2011 Car Care

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DAILY NEWS NORFOLK

Tuesday, October 11, 2011


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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Fall Car Care Helps Forgo Frosty Frustration Properly preparing your car for winter is simple and doesn’t require a lot of time or technical expertise. The payback in reduced risk of a preventable breakdown and improved performance is well worth the minimal effort. According to the experts at the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), “cold weather will only make existing problems worse.” Here are a few items that are easy and simple to check before fall turns to winter: First, familiarize yourself with your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturers recommended service schedules. No one knows your car better than the company that manufactured it.

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Tires: Worn tires can be extremely dangerous on rain, snow and ice. Examine tires for remaining tread life and uneven wearing. Be sure to check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks as well. All season radials or winter tires are a wise investment for those who must drive in inclement weather regularly. Tire pressure should be checked once a month and tires rotated as recommended. Don’t forget to check your spare and be sure the jack functions properly.

Cooling System: It may be time for a flush and refill if it’s been more than a couple of years since the coolant has Motor oil: The easiest way been changed. The level, condition, and concentration to protect and improve the performance of your car is to of the coolant should be checked periodically. A 50/ upgrade to a highperformance synthetic motor 50 mix of antifreeze and water is usually oil and change it regularly. recommended. Additionally, Synthetic motor oils have the condition of hoses better low temperature should be checked for cracks fluidity and a lower and leaks. coefficient of friction than mineral-based motor oils. Windshield Wipers: Check This will help ensure easier the condition of your wiper start-ups on cold weather days. Some motor oils, such blades and replace them if as Royal Purple, are actually needed. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad, formulated with molecules winter blades to fight ice that chemically bond with build-up. Stock up on engine components for winter-formula windshield continuous engine washer solvent. You’ll be protection. It’s also been proven in independent tests surprised by how much you to improve fuel economy, use. If you don’t have an icereduce emissions and scraper, buy one before you increase horsepower and need it.

The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) recommends “winterizing” your car each fall.

Battery: A dead battery can make a cold winter morning a miserable one. If your battery is beyond its recommended service life, replace it. Top any low battery cells with distilled water. Clean and tighten battery terminals to ensure electricity gets from the battery to the starter on chilly fall mornings. If corrosion is present, clean it with a mixture of baking soda and water, and put on a set of battery washers to keep corrosion from coming back. Make sure the battery terminals and hold downs are tight. It’s also good to clean and lubricate hinges

and the hood latch. Fuel: It’s important to keep gas lines from freezing in cold weather. No vehicle can run if it can’t get fuel. A full gas tank will help prevent moisture and ice from forming. Particularly cold weather may warrant using a fuel deicer to prevent fuel lines from freezing. A block heater is another option that is fairly inexpensive and easy to use. A few minutes in the garage this fall will help prevent a much more timeconsuming and unpleasant experience this winter.


NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

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Avoiding An Auto Repair Rip-Off By Craig W. Armstrong There are many people in life who are valuable to us: a loving spouse, children, extended family-and a mechanic you can trust. Because many of us know very little about car repair, we need a trustworthy mechanic. Many auto mechanics aren’t deceptive; they’re just untrained or ignorant of certain kinds of repair. Here are a few suggestions to avoid an auto repair regret or rip-off. ‘I know a guy...’ This is the best place to start. Talk to your friends, family and coworkers. Which repair shop do they use? How long have they been going there? Would they recommend them? Once you have decided on a shop, contact the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to find out if any complaints have been filed against it. If you are satisfied with what you find, take your car in. Be as specific as possible when

describing the problem; they can’t help if they don’t know what’s wrong. At this point it is a good idea to ask if the shop’s mechanics are ASE (Automotive Service Excellence) certified. Keep in mind that mechanics can be ASE certified in many different areas, such as brakes, engines, electrical systems, etc., so if you have a problem with your brakes, a mechanic certified in engines may be underqualified to fix your problem. Next, make it clear that you want to be contacted BEFORE ANY WORK BEGINS. Most shops are good about this, but it never hurts to remind them. Also state that if anything needs to be replaced, you want the old part. This may stop a rip-off before it starts. A dishonest mechanic is less likely to needlessly replace something if you’re going to see the replaced part. When you find out the diagnosis, take notes. Have the

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price, give them the OK to proceed. When you pick up your car, go over the invoice carefully with them and make sure all charges are explained. Also verify in writing any guarantees that come with their work. We all want to hire someone we can trust, and most mechanics are trustworthy. Once you do find ‘your’ mechanic, you’ll also be able to say, ‘I’ve got a guy... .’

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mechanic explain everything to you in terms you can understand. Ask whether the repairs are necessary or only recommended and then tell them you’ll get back to them about doing the repair. Now it’s time to use your best anti-rip-off tool-the Internet. Do some research; use a search engine and find out if what they told you is accurate. You can even find parts prices online and figure out if they are charging you fairly (be aware that a markup price is standard business procedure). You could also contact a few other local shops and get their price for doing the same repair. If your investigation proves the repairs are legitimate and at a reasonable

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Manageable Means to Reduce the Cost of Auto Insurance Among the numerous costs that come with owning or leasing a vehicle, auto insurance is one that motorists almost universally feel is too expensive. Such consumer concern is one reason for the bevy of auto insurance advertisements on television, with each insurance company seemingly offering lower and lower rates than the competitor whose ad ran two advertisements before. While it certainly helps to comparison shop when looking for auto insurance, there are several other steps motorists can take that might reduce the cost of auto insurance. * Maintain good credit. Insurance providers will almost certainly pull an applicant’s credit report before providing a policy quote. Many consumers might question how this is relevant, but insurance providers are fully aware that a host of studies have shown there is a direct correlation between a person’s credit score and the likelihood that he or she will file a claim. The higher an applicant’s credit rating, the less risky that applicant appears, which could translate to a lower rate. Another reason insurers will examine an applicant’s credit

history is to know whether or not the applicant will pay on time. Like any business, an insurance company wants to get its money on time, and is likely to offer a lower rate to applicants who have a history of paying bills on time. * Carefully consider your choice of vehicle. Insurance companies rate vehicles based on make and model. This rating system is comprised of a host of factors, including vehicle cost, safety ratings and history of theft. The Insurance Services Office devised the

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system, and the higher a vehicle’s score is, the higher drivers will pay to insure that car. While the results of the rating system are not public knowledge, drivers can research which cars are most often stolen and which are typically among the most costly to insure. * Drive safely. Nothing is more effective at lowering auto insurance costs than being a safe driver. A driver’s first at-fault accident could increase his or her rate by as much as 40 percent, a monumental increase for many motorists but one that can be avoided by simply being a better driver. Even if the rates don’t increase by 40 percent, they’re going to increase significantly should a driver be found at fault in an accident, so the best thing to do is to drive safely and defensively at all times. Should an accident occur and it’s the driver’s first accident, consult an insurance agent to

see if the company has a forgiveness policy that forgives a driver’s first accident. Otherwise one may have to pay the standard postaccident rate increase. * Avoid installment plans. Installment plans might be necessary, but if they’re not it’s always best to pay premiums in full. A monthly installment plan often comes with installment fees, which might not seem significant each month but can add up. If installments are unavoidable, try paying in as few installments as possible. Most insurance companies allow for six-month, quarterly or monthly installments. The more frequent the installments, the more fees drivers can expect to pay. Auto insurance costs are rarely negotiable. But motorists can take several steps in advance of beginning a policy that can greatly reduce what they pay for their insurance each year.


NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Insurance Costs:

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Most Expensive Vehicles to Insure

an M6 probably don’t care about the insurance, as the vehicle itself costs more than $100,000 to take home. 4. Ford Shelby GT500: Its sticker price of approximately $43,000 makes it more realistic for many of the nation’s drivers, who can expect to pay nearly $2,200 per year to insure this muscle car. 5. Mercedes G-Class: Its curb weight of more than 5,500 lbs. might keep you safe in case of collision, but its average insurance cost of more than $2,000 won’t keep your wallet safe when it comes time to ante up. 6. Audi S8: Increasingly popular among luxury auto buyers, Audis are not necessarily as popular among those looking to save their insurance dollars, with an average tab just under $2,100. 7. BMW M5: Like the M6, the MD is not for those with shallow pockets, but it’s more than $2,000 yearly insurance tab is something some buyers might want to avoid. 8. Hummer H2: Coming in at just under $2,000 to insure, the Hummer H2 and its 6.2-liter V8 will guzzle some gas in addition to costing you a pretty penny to insure. 9. Lexus IS-F: A sticker price of less than $60,000 might make the roughly $1,800 annual insurance bill easier to stomach. 10. Porsche 911: Porsche drivers are no doubt used to high insurance premiums, and the ‘09 model was no exception, costing a little more than $1,800 to insure. To learn more about automobile insurance, visit www.insure.com.

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The nation’s drivers often groan about the cost of automobile insurance. That reality has led to the proliferation of auto insurance provider commercials on radio and television, each advertising more affordable rates. While the company you choose can influence how much you’ll be paying to insure your next vehicle, a host of other factors can also make a difference in your bottom line. Those factors include personal driving history, the neighborhood in which you live and even how much you drive on a daily basis. Another factor that can influence what you pay to insure your auto is the auto itself. Oftentimes, the type of vehicle you’re driving goes a long way to determining your insurance premium. Insure.com, an online resource providing information to shoppers looking for auto, life, home, and health insurance, notes that the following vehicles proved the most expensive to insure in 2009. 1. Nissan GT-R: With a sticker price of nearly $80,000, it’s no surprise this flashy coup cost more than $2,500 to insure on average. Its top speed of 193 miles per hour (MPH) no doubt made prospective insurers tremble. 2. Dodge Viper SRT-10: Another vehicle with a reputation for speed, the Viper SRT-10 cost drivers an average of just under $2,500 to insure. Something to think about when cruising at 200 MPH, the vehicle’s top speed. 3. BMW M6: Those considering


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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Financing 411: Your Rights As a Borrower As vehicle costs continue to escalate, buyers still appear very fond of financing. Financing allows buyers to acquire a new vehicle without paying for it all at once. Instead they obtain a loan that enables them to make monthly installments, after the last of which they will officially own the vehicle. In general, buyers have two options with respect to financing a vehicle. Buyers can use direct lending, in which they will obtain a loan directly from a lending institution, be it a bank, credit union or finance company. In such an agreement, the buyer agrees to pay the amount financed (the price of the vehicle minus the down payment) and the agreed-upon finance charge over a period of time. That period of time depends on the agreement, but common terms are anywhere from 36 to 72 months. Another type of financing is dealership financing, in which the buyer and dealer enter into a contract similar in principle to the one mentioned above. However,

the dealer can retain the contract or sell it to an assignee, be it a bank, credit union or finance company. Both options are very similar, but one involves the dealer more in financing while the other goes directly to the bank or other lending institution. While some people are wary of financing and intimidated by dealing with lending institutions and dealerships, there are several federal laws in place to protect buyers. Though laws vary from state to state, the following federal laws protect buyers across the country. * Truth in Lending Act: This act requires that, prior to signing any agreement, creditors give buyers written disclosure of important terms of the credit agreement, including APR, total finance charges, monthly payment amount, payment due dates, total amount being financed, length of the credit agreement and any charges for late payment. Buyers new to financing should read over these terms carefully before signing,

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particularly the portions listing monthly payment amount and late fees. Sticker shock at the first payment due notice or late fee could start the agreement off on a very bad foot. * Credit Practices Rule: This requires creditors to provide a written notice to potential cosigners about their liability if the other person fails to pay and even prohibits late charges in some situations. It also prohibits creditors from using certain contract provisions that the government has deemed unfair to consumers. Parents are often the ones most invested in this rule, as Mom and Dad commonly co-sign for their children’s car loans. Parents should familiarize themselves with their own liability to determine if co-signing is worth the risk. * Equal Credit Opportunity Act: This prohibits discrimination related to credit because of a host of individual factors. Those factors include age, race, gender, color, religion, marital status, or national

origin. In addition, this act prohibits discrimination related to credit based on whether or not an individual is receiving public assistance or has exercised their rights under the federal Consumer Credit Protection Act. * Fair Credit Reporting Act: Consumers have many rights, including the right to one free credit report each year. Consumers can simply call one number to notify credit reporting agencies and credit card companies of identity theft. It also provides consumers with a process to dispute information in their credit file that they believe is inaccurate or incomplete. This is valuable should an individual with a strong payment history see any mistakes on their report, such as a missed or late car payment. This act enables buyers to determine if any mistakes have happened with respect to their account and provides an avenue by which to correct those mistakes. For more information on consumer rights, visit the Federal Trade Commission at www.ftc.gov.

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

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Simple Ways to Reduce Auto Costs costs is simply to shop around. Prices vary from company to company, so it pays to do your homework. Get at least three price quotes. You can call companies directly or access information on the Internet. Your state’s insurance regulator may also provide price comparisons. Other ways to reduce insurance costs can be found by visiting the U.S. Insurance Information Institute’s Web site at www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/cars/ autoinsu/autoinsu.htm. * Fuel savings are in the air: The U.S. Energy Department reports that under-inflated tires can increase fuel consumption by up to 3 percent. One study estimates that 50 to 80 percent of the tires rolling on U.S. roads are under-inflated. You could save up to 2 billion gallons of gas each year simply by properly inflating your tires. Secondly, a clogged air filter can increase fuel consumption by as much as 10 percent. Air filters keep impurities from damaging the interior of the engine, so replacing dirty filters will save gas and protect your engine. More tips to save money on fuel are available at www.fueleconomy.gov. An astute consumer can save hundreds of dollars a year on automotive expenses without buying a new car or changing his or her lifestyle. All it takes is a little time and research, and the good sense to choose better performing products.

Like all things in life, vehicles often have a life expectancy. After years of loyal service, brands are discontinued and favorite cars go to that engine-revving place in the sky. Some American brands still burn brightly. Many others have bid adieu. Here’s a look at seven brands no longer available. 1. Mercury 2. Hummer 3. Pontiac 4. Saturn 5. Isuzu 6. Oldsmobile 7. Plymouth

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Today’s economy is forcing many consumers to keep their cars longer. Unfortunately, insurance rates, maintenance and repair costs, and vehicle ownership expenses continue to rise. Gasoline reached record high prices in 2008 and the U.S. Energy Information Administration expects fuel prices to rise again in the future. Thankfully, you don’t have to alter your driving habits or buy a new car to get some relief. Here are some quick, inexpensive, easy ways to save money with your car. * Slick way to reduce fuel costs: Upgrading to one of today’s modern high performance motor oils can make a meaningful improvement to your car’s fuel economy and engine life. For instance, independent studies have documented that Royal Purple motor oil improves fuel economy by as much as five percent and significantly reduces engine wear. Using high performance synthetic motor oil, as opposed to conventional oils, also allows for more miles between oil changes, reducing maintenance costs and the amount of time spent on maintenance. You’ll pay a little more for premium motor oil but the savings in fuel and reduced maintenance costs more than make up for the higher price. * Reduce your insurance costs by doing your homework: One of the simplest ways to reduce insurance

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Finding Your Way With GPS Systems By Ronda Addy Today new vehicles come with all sorts of extras like heated seats, satellite radio and navigational systems. Not everyone can afford a new vehicle, though, but fortunately for them, there are options. They can install many of the extras in their current vehicle, including a GPS system. There are three types of GPS systems to choose from. These include: • In-dash systems are usually permanent and require professional installation. This type of system consists of a car stereo with a built-on monitor (of varying sizes), a hideaway connection box containing A/V inputs and outputs, and an external GPS antenna. The stereo replaces the factory model currently in the vehicle and the hideaway goes under the front seat or is mounted behind the dash. When the system isn’t in

use, it can be used to watch DVDs. • Portable systems have smaller screens and can be moved from one vehicle to another. This type of system consists of built-in speakers, integrated GPS antenna, voice prompts and touchscreen controls. Some come with the ability to make handsfree calls and voice command recognition. The system attaches to the dash or windshield and plugs into the cigarette lighter. Portable GPS systems should be installed in a place level with the instrument panel but out of the way of the air bags. To prevent glare, the screen should be angled toward the driver. • Handheld systems also have smaller screens but can be moved from one vehicle to another and used when camping or boating. They come in different shapes and sizes, can be operated with one hand and are the least expensive of the three types of

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systems. For exclusive use in a vehicle, the system should have voice prompts, built-in speakers and a large, bright screen. There are several features to consider when shopping for a GPS system. Some of the more important ones to look for with in-dash systems include ease of use, accuracy, speed, screen size and resolution, internal memory, points of interest, realtime traffic data, touchscreen controls and dash opening size. Some of the more important ones to look for with portable and handheld systems include map availability, points of interest, storage capacity, antenna, display size and color, touchscreen features, voice guidance quality and built-in speakers. You will also want to consider the options for mounting the system and

powering it outside of your vehicle. Before you buy a GPS system, you should research the various types available and take various factors into consideration such as the mapping capabilities, reception and accuracy, power, durability and capacity. Keep in mind the more features the system has, the more it will cost. Almost any GPS system will get you from here to there. The differences lie in the features you want, so choose wisely.


NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

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Take The Bite Out Of Winter Driving

By Ralph Lee There’s enough not to like about winter without having your car break down on the road. Take these steps while the weather is warmer so your body temperature doesn’t rise because of car problems when the temperatures drop. Manual labor: Break out your owner’s manual, grab an iced tea (remember, you’re doing this while it’s still warm out) and find a comfy chair. Now, read your manual and make sure you’ve been doing all the recommended maintenance to this point. Get the things done that you’ve neglected

and make an appointment to have anything done that’s required in the immediate future. Anything that’s a problem now (hard starts, stalling, rough idling) can be exacerbated by hazardous winter conditions. An ounce of prevention: Do a little investigative snooping under the hood to prevent trouble before it starts. Check your belts and hoses for wear. Make sure all your fluids are topped off, including the all-important windshield washer reservoir. When was the last time your anti-freeze was changed? If you don’t know, it may be past

time. Don’t forget the battery. Remove your terminals and use warm water and baking soda to clean your battery’s posts. There’s nothing worse than having everything mechanically sound only to find your vehicle won’t start because the battery is dead. Wiper not wiping? It’s a blizzard outside, but you’re warm and toasty in your smoothly running car. Stay warm by making sure your windshield wipers are in good shape before the blizzard. There’s nothing worse-not to mention dangerous-than having to stop every five minutes, get out of your car and brush the elements off your windshield because your wipers aren’t working right. Check the rubber and make sure there are no cracks or worn spots on the blade. Make sure the blade adheres to the windshield as it moves. If it doesn’t, you may need to adjust the arm for a more snug fit. To ensure your wipers aren’t overly taxed when snow and ice hit, stash a brush and ice scraper in the car to get as much debris off the windshield as possible before you begin driving.

Tired tires The importance of having quality tires to handle whatever road conditions winter may hold can’t be overstated. Make sure your tread depth is adequate to handle the conditions for your area. Look at your tires and inspect them for tread life and uneven wearing. Check for cuts and nicks. While you’re down there, check each tire’s air pressure. Expect the unexpected You’ve done everything right, but the possibility still exists you’ll be left stranded some cold winter night. Be prepared by having some essentials to see you through until help arrives. Clean the junk out of your trunk and put in the following: flares, a flashlight, jumper cables, a shovel, blankets and sand for traction. Have some nonperishable food in your glove box. Don’t go: Finally, if the weather is too bad, don’t drive in it. Break out your favorite magazine or newspaper, grab some hot chocolate and find a comfy chair. The weather will get better...eventually.

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

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By Craig W. Armstrong Living with today’s economy can be a challenge. Prices go up but paychecks often stay the same; making ends meet can be tough. One way to confront this problem is with math. You may consider math another four-letter word. However, better understanding where your hard-earned money is going can help you keep your finances in line...and that takes simple math. One cost that fluctuates a great deal is the cost of gasoline. One week it’s high and the next week it’s probably higher. If you know the mileage your vehicle is getting, however, you might be able to make adjustments and save a few bucks. Like keeping your home clean, vigilance is the key. Clean out your car once a week. If you spend any time in your car you are going to accumulate “stuff” during the course of a week. To keep these items from taking over the interior, you can throw them away, organize them in the car or move them out of the car. Although manufacturers indicate a vehicle’s city/highway MPG (miles per gallon), those numbers will fluctuate based on the driver and driving conditions. So how do you accurately figure the mileage you are getting with your vehicle? First, prepare a worksheet to record data; you can use a notebook or a computer-generated spreadsheet. Whichever you choose, make sure you have a column for each of the following: Date (on which you purchase gas), Odometer Reading, Miles Traveled, Gallons and MPG (Miles Per Gallon). (For budgeting purposes, you may want to keep a record of Amount you spent for gas also.) Now head to the gas station and fill up your tank. Be sure to use the lock on the nozzle handle so that the pump shuts off automatically when the tank is full. Do not top off the tank. Before you leave the gas station, record the date and the odometer reading and set your trip meter.

The next step is easy...just drive. When your fuel gauge registers about a quarter of a tank, head back to the gas station and fill up again. This time, record both your Odometer Reading and the number of Gallons (found on the pump) used to fill up your vehicle. You can find Miles Traveled in two ways. You can look at your trip meter (if it hasn’t been accidentally reset) or you can subtract your current odometer reading from the original reading you logged on your worksheet. For example, if your first odometer reading was 46,526 and your current reading is 46,852, you have traveled (46,852 minus 46,526) 326 miles. Next divide the miles you have traveled by the number of gallons of gas you just used-let’s say 15.2, 326 divided by 15.2-and you’ll have your miles per gallon. In this case, your MPG is 21.4. However, this reading is accurate for only this tank of gas. You will want to average several fill-ups to get an accurate idea of your vehicle’s MPG. Averaging is easy; just add your miles per gallon notations and divide by the number of notations listed. For example, if you have recorded four MPG figures on your sheet, 21.4, 20.8, 22.7, 19.7, add them all together for 84.6. Now divide that number by four and you have your average, 21.2 miles per gallon. So, what do you do with those numbers? See if you can improve your gas mileage. How? The first thing is by performing simple maintenance. Are the tires properly inflated? Do you have the oil changed regularly? Is the air filter clean? Next consider your driving habits. Do you let your vehicle idle for long periods of time? Do you often drive in stop-and-go traffic? Are you a “speed demon”? Do you start quickly and stop suddenly? Making adjustments and then checking your MPG will let you know how much you are saving at the pump. The process will take minimal time, but once you get the hang of it, you might find it fun, imagine that, saving money while having fun with math.


11-A

NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

The Extended Drain:

How Far Can You Really Go Between Oil and Filter Changes? For years, the 3,000 mile mark has been touted as the optimum interval for changing your motor oil and filter. It’s also an oil change interval that continues to be encouraged by the automotive oil change industry. Automobile manufacturers, oil filter manufacturers and lubricant manufacturers are now saying that you can safely extend oil drain intervals, saving you time, money and reducing the impact on the environment. Breakthroughs in lubrication and filtration are two reasons why oil change intervals can safely be extended. Numerous factors come in to play in determining the oil change interval you should follow, including whether your car is under warranty, the car’s condition, the way you drive it, as well as oil and filter selection. Every automobile manufacturer establishes a recommended oil change interval for each model they manufacture. Oil change intervals are now typically 5,000 to 7,500 miles for many new cars. You should follow your car manufacturer’s recommendations on oil and filter change intervals while the car is under warranty. If your car is no longer under warranty, you can extend your oil change and filter intervals by upgrading to a high quality synthetic motor oil and high performance oil filter. This will reduce the number of oil changes, saving you time and money while reducing the amount of oil purchased and disposed. There are a number of quality synthetic motor oils available from which to choose. High performance synthetic motor oils such as Royal Purple, Mobil1, etc., typically have much greater oxidation stability than conventional mineral-based motor oils. Most lubricant manufacturers will give a recommended number of miles you can drive between oil changes under normal conditions.

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If you elect to upgrade your motor oil, you should also upgrade your oil filter. Inexpensive filters are typically made with the 3,000 mile interval in mind. These filters often use low-quality paper media for filtration and they deteriorate rapidly after 3,000 miles. There are a number of new high performance premium oil filters on the market from manufacturers such as Royal Purple, Wix and K& N. These filters are made for extended oil drain intervals. For example, Royal Purple uses a proprietary long-life, micro-glass media that provides protection for 12,000 miles. It also provides an increased level of protection due to the density of the filtration. If your car is still under warranty, stick with the car manufacturer’s recommended oil change intervals. If your car is no longer under warranty, you can go beyond the typical 3,000 mile oil change or beyond the oil change monitor’s recommendations by upgrading to a high performance synthetic motor oil and high performance oil filter. Just be sure to check recommended change interval for both the oil and filter you purchase.

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

How to Drive in Dangerous Conditions

Individuals who live in areas of the country where the temperature and weather changes throughout the seasons have to adapt their driving to meet the road conditions. Weather-related accidents are some of the most prevalent but can be largely prevented if the proper driving techniques are followed. Some of the more dangerous driving conditions include heavy rain that causes hydroplaning, driving on ice and driving in heavy snow. Hydroplaning: Hydroplaning occurs when water on the roadway accumulates in front of a vehicle’s tires faster than the weight of the vehicle can push it out of the way. The water pressure can push the vehicle up on a thin layer of water, essentially breaking the tires’ contact with the road. In a matter of seconds, a driver can lose control and end up swerving out of his or her lane. It is important to follow a few

guidelines to prevent hydroplaning. First, keep tires well maintained. Worn-out tread can contribute to hydroplaning, as can inadequately inflated tires. Certain tread patterns are more capable of diverting water away from the tires. Ask a professional about which tire tread to choose. Next, realize that the higher the speed, the higher the propensity to hydroplane. At lower speeds, it is generally rare to hydroplane, unless the water puddles driven through are exceptionally deep. Reduce speeds when it is raining. Also, lighter vehicles are more prone to hydroplaning. Again, if driving a compact or lightweight vehicle, slow down when water is on the road. Should hydroplaning occur, let off the gas and do not apply the brake or turn the wheels. Once the car slows down and retains traction, steer and brake accordingly. Ice: Ice is a problem that plagues

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drivers when the temperature drops. While some ice can be detected on the roadway, thin sheets of ice blend in with the asphalt and are known as “black ice.” Black ice can be undetectable until a car begins to skid. Many people have trouble driving on icy roads. In fact, winter conditions often lead to accidents. More than 500 fatalities were attributed to snowy, icy roads in the 2008-2009 winter season in the U.S. It is important to make some modifications to a vehicle if driving on ice will be commonplace this season. At the least, proper tire inflation is important to maintain traction. Tires should also be checked for tread, as bald tires will do little to grip the road. Individuals who want even more protection should consider switching to snow tires for the winter. These tires are made from a softer rubber so they can better grip the road. They may also feature a different tire tread for even more traction. Snow chains can be used to offer greater grip. However, speeds will have to be greatly reduced when chains are in place. Reducing speed is helpful when driving in an inclement condition, including on ice. It helps a driver to better correct a situation and react. If skidding is experienced, gently steer in the direction of the skid without applying the brakes. When traction is resumed, slow

down and correct the car. Heavy Snow: Driving in snow is different from driving on ice, but they share some similarities. Snow can be melting and freezing on roads simultaneously, depending on whether salt and sand have been applied by road service personnel. Therefore skidding from hydroplaning and ice may occur. Another hazard from snow is reduced visibility. Driving under blizzard conditions is very dangerous. Wind and snow can cause white-out situations, essentially wiping out any visibility. In these instances, a driver should pull over to a safe area and wait out the storm. Some people experience trouble with snow accumulation on roads that have not been plowed. A lower-profile car with smaller tires may not be able to navigate through snow drifts and end up getting stuck. This can prove dangerous if the car stalls in the middle of a road where visibility is poor. The best advice for driving in snow is to assess the situation. If it is falling heavily, it can be safer to stay home. If a person must drive, reduce speed and leave a very large buffer zone between the vehicles to allow for emergency stopping. When approaching intersections or stop signs, begin braking early to prevent skidding through. Also, be extremely cautious of other vehicles, as they may be experiencing trouble stopping as well.

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13-A

NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Keeping That Superb Sound By Tresa Erickson Take a few road trips from time to time? Enjoy winding through roads with the windows down and the breeze flying through your hair? Ever think about what all of that dirt and dust circling through your vehicle does to the audio system? Clogs it up, doesn’t it? Dirt and dust are an audio system’s worst nightmare. After a while, they can build up and wreak havoc on the system. All components of an audio system must be cleaned periodically and the dirt and dust removed to keep it in good condition. To minimize damage to your audio system, you want to keep as much dirt and dust from entering the components as possible. On really windy days when the dirt and dust is flying, consider keeping your car windows shut. This will cut down on the amount of contaminants entering your car. Wipe down the faceplate of the audio system weekly, using

swabs to clean around knobs and buttons, and dust off the CD load slot. Keep your CDs clean as well. To prevent fingerprints on the surface, handle discs on the edges and store them in their cases when not in use. Clean your discs periodically. Pick up each by the edges, slide a finger through the center and wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth, moving from the center outward. Wipe across the disc, not in circles, to prevent making small scratches. If that doesn’t do the trick, purchase a cleaning kit and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure you clean your speaker grilles from time to time as well. These can easily become clogged with dust and dirt, which can distort the sound. Dust them off frequently, and for really dirty grilles, consult your owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. They should be able to provide you with further

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Maximizing Vehicle Resale Value By Tresa Erickson Depreciation is a major factor in buying and selling a vehicle. The average auto can lose 30 percent of its value after the first year. After three years -- the duration of most leases -- the car’s value may have decreased by as much as 50 percent. Those looking to sell or trade-in cars will need to emphasize maintenance to get the most for their vehicle. There are ways to reduce a vehicle’s depreciation and improve its resale value, whether selling to a private buyer or trading in the auto to a dealership. 1. Buy the “right” car in the first place. Some models and brands simply hold their value better than others. Dealerships will promote this fact when attempting to sell a car. Choosing these types of vehicles can mean a better resale value later on. 2. Keep geography in mind. A convertible won’t be as popular in Alaska as it will be in southern Florida. Don’t buy a vehicle that

Buying a vehicle with a better resale value is one way to reduce depreciation.

goes against the norm in a particular geographic area. Otherwise, sellers will be left with a car with little resale value. 3. Stick to standard colors. Fad colors, such as lime green or bright

orange, may turn heads, but they’ll be harder to find buyers for later on. This could reduce the asking price for the vehicle when it comes time to sell. 4. Choose the right upgrades. A

#

fancy stereo system or top-of-theline navigation system won’t necessarily add value to the vehicle. However, leather seats, a sunroof and an automatic transmission are popular among buyers. 5. Maintain the vehicle. Keep records of maintenance that show the car was well cared for. Follow manufacturers’ maintenance schedules for oil changes and tire rotation, among other things. 6. Trade in like for like. A seller may get a better trade-in rate on a used car if he or she is buying the same make in the new vehicle. For example, a Chevrolet dealership may offer a better trade-in price for that old Malibu if the owner is looking at a new Traverse. Keep in mind that if a buyer is thinking about keeping a car until it’s racked up tons of miles and is generally older than dust, depreciation values really won’t matter much. In those instances, he or she should simply purchase the car liked the best.

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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

15-A

Heed The Warning By Ronda Addy When you start your vehicle, the instrument panel lights up with all those little symbols. As soon as the computer verifies everything is working properly, the lights go off. On occasion, however, a light remains on and it is best that you find your vehicle’s handbook and look up a detailed explanation of what the light means and if the vehicle is safe to drive. Although some warning lights are specific to a manufacturer or model, there are some that are universal. Let’s take a look at some of the more common warning lights and what you should do in the instance they occur. The air bag warning light indicates there is a problem with a crash sensor, an air bag module, the air bag wiring or the air bag control module. The vehicle is safe to drive, but the air bag won’t deploy if you are in an accident. You should have the problem checked out and repaired as soon as possible. The brake warning light indicates that the parking brake is on, the brake fluid is low or there is a serious hydraulic problem. You should check the parking brake first and then the brake fluid level. If it’s low, fill it. If the light remains on, you may have a sensor fault. You should have this checked out as soon as possible. If you press the brake pedal and the light comes on, one of the hydraulic circuits in the brake system has lost pressure and the vehicle may not be able to stop. Whatever you do, don’t attempt to drive it. Have it towed somewhere to be repaired. The warning light for the antilock brake system (ABS) indicates temporary loss of the system. Your brakes will still work, but the antilock braking you need when coming to a sudden stop or sliding on a wet surface won’t be available. You should have your vehicle checked out as soon as possible. If the ABS and the brake warning lights both come on, your brake system

has a serious hydraulic problem, in which case your vehicle is not safe to drive. If you are out driving when this occurs, pull over as soon as possible, being careful you don’t step on the brakes too harshly, and have a tow truck come get the vehicle. The check engine light or malfunction indicator lamp indicates there is a potential emissions fault. There are a number of reasons why this light might come on, such as dirty fuel injectors, a loose gas cap, fouled spark plugs, the failure of an engine sensor or an emissions control system problem. To find the exact nature of the problem, a mechanic must attach your vehicle’s diagnostic connector to a scan tool. You may continue to drive your vehicle unless another light comes on. In that case, you should have your vehicle checked out as soon as possible. If the light comes on while you are driving, stop the vehicle, switch the engine off for two minutes and then restart it; this may reset the engine management system. The charging system warning light or the battery charge warning light indicates your vehicle is running on the battery. The charging system isn’t producing enough current for the vehicle’s electrical needs. Your vehicle will run as long as the battery has a charge, which may not be very long in the daylight and even less at night. To get more life out of your battery, turn off all unnecessary electrical devices (radio, heater and defroster). The problem could be the result of a number of things, such as corroded or loose battery cables, an alternator malfunction or a damaged drive belt. If you don’t see a problem with the battery cables or the belt, start the vehicle and turn on the lights. If they are dim, you have a problem with the alternator or some other electrical part. You should have the vehicle checked out immediately. The oil pressure warning light indicates the engine is low on oil

or there is no oil pressure. Don’t drive your vehicle. If you do, you will run the risk of severely damaging the engine. Start by checking the oil level. If it is low, add some and then turn on the engine to see if the light goes out. If it does not, you could have a bad oil pump or a faulty oil pressure-sending unit that will need to be replaced. The temperature warning light is not a light to be ignored. If it comes on while you are driving, stop immediately and turn the engine off. If you don’t, you could cause extensive damage to the engine. Once the engine cools off, unscrew the radiator cap and check the coolant level. Never remove the cap when the engine is hot or you could risk getting burned by coolant or water spraying out. Add coolant and do a quick check for leaks around the radiator and hoses. Start the vehicle and proceed with care. If the light comes on again, you have an internal problem. There are a number of things that can cause the engine to overheat besides low coolant, such as a failed water pump, something blocking the radiator airflow, a broken cooling fan, an

overworked engine in really hot weather, the towing of a heavy trailer or the buildup of sludge inside the cooling system. Depending on the make, model and year of your vehicle, there are other warning lights to look out for. These include: • Lamp out indicator light, which lets you know you have a headlight, taillight, stoplight or turn signal light out. • Seat belt warning light or chime, which lets you know someone hasn’t buckled their seatbelt. • Low windshield washer fluid warning light, which lets you know the windshield washer reservoir is low. • Door ajar warning light, which lets you know one of the doors or tailgate isn’t shut all of the way. • Service reminder light, which lets you know your vehicle is due for an oil change. • Emissions warning light, which lets you know there is a problem with the emissions sensor or your vehicle has reached a certain mileage. When a warning light comes on, your vehicle is trying to tell you something. Listen to it and take care of the problem.


16-A

NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Stocking Vehicle Roadside Repair Kit Regardless of a vehicle’s age, a roadside emergency can occur at any time. Drivers should be prepared with a basic kit of tools and equipment to get the car back on the road as soon as possible. At the very least, a roadside emergency can be an a minor inconvenience. At the worst, it can compromise the safety of the driver and passengers. Anything from a blown-out tire to an overheated engine can necessitate pulling over for a quick fix. Having the right tools can make the process go far more smoothly and help drivers avoid the seemingly endless wait for service personnel to arrive. Stocking a roadside repair kit requires some necessities. It’s also a good idea to routinely check the stock of the kit to be sure everything is in working order. Here are the items to keep on hand. First aid kit: Handling major or minor emergencies may require a first aid kit to mend scratches, abrasions or minor burns. Become familiar with the kit before it is

needed. Cellular phone: It’s never a good idea to talk on a cell phone while driving. However, a mobile phone can prove invaluable if there is an emergency. Simply call for assistance instead of having to seek out a phone or flag down a motorist. Flares or warning light: A breakdown at night or when visibility is poor can be dangerous. Keep a warning light, caution triangle or flares in the trunk to illuminate the location of the vehicle. Inflated spare tire: Always keep a spare tire on hand, as tire blowouts or leaks tend to be one of the most common causes of breakdowns. Be sure to have a tire iron, jack, and lug wrench. Spare fuses: A burnt-out fuse may be responsible for an electrical problem. Replacing the fuse is an easy fix. Jumper cables: A dead battery can be revived with jumper cables, provided another car is available to offer the jump. A portable battery

booster is another handy tool in case there are no other cars to recharge the battery. * Flashlight: This simple tool can be invaluable at night, especially if keys or tools are dropped. * Gloves, cleaner and rags: Cars are full of oils, fluids and grease. That means even a simple repair can get a person dirty. * Pen and paper: Ideal for leaving a note or taking down information in the event of an

accident. A disposable camera can also be handy to take photos of an accident scene. * Money: When traveling, always carry cash for emergencies. Not every place takes credit or debit cards. * Snacks and water: A roadside emergency may mean some time spent stranded. Keep a stash of nonperishable items in the car to alleviate hunger pangs and keep riders quenched.

Tips To Save At The Pump

It’s easy to panic at the gas pump when you watch those numbers fly by as you fill up. Much of the increased seasonal cost of gas can be offset by adjusting driving habits and implementing a preventative maintenance plan, says Rich White, Executive Director of the Car Care Council, which is offering these tips:. • Properly tuning your car improves gas mileage by an average of 4 percent. • Keep tires properly inflated for another 3 percent. • Replacing dirty spark plugs can reduce mileage by two miles per gallon. • Change oil regularly and gain another mile per gallon. Driving behavior also impacts fuel efficiency, so observe the speed limit and avoid excessive idling, along with quick starts and stops.

79589


NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

17-A

Getting Ready for Winter on the Road Proper Tire Care is First Line of Defense For most people, their car is their lifeblood. It gets them to work, to school, to their lives. And in these tough times, many are keeping their cars longer than ever before. It might be tempting to neglect regular maintenance tasks in the name of saving money, but in the long run, that could end up costing you even more. And proper maintenance is crucial now, with winter just around the corner. When it comes to car maintenance, tire care is the first line of defense. But according to the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA), an alarming number of consumers don’t pay attention to their tires, and the results can be costly -- and dangerous. Underinflated tires pose a definite safety risk: * The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) acknowledges that underinflated tires contribute to many accidents throughout the year * 50 percent of vehicles have at least one underinflated tire * And only 9 percent of vehicles have four properly inflated tires! But it doesn’t have to be this way; proper tire care is simple. Continental Tire recommends getting in the habit of taking five minutes every month to check your tires, including the spare. “Your tires are the only part of your vehicle that actually touch the road when you drive,” says Joerg Burfien, director of R & D, Continental Tire. “It only takes a couple of minutes of maintenance each month to keep your tires working at their best, and the resulting safety

benefits far outweigh the time it takes.” The RMA’s “PART” campaign gives consumers an easy way to remember the basics of monthly tire maintenance: Pressure: According to the RMA, underinflation is a tire’s no. 1 enemy. It results in unnecessary tire stress, irregular wear, loss of control, and accidents. A tire can lose up to half of its air pressure and not appear to be flat! And the air pressure listed on the side of your tire is NOT the correct air pressure for your vehicle. That number is the maximum air pressure for the tire. The correct tire pressure can be found in the car’s owner manual, on the gas tank lid, on the driver’s side door edge, and on the door post. Alignment: A bad jolt from hitting a curb or pothole can throw your front end out of alignment and damage your

tires. Misalignment of wheels in the front or rear can cause uneven and rapid treadwear. Rotation: Regularly rotating your vehicle’s tires will help achieve more uniform wear. Unless your vehicle owner’s manual has a specific recommendation, the guideline for tire rotation is approximately every 6,000-8,000 miles. Tread: To prevent hydroplaning and skidding, your tires must have proper tread depth. The minimum tread depth is 2/32 of an inch (1.6 mm). The easiest way to check your tread depth is the penny test. Take a penny and place it in the tread of your tire. If part of Lincoln’s head is covered by the tread, your tires have enough tread. If you can see Lincoln’s entire head, you should buy a new tire. In regions with harsh winters, Continental recommends that

Keeping tires properly inflated is the first line of defense in safeguarding a vehicle from accidents on the road this winter.

drivers switch to winter tires when the temperature dips below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Colder weather brings on a whole new set of driving challenges --slush, ice and hardpacked snow -- and once the temperature drops below that 45-degree mark, so does an allseason tire’s ability to grip the road. Many cars in the U.S. have all-season tires, but they just aren’t built to hold the road in the same way that winter tires do. Winter tires provide safety and control in cold weather as well as snow and ice, because they are specifically engineered to deliver a 25 to 50 percent increase in traction over allseason radials. That’s enough added traction and braking power to avoid a severe weather-related accident, Burfien said. New for this winter season is Continental’s ExtremeWinterContact, engineered with an advanced tread compound and structured siping to dramatically improve ice and snow traction. These elements also deliver noticeable improvements in wet performance, excellent fuel efficiency, extended wear and ride comfort, and considerable improvements in dry performance. Take care of your tires during winter and they will take care of you. Remember your winter tires are not designed just for snow. They are designed to increase traction in cold winter conditions. Make the switch to winter tires when the temperature hits 45 degrees. For more information, visit www.continentaltire.com.


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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Love It or Lease It:

Benefits of Buying and Leasing Vehicles Shopping for a new vehicle can be as agonizing as it is exciting. Though it can be fun to find and drive a new vehicle, it can also be nerve-wracking, particularly if the vehicle has a high price tag. As any buyer knows, there are always options when it comes to finding a new car. Those options are buying and leasing. Each has its distinct advantages and disadvantages, and buyers should consider the pros and cons of each before making a commitment. Benefits of Buying Buying a vehicle, even in the current economic climate, still has many advantages. * Ownership. Ownership is often the most discussed benefit when deciding to buy or lease a vehicle. For those who will finance the car, once the terms of that agreement have been met, the car is now an owned asset. The same thing goes for anyone buying a pre-owned vehicle and paying for it upfront. The fact that the vehicle is an asset is a security blanket. In the case of unexpected financial hardship, for instance, the vehicle can be sold, whereas a vehicle on lease cannot. * Depreciation. While it’s true a car depreciates tremendously in value the moment it’s taken off the lot, that’s only half the story. Much of a vehicle’s value depreciation is in its early life. That depreciation slows as the car ages, especially if the car is well taken care of. The longer a driver owns the car, the lower the depreciation expense will be. On the contrary, when leasing a vehicle, the individual is often paying the most for the high rate of early-life depreciation, an expense the dealer accounts for when determining the monthly lease expense or down payment if there is one. * Insurance. Lease terms often mandate extensive insurance coverage, or what’s commonly referred to as “full coverage.” This can prove costly. However, drivers who own their vehicles (financing often requires

Before signing on the dotted line, shoppers should consider the benefits to both buying and leasing and determine which is the best fit for them.

extensive coverage as well) outright have more freedom to pick and choose their coverage, which can greatly reduce their annual insurance bill. Benefits of Leasing As beneficial as buying can be, that’s not to say leasing doesn’t also have its advantages. * Commitment factor. When leasing a vehicle, the financial commitment is not as big as it is when buying. Many lease

agreements have something similar to down payments known as capital cost reduction payments. These are often small and don’t affect the monthly lease payment, whereas a small down payment when buying could greatly affect the monthly payment, resulting in a higher interest rate and higher monthly commitment. The commitment factor also extends to how well a driver likes

a particular vehicle. Lease terms can be as short as 12 months, allowing for drivers to change cars after just a year should they discover they don’t like the car. When financing or buying outright, opting out is substantially more difficult, forcing owners to either sell the car or attempt to work out a deal with the institution that made the loan. * Monthly cost. When leasing a vehicle, a buyer’s monthly payment will be lower, and in many cases substantially so, than if that buyer were to finance. * Reliability. There is typically very little risk when leasing a vehicle as to that vehicle’s reliability. The manufacturer’s warranty might not have expired yet and because of mileage restrictions common to most leasing agreements, the vehicle likely has not experienced any significant wear and tear. When buying a car, particularly a used car from a private citizen, the warranty is typically expired and there’s no telling how much wear and tear the vehicle has gone through.

Save On Gas With Car Care

In today’s economy every penny counts. So what if you could control how much money you spend on gas? No, I’m not talking about walking instead of driving; I’m talking about maintenance on your car to make it run more efficiently. You may be thinking “maintenance” that means an auto shop and even more money.” Don’t worry; these are things you can do on your own. First, are you a professional race driver or a stunt driver, or do you drive a Lamborghini? Odds are none of these apply to you, so don’t buy high-octane gasoline. Most likely your car doesn’t require high octane, so don’t waste your money. High-octane

gasoline will not improve your gas mileage, you could save hundreds of dollars over a year’s time. To find out the proper fuel grade, check your owner’s manual. When you’re filling up (with low-octane fuel), keep a few things in mind. First, don’t overfill. If you fill your tank to the top, a certain amount will leak out, not to mention possible spillage on your clothes or shoes. Next, when you are finished giving your car a drink, tighten the gas cap. Gasoline evaporates easily, and if the cap isn’t tight, your money will disappear into thin air. Pump up the pressure. You have probably heard that underinflated tires can cause your

engine to work harder. Properly inflated tires cause less friction with the road and thus your car doesn’t need to work as hard. Check your owner’s manual for recommended pressure (psi), buy a tire pressure gauge and check the pressure every month. If tires lose pressure, pump them up. Consider the next tip an investment: Keep the engine tuned, the air filter clean and the oil changed. Unless you are a mechanic or know your way around an engine, you may need to have these services done by a professional. Even though you may have to spend some money (check for specials and coupons in the newspaper), consider them as preventive maintenance.


NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

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Today’s Features A Long Way From A Model A By Ronda Addy In 1903, Ford introduced one of the first mass-produced family vehicles, the Model A. With a top speed of 45 mph, the Model A came in a two- and four-seater model with a three-speed transmission. The available options were a roof (rubber for $30 or leather for $50), a rear door and a rear tonneau, the rear compartment containing two seats for passengers. To top everything off, the Model A came from the factory only in red. Today, it’s hard to imagine driving a car without a radio or air conditioning, much less a roof (unless, of course, it’s a convertible). Recent or potential automotive technologies would have made early Model A drivers think they were in some sort of spaceship rather than a car. Keep in mind that not all this technology is available yet due to issues like cost, reliability and packaging. The Adaptive Transmission Control (ATC) system is designed to recognize individual styles of driving and adapt the transmission shift parameters accordingly. There are two types

of ATC: adaptive shift scheduling and adaptive shift quality control. Adaptive shift scheduling assesses driving style to determine when to upshift or downshift. It also identifies uphill or downhill gradients and hard cornering. Adaptive shift quality control uses vehicle and environmental information to improve the quality of shifts. It also adjusts shift smoothness to suit driving style. The system gives drivers the responsiveness of a manual transmission without the manual shifting. Advanced (smart) power windows are designed to stop closing and go back down when an obstruction is detected. The system works in one of two ways. It either detects changes in the electrical current and stops or reverses the window, or it relies upon a light curtain or infrared detector to stop the window before it comes into contact with an item. The system reduces the chance of getting stuck in the window and suffering an injury, especially with children and pets.

Delayed accessory power grants certain features of a vehicle power even after it has been turned off. Delayed accessories include the radio, message center, power windows and power moonroof. The power remains on for at least 10 minutes after the key is turned off and as long as the front door isn’t opened. Double locking makes it impossible to open a locked vehicle door from the inside or outside without a key or remote transmitter. Anyone attempting to gain entry into the vehicle must break a window and crawl though it. Once the key is turned in a specific sequence, the double lock is activated. It is deactivated when the key is used to unlock the door. With keyless entry, the lock button is pressed twice. It is deactivated when the door is unlocked with the transmitter. The added security for parked vehicles is a major benefit of this feature. Driver alertness monitoring sounds an alarm when the

driver’s ability is impaired due to drowsiness, intoxication or inattention. There are other more complex systems that can sound warnings of impending collisions or veering off the road. The monitor works by using either a camera to detect lane markers when monitoring a driver’s ability to stay in their lane or infrared cameras to detect eye motions and compute the driver’s trends. Drivers are kept alert, which helps keep them and others on the road safe. The all-weather/night vision or vision enhancement system provides drivers with information about objects in a vehicle’s path that cannot normally be seen at night or under adverse conditions. Through radar, infrared lights or a receiver in front of the vehicle, data is fed into a computer that processes the information and then creates a displayed image in front of the driver. Data gathered from radar or infrared receivers mounted on the front of a vehicle is processed, and if something is detected, an image is displayed in front of the driver. Safety is much improved during adverse or nighttime conditions. Other special features either currently available or possibly coming in the future include: • Advanced (smart) restraint systems • Anti-submarine seats • Electronic toll collection • Electronic message center • Global window opening and closing • Memory profile system • Side vision aid or blind-spot detection system • Remote lighting system • Reverse and parking aid • Theater lighting/illuminated entry • Vehicle Emergency Messaging System (VEMS) While this technology sounds like major leaps forward, someday it too will be outdated and future drivers will be thinking how could those people possibly get by without such and such.


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NORFOLK DAILY NEWS, Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Understanding Oil As Your Cars “Lifeblood” By Craig W. Armstrong You regularly get your car’s oil changed, but do you ever wonder why? Sometimes referred to as a car’s “lifeblood,” oil keeps the engine clean and lubricates its parts at the same time. Oil also transfers heat away from the combustion cycle. Sound complicated? It’s really not. A car’s engine is full of metal surfaces that move at extremely high speeds. If these parts didn’t have oil between them, they would rub together and the friction would tear them apart. At the same time the oil is keeping the surfaces apart, it is also transferring heat away. OK, so that makes sense, but

how can something as dirty as oil keep a car’s engine clean. It’s actually pretty cool. An engine operates by combustion. In the simplest terms, a tiny explosion occurs, causing a piston to go up and down. This part of the process and many others produce many byproducts. These byproducts include silicon oxide and acids, which can be harmful to the engine’s parts. This is where the cleaning part comes in. Oil holds these contaminates in suspension and keeps them from forming on the engine. You hear the term viscosity associated with oil. Viscosity is defined as the property of a fluid that resists the force to cause the fluid to flow.

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Basically that means how much pressure can it withstand before it moves. When you see a container of oil marked SAE 10W40, what does it mean? First, the SAE stands for The Society of Automotive Engineers. The numbers tell you about the oil’s viscosity. The higher the number, the more resistant to flow; the lower the number, the easier it flows. Oil marked 10W40 means that it can flow at a 10 viscosity grade when it’s cold and a 40 viscosity grade when it’s hot, with the W meaning winter. Keep this in mind; oil gets thicker when it’s cold and thinner when it’s hot. When it’s cold (which makes oil thicker), it must remain thin enough to flow (10); when it’s hot (which makes oil

thinner), it must be able to remain thick enough to do its job (40). In essence, you’re getting oil that can work all year around. With this in mind, let’s say that you live where it gets really cold in the winter and stays mild in the summer. Then an SAE 5W30 oil might be the best for your car...make sense? As for how often to get your oil changed...the debate rages on. The safest bet is to go by what the owner’s manual says. Now you can see why it’s important to have your oil changed. It’s got a lot to do and after a while it will lose the ability to work properly. The next time someone says “I need to get my oil changed,” you can say, “let me tell you a little something about oil”.


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