THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE

Baja calendar Baja Ha-Ha Cruisers Rally: Oct. 28-Nov. 10. Nearly 475 crew and 130 boats participated in last year’s annual rally, a 750-mile two-week trek from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas. The cruise draws sailors of all ages and experience levels, in a variety of vessels, and from as far away as Europe. More information: baja-haha.com Antifaces y Catrinas Festival: 7 p.m. Oct. 31. Mexicali’s Plaza de las Artes, CEART, is the location for the family friendly

Masks and Catrinas Festival, featuring dance, music and art, a catrina contest, free candy for children, and more. Admission is free.

Goodbye Tour to Mexico, including a concert performance at Tijuana’s Gasmart Stadium. Tickets start at $136 on intl.stubhub.com

Festival del Camaron: Nov. 2-4. The annual Shrimp Festival is one of the most important events in San Felipe. Live music plays, fishermen unload their daily catch along the sandy beaches of the Sea of Cortez, and chefs compete to create the best shrimp dish. Admission is free. More information: sanfelipe.com.mx

Baja Sandboard 2018: Nov. 4. International competitors hit the slopes — as in the dunes of Cuervitos in Los Algodones, located just 40 minutes from Mexicali — for the extreme sport of sandboarding. More information: facebook.com/ bajasandboard or sandboardmexico.com Mariachi Vargas de Tecalitlán: 7 p.m. Nov. 9. International favorites, Mexican folk ensemble Mariachi Vargas de

Deep Purple: 8 p.m. Nov. 3. Hard rockers Deep Purple are bringing the Long

Tecalitlán, will perform at Tijuana’s cultural center, CECUT. Tickets start at about $45. Tickets: servieventos.com.mx Baja 1000: Nov. 14-18. The 51st SCORE Baja 1000 returns with the classic point-to-point race, out of Ensenada and back, over desert, beach and mountain and terrains in cars, trucks, motorcycles and quads. More information: scoreinternational.com Salsa Bachata Festival: Nov. 15-18. The dance festival weekend, at Tijuana’s Hotel Gamma del Fiesta Inn, will be full of workshops and performances by

POLYNESIA FROM E10 With a row to myself, I sprawled out until awakened by a flight attendant, her hair pulled back and adorned with a gardenia. This was not a fashion statement but rather a tradition, something I soon found commonplace in lei necklaces, floral crowns and fragrant petal baths. Passengers awaiting their stamp of entry were serenaded by ukuleles, drums and flutes upstaged by the Tahitian dance, Ori Tahiti. It’s like hula with less arms and more hips. Outside the airport, the sweet perfume of leis hit me like a wave. Surrounded by affectionate couples, I was in honeymooner’s haven, a place I set out to redefine as an adventure-seekers utopia. It was midnight (3 a.m. my time) when I arrived at Manava Suite Resort Tahiti, located 10 minutes from the airport and 20 from the harbor. Rumor had it the hotel fronted Ta’apuna surf spot. This shallow, reef break is considered “baby Teahupo’o,” the heaviest wave in the world. From the infinity pool, I watched as surfers paddled 20 minutes into the lineup — the sky streaked with pinks and purples over Mo’orea, the first of four islands on my itinerary. Within an hour, I was aboard Poe Maia Catamaran for an overnight sailing trip around Mo’orea. The transportation seemed fitting since Polynesians first developed catamarans in 1500 B.C. Just 28 nautical miles from Tahiti, Mo’orea rises from the ocean like a cathedral, with dramatic green spires crowned by billowing darkness. Skirting the shores are thatched huts draped in bougainvillea and hibiscus. Outrigger canoes cut through the water as dolphins played in our wake. The rhythm of the waves took over, and before long, I found myself lying face down on the catamaran net. Mesmerized by the water’s transparency, I soaked in the hues of blues, inviting me into a world of boundless brilliance. Only the motion of the swell caused me to stir, announcing our arrival to Haapiti. At this surf spot off Mo’orea, I was in for an 8-foot day with steep drops and a riverlike current that longed to pull me out to sea. The 30-minute paddle to the break was exhausting, leaving me with Gumby-like arms and humbling wipeouts. It certainly wasn’t the best session of my life, but it might have been the most breathtaking. Jagged mountains and rainforest slopes crescendoed to the 3,960-foot volcanic summit of Mount Tohivea. From the top are views of Mont Routui, two bays and three peninsulas. Beyond surfing and hiking, catamaran passengers can pick from pearl farms, vanilla fields, coffee plantations and pineapplewine “vineyards.” I could

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SUNDAY • OCTOBER 28, 2018

international artists and world dance champions, plus competitions, pre and after parties, social dancing and a concert by singer-songwriter (and dancer) Dani J. Tickets are sold by event; the full festival pass costs $99 in advance. More information: tijuanasbf.com

events information, email at least two weeks in advance to cynthia.zanone@ sduniontribune.com

Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa: www.hilton.com/moorea Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort: www.tikehaupearlbeachresort.com The Brando: www.thebrando.com BOOK Air Tahiti Nui: www.airtahitinui.com Poe Maia Catamaran: www.facebook.com/ poecharter Enjoy Boat Tours Moorea: www.enjoyboattoursmoorea.com Tikehau Plongee: www.tuamotu-plongee.com For more info, visit: www.tahititourisme.com

Anchored in the still lagoon of Tetiaroa during The Brando’s island tour.

Take a front-row seat to paradise at The Brando’s beachfront villa. ways; below was a crystal lagoon where exotic fish darted between pylons and coral gardens. At check-in, I was greeted by Amo, owner of Enjoy Boat Tours Moorea. I signed up for the four-hour whale-watching tour (JuneOctober), which lasted six hours — not for lack of wildlife, but rather for its overabundance. Like Moby Dick minus the harpoon, we were on the hunt for these magical creatures. And then, there it was, our first whale’s tail slapping the horizon with vigor. Every camera went into paparazzi mode, thrilled by the wonder before us. If only we knew. Over the next five hours, we saw more than 60 humpback whales, and each time, I jumped overboard to swim with the beasts. In our group of 10, just four of us snorkeled with these bussized mammals. Our guide Amo was

have even left with a Polynesian tattoo in the birthplace of this sacred social marker. Having absorbed enough pain for one day, I opted for a Hinano beer. My captain insisted on preparing the national dish, Poisson cru (“ia ota” in Tahitian). This version of Polynesian ceviche is marinated with lime juice and coconut milk and tossed with vegetables. That night, we anchored in O pu nohu Bay, not far from Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort. The location made it easy to arrive by dingy to the overwater-bungalow hotel. Last year, Tahiti celebrated its 50th anniversary of the first luxury hut on stilts. Now was my chance to experience these iconic symbols of paradise, perched over clear waters and shaded by palapas. Hilton Moorea didn’t disappoint, with a string of glassbottom bungalows connected by wooden walk-

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A shy strawberry crab says hello in Tetiaroa. beside himself, especially when we encountered a pod of pilot whales. He warned us that, on occasion, a whitetip shark might be lurking near the baby whales. “Stay together, and don’t panic,” he said adjusting his snorkel. The moment my mask dipped below the surface, I saw not one, but 12 sharks approaching. Amo immediately huddled our group, and ordered the captain to drop the ladder. On board, we couldn’t contain our excitement, a muddle of joy and fear, as we witnessed an orchestratedlike dance of breaching whales and circling sharks. Sitting alone on the bow of the boat, I was overwhelmed with gratitude that nature had gifted us with an unparalleled moment in time. Back on the shores of Mo’orea, locals were celebrating Sunday — splashing in the bay, swaying in ham-

cancellation. Confirm information your trip. To submit Baja California

STAY Manava Suite Resort Tahiti: www.manavatahitiresort.com

Overwater bungalows at Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort.

Events are subject to change or with event organizer before booking

Tijuana: Centro Cultural Tijuana (CECUT): Tijuana’s cultural center is open Tuesdays through Sundays. $4 admission; special event tickets vary; admission to the aquarium is about $1.50 to $2.50; botanic garden admis-

If you go

MARLISE KAST-MYERS PHOTOS

sion is free. Paseo de Los Héroes and Francisco Javier Mina, Zona Rio, Tijuana. More information: cecut.gob.mx

mocks and barbecuing on grills propped over the water. Leftovers were handfed to manta rays, or wrapped in foil for passing boats. Residents mingled with tourists as if one big family, smiling, with no hidden agenda other than to share joy. After kayaking around Hilton, I boarded Terevau ferry back to Tahiti. The largest island in French Polynesia, Tahiti is the gateway to surrounding islands ... and so much more. Its mountainous interior boasts streams, valleys and waterfalls, and the bustling capital is buzzing with markets, music, dance, art and culture. It’s also home to Arahurahu marae (temple), a sacred meeting place for ancient ceremonies and celebrations. I caught an hour flight to Tikehau, one of the 77 atolls that make up Tuamotu Islands. For anyone interested in diving, Tikehau’s transparent world is a must. Set on Motu Tiano islet, Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort served as the ideal base for diving excursions. Thirteen Polynesian villas dot a coconut grove, fringed by pink-sand beaches. Another 24 overwater bungalows push off the mainland. Snorkeling and kayaking are onsite attractions, but most people book diving trips with Tikehau Plongee. Expect to see tuna, barracuda and manta rays up to 13 feet. Kneeling on the ocean floor, I leaned back as the belly of a manta ray skimmed my forehead.

Saving the best for last, I ended my trip at Tetiaroa, an atoll of 12 islands centered by a sparkling lagoon. Only one is developed by The Brando, named for Marlon Brando who fell in love with Tetiaroa while filming “Mutiny on the Bounty.” Passionate about preserving the island’s biodiversity, the actor bought the atoll in 1967 and turned it into a model for sustainability. Officially opened in 2014, The Brando is considered the greenest resort in the South Pacific. A 20-minute flight from Tahiti, it’s like the “Where’s Waldo” of resorts. All 35 villas are tucked behind gardens on white-sandy beaches frequented by exotic birds. This year they released a record-breaking 25,000 green turtles. Guests can navigate the 2-mile island by bike or golf cart, or spend the day in their villas complete with plunge pools, media rooms, jungle baths and windows galore. Included in the rate are meals and drinks, plus one daily activity and spa treatment. For an energy boost, the Peue Blend massage combines Shiatsu, yoga and Thai into one out-of-bodyinto-mind experience. Activities run the gamut of tennis, biking, snorkeling, fishing and beyond. I chose the behind-thescenes Green Tour, and the Tetiaroa Ultimate Tour of the atoll. It was led by the experienced and fabulous naturalist guide Tihoni, who has a heart for the islands that runs deep. He pointed out the dovelike common tern, the redfooted booby, strawberry crabs and the 45 hives of resident bees that produce 827 pounds of honey every two months. Never had I experienced such splendor, with shades of turquoise I didn’t know existed. For the grand finale, we anchored in the still lagoon, waded in kneedeep water and pinched the sugary sand between our toes. I told Tihoni it would be hard to describe a place such as this. He told me it’s more about “her” energy and her desire to shine for those who loved her back. I gave him a puzzled look. “It’s a she,” Tihoni explained. “The islands I mean, she’s female.” I smiled and asked if she might feel loved by me. “Well, let’s just say I’ve lived in French Polynesia all my life, and today, she’s showing off for you.”

Kast-Myers is travel writer based in Vista. Her website is www.marlisekast.com.

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