NOMAD AFRICA MAGAZINE by Nomad Africa

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NOMADAFRICAQUARTERLY

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GUGULAM

Redefining African Fashion DESTINATIONS

AFRICA’S TOP BEST LUXURIOUS SPAS AFRICAN ICONS

FEla! FORCING

THE WAY TO THE BROADWAY TRUTH NOMADAFRICAQUARTERLY

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ADVENTURE

Gorrillas in our midst INVESTIGATION

UGANDA’S WAR ON GAY EXPLORE

CaPEtoWn: tHE motHEr oF all CitiEs

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CONTENTS 134

FEATURES | Special Report

Beyond Beliefs Stigma and ignorance make life hard for the disabled street children of Sierra Leone, but there are signs this is changing. by Libby Powel

| Investigation

COVER STORY

Uganda’s War On Gays Two weeks, three days, four hours and ﬁve minutes after I interviewed him in a restaurant in kampala, Uganda’s strongest and most vocal homosexual, David Kato, had a strange guests in his apartment. by Paul Adepoju

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| African Icons

COVER STORY

FELA! Forcing the Broadway to the Shrine Truth

According to felaonbroadway.com, FELA! is the most critically acclaimed new musical of the season.His story inspired a nation. His music inspires the world. by Olusegun Paul

| Interview

114

Jerry Rawlings Talks Ghana, Africa

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CONTENTS 108

130

78 114

EXISTENCE 130|NDIBELE: Colour Is Inspiration For Life 146|HOROSCOPES: Destiny Forecast

ON THE COVER Gugulam luxury brand that shows of the fun and quality in design. It was created for the discerning fashion buyer. For women who love timeless classy clothing and still hold true to quality in their lifestyle. Gugulam is inspired by the world at large. We love culture and embrace diversity. From our own heritage we merge with other cultures to create the Gugulam brand. Photograph by: gugulam.co.za

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NOMADIC PERSPECTIVE In contrast to the popular error-laden school of thought on perfection, it is only imperfection that complains of what is imperfect. The more perfect we are, the gentler and quieter we become towards the defect of others. Africa in recent years has definitely done a lot in addressing its innumerable imperfections. Cities like Capetown hosted the world during the world football tournament in Year 2010, our report (page 44) shows the unique features of the beautiful city, several years after - the demography remains more diverse than ever. And Unlike what is being propagated in the international media, Jerry Rawlings is dissatisfied with the current state of the nation he ruled for more than a decade. Why? Well, ingrained politicization is clearly still playing its part but, according to our interview on page 114 with the former military/democratically elected leader, there is more that Ghanaian leaders – past and present, can do to speed up the rate of transformation he envisioned. In Kampala and elsewhere, openly gay people now have the hangman’s loose tightly wound around their necks – literally. The spate of discrimination against homosexuals in the east African country forms the crux of our focus article (page 68). Apart from the ills of African nations like Ghana and Uganda, Africans also fight individual battles with imperfection. The editorial board wasn’t economical with inks and pages to celebrate African heroes like Fela (page 50) who in death continues to make us all proud with his ageless messages, timeless music and boldness that Broadway couldn’t allow to just go bye. Africa is also proud of luxurious ‘heavenly’ spas (page 134), over whelming colouful traditions like Ndebele (page 130), exceptional fashion designers like Gugulam (page 85), unique mountainous jungles with magnificent beasts (page 26), even as much as it seems its beyond beliefs (page 78). This maiden edition of Nomad Africa celebrates Africa’s sojourn en route perfection highway without under reporting its current overwhelming challenges and future prospects. Nomad Africa presents Africa to the ever-busy business wizards who like Harry Porter and lead stars of other movies reviewed in this edition (page 24) are always on their broomsticks travelling from one place to another, saving the world or chasing love. If Nomad Africa does not inform this unique and highly influential demography about what is going on in Africa, who will? We present how you can make a difference and people that are making tremendous differences on a continent that has a perfect future that is obscured by several surmountable perfect imperfections.

Ashley Addeh

Managing Editor ashleyaddeh@nomadquaterly.com

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mad

aFriCa

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: John Mensah CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Yinka Davies EXECUTIVE EDITOR: James Balogun FASHION DIRECTOR: Saint Mary MANAGING EDITOR: Ashley Addeh DESIGN DIRECTOR: Owolabi David PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: Greg Hudson ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR: Debrah Kufo FEATURES ARTICLE EDITOR: Adepoju Paul SENIOR EDITOR: Bernard Thessy RESEARCH DIRECTOR: Anis Nkwo CONTRIBUTORS: Monica Bedi, Libby Powel, Paul Olusegun, Amber Kalor, Amanda Sharon, Amy Barret, Babara Ansah, Francesca Syz ART /PHOTO ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR: Abiodun Peter PHOTO EDITOR: James Silas DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST: Nadia Osei NOMADQUARTERLY.COM WEBSITE CONSULTANT: WorldSoft Networks SENIOR WEB EDITOR: Anthony Worenu

PHOTO (C) GUGULAM

ADMINISTRATION EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER- Adewoye Mike SENIOR INTERNATIONAL EDITOR- Awe Deji EDITORIAL OFFICES EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER: Ayeni Julius PUBLISHER/PRESIDENT: Akinribido Oyedele ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Awolumate Ola GENERAL MANAGER: Adam Smith Kweku MARKETING/ADVERTISING SALES: Orire Temi Email: ads@nomadquarterly.com Call/Text: +233 546 985 112 +234 803 627 5024, +234(1) 882 4370 ADVERTISING COORDINATOR: Doris Ezeala PUBLISHING CONSULTANTS: BookMasters Inc.

Nomad Africa is published quarterly by Magic Media Limited,a member of CreativeMagic Group International. Address Editorial enquiries to: editor@nomadquarterly.com All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure that all prices and data are correct as at the time of publication, Magic Media are not responsible for editorial errors. Opinions expressed in Nomad Africa are not necessarily those of Magic Media and Magic Media does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images supplied are at ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s risk

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AFRICAN HOLIDAY CALEN

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ALENDAR (January - April)

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REVIEWS

BOOKS FILMS & MUSIC

FASIYA

asiya is unlike any other kora album out there. Sona Jobarteh is the ﬁrst female kora virtuoso to come from a jeli (griot) family in West Africa, breaking down the normality of West Africa’s male-dominated kora tradition. Coming from a long line of hereditary musicians and the West African Jobarteh jeli family, she is cousin of the kora maestro Toumani Diabate and granddaughter of jeli Amadu Bansang Jobarteh. Featured in the album are renowned West African musicians, such as Juldeh Camara. Born in London, Sona Jobarteh brings us an album that is full of grace, warmth and passion. Jobarteh’s voice is emotional throughout the album, informing listeners of her heritage. From empowering lyrics addressing social issues, to the narratives of tradition, Fasiya is not "just another traditional kora album". It represents where the kora stands today within the African diaspora, whilst also respecting tradition. Songs divert away from the instrument, allowing Jobarteh’s other instrumental talent shine through. The result is a major African following within London, whilst informing others about West African heritage.

EVERYBODY LOVES ICE PRINCE

rguable one of the most anticipated rap albums Everbody Loves IcePrince is ﬁnally here. Judging from the success of his smash hit single “Oleku”, we need no jazz man to tell us how much pressure was on the Jtown MC to deliver a solid piece of work. After listening to the album about 15 times, I can conﬁdently say that Ice Prince is not here to play. He reveals to us that he is setting out to be

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not just another conventional rapper & he got away with some tricks. Generally, Ice Prince delivered a solid debut album. Though the album may have had a few short-comings, it is a very solid start for Ice Prince’s career. The Album featured artistes in from all brackets; from up-coming acts to the top shots of the Industry. Guest appearances include Yung L, J Milla, Wizkid, 2face Idibia,Wizboy, Sean Terro, Morell, Samklef, and of course Brymo, Jesse Jagz and MI.

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KINYARWANDA

AFROFUNKYDISCOSOUL

A young Tutsi woman and a young Hutu man fall in love amidst chaos; a soldier struggles to foster a greater good while absent from her family; and a priest grapples with his faith in the face of unspeakable horror. Director: Alrick Brown Writers: Charles Plath (storyline consultant), Alrick Brown (screenplay) Stars: Cleophas Kabasita, Hadidja Zaninka and Marc Gwamaka

froFunkyDiscoSoul as the name suggests gathers together some of the best in musical genres with some of the ﬁnest artists in Nigerian music while keeping the album ultimately diverse and fresh with each new track. It’s like DJ Klem throws a crazy party with all kinds of music genres for all these artists to play in, and they don’t leave the spot till the sun comes up. Overall, DJ Klem’s album is grossly underrated and should be hyped as one of the better albums in the past year. The beauty of an album sometimes is in its ability to showcase diverse sounds which DJ Klem has been able to do with a range of artists from all genres. If you’re into music that ﬁts a range of moods, this is an album for you.

THE FEAR

n this remarkable look inside Mugabe's isolated yet restive Zimbabwe, journalist Godwin (When a Crocodile Eats the Sun) and his sister, Georgina, return to their childhood home "to dance on Robert Mugabe's political grave"; that is, to observe ﬁrsthand the teetering of Africa's (and the world's) oldest tyrant at the critical moment of the 2008 elections. Although the elections promised an end to Mugabe's nearly 30--year dictatorship, even as the 84--year-- old president has clung to power in a campaign of widespread terror. The depiction of the heroic (if "prissy") liberation leader against white--minority rule turned brutal power--monger is at once personal, well--informed, and at times, heart--racing. Godwin and Georgina tour the economically devastated and state--terrorized cities, farms, and diamond mines at considerable personal risk, gathering candid interviews with dispossessed farmers, marginalized elites, and former insiders to cast a light on the workings of Mugabe's dictatorship and psychology, and the "fear factor" crucial to his control.

MUSIC, LOVE & LIFE

-Black latest album MUSIC, LOVE & LIFE, which is his first solo effort, is packed with great features and production and it is by far one of the most successful albums of all time. The album is one single album with a huge compilation of extreme talents globally. Features include: Wyclef Jean, Buffalo Souljah (Zimbabwe), 2 Face Idibia (Nigeria),

Dr. Cryme, Reggie Rockstone, Sante, X.O Senavoe, Ayigbe Edem, Tinny, Sarkodie, Kwaku-T, Guru, Iwan, Efya, Samini and Kwabena Kwabena (Ghana). D- Black seems to have a thing for unprecedented feats as the album is the ﬁrst Pure English Hip hop Album to be released by a solo artist in Ghana ever, with his 2009 Group release “Target Practice” by D-Black and Kwaku-T being the ﬁrst Hip Hop duo album release ever in Ghana. ISSUE 1

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Michael Nichols/National Geographic/Getty Images

DESTINATIONS EXPLORE

A mountain gorilla breaks branches off a giant senecio to get at the pith, Parc des Volcans, Rwanda.

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Gorillas in our Midst Only 700 of these magniﬁcent beasts live in the mountainous African jungle, but numbers are recovering and tourists are helping to ensure their survival. NOMAD AFRICA’s Taﬀeta Gray reports from Uganda and Rwanda

he Bwindi Impenetrable Forest certainly lives up to its name. The canopy is a roof of tightly intertwined trees and vines that create layer upon layer of shadow. The early-morning cloud hangs low and uninviting amid the branches. Our guide, Male, promises, however, that the forest can be infiltrated — but it's not going to be easy. Fifteen minutes into our trek through Uganda's great forest, I lose count of the number of times I have slipped on the muddy ground. So has Male, apparently, who carries on regardless. As he disappears into the deep green, the only thing I can hear is the sound of his machete thrashing through the thick undergrowth and a murmur of excited voices. I pause to catch my breath (the higher altitude makes you feel more unfit than you might otherwise), and, suddenly, through a gap in the trees, I see the unmistakable, magnificent silhouette of a great ape. It's hard to exaggerate the sense of exhilaration you feel laying eyes on a mountain gorilla. As an animal lover and trained zoologist, I have been dreaming of this moment for a long time. But you don't have to be a nature

geek to get the thrill. I understand immediately what David Attenborough meant when he said, 'There is more meaning and mutual understanding in exchanging a glance with a gorilla than with any other animal I know.' I'm in Uganda with the Brighton-based World Primate Safaris. Not only do they oﬀer expert knowledge of primates and the best places to see them, but they support the local communities and work alongside conservation organisations such as The Born Free Foundation. The goal of our trip is to see gorillas in the wild, not just in Uganda but across the border in Rwanda too. We're staying at the Gorilla Forest Camp, a sumptuous tented lodge, and one of only two places to stay within the Impenetrable Forest, which means a crucial extra half-hour in bed with a hot-water bottle before the morning trek. We arrived in Entebbe on Lake Victoria a week ago, travelling west by 4x4, following the foothills of the Rwenzori mountains southwards with our anticipation of seeing the gorillas growing every step of the way. Distances are short compared to most of East Africa — safari sites are usually between two and ﬁve hours' drive away. From the 4x4 window, Uganda's landscape was gloriously

“I pause to catch my breath (the higher altitude makes you feel more unfit than you might otherwise), and, suddenly, through a gap in the trees, I see the unmistakable, magnificent silhouette of a great ape.”

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Paul Souders/Worldfoto

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A park ranger looks for a route through Bwindi impenetrable Forest, Uganda. Mountain gorilla habitat.

inconstant — mountains slope into plains of grass and acacia, thick jungle melts into eastern savannah. We walked with chimpanzees in Kibale National Forest, watched hippos and crocodiles wallowing in mud on the banks of the Kazinga Channel and witnessed lions climbing trees in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park. And now I'm in Bwindi, home to one of the richest ecosystems in Africa, located on the far southwestern tip of Uganda, literally face to face with a gorilla. And not just one.

“IN A Sulky fIT hE flOuNcES ON TO A bED Of lEAvES, ONly TO bE SurrOuNDED by SEvErAl fEmAlES whO bEgIN grOOmINg hIS ThIck hAIr.” 28

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I feel like I am being watched from every angle — and I am. Our gorilla is part of a 22-strong family group, and the biggest habituated group of gorillas in Bwindi. There are gorillas everywhere. Adults are busy feeding while juveniles slide down tree trunks like fluffy firemen. And as we creep nearer the centre of the group it is clear which great ape demands the most attention. In the distance sits a regal silverback, glaring at his visitors with vague contempt. After several minutes, he emanates a mighty huff and turns his muscular back on us, showing off a fine matt of grey hair. Male whispers that this is Rwansigozi, meaning 'strong young man'. Rwansigozi lies back contentedly, his deep-throated murmurs rumbling through the impenetrable forest. Another juvenile somersaults between two snoozing adults, pulling at leaves and grasping at the vines. He bounces up and down, thumping his chest to show us how tough he is. Nearby, a new mother eyes the humans nervously, clasping her youngest to her chest. Her infant glares at us with inquisitive and humorous eyes. The gorillas share their forest with a bewildering diversity of creatures: 120 species of mammals, 346 of birds, 202 of butterflies, 27 of frogs, chameleons and geckos to list just a www.nomadquarterly.com

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At £300 a person per day, trekking brings £2 million to uganda and rwanda, which accounts for around 50 per cent of uganda's wildlife Authorities' annual income and funds staff training, anti-poaching patrols and the protection of the national parks. income and funds staff training, anti-poaching patrols and the protection of the national parks. Strict controls are in place to protect the animals. No one with a cold or flu is allowed in and we're instructed to keep seven metres from the gorillas at all times (although the gorillas sometimes have different ideas). Including the income from hotels and restaurants, gorilla tourism in this region amounts to £13 million a year. High-end eco-lodges are sprouting up to support the growing demand. After the appetite-building experience of watching gorillas chomp their way through mountains of foliage (they have a 50lb-a-day bamboo habit), the Gorilla Forest Camp serves up a four-course dinner back at the camp. There's also a crackling bonfire, around which guests compare their ape encounters to the beat of an African drum.

Andy Rouse (www.andyrouse.co.uk)

few. But it is for its gorillas that it is best known and it's depressing to think that the 340 remaining Bwindi gorillas represent half the world's population of this endangered species. Only 720 mountain gorillas are thought to survive in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Since they were first recorded in the wild in the 1850s, numbers have been threatened by poaching, hunting, disease, habitat destruction, and war. Poaching has died down, though there are still reports of sporadic killings and trap casualties. The survival of this species is in large part due to the ongoing work of park rangers, local communities, and international conservationists and the Ugandan and Rwandan governments. Both countries have invested large sums in conservation projects, and are reaping the rewards of increased tourism. Many of the remaining gorillas have been 'habituated', a process that, in effect, involves someone sitting in their midst for four or five years. There are four habituated mountain gorilla groups in Uganda and seven in Rwanda, and a maximum of eight tourists are allowed to visit the group each day. We are at full capacity today with a mainly European contingent and we have been assigned the Habinyanja or 'H' group, which has been receiving tourists since 1999. As I crouch in the bushes staring at this magnificent species, it's easy to see why people want to come here. And it's important they do. At £300 per person per day, trekking brings £2 million to Uganda and Rwanda, which accounts for around 50 per cent of Uganda's Wildlife Authorities' annual

A group of mountain gorillas kick back in the hills of Rwanda, ever so close to the cultivated land ISSUE 1

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“

The only downside of seeing gorillas is that you can't help wanting to see them again. And at £300 a go, it's an business. But after our successful trek in Bwindi, we are eager to repeat the experience and head over the border to Rwanda whose gorillas were made famous by the American primatologist Dian Fossey. On entering Rwanda, there are signs of construction at every turn. Fifteen years on from the 1994 genocide, Rwanda is a nation determined to get back on its feet. The government is pumping money into regeneration and over the next three to four years, existing hotels will be revamped and new sites developed, making Rwanda an enticing prospect for those looking to safari in style. I'm staying at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda's first truly five-star accommodation. It's a unique partnership between Kenya-based safari experts, Governors' Camp, and is run in conjunction with the African Wildlife Foundation to support local conservation initiatives. Surrounded by the mighty Virunga volcanoes, the lodge has eight stone cottages each with their own wood fire – it gets very cold in the mountains, especially if you've spent a few days in the dry heat of Uganda's savannah. Each cottage has its own sitting room complete with fireplaces that are kept well-stoked for your return, while the main lodge has big comfy sofas where you can cuddle up with a cup of tea and freshly made cake or gin and tonic after a long day trekking. Our guides are busy on their mobile phones talking to the

trackers who left hours ahead of us to locate the apes. We are in luck. Just when I think we have started to walk round in circles, the guide points to fresh tracks in front of us. Seeing the gorillas a second time is just as exhilarating as the first — perhaps even more so because we had worked so hard to find them. The apes have made a clearing in the nettles. Deliberately ignoring our presence, the adults lay about snoozing or grooming each other as their young play fight and practise their chest beating. Rwanda's gorillas look larger than their Ugandan counterparts, or maybe they just have thicker coats to protect them against the colder weather. Either way, the silverback of the group, Kurira, is the most impressive beast I've seen — a bigger version of Rwansigozi. Kurira sits holding court, his family scattered in loose clusters in front of him. Three juveniles play noisily. One pretends to be bored momentarily, feigning interest in the nearby vegetation before pouncing on his unprepared opponent. Kurira, seemingly irritated by their playful mischief, reaches over and slaps the unsuspecting delinquent with his massive hand. A huge thud reverberates in the trees. As Kurira rises onto his fists and strolls past us, his authority is frighteningly obvious. Thirty eight gorillas stop what they are doing and follow him up the volcano. We watch breathlessly while gorillas stuff vegetation into their mouths at impressive speeds. Every so often, above the crunch of perpetual munching, they break wind in a concerto of unconscious obscenity. My time with these great apes is drawing to a close. A guide urges us to take our last photos. It all seems too soon. Just before we turn to leave, however, a young infant turns towards us and beats his chest dramatically, falling over adorably in the process. I'd like to think he was saying goodbye.

Seeing the gorillas a second time is just as exhilarating as the first — perhaps even more so because we had worked so hard to find them. . . rwanda's gorillas look larger than their ugandan counterparts, or maybe they just have thicker coats to protect them against the colder weather.”

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DESTINATIONS INSIDE OUT

Ulrich Doering / Alamy

ACCRA INSIDE OUT

Great tips from the people who really know the city.

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tHE BuKa @10th Lane, Osu

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

For great African ambience, try the Buka in Osu, near the former American embassy. It offers a fabulous variety of Ghanaian and Nigerian dishes. The peppered snails are out of this world. Keep a cold drink close by. -Ruben Dotse, Entrepreneur

he Buka Restaurant was established in September 2003 and opened its doors to the general public on the 15th of December that same year. The restaurant, which currently has only one branch, is situated in the hub of Osu off the main Street on 10th Lane, two doors away from the former American Embassy Visa Section. Buka as it is popularly referred to, was set up to cater especially for the middle-income business community and the discerning international travellers. Buka presently seats 75 on an open-air terrace and has a further seating capacity of 36 set in two immaculately designed rooms with an ambiance of seclusion and air-conditioned

comfort. It is opened from Mondays through to Saturdays from noon till 10pm and on Sundays from noon till 6pm. It proudly offers an excellent fusion of local foods using the finest of ingredients. A friendly service, and an enthralling and picturesque African setting is its signature. The regular menu at Buka consists of eclectic dishes from Ghana, Cote Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ivoire, Togo, Nigeria and Senegal. In addition, there are specific Ghanaian and Nigerian specialties throughout the working week. In the evenings, there is a relay of mouth-watering grills in the open-air inducing a welcoming atmosphere. Besides the restaurant, Buka offers contract and outside catering which is presently viewed as a major area of growth and expansion.

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“

Accra has a great roadside food culture with fried yams, fried fish, grilled kebabs just some of the delicacies on offer. but the most famous ghanaian delicacy is kelewele — fried plantain spiced with ginger and pepper and served with groundnuts on the side. Stop anyone on the roadside and they’ll be able to point a good stall out to you.

CITIZEN KOFI

@6th Street, Osu

The best place to hang out if you are looking for something chic is Citizen Koﬁ in Osu. The bar has a great view of the capital’s busiest street. If you get peckish you can enjoy light bar snacks, but if you’re really hungry go down one ﬂoor and feast on one of their steaks. -Ekow Awoonor, lawyer

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Citizen Kofi - A 6 level structure equipped with a night club, a sky bar, performance stage and most notably a restaurant known as Zanga.

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CulturE Ghana was known as the Gold Coast until 1957 when it became the first independent black African nation. Pay a visit to the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park. Nkrumah was the founder of modern Ghana and its first president. He is considered the continent’s greatest. lanGuaGE English (Official), Akan, Ga, Ewe, Dagbani, Nzema & Hausa CurrEnCY Cedis rEsourCEs Gold, Diamond, Bauxite, Manganese, Timber and Cocoa.

LA BADI BEACH This is the place to be on a Saturday afternoon — it’s teeming with people and activity. There are several diﬀerent bars and plenty of fun to be had. -Stan Klomedo, ﬁnancial analyst

FootBall Ghana is one of Africa’s best teams at this year’s World Cup, so make time to visit Ohene Djan sports stadium. Players such as Michael Essien of Chelsea and Inter Milan’s Sulley Muntari honed their skills in Ghana. A match between the country’s two biggest clubs — Accra Hearts of Oak and Kumasi Asante Kotoko – is always an intense and passionate affair. must BuY Invest in a piece of Ghana’s most famous kente cloth. It’s thick and heavy and worn almost like a Roman toga. Real kente must be hand-woven — if it’s not, it’s not the real deal. HoW to GEt tHErE Several international airlines, including Ghana International Airline, operate regular scheduled flights from Ghana to major cities in North America, Europe, Africa and the Middle East. See more travel tips on page 148

Ohene Djan Stadium, Accra

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Joints for Dinner THE ROYAL DRAGON

@La Palm Royal Beach Hotel, 1 Bypass

LE TANDEM

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@6 Mankralo Street

A favourite of professionals and high-level executives, Le Tandem has excellent French cuisine and is located in an upscale residential area. Also try Ristorante Primavera at Labadi Beach Hotel. It’s quiet, the service is personal and the food is excellent. For something less expensive and very ﬁlling, try Papaye. It’s famous for its grilled chicken and fried rice. -Fredrick Amissah, Engineer

For a mind-blowing meal, go to the Royal Dragon (formerly the Bali Hai). It offers a variety of teppan-yaki-style Indonesian, Thai and Chinese dishes. The chef Kenneth Nyavor is a terrific guy and seeing him cook is part of the fun. Watch out for his flying spatulas and pyrotechnics.

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RED CHILI Red Chilli was borne out of a passion for African cuisine. It targets the health conscious but African-food-loving person and their foods are prepared from the freshest and best ingredients with minimal amounts of oil and salt. They are pleased to cater to your specific dietary requirements for health reasons or otherwise. Tantalise your African Taste buds, call Red Chilli for a lunch delivery, quick business meal, or a leisurely meal with the family over the weekend. They have developed an outstanding reputation in food delivery and event catering over the past three years. Red Chilli has been consistent and prompt in delivering local dishes throughout Accra Metropolis. When you want your lunch to be on time, then just call Red Chilli.

Bars NEXT DOOR BEACH RESORT

@Beach Road, Tashie

The Next Door Beach Resort is a nice place to chill out on a Friday evening. Live music, a bit of dancing and a cool breeze adds to the atmosphere. But do note Accra has a great number of ‘drinking spots’. Some are upscale and trendy where you may feel out of place without the right shoes and there are roadside spots where no one cares even if you show up in slippers. Next Door is a nice mix of both. among accra’s pretty good Chinese restaurants is imperial Peking near the polo grounds. the crispy duck and sweet and sour chicken are excellent, and well-priced too. -lauretta aryeetey, Communications Executive ISSUE 1

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NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS, ABURI The weather is cooler and fresh palm wine is sold by the roadside. The views are incredible. Drive past the presidential retreat at Peduase Lodge and head to Hillburi for another stunning vista. And you may spot Rita Marley, who has a home there. -Nicolas Tetteh, Banker

THE INDEPENDENCE SQUARE The Independence Square of Accra, Ghana commemorates the independence of Ghana, a first for Sub Saharan Africa. It contains monuments to Ghanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s independence struggle, including the Independence Arch, Black Star Squre, and the Liberation Day Monument.

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Cape Town

Mother of all Cities

A trip to South Africa can take in Cape Town's vibrant bars and nightlife as well as the breathtaking sights of an eco-friendly game reserve, says Sara Lawrence

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DESTINATIONS ADVENTURE

ape Town is famous for a variety of attractions that stretch from the famous Table Mountain all the way down to the sea. With a rich history, vibrant culture, pearly white beaches, charming ﬁshing villages, colourful ﬂoral reserves and numerous adventure activities, Cape Town is worth at least a week of your time in South Africa. The impressive bulk of Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain looms over the city, a silent sentinel to the Mother City's vibrant culture, beautiful beaches, rich history, worldclass shopping and entertainment facilities, and friendly citizens. Visitors to Cape Town can choose from a wide range of accommodation, from award winning Cape Town hotels, to comfortable B&Bs and backpackers. The city is known for its restaurants, which serve delicious fresh seafood, award-winning wines and the Cape’s own distinctive Malay-inspired cuisine. The city is steeped in history. Highlights include a trip to

Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for much of his life; the Castle of Good Hope, built by the early Dutch settlers and expertly restored; and the historic homestead of Constantia. The beautiful surrounds of the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, along with the historic streets of the city centre and the many outdoor markets, offer visitors a varied and relaxed shopping environment. As host of the annual Cape Town Jazz Festival, music is a big part of Cape Town’s entertainment scene. Beaches, one of Cape Town’s attractions, draw sun-seekers and sporting enthusiasts alike. You’ll find clean white sand and sparkling (if somewhat chilly) water as well as activities such as sailing, fishing, whale watching, wind-surfing and kiteboarding. The city offers plenty for adrenalin junkies too, with mountain climbing, abseiling and paragliding operations based in the city. It’s also home to a number of marathon and cycling events. You can enjoy many day trips and weekend getaways from

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Cape Town, such as tours to the nearby winelands; trips to picturesque seaside villages and fishing harbours; Cape Point, a World Heritage Site where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet; and, last but not least, South Africa’s famed wild flower reserves, home to some of the rarest – and most colourful – plants in the world. The beautiful beaches in Cape Town contribute to the Mother City’s worldwide acclaim. From the trendy shores of Clifton and Camps Bay to the warmer swimming waters of False Bay – if you love surf and sand, Cape Town will have a beach that’s just right for you. On Cape Town’s Atlantic seaboard, wide sandy stretches, dramatic views and blazing sunsets make up for the bracing sea temperatures that these beaches of Cape Town are known for. While the water might be chilly, Clifton’s 4 beaches are among Cape Town’s most popular, attracting a trendier set that like to sunbathe, play volleyball and hang out with friends. Nearby Camps Bay beach is a Cape Town weekend favourite, edged by trendy eateries and characterised by large crowds. A little further on you’ll find Llandudno, a surfers’ paradise rimmed by some of the city’s most expensive real estate, and Sandy Bay, where not even a swimming costume is required. The warmer Indian Ocean waters of the False Bay seaboard are better suited to swimming. Best known among these beaches is Muizenberg, where multi-coloured Victo-

“when it comes to eating, South Africa is carnivore heaven”

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rian-style beach boxes hark back to a more genteel time. There are some good Cape Town beaches in nearby Simonstown, one of the oldest Cape settlements with a strong naval tradition, reﬂected in the number of naval museums and monuments in the town. When the wind is up at the beaches in Cape Town, people head to Boulders Beach, which is sheltered by large, rounded rocks and is home to a protected colony of African penguins. www.nomadquarterly.com

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rATANgA JuNcTION

Other popular Cape Town beaches are Noordhoek Beach, which is good for long walks and popular with surfers and kite fliers; Kommetjie Beach, another popular surfers' hangout; and Blouberg Beach, which offers the famous view of Table Mountain across the bay. Pedalling along Cape Town's promenade with the Atlantic Ocean to my right, the Green Point World Cup stadium to my left and Table Mountain on the skyline, it's hard to believe that just a few months ago this spot was filled with football fans. Now the city is back to normal as people stroll with their dogs, do yoga and play touch rugby on the beach. I'm on a guided cycle tour with Bike & Saddle that takes in the fashionable western side of the Cape Peninsula starting from Cape Grace, a five-star spa hotel with its own yacht moored outside on the V&A Waterfront marina and a guest list which includes the Clintons, Beyoncé and Leonardo DiCaprio. Not only does a bike tour win eco points, but setting off from a glorious hotel feels like the perfect mix of leisure and luxury. And it's a brilliant way to explore the city. We coast through De Waterkant, the city's gay area with its chic boutiques, eateries and nightlife, past Beefcakes, a hugely popular burger, milkshake and cabaret joint, before winding up the gentle hills of Bo-Kaap, the predominantly Muslim Cape Malay district, with its brightly painted houses. We wander the fragrant aisles of the Atlas Trading Spice Shop on Wale Street, which supplies the city's top chefs, as the proprietor, Mr Ahmed, shares his knowledge of his stock. Turmeric, for instance, is considered to have antibiotic and antiseptic qualities, he says.

visit to Ratanga Junction offers visitors the most exciting rides in South Africa along with a host of other entertainment, leisure and shopping options. Boredom is never a problem at this theme park in Cape Town. Ratanga Junction is a thrill-a-minute theme park in Cape Town's Century City development, catering to the young and the old, the daring and the cautious. With over 30 attractions, including 24 rides, it comes as no surprise that this Cape Town theme park is a hit with locals and visitors alike. Though white-knuckle thrills are only one element of Ratanga Junction, they are the premier element and the 3 most popular rides - the Cobra, the Slingshot and the Tarantula - are the most popular. The Cobra is arguably the most challenging ride of all: a suspended looping coaster which catapults riders along a track at up to 4 times the force of gravity and at speeds of close to 100 km/h. Running it a close second is Ratanga Junction's latest addition, the Slingshot. Rated as one of the most thrilling extreme rides in the world, it combines elements from skydiving and bungee jumping, allowing ‘flyers' to experience the thrill of freefall. Perhaps best to try this one on an empty stomach. Adults with heart problems (real or imagined) can take slightly more sedate rides along with younger children on the Bar-One Bushwacker or the ‘medium-thrill' Diamond Devil Run rollercoaster. With South Africa's enviable climate waterbased rides are always popular and Ratanga Junction boasts two in Monkey Falls, one of the highest log flume rides in the world, and Crocodile Gorge, a rapid river ride through gorges and jungle during which you are guaranteed to get soaked. There are several cinemas in the park as well as various snake and exotic bird exhibitions and shows, while during school holiday periods live entertainment - such as the Cape Minstrels and a rock festival - are on offer. Restaurants and pubs abound for those seeking refreshment.

“Not only does a bike tour win eco points, but setting off from a glorious hotel feels like the perfect mix of leisure and luxury. And it's a brilliant way to explore the city.” Issue 1

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We finish where we started, with local wine and gourmet canapés on the deck outside Bascule, Cape Grace's happening bar. When it comes to eating, South Africa is carnivore heaven. At Headquarters in Heritage Square, for instance, the menu offers one thing, perfect sirloin steaks coated in the restaurant's signature herb butter with chips and salad. A visit to South Africa would be incomplete without a trip to a game reserve. A short morning flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg and another hour in a small private plane, and we land at Londolozi (which means 'protector of all living things' in Zulu and is owned, appropriately, by the conservation-minded Varty family), in the private Sabi Sand reserve adjacent to the Kruger National Park. In keeping with their vision of harmony between man, beast and the environment, no fences separate the parks, allowing the animals to roam freely. This is also the first camp in the world to run a zero-emission 'silent' safari — where prototype solar-powered four-wheel drives allow you to get closer to the animals. Our game ranger's 'high risk/high reward' tracking strategy delivers on each thrilling drive. Leopard cubs play in a tree five metres in front of us, lionesses protect their cubs from marauding males, hippos wallow as crocodiles linger on the banks nearby, zebras graze and warthogs gallivant across our path. Cape glossy starlings, lilac-breasted rollers and bearded woodpeckers hold a bird party in a Weeping Boer Bean tree and rhinos bump into each other as they trot past an elephant giving himself a mud bath. Londolozi's four newly refurbished camps and the private Granite Suites all lie along the Sand River. Tree Camp, with its treetop deck, is at one end. At the other is Pioneer Camp, where my suite is bigger than my flat and much better decorated. From the hot tub on my private deck, I bask in the sunshine (a lovely treat as the UK heads into miserable winter) and sip pink Champagne before dinner.Nothing is too much trouble and you're never far away from a feast cooked in front of you in the beautifully appointed dining areas that blend seamlessly into the landscape beyond. Other facilities include yoga classes, a fitness centre and a spa offering massage and reiki healing. I've travelled the world and this is without doubt one of the most exciting places I've been. You'll want to stay forever.

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fEATurES

AFRICAN ICONS

Forcing The Broadway To The Shrine Truth By Olusegun Paul

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According to felaonbroadway.com, FELA! is the most critically acclaimed new musical of the season, received three 2010 Tony Awards®: Best Choreography, Best Costume Design for a Musical and Best Sound Design of a Musical! His story inspired a nation. His music inspires the world. FELA! tells the true story of the legendary Nigerian musician Fela Kuti, whose soulful Afrobeat rhythms ignited a generation. Motivated by his mother, a civil rights champion, he deﬁed a corrupt and oppressive military government and devoted his life and music to the struggle for freedom and human dignity. FELA! is a triumphant tale of courage, passion and love, featuring Fela Kuti’s captivating music and the visionary direction and choreography of Tony Award winner Bill T. Jones. Everybody say yeah yeah!

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Fela Anikulapo Kuti - The Biography

ela was born Olufela Olusegun Oludotun Ransome-Kuti in Abeokuta, Ogun State, Nigeria into a middle-class family. His mother, Funmilayo Ransome-Kuti was a feminist activist in the anti-colonial movement and his father, Reverend Israel Oludotun Ransome-Kuti, a Protestant minister and school principal, was the first president of the Nigerian Union of Teachers (NUT). His brothers, Beko Ransome-Kuti and Olikoye Ransome-Kuti, both medical doctors, are well known in Nigeria. Fela was a first cousin to the African writer and Nobel laureate Wole Soyinka, the first African to win a Nobel Prize for Literature. Fela was sent to London in 1958 to study medicine but decided to study music instead at the Trinity College of Music. There, he formed the band Koola Lobitos, playing a fusion of jazz and highlife. In 1960, Fela married his first wife, Remilekun (Remi) Taylor, with whom he would have three children (Femi, Yeni, and Sola). In 1963, Fela moved back to Nigeria, re-formed Koola Lobitos and trained as a radio producer for the Nigerian Broadcasting Corporation. He played for some time with Victor Olaiya and his All Stars. In 1967, he went to Ghana to think up a new musical direction. That was when Kuti first

called his music Afrobeat. In 1969, Fela took the band to the United States. There, Fela discovered the Black Power movement through Sandra Smith (now Izsadore)—a partisan of the Black Panther Party—which would heavily inﬂuence his music and political views. He renamed the band Nigeria '70. Soon, the Immigration and Naturalization Service was tipped oﬀ by a promoter that Fela and his band were in the U.S. without work permits. The band then performed a quick recording session in Los Angeles that would later be released as The '69 Los Angeles Sessions. After Fela and his band returned to Nigeria, the band was renamed The Africa '70, as lyrical themes changed from love to social issues. He then formed the Kalakuta Republic, a commune, a recording studio, and a home for many connected to the band that he later declared independent from the Nigerian state. Fela set up a nightclub in the Empire Hotel, named the Afro-Spot and then the Afrika Shrine, where he performed regularly. Fela also changed his middle name to Anikulapo (meaning "he who carries death in his pouch"), stating that his original middle name of Ransome was a slave name. The recordings continued, and the music became more politically motivated. Fela's music became very popular among the Nigerian public and Africans in general. In fact,

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he made the decision to sing in Pidgin English so that his music could be enjoyed by individuals all over Africa, where the local languages spoken are very diverse and numerous. As popular as Fela's music had become in Nigeria and elsewhere, it was also very unpopular with the ruling government, and raids on the Kalakuta Republic were frequent. In 1972, Ginger Baker recorded Strata various with Fela appearing along side Bobby Gass. Around this time, Kuti was becoming more involved in Yoruba religion. In 1977, Fela and the Afrika '70 released the hit album Zombie, a scathing attack on Nigerian soldiers using the zombie metaphor to describe the methods of the Nigerian military. The album was a smash hit with the people and infuriated the government, setting off a vicious attack against the Kalakuta Republic, during which one thousand soldiers attacked the commune. Fela was severely beaten, and his elderly mother was thrown from a window, causing fatal injuries. The Kalakuta Republic was burned, and Fela's studio, instruments, and master tapes were destroyed. Fela claimed that he would have been killed if not for the intervention of a commanding officer as he was being beaten. Fela's response to the attack was to deliver his mother's coffin to the Dodan Barracks in Lagos, General Olusegun Obasanjo's residence, and to write two songs, "Coffin for Head of State" and "Unknown Issue 1

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Despite the massive setbacks, Fela was determined to come back. He formed his own political party, which he called Movement of the People.

Soldier", referencmultaneous wives. The ing the oďŹ&#x192;cial inyear was also marked by quiry that claimed two notorious concerts, the commune had the ďŹ rst in Accra in which been destroyed by riots broke out during the In 1979 he put himself forward song "Zombie", which led an unknown soldier. Fela and his band for President in Nigeria's first elections for more than a to Fela being banned then took residence decade but his candidature was refused. At this time, from entering Ghana. The in Crossroads Hotel Fela created a new band called Egypt '80 and continued second was at the Berlin as the Shrine had Jazz Festival after which to record albums and tour the country. been destroyed most of Fela's musicians along with his comdeserted him, due to rumune. In 1978, Fela married twenty-seven women, many of mours that Fela was planning to use the entire proceeds to whom were his dancers, composers, and singers to mark the fund his presidential campaign. anniversary of the attack on the Kalakuta Republic. Later, he Despite the massive setbacks, Fela was determined to was to adopt a rotation system of keeping only twelve si- come back. He formed his own political party, which he

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called Movement of the People. In 1979 he put himself forward for President in Nigeria's ﬁrst elections for more than a decade but his candidature was refused. At this time, Fela created a new band called Egypt '80 and continued to record albums and tour the country. He further infuriated the political establishment by dropping the names of ITT vice-president Moshood Abiola and then General Olusegun Obasanjo at theMoshood Abiola and then General Olusegun Obasanjo at the end of a hot-selling 25-minute political screed titled "I.T.T. (International Thief-Thief)". In 1984, he was again attacked by the military government, who jailed him on a dubious charge of currency smuggling. His case was taken up by several human-rights groups, and after 20 months, he was released from prison by General Ibrahim Babangida. On his release, he divorced his twelve remaining wives, saying that "marriage brings jealousy and selﬁshness." Once again, Fela continued to release albums with Egypt '80, made a number of successful tours of the United States and Europe and also continued to be politically active. In 1986, Fela performed in Giants Stadium in New Jer-

sey as part of the Amnesty International Conspiracy of Hope concert, sharing the bill with Bono, Carlos Santana, and The Neville Brothers. In 1989, Fela and Egypt '80 released the anti-apartheid Beasts of No Nation album that depicts on its cover U.S. President Ronald Reagan, UK Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher and South African Prime Minister Pieter Willem Botha with fangs dripping blood. His album output slowed in the 1990s, and eventually he stopped releasing albums altogether. In 1993 he and four members of the Afrika '70 organization were arrested for murder. The battle against military corruption in Nigeria was taking its toll, especially during the rise of dictator Sani Abacha. Rumours were also spreading that he was suﬀering from an illness for which he was refusing treatment. On 3 August 1997, Olikoye Ransome-Kuti, already a prominent AIDS activist and former Minister of Health, stunned the nation by announcing his younger brother's death a day earlier from Kaposi's sarcoma which was brought on by AIDS. More than a million people attended Fela's funeral at the site of the old Shrine compound. A new Afrika Shrine has opened since Fela's death in a diﬀerent section of Lagos Nigeria under the supervision of his son Femi Kuti.

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Fela’s Political Views

nikulapo, being a supporter of traditional re- women in the first place. Like in Europe, when a man is marligions and lifestyles,believed that the most ried, when the wife is sleeping, he goes out and have sex important thing for Africans to fight is Euro- around. He should bring the women in the house to live with pean cultural imperialism. He was also a sup- him, and stop running around the streets!" His views toporter of Pan-Africanism and socialism, and wards women are characterized by some as misogynist, with called for a united, democratic African republic. He was a songs like "Mattress" typically cited as evidence. In a more candid supporter of complex example, he human rights, and mocks the aspiration many of his songs are of African women to direct attacks against European standards dictatorships, specifiof “ladyhood” while cally the militaristic govextolling the values of ernments of Nigeria in the market woman in He was also a supporter of the 1970s and 1980s. He his song "Lady". Pan-Africanism and socialism, and called for a united, democratic was also a social comBypassing editorial African Republic. He was a candid supporter of human rights, and mentator, and he criticensorship in Nigeria's cized his fellow Africans many of his songs are direct attacks against dictatorships, specifically predominantly state the militaristic governments of Nigeria in the 1970s and 1980s (especially the upper controlled media, Kuti class) for betraying trabegan in the 1970s buying advertising space in daily and ditional African culture. The African culture he believed in also included having weekly newspapers such as The Daily Times and The Punch many wives (polygamy) and the Kalakuta Republic was in order to run outspoken political columns. Published formed in part as a polygamist colony. He defended his throughout the 1970s and early 1980s under the title Chief stance on polygamy with the words "A man goes for many

Anikulapo, being a supporter of traditional religions and lifestyles,believed that the most important thing for Africans to fight is European cultural imperialism.

Fela’s Music

frobeat is his music, which is a complex fusion of Jazz, Funk (especially the music of James Brown), Ghanaian/Nigerian High-life, psychedelic rock, and traditional West African chants and rhythms. Afrobeat also borrows heavily from the native "tinker pan" Africanstyle percussion that Kuti acquired while studying in Ghana with Hugh Masakela, under the uncanny Hedzoleh Soundz. The importance of the input of Tony Allen (Fela's drummer of twenty years) in the creation of Afrobeat cannot be overstated. Fela once famously stated that, "without Tony Allen, there would be no Afrobeat". Afrobeat is characterized by a fairly large band with many instruments, vocals, and a musical structure featuring jazzy, funky horn sections. The "endless groove" is used, in which a base rhythm of drums, shekere, muted West African style guitar, and melodic

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AFRICAN ICONS

Priest Say, these columns were essentially extensions of Kuti's famous Yabi Sessionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;consciousness-raising word-sound rituals, with himself as chief priest, conducted at his Lagos nightclub. Organized around a militantly Afrocentric rendering of history and the essence of black beauty, Chief Priest Say focused on the role of cultural hegemony in the continuing subjugation of Africans. Kuti addressed a number of topics, from explosive denunciations of the Nigerian Government's criminal behavior; Islam and Christianity's exploitative nature, and evil multinational corporations; to deconstructions of Western medicine, Black Muslims, sex, pollution, and poverty.

bass guitar riffs are repeated throughout the song. Commonly, interlocking melodic riffs and rhythms are introduced one by one, building the groove bitby-bit and layer-by-layer to an astonishing melodic and polyrhythmic complexity. The horn section then becomes prominent, introducing other riffs and main melodic themes. Felaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s band was notable for featuring two baritone saxophones, whereas most groups were using only one of these instruments. This is a common technique in African and African-influenced musical styles, and can be seen in funk

Fela was a great Dancer with great steps. He has a perticular way to move, he had his own style just because of the beatings he recieved from the police

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Fela who? On Broadway?

hose are basic questions that “Fela!” faced when it opened last year. The show has moved from a widely praised Oﬀ Broadway production in 2010 at 37 Arts, to the larger and more mainstream realm of the Broadway musical — from 299 seats to 1,050. Amid theaters ﬁlled with more recognizable fare — movie adaptations, revivals, jukebox musicals — “Fela!” seems downright quixotic. Although the music that Fela invented, Afrobeat, and the central events of “Fela!” are familiar to Africans, in the United States Fela (as Kuti is usually called) is largely unknown except by African-music devotees and fans of political music.

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“We have an uphill battle,” said Stephen Hendel, the producer who started the project, “because we don’t have a recognized star, and Fela is an international artist and musician who’s outside the mainstream of American culture.” The goal “Fela!” has set for itself is to be true to his music and his impact while reaching a Broadway musical audience. It is, inevitably, a translation, but one governed more by respect and ambition than by show-business routine. “Fela!” juggles the conﬂicting demands of Mr. Jones’s own artistic leanings — in a celebrated career that has often pondered history, race and sexuality — and the commercial imperatives of Broadway, where theatergoers’ idea of African music might begin

and end with “The Lion King.” There’s also the legacy of Fela himself, well documented in recordings and ﬁlms from the 1970s until his death in 1997, that is cherished by fans for whom he was already a musical and cultural hero. “There are people who, when they heard we were going to make a musical about him, were very upset,” Mr. Jones recalled. “Because Fela’s underground, and Broadway’s mainstream.” That shifted with the Oﬀ Broadway production last year. Early in its run Ahmir (Questlove) Thompson, the drummer for the Roots — the long-running hip-hop group that is now the house band for “Late Night With Jimmy Fallon” — saw an early preview that prompted him to write a post for

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his mailing list and his blog declaring “Fela!” to be “the BEST MUSICAL EVER CREATED.” Celebrities, from Alicia Keys to Susan Sarandon to Stephen Sondheim to Jay-Z, began showing up nightly; word of mouth spread exponentially. Longtime Broadway producers wanted to sign on, but Mr. Hendel was leery of pressures that they might bring to make the show “more quote Broadway unquote,” he said. Now Jay-Z is among the producers, and Mr. Thompson is an associate producer. A rebellious, police-taunting, raunchy, politically conscious, dope-smoking character like Fela could easily make headway in hip-hop culture — and he has the beats to back him up. Reviewing the Oﬀ Broadway production last year for The New York Times, Ben Brantley called it “one helluva

and hip hop. Fela’s bands at times even performed with two bassists at the same time, both playing interlocking melodies and rhythms. There were always two or more guitarists. The electric West African style guitar in Afrobeat bands are paramount, but are used to give basic structure, playing a repeating chordal/melodic statement, riff, or groove. Some elements often present in Fela's music are the call-andresponse within the chorus and figurative but simple lyrics. Fela's songs were also very long, at least 10–15 minutes in length, and many reaching the 20 or even 30 minutes, while some unreleased tracks would last up to 45 minutes when performed live. This was one of many reasons that his music never reached a substantial degree of popularity outside Africa. His LP records frequently had one 30 minute track per side. Typically there is an instrumental “introduction” jam part of the song, perhaps 1015 minutes long before Fela starts singing the “main” part. His songs were mostly sung in Nigerian pidgin, although he also performed a few songs in the Yoruba language. Fela's main instruments were the saxophone and the keyboards, but he also played thetrumpet, electric guitar, and took the occasional drum solo. Fela refused to perform songs again after he had already recorded them, which also hindered his popularity outside Africa. Fela was known for his showmanship, and his concerts were often quite outlandish and wild. He referred to his stage act as the Underground Spiritual Game. Fela attempted making a

movie but lost all the materials to the fire that was set to his house by the military government in power. Kuti thought that art, and thus his own music, should have political meaning. Knitting Factory was hardly the first to repackage segments of Fela’s output; several key titles were reissued by Rykodisc, among others. These 13 CDs represent the last 24 of the 45 albums licensed to Universal Music Group and, most likely, the last large-scale reissuing of Fela material we’ll see in the US market. There will be occasional

releases, and surely a number of gems that remain undigitized at this point, especially from Fela’s first decade as a leader. But unless someone goes crazy and opts to put all this stuff together into one gigantic box set, these will surely be the definitive versions of these recordings for some time. The “Chop ‘N Quench” package (which includes ten albums recorded in the early ‘70s) starts at $39.99 for the full digital download; $59.99 buys all the digital downloads, plus hard copies of the six CDs. The Deluxe Package ($89.99) includes all that, plus bonuses well worth the extra 30 bucks: a limited-edition screen print of

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the Best of the Black President album cover, as well as a copy of Carlos Moore’s acclaimed biography, Fela: This Bitch of a Life. Nice, huh? Well, it gets better. The “Na Poi” batch (seven CDs recorded from 1971-77) also downloads digitally for $39.99, with archival copies also available for $20 more; $79.99 gets all that, plus a Fela t-shirt. Fela’s march to musical immortality has taken major steps forward in just the past year. He was one of three music legends featured in The Messengers project, a series of three EPs issued simultaneously by the Somali-American rapper K’Naan and J. Period, a Brooklyn DJ who constructed beats from the original tracks. The other “messengers” (in the sense of being musical prophets) were Bob Marley and Bob Dylan, and while those EPs are plenty nice, the project peaks with the Fela stuff, while overall it marks its creators’ highest-profile achievement yet. Fela has also been recently paired with another dearly departed master: erstwhile “King of Pop” Michael Jackson, whose suspicious death in June 2009 crashed several major websites, blew up every search engine and social media tool, and precipitated a complete sell-out of all of his recordings on Amazon and iTunes. Fela’s formula for success was solid: an infectious backbeat punctuated by tight brass, with the leader’s saxophone out front. His lyrics were witty, profane and almost lethally incisive, sung usually in English for maximum global impact. One could just as easily ignore the politics of his message, treating the words as just another layer of sound, but in doing so one runs the

risk of missing what made Fela’s music so special: it was the sound of a revolution that never quite happened, at least not exactly as he’d wished. His was one of the most important voices articulating the conditions of people living under a military dictatorship in Nigeria funded and back by Shell Oil. Recorded in 1968 and 69, Koola Lobitos/The ’69 L.A. Sessions represent some of the oldest Fela stuff on-record, and it makes an ideal starting point for neophytes. Koola Lobitos was the band’s original name; it would be soon changed to Nigeria 70, later Africa 70. Koola Lobitos is Fela’s sound at its purest, before much of the sadness, anger and despair that colored a lot of his later work; you can hear it, from track to track, as Highlife becomes Afrobeat. The songs are also all relatively short. Highlights include “Omuti Tide”, “Laise Lairo”, “Witchcraft”, and the scorching “Wayo” (version 1). A song like “Obe” stands as one of the earliest examples of what Fela’s experimentation would ultimately yield. (You could then add Roforofo Fight/The Fela Singles, or the Best of the Black President comp, to hear what the band became.) Shakara/London Scene (1972) has a noticeably dark vibe—grimy, almost menacing. If some Fela albums are really just about having a good time, this most certainly is not. While not overtly political in content, it carries an air of danger throughout. Maybe Fela, in Britain, was able to relax a bit, take brief distance from the lethality of the politics of Nigeria and blow off some steam. The horns carry the day, like high-beams punching through the London fog; note the four-note theme that punctuates the

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party.” He added, “In giving physical life to Mr. Kuti’s he forged in the early ’70s, combined African rhythms songs of poand messages litical rage, with the jazz and sorrow and funk that Fela absatire, Mr. sorbed during his Jones and education in company Britain and the offer exciting United States. Afrobeat, the style he forged in the early ’70s, combined music and its Ghanaian highAfrican rhythms and messages with the jazz and funk social context life, Nigerian in one breath.” Yoruba rhythms, Afro-Cuban mambos, James Brown, In Africa, Fela, who died at 58 of complications from John Coltrane, Nina Simone and, yes, Frank Sinatra all AIDS, is a figure to rival Bob Marley as both a musical in- flowed into his music, which sounds exactly like none novator and a symbol of resistance. Afrobeat, the style of them.

In Africa, Fela, who died at 58 of complications from AIDS, is a figure to rival Bob Marley as both a musical innovator and a symbol of resistance.

title track. “Who’re You” (also sampled for the Messengers) has some nice keyboard work, too. “Buy Africa” (also mashed-up online, with Dorrough vox) is a signature piece. Most of the Fela albums recorded in the 1970s have certain standard features. They usually have two tracks, one on each side, sometimes two on Side B. The albums are usually named after its first track, which tends to stick pretty up-tempo, whereas the B-sides are decidedly slower, more reflective in tone, almost dub-like. It’s still not entirely clear exactly how many records were released in Fela’s lifetime, and some were sparsely distributed. On Ebay, vintage Fela LPs are selling now for up to $500. Fela had the ability to record basically whenever he wanted, with facilities on hand and most of his key personnel pretty close. More casual fans, the types who have just recently discovered Fela through the musical, are in for a time-consuming treat, picking and choosing individual selections starting with those mentioned above. Fela himself would surely be pleased to see the exponential growth of his posthumous reputation. When the day of true freedom and real democracy in Nigeria finally comes, it will stand as tribute not only to him, but to all his friends and family who suffered and died to make it happen. And after a new government is sworn in, people will play “Zombie”, loud, and laugh.

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The FELA Revival

n recent years there has been a revitalization of Fela's inﬂuence on music and popular culture, culminating in another full re-release of his catalogue controlled by Universal Music, oﬀ-and-on Broadway biopic shows, and new bands, such as Antibalas, who carry the Afrobeat banner to a new generation of listeners. In 1999, Universal Music France, under the aegis of Francis Kertekian, remastered the 45 albums that it controlled and released them on twenty-six compact discs. These titles were licensed to other territories of the world with the exception of Nigeria and Japan, where Fela's music was controlled by other companies. In 2005, Universal Music USA licensed all of its so-called world-music titles to the UK-based label Wrasse Records, which repackaged the same twenty-six CDs for distribution in the USA (replacing the MCA-issued titles there) and the

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UK. In 2009, Universal created a new deal for the USA with Knitting Factory Records, which included the release of the Fela! Broadway cast album. Thomas McCarthy's 2007 ﬁlm The Visitor depicted a disconnected professor (Oscar nominee Richard Jenkins) who wanted to play the djembe. He learns from a young Jordanian (Haaz Sleiman) who tells the professor he will never truly understand African music unless he listens to Fela. The ﬁlm features clips of Fela's "Open and Close" and "Je'nwi Temi (Don't Gag Me)." On August 18, 2009, award winning DJ J.Period released a free mixtape to the general public via his website that was a collaboration with Somali-born hip hop artist K'naan paying tribute to Fela, Bob Marley and Bob Dylan entitled The Messengers. In October 2009, Knitting Factory Records began the process of re-releasing the 45 titles that Universal Music www.nomadquarterly.com

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controls, starting with yet another re-release of the compilation The Best of the Black President in the USA. In 2008, aBroadway production of Fela Kuti's life titled Fela! began with a collaborative workshop between the Afrobeat band Antibalas and Tony award winner Bill T. Jones. The show was a massive success, selling out shows during its run, and garnering much critical acclaim. On November 22, 2009, Fela! began a run on Broadway at the Eugene O'Neill Theatre. Jim Lewis helped co-write the play (along with Bill T. Jones), and obtained producer backing from Jay-Z, Will Smith, Jada Pinkett-Smith, Stephen Hendel, and Stephen Semlitz. The show received rave reviews from The New York Times, saying that the musical "[Fela!] doesn't so much tell a story as soak an audience to and through the skin with the musical style and sensibility practiced by its leading man." Sahr Ngaujahand Kevin Mambo share/alternate the magnetic lead role, and Antibalas continues to provide the music, taking on the role of the Nigeria 70. On May 4, 2010, Fela! was nominated for 11 Tony Awards, including Best Musical, Best Book

of a Musical, Best Direction of a Musical for Bill T. Jones, Best Leading Actor in a Musical for Sahr Ngaujah, and Best Featured Actress in a Musical for Lillias White.

The Truce

ela is bigger than Fela!® His legacies are heroic; his biopics are meteoric and very unique. Despite the success of the Broadway theatrical performances, Nigerians can never quantify the immense inputs of the Reverend’s son to the attainment of democratic rule. While Fela!® told a story and entertained Americans, Fela wasn’t an entertainer, he was a freedom fighter that ensured that the shed tears of the masses were not in vain. He put himself in arms way, challenged dictators with fierce confidence. He risked his life, got his mother injured and had his republic torched. Yet he held his head (and hemp)high. This is something that Fela!® can never explain. Fela is a spirit, just like his nickname – Abami eda (the mysterious creature). He lives on.

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FEATURES INVESTIGATION

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Uganda’s War on Gays Paul Adepoju

Two weeks, three days, four hours and ﬁve minutes after I interviewed him in a restaurant in kampala, Uganda’s strongest and most vocal homosexual, David Kato, had a strange guests in his apartment. He was hit several times on the head before he passed out. The government’s stance on homosexuality is clear, no arrest was made. David in his last interview saw it coming and he was quite prepared to defend his sexuality with the last drop of blood in his veins.

ttitudes toward homosexual behaviour have varied with time and place. In ancient Greece, homosexual relations were accepted and, in some cases, expected activity in certain segments of society. Later attitudes toward homosexuality in the Western world were determined largely by prevailing Judeo-Christian moral codes, which treat homosexuality as immoral or sinful. But like many other sins, homosexual relations were seen as expressions of the weakness inherent in all human beings, and not as a mental disorder or as the behaviour of a speciﬁc type of person. The latter view, which regarded homosexuality as a pathology, developed in the late 19th century. By the beginning of the 20th century, psychoanalysts viewed homosexuals as the victims of faulty development. Austrian physician Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanaly-

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FEATURES INVESTIGATION

“

Ugandan legislation in its current form would mandate a death sentence for active homosexuals living with HIV or in cases of same-sex rape. "Serial offenders" also could face capital punishment, but the legislation does not define the term. Anyone convicted of a homosexual act faces life imprisonment.

sis, considered homosexuality a deviant condition. More recently, scientists have searched for a biological explanation of sexual orientation. A study published in 1993 sought to identify a genetic marker for sexual orientation. The research, which did not include a cross section of the population, was inconclusive. During the first half of the 20th century, attitudes toward homosexuality were overwhelmingly negative. Homosexual activities were hidden and spoken of only in whispers, and homosexual behaviour, even among consenting adults, was a criminal offense in most of the United States. Homosexuals were subject to stereotypes and prejudice. Gay men were viewed as effeminate, lesbians were portrayed as mannish, and both were seen as being obsessed with sex, with little self-control or morality. Homosexuals frequently were thought to be potential child molesters. In the 1930s and during World War II (19391945), homosexuals were targets of persecution in Nazi Germany. Prejudices against homosexuals in Western societies have only recently begun to change. The first major shift followed the publication of two famous reports, Sexual Behaviour in the Human Male (1948) and Sexual Behaviour in the Human Female (1952),

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by American biologist Alfred Charles Kinsey. Although these works contained inflated estimates of the homosexual population and the incidence of behaviour, they provided a more realistic picture of homosexuality and helped demystify it. Unlike earlier studies which focused on homosexuals who had sought medical or psychological help, the Kinsey reports described homosexuals outside of clinical settings. Kinsey found homosexuals in all walks of life, growing up in all kinds of families, practicing many different religions. As a result of the ensuing scientific discussion, the American Psychiatric Association in 1973 eliminated homosexuality from its list of mental illnesses and, in 1980, dropped it from its Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM).

Uganda’s New Gay Law roposed legislation would impose the death penalty for some gay Ugandans, and their family and friends could face up to seven years in jail if they fail to report them to authorities. Even landlords could be imprisoned for renting to homosexuals. Gay-rights activists say the bill,

which has prompted growing international oppos i t i o n , promotes hatred and could set back efforts to combat HIV/AIDS. They believe the bill is part of a continent wide backlash because Africa's gay community is becoming more vocal. "It's a question of visibility," said David Cato, who became an activist after he was beaten up four times, arrested twice, ﬁred from his teaching job and touted in the press because he is gay. "When we come out and ask for our rights, they pass laws against us." The legislation has drawn global attention from activists across the spectrum of views on gay issues. The measure was proposed in Uganda following a visit by leaders of U.S. conservative Christian ministries that promote therapy for gays to become heterosexual. However, at least one of those leaders has denounced the bill, as have some other conservative and liberal Christians in the United

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could undergo changes before a vote, which hasn't yet been set. But gayrights activists abroad are focusing on the legislation. A protest against the bill is planned for Thursday in London; protests were held last month in New York and Washington.

Inﬂuenced by Western lifestyle? avid Bahati, the legislator sponsoring the bill, said he was encouraging "constructive criticism" to improve the law but insisted strict measures were necessary to stop homosexuals from "recruiting" schoolchildren. "The youths in secondary schools copy everything from the Western world and America," said high school teacher David Kisambira. "A good number of students have been converted into gays. We hear there are groups of people given money by some gay organizations in developed countries to recruit youth into gay activities." Uganda's ethics minister, James Nsaba Buturo, said the death sentence clause would probably be reviewed but maintained the law was necessary to counter foreign inﬂuence. He said homosexuality "is not natural in Uganda," a view echoed by some Ugandans. "I feel that the bill is good and necessary, but I don't think gays should be killed. They should be imprisoned for about a year and warned never to do it again. The family is in danger in Uganda because the rate at which vice is spreading is appalling," said

D States. The Ugandan legislation in its current form would mandate a death sentence for active homosexuals living with HIV or in cases of same-sex rape. "Serial oﬀenders" also could face capital punishment, but the legislation does not deﬁne the term. Anyone convicted of a homosexual act faces life imprisonment. Anyone who "aids, abets, counsels or procures another to engage of acts of homosexuality" faces seven years in prison if convicted. Landlords who rent rooms or homes to homosexuals also could get seven years and anyone with "religious, political, economic or social authority" who fails to report anyone violating the act faces three years. The bill is still being debated and

shopkeeper John Muwanguzi. Uganda is not the only country considering anti-gay laws. Nigeria, where homosexuality is already punishable by imprisonment or death, is considering strengthening penalties for activities deemed to promote it. Burundi just banned same-sex relationships and Rwanda is considering it. Homophobia is rife even in more tolerant African countries. In Kenya, homosexuality is illegal but the government has acknowledged its existence by launching sexual orientation survey to improve health care. Nevertheless, the recent marriage of two Kenyan men in London caused outrage. The men's families in Kenya were harassed by reporters and villagers. In South Africa, the only African nation to recognize gay marriage, gangs carry out so-called "corrective" rapes on lesbians. A 19-year-old lesbian athlete was gang-raped, tortured and murdered in 2008. Debate over the Ugandan bill follows a conference in Kampala earlier this year attended by American activists who consider same-gender relationships sinful, and believe gays and lesbians can become heterosexual through prayer and counselling. Author Don Schmierer and "sexual reorientation coach" Caleb Lee Brundidge took part; they did not respond to interview requests. A third American who took part in the conference in Uganda, Scott Lively, said the bill has gone too far. "I agree with the general goal but this law is far too harsh," said Lively, a California-based preacher and author of "The Pink Swastika" and other books

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FEATURES INVESTIGATION

Dozens of demonstrators gathered outside the Ugandan Embassy in London to call for a repeal of the country’s anti-homosexuality legislation. that advise parents how to "recruitproof" their children from gays. "Society should actively discourage all sex outside of marriage and that includes homosexuality ... The family is under threat," he said. Gay people "should not be parading around the streets," he added. 'It will drive people to suicide' rank Mugisha, a gay Ugandan human rights activist, said the bill was so poorly worded that someone could be imprisoned for giving a hug. "This bill is promoting hatred," he said. "We're turning Uganda into a police state. It will drive people to suicide." Buturo played down the inﬂuence

of foreign evangelicals, saying the proposed legislation was an expression of popular outrage against "repugnant" practices. But activists like Cato argue anti-gay attitudes are a foreign import. "In the beginning, when the missionaries brought religion, they said they were bringing love," he said. "Instead they brought hate, through homophobia." Susan Timberlake, a senior adviser on human rights and law from UNAIDS, said such laws could hinder the ﬁght against HIV/AIDS by driving people further underground. And activists also worry that the legislation could be used to blackmail or silence government critics. Cato said he thinks the Ugandan bill will pass, perhaps in an altered form.

"It's such a setback. But I hope we can overcome it," he said. "I cannot believe this is happening in the 21st century." Uganda's proposed Anti-Homosexuality Bill (also known as the "Kill the Gays Bill") if enacted, would broadens the criminalisation of same-sex relations by introducing the death penalty for people who have previous convictions, are HIV-positive, or engage in sexual acts with people of the same sex or for adults who do so with those under 18 years of age.The bill also includes provisions for Ugandans who engage in same-sex sexual relations outside of Uganda, asserting that they may be extradited for punishment back to Uganda, and includes penalties for individuals, companies, media organisations, or non-governmental organisations that support LGBT rights. Homophobia is rampant in Uganda and is thought to have been one of the causes of the bill.

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Beauty Tricks That Make Guys Melt These hot hair and makeup tips will make his blood pressure rise. Read on for the beauty tricks dudes fall for every time. by Amber Kallor

Use blue eye makeup to amp up your bedroom eyes. Break out of a black-and-gray eye makeup rut by swapping in a navy eye shadow for a more subtle and sophisticated smoky eye. Apply color to both your lid and lower lash line, and then gently blend. (Hint: Remove any dark shadow from your brow bone with a Q-tip to avoid verging into Snooki territory.)

Flash him your sexyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and bright!â&#x20AC;&#x201D;smile. A killer smile is always a foolproof way to get his attention. To brighten up your teeth, try Crest 3D White strips, and highlight the apples of your cheeks with a glowy cream blush.

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Add some strategic shimmer to the—ahem—girls. Not all of us are blessed with Halle Berry’s gorgeous body, but we can steal her sparkly secret! Dust shimmer—not heavy glitter—on the top of your décolletage, in a capital T shape. For an even bigger boost, trace bronzer around the inside of each breast to enhance your cleavage— minus the push-up bra. Be warned: After working a little beauty magic, you may have to pull out the old “Eyes up here, mister!” expression.

Try the fail-proof combo of dewy skin and sexy heels. “I can never resist my girlfriend when she’s in a pair of high heels and a sexy dress that flatters her naturally amazing shape. It may seem simple, but it works like a charm every time,” says John Pels, 23. If you plan to show a little (or a lot of!) leg like bombshell Blake Lively, catch the light and his attention with a shimmery moisturizing lotion. Try Benefit Cosmetics Bathina “Take a Picture It Lasts Longer” Body Balm, which gives skin a sexy golden-pink sheen.

Make your lips extra kissable.

A fire-engine red lip will definitely make him do a double take, but leaving your mark all over his face will likely remind him of his over-affectionate aunt—probably not the impression you were trying to leave. To get lip color that lasts, layer different textures, says makeup pro Gucci West man. Apply a stain first, like Revlon Just Bitten Lip stain in Flame, swipe a matching lipstick on top, then add another coat of stain. Unless you kiss and tell, your lips (or rather, your lipstick) will be sealed!

Show off your edgy side with a temporary tattoo.

If nothing else, a little ink is a conversation starter, and as Megan Fox demonstrates, guys dig a girl who walks on the wild side. Relationships aren’t always permanent, so make sure his initials aren’t either! Get your bad-girl vibe on for a night, then rinse it all off and play innocent in the morning.

Be your naturally gorge

self. Work the sexy, slightly unkempt “I love it when my girlfriend curls up bun. on the couch in her pajamas,” says

Take an all-business up do down a few notches by pulling out a few faceframing strands of hair for a soft, romantic look. Bend them around a curling iron and add a side part for even more sexiness. Pair pretty hair with Zoe Saldana’s coy, come-hither smile and you’ll have him wrapped around your little finger in no time!

Use highlighter to get your glow on.

Get bed head waves the lazy- Use a fan brush to create a C girl way. shape—start at the inner corner of the Forget the gym ponytail—nothing says sexy like big, bouncy waves. “It’s surprising how many women have natural texture and always run for the blow-dryer,” says hairstylist Guido. His tip: Go to bed with damp hair. The next day, before a night on the prowl, wind a few sections around a curling iron and finger-comb. Easy!

eye, swoop it over the brow bone and onto your cheekbone—then do the other side. Finish by running a little down the bridge of your nose, your chin and above the middle of your lips. Set it off with eyelashes guaranteed to make him swoon; apply a few false lash clusters to the outer corners of your eyes.

John Kline, 34. Stay casually cute, like Vanessa Hudgens, by swiping on a nude lip gloss (we like Neutrogena MoistureShine Lip Soother in Shimmer) and adding a spritz of your signature perfume in a few key places—behind the knees, inner thighs, wrists, behind the ears and in your hair. Whether you’re wearing a miniskirt or sweats, letting your personality shine through is the biggest turn-on of all!

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FEATURES

SPECIAL REPORT

Fengai (left), whose legs have been affected by Polio, has lived on the streets with other disabled children for 10 years after being rejected by his family.

Stigma and ignorance make life hard for the disabled street children of Sierra Leone, but there are signs this is changing, reports Libby Powell.

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Beyond beliefs I n an abandoned yard in central Freetown, a young man is making his way through the shadows of two burnt-out cars. His legs are buckled by polio into a knot beneath him and he pulls himself forward on his ﬁsts. His name is Fengai, he is 21, and this is his home: a neglected community of disabled street children in one of Sierra Leone's forgotten corners. "This," Fengai spits out, "is a bomeh, a dumping ground, for rubbish and for the crippled." He gestures around at a gathering of tiny broken huts. A crude tattoo on his arm spells out "Go Arsenal". "There are more than 50 of us here and we have nothing. No water, no food. They are sick, these boys, but who will help them? Go home," he shouts, "and tell them that we are living in misery!" Fengai is shaking with frustration and anger. But after 10 years as a disabled street child in one of the world's poorest countries, he knows his voice is heard by few. The United Nations estimates as many as 30% of street children in Sierra Leone are disabled. Many have been outcast be-

cause of their disability, chased into the shadows by social stigma and family shame. On the streets they are exposed to disease, abuse and hunger. Yet often the streets are safer than home. The belief that disability is caused by sin, voodoo or black magic is deeply entrenched in Sierra Leone, especially in the rural provinces. Without the most basic health awareness, misconceptions about the causes of disability can thrive. Such beliefs can ignite fear in a community and inflict terror on an already vulnerable child. In the worst cases, it can lead to neglect, abandonment or infanticide. Eleven years of civil war in Sierra Leone brought about an increase in disability. Thousands of young people suffered, both as a result of forced amputations – the tragic hallmark of the rebel forces – and the collapse of the national health system including childhood immunizations. As vaccinations ceased, disabling diseases such as polio crept back into dilapidated villages and overcrowded slums, mainly affecting children under the age of five. Professor Osman Bah, West Africa

regional programme manager of Leonard Cheshire Disability, is no stranger to this suﬀering. He contracted polio in his formative years and has struggled throughout his life against the prejudice that can destroy lives. He now supports hundreds of young people like Fengai, who have been rejected by their communities because of their disability. On the risks facing disabled young people, he is very clear: "The most dangerous threat is ignorance. Ignorance will keep a disabled child locked away or it will force her out on to the streets. Here in Sierra Leone, parents do not have access to the medical knowledge that teaches them that polio is a disease of poverty caused by a virus and poor sanitation. Instead a child will be taught to hate and fear itself." Traditional healers, rather than a medical professional, are commonly sought to cure children's disabilities. At a centre for epilepsy in east Freetown, a group of women recall their experiences of traditional remedies. Aminata's seizures started as a young child; "I was taken to a juju man. He boiled herbs and I had to inhale the leaves. Afterwards he poured the

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The most dangerous threat is ignorance. Ignorance will keep a disabled child locked away or it will force her out on to the streets.

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mixture into my nose. When it did not work, my family rejected me. They told me the devil had taken hold of me." Dr Max Bangura, who runs the centre, says the practice of traditional healers is often cloaked in secrecy. This can allow a darker side to thrive: "Sexual abuse of young disabled girls is common. A healer may tell the girl that the devil is a jealous spirit and that sexual relations will drive him away. A girl arrived at my centre who had been made pregnant by a healer in this way. When he found out, he said it was the devil's child and forced her to drink kerosene." Some, however, are unable to ďŹ&#x201A;ee. Sitting under a tree in a village in the rural district of Koinadugu, Leonard Cheshire Disability community worker, Alusine Koroma lowers his voice as he speaks of a four-year-old girl with cerebral palsy who was brought before the community elders by her parents. Confused and frustrated by the child's www.nomadquarterly.com

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inability to talk or walk, they proclaimed that the child must be bewitched. To rid the community of this evil, they carried her deep into the forest where they dug a hole and buried her alive. "I am afraid this is common," says Koroma sadly, "and it rarely makes the news." Dominic O'Neill, head of the UK Department for International Development in Sierra Leone, has watched the spotlight move away from the region as the child soldiers of the civil war are reintegrated and the conďŹ&#x201A;ict recedes. "The plight of vulnerable children in Sierra Leone continues and we cannot stop working to protect their rights, especially for those children with disabilities." With less than a third of the population able to read or write, however, the spread of information needed to change attitudes is slow. But inside a radio station in the northern town of Kabala, 23-year-old Elizabeth Katta is preparing to speed things up. For the last two years she has been campaigning for awareness as part of Leonard Cheshire Disability's Young Voices programme, which empowers young people with disabilities to become agents of change in their communities. In 2009, Young Voices successfully lobbied the Sierra Leonean government to ratify the United Nations Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. At the dawn of a new chapter of post-war governance, this small group of young people grabbed the chance to initiate change for those with disabilities across the country. Each member of Young Voices has their own story of courage to share. Elizabeth, for instance, knows she is lucky to be here. Her eyes harden as she speaks of the chronic neglect she suďŹ&#x20AC;ered at the hands of her mother. Abused and starved, she was told she would amount to nothing. Today, after an hour on the microphone at the radio station, her face is shining. With the same force of youth as Fengai, she shouts out, "The time for action is now! We have been hidden for too long. We are here and we speak for the voiceless." "I was not born blind," says Agnes. "When I was 13, I contracted a pox, which went into my eyes. I was taken to the hospital but it was to no avail. They spoke to us of African mischief [voodoo] so I was taken to the traditional herbalist. He rubbed herbs into my eyes. In the process my eyes went out." As Agnes struggled to adjust to her life without sight, her mother also struggled to cope. "When I became blind, I lost my mother's love. She would leave me so hungry; she did nothing to care for me. I only survived with the help of neighbours." When the rebels came during the civil war, Agnes's

mother gathered her daughters and ran. Agnes was left behind. Unable to follow, she sat in the empty house and listened in terror as people raced past. A voice inside told her that she would die if she stayed there. "So I crawled to the door and waited. As soon as I heard somebody I grabbed hold of that person and hung on. We ran. Later I was found and taken to a church in Freetown." After the war, Agnes was enrolled in school, where she learned to read braille. Eight years later, she is about to start university. With the Young Voices programme, she has spoken out about disability rights to audiences across the country. She has also forgiven her mother.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;

â&#x20AC;&#x153;African people love fashion and I am no exception, all the experiences and places I have been to, come through in my designs. I am glad to be designing clothing during this period when African fashion is evolving. More and more our fashions are being showcased on world stages. For the first time we are seeing designers from all across the continent making their mark. I think we are going to see more designers making a visible mark in the world stage. We have something to say to the world, and soon the will find it hard to ignore.â&#x20AC;?

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ccording to fashion designer Gugu M l a m b o Msomi, Africa and fashion are kind of like Oreos and milk: they're made for each other. The designer is most memorable for her nomination of SAFTA South African Film and Television Award and award for Best Wardrobe in television soap operas, which was so notably consummated and complimented by her visionary creations. With another analogy established, it was clear that Summer-wear and Gugu Mlambo Msomi are kind of like Anna Wintour and Vogue: they’re made for each other. The Summer-Msomi duo showed their compatibility this season at Sanlam South African Fashion Week by building blocks from basics in the obsession-worthy Gugulam collection. Gugulam, a zulu name meaning ”my treasure”, draws its source from the depth African continent, in South Africa, is a dynamic and vibrant brand in the fashion design world. It is a cultural experience that embodies and epitomizes a rich and divergent elegance. Gugulam entails amazing patterns and colors that reach out, embracing a variety of world cultures. Gugulam was established in 2008. Gugulam is luxury brand that shows of the fun and quality in design. It was created for the discerning fashIssue 1

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Gugulam is luxury brand that shows of the fun and quality in design. It was created for the discerning fashion buyer. For women who love timeless classy clothing and still hold true to quality in their lifestyle. We at Gugulam are inspired by the world at large. We love culture and embrace diversity. From our own heritage we merge with other cultures to create the Gugulam brand. Our clothes are created for

women who are adventurous who are not afraid to try new things but come from a history of all things wonderful. ion buyer. For women who love timeless classy clothing and still hold true to quality in their lifestyle. We at Gugulam are inspired by the world at large. We love culture and embrace diversity. From our own heritage we merge with other cultures to create the Gugulam brand. Our clothes are created for women who are adventurous who are not afraid to try new things but come from a history of all things wonderful. They are particular as to the type of clothing they are associated with. We create tools for women; if they choose to be dressed for work we have something in store for them. As Msomi has showcased in movies, soap operas, and runways, the world has seen it all. This season she wanted to enliven her fansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; style as she preached an expression of freedom. To think,after landing a position as the Head of Wardrobe for television soap

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BEHIND THE SCENE Written By: Nani Hapa

ashion designer Gugu Mlambo Msomi hails from a family of creative women. With a dressmaker grandmother and an interior designer mother, Gugu naturally gravitated towards a design career, getting training in many related fields such as window dressing and styling, until 2008 when she took the plunge and launched her own range, Gugulam.

Gugu shares, "I worked in several movies and soaps in their wardrobe departments. Until I landed a position as the Head of Wardrobe for television soap calledGenerations, the biggest television shows on South African television. During that time I learnt a lot about women and clothing and the type of message I wanted to send out. I was able to get a lot of feedback from the viewers and from that I made a decision that I would no longer make clothes for make belief but rather for real life women. That is how Gugulam came to life. In 2008 I decide to set up my own lifestyle brand. In September 2009 we launched at Sanlam South African Fashion Week. Gugulam means my treasure; we believe that everything that comes out of Gugulam is a little piece of our treasure to you." The line is strong, modern and edgy; Gugu shares, "I design for the freethinking woman however fashion as I now have come to learn, is what I was born to do. Before I knew it people called in to have me style their music videos. I worked with various artists such as Sibongile Khumalo, Judith Sephuma, Umanji, Magic System a French based group. Les Nubians, Lucky Dube and my personal favorite Lady Smith Black Mabhazo to name but a few. The spin off from this were television adverts, I too was able to feature in one a detergent ad for Surf. As anyone in the arts would know word gets around, I soon started working on magazine gigs. I styled for a few magazines then became a fashion stylist for Soul magazine. I worked in several movies and soaps in their wardrobe departments. Until I landed a position as the Head of Wardrobe for television soap called Generations, the biggest television shows on South African television. During that time I learnt a lot about women and clothing and the type of message I wanted to send out. I was able to get a lot of feedback from the viewers and from that I made a decision that I would no longer make clothes for make belief but rather for real life women. That is how Gugulam came to life. In 2008 I decide to set up my own lifestyle brand. In September 2009 we launched at Sanlam South African Fashion Week. Gugulam means my treasure; we believe that everything that comes out of Gugulam is a little piece of our treasure to you. Look out for Gugulam as we turn our brand into the brand of choice for cultures the world over.

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called Generations, one of the biggest television shows on South African television, she evolved her embryo in the fashion world. During that time she learned a lot about women and clothing and the type of message she wanted to send out. She was able to get a lot of feedback from the viewers and from that, she made a decision that she would no longer make clothes for make belief but rather for real life women. Something Msomi did, as she defined that something with fluidity and style is what creates the ultimate collection. With a fan base comprised of Sibongile Khumalo, Judith Sephuma, Umanji, Magic System (French based group), Les Nubians, Lucky Dube and Lady Smith Black Mabhazo, her latest collection was a must-see and mustlust-after showcase as it had all the tools ready to work. Msomi’s collection was solidified by her exceptional craft in fashion. It reminded us that basics don’t have to be boring as this fashion architect constructed shimmery outfits with a solid foundation: warm eye-popping tones of sky,ultramarine,apricot,chestnut,camel, and blush. In addition, the infrastructure included subtly luxurious fabrics effusing a sartorial maturity worth emulating. Then, without forgetting to add finishing flourishes she added hair,arm,neck, and ear candy. In such, her aesthetic choices created pillars of fashion expertise. Refined outfits were nailed into from classy dresses, skirts, and trousers as they were recommended in coordinating colors

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and patterns. All of the looks were smart and redefined the meaning for promises in style and comfort. To say, the silhouettes were formfitting in the casual wear and acclaimed the terms “summer collection” and “leisurewear” to glue together fashionable ensembles into a unified structure.

ith her sartorial hard hat on, Msomi did not create clothes that inhibited women as her latest collection was filled to the brim with playfulness and wearable variations with theme. Exuberant ensembles, some of which had exotic prints that looked as though they were sourced from the African heavens and bazaars, added to the chic effect.The resulting looks decidedly amassed an interesting and fashion-forward collection of one-of-a-kind pieces that were worthy of a front-row seat. Confessing a fondness, Gugulam’s tantalizing blend of feminine silhouettes put an obvious focus on diversity, excitement, flavor, and flare. Nonetheless, the brand represents style, longevity, and class. A visual interpretation of spectacular exe-

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cution was this built on a the runway at this season’s Sanlam South African Fashion Week, thus proving that the African brainchild of Gugulam: Gugu Mlambo Msomi can and build a great show from the basics. Inspiration and sophistication derived from Africa, Gugu Mlambo Msomi describes her passion. “...All I knew is that I took a keen interest in observing how people looked and dressed. If I ever described liking a person as a child, it always had to do with what bag she carried, the way her shoes looked or something like, I liked her stockings because they were polka dotted. I have such a vivid memory of how people looked and dressed around me, from the time I was a little girl. Fashion to me is universal, I like it all, I love all the cultures and my creations are depiction of that. As an African I cannot help but love how regal women would look when they are dressed up in their traditional garb.”

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NOMAD BUSINESS FILE

Build an International Brand AMY BARRET

or decades, Coca-Cola and IBM were among the scant few globally-recognized brands. By crafting a universal message and increasing brand awareness, here's how yours can be next. Forty years ago, there were only a handful of truly "global brands" and they were made up of only the biggest corporations -- Coca-Cola, PepsiCo, Colgate-Palmolive, IBM, Shell. Then a rash of upstarts came along, such as Nike, Microsoft, Apple, and Honda, and pushed their brand reputation further than their actual sales footprint. But now that barriers to international trade have come down and the Internet has helped small and mid-sized companies compete on the global stage, building an international brand is a

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realistic goal for more and more businesses. "Only in the last 10 years has global business become the benchmark for how you do business these days," says Hayes Roth, chief marketing officer for Landor Associates, a strategic brand and design consultancy that has worked on international branding with such companies as BP, Panasonic, and KFC. "Thanks to the Internet it's hard to keep your brand just localized. Once you're on the Web, you're accessible pretty much anywhere in the world. It doesn't necessarily make you a global brand but you have to be mindful of the implications." What Is a Global Brand? In starting a new business or seeking to increase growth at your cur-

rent business by expanding into international markets, establishing and building a brand identity becomes essential. Branding involves what people think about your business and your products. "Think of a brand as a reputation," says Paul Williams, founder of the international marketing firm Idea Sandbox, which helps companies build their brands. "Building a reputation in any new market, including overseas, involves a first impression, which comes from the initial interactions someone has with your company, products, and servwww.nomadquarterly.com

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ices." Businesses can attempt to shape or form the branding of their company or products in many ways, including advertising, media, word-of-mouth, and contact with your products or services. A lot of thought and effort goes into branding, including naming products, designing logos, and ensuring that service is uniform throughout the business. Through continued exposure over time, your brand -- or your reputation -- is formed with potential and existing customers. "A brand is essentially a short cut, it is a way for

a customer to get an instant recognition on what the promise is of a product or service and how that will benefit them," Roth says. The reason businesses spent time and money developing brand recognition is so that they can charge a premium for a product or service. People will pay more for a brand name product or service if it is recognized as a leader and a trusted brand and they know what they will get. Apple, for example, can charge more for its computers than some other companies because of its brand reputation for offering innovative de-

sign and quality electronics. The same can be said about Mercedes or BMW automobiles. What You Need to Expand When businesses try to expand their brand globally, those goals donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t change. But there are several steps you should take to make sure that your products or services will have a market overseas, that you can maintain quality in delivering and/or distributing your goods or services, and that your business or product branding meets cultural expectations -- and doesn't insult anyIssue 1

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one -- in different parts of the world. "The secret is doing your homework," Williams says. "Like any long distance relationship, it's got to be managed and needs more work than something you can see and physically touch, but it's not impossible." The following steps may help you in building an international brand: • Make sure you have a market. "Proven success with your current target audience doesn’t automatically mean that your new target will connect in the same way with your products or services," Williams says. "Ask your new market the questions you used to build your initial business plan." First and most important, he says, you’ll want to determine if a market exists for your product. If so, make sure the want or need isn’t already being well met by someone else. If there are existing competitors, what (in the perspective of your potential customers) makes you remarkably different? If there is a market and there are no competitors, make sure you find out why -- are there laws against distributing your products or can consumers buy them through other means? • Make sure you can deliver. Make sure you can get your product

to, or manufactured within, the new market. "Import and manufacturing laws vary from country to country," Williams says. "Ensure you can make your products reliably and consistently available to your new target markets." Investigate the local laws.

In taking these steps to building a brand internationally, it almost always helps to find local resources to help you understand and enter new foreign markets. You might consider entering into business with a local distributor or retailer in this new market. Issue 1 104

You need to make sure your products meet the local standards for construction of components, use of chemicals, disposal of goods, proper labeling of products, etc. • Re-examine your business and/or product names. In choosing a name for your business or product, you need to be culturally sensitive if you intend to sell in foreign markets. Make sure product names make sense to customers in your new markets, both in English and in the local translation. Williams, who has done international branding work with Starbucks, recalls how a holiday favorite in the U.S., the Gingerbread Latte, didn't sell well in Germany even though gingerbread was a favorite holiday www.nomadquarterly.com

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cookie in that country. Sales of the drink increased dramatically when Starbucks began using the German word for gingerbread and rebranded the drink, the Lebkuchen Latte. If you are considering translating names, don't rely on computer translation. "You don’t want what you think is an effective name to mean something opposite or offend potential customers," Williams says. "Work with someone locally who can help make sure you communicate what you intend." • Give your logo another look. Similarly, review your logo to make sure that you don't use any wording or symbols that would offend in a foreign market. "Ensure that any logos or symbols you use make

sense and don’t offend," Williams says. "Do an international search to make sure your logo isn't similar to that of another international company." For example, if you are selling products in some Middle Eastern markets, a logo featuring the face of a woman might not be appropriate. The best way to understand these cultural sensitivities is to consult a branding or design firm -- either a local one or an international firm that can research cultural sensitivities. • Understand packaging requirements. If you're selling a product, you need to consider the laws and customs and packaging requirements in your new markets before deciding on packaging for your products. Your packaging may use a clear plastic shell that hangs from a rod, but your competition may package their product in a box that can go on a shelf, Williams says. This may put you at a disadvantage. "If you're selling a packaged product around the world there are incredible hurdles," Roth adds. Shipping food across borders may require you to provide more nutritional information on packaging, in more languages, and there may be laws prohibiting the use of certain products in some markets -- even New York City has a ban on trans fatty acids, for example. Learn the local standards and ensure your packaging includes any necessary regulatory information and meets transportation standards. • Register trademarks and domain names. Follow the process in your new market to ensure you preserve patent and trademarks. Another consideration is making sure the Internet domain name for your company and product are available. You still want to register a dot-com,

which is the most popular domain worldwide for businesses. But you may also consider registering domains using specific country codes - .nl for the Netherlands or .br for Brazil -- if you are targeting only one or two local markets and plan on providing up-to-date translations of your websites into the local languages. In taking these steps to building a brand internationally, it almost always helps to find local resources to help you understand and enter new foreign markets. You might consider entering into business with a local distributor or retailer in this new market. "It is nearly impossible to understand local culture simply by visiting a country," Williams says. "Find local customers, local translators. Just because you took two years of French in high school doesn’t make you qualified to understand the French market nor do French translations. Building International Brand Awareness The way to build awareness of your brand in these new markets -and increase sales because, let's face it, this is your goal -- follows the same formula you use to increase brand awareness at home. "Craft and communicate a message that is relevant to the needs and wants of your customers," Williams says. "Deliver this message in the places they are receptive to it, in terms they can relate to and understand, and through the channels that will truly reach your potential customer." • Craft your message. Having done your homework and researched the new foreign markets, and perhaps engaged the help of a local firm or representative, you Issue 1

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have hopeful honed your domestic branding for this new audience. Be sure to note what the competition and other businesses are doing. "What may have seemed witty or charming in the U.S. may be misunderstood in your new market," Williams says. "Be careful playing the 'old and established' angle. An 'old' company in the U.S. can sound impressive, but you may be doing business in a country that has bottles of wine and rounds cheese older than your company." • Deliver this message through the right channels. Don't rely on radio advertisements if your new market is a city in which people commute by subway or bicycle. Make sure you are communicating your message where it will be seen. Think about advertising inside the subway. "What are the habits your customer base in that other country? Where are they found? What is their lifestyle? What are they doing?" Williams says. There is no secret answer. It's up to you to connect the dots and find the right approach. • Communicate in the right manner. The manner and tone in which you engage your potential

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and new customers is as important as the words you choose, Williams says. "Manner and tone will come across through your packaging, advertising, online, through your sales people, and even the way you answer the phone," he says. What types of interaction you will have with customers? What will be the tone you choose? What types of sales process and policies will you use? Even though you are based thousands of miles away, this is still a reflection on you and your brand. Remember that.

hile you focus on raising brand awareness, there is another component to building a brand internationally that needs your attention. You need to be vigilant in maintaining your brand reputation in every market in which you sell. That gets harder as your business gets bigger and expands into more locales. "Once you start having a couple of different offices or are in multiple states or countries or

you've gone from 10 employees to 300 -- all of a sudden you're not a mom-and-pop operation anymore," Roth says. "Remember, your brand is a promise. You're starting to make a promise that people are buying into and you need to deliver whatever that product or service is." You need to ensure that your customers' experiences with your product, your business, and your staff are positive. That extends to how you deliver your product, product quality control, how service is delivered or structured, and how your people act. "The larger you get, it's not just you being the representative for your widget," Roth says. "You now head up an organization." In branding, one bad customer experience often resonates longer than one good experience. "One bad experience magnifies 100-fold," Roth says. "You need to have constant vigilance." You might consider developing an employee manual, investing in online training for your staff, and/or keeping in check how fast you grow so that you can ensure that you deliver on your brand promise no matter what market you serve. www.nomadquarterly.com

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MACHINE On Wheels 2013 Lexus GS: Mid-Level Sedan Becomes Relevant Again The GS' chiseled body is made of a mix of aluminum, high- and ultra-high-strength steel, and hot-pressed steel, the last boasting a tensile strength so high that it can't be cold-stamped. (HPS is used in the B-pillar and roof for increased side-impact and rollover protection.) All in all, Lexus claims the body is stiffer (up 14 percent in torsional rigidity) and lighter, which helps keep curb weights to what they were before. Better still, the body's clean shape, along with such aero tricks as undertrays with longitudinal ribs, nets a Cd improvement from 0.27 to 0.26. Dimensionally, the new GS is 0.7 inch wider and 1.2 inches taller (1.4 for AWD), although wheelbase (112.2) and overall length (190.7) remain the same. Step inside the GS, and the interior's transformation is as great as the exterior's. Utilizing a new wiring system and electronics, Lexus was able to construct an all-new dash, center stack, and console, all trimmed in richer wood, aluminum, leather, and soft-touch plastics. The result is Lexus' most appealing and advanced interior to date. Of note are a redesigned gauge cluster with a 3.5-inch TFT display; momentary-type wiper and signal stalks, the latter offering the three-flash lane change; a console-mounted remote-touch controller for infotainment a la the RX and CT 200h; a head-up display; and a

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huge 12.3-inch multi-information screen that shows navigation, audio, HVAC, and Enform 2.0 functions. If the display doesn't sound that big, consider that it's the same size as the entire gauge cluster on the new Cadillac XTS. As for Enform 2.0, it connects through a smartphone, allowing passengers to use such apps as Yelp and Facebook. The cabin boasts sizeable bumps in headroom, hiproom, and rear shoulder room (legroom is down slightly). The volume seller will be the rear-drive GS 350, which is ďŹ tted with a 3.5-liter, 306-horse V-6 and six-speed automatic. Unlike its predecessor, the new 350 is available in Luxury and F Sport trims - the former piles on the full luxe treatment (wood and leather steering wheel, rear audio controls, 18-way power front seats, adaptive suspension), while the latter brings the complete sport suite (redesigned fascias, 19-inch wheels with staggered summer tires, larger brakes, perforated-leather interior, aluminum trim and pedals, and dynamic handling with variable-gear-ratio steering). All-wheel-drive variants, using a center diďŹ&#x20AC;erential with multiplate clutch pack that can vary the torque split from 50/50 front/rear to 30/70, will bridge the sales gap between the RWD 350 and the GS 450h hybrid. Speaking of the 450h, it ups the ante with 338 horsepower (total output from 3.5-liter Atkinson-cycle V-6 and two electric motors) channeled through a high-tech CVT, delivering combined fuel economy of over 30 mpg - all from a sedan that can hit 60 mph in about 5.6 seconds. And what about the V-8-powered GS? Gone. Lexus feels the hybrid is plenty peppy to satisfy power-mongers, and cites that 95 percent of segment buyers opt for a V-6 anyway. If anything, Lexus may eventually bring to the U.S. a 2.5-liter, 207-horse V-6 available in other markets. The revised front control-arm and rear multilink suspension, both of which feature more aluminum pieces, kept body motions well in check and provided a composed, comfortable ride. The 3.5-liter is pleasingly powerful -- supplying enough gusto for 0-60 in around 6.0 seconds -- hybrid-quiet at idle, yet makes itself known under WOT, thanks to an "intake sound creator" that sends mid- to high-rpm music directly into the cabin. The carryover six-speed now comes with standard shift paddles, so accessing manual control is easier than ever. That said, shift speed and smoothness seemed a little behind that of today's top seven- and eight-speed boxes, including the Lexus LS'.

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Drivelines with more power and better fuel economy Fuel economy has been improved by up to 15 percent. All new direct-injection versions feature exceptional eďŹ&#x192;ciency and environmentally-friendly fuel consumption. All models also come with the redesigned seven-speed automatic transmission, with the gear ratios on all versions optimized for fuel economy.

Although the front-end treatment is arguably a bit much, the overall appearance is stealthy and mean, a facade that should make many Euro-brand enthusiasts take notice. With 265/35R19 rear tires - the widest ever for a GS - and 235/40R19s up front, the F Sport felt ďŹ rm, planted, and crisper than the base 350. For a small dose of adrenaline, dial the drive-mode selector to Sport, which heightens throttle response and turns the meter display from blue to red. Want a big dose? Select Sport Plus, and the variable suspension, transmission, and steering all amp up accordingly, delivering the tautest, most agile GS. Unsurprisingly, the ride suďŹ&#x20AC;ers in Sport Plus, but not so much that it tarnishes the handling gains on a twisty road. www.nomadquarterly.com

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THE FOUR-CYLINDER ENGINE FEATURES DIRECT INJECTION AND TURBO CHARGING AND IS ALSO DISTINGUISHED BYA COMBINED FUEL ECONOMY OF 24 MPG

Smoother, quieter, quicker, and more seamless than its predecessor, the 450h is an impressive engineering feat, oﬀering the power and speed of the previous V-8 GS 460 combined with the fuel economy of the current 1.8liter Corolla. Fuel economy, estimated at 29/34 city/highway, is better than that of the Inﬁniti M35h and the Mercedes E350 BlueTEC. The GS 450h also feels the most special of the lineup, due in

part to an exclusive bamboo-trimmed interior that's about as elegant and green as a Japanese garden. Active safety features on the GS include an available blind-spot monitor, Lane Keep Assist with Lane Departure Warning, night vision, and a precollision system. Ten airbags, including dual front knee bags, provide passive protection. In light of the previous gen, the new GS represents advancements in reﬁnement, performance, fuel economy, technology, and luxury. Further, the hybrid positively raises the bar among premium hypermilers, as it's a deftly executed best-of-bothworlds four-door. Yet, with a standard V-6 that puts out mid-class power, a behind-the-curve six-speed, and a front end that some will deem scary, the GS is a sizeable step forward, not a huge leap. At the very least, Lexus can count on double, maybe even triple, the sales as well as an entry that will not be soon forgotten.

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COVER INTERVIEW

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Jerry Rawlings Talks Ghana, Africa and Why They got Killed Words: Paul Adepoju; Photos: Kukua Mensah

The garden looks well kept. Three doves - Colmcilla, Colombe and Takchawee, perch on the suspending swings literally assessing us like the newly installed 3D travellers’ screening machine at the international wing of Accra International Airport. We felt violated. When he ﬁnally joins us, he exudes conﬁdence as his well kempt moustache perfectly complements the bewitching youthful smiles. In all, he looks presidential despite the fact that he has relinquished the military power that paved way for democratic rule in the former Gold Coast. Wearing a traditional white attire, he gallantly strolled into his Garden of Eden, just like Adam (before the apple incidence) to take us through his highly controversial administration and exhilarating life in a way that only he can describe.

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COVER INTERVIEW

awlings served as the President of Ghana from 1979 to 1999. During these twenty years he transformed himself from a military ruler to a civilian politician. There are contending views about his regime and its policies. This interview provides us with his reflections on and attitudes towards his administration and current issues affecting Ghana. His responses mainly were focused on Ghana and its immediate neighbours. The interview started by asking for an assessment of his activities and achievements since he left office almost eight years ago. His response is quite reflectory. “I was invited by the United Nations to campaign about the dangers of HIV/Aids in Africa. Also I was invited to join a few other associations engaged on political discourse and discussions that was going on in the world.” “I have also served as a member of political groups made up of former heads of states. The Interaction Council serves as a meeting place for former heads of states to share their knowledge and experiences of government. However, it is invariably focused on the USA. The African Forum consists of former African heads of states who were democratically elected. The African Presidential Archives originated from the efforts of former US Ambassador Steve who had served in Tanzania. The focus of this group has been primarily to create a platform for the communication of ideas and to allow the participants to teach and share their experiences as former heads of states. When I received an invitation to participate in this forum I was unable to leave the country at that time because

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of the impending false and fabricated criminal charges against me. Of which if I had left the country I would have been declared wanted for crime. But I had to stay behind in order to defend myself.” The interactive session now beams the searchlight on the major highlights of the popular Jerry Rawlings presidency. According to him, the regime he led was made up of military men and women of integrity as well as civilians. “During my regime, one of the things we did was infrastructural developments, rebuilding of roads, rural electriﬁcation, provision of clean water, and access to good education and health care.” As a responsible government, we inserted into the regime a sense of accountability and integrity, because a united nation must have a sense of purpose and vision, and generally deﬁant and demands from its rulers as well as from the masses accountability and integrity. This is how we were able to achieve so much during our regime. Before coming to power, 29% of the population mainly privileged city dwellers enjoyed power supply, when we left the government over 87% of the population had power supply. This was made possible by the transformation of our ports and harbours. Ghana after Kwame Nkrumah achieved the best political stability of all times. We handed over power to a democratically elected government after three months of leadership. With the aim that the political level and social justice we empowered would be a lasting legacy for other African leaders and the world in general. But Ghana is at the brink of losing all these due to President John Kufuor’s short sightedness and corrupt regime.

The government of John Kufuor is destroying the roads we built and rebuilding them at four times higher costs than what we used in building them. Most of the contracts are awarded as political favours to party members or families, and friends. We used to import rice at about two hundred million dollars a year and this resulted in massive rice distribution; we provided the money, secured the lands and invested in this project. But unfortunately someone messed up along the line, and the present government has used this as a pretext to jail 2 innocent ministers and ceased their genuinely acquired properties. Right now the President’s brother is one of the major rice importers and his daughter is one the major importers of the jute bags in Ghana. Another contextual issue is how he reconciled his humanity to the self-aggrandizing powers of the presidency. The ex president smiled and made use of his bragging right. “I was nothing but a simple pilot, yet I did not feel intimidated because I knew my country was full of brilliant and intelligent young men and women who were ready to take the country to the highest level of governance. Contrary to one of the books I read while growing up “the beautiful ones are not yet born” (Ayi Kwei Armah) This book had a great impact on me because I knew right there that so many beautiful ones were very much around only they were not given the opportunity and space to stand up at the political platform. But only the ugly and the corrupt can stand at the platform and oppress these beautiful ones. This becomes the monopoly of the roughs. We achieved so much within a short space of time, that tourism became the www.nomadquarterly.com

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third sources of national earning. Because of this transformation and stability in Ghana we developed people of intellect and integrity. I realized that all we needed to accomplish our aim was three months, and after which we handed over power to Hillary Limman. I was tried and jailed.” During this struggle for change in Ghana, President Rawlings identified the forces and factors that propelled him and his colleagues to action. “The principal bone of contention was corruption. This state of things affected all segments of society, including the market which was for the middle class at that time. There was so much corruption in the fabric of the society that managers inflated prices of products and materials to market women. It was alleged that one day a solider wanted to buy a product that was so high, he asked a for price reduction the seller out of anger and frustration of what was happening in the

“

During my regime, one of the things we did was infrastructural developments, rebuilding of roads, rural electrification, provision of clean water, and access to good education and health care.” Issue 1

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country threw urine on this soldier. I sent soldiers to bring down the structure instead of killing the people (this was a clear demonstration of anger from the people against the government, the soldier representing the embodiment of government, and the structure, showed lack of organized functioning institutions in the country). There was craving for blood by the masses. This was because when a government misleads its people, the people will come to hate that government. There was an eminent revolution in the air. The situation was so volatile that I was ordered to use an aircraft to terrorize the market women. I had to obey orders. But then I sat in the aircraft for over 30 minutes thinking how could this happen, how badly has this country been governed.” While in power, Ghana enjoyed several overtures from the World Bank hence it is logical to inquire about the nature of his relationship with the World Bank. He didn’t mince words in separating facts from ﬁction. “The World Bank said that in order for them to continue giving aid and assistance, we must hand over to a multi-party system of government within a year. We had no choice but to compile, it was futile. I was compiled to step in again because the people were waiting on me to do it.” As a past president, his views of the present government in Ghana are quite useful. We asked if the incumbent has consolidated the gains of his (Rawlings) government. “Our past achieve-

“

ments came to nothing; it was a time of great loss. Porter Gus, a former CIA Director in the Bush Administration, came to Ghana to warn the govern-

a man ready to ﬁght corruption”. Yes, the Bush administration assisted him to steal the 2004 election in Ghana. The question that lumbers in the minds of decent Ghanaians since then was why no international electoral presence was in sight at the time. And why was Jimmy Carter invited too late? In fact the only monitoring presence seen was the ones formed locally by the ruling government. The West now portrays Ghana as a showcase for Africa. This is because we led the country with good leadership;

Ghana leadership was like a pacesetter, angels were made out of an evil government. They use it to terrorize and intimidate people. This makes the government were arrogant. The government that works in a democracy is one that has a counterforce.”

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ment that corruption was getting out of hand and might result in a coup detat. Months later President Kurfour was invited to USA and President Bush put his hand around him before the press and said “this is a man of vision,

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COVER INTERVIEW like a pacesetter, angels were made out of an evil government. They use it to terrorize and intimidate people. This makes the government arrogant. The government that works in a democracy is one that has a counterforce.”

we used the resources to transform the culture into a culture of boosting economy and infrastructure. We empowered the people with a sense of justice and a true sense of freedom, thereby disempowering social in-justice and corruption. United States asked us for a multiparty system, we gave it to them, but it is no good to us because we tested it all including, one-party system, socialism, coups and counter coups. None was credible to our people. Rather these forms of government only provided the country with ethnical rivalry and party subordination. The result, it never worked because the objectives were misused by those whom it was trusted with. “Ghana leadership was

t is wrong for people to slaughter one another. Jerry Rawlings does not believe one ethnic group has the right to slaughter another. According to him, “those lunatic killers must be pursued and brought to justice. A counter slaughter is inhuman and evil because it perpetuates the same evil that the other group committed. Rather, as an effective way of respecting and saving innocent lives would be to bring into justice any group that took it upon themselves to kill another group.” In his view, most of the time, it was the government that instigates this kind of organized hate among different ethnic groups within their respective countries. The case of Rwanda was a typical case at hand. Africa as a nation lacked the power to stop the carnage when it was obvious what was about to happen in Rwanda, but the West kept quite until it was late and millions of people were killed in counter-slaughtering. The world ran away, only Ghanaian troops remained. And this has never been mentioned anywhere in the globe as kudos for those troops. National development and moral responsibility. For any nation to function there must be a clear vision of nationalism, patriotism, access to good education, social justice and affordable health care system. The late Pope John Paul helped to bring down communism in Poland, but he

“

We created one nation under Ghana by the Ghanaians and for the Ghanaians. My wife did everything within her power to promote the cause of the women.”

also once said:”the Savagery of Capitalism” poses another danger to humankind”. What is happening in Iraq and South America is a display of Tony Blair and President W. Bush impunity. And this is affecting Africa so negatively in the sense that since most African leaders are followers, they would use the pace set by America and Britain to perpetuate their own people. This was what Pope John Paul was saying about capitalism. This sense of triumphant America creates the idea that might is right. In light of this state of affairs in international politics, the Africans are very vulnerable. Their continent does not have the power to pull the brakes. “In summary, we provided clean water available throughout the country. I was the first president in Ghana who made a public statement against women discrimination and for the women elevation during our regime; we enhanced the culture of democracy by giving them a sense of vision and purpose through free and social justice for the masses. We gave voice to the poor by empowering them with a social sense of duty. We constructed roads, provided energy throughout the nation. There was visible quality of education and access to affordable health care system. We bridged the disparity between the poor and the rich, between the rural people and the city dwellers. We created one nation under Ghana by the Ghanaians and for the Ghanaians. My wife did everything within her power to promote the cause of the women. During our regime she and the regime created opportunities for family planning and provided job opportunities for them. Our regime was the best that Ghana ever had. Our people were at their best.”

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The Psychology of Sex beyond Orgasm

Barbara keesling

New ďŹ ndings and radical changes in our understanding of orgasm should make it easier to have stellar sex, and reap the mother lode of rewards we now know come with it.

ai and Kuku are making love. They've been doing it two or three times a week for six months in much the same way: Kuku lies on her back with her legs in

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the air. Mai kneels in front of her, inserts his penis and begins to thrust. Kuku grinds her hips and moans slightly. Steven thrusts quickly for 30 seconds, moans, and having ejaculated, withdraws. They hug and lie together in the "spoon" position. Both feel

mildly disappointed, but that's how they normally feel after sex. He rolls over and goes to sleep. She stays awake, feeling anxious and depressed. Next door, Ashley and Kenneth are making love for the ďŹ rst time. They spend lots of time on oral sex and both www.nomadquarterly.com

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get very aroused. When Kenneth enters Ashley, she is already so aroused that she has an orgasm immediately. Kenneth can feel the walls of her vagina pulsing around him. He slows down his thrusting. Now he can feel Ashley's breathing change as she goes into a second orgasm, which causes her arms and legs to spasm and her heart to race. Now his breath quickens and with an extremely loud moan he has an orgasm and ejaculation. His whole body spasms. Kenneth says, "Don't stop. If you keep moving, I can go again." And he does, having two more orgasms in five minutes. Afterward, Ashley and Kenneth feel energized and give off a glow. They are no youngsters. They are in their late 30s. These two anecdotes illustrate a number of things (other than the fact that I am unlikely to land a job writing erotica any time soon). First, sex is good for you. Because sexual arousal and orgasm involve interplay of several body systems, it's well known that sex improves our breathing and circulation, resulting in bright eyes, a facial glow and shiny hair. Sex can also improve cardiovascular conditioning, strength, flexibility and muscle tone, and has been known to relieve the symptoms of specific medical conditions, such as menstrual problems, osteoporosis and arthritis. Arousal and orgasm also benefit our mental health. Because they cause the release of pleasure-inducing endorphins in the brain, they can relieve anxiety and depression, increase vitality and boost the immune system. Sex also creates an emotional and physical bond that is essential for social support. With all the mental and physical benefits of sex, it's like we're walking around with a complete health care system inside our own body. The second major point that the opening anecdotes illustrate is that or-

gasm is not the same for everyone. Men and women have different expectations about lovemaking and orgasms. Orgasms can vary greatly in their physical and psychological intensity, and both men and women may be capable of greater orgasmic responses than we previously thought possible. If sex is good for your health, good sex is even better, and really great, mind-blowing multi orgasmic sex is even better than that! I believe that recent findings about male and female orgasm are changing our understanding of orgasm so radically that in the near future, we will find evidence that orgasm can have an even more profound effect on our physical and mental health. And the changing views will make it much easier for the average man and woman to reap these psychological and physical benefits.

Defining Orgasm insey, Masters and Johnson, and other sex researchers defined orgasm as a reflex that occurs when muscle tension and blood flow to the pelvis reach a peak and are dispersed, and when the pubococcygeal (PC) muscle group that supports the pelvic floor spasms rhythmically at 0.8 second intervals and the heart rate accelerates rapidly (often as high as 180 beats a minute) and then slows down. For men, orgasm usually includes ejaculation. Orgasm can involve changes in blood pressure, heavy breathing, muscle spasms in the buttocks, tension in the arms, legs and neck, facial grimacing, sweating, the sex flush (reddening of the skin on the chest and neck), tingling of the fingers and toes, yawning, moaning, screaming and uncontrollable emotional outbursts such as weeping

Because sexual arousal and orgasm involve interplay of several body systems, it's well known that sex improves our breathing and circulation, resulting in bright eyes, a facial glow and shiny hair. Sex can also improve cardiovascular conditioning, strength, flexibility and muscle tone, and has been known to relieve the symptoms of specific medical conditions, such as menstrual problems, osteoporosis and arthritis. and laughing (or bursting into songs like "Ah, sweet mystery of life, at last I've found you!"). Some people report a feeling of undeﬁned sadness after orgasm, called post coital tristesse, which I always thought would make a great name for a rock group. From a psychological standpoint, orgasm can provide a measure of relief or release, and encompass feelings of loss of control or even a sense of an altered state of consciousness, probably due to the release of endorphins. I describe orgasms on a continuum from a localized genital sensation that is mildly pleasurable to a full-body orgasm with intense psychological sensations and all the ﬁreworks--the kind of orgasm one of my clients calls "the psychedelic jackpot that lights up the universe." With this kind of variation, it's no wonder some women don't notice them. To be Continued Issue 1

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STREET LIFE

Street Life In

abidjan, Ivorian Capital The post-election deadlock in the Ivory Coast has made the situation tense for

ordinary citizens in the main city of Abidjan

The international community has recognised Alassane Ouattara as the winner of November 2010 election and urged President Laurent Gbagbo to quit. Student Toorey, who does not want to give his full name, says tensions are running high in the city: "Abidjan is a shadow of what it was before. Small businesses are facing tough times. There are no sales because people lack money partly due to the fact that the companies they work for have closed. The businesses that are still surviving have only paid employees about two-thirds of their salaries. So money has

By Amos Coker

broadly become a very scarce resource. As a result, the quality of life for Ivorians in Abidjan has declined to an alarming degree. Much more concerned with their survival, many Ivorians are at least two months behind with their rents. Following the transport strike, finding foodstuffs in Abidjan has become difficult. Vegetables, yams, maize, tomatoes, oil, milk, cassava and plantains are costly. The scarcity of these food items has driven people to scramble for rice, the price of which has escalated beyond the reach of ordinary Ivorians.

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B Abobo, an impoverished neighbourhood in northern Abidjan, was the epicentre of violence in the standoff between two rival presidential claimants in Ivory Coast.

The reported culprits were security forces police, military and militia men — that remained loyal to Laurent Gbagbo, Ivory Coast’s president since 2000 who refused to step down.

The market in Abobo was abandoned in January 2011as forces loyal to Laurent Gbagbo, Ivory Coast_s former president who refused to step down for months, laid siege to a neighbourhood that supported his rival, Alassane Ouattara.

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ack in January 2011, in the neighbourhood of Abobo in northern Abidjan, civilians were getting dragged out of their homes in the middle of the night. Sometimes, they were killed on the spot. Other times, they were taken away, joining the ranks of the “disappeared.” “They end up over there,” residents said, nodding in the direction of a heavily forested area where rumour had it there was a mass grave, a body dump right there in the middle of Ivory Coast’s largest city that was once a gleaming beacon of progress, the Paris of Africa. Neither the UN nor journalists who tried could get past the security forces to find out if there was actually a body dump there. Most the people taken away there were supporters of AlassaneOuattara, who was certified as the winner of Ivory Coast’s November 2010 election. The reported culprits were security forces — police, military and militia men — that remained loyal to Laurent Gbagbo, Ivory Coast’s president since 2000 who refused to step down. The Forces Nouvelles controlled northern Ivory Coast since a 20022003 civil war – now being referred to as the “First Ivorian War” – and sided with Ouattara in the dispute. Gbagbo’s people justified their actions in Abobo by saying they were flushing out rebels. While Ouattara and residents said Abobo was home only to civilians trying to live their lives, word on the street was that the rebels would come. Neighbours and friends were getting picked off night after night; sisters and mothers were being raped; shots were ringing out at all hours. www.nomadquarterly.com

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Neighbours and friends were getting picked off night after night; sisters and mothers were being raped; shots were ringing out at all hours. Soldiers and police officers under Gbagbo’s control were setting up roadblocks allowing no one to get in or out.

Soldiers and police oﬃcers under Gbagbo’s control were setting up roadblocks allowing no one to get in or out. Inside the virtual prison of Abobo, security forces marauded through the neighbourhood on campaigns of terror. As far as most residents were concerned, the UN, tasked with protecting the civilian population, did nothing. On a particularly bloody day — as Gbagbo’s security forces were shooting all over Abobo and state TV was calling for attacks on foreigners, UN personnel and Ouattara supporters, and reports of mass graves were popping up everywhere — on that day, the

tanks. The young men yelled and threw stones and refused to make way. Eventually, the UN turned back, its ineﬀectual mandate exposed.Behind the line of young men, the killing and terror went on in Abobo. Later that afternoon, on a rough dirt road more closely resembling a motocross track than a city street, people stood around quietly. Market stalls were empty. A body lay on the side of the road, a man in a bright yellow and blue African print shirt, shot to shit and left in the dirt. Pools of blood lay around him. Over the next few days, it went on and on. Residents set up makeshift bar-

“No one is protecting us,” said a taxi driver and resident of the area. “They keep coming and the UN does noth-

UN sent a patrol to Abobo to protect the civilian population. They were not shot at. If they had been, they could have shot back, a fact that Charles BleGoude, Gbagbo’s youth minister who commanded gangs of thugs used for political ends, surely knew. BleGoude sent a band of unarmed young men to block the UN

ricades throughout the neighbourhood, broken tables and chairs in alleyways in hopes of slowing the onslaught of security forces and allowing time to escape. There were whispers of arms were being dispersed at night, by unknown men to unknown men, while everyone pretended to turn the other way.

ing.” They were praying for the rebels to come. Out in the wild west of the country, the town of Doukeue was nearly razed to the ground by fire and some 35 people were killed in ethnic fighting. More than 13,000 people sought refuge in a Catholic mission and the UN compound was fired on for several Issue 1

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STREET LIFE days, according to a staffer there. Jean-Marie Kalama, head of the UN human rights division for that region, said unequivocally that army helicopters had flown in arms and ammunition to the Guere, who traditionally support Gbagbo, before the election. The Guere were fighting their tradition rival, the Malinke, who are mainly traders from Ouattara’s northern power base. Young men from the Malinke tribe, severely outmatched, were going north of the ceasefire line to beg the FN to arm them so they could fight back. Political leaders in Ivory Coast have long been manipulating pre-existing ethic divisions as a means of securing power. In February 2011 when the first skirmishes broke out between the FN and Gbagbo’s forces, FN commanders said atrocities committed by Gbagbo’s forces left no choice but to break the ceasefire to protect the population there. In Abobo, fierce fighting raged between pro-Gbagbo forces and a group that called itself the “Invisible Commandos,” which proclaimed they were fighting to defend the community. Gbagbo’s forces ramped up attacks on civilians in Abidjan in February, mowing down seven women who were peacefully protesting the violence, firing a mortar into a crowded market killing at least 25 people, while most the focus of the world was firmly on Libya’s uprising and the earthquake in Japan. And shortly after, in a shockingly rapid advance, pro-Ouattara forces swept down the country and within days descended on Ivory Coast’s largest city. The advance of Ouattara’s forces slowed considerably once they reached Abidjan, turning a city that once gleamed with skyscrapers and motorways into a war zone. Residents hid in their homes in what were once upscale neighbourhoods while bullets pierced their walls and outside, looters

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took their cars, their bikes, and ransacked and raided their shops and offices. Then the UN and France jumped into the fray, launching air strikes against Gbagbo and propping up Ouattara’s forces. After a week or so of urban warfare, Gbagbo was bumped from his underground bunker into the hands of Ouattara’s forces. In the more than four months of turmoil it took Ouattara to become president, a nation that had been tiptoeing toward unity and peace became more bloody and divided than ever before. It’s going to be a long road out, and no one – not Gbagbo nor Ouattara – has clean hands. Neither does the international community. It could be argued, and has been, that the electoral crisis in Ivory Coast was its own problem and should play out without foreign interference. But the election was the result of a nearly decade-long peace process brokered by the UN; the ballot was supervised and certified by the UN, at the behest of all the parties involved. Whether the international community should be there is open to debate, but when it already is there, it’s incumbent upon it to fulfill its commitments. By utterly failing to protect civilians early in the conflict – in January and in February when it was a simmering dispute rather than an all-out war – it behoved an armed conflict. With Ouattara supporters being singled out, attacked and killed, it was only a matter of time before his forces would have to intervene, lest those cries of “no one is protecting us” become too loud. Back in the days when people were being pulled out of their homes in the night, when little skirmishes were breaking out between the Guere and the Malinke, that is when the UN should have been there to protect the people. But there was little but a circle of talk that went nowhere while the piles of bodies grew higher and the

deep-seated hatred was ﬁred up all over again, and the stage was being set for all-out war. It’s one thing to ask people to exercise restraint, to be patient while a peaceful resolution is met. But to ask for patience over months and months, while people are being systemically killed, raped and disappeared – it’s not reasonable, it’s not realistic, and it’s not humane. But no one was there – the eyes of the international community were turned steadfastly to Egypt, Libya and Japan, and the UN force in Ivory Coast was either unable or unwilling to stop atrocities against civilians. In Rwanda in 1994, it took the military advance of Paul Kagame’s rebel army to stop the genocide that killed some 800,000 people, after 100 days of dithering on the part of the international community. Rwanda’s genocide destabilized the whole Great Lakes region of Africa.

veryone said, as we have said time and again through history, never again. But 17 years later in Ivory Coast, again the horrors unfolded. Again it took a (former) rebel army — itself responsible for a slew of bone-

Already people are eating once a day, which is called 'mort subite' meaning one meal a day. Ivorians are steadily descending into a serious food crisis if the political situation remains deadlocked.

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chilling atrocities — to bring the conflict to a head, triggering a level of fighting that was seemingly finally enough to compel decisive action. Mass graves litter the west of the country. Blood is dripping from the hands of both Gbagbo and Ouattara’s forces, including massive campaigns of rape and massacres of hundreds of people. More than a million people are estimated to be displaced. Ivorians continue to flee the country amid widespread reports of reprisal killings. Neighbouring Liberia, which has struggled and made impressive progress following its own civil war, has become embroiled in the crisis with more than 100,000 people pouring in from Ivory Coast, while hundreds, if not thousands, of Liberian ex-combatants went the other way to fight as mercenaries. Now they’re going back to Liberia with guns and there are rumours of pro-Gbagbo forces using the remote borderlands of Liberia as a place to regroup, in order to launch another military challenge to Ouattara’s hold on power. As such, the conflict threatens to engulf an already war-ravaged, fragile region where civil wars have a tendency to burst their borders. (For example, Charles Taylor invaded Liberia in 1989 from Ivory Coast to set off the civil war there; numerous other factions would go on to use Ivory Coast and Burkina Faso as launchpads to try wrest control of Liberia from Taylor over the 14-year course of the war. A rebel force invaded Sierra Leone from Liberia to start what would become an 11-year civil war there). The economy of Ivory Coast, once the strongest in the region, has nearly collapsed. Banks haven’t been in business for months and sanctions against Gbagbo have stopped virtually all eco-

nomic activity in the country. Investors will – and should be – wary of putting money into the country for a long time to come. And, perhaps most damaging of all, the divisions that have split this country for decades, between tribes, between north and south, between so-called “true” Ivorians and more recent immigrants, have all been rekindled,

reignited, rearmed, after a decade of trying to heal those divides. The work done to achieve peace amounted to what many now call the Second Ivorian War.

lready people are eating once a day, which is called 'mort subite' meaning one meal a day. Ivorians are steadily descending into a serious food crisis if the political situation remains deadlocked. The underfed, hungry and angry population has the feeling that the interna-

tional community is weak and is dragging its feet in addressing the political, social and economic chaos in the Ivory Coast. The majority of Ivorians, except the incumbent president's

Beggars are mushrooming in streets, many workers stay at home because of transport problems and schools are closed despite some weak attempts to resume classes. Issue 1

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Dancing in the Streets in Ivory Coast at Abissa n what looked like an exact opposite to what the situation in in the capital city, a celebration was underway in a village that is located few kilometres away from the metropolitan part of Abidjan. John Darlton, a British tourist gives an account of the celebration: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The celebration known asThe Nzima

I was standing at the side, a little boy pulls me down, and decorates my face, and it has now become a daily event. Starting at about three in the afternoon and lasting until 8:00 pm, these drums echo into the night and people dance madly around them in duel of energy dancing, each person tries to exert more

Festival called "Abissa" is vibrating this sand bar I am living on, the drums make the earth move. There is a heaven and earth amount of energy being exerted; this is like trance dancing on steroids, an intoxicating moment in travel. The Quartier France here in Grand Bassam was built on a sand bar, the streets are sand. The world here is sand, this is beach life, and life is lived on the sand. The residents here are dancing in the sand as the calm village is turned into the biggest festival in Ivory Coast.

dance as the sand flies. The Festival of Abissa is an important celebration for the well-organized people of Nzima.There are a few traveller rites of passage; maybe Abissa needs to be added to the list. A few of you are going to say,"I have been there, done that."And for people who come to Abissa, we must stand quiet and listen -- for when you attend Abissa, you truly know you are "out," for one time in their life, they are "outside" your own culture --- maybe they would not understand.â&#x20AC;?

supporters, strongly believe that if there is hope, it rests with the international community, namely the [West African regional grouping] ECOWAS troops, to end their suffering. Beggars are mushrooming in streets, many workers stay at home because of transport problems and schools are closed despite some weak attempts to resume classes. So things are not moving correctly and even the streets in some overcrowded areas of Abidjan are sometimes only half crowded since people are not feeling secure outside. Finally there is despair, confusion among Ivorians. We are living in times of great uncertainty, not knowing exactly what tomorrow will bring in terms security, food and stability. Everybody feels like they have been taken hostage or caught up between two sad realities: Ouattara's image of change and Gbagbo's militias, the armed forces loyal to him and the mercenaries still abducting and killing people. The incumbent president's people have now openly resorted to violence against Ouattara's supporters. Now the tension is mounting dramatically in town to the extent that everybody should be careful before voicing their views. Indeed, all areas are now infested with Gbagbo's informants. Tensions are running high. People are becoming more and more afraid because they don't know the next move of the president-elect. The situation can turn violent and I don't know what tomorrow will bring."

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Color is inspiration for life

Ndebele

Ndebele traditions are notable for the color their women bring to mural art and the dresses which are accessorized with brass rings. But that’s not what Ndebele is all about. NOMAD AFRICA’s Amanda Sharon throws more light on the Ndebele beliefs.

debele beliefs are based on ancestral worship which involves a continual dialogue between the living and dead ancestors.

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South Africa has two Ndebele groups that are thought to have migrated from Kwazulu-Natal in the early seventeenth century. One group is currently situated northeast of Johannesburg in Bronkhorstspruit, while descendants of

the other group are now in the famous Limpopo Province. Every Ndebele village is deﬁned by its artworks which are often done by the women. Each house is an array of colors – white, pink, red and blue – www.nomadquarterly.com

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which adorns walls within and outside. This way, a woman designates her territory; and at the same time, art serves as inspiration for everyday life. Ndebele women also express their statuses by the way they adorn and ornament themselves. Ornate beadwork, blanNdebele Traditions - a study in kets and other colour trinkets are worn, and these become more elaborate after cately and specially chosen from the marriage. Choice jewelries and acces- tribe by the ancestors. As such, they sories are the brass rings that are worn command great respect and immense on the neck, arms and legs. These can rewards are accorded them. They are weigh up to twenty kilograms. responsible for the health of the peoAuthority of rulership in any Ndebele ple: When one falls ill, they are the ones dynasty is vested in the tribal chief to prescribe a path to wellbeing. And (ikozi) who is ably assisted by an inner when spirits bring bad luck, they are or family council (amaphakathi). There called upon to appease the spirit and are ward heads (izilindi) and family pa- reverse the ill lucks. triarchs. Like those of many African communities, Ndebele beliefs have close conhe original community of sanguinity with ancestral spirits. At Mapoch lived in an area various ceremonies and ritual events, called Wonderboom in Ndebele people call upon their ancesPretoria. They were living tral spirits for guidance and counsel. on a farm of a certain Worship of the dead is a decidedly intri- white farmer. This community was cate ritual through which both living evicted from Pretoria during the early and dead have a strong bond. Through 1950’s. Apparently the farmer petithis bond, ancestors of Ndebele pro- tioned to the government of the time, vide valuable service to those who are to have the community removed from still alive. “his” land as tourists were travelling Traditional healers (sangoma) are the through “his” land to visit the commulink between the earthly world and nity. Blacks were forcibly removed spirit realm. They are intricately, deli- from traditional settlements to make

way for white communities under Apartheid policies. This community was ﬁrst moved to “Vlakfontein”, where it was found that there was not enough land for their cattle to graze, no rivers nearby and no space suitable to hold the traditional initiation schools, amongst other factors. The community petitioned and more suitable land was found for them. The Mapoch Ndebele Community then moved to a farm at Klipgat under the authority of Mr Speelman Buhlakani Msiza (Chief) in 1953. The current village was built and life goes on as usual. Mapoch Ndebele Village is a unique place as the community still live and practice their traditional way of life, i.e. traditional ceremonies, Ndebele paintings, beadwork and Ndebele culture in general. The three main families in the village are the: Msiza’s (direct family of the Chief), Buda’s (son in laws) and Skosana’s. Locally the village is known as “Mabhoko”, which is the name of ISSUE 1

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EXISTENCE CULTURE & TRADITION

one of the late Ndebele Kings, but the white people had diﬃculty in pronouncing Mabhoko and called it “Mapoch”. The Ndebele people are descendants of the Nguni tribes (greater Zulu tribes) who split from the Zulus and moved up and settled around the greater Pretoria areas. Mzilizazi and King Cha Ndebele feature greatly in their history. In the olden days, parents were responsible for choosing a wife for their sons. A male child must “graduate” from an initiation school before the marriage Labola (dowry) could be paid. The value of the bride’s labola is calculated by the number of cows (usually 8 cows) given to the bride’s parents by the groom (current value in 2011 is R3500 per cow). Before a woman is married a “bukhazi” is performed during which the bride-to-be goes into a small room or hut for a week before the wedding. While there, elderly women in the community teach her about her role as a wife, and expected duties as a married woman in the village. This tradition is practiced in winter, every four years. The boys are taken to the bush for a period of two months where they learn the history, rituals, norm, values and traditional poems of the Ndebele culture. A circumcision process takes place at the end of this period and the boys are initiated into manhood. The men then return home and are ceremoniously welcomed back into the community as men. The mothers of the initiates prepare, ﬁx and paint the homestead in preparation for the “welcome home” ceremonies.

Girls on the other hand have their own initiation schooling around the village for a period of one month. Celebrations diﬀer from the men’s initiation school but the young girl’s teachings are completed once they too have been initiated. When the youths have

ter. Every Ndebele woman has her own style, meaning and knowledgebase about the different things they use in their lives; these are depicted on the walls. Examples include razor blade, house, and cellphone. Everything has at least a meaning and an importance to the artist. The “Ndebele Flower” symbolizes Ndebele women’s fertility. The razor blade pattern is used extensively to depict traditional hair shavings, beadwork, household tasks and traditional ceremonies. Traditionally, houses were painted in muted, natural colours extracted from nature – black from fire ash, white from stones, browns and yellows from cow dung. Pigments were often mixed with cow dung and water and then applied to the walls. The bright colours only came later, with the introduction of western and Indian paint pigments. The Ndebele Culture is also closely linked with nature. The Morula Tree, Weeping Wattle (mosetlha) and the Buffalo Thorn (mokgalo) abound in the Mapoch village. The Morula tree produces a fruit, which is used to make traditional morula beer. The fruits drop from the trees in January/ February and the village and livestock are well fed. Meeting Places The men gather at a special place known as the “E bandla” (a meeting/Indaba place) to discuss important issues, which affect the whole village. Women are not allowed at these

The culture of the Ndebele people is unique, especially with regard to their colourful and rich mural paintings. Mural painting is passed on from generation to generation, from mother to daughter. Every Ndebele woman has her own style, meaning and knowledgebase about the different things they use in their lives; these are depicted on the walls.

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completed their initiation, and have returned to the village, a bull is slaughtered for the male initiates and a cow for the female initiates to welcome them back into the community. Before a cow is slaughtered, the blood of a goat must “be thrown on the ground”. Mural Painting and Symbolism

he culture of the Ndebele people is unique, especially with regard to their colourful and rich mural paintings. Mural painting is passed on from generation to generation, from mother to daugh-

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meetings or in these places. There is however, a place in the village, usually under a big tree at the village centre, where the whole village meets to discuss certain issues. Women discuss issues while doing their daily tasks and important decisions are left for the men to decide. Every family uses a single rondawel (round dwelling) for daily activities like cooking and sleeping. There are specific rules and customs on entering the rondawel as there are specific areas for men and women. In the present day however, the rondawel is used for traditional ceremonies and square houses are built at the back for cooking and sleeping as the family grows. Modern houses are normally built at the back of the traditional rondawels. Each family has its own kraal for livestock. During traditional ceremonies, the men eat and cook separately from the women. The sitting ledge or step inside the rondawels is known as “mosamo” and no women may sit upon it. Traditionally, women inhabit the left side of the rondawel and men the right. The verandah, porch or courtyard at the front of the rondawel is the area reserved for non-family members, friends, extended family. Women may sit on the steps in the courtyard area. Only direct family members may go further into the homestead, unless they are specifically requested by the family. The “matouri” is the store-room of the rondawel, where mats, pots and other household items are kept. The walls of the traditional rondawels are made from a lattice of poles and sticks which have been covered in mud and cow dung. The floors are also “cemented” with cow dung. It is said that “A big house must not be broken” – meaning that once the elders have passed away, the house must remain and be maintained by the family. Should the rondawel (home) need to be

demolished to make way for newer structures, the family must visit the graves with gifts of beer and snuﬀ in order to request the ancestors’ blessings for the intended changes. Traditionally, maize (corn) meal (known as “pap” or “mealiepap”) forms the staple diet, while meats (chicken, beef, lamb, etc) and vegetables are added to the pap. A sauce or gravy is sometimes served with the pap. “Mala magodus” (mainly sheep’s tripe),

chicken feet, and “ighlogo” (heads) from goats, sheep and cows are regular delicacies. ISSUE 1

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Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top

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best Spas

Best for natural beauty

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eading British beauty brand Liz Earle makes its international spa debut this summer, at Sasaab in Samburu, Kenya. The Moroccan-influenced eco-lodge sits above the Ewaso Nyiro River in an area renowned for elephants and the endangered Grévy’s zebra. Nine rooms are available to guests, with private plunge pools looking over the river and the wilderness. The treatment rooms, built of local materials in traditional lodge-style, also afford magnificent views of the bush. Featuring the Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare range, all products at this Kenyan spa are made from natural botanicals and include a number sustainably sourced from Kenya.

Experience one of Africa's best spas and stay at the Liz Earle Spa, Kenya

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Set in the midst of the 75,000 hectare Madikwe Game Reserve, the Molori Lodge is the place to safari in style and seclusion. Only ten guests can stay at one time. The five suites have been designed by renowned South African designer, Stephen Falcke, and have private decks, infinity pools and Philippe Starck bathtubs overlooking the bush and the Dwarsberg Mountains. The small spa, which has a steam room and plunge pool, specialises in aromatherapy and reflexology, the perfect way to relax after a day seeking out the Big Five. For a truly spectacular experience, book a massage in the bush massage area. Molori.com

Molori Safari Lodge and Spa, Savannah, South Africa

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Kilindi, Northern Zanzibar, Tanzania

verlooking a stunning beach and turquoise waters, Kilindi is a picture perfect getaway resort in Northern Zanzibar. At this African spa guests stay in the 15 pavilions with their large domed roofs providing both shade and pri-

vacy. Floor-length shutters open out onto views of the sea, lush tropical gardens and rainwater pools. The uShawari spa, staffed by East African therapists, features a hammam suite within a walled garden in which to enjoy post-treatment champagne. The Swahili carvings and whitewashed walls give the spa a traditional feel.

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Fordoun Spa, South Africa

This delightful boutique hotel, formerly a 19thcentury farm, in the rolling KwaZulu Natal countryside has a blissfully tranquil spa. Set in what was the dairy, the domeceilinged ﬂotation tank used to be the grain silo, while the pool is in the former milking barn. What sets it apart, though, are its authentic African treatments. Guests can consult traditional healer Dr Ndlovu, with his product range based on Zulu plants – over 120 varieties are grown in the herb garden and clay is harvested from the nearby White Mountains for wraps. Alongside the traditional there’s a choice of Elemis treatments, too, as well as thalossotherapy, hydrotherapy and massages from Swedish to deep tissue. Fordoun.com Fordoun Spa boasts a team of experts that include skilled masseurs, Reiki and Bio-energy specialists, a traditional African Healer and highly trained aestheticians. The spa features internationally acclaimed treatments such as the rasul, (a Turkish steam and clay treatment room), a saline Floatation pool, heated swimming pool, a gymnasium, sauna, steam room, vichy shower, hydrotherapy room, and a couples’ treatment suite with hydrotherapy bath. Treatments available at Fordoun include: • Aromatherapy body and bath treatments, using exotic blends of es-

sential oils to suit each customer’s needs; • Indulgent Exotic Frangapani body wraps and Inkomfe African Potatoe healing wraps ; • Hydrotherapy baths and showers; • Thalassotherapy seaweed treatments; • Various massages, including Deep Tissue massage, Ndukuduku massage, Swedish and Aromatherapy. Part of the holistic relevance of everything at Fordoun has led to the development of the Fordoun signature range of products, created in conjunction with Dr Elliot Ndlovu, herbalist and ethnobotanist, who is a traditional African Healer and In-

yanga, and a director of Fordoun Spa. Under his guidance, a number of products have been carefully created from indigenous traditional healing plants, especially for Fordoun. The range includes soaps, shower gels, massage oils, bath salts, creams and sprays, based on the theme of the seven Chakras and the seven colours of the rainbow. A luxury Eau de Toilette range, Ma’Ndlovu for women and BabaNdlovu for men, has been designed for both the local and export markets. Fordoun also make use of Elemis an exclusive up market international beauty treatment range. Which we feel works well with the Ndlovu range and compliments our natural , South African range, Africology.

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BLACKPOT

Chicken Palava (African peanut stew)

Ingredients: 1 pound chicken fillet 1 pretty large onion 1 large red bell pepper 2 large garlic cloves 2 big, juicy tomatoes 1/2 pound fresh spinach 4 tbsp (peanut) oil 1 tsp sesame oil 1/4 tsp chili powder (hot) 1/2 tsp ground ginger 2 tsp brown sugar 1/2 tsp dried thymeâ&#x20AC;? 5 tbsp peanut butter 2 cups chicken broth extra brown sugar pepper salt

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BLACKPOT

Directions: Cut the chicken into tiny cubes. Combine the oil with the sesame oil, pinch of salt, loads of pepper, chili powder (the hot version), dried thyme, ground ginger, brown sugar and garlic. Mix it with the chicken and let it marinade for 15 minutes while you move on with the recipe. Wash and dry 1/2 a pound spinach. I tend to remove the long stalks. I prefer using the leaves whole, but you can give them a chop as well. No need to add oil to the pan since the marinade contained oil. Cook the chicken until it loses its rawness and add the onion and bell pepper. Cook everything for 5 more minutes. Spoon the peanut butter in there, pour in the chicken broth and add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer, over low heat, for 20 to 25 minutes without the lid on. After 20 minutes the sauce will have cooked down and thickened a bit. Season with salt, pepper, chili powder and brown sugar to taste. Stir in the spinach and as soon as it wilts, turn off the heat. Told you it was a simple recipe.

This one covers all the bases: chicken, vegetables and peanut. How can it not be good? Serve with lots of rice, eat and be happy. Hakuna Matata! ISSUE 1

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horoscope NOmAd

Aries

(March 21-April 19) Don't fool yourself; getting yourself into shape takes hard work. Analyze what you would like to improve upon and focus on it. You can achieve your goals if you present your ideas to superiors. Express your creative talents; don't let your insecurities hold you back. It's time for you to take a stance. Your ability to work with fine but important details will be admired and rewarded. You can expect to receive some favour. Travel should be on your agenda. Romance will be enticing and lead too new and exciting plans for the future. Expect to run into people from your past. Relationships will be serious; you may want to make a long-term commitment to the one you love. Plan a quiet romantic evening for two, to discuss your plans.

Taurus

(April 20-May 20) You'll be able to stabilise a partnership if you are willing

to make a few concessions. Hidden assets will come in handy if you get involved in an innovative business venture. Ask for help or an extension on your deadlines. Professional opportunities are apparent. Go after your goals, ask for a raise or sign new contracts. You can develop a good working relationship with others if you are willing to share your ideas. You can make professional changes if you spend time looking for other ways to make a living. Attend seminars that will help you learn more about starting your own business. It's time to make a change. You'll get tired if you've taken on too much.

Cancer

(June 21 -July 22) Appearances are very important, right now. Make a special effort to look your best. If you follow your intuitive feelings, you'll be able to obtain more information than you need. Excitement will make it very hard for you to keep your cool. Use your enthusiasm

to throw a little spice into your relationship. It won't cost you anything but you'll get plenty of attention.

Leo

(July 23- August 22) Your interest in philosophy and history will spark an interest in travel and foreign cultures. Look into the possibilities and talk to people who have taken journeys that interest you. Your partner is not likely to share the same ideas as you do. Try to be honest and open or you will have difficulty coming to terms with problems that arise. Don't pretend to be what you're not. Your efforts will be appreciated and reciprocated. Try not to eat foods that don't agree with you.

Virgo

(August 23- September 22) You'll have the drive to accomplish anything and won't let anyone stand in the way of your progress. Don't reveal too many personal secrets. Empty promises will leave you feeling cold. Expect to have problems with co-workers or employers. Stick to your own work and make sure that someone else doesn't try to take credit for your effort. Don't let your energy rundown. You can have whatever you want if you use your intellectual charm. Your passionate mood and persuasive tactics will be well received by your mate. Plan a nice quiet weekend for two.

Gemini

(May 21 -June 20) This week's scenario is highlighted by your ability to use your magnetism and person skills to impress others. Listen to their passions and try to put a positive spin on their ideas. Treat them well, as you may need their support later on. Appearances are very important, right now. Make a special effort to look your best. If you follow your intuitive feelings, you'll be able to obtain more information than you need. Excitement will make it very hard for you to keep your cool. Use your enthusiasm to throw a little spice into your relationship. It won't cost you anything but you'll get plenty of attention.

Scorpio

(October 23- November 21) Keep your eyes open in order to avoid getting blamed for

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something you are not involved in. While shopping you may tend to spend more than necessary, do a price check before you decide to make a purchase. Expect a co-worker or your boss to be a little underhanded. Intimacy with clients may cause problems, watch what you say and to whom. You need to pick up some additional knowledge before risking your personal reputation. Be prepared for any kind of situation to occur.

Sagittarius

(November22-Docember 21) Use your discipline to make the changes necessary. You let your paperwork pile up and now's the time to clear your desk. You'll feel much better knowing the work is finally done. You'll be the target for rumours if you are not discreet about your personal

life. You need a change of pace, time to take a break. You will be emotional regardTry to communicate a little more with your mate. Pleasure trips will result in a better understanding of your relationship and your commitment to one another. Don't make rash decisions. You have to make up your mind before you decide to throw in the towel.

appreciated. You need to make the changes necessary for your happiness. Don't be afraid to ask for help. You'll be surprised at how willing others are to help you out. It won't be easy to please family, friends or in-laws. It is better to please yourself than bang your head against a wall. Don't hold back; say what you think. You need to relax and get in touch with your own feelings. Acceptance is the key.

Capricorn December 19)

22-January

You may not be judging the situation properly. A positive mental outlook will result if you are honest with yourself. Competitive sports activity will help to ease stress you feel. You'll need good discipline to accomplish your personal goals. Your ability to get your point across may sting, but in the end, it will be

Aquarius

(January 20- February 18)

Catch your breath, count to 10 and try another tactic. Laugh at your own mistakes and learn from them, otherwise you'll always feel defeated. Love and romance will spark you to out do yourself. Make a definite plan of action and follow it through. Try not to worry more than you need to. The stress you feel will lessen as the week progresses. Your energy will be well used if you can focus it on organising and renovating your living space.

Pisces

(February 19-March 20)

This week's scenario is highlighted by your ability to blend into the background. You can get ahead by using your insight into future trends. Your greatest limitation this week, will be yourself. Don't hesitate to become involved in a new business venture, but be sure to get promises in writing. Partnerships will be favourable, and you will come up with sound ideas. You need to be optimistic about your future. Don't let criticism stand in the way of a good service or product. Drastic alterations in your position will occur if you haven't taken the time to www.nomadquarterly.com

Libra

(September 23- October 22)

You need to re-decorate, but don't overspend on that either. Concentrate on your work. Someone you care about will be erratic and eager to pick a fight. Try to say as little as possible and don't become involved in their affairs. You need to talk to the big spenders. Run your ideas by them and see if you can't get a backer and a partner for your concept. Push your product and you'll see great returns. Make the decision to go back to school or study something that will help you change your direction in life. Your time may be limited in the short term, but overall it will be worth your while. deal with small but important details in your job. Be prepared to make the changes. Don't become involved in secret matters even if you do find them intriguing. Be careful how you handle the situation, or you could end up taking the blame for something you didn't do.

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REDIRECT < NOMAD TRAVEL TIPS, GUIDE & DIRECTORY

GORILLA IN OUR MIDST

An 11-day trip with World Primate Safaris costs from £4,600 per person, full-board, vehicle with driver/guide, transfers, but excluding international flights. Call + 44(0)1273 691 642 or visit worldprimatesafaris.com. BA supports the work of The Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund (saveagorilla.org), dedicated to the conservation and protection of the mountain gorillas, working with the people around the national parks.

BUSINESS HOURS 8.00 - 12.00 noon 13.00 - 17.00 hours Banks - 8.00a.m - 2.00 p.m 8.00 - 3.00 p.m. Fridays CLIMATE Bounded on the South by the Atlantic Ocean and on the West by La Cote d"ivoire, the East by Togo and the North by Burkina Faso. Ghana is a tropical country. The South Western part is located within the warm wet forest zone similar to the Amazon. Accra, the capital, is located in the dry equatorial cones. Kumasi is in the wet savanna. It lies between 4ø and 11 ø North at the equator and has a coastline of 540 km. Northern Ghana has a range season from about April to October. The rest, of the year is hot and dry, with temperatures up to about 38øC. In Southern Ghana the rains last from April to June and again from September to October. Generally temperatures are between 21 - 31øC. The rains are usually restricted to specific times each day during the rainy season; they are not continuous throughout the day. PACKING THE RIGHT CLOTHING Since the climate is warm and tropical all year round be sure to pack light washable cotton clothing and casual wear. Do not forget your sunglasses and comfortable walking shoes. There are no restrictions on what men and women may wear. Slacks and shorts for both sexes are permissible.

ACCRA INSIDE OUT

ELECTRICITY If you are bringing along any electrical appliances, they should operate on or be adaptable to 220 / 240 volts. Electric outlets in Ghana accept either 3pronged, or sometimes 2-pronged. British or Continental European type plus or converters. THE BUKA Telephone: 0302 782 953 / 0244 842 464 Website: http://www.thebukarestaurant.com/ HOW TO GET THERE Several international airlines, including Ghana International Airline, operate regular scheduled flights from Ghana to major cities in North America, Europe, Africa and the Middle East. PASSPORT Required by all. VISAS Visas are required by most non-residents except ECOWAS nationals. Ghana Missions and Embassies abroad will assist in issuing individual as well as group visas. HEALTH REQUIREMENTS Yellow fever vaccination required by all exept infants under one year.Please do not forget to bring your health Certificate which shows that you have a yellow fever vaccination. You are also advised to consult your doctor well in advance of your visit so that you may begin the usual anti-malaria treatment.

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MONEY/CURRENCY Ghana's currency is the cedi which comes in denominations of GHC 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins come in denominations of 1 GHC and also 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p & 1 pesewas. Foreign currency can be freely exchanged at any Forex Bureaux in the country. Apart from Forex Bureaux, some commercial banks also exchange foreign currency. Banks are normally open from 8:30 am to 4:00 p.m. Monday through Friday. Some banks also operate on Saturdays from 09:00 - 14:00 GMT . Most large commercial banks will also have automatic teller machines located outside and available during and after hours. Most will take VISA and a few other check cards. TRAVELLER"S CHEQUES All banks and Forex Bureaux accept Traveller"s Cheques although the rate of exchange may be slightly lower than for cash transaction. CREDIT CARDS The most widely accepted credit cards are Visa and Mastercard. These cards are accepted in major hotels, restaurants, banks and businesses . Your card may be used for pay-

ment at most all airlines, leading hotels and major supermarkets. However be cautious when using your credit to avoid fraud. HOTELS Ghana, offers a wide range of hotel accommodation for her growing economy and tourist industry; cosmopolitan, metropolitan, district town and country hotels and park lodges of varying comfort, elegance and convenience. Ghana"s hotels are classified according to the international star-system with 5-star as the highest and one-star being the minimum international acceptable quality. In addition, there are local budget hotels with minimum standards of sanitation and comfort. Hotel License is issued by the Ghana Tourist Board and displayed at the hotel reception. (Click here to search for specific hotels) ENTERTAINMENT Most cities and towns have facilities for night life such as cultural centres to theatres, cinema houses, discotheques, pubs, street cafes and casinos. Consult your hotel reception for what is on and where to go. KOTOKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Kotoka International Airport (KIA) is located in Accra. It is the major entry point to the country and is accessible from any part of the globe. CAR RENTALS There are car rentals companies registered by the Ghana Toursit Board which offer car hiring services. GREETINGS Greeting is an important social function that marks an open heart and mind. It also expresses one's concern for the other. Refusing or failing to greet another person may indicate that you do not care for the other's welfare.

CAPE TOWN: MOTHER OF ALL CITIES

WHO TO CONTACT: Cape Town Tourism: (021) 405 4500 HOW TO GET THERE : Cape Town is served by an international airport. The beaches themselves are all easily accessible by road and most are served by a variety of bus and tour companies.

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BEST TIME TO VISIT : Winters are cold and wet, but Cape Town summers have perfect beach weather, with extra-long days. WHERE TO STAY : There is a huge variety of accommodation in Cape Town to suit any budget. AROUND THE AREA: Highlights include a trip up Table Mountain, a tour to Robben Island, and a few hours (or days) in the nearby Cape Winelands. RATANGA JUNCTION Who to contact : Tel: +27 (0) 21 550 8504 Email: info@ratanga.co.za Web: www.ratanga.co.za

To lighten age spots and sun-damaged skin, mix the juice of 1 lemon, 1 lime, 2 tablespoons of honey, and 2 ounces of plain yogurt. Gently massage into each spot. Use at least once a week. - Create your own tinted lip gloss. Simply mix any of your favorite lipsticks with a dab of Vaseline. - A little bit of red or orange in the center of the lips makes them look fuller. GUGULAM

How to get there : Situated in Century City, Cape Town, Ratanga Junction is a mere 10 minutes from the Mother City along the N1 highway, on the Sable Road turns off. It is on bus and taxi routes. Best time to visit : Any time of year, though winter can be very rainy which will dampen the fun of taking a rollercoaster ride outdoors. Where to stay : Cape Town has a plethora of accommodation options to suit all pockets and there are a number of hotels and B&Bs in the area. Around the area : Plenty of excellent shopping at Century City shopping mall right next door

BEAUTY TRICKS

GUGULAM OFFICE: 312A, Rosebank Mews TELEFAX: +27 11 447 7527 MOBILE: +27 82 966 1816 EMAIL: gugu@gugulam.co.za CONTACT PERSON: Gugu Mlambo Msomi AFRICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TOP BEST SPAS

- Do you need a quick glow to your skin and all over healthier look? Bend over at the waist, as far as you can possibly go, and hold to the count of thirty. - For cellulite, scrub the skin with a bristle brush or loofah. Brush in slow sweeps, always toward the heart. There are gloves and mitts available to do this, but they're not necessary. Try to do this at least five minutes every day. - Raw potato slices contain potassium to take away dark circles under the eye.

LIZ EARLE SPA: www.lizearlespa.co.za MOLORI SAFARI: www.malori.com KILINDI SPA: www.kilindizanzibar.com FORDOUN SPA: www.fordounspa.com ISSUE 1

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