The Noe Valley Voice • May 2022
Chefs Anya El-Wattar (left) and Dominique Crenn crafted a dinner that raised more than $100,000 for Ukrainian refugees. Guests were treated to a five-course meal, with wine pairings, at El-Wattar’s Birch & Rye restaurant. Photo by Natalie Schrik, Drew Altizer Photography
Russian and French Chefs Inspire Donors To Give Big at Local Benefit for Ukraine CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1
invasion of Ukraine launched Feb. 24 by Russian President Vladimir Putin. All proceeds will benefit the nonprofit World Central Kitchen, which is distributing food and hot meals to refugees in and near Ukraine. The fundraiser—perhaps commonplace in tony Pacific Heights but a rare occurrence in laid-back Noe Valley— drew a mix of Noe Valley and greater Bay Area residents, many of Ukrainian or Russian descent. Among the speakers was celebrity chef Traci Des Jardins, a James Beard award winner and a longtime supporter of World Central. Marina SapritskyNahum of the London School of Economics and Ukrainian writer Aleksandra Bulatskaya also addressed the crowd. A restaurant spokesperson said diners were press-shy, and most wished to remain anonymous. “We heard from many guests that the symbolism of having this powerful
gathering in a Russian restaurant felt significant,” said El-Wattar, who opened Birch & Rye just two weeks before the war erupted. “It gave people a sliver of hope to see something positive come from an establishment rooted in Russian tradition, yet simultaneously pro-Ukraine,” she said. Diners sampled everything from buckwheat tartlet beluga lentil mousse porcini, shaved truffles, and mustard flowers to Savoy cabbage sauerkraut with smoked crème fraîche and sweet potato persillade. Dessert was rye honey cake with whipped smetana cream, caramelized almonds, and candied orange dust. At one point during the gathering at 1320 Castro St., diners participated in a contest to determine which dish was French and which was Russian. “Almost no one could tell, which told us that the menu blended seamlessly,” said El-Wattar.
Treating the neighborhood for 161 (dog) years! Above : Paula & Celia on opening day, 1999
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