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INTRODUCTION CONCEPT MARKETING POSITION PRICE ARCHITECTURE COMPETITORS THE CONSUMER BRAND FOCUS 4
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PRODUCT ANALYSIS BRANDING MARKETING SUPPLY CHAIN CRITICAL PATH CONCLUSION BIBLIOGRAPHY APPENDICES 5
Northeast Nancy is a Men's Streetwear Brand, that designs for the Chinese various urban youth who inspired by a specific subcultures.
INTRO...
Many brands categories themselves as ‘streetwear’ or as ‘urban’, and in the recent fashion catwalk shows of many ready-to-wear brands like Balenciaga has the products that leading the ‘street style’ trends. As Johnson (2015) said in the BOF report, the collection of those ‘streetwear’ brands have the street elements on the clothes, but it does not define the brand.
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The aim of this report is to analyze different aspects of the brand and finally formed as NORTHEAST NANCY. From the inspiration - the Chinese Hip-Hop culture, the design development ideas, to the material sourcing and the final collection. The core value of the brand, the market position, the main competitors and consumers are involved in this report. Finally, the future branding and marketing of Northeast Nancy will also be mentioned.
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CHINESE China as one of the most ancient countries in the world, that full of historic cultures, but, hardly ever have its own native youth subcultures. The fact is most of the subcultures in China are from other countries. In the recent 20 years, most Chinese are open-minded, they follow the trends in western countries, and study what they are doing, then transform them into a new version in Chinese style.
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Here is an example of the inspiration of Northeast Nancy this season — the underground Hip-hop culture in China. Hip-hop is one of the mainstream music types in the world, however, in China, there was lack of people love hip-hop music, and most people only listen to the western rap songs. One of the reason is that even most Chinese think that they can not make good hip-hop songs. Then, there are a group of underground young people, they love hip-hop culture and want to make their own rap song in Chinese. They put the traditional Chinese instrument into the music beats, and use their local accent to rap, then they found out it sounds better than the way they rap in mandarine. They follow the rule ‘keep real’ and they ‘rap real’. They write verse that describes their life and Chinese society, creating unique beats that even the famous rappers like. They battle in a huge basement and record in a small studio, they hustle for their dream. Some of them are discovered and signed by the American music company, so more people around the world can enjoy the Chinese rap songs, even what they heard is ‘CHING CHONG CHANG’.
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Northeast Nancy is standing for ‘Nancy’ (the designer & founder) who is from northeast of China. When it is translated in Chinese, ‘Nancy’ has the same sound of the southwest in Chinese. So the name becomes four words - ‘ 东 北 南 西 ’, which means four different directions, it representing the brand can reach more consumers and develop wide further in the world.
NAME
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Northeast Nancy* is a human name, it gives people more imagination about who the person is, what he/ she look like and what he/her lifestyle is. Every consumer of the brand is ‘Northeast Nancy’, some of them wear the same item, but everyone styles it in different ways, this is the aim of Northeast Nancy, that people wear our innovative clothes to be the unique individuals.
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In the October 2016, Northeast Nancy applied for the trademark registration on Clothing (class 25), for three logo and names. In the 21st of November 2016, the registration is accepted by the Trademark Office of the State Administration for Industry & Commerce of the People's Republic of China. However, the logos will change in the future, when the new logo is designed, it will be registered as a international tradmark, follows the application procces of WIPO - World Intellectual Property Organizaiton (Intellectual Property Office, 2016). Once it is successfully registered, the Trademark application accepte notifation from Chinese Trademark Office. 14
logo and the name of Northeast Nancy are protected worldwide. 15
Northeast Nancy is a contemporary menswear brand that inspired by Chinese underground cultures and wishing to discover more compelling subcultures, which can reflect the real life of Chinese groups. Northeast Nancy wants to introduce the subculture with Chinese style to the world again, something that the young people are familiar with, but in a different way. Our products can be a form of media that communicates Chinese and the world’s young generations.
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Northeast Nancy can be a person in everyday life who loves or inspired by the specific culture, wants to express him/her attitude on clothes. Northeast Nancy offers bold colour and patterned pieces using highquality fabrics. Shapes and functional details are influenced by traditional tailoring techniques. Every item is labelled and numbered, so each person can get a unique piece.
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ARKET POSITION MAP
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S W O T
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Northeast Nancy sits on the bridge brands level in the fashion market. It is positioned at the top end of the high street, creating a bridge between the gap of high end and luxury. It sells high quality clothing with reasonable prices, so that it is at the high end of affordable (Banton, 2014).
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GAP
There are many new contemporary streetwear brands in the fashion industry, there are also many bespoke tailoring brands that have great traditional tailoring technique that serves high-class people or businessman. It is not rear to see that people wear hoodie inside of a clean cut trench coat, wearing a cap with their blazer or wearing smart suits with a pair of white rainer. The fact is people love mixing these two totally different styles, sometimes the chemical reaction of the mixture is much stronger than other combinations.
(sporty) Streetwear + Tailoring = ?
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During the market research, there is a brand - Daviamumford does upcycled clothes by deconstruct the suits and reconstruct them with metal zips or sweatshirts. The idea and silhouette of each garment are inspirational, Northeast Nancy would take this idea of deconstuct suits further in a more contemporary way of using fabrics and colours.
After the market researching, there is a gap of a type of clothes is discovered. There are garments like Tommy Nutter that the suits full of contemporary patterns, and there are casual menswear designs that have tailored shapes and details like Agi&Sam. However, there is lack of brands do the combination of spoty streetwear and tailoring.
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The definition of streetwear is ‘fashionable casual clothes’ (Collins English Dictionary, 2012), so even the tailored casual wear or sporty casual wear is everywhere, the ‘Sporty tailored streetwear’ can make Northeast Nancy unique to the thousands of fashion brands in the fashion market. Northeast Nancy aiming to do the mixture of sporty streetwear with tailoring details. 31
Price Architecture
Price Architecture Price Architecture
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COMPETITORS
New arrivle in CROQUIS colleboration collection.
In China, there are hundreds of menswear brands, which can define by three popular brands types. The first is the casual wear brands like CROQUIS, this type of brand that has large consumer basis, they know what Chinese men normally like, they focus on the comfortableness of a garment rather than unique designs. The second is the celebrity's streetwear brands, such as TIANC, this type of brand obviously that held by a famous celebrity. The main products are T-shirts or shorts with an iconic slogan or a specific pattern of the celebrity. The final one is the independent designer brands, for example, Fengchen Wang. There are so many rising young designer brands in China, each designer has their own style and thoughts, however, the products of them whether are too complicated to be accepted or are too expensive that most people can not afford.
Designer brand, Fengchen Wang.
TIANC, the celebrity brand.
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KEY COMPETITORS The key competitors of Northeast Nancy are the streetwear brands that are popular in the young generation. They share the same market level, price point with Northeast Nancy but never the same style. The competitors are Supreme, A-Cold-Wall*, C2H4 and Fengchen Wang.
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Every streetwear brand’s competitor is Supreme, it has earned much consumers loyalty, it is shown at the front door of every Supreme shop every week. Every garment is sold out on the official website, each product from the previous collection can bid up for ten times more than the original price. There are more people travelling from overseas for buying the real products in the store. The big success of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton shows the power they have now.
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A special Case Study from Supreme of the way they promote on social media and branding. Supreme focus on the visual experience, so Instagram and Facebook are their main platform to promote and share news and campaigns. Once they released the lookbook online, then they will promote on the third-party editorial fashion accounts, so more people will see the photos and be interested. There are many cult accounts on Instagram owns as many followers as the official account. Some of them announcing about any news and new release dates of Supreme, Some of them are resellers, who sales the first-hand products from the new collection to the missed out people. Supreme also has its own weekly schedule for every new selected products or collection arrive in store, as it is mentioned by Deleon (2016)on BOF ‘…it's more like a feed than a traditional fashion cycle’. Consumers always keep the excitement for the new products every week and they can get a preview on the social media before the new cycle starts. On every Thursday, there will be a new collection arrive in store, and there is much youth start queuing at the night before.
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A-Cold-Wall* is a new brand that only has almost three years history, it caught the eyes of buyers and fashion editors immediately, now it is one of the most popular streetwear brands in the world. The using of trend-leading fabrication and materials shows the talents of Samuel Ross - the designer who was a graphic designer. The foil shining fabrication and the industrial vibe branding are the big feature of the brand.
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C2H4 is a menswear brand from Los Angelus, but the director and designer is a Chinese young girl. This is the reason why it is one of my biggest competitors, because, in China, most young people prefer the brand from overseas, comparing to another similar brand that is from China. There are many famous Chinese rappers are wearing their products. It had successful collaboration with Kappa, the products are sold in many boutique stores and online shops worldwide. 44
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Fengchen Wang has similar fashion aesthetic and design inspiration with Northeast Nancy, the designer of Wang also from China who studied fashion design in London and started up the brand. The most recent collection of Fengchen Wang S/S18 is ‘made in China’ which is the same theme of Northeast Nancy A/ W18. This brand is registered both in the UK and China, it is leveled as ready-to-wear, which is not as the same as Northeast Nancy.
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S o c ia l M e d ia
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Followers C
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THE IDEA CONSUMER CONSUMER There are 1.4 billion people in China, 51.27% of them are men. The target consumer of Northeast Nancy is the age from around 20 to 30 years old young generation, which is around 13.84% of the whole male population. There should be more teenagers that age under 20 because they are the people want to show themselves in the crowd. There is a possibility to gain female consumers because many women like to wear unisex or crossgender clothes.
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The primary consumer of Northeast Nancy are the young people from 20 to 30 who have financial incomes to support the expense on clothing in China and the UK. They want to try new things, new brands, sometimes DIY the details on clothes to make it special. They buy Northeast Nancy because of the unique pattern and details, found it from the social media and want to have a try. They are interested in the Chinese subculture or a group of them, they want to join the Northeast Gang.
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David Chen
• From Taiwan live in London • Rapper also a student • Had own personal rap album • Always at the front que of Supreme drop day • Love making desserts • Green • Higher Brothers • <Cool>
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CONSUMER PROFILE CONSUMER PROFILE
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O C E S
C Y R A D N
R E M U S N O
The Secondary Consumer of Northeast Nancy are the people who love the behind story of every collection, they are interested and inspired by the specific culture of China. They think Northeast Nancy is dope and want to join the Gang, they can be teenagers who have a rich background or saving money for the specific piece, they could be up than 30 years old because they think it is cool to wear Northeast Nancy. The consumers will expand to Europe and Asian countries.
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FUTURE CONSUMER
• 21 • Germany • Vegan • Freelance Artist • Creat own style • Oversize or tight? Both! • Hip-hop music • Vintage makeup
The future consumers of Northeast Nancy are females. There are many females love unisex style or wearing menswear. When Northeast Nancy gets more consumer bases and brand awareness, there will be a sub-brand or another line for womenswear. It will be a similar style in a cute version. Then the consumer profiles will be from all around the world, especially in America.
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INFOGRAPHIC REPORT
OF ONLINE SURVEY
A result has been taken out through the results of the survey. There are 14 people are male over 30 years old from China. Most of their clothes are bought by their wife, they trusts their wife’s tastes, they hardly have time to shop and they don’t like shopping. The brands they shop are the casual menswear that the average price is around £100 for a jacket. For the age of early 30s, they normally shop in high street brands (refer to the results in appendics).
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21% 4%
How many time do you shop in a month? 60
How much do you spend on clothes in a month? 61
‘As younger generations show an increased desire for traditional menswear, tailoring is now in the spotlight’. （Trunzo, 2017）
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According to many of the trending forecast reports of 2018/19, tailoring clearly is back to the mainstream list now. The new trend â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;street tailoringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; appeal on many fashion brand catwalks such as Avoc, Dior Homme, Martine Rose, Damir Doma and one of my biggest competitor A-coldwall. Oversize and patterned coats are still popular on street, people like to wear them with a slouchy hoodie, a branded top or a normal t-shirt with a slogan or a photo replacement.
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The fabric suppliers are mainly from Guangzhou, China. It has the biggest fabric market in China in lowest price. During the summer, we went to the fabric market and got a lot of samples and business cards from the fabric and trim suppliers, the price of each yard in Guangzhou is almost ten times cheaper than the price in London. However, most of them only sell fabrics to the companies and factory, if you want to get just a few meters, you need to pay more 5RMB on each yard. Many of the trimmings are customizable, so you can print the brand logo or slogan on most of the places, and even on a zip. 66
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"MADE IN CHINA " - Higher Brothers' song - Rap - Hip hop fashion - what they wear "Made in China" - Mass production Chinese factories - Manufacturing
INSPIRATION
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"Northeast Nancy" - streetwear + tailoring - Deconstruct tailored jacket - Shape / details Made in China song - Lyrics Meaning - Print & Textile
" S h e s a id s h e d id n' t l o ve m e , s h e s a id s h e d id n' t l o ve m e , S h e l ie d, s h e l ie d . S h e a l l m a de i n Chi na s h e a l l m a de i n C h i n a ".
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NORHTEAST NANCY A/W18
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MANUFACTURING The manufacturing process will be in the Chinese factories. For the beginning of Northeast Nancy, there will be a small limited amount of each garment in the collection, which around 50 pieces each. Most big factories in Guangzhou do not do a few products, but there are many small factories in Zhengzhou do, where our studio is located, it will be saving much shipping fees than producing in other cities. When there are more consumers and products demand, the amount of each product will increase, however, it always will be the limited edition. On every garment, it will be labelled and numbered by handwriting, it will be made in the studio, as well as other details.
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After the research of the manufacturer in Zhengzhou, it only take about ÂŁ15 to make a prototype from a 2D drawing, if you already have a pattern, it will be cheaper. There is a factory that can take any amount of clothes, and they have better quality than others. They can making a high quality, half bespoke garment in seven days from pattern making to the final shipping. However, the price is depends on the how complex the garment design is.
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PRODUCT ANALYSIS
R - rare 0% - 10% of the collection A - average 15% - 30% of the collection B - basic 60% - 80% of the collection
Accessories Range Each collection will contain some accessories in this range, and some accessories for the specific subculture, for example, there will be some gold chains in the accessories range. If the products are popular, there will be an indipendent line for them. The price is from 20 pounds to 250 pounds.
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Some developments based on the orginal logo of Northeast Nancy.
More logo designs regards to the Chinese meaning of the brand's name. 92
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Creating the graphic logo by laying out the letter N.
Final decision to place the 'Nancy' on the northeast corner of the 'Northeast'.
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Making final adjustment of the shape and size of the word, and make it into different colour versions.
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The Label/tags label/tag designs
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CASE STUDY 1: C2H4 There are some labels from C2H4 previous collections . They use small ball chains to attach the label on clothes, so customers can easily take it off.
On the clothes of their collection with Kappa, there is a 'form' on every piece, that customers can write their name on it, so it will be personal and a specific piece for the person. 99
CASE STUDY 2: A-COL-WALL*
NORTHEAST NANCY LABEL
Stitching idea
The labels of A-COLDWALL* has the same brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s industrial vibe by using the hard semi-transparent material and the cable tie to connect to the clothes. In the recent collection, they produced a iron graphic accessory that is loved by their consumers. 100
Embroidery idea
Screen print idea
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On the back of piece is the number of the clothes and the collection name, so every piece is unique and no one can copy this.
The label of Northeast Nancy is inspired by the previous brands, the first layer is a rectangle calico from the waste of toiling or dropping. It will be screen printed as the brand logo at the front and a template at the back, and our staff will hand write the details. It is sustainable, and when people take it off from the label ring, they can stitch the piece on wherever they want, so the garment is customized, and unique. The second piece are two different textured transparent plastics with the brand logo. The label will connect to the clothes with a silver ring that is just around 0.5 pence for wholesale in China. The ring then could be a key ring or as a decoration on outfits if the consumers like.
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cyl wo e d e ven cof rie shp nd pin y gb ag
£1 each
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SOCIAL MEDIA
SOCIAL MEDIAs According to the results of which social media that people use the most, WeChat is the most popular one in China, however Northeast Nancy just using it for promotion. Weibo is the second popular media that people can browsing and posting interesting stuffs in it, we have a Weibo account mainly for communicate with our Chinese customers. Instagram is poplar around the world, it will be the main social media to share our news with the consumers around the world. Facebook and Twitter account of Northeast Nancy will announcing exciting news and campaigns only.
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WEBSITE: www.northeastnancy.com
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Where do you usually shop you clothes?
‘Fashion is not art, its industry’ —Franca Sozzani (Quoted in LATEWEAR, 2016)
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According to the results of the questionnaire, most people love shopping online in China, because it is super convenience and fast. The biggest e-commerce company Alibaba known has the online shopping website Taobao take up almost every Chinese life. On the day 11th November, it is ‘Single Day’, but for most people it is ‘Online Shopping Day’, in this year it started with hitting $5 billion in the first hour (Armstrong, 2017). It is said the e-commerce of China will bigger than the US, Japan and other big countries. There are more international people buys from Taobao, so having a online shop in Taobao is essential, one of Northeast Nancy’s competitor also has a shop in Taobao. Because Chinese don’t like browsing the official websites, if they want to buy a piece from a brand, they would go to Taobao and search, and it will have the item.However, having a official online shop is important, it will be easier for consumers from all over the world to buy the items in the collection. 113
For helping consumers to reach the best online shopping experience, there are two questions are made for it. 60% people returned their purchase few times in their experience, and the high rate of the reason are fitting problem and the clothes they bought was not what they expected. Thus, on Northeast Nancy’s online store, there will be many detail pictures and the description for the fabric. The size chart will contain all the measurements of the item in each size. Through browsing the competitors websites, three of Northeast Nancy’s competitors have online shop, but Fengchen Wang does not. C2H4’s website is easiest to shop. A-Cold-Wall’s shop is complicated, people have to sign up the newsletter first, then they will get a password to assess the shop. For Supreme, it is hard to see all the items in a page, they just shows the detail of each, people need to click into the page and almost every click is wasting time, because when you open the new page, the item 99% is sold out.
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LOCATIONS The ideal location of Northeast Nancy's shop. On Brewer Street in London, where the competitors and the similar market level brands locate.
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Another ideal location of Northeast Nancy's shop in Beijing, China. In ' 輿ĺ?&#x2022; ' (Xidan) Where the big shopping malls, department stores, buyers shops and other brand stores locate. People come to Beijing would definite to go there for shopping.
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Visual Merchandising Case study of visual merchandising from Selfridges’ window and Levis’ outside store decoration. This is the best way to catch consumers’ eyes on the street. The main features of Northeast Nancy are colorful pieces and breaking the boundary of the sporty streetwear and tailoring. So for the window display, it should be showing the key pattern of the season and giving a styling idea to consumers.
The ideal brand store interior, for Northeast Nancy, there will be graffiti on a brick wall. 118
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Public Relations
A PR helps a brand develop in the right direction, so at the beginning of Northeast Nancy will bring in a professional inhouse PR, who has many experiences working in the fashion industry and able to deal everything with the buyers and medias. She/He will be training a intern, who will be our future in-house PR, because it will cost much for the professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s salary. When the brand wants to hold a campaign or event, or ask celebrities to wear our clothes, we will need to find a PR agency to help us, and they can communicate with our in-house PR.
For Sale Promotion, Northeast Nancy will attend some sample sale events, and having pop up shops around London, Beijing and Chengdu, where has the most Chinese underground rappers. For every event, there will be one piece that is special numbered, and when people buy the products, they will receive an accessory for free. However, the total amount of Northeast Nancy's products are limited, there won't be many sales, only once a year at the beginning.
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THE THIRED PARTY PR Agency Fashion Agents Every product of Northeast Nancy is limited numbered, so we will never do wholesale. Because we are a new fashion brand we have no consumer bases and not brand awareness, it is better to hand it over to a fashion agent, so the products can be displayed in their showroom. Since they knowing the buyers and they should have a list of clients that suits my brand, Northeast Nancy can be introduced to more shops. However, our products should be good enough to let them feel confident that we will sell enough to make the relationship worthwhile. The agents would not buy the collection from the brand, they will see the existing stockiest that the brand has, and they work on a commission basis deal that take ten percent of all sales (Meadows, 2014).
A person who is working in a PR agency in China, said that they are able to writing reports and articles to promot on the leading fashion websites. Normally when a brand find them for hosting an event, after that there is an option, if the brand wants to ask them to promot on the press or not.
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The big even is hosted in Long Beach, young people from all over the world who loves streetculture will go to the event.
Studio Sale These are some influncial online shops in China and the world, they are the websites that most of Northeast Nancy's consumers often shop at and where the competitors products are sold.
As a young brand with no backgrou nds, the collection are not ea sy to be so ld in th e fam ou s bout ique an d bu ye rs sh op s. So it s im po rt an t to ca ug ht bu ye rsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attention and build relationship w ith them. Having a press sale is way of communication, so Northeast Nancy can introduce the products, they mig ht be interested in. Before the sale, the PR need to send out the look books and maybe free iconic gift from the brand, because the buyers see hundreds of look books in a season, there should a way to make them remembe rable. also a phone call to introduce us and make a invita tion. 125
The results shows that where people usually get fashion news are most from social media and websites, and most people attracted by the advertisements on websites as well. The fact is young people always working on their phones and laptop nowadays, so the way to reach more consumers is on the social media and other online webs. Where do you usually get fashion news?
Since there are more Instagram and Weibo users, they now have a function which especially for promotion. People pay money and select which group of people they want to reach. More people they want, more money they would pay. Northeast Nancy tried promotion on those two different social medias that facing different consumers from China and the UK.
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Instagram WEIBO
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There are the promotion view of each social media, the photos on the right are the results. Northeast tried £8 for two days promotion on Instagram, and £11 for two days on Weibo. The post was viewed by 7976 people on Weibo, but only three people liked the post. Comparing the price of promotion on those social medias, we set a goal of ten thousand people on each, and it cost £30 pounds on Instagram and £23 on Weibo.
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Instagram Blogers
t a h WeC gers Blog
Number of people would buy the products that celebrities or bloggers recommend.
From the lack of interaction on the self-promotion from the social media, the beast way to be known is to asking the popular bloggers to post and introduce Northeast Nancy. From the result of the online survey, there are 50% chance to get more consumers from the famous people influnce. Here are some potential fashion bloggers in different social medias, that Northeast Nancy may ask them to promote in the future. 130
Weibo Bloggers
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Higher Brothers Famous Chinese Rap group
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A$AP Rocky
Famouse Rapper and fashion influncer
Jaden Smith
Famous young and stylish actor who inspires many youth style.
Ambassador Ambassador
Famous Chinese young actor who loves rapping and hip-hop fashion.
Ambassador Ambassador
Jingting Bai
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Are You NORTHEAST NANCY? Every year Northeast Nancy will find a random stylish person who loves our clothes, to be the ‘Face’ of the year. The person will film our campaign photos with the ambassadors, and will receive free products. The aim of this campaign is that Northeast Nancy want to find a way to interact with our consumers, they can share their photos with the specific hashtag #iamNortheastNancy, so the brand can select the person in the crowds.
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The WANTED posters will shows up on the walls in the main cities and also consumer can download it from the official website. The poster is a outline of a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;NortheastNancyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; outline, so consumers can doodling and make it special.
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OFF WHITE X NIKE FENTY X PUMA SUPREME X METRO CARD X NORTH FACE X LOUIS VUITTON VETEMENT X LEVIS X CARHARTT X COMME DES GARCON X DHL X REBOOK X TOMMY HILFIGER ADIDAS ORIGINAL X ALEXANDER WANG UNIQLO X J.W.ANDERSON GUESS X A$AP ROCKY GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY X BURBERRY C2H4 X KAPPA H&M X ERDEM BAPE X ANTI SOCIAL SOCIAL CLUB FRAGMENT DESIGN X A-COLD-WALL
Northeast Nancy would love to collaborate with the young artist for example illustrators and graffiti painters, they have special and great ascetics that can bring the brand more interesting ideas. There is a thought of Northeast Nancy collaborating with the young illustrator, Laura Callaghan. The style of her works is similar with the aesthetic of Northeast Nancy, which are colorful and full of patterns. However, she hardly every drawn male figures, so it will be a great change to collaborate. Northeast Nancy want to ask her to draw the illustration of the final looks as a photo, which means many men are wearing Northeast Nancy in the same space and doing different things. Just like her previous works. The final work will print as posters and post cards, when people purchase any item from Northeast Nancy, they can get them as a gift.
2017 is a big year for collaborations, there are so many fashion collaborations between the different level fashion brands, celebrities and fashion brand, and even some other type of companies and fashion brands. 138
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TERM 1
• #BoomForReal exhibition, getting illustrating inspirations. • Preparing for the tutorial for concept development. • Starting research of final collection.
• Deconstruct suits for more ideas. Screen printing on different texture. • Essay briefing. • Finishing mini portfolio for #LCFBA18. • <Traditional Tailoring Technique>
• 3000 words draft of report. • Branding ideas • CYP introduction draft. • Market research in competitors and botique buyer shops. 142
• Making queationnairs - • Brand analysis - ethos, online and physical. identity prisim and • Planning structure SWOT & PESTEL. and contents for the • Making CYP essay concept development, structure. and word counting for • Online questionnaire each section. and street interview. • Part-time Fair
• Analyse all the online servey report, making into infographics. • CYP tutorial and marketing paersonal tutorial. • Starting layout the pages. • Vintage tailoring studio helping.
• 2000 words draft of report. • Competitors research online. • CYP reference research online. • KWD Solution job interview.
• Finishing concept • Concept development hand-in. development report. • Postgraduate Progression Day, • CYP research, interview meet the MA tutor. people. • Vintage studio internship. • Surgery Session- final questions solving. • Vintage studio intership. 143
The goal of Northeast Nancy is to make the brand well-known and be popular in the Chinese and maybe the world’s youth market. The facts of Chinese young people are: the general definition of ‘cool’ and ‘dope’ is wearing black head to toe, streetwear means slogan and logo printed t-shirts and hoodies. Because of the ‘traditional’ thoughts of Chinese, is not to be standing out in the crowds, there are many young people wants to express themselves but they worried about being judged in the society. Nor th ea st Nan cy h ad a d ee p con si d er at ion of ev er y as p ec t of th e br an d , fr om th e bu si n es s stru cture to th e m ar ke ti ng strate gy. We aske d different pe ople w ho know the fields wel l and asked for suggestions to make us better.
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Northeast Nancy wants to change the situation when more youth dress stylish, the others would not be afraid of dressing differently.
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Northeast Nancy provides the products that combine sporty street style and tailoring details for men who are inspired by the subculture that we discovered from China. There is a huge market of streetwear in the fashion industry around the world, in this year, it helps many luxury brands promote 5 percents growth of the global personal shopping rate, which is around 263 billion Euros (Press, 2017). There is a gap in the market between sporty streetwear and tailoring, and this is the unique selling point of us. Like Matthew Henson says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;the current popularity of sportswear is reflective of an overall shift in the way men approach the way they dress and how they shop. It's more than just a passing trendâ&#x20AC;? (Johnson, 2015). Therefore, Northeast Nancy has considerable prospects in the market.
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BIBLIOGRAPHYTEXT Book Meadows, T. (2014) How to Set Up & Run a Fashion Label. London: Laurence King. Easey, M. (2002) Fashion Marketing. London: Blackwell. Shan, B. (2015) Information Made Beautiful: infographic design. Hong Kong: Sendpoints Publishing Co. Baker, S. (2005) The Global Branding Report. London: About Publishing.
Online articles & E-books Armstrong, A. (2017) China’s Single Day - bigger than Black Friday and expected to smash $20bn. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2017/11/10/ chinas-single-day-bigger-black-friday-expected-smash-20bn/ (Accessed: 16 November, 2017) Banton, C. (2014) Fashion Market Levels. Available at: http://caitlinbanton. blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/fashion-market-levels.html (Accessed: 18 October 2017) China Tax and Tax Laws (2017) Available at: http://www.worldwide-tax. com/china/china_tax.asp (Accessed: 21 October 2017). Collins English Dictionary (2012) Definition of Streetwaer Available at: http://www.dictionary.com/browse/streetwear?s=t (Accessed: 24 October 2017).
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Deleon, J (2016) What Fashion Can Learn From Supreme-Style Product Drops. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/ high-fashion-lessons-from-streetwear-drops-supreme-palace-gosha (Accessed: 30 October 2017) Du, B. (2017) https://zhidao.baidu.com/question/2206882833277493868.html (Accessed: 18 November, 2017) Google (2017) Streetwear Definition. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/ search?q=streetwear+defination&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB719GB720&oq=stree twear+defination&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5437j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=U TF-8 (Accessed: 24 October 2017). GOV.UK (2017) Import and export clothing, footwear and fashion: international trade regulations. Available at :https://www.gov.uk/guidance/ clothing-footwear-and-fashion#import-regulations-in-the-clothing-sector (Accessed: 21 October 2017). Hall, C. (2012) Marketing to China Youth. WWD: Women’s Wear Daily, 01495380, 4/5/2012, Vol. 203, Issue 70. Available at: http://web.a.ebscohost. com.arts.idm.oclc.org/ehost/detail/detail?vid=0&sid=839501dc-1c35-48b89def-0107c99c226c%40sessionmgr4008&bdata=JnNpdGU9ZWhvc3QtbGl2Z SZzY29wZT1zaXRl#AN=74268938&db=teh (Accessed: 27 October 2017) Intellectual Property Office (2016) Protecting your trad mark abroad. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/protectingyour-uk-intellectual-property-abroad/protecting-your-trade-mark-abroad (Accessed: 12 November 2017) Johnson, R.M (2015) Will High Fashion Love Affair with Streetwear Last? Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/willhigh-fashions-love-affair-streetwear-last (Accessed: 30 October 2017) Kang, S. (2013) https://www.zhihu.com/question/19947682 (Accessed: 18 November, 2017) 149
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Press, A (2017) Streetwear Bringing Steady Growth of Global Luxury Market. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/newsanalysis/streetwear-bringing-steady-growth-to-global-luxury-market (Accessed: 5 November 2017) Sharma, A. (2017) Ritualization: A Strategic Tool to Position Brands in International Markets, Journal of International Marketing. Jun2017, Vol. 25 Issue 2, p1-24. 24p. 1 Diagram, 5 Charts. Available at: http://web.b.ebs cohost.com.ar ts.idm.o clc.org/ehost/detail/ detail?vid=0&sid=585686bd-149f-47b8-8764-26b776001bd5%40pdc-v-ses smgr01&bdata=JnNpdGU9ZWhvc3QtbGl2ZSZzY29wZT1zaXRl#anchor= AN0123750243-20&AN=123750243&db=bth (Accessed: 28 October 2017) Trunzo, B (2017) Tailoring- A/W 18/19 Category Update. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/75219/ page/1 (Accessed: 31 October 2017)
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1 APPENDICES
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Street Questionnaire
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Here's other street interview resultes that didn't be shown in the report. Most of the people were found beside the Supreme shop on Thursday. Others were found in Soho as well.
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2 APPENDICES Online Questionnaire I used Typeform to creast a online servey, the questions are created as teo languages, so it is easy to read for Chinese people.
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I asked all my friends and their friends, also I went to different social medias like Instagram and Weibo, finding people who suits our brand style, then leave commons about ask them to fillin my survey.
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Here are part of the online survey's results that didnt shown in the report.
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3 APPENDICES Are you Northeast Nancy? campaign
We sticked nine posters on the griffiti walls in brick lane. Beside the poster is a notification that tell people who to join the campaign. Before put the poster on the wall, we asked some people who were doing this, and they said because everyone is doing it, so it doesn't matter, but if it is in China, this beavior is never going to happen.
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4 APPENDICES
About the brand's name
The original thought about the brand is inspired by Kanye West’s daughter - North West. Because most of the brands are named after the designer's name, and as a men’s streetwear brand, it is better to thing of a cool name that also related to the designer’s name. If someone called North West, there could be a person called North East, and because the designer was born in Northeast of China. So Northeast could be the first name, and Nancy could be the second name. In conclusion, Northeast Nancy is a human name, it gives people more imagination about who the person is, what does he/she look like and what does he/ her lifestyle is.
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5 APPENDICES
Design inspiration
The inspiration of NortheastNancy A/W18 is the hottest subculture in China at the moment which is the Hip-Hop, rap music. Hip-Hop culture is influencing the fashion industry since the 90s which is the golden time. Because of an online program called ‘The Rap of China’, rap music is no longer an underground culture in China. The inspiration is a rap group ‘Higher Brothers’, they are discovered by a YouTube channel, and many famous rappers were reacted to their music videos, soon they got famous in America. The song that made them famous called ‘Made in China’, this will be the theme of this collection, more specifically, from the lyric ‘she side she didn’t love me, she lied, she all made in China’ develop as a fun screen print slogan on the garment.
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6 APPENDICES
Brand LOGO for female collection
Made in China means mass production in China. The repeating items in the factories are truly inspirational, it could be developed as an idea of repeating a part on clothes., also the detail and shape of the workers’ uniform can be a trimming or finishing idea. For primary research, we are looking at different things in our life which are made in China, then take pictures of the words, and the colourful blocks can be a contemporary pattern. From the deconstructed piece of a suit, there is an idea of making down jacket out of a suit, that staffing part of the fabric, so the three-dimensional volume could be shaped as a word or letters on all over the body. The stereotype when people think of China, they think all the products are fake, and it is a real series issue that in Chinese fashion market. But now so many Chinese designers come abroad to study design, just want to prove that all the ‘made in China’ items could become ‘Designed by Chinese’. Thus, on the washing label of Northeast Nancy’s products, there will be written ‘Design by Chinese’ instead of ‘Made in China’.
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This is the symbol of Northeast Nancy womenswear collection in the future. the eyes of these unicorns are looking at different directions, it also represents the brand name in Chinese. Every item is numbered, it is one of the kind, so we use the unicorns. Our consumers are young people, they all want to be unique and special, so the unicorn are human with horn on their head.
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We manufactured some embroidered patches, it could be decorated on the clothes. When the collection finally drops, they will be given for free to the consumers. After few months, it will be sold as one pound each.
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