Ahora

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Ahora


The best revenge is massive success. — Frank Sinatra



Table of Contents I Hate You, Philipp Plein

8.

16. 28.

A Little Party Never Killed Nobody

Simons, Immortal

My Spanish Story of Success: Massimo Dutti How Has Zara Become the Best World Retailer?

66.

56.

Sephora: The Story of Conquest

10 Men Whose Word Actually Matter

Be Stupid. #RenzoRosso

100.

46.

88.

76.

My Black, Your White

Things to Know Before Starting a Fashion Brand

114.



Success is not accident. It’s the result of hard work and learning from failure. I’m thankful for the fashion experience I’ve got. Thankful for a passion for football. Thankful for every next step I’m going to take to get closer to my goal.


I’ll never leave fashion. I’ll never leave football. This creative beauty makes me happy, this 90-minute game makes me alive. My heart belongs to this. What makes me powerful, passionate, real. Now is the moment. Ahora es el momento. Ora è il momento C’est maintenant le moment. Сейчас самое время.

Yours, L.M.


I hate you, Philipp Plein


“Cool jewel be shining so bright Strawberry champagne all night Sex by the fire at night Silk sheets and diamonds all white Lucky for you, that’s what I like, that’s what I like…” That’s What I Like, Bruno Mars


A

And what if I actually think that you overestimate yourself? You make it premium. You make it crazy. I don’t want to believe in the power of your Empire. But I do start believing in it, Mr. Plein. 84 exclusive boutiques all around the world with top locations in New York, Milan, London, Paris, Moscow, Monte Carlo, Saint-Tropez, Vienna, Dubai, Seoul, etc. You make it way too global, way too fast. And do you know what? I just saw a picture of your new, sparkling with glitters and gloss boutique at Harrods. How dare you?

Set trends rather than follow them, break the rules and dictate your own; establish ideals, ruin them and award freedom to those who deserve it. You’re aggressive in your intentions, Mr. Plein. You make your more than 100 (statistics to 2011, of course, there are more of your, deal little Pleinees) employees work as they are crazy. You’re known for contemporary and cosmopolitan luxury: the way you talk about the brand, yourself and global world conquest reveals your ego. You love yourself, and I do love it as exactly this kind of a little exaggerated exclusivity of your Persona makes you wild and passionate about success. I see fire, and you make it burn.

Y

S

You’ve made it way too quick, actually. When you established your brand, in 1998, I was just two years old. And look which one of us has achieved more success? You’ve got Ed Westwick with Terry Richardson, Chris Brown with Lindsay Lohan, Lucky Blue Smith, Pyper America, Hailey Baldwin and even Fergie for your ‘Alice in Ghettoland’. You got fascinating shops, mind-blowing runways shows, amazing parties and fancy life on a private jet.


I see fire, and you make it burn.

2017, p.11



Though, I must confess. I love the way you work, the way you behave. Provocation suits you. Who cares about anyone else’s success if your own house shines with exclusive marble and your Rolls-Royce (also Lamborghini Aventador Roadster and Bentley Continental) is literally bigger than anyone else’s Rolls-Royce? Have you seen your AW 2017/18 show? “Exploding monster trucks, tuxedoed dudes riding on Jet Skis with rapper Theophilus London performing on the back… Snoop Dogg rapping ‘Drop It Like It’s Hot’ while Paris Hilton sings along in the audience,” described your madness GQ fashion director Robert Johnston. It’s too much, over excessive and arrogant. You aim is too high, you release your arrows way too far. You go huge, go wild, go expensive. Two years ago you were nobody. Your name was hardly recognizable, only some fancy VIP people heard about you - but not the public, not the audience; back then you were invisible hairpin (I literally mean it here). In seconds, your name has rocketed into the fashion Olympus. You are outstanding. Everyone wants you now. You’re like an obsession, like a poison, like a guilty pleasure. What have you done? And who are you, after all? I don’t get it…wait, I got it. You’re a 38-year-old rebel born in Munich, Germany, in the family of a doctor. You attended the elite Schloss Salem school; then you started studying law but dropped it fast in exchange for a furniture designer career. I got it. For just a few month you’ve built your first empire, a furniture one. I got it. Stainless steel, graphic designs and original approach to your new business had led you to your first entrepreneurial success. It’s in your veins, right? I mean, It’s not just this chuck to success but the passion to luxury is in its broader sense. You produced a lot, you bought a lot and you just wanted a lot - so, with time, you started making bags. They were after tables. There were bags after tables. I Got it, again. Success, success, success. Blah-blah-blah.


You

Your first bestseller was a crocodile-skin-covered steel table - in a few the popularity came to your cushions decorated with a crystal skull. Yes, exactly this skull had been transformed into your company’s symbol later on. It’s a beautiful skull, so much Damien Hirst and his For the Love of God, 18th-century human skull encrusted with 8.601 flawless diamonds. You’re good, literally good. After the design success, you decided to go with fashion. You’ve made a jacket. Then you decided to sell it. You made up a stupidly high price and assumed that no one would buy it. But people started to buy it. Was it a shock for you? “I sold so many of them that I made at least a million [dollars] in a few months,” you said. And it sounds so simple when you’re telling that. It’s just a million dollars in a few months. There is no need to continue studying your bio, enough for now. I wanted to write that you’re successful but I’ve changed my mind: instead, I would better say that you’re (YOU ARE) success itself. It’s sarcastic, wild, dramatic. You’re dangerous, Mr. Plein. I hate you, I love you.


1998 – Establishment of the Philipp Plein company; 2000 – Launch of the Home Collection inclusing interior and outdoor furnishings; 2004 – Launch of the casual fashion collection; 2006 – Launch of the accessories collection; 2008 – Launch of the Philipp Plein fashion collection; 2009 – Inauguration of the Milan showroom; 2010 – First Philipp Plein Women’s fashion show SS11 during Milan Fashion Week; 2012 – Launch of the Philipp Plein Junior Collection.


by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin for Vogue Paris


A little party never killed Nobody Nobody Nobody Nobody Nobody

2017, p.17


by Ellen Von Unwerth Vogue Japan


by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott W Magazine


by Mario Testino Vogue EspaĂąa


by Mario Testino Macallan Campaign

by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Vogue Paris


by Sebastian Kim Allure US

2017, p.22


by Erwin Olaf Elle US


“Style is a simple way of saying complicated things.”

Jean Cocteau



Giampaolo


Sgura


S

imons


Immortal


DIOR Raf Simons decided to break it silently, without an ovation and a farewell party, without champagne fountains and glamorous sparkling tears – right after the Spring/Summer 2016 show Simons announced his final decision. I’m quitting, I’m sorry.

The story of an authentic ego of Mrs. Christian Dior himself started in a small city of Neerpelt in Belgium, close to the border with the Netherlands.

“In our village, there was no cinema, no museum, no gallery, or boutique. There wasn’t anything there...I had no access to things I clearly felt an attraction to. Art, and fashion,” smiled Simons. His father, Jacques Simons was a soldier and his mother, Mrs. Alda Beckers cleaned the houses. As an ordinary boy who came from a working-class family, Simons finished the school and, successfully, entered the University in Genk where started his BA studies in industrial design. He wanted to get rid of the cozy hometown, to break out the cage he was living in for a long time, so he decided to take this risk and start building his own career.

The text was written in Nov.2015



“When I turned 18, it was time to run, run, run away from that and forget the whole thing. At this age you want the city, you want fashion, you want culture, you want art,” said Simons. He graduated in 1991 and got a position in a small furniture shop. It was not his dream, and it was not even the beginning of his career – it was the end of the life of ‘an ordinary boy’ and an official start of a great successful way in a completely different sphere, in the art.

“You know, I was not someone who was so interested in fashion before I went to university. I was not obsessed with clothes at all.”

A year before graduation, in 1990 Simon’s friend, the designer Walter Van Beirendonck (Simons also worked for him as an intern) took a young hardworking student to Paris to see the collection of another Belgian designer Maison Margiela. The show took place in a playground (the children played with the models); it was not all about fashion instead, it was all about an unusual great performance hidden under the ‘fashionable’ sign. “It was so different! It was a split second…a slash of ‘Ah!” said Simons with excitement in the eyes.

He wanted to be a part of the world that not just exhibits clothes to the ecstatic public but tells real genuine stories. After being impressed with the first show he’d ever seen, he set a new purpose to himself: to impress Linda Loppa, the head of a fashion department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. She was the only option for Simons, like a door in a big world of realized dreams. To make this dream come true he decided to create a collection and show it to Loppa as an exam. He made a few skinny black suits, sleeveless shirts and several interpretations of school uniforms. Simons hoped to get the invitation to Loppa’s MBA program course but instead, his new idol suggested him not to waste time in the university with her and to set up his own business instead.

2017, p.32




“There was no thinking time – I had to create a company.” The first 35 pieces that Simons made as a test were hung in a Milan showroom by a fashion sales agent for European distribution Daniele Ghiselli (Loppa’s recommendation) – they sold out all the samples just in a few days. One after another, the clients from all over the world started to buy the elegantly simple clothes made by for now hardly recognizable Belgian designer.

“Fashion makes it more complicated, and it makes it more challenging.” Simons decided to go with menswear after two his female friends dropped out. He was the only model for himself. The first 50 garments, then 50 more, 100 more – and finally the Belgian talent has launched a huge well-functioned machine, aka his own brand that was officially established in 1995. He got the first runway show permission in 1997 and presented the Fall/Winter 1997 collection in Paris, France.

Simons is the person of an art world. Music matters, as much as art. He designed clothes inspired by musical bands such as New Order, Joy Division, the Manic Street Preachers, Depeche Mode and Kraftwerk, etc.

“Then it was no fashion the way we now define fashion. No relation to fashion designers, brands, and fashion houses.” Those are the kind of things you’re not supported to talk about in fashion. But that’s the core of the designer’s work: to capture the moment of time, to transform it and represent it the way is supposed to be viewed from designer’s own perspective.

“Dior did that, in 1947, when the New Look captured the fantasies and tensions of a postwar fashion industry looking to make women dream and return home.” Simons does it too as the clothes he makes actually speak to the masses; reflects the turmoil of the outer world using the out loud voice of fashion.


Simons has not been sure in fashion for 100 %. Almost all the time he forces himself to stop and rethink the life he lives. Is fashion the thing that can actually make him happy? Back in the 90s, he got to know the deep, thoughtful and provocative world of Margiela, and then in a few found himself being surrounded by nonsensical brands and shitty clothes of a low quality. He expected everyone to be telling stories but instead got the ‘twice a year’ scheduled world of runways, presentations, and first-row picky celebrities. Once he stopped designing for 12 months – during that time he was working on ‘other projects’ and even edited the issue of a British style publication i-D. He also taught at the university for 5 years in Vienna, Austria while curating an art show with Francesco Bonami for the Pitti Discovery Foundation in Florence called ‘The Fourth Sex’, about the adolescent period when your sexuality is not yet defined.

The reaction of the public is much more important than the consumers’ money. Simons has gotten the idea that everything that he makes should be meaningful, saying more, it should be understandable and clear not only to him as ‘an artist’ but for the public, for everyone that was passing through/ near his artworks.

In June 2005 Simons was appointed as a creative director of Jil Sander (the Prada Group concern which was later acquired by Change Capital Partners and then GIBO Co. SpA, the Italian subsidiary of Japanese firm Onward Holdings Co. Ltd.) That was the first time when Simons had gotten under his control not only the male line of the brand but also used to take over women’s clothing and accessories.

During Simons’ era in Jil Sander, he changed the brand’s principles from black&white restrained ideas to commercially free and decisive. In addition to the key women’s line, he created a Jil Sander Navy brand that was more naïve and easygoing in fashion terms. He also tried his authentic Belgian game in the couture side of runway fashion when back in 2010 when he presented several pieces of his new collection inspired by couture spirit; the clothes were full of colors, the game of shapes and proportions.


“I had lovely relationship with fashion.”



He’s not a newcomer to the world of fashion, as he has already gained a lot of great experience and practice at Sander’s spot. Anyway, even the alien to the fashion world knows that Dior is special.

In February 2012, just two days before the runway show of Fall/Winter 2012-13 season, Simons announced the end of his tenure in Jil Sander. The last runway show had suddenly turned into a farewell party with loud applause and streams of tears.

No one in the fashion hall of the show wanted Simons to go out, honestly speaking because of no one was sure he’d take another position in any fashion house. It could be the end of Simons’ career, as knowing him, everyone could suppose that after a love affair with Jil Sander he could go back to Belgium, settle in a village somewhere in the outback and ride his bicycle all day long by taking pauses to newspapers reading, espresso drinking, and flower gardening.

Luckily, he was not ready to leave the world he has already become a part of. Starting from September 2011, when the newspapers launched a ‘Simons is leaving Jil Sander’ campaign, the rumors about designer’s possible departure to Yves Saint Laurent fashion house to replace Stefano Pilati had started to float around. Later, the press reported that Simons had talks with Christian Dior representatives. It was, by the way, the right time for Simons to suggest himself to Dior’s department. The creative director’s chair in the house had remained vacant since John Galliano’s departure in March 2011. Days of dull silence had turned into a loud announcement from Paris-based Christian Dior headquarters. Raf Simons was appointed a new creative director of the French house.

. In seven weeks he’d already done his couture collection that presented under the Christian Dior trademark in July 2012. Millions of flower fallings from the ceiling, beauty, and romantics inspired by the French Riviera, the A-line and H-line silhouettes and classics of the Bar jackets had shut down the critics that were angry with Simons’ appointment.

2017, p.39


The man had finally found himself in the right place in right time. That was a new era, a new switch from Dior to Diorgh (Flemish and Belgian accents). And it’s for the best, to distinguish yourself from the public you need to be a bit ‘alien’ to the sphere you’re in.

Simons created 6 collections a year for Christian Dior house while continued working with the menswear department of his own brand back in Antwerp. It was such a difference for him to catch the elite x simplicity contrast: in Dior, there were 75 people for couture and 50 for ready- to-wear for while in Antwerp he had just 8 people working with him. Christian Dior for Raf is “very much about nature and purity”. Simons reincarnated Dior’s New Look Bar jacket “as half of a shorts suit”; added evening-gown silhouettes, and put emphasize on the waist.

An ordinary boy got to conquer fashion world’s great attitude from the elite. His face is really nice: bold black eyebrows over the undefended gaze of dark-blue eyes, the mouth is curiously tight, the lower jaw thrust forward. Simons hates to be photographed. He’s “a tall teenager that dresses like a student” (dark pants, a sweater or a jumper and a collar of a colorful (not white) shirt visible at the crewneck) in the description of millions of publications and “a pure genius” in critics of the fashion personas. He wears no watch and carries an ancient cell phone; smiles only when needs and is scared of the speed of time.

After three and a half years, on October 22, 2015, Raf Simons resigned from his post at Christian Dior. In a statement, the designer left was said that it was a decision based entirely and equally on his desire to focus on other interests in his life, including his own brand, and passions that drove him outside his work.

So, why? Just because. 48-year-old Simons is exactly the person who can dart off and change the life in the second while keeping a poker face and unshakable calm. In this world that everything is drowning in a mess, Raf creates something that really catches attention. This matters. Raf matters. It was actually a Diorgh era – the one created by a 40-50s mixed with the contemporary art scene.


Calvin Klein Fall 2017

Dior Couture Spring 2013

Dior Fall 2013

Jil Sander Fall 2009

Jil Sander Fall 2011

Dior Spring 2014

Dior Fall 2013

Jil Sander Fall 2012

Jil Sander Spring 2010


PATRICK DEMARCHELIER



VOGUE JAPAN AUGUST 2015 Models: Caroline Trentini, Yuan Bo Chao, Luping Wong; Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura; Stylist: Anna Dello Russo; Hair stylist: Andrew Guida Makeup: Jessica Nedza



M D

assimo

utti


My Spanish Story...

...of Success


I

“I wanna this,” claimed Katy. “And this!” heard customers in one of the stores at Oxford Street, London. And probably THIS…I bet you also want every single piece from the new collection: this dress with a double pleated detail for £50 or this biker-style waistcoat for £80. Greatly sewed from high-quality materials, perfectly decorated with a minimalistic skeptical styling idea, and amazingly fit everything around - the Massimo Dutti world suggests you a little bit of luxury mass market, and you love it. A clothes manufacturing company Massimo Dutti began its takeover of the fast-fashion market in 1985, when the businessman Armando Lasauca launched the purely Spanish brand in DNA in Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain. At the beginning, the product range was limited to men’s clothing, with a women’s line added just in 1992, and children’s fashion collection added over a decade later, in 2003 (Massimo Dutti Boys & Girls). Launched independently, starting from 1991, the brand functions under control of Inditex group that also monitors Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius and Pull&Bear. From that moment the company has started to grow and dramatically expand with every single year – for now, it’s one of the largest growing organizations in the world with a consistent rise and the revenue of €1.498 million.


The

Having outstanding popularity in European and Asian markets, many experts wondered why Massimo Dutti did not make an appearance in the United Stated. Only on 12 October 2012, the brand tremendously entered the New York 5th Avenue shopping area, occupying the former Zara space of 13.000-square fit. The CEO of the company Pablo Isla, in a statement released in 2012, announced that the brand successfully reached $1.3 billion after sales in 2012; also, the company gained 24% growth in comparison to its sister concern Zara’s 19%. The brand suggests a very smart politics of attracting new customers: it’s strictly classical while flirty romantic with black and white perfect combinations and bright colorful emphasizes at the same time around the globe.

Spanish brand with Italian MassimoDuttian name – note, it’s not a name of a designer, CEO or founder, it’s a trademark – has 885 stores in more than 73 countries worldwide, including 204 stores in Spain, 52 stores in Russia, 37 in Mexico and 79 in China. Over 9.500 employees work directly for the company, though this number can never be named accurately as every day the brand hires new people.


Branded classical but contemporary clothes are suited to the modern audience who wants to look very good but can’t yet afford the luxury of Prada or Armani. Massimo Dutti pieces walk the fine line between casual and tailored, fashionable but not overly fashion obsessed (do not exaggerate). The brand is known for “creation of built-to-last staples that take design cues from European tailoring and classic silhouettes.�

Dutti Massimo Dutti is the next level of Zara idea: taking a closer look you notice that actually the brands copy each other, and carry the same ideological message in their collections. Dutti is just a half-step higher over the mass-market Zara: they pretend to be luxury, pretend to be rich, and pretend to be pretentious. The shapes are more tailored, the details are more complicated and the tucks are thinner, the materials are of a higher-quality and the colors are of the deeper sense.


The years of hard work, commitment to excellence and passion for fashion provided Massimo Dutti brand with a great quality, outstanding brand image and set brand identity. The brand has expanded into many new spheres, cooperated with celebrities and introduced many of new items that make people obsessed with Massimo Dutti - the result? They are one of the most loved brands all over the world. Finally, and amazingly.



MARIO TESTINO


2017, p.54


“We don’t need fashion to survive, we just desire it so much.”

Marc Jacobs


e b a r a d Z l r s o a h w t w s o e H b e h t e m co ? r e l i a t re

ZA


RA


Top news: in December 2016, the Inditex founder Amancio Ortega has become the second-richest man in the world according to Forbes, earning more than £5bn since 2010 and acquiring a net worth of £58bn. To clarify, the Inditex is the biggest multinational fashion group in the world that operates over 7.200 stores in 93 markets worldwide and owns the Zara brand, Massimo Dutti company, Bershka, Pull & Bear, etc.

as soft “th”) – is the most successful representative of such an interesting definition as “fast fashion,” meaning, they are able to develop a new product and get it to stores within two weeks, while other retailers take six months. Also, twice a week, Zara, at least slightly, refreshes its stores.

It’s an innovative story of success, it’s from ‘Zero to ZARA’, from down to the top, from an idea to realization. It’s the largest fashion retailer in Europe, and probably in the world already. It is devastating, all-absorbing and tremendously huge. Zara – pronounced as “tsada,” or phonetically, “dzah-dah” (as the retailer is based in Artexio, Spain, the dominant dialect is Northern Castilian; “z” should be pronounced

After the Spanish expansion, in 1988 the company started its international expansion through Porto, Portugal. In 1989, it entered the United States, and then France in 1990. For the next decade, Zara was actively expanding In Europe, Asia, and America. In September 2010, Zara launched its online boutique. The website began in Spain, the UK, Portugal, Italy, Germany, and France.

Founded in 1974, Zara has quickly acquired world recognition: it’s LOVE, it’s an amazing story standing behind it and enormous Through years, the story of Zara time and efforts. The story of Zara has been transformed from a tiny had actually started with the two shop in downtown La Coruña, north- names on the “founders” graph: ern Spain, to an incredible 2.169 Amancio Ortega and his wife Rochain of stores opened in 88 coundalia Mera. Unfortunately, in 2013, tries. More than 128.000 employees Mera died at the age of 69. According are responsible for Zara being a top to the data, she was the wealthiest brand, while more than 25 million self-made woman in the world with followers on Facebook, 1.24 million a state estimated at 6.1 billion dolon Twitter and 20.6 million followers lars. Currently, the company is in on Instagram are tracking the social the hands of Mr. Ortega, 81, and his life of the company. three kids.


ZARA

Fast Fashion


1

4

Business secrets: Amancio Ortega

Speed is everything

2

Obsess over what your customers want

3

Stay true to your roots

5

Never stop innovating

Control the supply chain


After the Spanish expansion, in 1988 the company started its international enlargement through Porto, Portugal. In 1989, the company entered the United States, and later on France in 1990. For the next decade, Zara was actively developing their brand in Europe, Asia, and America. In September 2010, Zara launched its online boutique. The website began in Spain, the UK, Portugal, Italy, Germany, and France. In November that same year, Zara Online extended the service to five more countries (not mentioning already entered Spain, Portugal, Italy, Germany, the UK and France): Austria, Ireland, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg. Online stores began operating in the United States in 2011, Russia and Canada in 2013, and Mexico, Romania, and South Korea in 2014. In 2015, Zara opened 65 more clothig stores and added 50 more Zara Home locations. For now, Spain in the biggest market with 436 stores, followed by China (193 stores), France (129), Italy and Japan (100 each). To January 2017, the US had 78 stores. Two rules have been standing on the top of Zara Bible for years: #1 Give the Customers What They Want and #2 Give It Quickly. Reportedly, each Zara designer creates three items a day, thus

while the industry’s average is from 2000 to 4000 items a brand, Zara pushes 12.000 items per year. The company’s designers communicate and brainstorm together; they do not go to fashion shows ‘to be inspired,’ instead, they find the inspiration in everything that surrounds them, so, the real life, real people, real fashion. They collaborate with bloggers, pay great attention to comfortable streetwear and relaxed street style. To May 2017, the brand value is estimated to $11.3 billion, and the revenue is up to $15.9 million. Also, Zara is number #53 in the list of world’s most valuable brands. Zara suggests great average-priced high-quality designer products that actually cost about 5% of the prices of real designer’s pieces. Though, the quality and styling are not inferior. Now it’s the brand with a style “rather than just an affordable high street shop.” Zara’s mission statement is simple: “We are committed to satisfying the desires of our customers. As a result we pledge to continuously innovate our business to improve your experience. We promise to provide new designs made from quality materials that are affordable.” The brand is good in what it does, probably that’s why the company constantly reports record sales and profits.



Vogue Japan February 2014 Models: Zuzanna Bijoch; Photographer: Pierpaolo Ferrari; Stylist: Giovanna Battaglia; Hair stylist: Andrew Guida; Makeup: Jessica Nedza


“I think there is beauty in everything. What ‘normal’ people would perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it.” Alexander McQueen




SEPHORA


Since Sephora has taken the No.1 beauty retailer position, understanding of beauty shopping has been turned upside down. No traditional “tasting” and blind purchasing - only new innovative concept, new “try it” idea and new fascinating products presented.

Without jokes, Sephora has changed the way women shop for cosmetics – the traditional department counters have been substituted with the competition suggested: just take from the storeroom all the products you have and put them on a visual display, so potential customers can touch, see, taste and feel the product, the brand stands behind it.

A worldwide-known French chain of cosmetics stores Sephora was founded in 1969. Representing more than 300 brands together with its own private label Sephora accordingly, the company offers a wide range of products starting with makeup, skin and haircare, and finishing with fragrances.

Sephora was firstly launched in Paris in a partnership between the UK’s Boots PLC ( the pharmacy chain) and Nouvelles Galeries as a perfumery chain in 1970. Dominique Mandonnaud bought the brand in 1993 and merged it with his own perfume line under the common Sephora name that comes from Greek Zipporah, the most beautiful wife of Moses. Mandonnaud was responsible for “taste it in the store before buying” idea – he completely changed the way people used cosmetics stores, the sales experience that existed before, the retail model that laid the basis of every single store.

Through the 1990s, Mandonnaud was responsible for the successful brand expansion that has been celebrated by the opening of a top luxury flagship store in Champs Élysées in 1997. Right after, the brand had been sold to LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennecy) group, who expanded the stores globally and bolstered the chain’s product offerings to include beauty and cosmetic products.


Sephora

The company is known for diverse brands represented. Some of them include NARS Cosmetics, Make Up For Ever, Urban Decay, Benefit Cosmetics, Kat Von D, Bobbi Brown, Lancôme Cosmetics, YSL Beauty by Yves Saint Laurent. Packaging for the line features the company’s logo is in standard black print.

2017, p.69



In 2013, the brand debuted fragrance collections with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and a makeup line with Marc Jacobs.

Sephora opened its first American store in New York’s Soho neighborhood in 1998, and its first Canadian store in Toronto in 2004. The brand launched its online version in the USA in 1999 and did the same in Canada in 2003. The Canadian head office was opened in February 2007 by Marie-Christine Marchives, a former Sephora, and France Sephora employee.

Being widespread in Europe, Sephora operates approximately 2,300 stores in 33 countries worldwide, with an expanding base of over 430 stores across the Americas. According to the reports of 2013, the brand operates $4 billion in revenue. As of September 2013, the Sephora at Champs Élysées in Paris, France, attracts over six million people a year.

Sephora has earned its reputation as a beauty trailblazer with its expertise, innovation, and entrepreneurial spirit. BEAUTY is Sephora’s DNA. They turned to be the most successful beauty company, and the reason for that is trivial: social media. Not only politics, economics, pop culture world have been transformed but the beauty industry got upside down. Bloggers, Instagrammers, and Youtubers with their beauty tutorials and makeup tips teach girls how to be a fully beauty-updated.

The characters from social media substituted real assistants in the shops, so girls coming to the store already know what ombre lipstick they want and what eyeshadow would suit them better – there is no need to have an assistant standing next to you, you yourself now can figure out how and what to do to with the products suggested.

People can come and play in this beauty world. The company’s main idea is to give customers a chance to taste what they probably want to buy. The game is harsh but the magical thing is that the more you play, the more you’re bewitched, the more you’re going to spend.


Harper’s Bazaar August 2016 Model: Amilna Estevao; Photographer: Alexi Lubomirski; Stylist: Anna Trevelyan; Hair: Teddy Charles; Makeup: Tyron Machhausen



ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI



10 If the fashion journalism world is womanized, then check your info again: THESE men dictate your fashion.

men whose word actually matter


Edward Enninful

Being sensational, Edward Enninful, 45-year-old Ghanaian-born stylist, from the very beginning knew secrets of ‘shocking effect’: he was appointed fashion director of i-D magazine at the age of 18 and turned to be the first male editor of Vogue in April 2017. Resigned in January 2017, Alexandra Shulman left after her a vacant position of an editor-in-chief of Vogue UK - having a top reputation in the fashion world and working as a style director of W Magazine for the past six years, Enninful easily got the position. After moving to London, Enninful was scouted as a model on the train at 16 and briefly modeled for Arena and i-D magazines before starting his styling career. 2017, p.77


Being a genius of fashion, he’s never afraid of using all his encyclopedic vocabulary, sarcastic language, and sharp commentary. Fury is smart, well-educated and analytical - having a degree in fashion history and theory from Central Saint Martins and experience of writing for Vogue Nippon, Fantastic Man, 10 Men, Elle and Elle Collections, he’s a top fashion correspondent of our century. Currently, Fury is the fashion editor of The Independent and chief fashion correspondent at T magazine. Before, he worked for the Love magazine and held the role of fashion director at Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio from 2008 to 2012.

Alexander Fury


Drew Elliott

That’s the man who’s guilty of THAT cover of Kim Kardashian (#BreakTheInternet). Successfully playing with the digital world, the chief creative officer of Paper magazine Drew Elliot has attracted the global awareness to his person, and the magazine respectively. Understanding the power of social media and the immortal rule of the “herd instinct” have played on his side. Elliot got his degree from New York University’s Gallatin School of Individualized Study in 2003 (Pop Culture and English major). In 2008, he got a position of a vice president at Paper Communications. Two years later, he moved to California to work for a social media company the Audience, but returned back to New York in 2014 to take a top position in his beloved Paper.


While at school, Hack founded Dazed Media, the independent publishing company responsible for Dazed & Confused, Dazed Digital, AnOther Magazine and AnOther Man. In 1992, D & C has been launched as a black and white self-distributed “cultural alternative� to mainstream fashion and art publications. Hack and his friend Rankin Waddell wanted to rebel - and they successfully turned their dream into reality. Currently, all the publications created by Hack have enormous popularity among young generations - they are free, not the mainstream and rebelliously provocative in the core.

Jefferson Hack


Jim Nelson

He’s the man who’s been responsible for successful development and growth of the top men’s publication, GQ US, since 1997. Starting as a broadcast journalist at the D.C. bureau of CNN after graduating from Notre Dame University with a degree in American Studies, Nelson, later on, moved to Los Angeles where firstly worked as an assistant on scripts for low-grade comedy sitcoms. In 1994 he got a chance to join the team of Harper’s Bazaar where he stayed until 1997, the year he acquired a position of a senior editor at GQ; in 2002 he was promoted to the executive editor position, and later on, to the editor-in-chief throne.


Simone Marchetti

Not working for a super popular magazine (like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar or Elle, etc.), Marchetti is considered as one of the greatest voices of fashion in journalism. Except for well-constructed language and thus perfectly made intelligent texts, he got a very thin elegant styling taste. Spotted by every single fashion photographer during the fashion weeks period, he prefers prints and classical tailoring; being original and elegant at the same time is his credo. For the past several years he has worked as a fashion editor of Italian newspaper La Repubblica, considered to be the most important publication in Italy. 2017, p.82


Tonchi probably is the man with one of the richest publishing careers: he had worked at T magazine as the supplement’s launch editor-in-chief in 2004 (his success was marked with 15 issues of T annually, with international growth and recognition and with the launch of an exclusive website). Before joining Esquire as a fashion director in 1998 (stayed there util 2003), he worked as a creative director for J.Crew. Prior to that, he served as an editor and later a fashion director for L’Uomo Vogue, from 1987 to 1994. Back to the present days, from 2004 to 2010, he worked as an editor for The New York Times Style Magazine and since 2010, he’s an editor of W Magazine.

Stefano Tonchi


Olivier Zahm

Someone is always playing a bad guy in the drama staged: in fashion journalism, the role has been taken by Olivier Zahm, the editor-in-chief of Purple Fashion. His sarcastic provocation and rebellious take on fashion and art (and sex, of course) have made his person recognizable, and his publication outstandingly popular. The best photographers, among whom are Juergen Teller, Terry Richardson, Wolfgang Tillmans and Mario Sorrenti, love drinking cognac with Zahm, and are always happy to cooperate with the creation of impudent fashion. He had art directed campaigns for Saint Laurent and Uniqlo, and lensed campaigns for Hogan and Agent Provocateur. Additionally, Zahm has also produced magazines for Chanel and Printemps. Since 1992, he’s been the head of Purple Magazine.


There is no need to introduce him, if you know at least something about fashion, you know his name: Derek Blasberg. A blogger, an author of a bestseller ‘Classy: Exceptional Advice for the Extremely Modern Lady,’ a fashion writer and a former editor-at-large for Harper’s Bazaar US, VMAN and V Magazine, Blasberg now works for Vanity Fair being the magazine’s Man on the Street. He moved to New York from his native Missouri to enter New York University, where he majored in dramatic literature and journalism. Following his graduation in 2004, he secured an assistant role at American Vogue. From 2006 to 2010 he was an editor of Style.com, in 2009 and 2010 worked for Interview Magazine.

Derek Blasberg


Angelo Flaccavento

Undoubtedly, Flaccavento is one of the most respected and highly appreciated fashion writers of our time. There are no jokes or relaxed fancy coverage, only detailed texts with the artful angle and an avant-garde taste. His erudite voice has brought him to contributions for Il Sole 24 Ore, GQ, Fantastic Man, and L’Uomo Vogue. Since birth, he has been living in Sicily, the sunny part of Italy where the inspiration is reachable 24/7 365 days a year. “I love words. I think fashion is a fantastic subject as it’s the most immediate, acute, and precise reflection of society. It keeps me excited because it is constantly changing; the more fashion moves, the more my writing style evolves – a mutual feeding I truly enjoy,” he said once.


Laragh McCann by Thanassis Krikis for Schรถn! Summer 2012


My Black, Your White


Candice Swanepoel & Caroline Trentini W Magazine


Kasia Struss NumĂŠro Tokyo


Gemma Ward Vogue Italia

2017, p.91


Stella Tennant W Magazine


Elena Bagucci Elle Spain


Eva Herzigova Elle Italia

Emily Ratajkowski Vogue Spain


Elsa Hosk Elle US


Karlie Kloss Vogue Paris


Bojana Panic Vogue Spain



ELLEN VON UNWERTH


Be Stupid.


He is sitting as there are no people in Bassano del Grappa, a special 50,000 residents town that he transformed into an OTB headquarter. Dripped dark gray jeans with luft pockets and metallic sparkling buttons, premium-class glossy black jacket with sequins inserts, and metallic sunglasses is of one eponymous brand that actually belongs to him. He sits frivolously, hastily scratching his grey curly hair that looks like a clown’s wig, and tries to prove me than the more you play a stupid man, the more success you achieve.


Things get simple when 61-year-old Italian-born denim genius Renzo Rosso talks about his exclusive life in Bassano, Italy, and about OTB (stands for Only The Brave immortal motto) holding group that controls Maison Margiela, Viktor&Rolf, Marni, the most significant revenue generator, Diesel, and Staff International (manufacturer and distributor of DSuared2, Just Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs Men). He has $3 billion of revenue in his pocket and probably will have additional +3 in the coming few years. Actually, Rosso has absolutely nothing to worry about as his life as well as money he jungles with won’t run out of him – the OTB is fully controllable by his six kids and by the only one cool Diesel creative director and a rebellious alter-ego of Rosso Nicola Formichetti. They won’t go and won’t let down the bravest fashion empire the sphere has seen. If not a stylish bar and a free gym in the headquarters of the company holds the employees, who then? Born in 15 Sept 1955, in a small northeastern Italian town of Brugine in the farmer’s family, Rosso has always had a dream to get rid of the life he was born in. Growing up surrounded by horses and sheep, helping parents non-stop with the farmers’ chores and having a talk with the American army soldiers that shared with him their rice pudding as the best childhood memory ever, at 20, finally, he enrolled in textile manufacturing course at Padua’s Instituto Marconi. He thought it would be easy, but in reality, that was intolerantly bad. After he quitted the university, Rosso was accepted to a position of a production technician at Adriano Goldschnied, “the Godfather of Denim” factory.


Foolish and flatulently ambitions, Rosso did not work well at the job he hated. When Goldschmied got tired of instability and the unwillingness to work, he invited young Rosso to a dinner and fired him. Five minutes later, Rosso was accepted back. Somehow, a boy that just lost a job in the company begged the Denim boss that he could rise up the revenue of the company in the coming few weeks – exactly in a week, Rosso doubled the production of a company. Further – more. “Revenue grew from $2.8 million to $10.8 million in the first year,” Goldschmeid recalls. Being sure in Rosso and the future success of a selfish boy, in 1978 Goldschmied agreed to launch a new denim company together with his former employee that might have turned to be the best decision he had ever made. They bet on a low-level startup denim business. There was no potential, no respect and no trust to denim production; back then denim was strictly oriented to a young audience, not even a middle and especially a premium class audience.

2017, p. 103



But Rosso believed in his success and had a clear plan of bringing status to denim production, and their just-launched company respectively. Several years, thousands of sleepless nights and inestimable efforts transformed a startup into a global empire with billions of annual revenue. He has never been an actual designer, that was just a nice picture for a wider audience – in truth, he was an entrepreneur to the core. Like an eagle, he had a sharp look and a tenacious grip but not a sewing talent and actually a desire to make clothes. Having the vein of a businessman, in 1985, Rosso bough out Goldschmied’s stake for $500,000. If you fail, you will fail big – having this motto in mind he rebuilt the company’s structure from the bottom to the top. It was the moment, this restless hooligan boy got full control over the whole business. After rethinking the marketing strategy and brand’s values, Rosso decided to go with the high-quality vintage styles denim brand of the premium class. Warm and distressed grunge style of the jeans quickly turned into the new branded signature of Diesel – controversial, bold, new brand with incredibly rich stories and intended impudent success. Expanding the brand and spreading the influence all around the world with enormous power and speed, Rosso reached the top of success in 2002 when he finally decided to establish a top-holding company, and a new dangerous competitor of LVMH and Kering OTB that right away at the same year took full control over Maison Margiela, and Marni. In 2008 and 2012 Victor&Rolf and Staff International joined the company. From the very beginning, OTB was different. It’s not simply a luxurious company with perfectly ironed suits inside and neat elegant dresses, vice versa it’s all about unpretentious freedom, wild hair, and naked breast. “It’s so cool,” Formichetti said. “You go to the office, and everyone’s in sunglasses, all fucked-up. There’s this punk-rock attitude—where in other companies, you’d get fired.” They know what they want and they conquer this fashion world step-by-step. In overall, Rosso is just 61.


Diesel, the most successful of the OTB’s companies has 15 lines, 12 licenses, 19 subsidiaries, and 400 stand-alone stores in 80 countries. It employs 6.000 people and generates $1.8 billion in sales each year. The brand is provocation itself. No one had ever put limits of boundaries to the freedom of designers or even the production busy-with-ads-making team. Surreal campaigns that could easily blow public’s mind is what makes Diesel talk. In 1995, Rosso launched first ever gay-themed ad for Diesel: two men dressed as sailors kissed in front of the festive boat celebrating the end of WWII. After that – only “be stupid”, “make love not war” and diving into “whites only” pool black man. Touching politics, religion, and sexuality, popping up questions of racial discrimination and LGBT rights was a must for Rosso. It’s bold, new and controversial as Only The Brave won’t support any other idea. They photograph the greatest of the greatest, catch the best of the best and are not afraid of being perceived wrong. In truth, they constantly play with a “stupid” motto of Mr. Rosso; the brand wants to follow creativity and break the freedom with boundaries less bold actions. They do play with craziest things, party like animals and go wild when it’s needed. In 2013 Diesel hired their first-ever creative director Nicola Formicetti, the one who got a world-wide popularity through styling Lady Gaga. Diesel represents a very particular in-core-rebellious image of fashionistas; they are growing up generations of cool quarrelsome guys. Basically, that Diesel does follows the motivations and aspirations of their founder – Rosso has never been a wordless introvert guy – his energy and coolness have been always bringing perfect an idealized example of how a cool enjoying-at-full life man should look like. “The night before, jet-lagged, they had ventured out of the Chateau Marmont for burgers on the Sunset Strip,” describes the way Lauren Collin’s interview with Rosso went. “We woke up at 2, and the music was boom boom boom, so we say, ‘Let’s go there!’ And there were all these crazy people in the bar!” Rosso said. Without shame, he’s a party animal.


“We wake up at 2, and the music was boom boom boom, so we say, Let’s go there!’ And there were all these crazy people in the bar!”



Actually, much more could be said about a person who buys Andy Warhol and Francesco Bartoli in dozens and writes books about how stupidity could bring you to success. About a man who pledged 5.5 million euros (roughly $6 million) to repair the historic Rialto Bridge, one of four bridges over Venice’s Grand Canal and who every day checks his chateau’s garage with Aston Martin DB9, Cadillac Escalade and Mercedez Benz S-Class inside. About a genius who flies on a private jet, rests in Greek islands, controls the soccer club of his hometown Bassano Virtus 55 S.T. (55 – is the year of his birth) and drinks his own wine produced on a Diesel Farm.

On the pillows scattered around his village the inscription flaunts “BE STUPID”; the best advice Mr. Rosso can give is to wear jeans every single day. He smiles like in a few hours he will be again on his private jet flying to Miami on a party where Coldplay and DiCaprio are already waiting for him, smiles like Lady Gaga just texted him and thanked for awesome costumers from Diesel that she and her team were wearing on a Superbowl 2017, and like AC Milan just asked Diesel to be theirofficial fashion image maker.

And you got it right, Rosso tremendously succeeded and…he’s just the coolest. #bestupid

2017, p.109


“I loathe narcissism, but I approve of vanity.�

Diana Vreeland




CRAIG MCDEAN


Things to know before starting a fashion brand

1

“I Will Have It” idea is of a key importance. I can give you a hundred of examples of a successful use of such a strategy: Diane Von Furstenberg and her iconic dress, Christian Louboutin and the Tory Burch got this Reva flats idea. If you believe that you will have it, you will literally have it.

3

2

You cannot build your success lacking passion. If you’re not passionate enough, if you don’t want to build a business worth millions of dollars, better don’t start.

Your DNA matters; the message you’re sending has its power – concentrate on the key idea, intention, ideology of your brand and develop it into success. If you understand what you want – the difficulty to build the brand of your dream reduces at twice.


4

Money matters. Only money. Your talent? Of course. The contact book filled with thousands of useful telephone numbers and mails? Sure. But the most important is still nothing of these – do not be in a blind fairytale, money is what matter in reality.

The fashion brands are dangerIt was not always so extreme. The ously poor – without money the generation of a baby boomer conbrands just simply don’t work, the sisted of children of a middle class functioning is possible only if the or working parents (mostly immiconstant money flow (portable, grants, by the way). Tommy Hilpreferably) is on. Most of the defiger, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, signers, both American and Euro- Alexander McQueen, John Galliapean are taking their money from no and Jean-Paul Gaultier were all families, more rarely from their guys from the downside – thanks own funds; being a “designer” is to their determination and efforts tough, as while you “design”, your they forced the luck to burn in a family should work hard to pay bright fire. Though, now it’s almost the bills of your production. Ari unaffordable to normal people Bloom of A2B Ventures, a strategic reach THIS kind of success or at advisory firm that often counsels least reach it THIS way. Fashion young designers, says that a deInstitute of Technology suggests signer needs $2 million to $3 mil- its new students to pay Baccalaulion to get a ready-to-wear compa- reate-level, out-of-state residents ny off the ground, and calculating $9796.00 per semester; at Centhe average salaries per month of tral Saint Martins in London the a simple middle-class person, the process for the same program is idea is understandable without any £9,250 per semester. explanation: people without money won’t have even the entry budget.


5 6

Connections are important. If you don’t have stylists, editors, models and photographers in your “friends” lists and contact books – go and find them. Do not launch the #mostimportanttest in life without some sort of a “pool”. Anyone and everyone will be counted, and the thing here is not in promotion or laudatory comments, the idea lays in the wordof-mouth thing that perfectly works in the circles of the fashion elite. No matter where, which, who’s telling and who’s sending the message (you), the idea is simply in a “mentioning” thing. If I accidentally (or purposefully, better for you) mention to my friend photographer over a glass of wine how I loved the coat designed by your brand that accidentally popped up in my Facebook feed, and he, my photo-friend, will go to check your page, will love the shoes and the concept, will contact his acknowledged stylist – and so the round will be almost closed – and these two will text you in a private message with a suggestion of cooperation. This world lives with this kind of communication, don’t run from it

You need luck. I refuse writing long explanatory texts about it. Unremitting toil, determination and passion are important, but the luck is decisive.

7

You need a great social media army. The one thing that can be cheaper than just a bling million investment is the social media recognition and reputation building. Your followers are the potential customers, so go and talk to them openly.


8

The barriers of entry to this new business are much higher that expected and considered, even if you have money and contacts – your empty head on the shoulders will help you to drown, not to climb on this mountain.

9

Good PR is a must. Wish you to find a perfect PR guy, or being an outstanding PR person yourself. Now new brands almost have to run PR like a political campaign--getting awareness out AND creating a reputation in their market segment (be it for quality, glamour, luxury, or whatever else). Just showing up with the clothes or money (again, and yes, no matter how well designed) won’t work anymore.

Know your devils – obstacles, competitors, people and barriers to entry. Be ready to fail but never give up if the idea of “building my own business”. It should be put deep into your head.

10

2017, p.117


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Massimo Dutti – page 49: https://spicyfashionbunny.wordpress.com/tag/danny-schwarz; page 50: http://angelcambraia.blogspot.com.by/2011/05/; page 51: http://theimpression.com/mcq-alexander-mcqueen-y-3-massimo-duttispring-2015-ad-preview/; https://www.modalia.es/moda/massimo-dutti/6067-spring-getaway-campana.html; http:// www.ohlalamag.com/en/2013/02/toni-garrn-dave-genat-by-mario-testino-for-massimo-dutti-spring-summer-2013-campaign.html; http://trendsfolio.com/2014/03/massimo-dutti-men-taipei/; http://magnaprod.com/content/massimo-dutti-1; http://www.fansshare.com/gallery/photos/378840/Edita-Vilkeviciute-For-Massimo-Dutti-Fall-Winter/?displaying; Mario Testino – page 52: https://cz.pinterest.com/sartorialgirl/red/?lp=true; http://celebsvenue.com/stella-tennant-forus-vogue-september-2012-by-mario-testino-12-hq-pictures/stella-tennant-for-us-vogue-september-2012-by-mario-testino-11/; https://paperdoesntdie.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/la-vida-es-un-carnaval/; https://pleasurephoto.wordpress. com/2013/11/04/natalia-vodianova-vogue-2009/; page 53: http://www.mfa.org/node/1519; http://visualoptimism. blogspot.com.by/2013/08/prima-donna-catherine-mcneil-by-mario.html; http://joaokerfalar.blogspot.com.by/2013/01/ ta-na-banca-kristen-stewart-e-lena.html; http://fashionistas.com.gr/article.asp?id=6296; http://hufmagazine.com/ street-style-obsession-photography-mario-testino-vogue-japan/; page 54: http://yesofcorsa.com/marc-jacobs/; Zara – page 56: http://www.fashionisers.com/fashion-news/zara-spring-summer-2017-campaign; page 57: http://lepetitparisien.fr/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/MN01.jpg; psge 59: zara.com ; page 60: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/0b/62/d8/0b62d8ab2768b95adcadc01876ea8702.jpg; page 62: http://olga-bubel.livejournal.com/306545. html; page 65: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/va-releases-trailer-ahead-of-alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty-exhibition-opening-next-week-10090522.html; Sephora – page 66: http://www.hautedvie.com/7sephora-perks-need-know-right-now/; page 69: http://www.wiseshe.com/2017/03/beginners-guide-for-shopping-atsephora-india-store.html; page 70: http://www.vogue.in/content/ its-true-sephora-is-opening-in-another-city-apart-from-delhi/; https://aroundtheworldin80brands.wordpress. com/2013/11/03/meeting-elizabeth-angles-dauriac-at-sephora-in-paris; http://www.sephora-me.com/en/stores/ stores-services/pid1262.html; page 73: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/photography/g7554/fall-floral-fashion/; Alexi Lubomirski – page 74: http://fashionproduction.blogspot.com.by/2013/06/alexi-lubomirski.html; http://www. alexilubomirski.com/image-collections/vogue-arabia; https://www.gotceleb.com/catherine-mcneil-vogue-russia-magazine-june-2015-2015-05-22.html/catherine-mcneil-vogue-russia-2015-09/full-image; http://country-magazines.blogspot. com.by/2015/11/model-sasha-luss-by-alexi-lubomirski.html; http://wallpaperswide.com/a_pair_of_lovers-wallpapers. html; http://wallpaperrs.com/female-model-girl-edita-vilkeviciute-lithuania-fashion-style-fashion-super-sublime-hd-wallpaper-59214.html; page 75: http://www.fspoiler.com/2013/10/allure-us-outubro-2013.html; http://www. stylemagazin.hu/hir/Egyedulallo-vagyok-nem-maganyos-Noknek-akik-kileptek-sajat-bortonukbol/16163/keresd-a-not/ lelekhangok; http://celebs-place.com/photos/catherine-mcneil/page4/; https://blog.nextmanagement.com/2016/07/14/ lina-hoss-vogue-australia-august-2016/; https://viewmanagement.wordpress.com/posts/page/32/; 10 men whose word actually matter – page 77: https://apparatusmag.com/2017/04/10/british-vogue-taps-edward-enninful-as-new-editor-inchief/; page 78: https://fashionista.com/2016/09/alexander-fury; page 79: http://americasnexttopmodel.wikia.com/ wiki/Drew_Elliott; page 80: https://alchetron.com/Jefferson-Hack-591400-W; page 81: https://fashionweekdaily.com/ fma-mens-magazine-gq-jim-nelson/; page 82: http://www.bacoluxury.com/baco-style-italian-editor-simone-marchetti/; page 83: https://www.wmagazine.com/topic/stefano-tonchi; page 84: https://alchetron.com/Olivier-Zahm-924634-W; page 85: http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/qui-est-derek-blasberg-meilleur-ami-de-la-mode-et-presentateur-a-cnnstyle-271116-117855; page 86: http://www.boyfromdagbon.com/through-the-lens-angelo-flaccavento/; My black, your white – page 87: https://cz.pinterest.com/pin/389279961520385122/; page 89: http://68.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ mctphb1Cmn1qgngcgo1_1280.jpg; page 90: http://emmamattson.blogspot.com.by/2010/08/lace-legs.html; page 91: http://markedeternal.blogspot.com.by/2013/02/lila-confusion-is-gone.html; page 92: http://www.designscene. net/2013/03/stella-tennant-by-steven-meisel-for-w-magazine.html; page 93: http://www.fashion-mags.com/2013/04/ elena-baguci-elle-spain-may-2013.html; page 94: http://lesbeehive.com/tag/david-burton/; https://cz.pinterest.com/ pin/162551867781080281/; page 95: http://awake-smile.blogspot.com.by/2016/12/28-stories-elle-us-january-2017-by. html; page 96: https://theboonreport.wordpress.com/page/47/; page 97: http://www.elements-magazine. com/2013_10_01_archive.html; Ellen von Unwerth – page 98: http://drinkblackwater.com/2011/06/05/ashley-smithby-ellen-von-unwerth-for-vogue-turkey/; http://maplemag.com/culture/ellen-von-unwerth-extasis-sensualidad-moda/; https://cz.pinterest.com/pin/518265869597716709/; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqyBxQybyM4; http://imgur. com/gallery/Z7hml; page 99: https://alchetron.com/Ellen-von-Unwerth-872683-W; http://www.guiltymag.com/en/ ellen-von-unwerth-smart-sensuality/; http://www.gotceleb.com/georgia-may-jagger-vogue-russia-magazine-january-2015-2014-12-11.html/georgia-may-jagger-vogue-russia-2015-09; https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/topic/heimat; http:// www.designscene.net/2010/04/shrek-by-ellen-von-unwerth-for-vman.html; Renzo Rosso – page 103: https://i-d.vice. com/en_gb/topic/renzo-rosso; page 104: http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/renzo-rosso-no-stopping-his-engine; https://www.squaremile.com/renzo-rosso-interview/; page 107: http://stylecaster.com/diesels-artistic-director-nicola-formichetti-kim-kardashian-promote-brand/; page 108: https://www.squaremile.com/renzo-rosso-interview/; https://www.squaremile.com/renzo-rosso-interview/; page 111: http://metropoli.elmundo.es/teatro/2015/10/14/561e17 e9268e3e6c668b4642.html; Craig Mcdean – page 112: http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/christian-dior-raf-simonsfrom-the-archives; https://celebrityrater.com/picture/159984/sasha-pivovarova; https://pleasurephotoroom.wordpress. com/2013/04/08/photo-craig-mcdean-sienna-miller-vogue/; http://celebmafia.com/grimes-photoshoot-another-maga-


zine-springsummer-2016-480988/; https://catherinemair.wordpress.com/2014/04/24/further-layout-inspiration/; http://starwiki.org/uma-thurman/photo?page=2; http://www.taringa.net/posts/imagenes/18801124/Mila-Kunis-HD. html; page 113: https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/spring-fashion-mood-board-rainy-day/all; http://celebsvenue.com/ saskia-de-brauw-for-w-magazine-october-2013-photo-shoot-by-craig-mcdean/saskia-de-brauw-for-w-magazine-october2013-photo-shoot-by-craig-mcdean-5/; https://au.pinterest.com/pin/542754192571057272/; http://spanish.fansshare. com/gallery/photos/14866574/natasha-poly-by-craig-mcdean-vogue-us-april-husband/?displaying; Things to know before starting a fashion brand – page 114: https://allthingsmajor.wordpress.com/2012/07/27/make-me-a-star/; http:// fashion-landscape.com/editorial-neue-journal%E2%80%8F/; page 115: http://cp14.nevsepic.com. ua/192/19173/1385115766-309536.jpg; page 117: http://vestinewsrf.ru/zvezdy_i_znamenitosti/dzhidzhi_hadid_fotosessiya_dlya_vogue_2016; page 120: https://it.pinterest.com/pin/717901996820833649/; page 121: http://1aike31wshtt3k0e9u2nxtwz.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/torkil-gudnason-animal-series-9.jpg. All images are taken from the internet; credited. Fonts are found on the internet.

Niki Nagy by Jamie Nelson


New beginning...


Esp. No dejes para mañana lo que puedas hacer hoy. Esp. Si vale la pena hacerlo, vale la pena hacerlo bien. It. Il segreto per andare avanti è iniziare. Esp. Nunca es demasiado tarde para hacer lo que ames. It. Se vuoi qualcosa che no hai mai avuti in vita tua, dovrai fare qualcosa che non hai mai fatto. It. Sii più forte delle tue scuse. Esp. Nunca dejes de creer. It. Se no riesci a smettere di pensarci, no smettere lavorarci su. It. Ricorda perche hai iniziato. Esp. Nada es imposible. Esp. Mantén tus ojos en las estrellas y tus pies sobre la tierra. It. Non tutte le ciambelle riescono col buco. Esp. Quien te odia, es porque un dia intentó ser como tú y no pudo. It. Siamo al mondo per essere veri, non perfetti. Esp. Nada es para siempre. El café se enfría, la gente se va, el tiempo pasa y las per son cambian. It. Ci vuole tutta la vita per imparare a vivere. It. Anni, amori e bicchieri di vino. Non si cotano mai.


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