16 minute read
Cultivating Coffee Culture
Residents, tourists and students who visit Flagstaff may be familiar with its Historic Downtown area teeming -with storefronts and restaurants. A common sight is coffee shops — 10 of which are located in this area alone.
Longstanding locations, such as Macy’s European Coffee House and Bakery and Late For The Train, have remained in business for decades, while several new coffeehouses have opened in Flagstaff since a boom in 2008.
Since these new coffeehouses opened their doors, they experienced individual developments in the products they serve and how they approach the coffee business.
The Awa Kava Bar is a coffee and kava bar located on the outskirts of downtown Flagstaff. It is located on East Butler Avenue with an outdoor patio, tin walls and free parking.
Inside the bar, a small, fluffy dog named Ashe, an Awa Kava regular, greets the guests. The room is decorated with local artists’ work, and looks similar to the inside of a home Co-owner and Manager Juda Martinez said this design choice was Awa Kava’s intention. Their inspiration for a homey atmosphere came from the birthplace of their other signature drink, kava. Kava is a Polynesian tea derived from a root that helps reduce stress and anxiety.
“Kava is from the Western Pacific Islands,” Martinez said. “They don’t have kava bars out there. You just go to people’s houses and drink kava. So, this is kind of like the house where everybody can come in and enjoy kava. Here, all characters from all walks of life have a space.”
Opened in late 2019, Awa Kava began by only selling kava. However, the previous owners expanded their menu to include coffee to cater better to Flagstaff’s market.
Martinez said he was an employee when this change was introduced. Firecreek Coffee Company was Awa Kava’s first supplier of coffee beans, and a barista from Firecreek trained the Awa Kava employees to make espresso, he said.
In the year since Martinez and his business partner became co-owners, he said they decided to change their coffee provider to be known for a more unique taste. Their new provider is Toucanet Coffee whose owner ethically harvests coffee from sustainable, female-owned farms.
“Each shop in town [that uses Toucanet Coffee] has a different variation of their coffee,” Martinez said. “Three shops can serve Toucanet Coffee, but we’re not all serving the same type of blend.”
Martinez said taking over the Awa Kava Bar came with its fair share of benefits and challenges for the duo. However, in the year since they became owners, they have already begun planning to open a second location, he said.
Although Martinez said there are too many coffee shops in Flagstaff for a second kava bar, he said he does not mind the competition. He said he cares more about the communal atmosphere of Awa Kava than the financial benefits.
“They can do what they want to do, how they want to do it,” Martinez said. “You do you. We’re not here just as a coffee shop but as a community space.”
Coffee shops in Flagstaff have a unique twist on their presentation of products to reach a niche group of coffee drinkers while also appealing to a broader audience.
Forêt Flg is a family-owned cafe that serves coffee, breakfast and lunch. Billy Greenhalgh is the lead barista and has been working at the cafe since before it opened.
The cafe opened in September 2021 and is owned by Greenhalgh’s mother and brother, which she said creates a family vibe. After working as a barista in Phoenix for five years, Greenhalgh joined her mother and brother and helped build the cafe from the ground up.
She said it was an opportunity she could not pass up.
“I knew it would be a part of my life that I would never get back if I didn’t do it,” Greenhalgh said. “I would look back and regret not doing it. I just knew it would be important, and I just sort of felt called to work with them.”
Greenhalgh said most visitors hear about Forêt Flg by word of mouth and almost everyone who comes in sees a familiar face.
As the lead barista, Greenhalgh makes seasonal drinks to keep guests entertained and interested in fresh creations. Their menu is never stagnant, she said, with the seasonal drinks serving as a way for each barista to hone their skills. This creativity is what sets Forêt Flg apart from other companies, Greenhalgh said.
“We like to switch it up and keep people interested,” Greenhalgh said. “We try to make sure there’s a drink for every different type of person. If you don’t want caffeine or you like sweet or bright or floral tones, [we have it]. I try to hit all different kinds of coffee.”
The family at Forêt Flg has plans to expand its menu and hours of operation. Greenhalgh said the cafe will be adding dinner options sometime this year.
The novelty of each coffee shop extends to local coffee roasters as well.
Matador Coffee Roasting Company has two locations in Flagstaff that sell coffee made from its own brand of coffee beans. Matador supplies coffee to various locations around the city, such as Black Bart’s Steakhouse and Mike and Rhonda’s The Place. Mario Martusciello is the founder of Matador Coffee Roasting Company. The first location for the coffee roasters in Flagstaff opened in 2015. He said the company took a different approach to coffee rather than only becoming a shop. At first, Matador was a wholesale storefront providing coffee to other companies. Along with selling coffee beans, Martusciello said they assisted their clients with proper training on making espresso and using equipment to make good coffee.
Martusciello said the company is looking to bridge the gap between smaller coffee shops and large enterprises. Furthermore, he said the key to this is the type of espresso used in their drinks.
“We’re a little different, I think, than the other shops in Flagstaff,” Martusciello said. “You’re going to find a lighter roast of espresso. We have a light and a dark roast. Outwardly and wholesale, the majority of what we sell is the light roast espresso, for sure. In our shop, we chose a dark roast espresso more in league with some of the bigger companies.”
He said due to its main location on Interstate 40, the company provides coffee primarily to tourists who may unknowingly be used to dark roasts.
Martusciello said the coffee scene in Flagstaff is robust, especially with the student population. With the diverse customer base, he said he would like to see the coffee community become more close-knit.
“I would prefer to have us be closer so we could actually build more together,” Martusciello said. “I’ve seen a little bit more of it as the years go on, but I’d like to see more.”
Matador hosts annual softball charity events. Martusciello said he wants other coffee shops in the area to collaborate with them on the venture.
Although Martusciello said there is room for improvement in the bond between each coffee shop, the culture surrounding coffee in Flagstaff is well established.
Due to NAU and its student population, Martinez said it is only natural there are so many coffee shops in Flagstaff. There is a need for caffeine in the city — especially during finals season, he said.
“The coffeehouse vibe has been synonymous with studying since the ‘90s,” Martinez said. “The more students we have, the more spaces are required for social areas. Caffeine is not only addictive, but it’s a mutual thing.”
Coffee in Flagstaff has been interpreted in many ways by shops across town, developing distinguishing traits that cater to specific tastes, not only in how the drink is prepared but in the atmosphere of the shop as well.
Whether students have been at NAU for one semester or four years, there is no one-sizefits-all path for college. Both academic and non-academic experiences impacted students during their time at NAU, and through clubs, classes and jobs on campus, students said they developed new skills and made great connections with their professors and friends. Not all students saw growth in the same way:
“I’ve been [going] to NAU since 2019, so I’ve been through a normal semester, and I was so excited [and] made so many friends,” Tran said. “Then COVID hit. I had to do online school as an international student — because I’m from Vietnam — without being able to go back to my home country. Mentally and emotionally, it’s been like a rollercoaster for me.
“There was so much growth in the way I perceive friendship, both with Americans and international students, but also being independent and living in the United States without my family. Studying for a degree in my second language was also very challenging.
“The past four years have been the craziest growth in my life. I think I would not be who I am today without all the things that NAU brought to me — all the knowledge and all the friendships I’ve made. The way I think about life, about politics and humanity is so different now.
“With the NAU International Club, I learned a lot about organizing events, connecting people from different countries and I developed my leadership skills. And to this day, the International Club is still my favorite.”
“I’ve grown a lot, just in terms of confidence in myself and knowing what I can and can’t accomplish,” Chesley said. “I feel like I’m much more self-aware and know that I can do hard things. When I take a hard class here, I know that I’ll be able to do it, and in high school, I was afraid that I wouldn’t be able to finish college because of how hard it would be. But I think it’s a natural progression once you get to college, and I feel like I’ve done a lot better than I thought I would.
“The professors helped me a lot. They really want the best for you, and they want you to do well. I used to be afraid to go up to my professors when I was a freshman, but I feel like they’re all my friends now because I’ve had them multiple times in my major, and they just really care about me and want me to do my best.
“In the future, I want to own my own bakery and cafe, and I feel like I’ve really been well-equipped with what I’ve learned here to be able to progress my career.”
“I’ve grown in social aspects,” Matsumoto said. “Coming from high school to living on my own for the first time, I’ve had a lot of freedom. I didn’t really know what to expect, but I’m glad with what I’m experiencing right now at NAU.
“First semester, I was in a few classes with some sophomores and juniors, so being in classes with people that have already experienced a few years at NAU helped me a little bit. Asking around, what I can expect from classes and even talking to my professors, was also helpful.
“I see myself pursuing the exercise physiology major, and then, I would like to get a master’s and then even pursue physical therapy.”
Some said they have grown personally, while others made new social connections. COVID-19 also had a huge impact on students’ lives and their relationships. Students with time left at NAU said they are excited to take advantage of opportunities the university offers. Students who are graduating are looking forward to their future careers.
“I’ve grown a fair bit,” Carranza said. “One of the biggest things coming to university was the freedom to choose. But also making friends in a community, I have learned what I like and what my preferences are. Taking Japanese has changed a fair bit since it is such a different language.
“I’m actually studying abroad next year in Japan, and that’s one of the biggest things I’m looking forward to. I’ve been preparing for some time. I’m excited to see how it can change me because that’s a whole different country, and I can’t wait for that experience.
“In International Affairs, I have to also take an internship in Washington, D.C., so it’s going to be a big change, and I can’t wait to grow as a person thanks to NAU.”
“I was a transfer [student] my freshman year, and with COVID, it was really hard to make friends, but NAU really helped me to find my people and my major and my passion,” Hallett said. “It really helped me be the person I am today.
“My job working for [the] student union keeps me connected to the NAU community. I’m able to help fellow students know where they want to go, and I just feel like I’m a part of NAU because I work here.
“I’m a part of Chi Omega, which is a sorority here on campus. That’s been a major part of me, finding a solid group of girls and my roommates and my best friends. In the future, I hope I can just take everything I’ve learned here and turn it into a career and passion.”
“I made a lot of personal connections …,” Morris said. “I also got an internship, so that helps. I’m in a fraternity, so that helped a lot to make a lot of connections and get great leadership skills.
“In the future, I’m hoping to be successful and see where life takes me.
“Before coming to NAU, I had no idea what an internship was. We have a really good construction management program with seminars every Thursday and then a couple career fairs, so that’s how I gained that internship.”
JESSIE MCCANN
EDITOR
When deciding where to eat out in Flagstaff, you can’t go wrong with most places. Downtown Flagstaff alone has just about every cuisine to offer, with many places providing a prime modern dining experience.
Yet what some forget is the downtown food scene wasn’t the only area that propelled Flagstaff to be recognized as the top “foodie” city in the state of Arizona.
The string of restaurants along the Eastside of Route 66 have continued to deliver the classics, with an array of traditional American diners and several highly-rated Mexican restaurants. Among the heavyweight champions, though, is none other than the city’s premier wood-fired pizzeria and Italian kitchen, Fat Olives
Prior to moving to Flagstaff, I always had a love for Italian food, but had little sense of what constitutes truly good Italian cuisine. I considered myself lucky if my family made a trip to The Cheesecake Factory, which in reality, is just a glorified Olive Garden.
Needless to say, my first Fat Olives visit over a year ago changed the game. Little did I know, I was eating at one of Food Network’s listed “Top Places To Eat” and a featured restaurant on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.”
The award-winning Chef John Conley opened Fat Olives as a mobile catering business over 25 years ago. Since then, has made waves in the Flagstaff food industry. Consistently voted the city’s “Best Italian Restaurant” and “Best Overall Restaurant,” the family-owned restaurant has brought a lasting sense of community and dedication to authentic Italian cuisine.
With the couple of visits I have under my belt, Fat Olives has never ceased to amaze me. Each time I step in, I am greeted with a sense of familiarity — friendly service staff accompanied by rustic brick and wood walls. For such high-end quality food, it’s pleasantly surprising that the interior design has such a homey, intimate atmosphere.
Even when visiting on weekdays, there’s rarely a slow day at Fat Olives. You likely won’t be guaranteed a seat upon entrance, but the wait is a small price to pay for the exceptional service. No matter the occupancy, service is fast-paced, which is rare for an upscale restaurant.
The appetizer menu is filled with classic Italian bites including meatballs, burrata and of course, oven-roasted olives. Just about all of the appetizers sound appealing, but the bruschetta boards are an absolute must. The classic bruschetta board — consisting of tomato, red onion, basil, pecorino romano cheese and lemon balsamic vinaigrette on finely-toasted bread — has a blend of savory, sweet and citrus notes, creating a flavorful explosion. It is also one of the most visually stunning dishes I’ve had at Fat Olives overall, as it is clear they have perfected the art of drizzling a vinaigrette.
It is always a personal struggle to decide between pizza or pasta as a main course. At most other pizza places, you won’t find true Neapolitan pizza freshly made from a wood oven. The thin texture with an airy, puffed-up crust makes any pizza delicious. Although a little more on the expensive side, the Kenai Pizza, made of a white base, ricotta, mozzarella, red onions and house-smoked salmon, is one of my favorites.
Fat Olives’ fettuccine alfredo truly puts food chain replicas of the dish to shame from just the house-made sauce alone. The noodles practically melt in your mouth because of the alfredo’s creamy consistency. Several other pasta dishes contain a ragu that is cooked for 10 hours, including the Signature Lasagna, Rigatoni and Spaghetti & Meatballs. I’ve finished the lasagna in one sitting, which is pretty much unheard of for me.
I would normally call it a day after finishing off the portions Fat Olives serves, but the dessert menu is too intriguing to skip out on. If you have a sweet tooth and want to save up the appetite, Smores-ala-Fat Olives, an oven-baked pizza with Colombian chocolate chips and roasted marshmallows, is a great choice. For those with smaller appetites, you won’t regret trying the gelato, with new flavors offered each day, or the chocolate mousse.
As the crown jewel of Italian fine dining in Flagstaff, Fat Olives is the place for special occasions and casual dinners. Every time I go, I’m left wanting to try more of their dishes, wondering what I’ll order the next time I dine in. Of course, nicer quality food means higher prices, but a visit every once in a while is worth it.
Flagstaff music scene challenges the norm
With the number of music-based groups in Flagstaff, there has grown to be a variety of genres and musical backgrounds that reflect local culture. As the city shifts and develops, its music scene does too, not only in size, but in diversity and novelty.
The Interference Series is a local organization that specializes in presenting experimental music performances. Owen Davis and Rob Wallace, the series’ curators, are both musicians and educators. Davis teaches music at Sturgeon Cromer Elementary School, and Wallace is an associate teaching professor at NAU.
Wallace, who was born and raised in Flagstaff, said the town is unique because of its cultural and geographical diversity.
“I have a fairly broad perspective on the Flagstaff cultural scene,” Wallace said. “There’s a lot of positive things that didn’t exist when I was growing up. The Interference Series is one of them.”
The Interference Series emphasizes improvisation and experimentation, placing jazz musicians at the forefront. In March, the series hosted a Primordial Light Show, which celebrated the spring equinox through light displays and world instruments. The event, held at Flagstaff Arts and Leadership Academy, featured improvised music on singing bowls and string instruments.
Wallace said a highlight of the Interference Series is the mix of musicians who have come together through live performances.
“I strive to bring local folks from a variety of backgrounds into contact with visiting artists from a variety of backgrounds to create a space for mutual exploration,” Wallace said.
While the Interference Series is unique in the kinds of music it promotes, it is not the only group that supports live music in Flagstaff.
Sierra Bryan is a Flagstaff indie-rock musician who was a finalist for the Emerging Artist Viola Award in 2021. Bryan is the co-founder of Mountain Town Sounds, a nonprofit organization dedicated to uplifting local singersongwriters.
“Mountain Town Sounds was made for Flagstaff to create a community between musicians, to make songwriters feel valued and to help provide opportunities and resources,” Bryan said.
Since its creation in 2022, Mountain Town Sounds has held singer-songwriter socials, in which artists converse and share their work. The group also hosts FLG Listening Rooms, a series of small, intimate concerts which are recorded and posted on the Mountain Town Sounds YouTube channel.
These events have laid the groundwork for Mountain Town Sounds to expand to larger projects. On April 15, the organization hosted its first music festival in downtown Flagstaff, Femme Fest. This all-day event was intended to support women and non-binary artists in the music scene.
“The goal of Femme Fest for me is just for other musicians to feel celebrated and seen,” Bryan said. “I didn’t want this event to be centered around exclusively celebrating cis-gendered women. That’s why we landed on the term ‘femme.’ We have some artists that are gender fluid, in which ‘femme’ applies to them.”
Bryan said she was inspired to put together the festival after touring with the musician Red McAdam in March. After 26 days on the road, she had made connections with several female musicians across the country.
“As a femme musician as well, it was very encouraging for me to see so many other women pursuing music seriously in other states and giving themselves the power to put themselves out there,” Bryan said.
The festival featured Arizona-based artists such as Phoenix pop-rock band Diva Bleach, Williams folk singer Jess Ledbetter and Flagstaff indie duo Sleep Stampede. Performances were held at different downtown locations, including The Hive, Mountain Top Tap Room, Flagstaff Brewing Company and Late for the Train.
The growth of the Flagstaff music scene is evident, not only in downtown but also on NAU’s campus. Sophomores David Beley, Kendall Callison and Andy Campbell formed their band, The Home Owner’s Association, in 2022.
Beley, the band’s drummer, said The Home Owner’s Association has a relaxed attitude about their work.
“It’s not to be taken too seriously,” Beley said. “We do this because it’s just all around a fun and fulfilling time, especially when you get people dancing and being thrown around to what you are playing.”
As the band is still in its beginning stages, Beley said their Flagstaff basis has been a large part of their development.
“It started with us meeting last year and playing together in the dorms,” Beley said. “I feel Flagstaff has a really good set of people that are going to every show the band has. There’s such a good scene for live music, especially now that The Hive is up and running.”
The Home Owner’s Association performed at The Hive in December as part of the NAU Fashion Club’s runway show.
The band also performed at NAU Skate Club’s “Jam Sesh at the Fieldhouse,” an open skateboarding event on March 25 where students practiced skate tricks while listening to local bands. Campbell, who plays bass, said it is important that campus organizations host these events.
“There are so many great student groups like Fashion Club, Skate Club and KJACK Radio that have allowed a really cool diverse university subculture to develop that I hope continues to grow,” Campbell said.
Campbell said he credits the development of NAU’s music culture to the students.
“The NAU student body is a very accepting, creative and fun-loving group of people that really make it possible for people like us to share our love for music with others,” Campbell said.
Flagstaff’s unique culture will continue to be highlighted by its diverse local music scene.