DECEMBER ISSUE 2 | 2013
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AFRICAN MEDICINE HOW EFFECTIVE?
Just as one would see an optometrist for problems with vision or an oncologist for treating cancer, so it is the same with traditional healers.
Feature by Heather Balouza
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AFRICA’S GROWTH: IS IT REAL AND SUSTAINABLE?
BUSINESS NOMAD: INTERVIEW
INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITIES IN AFRICA
Contents
36
LAGOS NIGERIA
WHAT IS THERE TO LOVE?
Lagos, Nigeria’s business nerve center and commercial capital of West Africa has every odd stacked against it yet it remains one of the most popular cities of the world.
ON THE COVER
Feature by Paul Adepoju
On the cover is 29-year-old Lindiwe poses as a Sangoma for the cover feature story. Photographed at Sandton, Johannesburg, South Africa. Photographed by African Fashion.
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MICHELLE OKAFOR HOW IT ALL STARTED
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Michelle Okafor has a background in tourism. On a trip to Nigeria in 2009 she was so taken with the colorful African wax prints that she bought a few to make her own outfits. Feature by Lisa Hack
EXISTENCE
THE ART OF SWAZILAND
Beautiful rolling green hills, tropical palm trees, frequent cattle in the road, laughing children waving with both hands
Contents
BUSINESS NOMAD
55 134 MACHINE ON WHEELS
WEST AFRICA WELCOMES E-COMMERCE WITH OPEN ARMS
GALLIVANT
46 |AN ATTEMPT TO BE A
THE NEW 2014 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE NOMAD LIFE STYLE
100| AFRICAN ENTERTAINMENT
TOURIST IN GABON
WHO ARE THE TRUE KINGS & QUEENS OF AFRICAN ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY
THE PLACE OF HEALING
GIVE YOUR RELATIONSHIP A BREAK
67 |KALAHARI
72 |MOZAMBIQUE
HUES OF GREENS AND BLUES
74 | TOP DESTINATIONS
CARNIVAL CALABAR
AINT NO STOPPING US
96 | RELATIONSHIPS
109 | AFRICAN CINEMAS
ACTORS TO LOOK OUT FOR IN 2014
REGULARS
14 | NOMADIC PERSPERTIVE | UNDER AFRICA’S SUN 112 | AFRICAN EVENTS | ZFW: GETTING BETTER 122 | AFRICAN ICON | DESMOND TUTU OF AFRICA: THE UNTOLD STORY 118 | WILDLIFE CONSERVATION | RHINO POACHING: A THORNY ISSUE 130 | FOCUS AFRICA | AFRICA’S TOURISM SET TO BOOST ECONOMIC GROWTH 149 | BACK SEAT | RUNNING OUT OF WISHES
Thegener al bel i efi nAf r i c ai st hatt henor t her nr egi onwoul dbehot t ert hanot herpar t s oft hec ont i nent . L i t er al l yandfigur at i vel y , t hi sas s umpt i ons eemst obet r ueast hes c or c hi ng s uni nMor oc c oi ss t r ongert hant hatofL es ot ho; whi l et heent r opyl evelonEgy pti shi gher t hant hatofDj i bout i .I naddi t i ont odet er mi ni ngt het emper at ur eanddepi c t i ngt hepr edomi nantpol i t i c als i t uat i onsi nt hevar i ousr egi onsofAf r i c a,t hes uni sal s ot hes y mbolof har dwor ks i nc ei ti sex pec t edt hatr ealmenandwomenwoul dbebus ywi t ht hei rwor k s dur i ngs uns hi ne. I nt hi sedi t i onofNOMADAf r i c a, at t ent i oni sdr awnt ot hevar i ousas pec t sofAf r i c aatt he di ffer entt i mesof t heday , wi t hf oc usonhowdai l yac t i vi t i esar ei mpac t i ngt hevar i ousAf r i c an s t at esandt hec ont i nentasawhol e. Dec i pher i ngt her eal s t at usof Af r i c aʼ sgr owt hi st hef oc us oft hepi ec eon“ Af r i c aʼ sGr owt h: I si tr eal ands us t ai nabl e? ”Thepi ec es t r es s edt heneedf ora c l os erl ookatt hefigur esor i gi nat i ngf r om Af r i c awi t ht hegoalofens ur i ngt hatc ur r ent ac hi evement sandr at eofgr owt har es us t ai nabl ei nbot ht hes hor tandl ongt er ms . Weal s os hi net hel i ghtont hec i t yofL agosi nt hi sedi t i on. Thec i t ywhi c hhasbeendes c r i bedbys ever algl obali c onsasDubai , L ondon, New Yor k , Par i sandMec c aputt oget her . Ni ger i aʼ sc ommer c i alc api t alc i t yands oc i alner vec ent eri sabeehi veofac t i vi t i esr oundt he c l oc k . L agosoughtt obeamodel f orot herAf r i c anc i t i est oemul at eandl ear nal otf r om. I ns t ead ofs eei ngt her i s i ngpopul at i onasabur den, t hes t at ehast r ans f or medi ti nt oac ur r enc yf or devel opment . Fr om t hehus t l eandbus t l eof L agos , wei l l umi nat et hebus i nes ss ec t orwi t han ex c l us i vei nt er vi ew wi t hTut uAgy ar e,managi ngpar t ner ,Nubuk eI nves t ment sandI ndependentDi r ec t or , Tul l owOi l . Hes pok et oourc or r es pondentont hegl obal par adi gm s hi f ti n i nves t ment s .Heal s ohi ghl i ght edt hedanger sofl ac koft r ans par enc y ,l i qui di t y ,c or r upt i on andi ns t abi l i t yi nt hepol i t i c alt er r ai n.Hehowevernot edt hatunl i k eanyot herpar toft he wor l d,Af r i c apr es ent soppor t uni t i esf orf as t ergr owt h,c heaper ,mor et r ans par entandl es s c ompet i t i veoppor t uni t i es . Pet erSul l i vanal s oat t empt edt obeat our i s ti nGabon. The64y earol dvet er anwr i t ers ai d hes aw mor eGi antk i ngfis her st hanhehads eeni nhi sent i r el i f e. Fr om Gabon, wet ak ey ou onat r i pt oWes tAf r i c awher eec ommer c ei st ak i ngover . T ak eNi ger i af ori ns t anc e,ec ommer c es upergi ant s , KongaandJ umi aar ebar el yay earol d; y ett heyr ec ei veandpr oc es st ens oft hous andsofor der sdai l y .Ourr epor t eras k edaver yper t i nentques t i onasheunr avel ed t hemy s t er i esbehi ndec ommer c ei nWes tAf r i c a. “ How di dWes tAf r i c anst r ans mogr i f yf r om t ec hnol ogys k ept i c st oec ommer c eent hus i as t s ? ”heas k ed. Weal s ohavewel l r es ear c hedandengagi ngs t or i esonTheAr tofSwaz i l and, Kal ahar i : The pl ac eofheal i ng,Moz ambi que‒huesofgr eensandbl ues ,Car ni valCal abar ,Af r i c anmedi c i ne: How effec t i ve, andani nt i mat ef eat ur es t or yont heac eSout hAf r i c anbas edandNi ger i anmar r i edf as hi ondes i gner , Mi c hel l eOk af or . Hers t or yandj our neyar equi t ei nt r i gui ng. We haves t or yonr el at i ons hi ps , andmyper s onal f avor i t e, whoar et het r uek i ngsandqueensof Af r i c aʼ sent er t ai nmenti ndus t r y ?Wher eweat t emptt odet er mi newhi c hc ount r yi sr eal l yon t opofent er t ai nmenti nAf r i c a? Ast hey earr unst oanend, wet ak eat i met odet er mi neAf r i c anac t or st ol ookoutf ornex t y ear( 2014) . I bel i eveever y onei sc ur i oust ok now whomadeAmey aw Debr ahʼ sc ut . Ther ei s anot herpi ec eont heeveri mpr ovi ngZi mbabweFas hi onWeek ;andi nt hi si s s ue,wear e t ak i ngont het hor nyi s s ueofr hi nopoac hi ng. Savi ngt hebes tf ort hel as t , wear es hi ni ngt hel i ghtony etanot herAf r i c anher o‒Des mondTut uofAf r i c a. Hi sl i f er eec hoest hec hal l engest hatAf r i c ansac r os st hewor l dar ebat t l i ngwi t hever y day . Thi sunt ol ds t or yoft heNobel L aur eat ec oul dbes ai dt obes t r ai ghtf r om t hemovi esonl yt hatt hi sonei s nʼ tawor koffic t i on;i thappenedandi ss t i l lhappeni ngt o manyy oungAf r i c ansl i k eDes mond. Thei c onʼ ss t or ywoul dbeaney eopenerandani ns t r uc t i onmanual onwhatt odowhatt heoddsar eagai ns ty ou, y ett hes t ak esr emai nhi gh.
Contributors
AMEYAW KISSI DEBRAH is a freelance journalist and blogger. He holds a degree in B.A Publishing Studies from the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST), where he was voted the Best Publishing Student of 2005. Debrah was introduced to the world of entertainment, arts and culture when after the university; he did his National Service at Ovation International Magazine in Accra. While at Ovation, he reported on entertainment and celebrity happenings in Ghana for the publication’s international audience.
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JO KROMBERG has been a fervent traveller and writer for more than 20 years. She has been the editor of illustrious business publications like Black Business Quarterly and more recently she edited travel publications like African Safaris and Family Holiday and Leisure magazine. She has covered over a third of the world in her quest for adventure, new cultures and discoveries of all kinds. But her biggest passion remains the continent of Africa in all its natural beauty, diversity and peoples. LISA HACK is a freelance writer based in Johannesburg. She has been writing everything from blogs and web content to ebooks, feature articles, guides and much more since 2003. She has written extensively for the travel niche, focusing on Africa’s rich offerings. Lisa has a background in Marketing and Advertising and spent 10 years as a health and fitness trainer prior to following her passion as a full time writer. Lisa enjoys working with clients from around the globe and brings informative, well-researched and personalized copy to her pieces. MIRIRO MATEMA is a Johannesburg based writer and marketing strategist. She started out as a Public Relations Consultant for an international software developer. She oversaw the communications division and dealt with over 3000 businesses across the globe. During this time, she helped achieve market leadership for its software products whilst establishing her marketing consulting firm Azureceleste. Six years later Miriro has worked with adventurer and maverick Justin Bonello, the Eastern Europe group of countries, Visegrad, and sat on the board of the Zimbabwe Fashion Council to establish designers as vanguards in the fashion industry. PAUL ADEPOJU is a professional writer and freelance journalist. He holds a masters degree in cell biology and genetics, a degree in medical laboratory science, a diploma in legal studies and another diploma in psychology. A journalist who has attended reputable institutions including BBC Training & Development, Donald W. Reynolds Center for Business Journalism and ALISON Canada. Paul has worked with about 20 media organizations across the world, edited several publications and continue to write on various topical issues for media houses in various parts of the world. One of PETER SULLIVAN’s great passions is travel. Together with his two daughters, he has travelled all over the world and gathered a myriad of stories along the way. As former Group Editor-In-Chief of Independent Newspapers, he has always been an adventurer at heart, hence his life-long career as a journalist and his passionate spirit for humanitarianism and exploration. He has been the guest of many governments; from America to Russia, Britain to Brazil and the Ukraine to Zambia. He has travelled to more than 60 countries and in his latest incarnation, he acts in the capacity of media advisor and consultant to companies and organisations – like the United Nations.
ISSUE 2
Nairobi, capital of Kenya. One of Africa’s most beautiful and modern cities.
Feature | Africa’s Growth
Africa’s Growth: Is it real and sustainable?
Feature | Africa’s Growth
Feature | Africa’s Growth
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Feature | Africa’s Growth
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Feature | Africa’s Growth
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Feature | Africa’s Growth
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Feature | Africa’s Growth
Source: Africa’s Attractiveness Survey 2013 by Ernst & Young
Lagos, Nigeria’s business nerve center and commercial capital of West Africa.
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LAGOS NIGERIA WHAT IS THERE TO LOVE?
Lagos, Nigeria’s business nerve center and commercial capital of West Africa has every odd stacked against it yet it remains one of the most popular cities of the world. PAUL ADEPOJU reports from West Africa.
PHOTOGRAPH Jide Odukoya
For anyone that loves to sleep a lot, Lagos is not the city for you because it is popularly known as the city that never sleeps. As early as 3:00, residents are already on the road and around 5:00, traffic begins to build up.
Traffic - A common scene in Lagos, Nigeria.
Night life on the streets of Lagos. No one knows when the last person leaves the street.
PHOTOGRAPH Naija Mayor
N
o one knows when the last person leaves the street – that’s even if the street could even remain empty. Unlike several other cities across Africa where security guards restrict movement and business activities to specific hours, no one can tell Lagosians (as residents of Lagos are popularly called) when not to go around.
For West Africans, Lagos is Dubai, London, New York and Mecca. It is an African city with the Golden Fleece, the place where all dreams could come true. The city attracts skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers from across West Africa and beyond due to the large number of companies, organizations and multinationals that are in the city. It is therefore not inappropriate to call Lagos the best city in West Africa. What did Lagos do right, what can other cities learn from it, and what challenges should the state prepare for as it contends with overpopulation? Lagos’ development started when it became Nigeria’s federal capital city. Like almost all capital cities in West Africa, Lagos is on the coastal region and had large sea
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ports where ships do berth. When the capital of Nigeria was changed to Abuja, many West Africans thought the growth of Lagos had been punctuated. That wasn’t the case as the rate of growth and development in Lagos state continued to increase. More businesses opened in Lagos, many are still opening. It is now very clear that Lagos is Africa’s New York. In terms of governance which is central to the development of any city, Lagos has been extremely lucky. The last 4 governments had been continuous, each continuing where the last stopped unlike in other parts of West Africa where there are conflicts, accusations, allegations and natural tendency of the
incumbent administration to pull down the former’s legacies. Although Lagos state is the smallest state in Nigeria, West Africa, with an area of 356,861 hectares of which 75,755 hectares are wetlands, yet it has the highest population, which is over five per cent of the national estimate. As at 2006, the population of Lagos State was 17.5 million, (based on the parallel count conducted by the state during the National Census) with a growth rate of 3.2%, the state today has a population that is well over 21 million. This was corroborated by the recent immunization exercise carried out across the state where over 4 million children were immunized. According to the United Nations, at its present growth rate, Lagos state will be third largest mega city the world by 2015 after Tokyo in Japan and Bombay in India. Lagos’ strongest bargaining currency is its large population which is higher than that of many countries of the world. Lagos state has the largest market in Africa and it is also riding on the success of the organized private sector and multinationals that started and continues to grow, extending to other parts of West Africa. The nightlife in Lagos state is incomparable to anywhere else in Africa. Whatever your status, Lagos has at least a place for you where you can cool off, chill out and relax. It has numerous clubs, beaches, parks, malls and several others for different categories of residents. Many West Africans believe Lagos is attracting more
attention than other cities in Western Africa because it supports all categories of individuals. “Anyone can survive in Lagos. Even if you don’t have any form of qualification you can still find a thing to do in Lagos. The population here is so large that anything can sell. That is why everyone is coming here,” says Okorie Augustine who sells bottled water at night on the Lagos Third Mainland Bridge. Ayo Akanji is a technology expert who relocated permanently to Lagos. He says it is easier to meet potential partners in Lagos than any other part of West Africa. “If you go to the right clubs and other locations, you would meet the right people that you need to advance your business. This is not easy in elsewhere because the gap is wide.” It is therefore clear that the success of Lagos is not as hard as rocket science to decipher; it is all about its huge population. The companies here are making profits because the population is large enough; the government is being applauded because it is attracting more investments and startup scene continues to expand because of innovations aimed at solving the challenges that the large population is facing. Heavy traffic is probably the singular challenge that the city is battling with. For residents who stay off the Lagos Is-
According to the United Nations, at its present growth rate, Lagos state will be third largest mega city the world by 2015 after Tokyo in Japan and Bombay in India. Lagos’ strongest bargaining currency is its large population which is higher than that of many countries of the world.
A busy market scene in Lagos, Nigeria.
Lagos Third Mainland Bridge - The Longest bridge in West Africa
land, they have to be on the road as early 4:00 to escape the heavy traffic. Accommodation is also expensive, forcing residents who cannot afford to the high cost to move to the neighboring cities across West Africa. New projects are springing up in Lagos state and more land is being re-acclaimed from the waters to give way for new structures. Settlements are getting upgraded. And more jobs are being created for the ever-expanding population who still see Lagos as the place where dreams could be fulfilled. The city is not void of controversies; as a matter of fact, it is almost impossible for any other African city to become more controversial than Lagos. Recently, the state government was at the center of an extensive controversy and national outbursts especially from Nigerians who are indigenes of the southeastern part of the country. They raised dusts when the Lagos state government ‘deported’ some of their natives who were found roaming about on the streets of Lagos. The affected regions vowed to discourage their natives from contributing to the development of Lagos state, yet buses from this region are filled daily with people heading towards the state. The reason for this is not farfetched; according to Francis Madojemu, founder of BridgeHub Incubation Center, more than 70 per cent of Nigeria’s revenue is spent in Lagos. “Out of every dollar made in Nigeria, 70 cents is spent in Lagos. The rest of Nigeria including the Abuja Federal Capital City shares the remaining 30 cents. That is just to show the enormous influence that Lagos has on the Nigerian economy.” He adds that any serious company will strive to be in Lagos. “It is so simple and straightforward. Lagos has the resources, opportunities and the market is large enough for most products, why stay elsewhere? I don’t think this will change anytime soon.” Although Lagos is relevant in the present, many still see it as a city for the future because of the numerous futuristic projects such as the Eko Atlantic City project that was commissioned by US former president Bill Clinton earlier this year. The state also recently commissioned Africa’s first suspended bridge and the tallest hotel in the entire West African region. Several other similar landmark projects are underway, one of such is the Lagos Bullet Train project; the state is also rejuvenating old infrastructures and residents are having the closest experience to what happens in the developed world.
A five star hotel in Lagos, Nigeria. Lagos has lots of places where you can relax and cool off.
The nightlife in Lagos state is incomparable to anywhere else in Africa. Whatever your status, Lagos has at least a place for you where you can cool off, chill out and relax. It has numerous clubs, beaches, parks, malls and several others for different categories of residents.
“Lagos is like a country on its own and it is very unique. I am so proud of the achievement the city has been able to record over the years. It shows that even in the midst of the hullabaloos and bad news that characterize Nigeria in the foreign media, Lagos offers a beacon of hope for the nation,” says Seun Akande, a Lagos resident. World leaders are already aware of the beacon of hope radiating from Lagos, southwest Nigeria which is why it is almost impossible for any world leader to visit Nigeria without visiting Lagos. One of the latest visitors is the world’s richest man, Microsoft’s Bill Gates. When music legends visit Nigeria, they are hosted in Lagos. It is no surprise that Mary J Blige, Kerry Hilson, Beyonce, Yolanda Adams, Rick Ross and several other international musicians weekly throng the city. Even local artistes are all interested in winning their share of the Lagos market since all the major record labels are operating from Lagos. In contemporary Africa however, Lagos continues to attract more people from across the world because it offers the much elusive Golden Fleece. It also supports hustling more than any
other African city. Even though many detest the long hours spent in traffic, the opportunities are overwhelming and the residents are already adjusting to the Lagos lifestyle. “People keep talking about the traffic; only those who are new in Lagos complain about the traffic. I don’t really encounter major traffic. The secret is to know the right time to leave the house, the route to take and the type of transportation to use,” says Eben Sowah a Togolese resident in Lagos. According to him, there is no manual that gives all necessary information one needs to survive in Lagos; one acquires the knowledge as one becomes more familiar with the city. He said: “It took me just 3 weeks to know the city; for my friend, it took him several months. I don’t know about you. What I know is that at the end we will all come to love Lagos.” Lagos state is rich in history, relevant in the present and positioned for the future. Little wonder the city slogan is Eko o ni baje (Lagos will never be destroyed). It will always be the only African city that never sleeps.
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Business Nomad | Interview
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View of the Lodge at Louanga National Park from water.
B
irdlife is special and prolific. On the estuary in the Louango National Park, hundreds of Darters flew with our small boat on the mighty Ongoue River, deep into Gabon's famed forest. It takes six hours by small speedboat from Port Gentil, itself a small harbour town 45 minutes by air from Libreville, to get to a tiny 5-hut camp in Akaka. Akaka is where you are alone in the middle of the rainforest. Awesome. Although the only guest in the entire park, I was provided with three helpers: a chef/fire maker, a boatman/bird guide and a house/bar maid. But I run ahead...It was my first visit to Gabon. First impression on arrival is the country is green, humid, has a musty smell, is very French and is extremely fascinating. Big, smart, new, expensive cars in slow traffic along a lengthy boulevard next to the sea take you from the small airport to beachfront hotels in Libreville. Mmm, this country looks rich, you think. It is when you leave the city that you become aware of the chasm between the haves and have-nots. And you
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discover the fancy SUVs are owned by the rich, but mainly by NGOs, oil companies and government employees. With only 1.5 million people, the biggest rainforest in Africa and a lot of oil, Gabon has great potential. Ah, that word. It captures our hopes and desires, our potential. At school teachers harp on about unfulfilled potential, as do Gabon's friendliest critics. Tourism. Technology. Transport. Telecoms. All need work. I woke up my first morning to a grey and greasy ocean, the eastern Atlantic, with a tepid humid wind blowing across the beachfront. People are warm, friendly and cheerful, yet seem reluctant to do anything. Almost helpless, which of course they are not. Trying to organise a tour to the fabled reserves in the rainforest was trying, to say the least. Tour companies are thin on the ground. Help is not at hand. Prices can be high, at 320 euros a night in Louango for instance and 100 euros for dinner bed and breakfast at the only hotel in Olako, a small town where most residents still live in shacks. The hotel would struggle to earn three stars. But you can bar-
an attempt to be a Tourist in
Gabon
Venturing to Gabon's interior I saw more Giant Kingfishers in an hour than I had seen in my entire 64-year-old life. Africa’s biggest rainforest is awesome, getting there is worth the considerable effort as you will discover so much about the country, its people and its potential. PETER SULLIVAN shares his experience. gain on everything in Gabon, from nights in the park to the price of a soda. That said, the rainforest itself is certainly that overused word, awesome. It inspires awe. It defies description - talk about one huge, tall straight tree and it is immediately out of its jungle context, yet describe the forest itself and you miss the beauty of each tree. You can’t describe the wood for the trees. The extent, too, is vast.
In 2002, President Ali Bongo declared 11 percent of the oilrich country a protected area, a decision with enormous consequences. A decade later the implementation of that decision is creating work for many, from bureaucrats to conservationists and forest police to scientists. All agree Gabon is not yet ready for real tourism, but it has a detailed plan to be ready by 2015. That plan is frank about
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A view of the camp site bar overlooking the park and the ocean.
In 2002, President Ali Bongo declared 11 percent of the oil-rich country a protected area, a decision with enormous consequences. A decade later the implementation of that decision is creating work for many, from bureaucrats to conservationists and forest police to scientists. 48 | NOMADAFRICAMAG.COM
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obstacles, which include: • A lack of qualified personnel in all areas, especially hospitality, accommodation and guiding • An infinite number of competing tourism projects • Nature tourism is largely Anglophone, yet the country speaks only French • Individualism is badly viewed in villages and entrepreneurs or ‘tall poppies’ are cut down to size • Tourism is a complex activity involving many different parties. Patience, money, effort and professionalism are absent. The chain of command is weak; economic viability is precarious, service needs improvement, marketing must be better and public education about tourism is desperately needed • Gabon needs close links between government, community, industry, scientific and conservation partners. Those criticisms or suggestions are all in the plan, so there is no lack of awareness. Heading up Gabon’s parks is Professor Lee White, a strong supporter of the president and a realist about where the country currently is. White says Gabon is just not set up for tourism ... yet. "We have a plan and we're getting there. But infrastructure and tourism skills are not there yet. It will take a while. "There is a big vision for industrial Gabon to help the economy, but we need to take into account that Gabon is also 88% rainforest and 20% protected areas (this figure differs to the 11% mentioned above). "Other countries create parks in their cities - we have created cities in a park. Our challenge is to plan on expanding Libreville with an emerald necklace around it of protected areas.” "I'm lucky, I probably work for the greenest president on
Gallivant | Gabon
the planet. Some of our neighbours are less green so we do have cross-border problems." Getting to my first park was certainly an experience in what still needs to be done. To give readers an idea of travelling in this water world of rainforest, I left the hotel in Libreville at 05.30 in a taxi to the airport, took a 40 minute flight to Port Gentil, then a taxi to the fish market in Port Gentil. There I waited for an hour or two, was on a speedboat for three hours, changed to a long boat, then had a two hour’s car drive and arrived at 15:30 - ten hours later. Even so, you are only at the park's entrance. Getting to Louanga National Park is not easy. And I was lucky I ran into a concession owner at the fish market, who just happened to be going to the park. Asking directions to the speedboat on Port Gentil's oil quay I met Peter Bond, a friendly fellow who invited me to stay next time I was in town. He took me for coffee and a croissant while we waited for the 09:00 boat to take us up the river to Omboue to be ready, which left late at 10:30. Before we embarked, both my Gabonese fellow travellers inquired politely, and independently, whether I knew that Jesus was my saviour. I considered myself fortunate to know the answer. Wide-eyed at my first look at the forest I vocally enjoyed the boat trip, which was just a commute for them. Everyone travels on water in that area, with roads being few and far between. After a night at the lodge, the next morning my carefully
A forest buffalo at Louanga National Park.
arranged 07:00 boat was only ready at 09: to take me from the outskirts of the rainforest into its heart, for the heart of Louango is Akaka; another three-hour boat ride. It was a fascinating one on a lagoon, into floodplains and flanked on all sides by massive rain forest trees, papyrus, palms, undergrowth and other various vegetation. Ever deeper into the rain forest, wild animals emerge and the birdlife becomes more prolific. Akaka is wild; a tiny camp built facing one of the innumerable rivers, estuaries and lagoons. There are only five tents there and no electricity. Two forest elephants lifted their trunks to sniff us as we arrived. I ticked my first ever Hartlaub's Duck, then a beautiful Shining Blue Kingfisher and a Slender-snouted crocodile, looking very unthreatening with his long, thin jaw. Akaka's tented huts are sparse and clean, each with a shower and toilet. My three-person team cooked food that was French and superb, ather anachronistically given the jungle setting. A communal kitchen-cum- dining room overlooks the water - a Pelican was swimming right in front to greet us and a Malachite Kingfisher buzzed our boat. En route to Akaka common birds on the river included scores of Palmnut Vultures, Green-backed Herons, Hammerkops and various species of Kingfishers: Pied, Giant and Shining Blue. We counted 76 Jacana in an hour and over two days, saw eight African Finfoot, a bird rarely seen in South Africa. (It looks like a duck and swims like a duck, but it isn’t a
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Libreville, the commercial centre of Gabon.
Other countries create parks in their cities - we have created cities in a park. Our challenge is to plan on expanding Libreville with an emerald necklace around it of protected areas. ISSUE 2
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Gallivant | Gabon
duck!) At night the rainforest is filled with sound: big sounds, little ones, loud and soft, most new to my ears. In the dark of the forest I tried to tell the frogs' calls from the birds. Or were those weird sounds perhaps insects, monkeys or bush babies? Wonderful and exciting. It is truly Africa's Eden. Unlike many African parks, the forest elephants of Louango are solitary or in pairs – there are no herds. It was curious to see one with great long brown coloured tusks struggle through the muddy bank, each foot audibly sucked by mud as
it was withdrawn with difficulty before the beast plunged ever onward through even more mud. A buffalo also tried running from us, quite comically, with its legs in mud up to its under belly. As you drift quietly along the estuary, dense forest keeps opening up to large plains, still with water everywhere and brilliant green ground cover. In one single view at such an opening I saw a flock of 31 Pelicans, a pair of elephants, Great and Cattle Egrets, a hovering Pied Kingfisher, three African Darters, a flock of about 40 White-faced Whistling ducks and a Nile Crocodile
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Preservation with eco-tourism will always be a tough battle. At least Gabon has a plan, a very good place to start. observing it all from the bank while two buffalo struggled through the mud. We stopped floating down the estuary soon after, tied up the boat and took a walk through the forest for an hour, believing mistakenly that we were going ‘to the sea’ whereas we were just going ‘to see’. English is a problem in Gabon, although the President is com-
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mitted to changing the national language from French to English. We saw three different kinds of monkeys and two species of buck, an ordinary duiker and the Sitatunga, a large and striking antelope much like a kudu. Some very special hornbills haunt the trees, including the big Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill and the Piping Hornbill (“Peeping Hornbill”, my guide kept chanting). We saw a huge Great Blue Turaco and about 40 African Skimmers on a sandbank with a dozen Royal Terns plus a few White Fronted Plovers. Near Louango Lodge two hippo in the lagoon eyed us warily from about 200 metres away where they were bathing in the sea. But it's not just about the birds or the trees, elephants, crocodiles, buffaloes or the like. It is the whole magnificent rainforest that inspires wonder. Preservation with eco-tourism will always be a tough battle. At least Gabon has a plan, a very good place to start. President Ali Bongo and the good Professor White deserve the conservation world's support in their admirable endeavours.
PHOTOGRAPHS wikipedia/panoramio/hotelduparc-pog.com
The seafront is undoubtedly the greatest tourist attraction asset in Libreville, Gabon.
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Business Nomad | E-Commerce
WEST AFRICA WELCOMES E-COMMERCE WITH OPEN ARMS
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How did West Africans transmogrify from technology skeptics to ecommerce enthusiasts? Nomad Africa’s PAUL ADEPOJU researched deeply to provide an answer.
-commerce store Jumia Nigeria, West Africa has won the Best Retail Launch of the Year award at the World Retail Congress, making it the first African company to win the award. The site is one of the most visited in Nigeria, a nation that only joined the comity of nations with mobile communications about ten years ago. Looking back at the early days of communications in the most populous African nation, one cannot help but ask how the nation moved from using technology as a means of communication to using communication technology as a platform for the nation’s multibillion dollar e-commerce sector. E-commerce is no longer a foreign concept, it has become localized in West Africa – everything from clothes, shoes, books, phones, electronics, bus and event tickets to groceries can now be sold and bought online. E-commerce businesses are everywhere, yet many are springing up daily. From big ones like Jumia and Konga to smaller ones like Buyology that are struggling to gain attention, West Africans, just like East Africans and Egyptians and Moroccans and the rest of Africa now love to shop online. Chibuike Alagboso is a technology expert who believes e-commerce, though at an advanced stage in West Africa can still become bigger.
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E-commerce is no longer a foreign concept, it has become localized in West Africa – everything from clothes, shoes, books, phones, electronics, bus and event tickets to groceries can now be sold and bought online.
PHOTOGRAPHS Africanfashion/Michelle Okafor
“I don’t think we’ve scratched the surface yet as far as ecommerce is concerned. The sector could be bigger than it currently is,” he said. He noted that as long as some products are being sold in shops and not online, there will be more avenues for new investors to venture into e-commerce. “The popular e-commerce websites in the region are the ones that are selling general products and merchandise. There is nothing phenomenal and creative about selling goods online; many shops do it outside Africa. But it is innovative here and they are successful,” he said. In addition to online sale of general products, the sub-region is also recording an increase in the number of dedicated websites that offer specific products for sale. One of such sites is Drinks.ng (where you can buy all types of assorted drinks and liquor online) was founded by Lanre Akinlagun. In an exclusive chat, he said he decided to start selling drinks online following a personal experience. “A friend got married and he had explained to me the difficulties of buying drinks in Nigeria for his wedding, this planted a seed and I decided to explore the situation more,” he said. On the current status of the industry in West Africa, he said online business owners are willing to take on the numerous challenges due to the availability of large markets. He described West Africa as a very big market in need of more goods and services. “West Africa is a very big market and we are in need of a lot of goods and services to satisfy our ever growing appetite. The good thing is in knowing there is a market out there for us to reach, people screaming for our service, it’s just legit for us to continue expanding our reach” Akinlagun said. In Ghana, the Meltwater Entrepreneurial School of Technology (MEST) and the MEST Incubator that provide training, investment and mentoring for aspiring Ghanaian software entrepreneurs with the goal of creating globally successful companies that create wealth and jobs locally in Africa, is also
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Lanre Akinlagun
Vytas Paukštys, CEO of Eskimi
Tunde Kehinde, CEO of Jumia Nigeria
West Africa is a very big market and we are in need of a lot of goods and services to satisfy our ever growing appetite. The good thing is in knowing there is a market out there for us to reach, people screaming for our service, it’s just legit for us to continue expanding our reach
“
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co-founder and CEO of Jumia Nigeria said could be ten times bigger. On the future of the sector, he said the next phase is specialization and is already happening with platforms like Drinks.ng that only sells drinks. “The market is very big and I think there is still enough market for people to succeed. As many are coming up, I see people will begin to focus on specific categories – whether it’s clothing, books or phones. I see that happening soon,” Tunde Kehinde said.
I will say Nigeria is probably the fastest, South Africa is more advanced in terms of digital media and payment, but Nigeria is the most aggressive market we’ve seen. It is of course the largest market ISSUE 2
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recording similar successes. It is responsible for MPower, Dropifi, SayaMobile and several others that have been featured on CNN, Financial Times, TechCrunch and several other international platforms. It said it is creating businesses that can compete on the global scene. “MEST aims to establish a generation of software entrepreneurs who inspire generations to follow in their footsteps. Our geographic focus is currently on Accra, Ghana, but we hope that a sense of pride and hope will ripple across the African continent and encourage similar initiatives everywhere. It is our desire that the companies launched through the MEST program will inspire a future prosperous technology industry in Africa,” he said. In Cameroun, the West African nation is also opening up to e-commerce. Acha Nelson, CEO and co-founder of QuickTicket, the nation’s first online bus ticket service said the country can trail the blaze in Africa and can compete with Kenya, Nigeria and South Africa. “I am confident it will explode, internationally. I am sure in five years Cameroonians will dominate the technology market in Africa. If I was an investor, the one place I will put my money, will be Cameroon,” Nelson said. Out of all the markets in West Africa, Nigeria is leading in ecommerce which according to Vytas Paukštys, chief executive officer (CEO) of Eskimi, Nigeria’s largest mobile social network, is as a result of the size and aggressive nature of the market. “I will say Nigeria is probably the fastest, South Africa is more advanced in terms of digital media and payment, but Nigeria is the most aggressive market we’ve seen. It is of course the largest market,” he said. While future of e-commerce looks bright in West Africa, already existing platforms have been able to overcome the trust barricade that kept many West Africans away from shopping online. This has flung the door wide open for everyone interested in a piece of the enormous market which Tunde Kehinde,
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Art on display at the Bushfire Festival, Swaziland. The annual multi-disciplinary festival contributes a fair chunk to tourism in the small mountain Kingdom.
THE ART OF
Swaziland Beautiful rolling green hills, tropical palm trees, frequent cattle in the road, laughing children waving with both hands – these are my fond and eclectic memories of Swaziland says Nomad Africa’s REBECCA BAM. She explores the ancient arts of Swaziland to reveal more.
T
Hand-blown glass elephants at Ngwenya Glass Factory.
he roads had potholes, the buildings were somewhat derelict, but the inhabitants were some of the friendliest, most hospitable people I have ever come across. The weekend at The Royal Swazi Spa was, needless to say, heaps of hedonistic fun. But back to Swaziland itself. It is a country rich in culture and steeped in fascinating history. According to tradition, the original followers of the present Dlamini royal house of the Swazi nation migrated south before the 16th century to what is now called Mozambique. As result of a series of skirmishes with locals, the Ngwane (as they then called themselves), settled in northern Zululand in around 1750. But pursued by a growing Zulu strength, the Ngwane had to move north in the 1810s and 1820s. Under King Sobhuza I, they established themselves in the heartland of modern Swaziland, conquering and incorporating many long-established, independent chiefdoms, whose descendants also make up much of the modern Swazi nation. The art and craft outlets and traditional markets of Swaziland are undoubtedly one of the Kingdom's greatest attractions. Whether wanting a souvenir of an African holiday, a key decorative feature for a living room or office, or maybe a special present for a love one back home, hours can be spent at
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Swaziland's handcraft industry. This industry broadly falls into the two of categories of formal and informal. It is a major tourist attraction and many organisations are actively involved in promoting both the craft and tourism industries. One of these is the Swaziland Trading House (STH), an initiative by the Ministry of Enterprise and Employment (jointly funded by the Swaziland Government and the WK Kellogg Foundation) for enterprise development and employment creation through the development of cultural industries. Cultural industries such as handcrafts have been identified among the key industries with export potential and mainly benefit rural women and the youth. However, this has been undermined by serious challenges, including a lack of appreciation of the potential their craft have to change their economic status and livelihoods. One of the aims of the STH is to provide marketing infrastructure by setting up retail outlets in strategic markets and hence moving the craft producer up the value chain. The rationale is to prioritise handcraft centres on the ability of export-ready craft to generate sustainable job opportunities in rural areas specifically as a means of addressing unemployment, poverty and the effects of HIV and AIDS. Through a process phase-wise growth, the services of the
Beautiful Baskets from Swaziland.
Swaziland Trading House will diversify to other areas with similar potential such as value-added agricultural products, leather products, cotton garments, furnishings and made-ups, wooden products, services and imports. The informal crafts group mainly comprises of rural Swazis who produce traditional items, which include baskets, carvings and clay pots. Several thousand people, mostly women, rely on handcraft activities to earn incomes. Many of them are selfemployed and although they possess little business acumen or back-up systems, they receive assistance from various organisations. This includes the provision of raw materials, training to upgrade and perfect standards, identifying and penetrating suitable markets and promoting the goods. Craft items are sold to export markets, available in local shops and are also widely sold at markets and along the roadsides. These vendors and their stalls are popular tourist attractions. The Swazis also produce lovely carvings in soapstone and wood, which depict various animals and people. Swaziland's formal handcraft industry is well established and operates within professionally structured business parameters with proper infrastructure and administration. This sector produces a wide diversity of goods, including hand-woven and knitted fabrics, tapestries, screen printed items, jewellery, ornamental candles and glassware.
Craft oriented operations comprise a key sector of the economy, producing a diversity of goods for local and export markets while providing employment and generating incomes. Says Nokwazi Mabila, Product Development Executive at STH: “I guess all crafts started many generations ago when our ancestors carved, weaved or moulded whatever utensil they needed. As such, all craft in that time was purely for utilitarian purposes. These skills were passed from one generation to the next through a family apprenticeship system. Materials used must've been natural inputs readily available within those communities.” “Its development however is another story. Trade and intermarriages between communities have played a major role in the exchange of skills and designs. This involved not only its function, but also size and finishes became a priority. I would venture to say that our forefathers at this point had alternatives. So not only function, but form became important.” She goes on to say that the invention of money also meant skills were traded and the client’s wants and needs took priority over historical function. “Today we use these once utilitarian objects as decoration and objects of art. Interestingly enough, in my day-to-day dealings, I'm still confronted by the same question: what takes priority? Our traditions or market demands?” She says that three skills still dominate the crafts industry
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PHOTOGRAPHS Rebecca Bam/Picasaweb/Carterkate blogsport/Swazicandles.com
Ezulwini Valley, Swaziland: Nokwazi was a very helpful and friendly vendor who sold me several items.
in Swaziland today: weaving, pottery and carving. In weaving two grasses are normally used; lutindzi (a seasonal mountain grass) and baskets dominate this trade. “Women also weave the most beautiful baskets from sisal fibre,” she adds. Mats in all sizes and baskets for every use are produced. One type of basket work is so closely woven it will store liquids; the basket itself absorbing some of the fluid and keeping the contents cool by evaporation. Also manufactured are wooden sculptures, painstaking soapstone carvings, glassware, mohair, tapestries, imaginative pottery and silk-screened batiks and clothing present an array of colours, textures and designs. Nokwazi says the most buyers are from South Africa regionally and from Germany internationally. Swazi craft is available not only in Swaziland but also South Africa, which is the largest importer of Swazi craft in the region. “We usually ship our merchandise through DHL or inter-freight internationally.” Women dominate the industry with most men carving only (women also carve). “Of note is that most of these crafters are old. There is little skills transfer to the younger generation so it would almost look like a dying skill and this is something we are trying to rectify through training programmes.” Despite this, Swazi crafts are hardly promoted in schools and the only influence that students get is from their mothers and grandparents who still actively work with craft.
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She is confident though that the industry can one day function independently in its own right. “Personally, I would like to the see the day when the craft sector is no longer a by-product of cultural activity or a value add to tourism attractions, but an economic sector that has a complete production and supply value chain.” She says that unlike in other industries, in the handicraft industry , the crafter - who is at the bottom of the chain - makes the least. “Sometimes by the time that piece reaches the final consumer at a sale price of R500, the crafter will have only made R50 so it would appear that the middle man benefits the most.” She says she’s not sure how other projects are funded but at inception, STH was jointly funded by the W. K. Kellogg Foundation. “We've been partly funded by agencies such as the Commonwealth Secretariat, Technoserve and the United Nations. In terms of proliferation, artists and craftsmen are found in every corner of the country. The road through Ezulwini has, however, become the centre of the Swazi craft industry with numerous outlets and small markets on either side of the road. The Manzini Market and emerging outlets on the road to Siteki and Lavumisa are some of the other venues to choose from. There is much room for expansion in the handcraft sector, particularly for the players in the informal category. As mentioned, these are mainly self-employed women who often pos-
Craft market - one can purchase giraffes in all sizes.
Swazi Candles - Unique African Candles The highly decorative Swazi Candles are hand-made in the small African Kingdom of Swaziland using the age-old technique "millefiore".
Paintings, pictures, murals, mosaics and all kinds of art were also for sale.
sess little business knowledge and are hampered by a lack of contacts. They have to rely on passing trade and tourists who buy from roadside stalls and small shops. Further, due to lack of training, their goods may not meet international market requirements and, in any case, they cannot individually produce suďŹƒcient quantities to interest bulk buyers. In addition to the STH, there are other organisations, such as Tintsaba Craft in northern Swaziland, which have taken the initiative by employing rural women who work at home producing items such as traditional baskets. They are supplied with materials, thus eliminating the need to invest their muchneeded cash and also receive the training that ensures their produced goods meet international standards. Collectively, these women can craft suďŹƒcient quantities to meet the needs
The art and craft outlets and traditional markets of Swaziland are undoubtedly one of the Kingdom's greatest attractions. of international buyers, with whom their mentors deal. Hopefully, in time, the industry will take its rightful place in the economy with any trace of exploitation eradicated.
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Gallivant | Kalahari
Kalahari THE PlacE of HEaling
PHOTOGRAPHS Our Divine Medicine/Travelforwildlife.com
By: Jo Kromberg
Above: Old ways of making jewelry and bone burning Kalahari.
“There are only a few places in the world where the mere mention of a name is enough to unlock a wealth of memories and an unknown yearning in anyone who knows and appreciates it. The Kalahari is such a place.” - J. du P. Bothma, 1998
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Gallivant | Kalahari
y heart has been replaced by a hysterical, maniacal thumping ball beneath my solar plexus, looking for the closest exit. “Is it going to be like this for the entire flight?” The pilot doesn’t hear me above the noise so I’m forced to repeat these, what could very well be my last words. He flashes a brilliant smile at me as though he’s about to announce that I am this week’s lucky lotto winner. “No! We’re climbing to get out of the wind. As soon as we’re above 7 000 feet it’ll be fine!” He exchanges a side-long glance with his co-pilot and they share a mischievous smile at my intense consternation of being thrown around the Kalahari sky like an unhinged cartoon character. Luckily, the flight on lasts only for 30 minutes and after everything is said and done, the pilots do very well, considering the strength of the wind. We land safely and I extend a shaky hand to Tiaan, my co-host at Grasslands Safari Lodge, who swiftly drives me to the lodge and to a cold beer. The lodge is family owned and run and the emphasis is on relaxation, comfort, home cooking and hospitality. I find my bearings and take a good look at my surroundings. According to http://www.eyesonafrica.net/african-safari-botswana/kalahari-safari.htm, few place names are as evocative as the Kalahari. This misspelt Anglicism has
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come to represent the vastness of Africa's outback with all the romantic undertones of nomadic hunter-gatherers, lions and golden grasslands gently waving under the canopy of a limitless blue sky. The Kalahari Desert is in Southern Africa and extends some 900 000 square kilometres; covering 84% of Botwana and sections of Namibia and South Africa. The surrounding Kalahari Basin of 2 500 000 square kilometres, extends farther in to Botwana, Namibia and South Africa and infringes on parts of Angola, Zambia and Zimbabwe. 'Desert', however, is a misnomer: its earliest travellers defined it as a 'thirstland'. Most of the Kalahari (or Kgalagadi, which is its Setswana name) is covered with vegetation, including stunted thorn and scrub bush, trees and grasslands. In winter (June, July and August) the Kalahari takes on varying hues of white gold. Because August and September are also the windy months, the dust turns the sun into a molten mass of reds, oranges and pink as it sets and rises over the endless dunes and forlorn wavy grasslands. With little more than 100 to 200mm of rainfall per year, the fauna and flora in the Kalahari wages a daily struggle for survival. Grasslands, my home from home, is my first stop in this breathtakingly dry paradise. I’m shown to my rustic thatched and stone chalet with its aroma of nature and the cool interior hits me like welcome splash of cold water. The chalet has been decorated with deference to its surrounds and is beautifully balanced in terms of luxury and natural materials used. I decline the game drive offer in favour of spending the afternoon enveloped in the warm sunshine beating down on the primordial veldt. Later, upon her return from a Bushmen walk with guests, I meet the very charming and knowledgeable Neeltjie, Tiaan’s wife and co-manager of Grasslands. Neeltjie grew up in the area and speaks fluent San, the unique and (to a Westerner’s ear) intriguingly impenetrable click language of the Bushman. During sundowner drinks around the fire, we share bush stories, watching kudu, eland, duiker and even a jackal having a drink at the watering hole within a few metres from where we are sitting. Suddenly the Canadian sitting opposite me jumps sky high. “What was that?” The high-pitched, trembling voice is incongruent with his sturdy stature outfitted in all ‘Out of Africa’ gear, completed with a Safari hat. We look at him incredulously. “That’s a lion roaring,” explains Neeltjie. “But is it close? It sounds so close,” the nervous man giggles. “Don’t worry, sound travels very far here,” says
The dust turns the sun into a molten mass of reds, oranges and pinks as it sets and rises over the endless dunes and forlorn wavy grasslands. Neeltjie, winking at me. I sleep soundly that night, the beautiful lyrics of Gene Pitney haunting me as I drift off: “Something’s gotten hold of my hand, dragging my soul to a beautiful land. Something has invaded my nights, painting my sleep with a colour so bright ..." The following day Neeltjie explains to me that Grasslands still borders some of the big cattle farms in Botswana and that there has been some unhappiness between the farmers and game lodge management regarding the lions’ preference for beef .A solution to this is the subject of an entire feature article in a future issue of Nomad Africa. The pioneering project is backed by some of the biggest sustainable resource developers and custodians in the world so watch this space... After a delicious lunch, it’s time for a long siesta, after which we go for a walk with the Bushmen. We meet what seems to me the entire cast of the classic movie, The Gods must be Crazy and they take us foraging for food. “To us it looks like dry bush everywhere,” explains Neeltjie. “To them it’s a huge supermarket.” And so it is – we become increasingly astonished as they show us how to make rope from leaves; as well as plants, shrubs, roots and bark that can respectively be used to eat as snacks and vegetables, used as perfume and cure anything from menstrual cramps to recurring migraines. Neeltjie tells us that there are only about 18 000 of these golden-skinned, compactly built and guileless San people still left in the world. They are the only original inhabitants of the entire southern African region. But because they cannot understand the concepts of violence, aggression, deceit and subterfuge, they have been virtually decimated – first by the Khoi, then by central and West African migratory tribes and finally by the white colonists. Today, the only area left to them is the arid Kalahari. The San is a matriarchal cultural, with the women choosing the men they want and then setting them to work. (do not want to appear sexist, hence the lines deleted!)That night around the fire under a black sky, new moon and countless shining stars, we ruminate philosophically about definitions of civilisation and poverty. The San people certainly induce humbleness and a sense of stupid and superfluous clumsiness in all but the most jaded and arrogant cynic. They inadvertently put things in perspective, as does this whole wide land. After reluctant farewells the following day it’s off to my final Kalahari destination – the ominously named Deception Valley in the central Kalahari. Apparently the name is derived from the mirages observed over the pans – shimmering blue and white layers that resemble a body of water from a distance. The technical definition is an optical illusion in which atmospheric
refraction by a layer of hot air distorts or inverts reflections of distant objects. My hosts at the beautiful Deception Valley Lodge are Nadia, Jason, Wanda and Adriaan and between them, the other rangers and owners, they have about 65 years of experience in the hospitality and conservation industries. They certainly know what they’re doing, making guests feel completely at home and comfortable. Strangely enough, the ultra-luxurious five star lodge does not feel out of place in the bush. The owners built the lodge with their own hands over a prolonged period of time, making sure the environment wasn’t damaged in the process. One of the owners and his wife travelled all over Africa for years, collecting artefacts and the design and décor of the lodge reflects this superbly. It is a deeply authentic and knowledgeable confluence of all things African. The chalets are virtually palatial - double storey suites with lovingly selected furnishings and the finest linen; not to speak of the genuinely Victorian baths. I join Nadia on the veranda of the main building and she tells me there is only one rule – no walking after dark. The animals – including lion, leopard and cheetah – all roam free and this is actually their domain; we are only visitors. I quietly think that I don’t want to go from visitor to snack and am quite happy to adhere to this very sensible rule. The lodge offers game drives twice a day, night and day walks, as well as walks with the Bushmen. And the food – ah the food! I meet Onkiymetsi, the local epicurean magician, selftaught with additional training by the staff. As far as I’m concerned, a number of Michelin stars here won’t be out of place. The Oryx steak accompanied by in-season vegetables and the most divine mash potatoes I have ever sampled was inspirational. The following morning after a delicious English breakfast with all the trimmings, we are taken to the very, very exclusive manor house on the property. Recently completed, this location offers complete luxury and privacy for those who can afford it. You have your own butler, ranger and chef all to yourself and the place is reminiscent of an era in which time has been suspended forever. As the sun goes down that evening before dinner, I watch a lone duiker etched against the sunset from my window and a sense of sadness overwhelms me momentarily. This is my last night in this magnificent place. But then something else occurs to me almost simultaneously. So many people never get to see such beauty. If only they could come here and learn, listen, feel, and breathe in its beauty. If only they could experience the healing tranquillity the Kalahari has to offer.
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Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa, Mozambique.
MoZaMBiQUE
Hues of greens and blues
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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JO KROMBERG
ozambique. The very name conjures up images of exotic cocktails, flaming sunsets over glassy calm seas and diving into waters the colours of your most tranquil mood ever. Airlink flies me to Vilanculos in Mozambique from OR Tambo in Johannesburg on a lazy, late-winter afternoon and I land just after noon in the afternoon. Antonio, the Rani Resorts representative meets me and after about half an hour’s wait, we board a ‘caravan’ – a 12-seater aircraft on route to Bazarruto Is-
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land and my heavenly destination for the next two days, Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa. The weather is partly cloudy and only 23 degrees centigrade, but I can feel the humidity creeping up. The flight lasts only 15 minutes and beneath me the sea and coral reefs resemble a surrealist painting of beige, indigo, azure and pastel blues and greens. I am met with huge smiles all around at Bazarruto. Indigo Bay has an unpretentious island feel, but one is immediately aware of 5-star service, facilities and luxury. I’m shown to my room and given the lay of the land. The rooms are gorgeous – very spacious with mini-bar, air conditioning and amazing bath
Mozambique. The very name conjures up images of exotic cocktails, flaming sunsets over glassy calm seas and diving into waters the colours of your most tranquil mood ever.
One of the luxury 29 beach chalets at Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa, Mozambique.
products; indoor and outdoor shower with a sunken bath – and all with a view. Although the resort can accommodate 114 guests, it doesn’t feel like a big resort. Instead of the rooms being on top of each other, they are separate units, spread out and intimate. I have lunch at Club Naval overlooking the sea with an appropriate creamy Pina Colada accompanied by a palate-pleasing duck and feta salad for starters and mackerel for the main. I spend the rest of the afternoon in a stupor, swaying in my hammock reading, half in and out of sleep, with the softly rolling baby waves two metres from me under the rustle of the palms above me. The sun goes down over the Indian Ocean in a blaze of oranges, followed by reds then pinks and I reluctantly embark on the massive five metre trek to my villa for a steaming, fragrant bath by candlelight, watching the last light fade over the sea from my bath. Dinner comprises of a fish starter - minced mussel and line fish in a herb crust with salad and the main course is pork loin, served on the patio restaurant by candlelight whilst soft jazz plays in background. After my languid meal and excellent house wine (all food, local beer, wine and spirits, as well as certain activities, are included in the price), I saunter back to my villa. There is no moon so for a while I sit on the beach in reverie; the only sounds are the crickets, soft lapping of the water and my only company is the Milky Way with its gazillion stars in the galaxy. There is not a breath of wind. This visceral feeling is unparalleled. I feel strangely untouched by the world so far, far away and at peace, completely alone under this shiny, big black open sky with all its twinkles. I creep in under my wonderful duvet with the soft
waves singing me to sleep. After breakfast the next morning, it’s off to Paradise Island, about a 15-minute boat ride away. The boat anchors close to the island for snorkelling. The water is like blue, shiny silk and the visibility is all the way down - about six metres, where little blue and yellow fish cavort among jellyfish. A beach barbeque awaits after all this activity. While the other guests frolic in the warm water, a guide takes me to see the ruins of the only hotel on the island. It could accommodate more than 300 people once upon a time and now stands empty and silent - a concrete corpse silently gazing out over the azure water. It is eerie. After a brisk and hot 20 minute walk back, it’s time for a delicious lunch of sosaties, fresh prawns and the best potato salad ever. The conversation is interesting and lively as well. Back on terra firma later that afternoon, it is almost immediately back to messing about in boats again. We go for a short sundowner cruise on a traditional dhow and much high-jinx ensues, thanks to a hilariously funny couple from Malawi. The sun sinks lazily in a million orange blazes over the calm ocean and all is right with the world. Dinner that evening is served at Club Naval and candles and tiki torches are set up all around the beach at the water’s edge. Happy laughter emanates from every table.... Enter a sumptuous buffet of chicken, fish and oxtail; as well as crayfish pasta as well as carbonara. The night enfolds me like a blanket. The following morning I am treated to heavenly neck, back and shoulder massage by Rizia, the Spa manager. The Spa is spectacularly located with a breath-taking view. The longer you stay at Indigo Bay, the more you realise that there is - and should only be joy to be had in this world. I was tense when I got here. You know, the normal run of the mill stress kind of tense. And like a caterpillar transforming, I felt myself releasing; going with the flow, the people, the blue sky, the sea and the laughter. Cascading happily backwards to where I once was in my life - in the moment (not sure what is being said here, but needs to be reworded to make it clear what the meaning is). The only thing I didn’t have time to do at Indigo Bay is nothing. And that is why I shall return - to do nothing at all. And I can't wait.
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The Calabar Carnival that started nine years ago in Cross River state, Nigeria in West Africa has grown to be Africa’s biggest street party.
Gallivant | Top Destinations
CALABAR carnival
ainT no SToPPing US Story: Paul Adepoju | Photos: John Mensah
Who could ever believe that a carnival that is not held in Johannesburg, Nairobi, Lagos, Cairo or Accra could become the continent’s biggest street party with unimaginable international participation?
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ine years ago, a good looking governor had vision; he wanted to make his state the hub for tourism and hospitality in Nigeria and in Africa. Today, the consensus is that he has been able to achieve it. His name is Donald Duke. During his two terms as the governor of Cross River state, Nigeria in West Africa, he made tourism his goal by piloting the $400 million TINAPA Resort project, Obudu International Mountain Race and the Calabar Carnival which has grown to be Africa’s biggest street party. The festival kicks off on December 1st of every year and runs throughout the month. It is designed around cultural mosaic of Nigeria, West Africa and entertains Africa and the rest of the world. Osima-Dokubo is a member of the organizing committee says the goal of the organizers of the carnival every year is to include “more aspects of local heritage and culture and at the same time strengthen the capacity of the locals to participate in an economically beneficial way.” Throughout the month of December, various events are organized by the organizers. They include contests among the various carnival bands which include Seagull, Passion 4, Masta Blasta, Bayside and Freedom. Last year’s competition was won by the Masta Blasta band. It also features live stage performances by local and international artistes. The list of past performers includes Wyclef Jean, Akon, Don Moen, Lucky Dube, Fat Joe, Kirk Franklin, Young Jeezy, Nelly and several others across various genres. More activities such as a boat regatta, Christmas Village, traditional dances, Ekpe Festival attract tourists from various locations
on the planet to the city. Beautiful ladies also battle for the prestigious Carnival Calabar Queen Beauty Pageant. “This is a charity event organized by the Cross River State Carnival Commission in collaboration with MACA (Mothers against Child Abandonment) whose primary objective is to preserve the lives of vulnerable mothers and children. MACA has as shelter called the Refuge which is a home for pregnant teenage girls at risk. It was initiated by the wife of the Governor of Cross River State, Nigeria, Mrs. Obioma Liyel-Imoke, who is passionate about the plight of these vulnerable people and believes that every unborn child has a right to live,” says the organizers. The goal is to encourage and educate young women to uphold the virtue of abstinence from pre-marital sex and preserving the sanctity of womanhood. “The queen is a role model for budding young women faced with the daily pressures of society and their peers. All proceeds from the Grand Finale Dinner go to support the refuges, the upkeep of vulnerable girls and the rescue of abandoned babies.” Organizers have also incorporated several other activities that contribute positively to the society into the Carnival Calabar; one of such is the Essay and Short Story Writing Competition sponsored by Golden Penny, a pasta brand and subsidiary of Dangote group of companies owned by Aliko Dangote, the richest black man on the planet. The competition is in various categories for tertiary institutions and secondary schools. Many who have participated in the carnival see it as a great promotion for tourism in Africa and provides various forms of relaxation for participants.
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A participant at the Calabar carnival 2012 event in a Masta Blasta band costume.
“We work from January till December; we barely rest. But attending the carnival with my family gives us the relaxation we so much need,” says Mr. Akande Akinola. “I travel every year with my family and many of my friends are doing the same. It is good for the kids because they get to learn more about Africa. ”The economic gain for the host city is impressive. During the period, hotels are overbooked by tourists, relaxation centers are full and commercial activities are on the increase. “December period is the best business season here in Calabar, Cross River State, Nigeria, West Africa. Many traders come from distant and nearby West African cities to make money. We are happy that for almost ten years the carnival is growing and more people are coming to participate,” says Funmi Aihmaku who sells memorabilia in Calabar during the festival. While unveiling this year’s carnival, Liyel Imoke, governor of
Cross River state said the carnival is now an exportable brand. “Carnival Calabar can be identified internationally and exported around the world. It has become a brand that everyone has identified because it is about the people, so with or without government behind it, it has become an international brand.” "After Nollywood, Carnival Calabar is the highest brand in Africa and it is unique because unlike others, it is designed, programmed and costumed through passion and creativity. ”The theme of this year’s carnival is ‘Ain’t No Stopping Us’. It would cover a total of 12 kilometers and the various bands would be joined by a band from Brazil according to Karen Sauza, representative of OCIC and sponsor of the Brazilian Samba team of 2012 Carnival Calabar.
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Sylvester lives in a township called Alexandra in Johannesburg, South Africa. Becoming a Sangoma wasn't a choice for him, his ancestors pushed him into it, it was a calling.
Feature | African Medicine
AFRICAN MEDICINE How Effective? Just as one would see an optometrist for problems with vision or an oncologist for treating cancer, so it is the same with traditional healers. Feature by Heather Balouza
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was invited by Xolani Zwane, a friend and a traditional healer, to his wife’s homecoming ceremony, after which, she would be integrated in to her Zulu culture as a fully recognised traditional healer. Although I had seen a few tourist-orientated shows of Zulu dancing, had had some exposure to rural African life and attended a number of festivities, I had never witnessed a private traditional ceremony. As such, I felt exceptionally honoured as a white person to be invited to this sacred occasion. I watched enthralled by the processes, but was saddened that I was totally ignorant of the traditions and the significance of the events taking place throughout the ceremony. The event was a blaze of colour, traditional dress, observances of cultural customs and practices, dancing, celebrations, acknowledgements and respect of and deference to their ancestors and elders, all set against the throbbing rhythmic beating of African drums. The initiation ended with the pulse-stirring thumping and stomping of Zulu warriors, women and children all dancing to a primeval beat. Attired in traditional dress, including their shields, spears, skins, intricate beadwork and musical anklets, it was a most impressive and fitting end to the homecoming ceremony. To many who still view Africa as a ‘Dark Continent’, traditional healing is dismissed as a form of witchcraft which is steeped in superstition and performed and supported by ignorant people who have not evolved as a civilization. Viewed by sceptics as barbaric, scorned as satanic or considered an evil practice, it is little understood in the so-called enlightened age. Instead, today people are willing to flock to faith healers and charismatic outreaches that promise to heal the sick and perform miracles that will make the blind to see, the deaf to hear and the lame to walk. Whilst traditional healers can cure health problems, they do not profess to perform any miracles. Traditional healing has been around since the start of mankind and is practiced in various forms across Africa. Its rituals and customs have remained unchanged throughout the centuries. In other countries, it can be likened to many ancient practices still in use today, such as acupuncture, homeopathy, reflexology and Zen meditation. Xolani (49) explains what traditional healing really is and what it is not. Born at Ntumeni, Eshowe, a town in the province of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, he became a traditional healer (also known as a sangoma) in 1989. Prior to that, Xolani was studying at the University of Zululand towards his BPed, a teaching degree, with biology as his major. He received a visitation from his deceased grandmother who had raised him since a small child after his mother had abandoned him. During her lifetime, his grandmother had been called to be a traditional healer, but had been supressed and was not allowed to follow her calling. In her after life, the ancestors had told her she could still execute her calling via someone living and she had chosen Xolani. During her visitation, she told him that he would meet many people, go to a number of different places and his life would be evergreen when he became a traditional healer. Not fully convinced that this was the path he wanted to follow, he hesitated and immediately became completely blind. His blindness lasted six months and he took this as a sign that his future was in traditional healing and
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To many who still view Africa as a ‘Dark Continent’, traditional healing is dismissed as a form of witchcraft which is steeped in superstition and performed and supported by ignorant people who have not evolved as a civilization. having been called, he had no choice to do otherwise. He dropped out of university and went to a traditional healer and was washed in Nomzotho, a special preparation of liquid for his journey forward. When his eyes were washed with the foam of the Nomzotho, his sight was fully restored 30 minutes later. “Traditional healing is not a career, it’s an influence on one’s life by one’s ancestral spirits,” Xolani said. “Our ancestors guide and direct us and if we do not practice the calling, it will create a lot of negative outcomes and play havoc in your life.” Xolani further explained that the ancestors supply the powers and render the healing hands – not the living traditional healer. “The ancestor will tell me what is wrong with a client and what they need to do to correct a situation in their life. Yes, we use various
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Far Left: Sangomas in traditional dress. Left: Phumzile Zwane undergoing her homecoming ceremony as a traditional healer.
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Traditional healing is not a career, it’s an influence on one’s life by one’s ancestral spirits
methods to help the ancestors to speak to us, some of which include throwing the bones (bones include stones, money, sea shells and nut shells) and interpreting their formation, burning incense and candles, using herbs, spices and specific plants – there are a number of resources used during our consultation with a client. But ultimately, it is the ancestor’s spirit that guides, leads and advises the traditional healer throughout the process.” Contrary to popular belief, a traditional healer is a specialist in certain areas and not a master of everything. “The speciality is influenced by one’s ancestor and life’s path. Just as one would see an optometrist for vision problems or an oncologist for treating cancer, so it is the same with traditional healers. For example, some will specialise in treating specific ailments; others specialise in relationships. Those that try to do all fields are generally pretenders. Our lady traditional healers are more advanced in dealing with and resolving relationship problems, one of the most common reasons people seek out the help of a traditional healer. Other cases are health-related, but consultations can range from lifting a curse on a family, to bringing success and prosperity, finding a wife/husband, helping a couple to conceive a child or removing life-threatening evil forces surrounding them. Also important is helping a client connect with their ancestors, often referred to as guiding lights, spirit guides or guardian angels in other cultures.” There is no formal training prior to becoming a traditional healer because the ancestors do all the actual work and channel their energy and wisdom through the healer. Whilst some practices vary between different cultures, the one focused on here is the traditional Zulu processes and rituals that an initiate will perform and undergo. Firstly, an initiate will apply a red mud over their entire body, which symbolises the rising of the ancestor’s spirit and the spirit’s fusion with the initiate’s life.
He or she will also walk barefoot to connect with the risen ancestor’s spirit. Approximately a month later, a goat is slaughtered to introduce the initiate to the spiritual land, known as Umqwambo. Another two goats are slaughtered shortly after this to signify the rising of the ancestral spirit and that this spirit will rise free of any previous problems. The red mud is then washed off and the initiate must drink the blood of the goat to bring the spirit alive in him or her. After this ceremony, another goat and a cow are slaughtered during the homecoming ceremony. This ceremony acknowledges and celebrates the homecoming of the ancestral spirit and the emergence of the initiate in to a fully practicing traditional healer. The homecoming celebration takes on the form of a very festive event amid the ancestors, family, elders and community members. Xolani notes, “African herbs do an equal, if not better job than over-the-counter drugs, prescription medication. In fact, they treat the cause of the problem at its root and not only treat the symptoms. Many think that traditional healing is an African-only cultural practice and as such, merely applies to black people. This is simply not the case – traditional healers are white, Indian, coloured and even foreigners. One such example was the white German lady who was in training with me as an initiate. And clients themselves come from all ethnicities and walks of life. I think it fair to say that 95% of blacks use our services and remedies (known in Zulu as muti); of which 50% use them openly whilst the remainder try to hide their use for various reasons. Some of these include the perceptions about traditional healing being a satanic practice and as such, is against their religion or church’s beliefs. Others prefer to keep it concealed because of their race or our traditional healing therapies being at odds with their culture or system of beliefs. These are just some of the more common challenges. One of the biggest, however, is an expectation of being instantly healed or cured, even though most patients do not expect such results from an ordinary medical practitioner or specialist. Yes, traditional healers do, and can work wonders, but we are not miracle workers! Another challenge is the irregular income. A healer may have a large number of clients one week, but only one, two or even none the next, so finances are never assured because they constantly fluctuate. My answer to this is to encourage all traditional healers to use their other talents to support their calling. If they are a bricklayer, build houses, if an electrician, install plugs and power points. I, for example, am a proud Zulu traditionalist and am busy producing a documentary on the cultures and challenges facing the Zulu nation as a whole. As the modern world and its advancing technology continues to take hold, the Zulu culture itself is under attack – not because our customs and rituals are in question, but because the younger
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PHOTOGRAPHS Sasangoma/Pennyhaw/Afrohaut
Many think that traditional healing is an African-only cultural practice and as such, merely applies to black people. This is simply not the case – traditional healers are white, Indian, coloured and even foreigners.
A white Twasa (Sangoma apprentice).
members of our culture are turning their backs on our ancient Zulu traditions. These days, many want to rather embrace the 21st century and a Westernised way of life. Once this documentary is complete, I hope to be able to use the subsequent exposure to highlight the importance of staying true to one’s roots, encourage our younger generation to think twice before moving away from and abandoning their rich Zulu heritage and to engender a better understanding of our customs and traditions that are all steeped in origins so ancient that they date back to the beginning of mankind.” Xolani has almost completed the additional surgery he is constructing for his wife, Phumzile, to practice from. The couple live with six sons on their family land in Nzalabantu in Mbonambi, which is in the Zululand region of KwaZulu-Natal’s province. “Healing is in my blood,” states Xolani. “So much so that I even trained as a paramedic. Although I passed and received my diploma, I haven’t been able to practice this profession because my calling as a traditional healer has been so clear. To me, it is the noblest of callings. To be able to help people, heal them, assist them to prosper and set them on a path towards total fulfilment in their lives is a reward of which there is no calculable fee. I have assisted people who were on the brink of retrenchment to keep their jobs and thus, continue to support their families. I have lifted the suffering of those who experienced constant migraines. They no longer have migraines and better still, not even headaches! I aim to devote the rest of my life to listening to my ancestors and helping anyone in need of my services. I thank, acknowledge and pay homage to my ancestors, family, community, clients and above all, my Creator.”
Michelle Ok
HoW iT all STarT
Michelle Okafor has a background in tourism. On a trip to Nigeria in 2009 she was so taken with the colorful African wax prints that she bought a few to make her own outfits. It wasn’t until 2012 though that she took the plunge into the world of fashion design and today Michelle Okafor African Designs is quickly becoming the urban African fashion label to be seen in. So what exactly is African wax print? Nomad Africa’s LISA HACK interviewed her to reveal more. 88 | NOMADAFRICAMAG.COM
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kafor
TED
Feature | African Fashion
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t’s easy to think that Michelle Okafor has been designing for decades. What with her ease of design banter, passion for material and determination to ensure that each of her clients is the best dressed woman around, you could be forgiven for not realizing this talented lady has only been in the fashion industry for little more than a year. It all started with her marriage. Michelle married a Nigerian man and when they ventured to West Africa on a family visit in 2009 she fell head-over-heels for the massive array of top quality materials and was completely taken with African wax prints and their vibrancy. It’s common for West African women to wear the prints every day, says Michelle. She bought a few fabrics for herself and brought them back with her to South Africa to make a few outfits for herself. The designs and patterns, Michelle reminisces, interested friends and family and received much positive feedback. It also meant they wanted their own exclusive outfits. That’s when Michelle’s business cogs kicked into gear and she realized that bringing Western African fabrics into South Africa – not as everyday wear but as occasion outfits - could be a lucrative exercise. Little did she realize just how popular her brand would be and how quickly it has grown in a mere 12 months. Michelle swiftly discovered that there is a demand for African print clothing and although the idea is modelled on the traditions of the Western African culture, Michelle Okafor’s designs are created with a modern twist to appeal to today’s urban woman. The selections of designs are limited with each design created to bring out the very best in individual wearers. African Wax Prints So what exactly is African wax print? Interestingly, these efferves-
cent dyed fabrics originally hailed from Indonesia. From there they would be exported to the Gold Coast and that is how they came to be spread over West Africa and later spill into Central Africa. As Africans personalized and customized the designs they spiraled in popularity and today the prints are primarily manufactured in Ghana and Nigeria where they tend to have staunch social, cultural and economic importance to Western Africans. The patterns are inclined to tell a story to the wearers. They represent proverbs, traditional African fables and poems. Even the colors tend to hold a sense of significance and certain hues represent certain social standings including tribal orientation, marital status and age. The palettes for these prints are bright and loud which makes Michelle Okafor’s elegant designs that much more creative and appealing. Michelle’s Background This driven and talented designer confesses to not having a background in fashion design when she started out. “I studied tourism in my hometown of Cape Town and worked in the tourism industry for about ten years. It was really the trip in 2009 to Nigeria that inspired me to go into the fashion field.” So it might be new to her and she admits to currently outsourcing sewing and design, but Michelle has since embarked on further education to gain the in-depth knowledge required to be a hands-on designer. She has already enrolled in a course for 2014 that will enable her to upscale her skills and allow her to be even more involved in her business. Ask her where she gets her inspiration from and you’ll hear the inflections of hunger in her tone as she talks about going through the latest designs, looking through images and keeping up to date with African fashion. She enjoys going through designs and pairing them with the African wax print fabric to form vibrant, colorful creations. The Design Process Her process begins with mocking up samples, doing a photo shoot and then
The patterns are inclined to tell a story to the wearers. They represent proverbs, traditional African fables and poems.
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I think it’s really about dressing people. People are excited when they visit the brand’s website and they want to schedule an appointment for an outfit for a special occasion like a wedding. It’s nice to be part of that process and make something that people are delighted to show off. I’ve received amazing feedback too from my clients. I love getting to help people feel special in their clothes.
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marketing the finished products. One of the unique selling features of the range is that it can be custom-made to a client’s taste. So if the client see something he or she likes but aren’t quite sure about the pattern or color, it’s no problem for Michelle and her team, they’re happy to accommodate the varying tastes of today’s stylish African women. And it’s as simple as going through the database of fabrics and choosing what you like as a client. If a client prefers to browse and feel the gorgeous fabrics of this niche range (and feeling the exquisite material is an absolute must!). Michelle Okafor’s African Design ranges are available at the monthly Collective Market in Wendywood, Johannesburg, South Africa. It’s a good opportunity to see the magic of these designs up close and have a chat with the designer herself. The Inspiration As for looking towards other African designers for motivation, Michelle speaks highly of fellow South African and award-winning designer Bongiwe Walaza and her abundance of knowledge and experience that Michelle is aspiring towards. On the commercial side, this new designer favors designs from Stone Cherry and Sun Goddess and while she looks forward to her prints sharing the same high status, she hopes her African prints will go above and beyond.
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Too many people doubt themselves these days. They question if they’re doing the right thing and if their brand is good enough. Entrepreneurs worry too much about what can go wrong. But I think we need to believe in ourselves a little bit more and if you just work hard at it and try every day, you will eventually succeed. But you need to have the right mindset to realize that things might not be great now, but they will get there.
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The Highlights Michelle finds it difficult to single out one favorite project or highlight to her career so far. Her pride, however, is tangible when she starts talking about her latest ventures, started as recently as June 2013. She branched out from clothing only to bags, shoes and accessories. Here African print pumps are clearly a pride and joy. Michelle sources the prints for the pumps and sends them off to her manufacturer in Durban where the magic happens. She’s found that some people may shy away from a full on African print outfit but the shoes add a sense of experimental pizazz to any ensemble. Her bags and bangles hail from Ghana and Michelle sings the praises of African craftsman. Not needing to reinvent the wheel, she says that she realizes that not everything has to be made in South Africa, but shared instead with the artists of the African nation. The Best Part Her favorite part of her new-found career? Michelle says: “I think it’s really about dressing people. People are excited when they visit the brand’s website and they want to schedule an appointment for an outfit for a special occasion like a wedding. It’s nice to be part of that process and make something that people are delighted to show off. I’ve received amazing feedback too from my clients. I love getting to help people feel special in their clothes.” The African wax prints are chosen by Michelle herself on her visits to the markets in Ghana and Nigeria. With a keen eye for what looks good and what will work she enjoys sifting through the designs and patterns and ensures that she uses only the best West African materials for her range. And having family in Ghana and Nigeria, she says, makes the trips that much more enjoyable.
The Future So where to from here from the astoundingly driven designer? Michelle says, “Growing the brand. I want to study fashion design and have enrolled for next year so that I can be more hands on with the brand. From there the ideas will flow and I will be able to create my own unique designs. They’re all in the head so it’s time to get them on paper and make them work. Establishing the brand is my main focus.” “I’ve had to learn very quickly with the fast growth in interest. Every weekend I’m seeing people who want something designing and it’s forced me to go a little faster. The passion is a major get-upand-go force. This is something completely different to what I’m used to and you need a lot of passion and enthusiasm to keep growing.” The Advice An aspiring and inspired designer herself, Michelle has these words of advice for other up and coming fashion enthusiasts: “Too many people doubt themselves these days. They question if they’re doing the right thing and if their brand is good enough. Entrepreneurs worry too much about what can go wrong. But I think we need to believe in ourselves a little bit more and if you just work hard at it and try every day, you will eventually succeed. But you need to have the right mindset to realize that things might not be great now, but they will get there.” So for Michelle Okafor, perseverance along with a strong support structure are key to her drive and growing success.
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GIVE YOUR
rElaTionSHiP A HOLIDAY By Heather Balouza
Nomad Life Style | Relationships
Once a couple believes their relationship is back on track and is no longer in danger of a separation, go on holiday! Spend quality time doing things together and rediscovering each other.
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he long-awaited holiday which you have sacrificed so much for during a hard year is just around the corner and you and your partner are looking forward to a break from the mundane stress and pressures of everyday working life. Visions of lazy days on the beach, sundowners around a pool, soothing massages at the spa and lingering dinners over candlelight beckon. It’s a time to unwind and relax, be re-energised and rejuvenated. A time to be self-indulgent, enjoy late nights and lie-ins and have all your needs met by a host of willing hospitality staff whose prime concern is to ensure that you have an enjoyable stay. Sometimes such wonderful visions can fade like mist under a hot African sun and the much-anticipated holiday can quickly turn in to a relationship quagmire. Away from their normal day-to-day routine, couples instead often find themselves at loggerheads, bickering about trivial issues or disagreeing about most things - even a simple decision about how to spend the day. One partner may want to see the local attractions; the other will just want to lounge around the pool under an umbrella and read a book. Suddenly, disagreements, ranging in severity from mild to major, seem to be a standard norm of every vacation day. Why is this and why is the ideal holiday not living up to the high expectations one had when planning the trip? According to relationship gurus, one reason is when partners are away from their normal routine, pre-existing problems in a relationship come to the fore. Camouflaged by a routine work and home life, relationship issues are more likely to be brushed under the carpet, tolerated or ignored. Place the partners in another environment away from their routine and viola – the new setting can act as a catalyst that exposes the flaws and cracks in a relationship. Without their normal daily schedules and distractions, it is also not unusual for some couples to even realise they have little in common, don’t share the same interests, have little to talk about or that they are no longer in love while they are away on holiday. Instead of bringing partners closer through shared personal and leisure time, the vacation can actual drive a wedge between them. They may well end up having a holiday as a married ‘single’; each going their individual ways, doing their ‘own thing’ and ignoring the other. Having their relationship problems highlighted by the holiday, they may return home and begin to seriously question the long-term prospects of staying together. Either or, instead of the relaxing respite and companionable togetherness they thought the time away was going to offer, it could well be the spur that ultimately separates them instead. Relationship counselling organisations note a continued sharp increase in couple counselling sessions after summer holidays and Christmas, so it can’t be an occasional coincidence. Their expert advice is to ensure that any problems are
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assessed and addressed at home before the holiday. If problems exist, do not subscribe to the cure-all advice to ‘go away together’ because relationship issues can derail any dream holiday and may even make the pre-existing situation worse. If it is impossible for a couple to work through their own problems, they should seek professional help. However, if a couple is mature enough to deal with their issues and is willing to listen carefully to their partner, calmly talk through their concerns and disputes and look for solutions and compromises, doing so while on holiday can be a good option. In such a situation, having quiet, quality time together away from life’s daily demands can provide the perfect retreat to discuss significant relationship issues. But bear in mind that this holiday objective is serious and its focus should be greatly different to that of a fun-filled and care-free vacation. If relationship problems seem insurmountable or are holding the scepter of a divorce or separation over a couple, they are advised to consider taking time out from each other and going on a holiday by themselves. Putting distance between them will give them time to think clearly and calmly about their situation, without emotions running high and clouding judgment. In such a case, the individuals should focus on the positive, rather than the negative – for example, think about why they fell in love with each other, the life they have built together (including any children they are raising), what attributes they admire about their partner and the strengths and values the partner brings to their relationship. Each should consider their own faults and define what part they are playing in the breakdown of the relationship. It does, after all, take two to tango, so acknowledge that you are not blameless either! Reflect on ways to address and correct faults and what each can personally do to improve and strengthen the relationship. Write down your observations and when you rejoin your partner, work together with a positive mindset to find solutions on how problems can be overcome; including seeking areas for mutual compromise. With a mature approach and a willingness to meet a partner half-way, most conflicts can be easily resolved. The trick is not to let small issues build up or be brushed aside as over time, they grow in to an insurmountable mountain and lead to a total breakdown in the relationship. Ignoring problems or applying a ‘quick fix band aid’ will not make the issues magically disappear. What can start off as a minor wound (conflict) can rapidly become infected, permeate the entire body (relationship) and even lead to death (divorce or separation). Once a couple believes their relationship is back on track and is no longer in danger of a separation, go on holiday! Spend quality time doing things together and rediscovering each other. Go for long walks, hold hands and talk to each other. Spend a leisurely time over dinner, treat it like a date and have an intimate conversation that does not involve the children, a garage that needs to be spring-cleaned or problems with the in-laws.
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WHO ARE THE TRUE
KINGS AND QUEENS OF AFRICA‘S ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY? STORY | PAUL ADEPOJU
Music lovers in Nigeria, South Africa, Ghana and elsewhere believe their nation is dominating the entertainment scene. Who is truly killing the game in Sub-Saharan Africa?
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n October, Fuse ODG from Ghana beat Nigeria’s Wizkid, Ice Prince and Tiwa Savage; South Africa’s Spoek Mathambo, Mafikizolo and Liquid Deep and Bombino from Niger to cling the Best African Act award at the 2013 Music Of Black Origin MOBO Awards. Though the ceremony was held in Glasgow, Scotland, there is an extensive debate back home – across various African cities over which country is ruling the continent’s entertainment industry? This is further compounded by the citizens of the various African nations who believe their stars are the best in Africa. The most eloquent are probably in Nigeria. On Twitter, Facebook and other social media platforms, Nigeria’s entertainment aficionados speak glowingly about the nation’s acts. This is further supported by the large number of awards the artistes from Nigeria are carting away at various African music awards such as the Channel O and MTV Africa Music Awards. Nigeria has a dominant presence at both awards. Nigerian musicians hosted the 2012 and 2013 editions of the Channel O Music
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Above: Nigerian Hip Hop Artist D’BANJ signs distribution deal with Sony Music.
Middle: DJ GANYANI’s Xigubu music video featuring FB. DJ GANYANI is one of South Africa’s house music legends, having been in the industry for over 20 years.
Right: FUSE ODG, a Ghanaian musician featuring international sensation WYCLEF JEAN in a new music video. Fuse won four awards at the recent Urban Music Awards held in London. The 25 year old hitmaker who was nominated in six categories took home the Best Single, Best Collaboration, Artist of the Year as well as the Best Music Video award. His song Antenna shot into the UK Top 10 Singles chart earlier this year.
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Nomad Life Style | African Entertainment
Probably the best way to know which country has the biggest stars would be to know the artistes that are earning most.
Awards; the country has also hosted 2 out of 3 MTV Africa Music Awards. This however doesn’t mean other African nations are lagging behind. Take South Africa for instance; it has a better structured music industry and has attracted international entertainment companies including Sony Music, Capitol Records Label, BMG, Tokyo Rising, and several others. Ghana is also not left behind. With internationally recognized superstars like Sarkodie who is signed to Akon’s Konvict Music, and R2Bees, the West African nation is also laying claims to the Biggest in Africa title. When the Azonto wildfire started in Ghana and spread across Africa, many Ghanaians believed the nation had finally claimed its rightful position at the zenith. Sam Onyemelukwe, former country manager Nigeria for MTV, and current managing director Nigeria for Trace TV described the debate as inconclusive. He further introduced another issue to consider when deciding who is truly ruling Africa – language. Sam said: “I made the same mistake some few weeks ago. I was with some of my colleagues from South Africa, Abidjan, Cameroon. I said Nigeria is responsible for 90 per cent of the music. You know they spent the whole weekend laughing at me. They kept calling me “90 per cent”. “And truly we were in a Francophone country and I found that when we talk of Davido or Wizkid, they’ve heard of them but they don’t know them like we do. The ones they know are the biggest and they cut across the continent. They have their own stars.” Angelique Kidjo is popular in Benin; French-speaking African nations also believe Fally Ipupa is one of the biggest stars in Africa in addition to Koffi Olomide. “There are also Portuguese-speaking African nations who also have their own musicians,” Sam said. Probably the best way to know which country has the biggest stars would be to know the artistes that are earning most. Channel O teamed up with Forbes Africa and released the list of the continent’s most bankable artistes. According to the list Akon (from Senegal) is the richest followed by Don Jazzy, P-Square, D’banj, Wizkid, 2Face Idibia, Ice Prince and Banky W – all Nigerians. The rest are Angola’s Anselmo Ralph, Ghana’s Sarkodie. From the list, Nigeria dominates with 7 artistes. Music enthusiasts however believe the figures may be misleading and true pictures of the real values of African musicians.
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Above: Nigerian Paul and Peter Okoye, better known as P SQUARE ARE No doubt the most successful African act, and this is evident with the massive success of their numerous concerts in the continent. Over the years, the three time MTV award winning group has made an enviable impact in Africa, doing sold out concerts.
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“No one can convincingly say how much those guys are truly worth; what we have are rough estimates and projections. The musicians don’t publicly display their bank statements and will never tell anyone the value of their possessions,” Bolaji Ojo said. He stressed that the details are best kept as secret since it is the bargaining power the entertainers have. Sam however believe that the quest for continental dominance and experimental Hollywood sojourn could be the right impetus that would quicken the growth of the continent’s entertainment industry which he said is still several miles away from US’. He said: “That is a recipe for need to develop and grow and try to do things right. We need to know what’s wrong and the kinds of perils we have. It’s great to see people in the industry making money but there is a long way to go. “Even if you compare one of our big artistes with those in other markets and I’m not talking about comparing M.I to Jay-Z. I’m a good friend of M.I and I love him and I know some people in Jay-Z’s camp too. But we can’t compare. “That is a global industry. Here in Nigeria, we may not yet be able to achieve global relevance, but in Africa we should be able to be generating multiple of revenues.” On NotjustOK.com, Nigeria’s music blog, visitors from Ghana and South Africa often engage in arguments over which country has the biggest stars. While Nigerians on the blog often mention superstars like P-Square, D’banj, TuFace and Flavor, South Africans boast that the country’s entertainment industry has grown to the extent that no Nigerian musician can say he or she is successful without shooting at least a music video in South Africa.
Right: South African house trio MI CASA in one of their music video. MICASA is without a doubt, one of the hottest acts to emerge from the South African dance market.
Middle: South African pop sensation and SAMA winner TOYA DELAZY performs on stage at the 2013 South African Music Awards (SAMA).
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Below: 21 year Old Nigerian Hip Hop artist and winner of African Artist Of The Year, DAVIDO performs in one of his music video.
i t h technology getting ubiquit o u s and innovat i o n becoming cosmopolitan, countries like Kenya, Uganda, Mali, Senegal and Ethiopia are also making significant contributions to the continent’s entertainment industry. Though their contributions are not yet enjoying continental dominance like South Africa’s or Ghana’s; nor can they compete with that of Nigeria that is supported by 150 million people. Ojo said the battle is a good thing for the industry. “10 years ago, every time I was in a club in Lagos, Nairobi, Accra or Cape Town, the DJs would play foreign songs and everyone would cheer in response. But now there is a paradigm shift; we now prefer our music to the ones from America and the rest of the world,” he said. 2Chainz recently performed at a sold out concert in Lagos. He agreed that Hollywood is losing its tight grip on the music terrain in Africa. He said D’banj enjoyed the response of the audience more than he did. As the trend spreads across Africa, fewer Africans would become addicted to foreign music. And whether the song is from Ghana, Togo, Namibia or Swaziland; Ethiopia, Tanzania, Morocco, South Africa or Nigeria, no one would care much about who is ruling since Africans will be listening to African music. That’s all that matters.
Helen Asante
This petite and loveable young actress is as charming on screen as she is off screen. With an innocent personality that often leaves viewers in disbelief when she turns on her naughty side, Helen probably got her lucky break playing the stubborn young girl off to get her tough boss in award-winning film maker, Shirley Frimpong Manso’s ‘Adams Apples’. She also stars in the new sitcom, Tenant on Africa Magic Entertainment but until her break she had also featured in movies such as ‘4play’, ‘4play Reloaded’, ‘ 14 February/ Spirit Of The Nurse’, and ‘Somewhere In Africa,’. Helen can also be seen in upcoming releases including ‘Sleep Over’ and ‘Twisted Desire’. The cutesy actress hints, “My highlights have been few charities here and there and although I have been off the movie scene for a bit to focus on TV, expect something great coming soon”
Nomad Life Style | African Cinema
ACTORS 2014 TO LOOK OUT FOR IN
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Story & Photographs by: AMEYAW DEBRAH
est African cinema, particularly Ghana and Nigeria continues to rise and with it, we have the many stars like Genevieve Nnaji, Omotola Ekeinde, Jackie Appiah, Nadia Buari, Majid Michel, Jim Ikye, John Dumelo and several others rise become not just pan-African stars but Global stars. We have seen Oprah Winfrey refer to Genevieve Nnaji as the Julia Roberts of Africa and Omotola has been listed in TIME 100 Most Influential People in The World. As these veterans use their position to achieve such great fetes for Africa, there are many budding and upcoming talents who are captivating us on the screens and winning our hearts with their lovable personalities, sex appeal, and unpredictability. We throw the spotlight on 5 such young talents from Ghana and Nigeria that you must keep an eye out on for 2014. ISSUE 2
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Ikechukwu Mitchel Ogbonna
Bobby Nnadiekwe
Like his moniker, Bobby Blaise, this young Nigerian actor is blazing hot! With a personality and good looks that turns heads wherever he goes, Bobby Nnadiekwe is not only the star of his University but a rising Nollywood actor who is fighting to earn his place in the industry. With several supporting roles along known faces such as Patience Ozorkwo, Ngozi Ezeonu, Eucaria Anonobi, Chiwetalu Agu, Clem Oheneze, Ebube Nwagbo, Angela Okorie, Adaora Ukoh, Jerry Williams and others, Bobby has featured in movies including ‘Sinful Mothers’, ‘Black Dragon’, ‘Make me a widow’ and many others. He says: Basically the African Movie Industry is now going places unlike it used to be in years past, now we have African Movies being shown in most big Cinemas all-round the Globe. However we still have more grounds to be conquered in terms of professionalism and great story ideas. The reception has been so great as I put in my best to master my act in terms of originality in all the Movies I have featured in and those yet to come. I’ve got mad love for my Continent and God bless the hearts of my fans as they expect the best of me any day and any time’
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Popularly known as Ik Ogbonna , this Nigerian model and actor is making moves and winning hearts with his good looks, effervescent personality and great sense of style. Standing at an impressive 6.2feet and blessed with a hot body and sexy brown eyes, he has become the desire of many female fans and it is not surprising that he has been romantically linked with many hot women including actress, Yvonne Nelson. The fast rising actor has featured in many movies alongside several of Nollywood’s leading ladies including Rukky Sandas, Tonto Dike. Ini Edo, Patience Ozokwor, Funke Akindele, Mercy Johnson, Nse Epe Etim and others. IK has also featured in movies such as ‘Lovelorn’ which featured, ‘Playing Safe’, ‘Beach 24’, ‘A Wish’, ‘Hustlers’ , ‘Gold Digging’, ‘Stolen Tomorrow’, ‘Mr Arshburn’ and the TV series, ‘Happy Family’. He believes the best is yet to come: “I have been gaining a lot of attention from the movie critics and soon every director would want to work with me. It’s been just one year since I made my debut in Nollywood and so far the response has been great. Who knows, maybe someday, I will be featured on Forbes Magazine”
Kpobo Evwaraye
The beautiful and daring Kpobo Evwaraye is not one to be turned down. After several failed attempts to get into the movie industry, she kept knocking until doors started opening for her and today she has an impressive body of work including Nigerian and Ghanaian productions, starring alongside the likes of Van Vicker and Nadia Buari. Kpobo Evwaraye has featured in several movies including ‘King’s Battle’, ‘Gallant Mamas’, ‘Restless Soul’, ‘In The Eyes Of The Nun’,’The Hands Of Time’, and ‘Live To Remember’. She will soon be seen in the upcoming movies, ‘The Last 3digits’,’Up The Creek Without A Paddle’, and two TV dramas ‘Daddy's Girls,’ and ‘Yours Faithfully’ She says: “Every time I get in front of the camera it’s an entirely different world, very exciting. Doing what I love doesn't make me realize any moment because I take every second and make it memorable. I am just like a wrapped gift box, I can’t say what Africa should expect from me but I know I am one gift Africa would be glad to have”
Roselyn Ngissah
This Ghanaian actress belongs to to a different breed. Proud and confident in her body, the bubbly and free spirited Roselyn Ngissah is surely representing for the big mamas. She is beautiful, talented and poised to conquer the world screen by screen. Perhaps scoring her break with her role as the the insecure wife of a playboy in the hit movie, 4Play, Roselyn’s body of work is impressive and growing. She has featured in movies such as ‘Somewhere in Africa’, ‘Sin of the Soul’, ‘Deadline’, ‘The CEO’, ‘ Amen’, ‘Bedmate’, ‘Kiss Me If You Can’, ‘Princess Tyra’, ‘Crazy Passion’, ‘Deadly Affair’ . Roselyn who also stars on the TV series ‘Adams Apples’ and ‘Tenant’ can soon be seen in ‘Shackles’, ‘Love And Facebook’, ‘Purple Rose’ , ‘Devil In A Dress’, ‘When He Is Mine’ and ‘Between The Lines’. She promises: “Africa should expect nothing but quality and good movies…quality entertainment”
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ZFW
Regulars | African Events
GETTING BETTER
| STORY: MIRIRO MATEMA | PHOTOGRAPHS: SIMON DEINER
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imbabwe Fashion Week started as a relatively new voice in the streets of Harare and indeed the world. Priscilla Chigariro-Gessen unveiled her plans for the first ever fashion week in October 2009 with the hope to rekindle the grace, opulence and flare of the Zimbabwe’s fashion industry as it’s known worldwide.
As the norm with many start-ups, a few bumps were faced in the roller coaster ride to a successful fashion event. The ZFW team were first denied use of the venue they had intended to hold their event by a local hotel following a misunderstanding over payments. They were meant to host a dinner to showcase a sneak preview of the upcoming fashion show which will run between July 28 and 31 at the hotel but it was cancelled just three hours before the event. After a handful of false starts, lost faith and retractions from international designers, the event lifted it’s curtains and showcased amazing work from Zimbabwe’s various designers.
On a normal Friday afternoon, I might’ve shared my view of what went wrong, what was missing and how Priscilla and her team should’ve, would’ve and could’ve done to curb the mishaps to this prestigious event. With 40 seats filled as opposed to the 200 that were planned for, ZFW began with a slow start. But regardless of the number of seats taken, the purpose of a fashion week is to network and create business opportunities and sign off deals. I’m sure the ZFW team would agree that it still would’ve been great to have a full house. So it’s a long road to greatness, not just for Priscilla but for the industry as a whole. Restored hope and thousands of Facebook likes later, the Zimbabwe Fashion Week team hosted its fourth edition in Harare scheduled to run from August 29-31, 2013. The event opened with a luxurious cocktail hosted at the South African Ambassadors house in Harare. From there the event showcased designers such as House of Kiki, Lon Crae, House of Alpha Rose, Zuvva, The Ndau Collection, Brotherhood Clothing, Maurice Gracial and the House of Yemurai. Each designer unfolded bright colours of red, green, blue and white hues to the runway in flowing gowns, knee length dresses, structured jackets, brights leggings and overcoats.
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Of the 23 collections showcased at Zimbabwe Fashion Week, only a handful of designers brought something truly innovative, unique and quite distinct which hasn’t been seen before in Zimbabwe. Many collections exhibited were simple reflection of seasons past. Despite this, there were some designers who showed some incredible pieces. Examples are Rumbie by Rumbie, Afrikanus, K7 and Teez M (Thembani Dube). It’s a pity that after the show you can’t locate these designers because they work from home. Some designers who’ve showcased at the ZFW have also exhibited outside of Zimbabwe, for instance, Joyce Chimanye of Zuvva, Yvonne Ndawana-Watadza, Maita Marimo and Yemurai Mpinyuri. Their workmanship was immaculate, from the cut, threads tailoring and finishes. Despite all this, ZFW is the only show of its kind in the country and this year, they took it up a notch. The production from its setup, lighting, sound and ambience were incredible. The team have gone a long way since its first show in 2010 and managed to reach out to a cosmopolitan audience. Ace fashion designer Yemurai Mpinyuri brought the curtains down on the latest edition of the Zimbabwe Fashion Week, clinching the coveted Designer of the Year award. From a time of drab wear to a prolific fashion scene, Zimbabwe has certainly reinvented itself as a hub of creative style. Homegrown designers and models were at the forefront, carrying the country onto international runways. As ZFW gets bigger and better each year, Zimbabwe’s fashion industry is blossoming on its own turf — as well as across it’s borders. “The Zim Fashion Industry continues to innovate and deliver high quality designs to the marketplace. Each member of the fashion industry has played a pivotal role in the development and recognition of its brands.” - Zim Fashion Council representative told me.
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The Zim Fashion Industry continues to innovate and deliver high quality designs to the marketplace. Each member of the fashion industry has played a pivotal role in the development and recognition of its brands.
imbabwe Fashion Week started as a relatively new voice in the streets of Harare and indeed the world. Priscilla Chigariro-Gessen unveiled her plans for the first ever fashion week in October 2009 with the hope to rekindle the grace, opulence and flare of the Zimbabwe’s fashion industry as it’s known worldwide. As the norm with many start-ups, a few bumps were faced in the roller coaster ride to a successful fashion event. The ZFW team were first denied use of the venue they had intended to hold their event by a local hotel following a misunderstanding over payments. They were meant to host a dinner to showcase a sneak preview of the upcoming fashion show which will run between July 28 and 31 at the hotel but it was cancelled just three hours before the event. After a handful of false starts, lost faith and retractions from international designers, the event lifted it’s curtains and showcased amazing work from Zimbabwe’s various designers. On a normal Friday afternoon, I might’ve shared my view of what went wrong, what was missing and how Priscilla and her team should’ve, would’ve and could’ve done to curb the mishaps to this prestigious event. With 40 seats filled as opposed to the 200 that were planned for, ZFW began with a slow start. But regardless of the number of seats taken, the purpose of a fashion week is to network and create business opportunities and sign off deals. I’m sure the ZFW team would agree that it still would’ve been great to have a full house. So it’s a long road to greatness, not just for Priscilla but for the industry as a whole. Restored hope and thousands of Facebook likes later, the Zimbabwe Fashion Week team hosted its fourth edition in Harare scheduled to run from August 29-31, 2013. The event opened with a luxurious cocktail hosted at the South African Ambassadors house in Harare. From there the event showcased designers such as House of Kiki, Lon Crae, House of Alpha Rose, Zuvva, The Ndau Collection, Brotherhood Clothing, Maurice Gracial and the House of Yemurai. Each designer unfolded bright colours of red, green, blue and white hues to the runway in flowing gowns, knee length dresses, structured jackets, brights leggings and overcoats. Of the 23 collections showcased at Zimbabwe Fashion Week, only a handful of designers brought something truly innovative, unique and quite distinct which hasn’t been seen before in Zimbabwe. Many collections exhibited were simple reflection of seasons
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Regulars | Wildlife Conservation
RHINO POACHING
A THORNY ISSUE
| By: ANDREW PARKER |
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Toxic infusions are the latest weapon to counter the thriving industry of rhino poaching in the big game areas adjoining South Africa’s Kruger Park.
onsumers of the powdered horn in Asia risk becoming seriously ill from ingesting a so-called ‘medicinal product’ which is now contaminated with a non-lethal chemical package. The 49 500 hectare Sabi Sand Wildtuin Association (SSWA) has launched the country’s first large-scale operation to toxify the horns of its rhinos, together with an indelible pink dye which exposes the illegal contraband on airport scanners worldwide. Many world famous Big Five game properties on the border of the national park are engaged in a costly struggle against relentless raids on rhino in the fertile bushveld in the western lowveld of Mpumalanga. The Sabi Sand Wildtuin Association of property owners will spend R6.5 million this year on security operations to intercept and head off the incursions – a budget allocation which has tripled since 2008 when the crisis first came to the fore. These defensive strategies, undertaken with the police and SA National Parks (SANParks), are facing predatory gangs heavily armed and highly motivated to meet the insatiable demand of Asian markets for rhino horn. That market is currently paying an estimated $65 000 (R600 000+) per kilo for mature horns, which average 4 to 4.5 kgs in weight when sawn or hacked off close to the skull of the harvested carcase. The poachers themselves, the starting point of the criminal traffic inside and around the Kruger National Park, receive a mere fraction of the R2 to 2.5 million value of each horn from the syndicates that plan the raids and export the material. Yet the size of their pay-offs in the neighbouring low-income communities is ample enough to keep the poachers safe from being identified. Intelligence is a prime asset in the escalating conflict. For this reason the numbers of rhino located in the area are kept confidential, as are the numbers lost to date. The national statistics are harrowing enough to the future of wildlife conservation and game tourism. The first spike in the incidence of rhino poaching was in 2008, when 88 animals were lost. This year, more than double that number had been butchered in only the first three months. The Sabi Sand Wildtuin Association’s game-changing toxification campaign is as much about sending a message to the illegal trade worldwide as it is about rendering the rhino horns inside its perimeter both worthless and hazardous as traditional medicine. Andrew Parker (41), CEO of the SSWA, says that compromising the product is the most effective deterrent to the illegal market. “Sabi Sand is leading this programme because we are located at the epicentre of the problem at the southern end of the Kruger Park, which suffers up to 70% of the rhino killings. Poaching syndicates are here in large numbers and we are vulnerable as a western buffer between them and the Kruger National Park.” Up to 2 000 people are employed in the Sabi Sand reserve, mostly local residents. Information about planned anti-poaching operations becomes common knowledge very quickly outside the perimeter fences. The intel is worth tip-off money. Poacher gangs can then blend into the community and enjoy unquestioned access in and out of the Sabi Sand area along the shared local roads.
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The poachers themselves, the starting point of the criminal traffic inside and around the Kruger Park, receive a mere fraction of the R2 toR2.5 million value of each horn. “We are sending a message through the supply chain that rhino horn from Sabi Sand will endanger the health of anyone who uses it as a medicine,” says Andrew. “It also raises the stakes against agents smuggling them through airports. When their market dries up, we expect the balance of risk against reward will swing back in favour of our own conservation operations.” Those operations are essentially defensive, counter-measures based on the surveillance of the daily movement of game and their natural predators. Poachers infiltrating the reserve are spotted and tracked as a matter of course and the information is fed into the communications network shared by the Big Five game lodges and the rest of the Association’s 42 members. As the poaching threat became aggressive and adroit enough to match the reserve’s combined ranger-watch, the decision to launch the rhino horn infusions was unanimously agreed by the association’s members in February.. “To date, interventions have focused on bringing additional manpower into the field to counter the problem,” Andrew states. “This has proved effective in terms of arrests, but not in stemming the rising body count of rhinos. “There is a limitless recruiting pool of poachers inside and outside our borders and they enjoy a tactical advantage against the counter-measures we’ve employed so far. They dictate the time, the place and the scale of their engagements and they hide in plain sight amongst local communities.” The Sabi Sand properties are making a direct contribution to the national economy of R500 million a year, Andrew explained, who wrote his Masters in Ecology at Wits University and then worked in the SANParks business development unit in Pretoria. He then managed the Welgevonden private reserve in Waterberg north of Johannesburg for five years before taking up his present Sabi Sand appointment in 2010. “I’ve been in conservation for my entire career,” he says. “Overcoming this present scourge is a fight in which we must prevail. Our strongest available response against poaching is to cripple the business of illegal rhino horn trading before it sabotages our own existing businesses.” The rewards for the poachers are rising as the costs for conservation agencies are similarly rising. The balance of their value chain must be reversed at its source. “Security costs are increasing. At Sabi Sand alone we are spending R6.5 million on security this year, which is 50% of our annual budget for the care and maintenance of the game park, infrastructure of roads and communications. Against this expenditure, the poachers are not restricted by any rules and how they respond to our policing them. We encounter incursions of poachers across our boundaries from the south, west and north.”
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Inserting a toxin into the horns of rhinos is a process, which has been used on over 100 animals in the past 18 months, and was pioneered by veterinary surgeon, Dr Charles van Niekerk at the Rhino and Lion reserve at Kromdraai northwest of Johannesburg. The results have proven to be non-harmful to the rhinos, cost-effective and an immediate and long-lasting solution for private game reserves, which are seen as easy targets for poachers. The only possible danger to rhinos having their horns infused is the stress caused by being immobilised. For this reason, the Sabi Sand treatments are performed during the cooler part of the day and the up to two-ton animals are brought round as quickly as possible. The toxin-dye injections are administered into the horn’s inert (painless) keratin by compressed air. Lorinda Hern from the Rhino Rescue Project explained to the authoritative conservation magazine, Scientific American, in 2011 that the toxin is a compound of parasiticides, which are used to control ticks on farm animals such as horses, cattle and sheep. It is also friendly to ox-peckers, the birds that settle on animals and feed on the ticks . While the treatment is for the benefit and improved health of the animals, it is toxic to humans. Symptoms of ingesting the drug cocktail – in powdered rhino horn, for example – would include nausea and vomiting. Andrew states, “We are not aiming to kill the consumers, no matter what we think of them. We want to kill the illegal trade that is preying on our herds. Once the poachers discover that rhino horn from Sabi Sand has no value, they will move on. When the risk/reward balance changes, making incursions against our own very experienced security counter measures will no longer be worth the risk.” The SSWA has considerable support for its latest initiative. Devaluing the rhino horns is only one of three phases of its strategy to protect and conserve the Sabi Sand wildlife in the long term. Winning the war means building up and motivating a highly-skilled staff on the ground; developing an excellent intelligence network and; winning the hearts and minds of surrounding communities by increasingly involving them in the business of the tourism industry. To this end the Sabi Sand owners’ association has joined forces with powerful bodies in the public and private sectors. One is SANParks’ Working For Wildlife programme. Led by Professor Guy Preston, it is a government-driven initiative that aims to provide funding to recruit and employ additional manpower. The private-public partnership has been piloted in the Sabi Sand and it continues to fund the recruitment, training and employment of 25 previously unemployed local youths as field rangers. A second initiative is titled Game Reserve United. It combines the field reportage of all the game reserves west of Kruger Park from Phalaborwa to White River. Says Andrew, “The earlier poachers are located, the better we can beat them to their targets. Equipment like radar and drones would be most effective in this, but they are too expensive for our budget. Good old fashioned intel remains our best weapon. “The reserves are putting money into a pot under the auspices of the Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa. This will fund reliable intelligence gathering amongst the local communities. Since the stakes are becoming so high in the illegal rhino horn trade, informants are now playing both sides in order to cash in. We have to compete against these payoffs in order to identify suspects and the targets of their next raids.” By running two forms of deterrents against the lucrative trade, the SSWA aims to seize the advantage against the poaching cartels in its own area and notify everyone supporting their activities - from Mpumalanga, Maputo and Vietnam to China - that we’ve moved their market’s goalposts. “The media in South Africa and globally maintain a close watch on the shrinking numbers of our rhino. The same platform can expose exactly what the poachers are up against from now on. They’ve had an easy ride so far, running a vast and brutal, hugely profitable trade under the noses of government authorities between here and Asia. Now we are forcing them to answer to their consumers about what they are passing off as medicine.”
TUTU
DESMOND O F AF RICA
THE UNTOLD STORY
Words: PAUL ADEPOJU | Photographs: REUTERS
He had nothing fancy during his childhood. As a son of an elementary school principal and a mother whose work was cooking and cleaning at a school for the blind. Growing up wasn’t the best of days for him as a had to battle with ubiquitous segregation which meant living in restricted areas and staying away from the polling booth, not because he’s not of age but for the color of his skin.
African Icon | Desmond Tutu
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ut instead of wallowing in self pity and blaming his race for his fate, Desmond Tutu did the unthinkable – he stayed poised and focused; determined to maximize the situation and lead a happy life."We knew, yes, we were deprived," he said. "It wasn't the same thing for white kids, but it was as full a life as you could make it. I mean, we made toys for ourselves with wires, making cars, and we really were exploding with joy!" After seeing a white man, a priest named Trevor Huddleston, tipped his hat to Tutu’s mother—the first time he had ever seen a white man respect a black woman, it made a profound impression on Tutu. He said it thought him not to accept discrimination. He added that the incidence made him to realize that religion could be a powerful tool for advocating racial equality. But this wasn’t a closed deal on his career. As someone who decides based on life experiences, Tutu also wanted to be a doctor after he nearly died following a tuberculosis infection when his family moved to Johannesburg when he was just 12 years old. He said he received excellent education at the Johannesburg Bantu High School which ironically was a grossly underfunded all-black school. This he said made him to realize that because something is cheap doesn’t mean it is of low quality. Tutu said: "The people who taught us were very dedicated and they inspired you to want to emulate them and really to become all that you could become. They gave you the impression that, in fact, yeah, the sky is the limit. You can, even with all of the obstacles that are placed in your way; you can reach out to the stars." After completing his high school education, he got a scholarship to study education at Pretoria Bantu Normal College. He bagged a teacher's certificate in 1953 and proceeded to receive a bachelor's degree from the University of South Africa in 1954. He returned to his high school where he taught English and history. "I tried to be what my teachers had been to me to these kids, seeking to instill in them a pride, a pride in themselves. A pride in what they were doing. A pride that said they may define you as so and so. You aren't that. Make sure you prove them wrong by becoming what the potential in you says you can become," he said. He enrolled at St. Peter's Theological College in Johannesburg in 1958 and was ordained an Anglican deacon in 1960 and a priest in 1961. Tutu left South Africa in 1962 for further theological studies in London, where he got his master's of theology from King's College in 1966. He returned to South Africa to teach at the Federal Theological Seminary at Alice in the Eastern Cape; he also served as the chaplain of the University of Fort Hare. In 1970, he moved to the University of Roma in Lesotho where he lectured in the university’s theology department.
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In 1972, he returned to England and accepted an appointment to serve as the associate director of the Theological Education Fund of the World Council of Churches in Kent. Tutu's rise to international prominence began when he became the first black person to be appointed the Anglican Dean of Johannesburg in 1975. It was in this position that he emerged as one of the most prominent and eloquent voices in the South African anti-apartheid movement. He said: "I realized that I had been given a platform that was not readily available to many blacks and most of our leaders were either now in chains or in exile. And I said, 'Well, I'm going to use this to seek to try to articulate our aspirations and the anguishes of our people.'" "I never doubted that ultimately we were going to be free, because ultimately I knew there was no way in which a lie could prevail over the truth, darkness over light, death over life," he said.
The rest is history.
Following the defeat of apartheid and numerous awards include the prestigious Nobel Peace Prize, he served as the Archbishop Chairman of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, a body set up to probe gross human rights violations that occurred under apartheid. Unlike Nelson Mandela that had a divorce, Desmond Tutu is still with Leah Nomalizo, the woman she married on July 2, 1955. They have four children. He is travelling across the world, raising awareness on HIV/AIDS and its tragic consequences in human lives and suffering. He still advocates for social justice and equality across the globe and has joined The Elders which include Nelson Mandela, Kofi Annan, Jimmy Carter and others. They meet regularly and discuss ways to promote human rights and world peace. In the world today, Tutu is believed to be in the same league with Nelson Mandela, Mohandas Gandhi and Martin Luther King Jr. he speaks for the oppressed and those that are struggling with inequality and fighting for freedom. In November 2013, he spoke in India and he shared the lesson he learned while growing up about the poor. He said: “Poor people do not want hand-outs. Most of those who are designated as poor are proud and do not want to be regarded as objects of pity” and that they “want to be treated with dignity, and cooperate with those who want to improve their lot.” He is unshakably optimistic, even in the face of overwhelming odds; and he is gifted with limitless faith in man’s ability to do good. He once said: "Despite all of the ghastliness in the world, human beings are made for goodness. The ones that are held in high regard are not militarily powerful, nor even economically prosperous. They have a commitment to try and make the world a better place."
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Regulars | Focus Africa
Africa’s Tourism Set to Boost Economic Growth
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Sub-Saharan Africa’s tourism industry is set to spur more economic growth for the continent and directly employ 6.7 million people by 2021, according to a new World Bank report released in October 2013.
he report—Tourism in Africa: Harnessing Tourism for Growth and Improved Livelihoods—says that Sub-Saharan Africa is outpacing other regions in tourism growth. Tourism accounted directly or indirectly for one in every 20 jobs in Sub-Saharan Africa in 2011 and is one of the few industries on the continent in which women are well represented as employees and managers. The report examines the potential of African countries to improve and expand their tourism sector and suggests that 33 of Sub-Saharan Africa’s 48 countries currently have the capacity for tourism success through establishing strong political support for developing the industry and attracting increased private investment to help finance and sustain it. The report cites successful examples of countries including Cape Verde, Kenya, Mauritius, Namibia, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania and others who have simplified their tourism policies, liberalised air transport and diversified tourism while protecting their communities and environments. This has created a positive investment climate for tourism development. “Africa’s private companies, especially in the tourism sector, are increasingly attracting regional and international investment and the returns on investing in Africa are among the highest in the world,” says Makhtar Diop, World Bank Vice President for Africa. “In close alliance with the private sector, governments must also do their part to create better transport, electricity, infrastructure and other key services to develop tourism for more broad-based growth and improved livelihoods.” Global hotel chains are expanding across Africa, recognising investment potential and committing millions of dollars in new projects over the next few years to meet increased demand from both international tourists and the continent’s own fast-growing middle class. In 2012, Africa attracted 33.8 million visitors, up from a low 6.7 million visitors in 1990. Its revenue from tourism for the same year amounted to over US$36 billion, or 2.8 percent of the region’s GDP. In 2011, global tourism contributed 9.1 percent to world GDP, 5.9 percent of worldwide exports and 4.5 percent of global investment. Africa’s tourism revenues are rising fast and are set to contribute more and more to world activity. If developed effectively and managed efficiently over time, tourism has the potential to accelerate Africa’s economic growth and job creation. It can also help accelerate the reforms needed to improve airline and road transportation as well as other key infrastructure in addition to raising the incomes of young men and women who form a high percentage of the job holders in the sector. “For African countries looking to sustain and increase growth, tourism can be harnessed through joint public and private sector efforts to achieve growth, wealth creation and shared prosperity,” says Gaiv Tata, Director of Financial and Private Sector Development for the World Bank in Africa whose department prepared the study. This report is the first to comprehensively examine tourism in Sub-Saharan Africa at a regional level and to recommend practical evidence-based measures that could create an economic transformation by leveraging the tourism industry to help create jobs, stem poverty and diversify economies. With an analysis of 24 tourism case studies from around the world, the report is a valuable and timely contribution towards efforts to build a framework for sustainable tourism in Africa. It also identifies policies and institutional approaches for African countries to make their tourism industry more competitive and attractive to investors. “Although Africa’s tourism potential has largely gone untapped to date, it can now take steps to close the gap with other regions,” says Hannah Messerli, co-author of the report and Senior Private Sector Development Specialist in the World Bank’s Africa Region. She adds, “Given the continent’s abundant natural and cultural resources, as well as business activity, the fundamentals are in place for tourism growth. Using the strategies and examples presented in this report, Africa can claim its fair share of world tourism.”
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MACHINE O THE NEW 2014 JEEP
ON WHEELS GRAND CHEROKEE
BACK SEAT
RUNNING OUT OF WISHES
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BY JO KROMBERG
A journalist called Elspeth Huxley once wrote: “Africa is a cruel country (sic); it takes your heart and grinds it into powdered stone - and no one minds.” forgive her lack of geographical knowledge (despite being educated in Kenya) because her description is so apt. And here I am again, my powdered heart and I – this time in Malawi, deposited here by Malawi Air. As the midday Blantyre heat slowly defrosts our South African cryogenic state, the dusty, bustling road we’re on eventually reveals the magnificent winding mountain pass down into the Shire Valley. The green valley lies indolently back into the arms of the surrounding mountains like a long lost lover. I have rediscovered pure joy as we drive to our first location - Mkulumadzi Lodge in the Majete Reserve. Located in the south of Malawi, Majete is an area of 70 000 hectares and part of Africa’s Great Rift Valley. We drive for a couple of hours through villages and the sounds of children’s voices are carried on the smoky breeze as we move closer towards the vermilion setting sun. We arrive after dark and walk across a suspension bridge. I can hardly see a thing but my senses are filled with the smell of the bush and the roar of the mighty Shire River. Our hosts, Mark, Jenna and Simon, welcome us with a gorgeous dinner. The sight of my suite makes me swoon. Each of the eight luxury chalets consists of a large bedroom and lounge that opens out to a wooden deck, plus an en suite bathroom with a sunken bath that overlooks the river. The haunting cry of a fish eagle breaks the dawn the next morning and the view makes my heart ache. I open the flap door onto my deck and for the first time in the pink-grey changing colours of dawn, the magnificent river reveals itself to me. I amble to breakfast and while enjoying the most delicious muesli and fruit concoction, I stare at the river in stupefied wonder. Jenna joins me and says there is a lot here to keep families busy – playing in the pool, game drives, walks and river cruises. En-route to the river for the cruise later that day we encounter eland, warthog and a white bushbuck – which is one of the rarest sights ever I’m told by Simon. The river cruise itself suspends time in totality.We watch as a herd of about 20 elephant cross the river, silhouetted against the setting sun. The people of Malawi are known for their placid, loving nature. They are the most genuine and generous of spirit. Everywhere, people are on their way somewhere, working and getting on with life. As we drive, the country also reveals its incredible natural and dramatic beauty - rocky outcrops, high mountains and breath-taking plateaus. After a four-hour drive, we finally get to Liwonde National Park. Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is a revelation.
It is a hidden safari camp gem with the main lounge building set high above the still water and wonderful views. This lush and fertile area sports an excellent diversity of animals, including elephant and sable antelope, impala and waterbuck. Accommodation at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge comprises of eight spacious tents for a maximum of 16 guests, each with ensuite bathroom facilities and a private viewing platform looking out on to the lagoon. We take one of the wooden walkways down to the beach. If you have kids, beware. They will never want to leave. Besides the pool and the beach, there is water-skiing, sailing, diving, wakeboarding, kayaking, snorkelling and fishing – and everything is safe. The staffs on the beach are ready and willing to assist with whatever activity you choose to participate in, all included in the rate apart from scuba diving. Back at Pumulani a treat awaits after dinner. Chris, the manager, sets up the lodge’s very fancy telescope for us to get a close-up of the constellations and planets. It is a very surreal feeling to see Saturn in real life with its rings, just as it appears in drawings. A tiny four-seater plane takes us aboad the next day for the hour’s flight to Mfuwe South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. On arrival, we are met by our ranger, Freddie, who takes us to our final haven – Nkwali. That afternoon on the game drive we spot a leopard up a tree, lions lazing in the shade, hyena, jackals and buffalo. The Lodge also offers walking safaris, night drives and boating. Dinner was a delightful , traditional ‘braai’ (barbeque) in the bush featuring maize, steak, sausage, chicken and salads. On our last night we stayed at the quaint Heuglins Guest House – a charming and perfect gateway between Zambia, Malawi and South Africa with great service and great food.
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