1.1.1 Philosophy of wave surfing

their bloodstream. They are called the adrenaline junkie and the individuals who participate in extreme sports all seem to fall into this group. Articulate to the statement “People can become addicted to the risk and may have to keep raising the limits to get the reward they seek” by psychiatrist Bernard D. Beitman, M.D, Professor of Psychiatry and Neurobehavioral Sciences at the University of Virginia, the adrenaline junkie addicted to reach the maximum level of satisfaction by doing extreme and dangerous activities in order to fulfil individual achievement or to distract and channel the stress in their own

effective way. And adrenaline hormones play a major role in pleasure and addiction.

Extreme activities could also trigger the pituitary gland and hypothalamus to secrete endorphins, the pain-suppressing and pleasure-inducing compounds that are mimicked by opiates, including heroin. Basically, the "high" feelings or maximum satisfactions level get from these dangerous activities is similar to the “high” feeling human would get from cocaine or amphetamine (speed). The effect of these stimulants is to flood the brain with dopamine; an adrenaline high is similar.

1.1.1 Philosophy of Wave Surfing

Articulate to “Waves are not measured in feet and inches but in increment of

fears” by Buzzy Trent, pioneer of big wave surfing, could be explained that surfing could not be consider as extreme sport if the surfer surfs on the small safe waves. The adrenaline junkie who tend to seek excitement in stressful activities to release adrenaline hormones in their body system favour big waves surfing which is whole new adrenaline experience that adrenaline junkie surfer need to survive and escape the fury of thousands gallons of water crashing behind them. The adrenaline rush out of surfing could be described as the satisfaction of surfer hitting a perfect wave, the perfect barrel, the perfect trick and getting out safely from the wave. The adrenaline rush does not happen if surfer repeatedly surf in the same wave condition as human brain will get use to the same

routine. Luckily, the beauty of wave surfing is that every wave have no condition alike even in a slightest way. The wave characteristic is always different.

Surfing could be very safe or surfer could get injured or it could be very dangerous up to a good chance of dying. It depends on the condition of the surfing spot and surfer‟s abilities. As long as surfer keep the safety margins and respect the sea, they could be safe with low chance of injuries and almost zero chances of death. The severe injuries and death could occur from drowning after getting hit by multiple waves that keep surfer under the surface until suffocated and possibilities of hitting the sharp rock. The last hazard is shark attack since the best surfing spot around the world are exposed to shark attack. Basically, the big wave surfing could get extremely dangerous even the surfer is strong and well-trained. For big wave surfing, if surfer falls from the wave, surfer has to get up to 50ft (15m) beneath the surface; the surfer has 10 second to reach air before the next wave strike.

However, this dangerous excitement is what adrenaline junkie looking for. The adrenaline is as addictive as any artificial drugs. A true fanatic adrenaline junkies may spend their lifetime doing adrenaline-rush activities and made it a life career as it a hobby for them. An adrenaline junkie may suit easily their life with drama and conflict instead of extreme activities. They are usually the opposite of others and may argue or pick confront just for the rush associated with the experience. There are a few symptoms that probably been experienced if someone undergoes an adrenaline rush such as sudden greater strength than individual usually have. The individual will notice the increasing of strength in the body and the heart beat becomes more frequently faster than normal beat. Then, adrenaline rush could be used to protect human body. If a person ever injured himself, there will an automatically injection by the adrenaline to the infected body parts Other than that, adrenaline hormones helps to protect the person from pain. Eventually, once the adrenaline wears off, individual will be able feel the pain, but for the time being, the adrenaline rush would stop the pain temporarily. Thirdly, from the vision of touch, hearing, sight and smell, the sense will be dramatically heightened when undergoing an