Maple + Batter

The most important meal of the day just got a whole lot more fun.

By Geri Dietz

When the Original Pancake House, a Bay Harbor fixture for over 20 years, closed its doors for good due to the pandemic’s impact on its business, a group of like-minded family and friends stepped into the space to execute their vision of a new breakfast and brunch-style eatery.

But how did this crew of seven pull off a relatively seamless transition, in just 6 sixmonths, for a successful July 2021 opening? Well, first, you have to know the Morrison’s.

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Twins Philip and Bryant Morrison and their respective wives, Laura and Jamie, bring with them a broad skillset: The twins are trained in finance, risk management, and accounting; Laura’s expertise is in event planning and social media; Jamie is a restaurant guru and photographer.

The foursome was joined in the venture by the twins’ father, Scot Morrison, who, with family friend Greg Ruvolo, provides back office support. Another friend, Thomas Bayer, from a family who spent decades in the restaurant business, helped set up the kitchen and is in charge of kitchen operations.

“Being family and such close friends, we had the ability and comfort to jump right in [and] share our strengths, so that we could individually and collectively bring our skill sets together,” Phillip Morrison tells Northern Express.

The result of this family-and-friends effort is an eatery that boasts the energetic buzz of a sophisticated urban pop-up but is grounded with the expert-driven long-range planning suitable to a venture that’s meant to last. Simply put: Maple + Batter is here for the duration.

The team was aided in its transition by waitstaff from the Original Pancake House. “We couldn’t have done it without them,” brother Bryant Morrison adds. “They were instrumental in helping us open as successfully as we did.” A LOOK INSIDE

Batter + Maple occupies a rounded end space in the very distinctive Bay Harbor village. The restaurant’s focal point, a circular wall featuring a massive half-moon of double-hung windows, is fronted by an attached four-seaon porch that allows in plenty of natural light. The eye is drawn to the massive exposed ductwork and black wicker pendants above, and then below, to the reflective glow of the simulated marble floor (the result of an arduous fivestep process that transformed the Pancake House’s classic red tiles into something far more chic.)

Handcrafted butcher block tables, generously spaced, and modern armchairs, padded for comfort, fill the dining area. (No small feat, that; the porch and dining room together can accommodate 100+ patrons.) Substantial support beams, wrapped in faux boxwood greenery, add texture and warmth to the space. For winter, lighted faux pines of various heights provide a seasonal backdrop. Beyond, the open galley-style kitchen hums with activity but does not disturb the ambience. “We wanted a simple, modern look with a lively, inviting vibe,” Phillip says.

MORNING GLORY

Head chef Aaron Finner is committed to making Maple+ Batter “the best brunch spot around.” His first step: Use the best available ingredients, sourced locally whenever possible. Plath’s, Grain Train, Bill’s Farm Market, and Bear Creek Organic Farm typically rule the menu, but goods from other farm and markets around the region appear each season.

Finner’s second step: Keep the classics and fan favorites always expertly prepared — and then brainstorm with staff to develop interesting, and flavorful, items to keep guests surprised and delighted. Because if breakfast is the most important meal of the day, then brunch should be the most fun. To put a new twist on a classic dish, for example: Finner’s Bay Harbor Benedict adds roasted tomatoes to the traditional recipe, while a side of sweet potato maple hash, with onion, red pepper, and choice of meat, elevates expectations.

Griddle choices, all based on the eatery’s official (and delectable) maple batter recipe, include pancakes, French toast, and waffles. The flapjacks, their crispy edges rimming the circumference of a dinner plate and yielding to a tender center, round out the griddle selections. Enjoy them all with real maple syrup, fresh berries, candied pecans, or chocolate. (Or mix and match.)

All baked goods are fresh daily. Try the signature maple bacon muffin with a brown sugar crumble top. Grab it to go with a cup of freshly ground coffee from Leelanau Coffee Company. Or add an egg to punch up the carb/protein ratio. For quiche aficionados, the mushroom truffle quiche, wrapped in its own crust, combines creamy eggs and melted Gruyere with a wild mushroom mix, blades of fresh rosemary, and a finish of truffle oil.

After 11 a.m., choose smash burgers (beef sourced from Halperns’ in Kalamazoo), served with the works; a BLTC (the “C” stands for cheddar); or a roasted beet and feta salad with a nicely balanced vinaigrette. Weekly specials have included lemon ricotta pancakes, brie omelette, pulled pork Benedict, or a ham and Swiss on French toast with warm maple syrup for dipping. All this, plus plenty of sides and add-ons, make choosing difficult. It’s probably best to visit regularly.

FROM THE BAR

Start with a thoughtfully curated list of brunch-style bar offerings: Try a screwdriver or Bloody Mary made with Gypsy vodka from Petoskey’s High Five Spirits; the Bloody Mary mix comes from Mammoth Distillery, a next-door Bay Harbor neighbor. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, rosé, and a cab, along with a champagne and a sparkling rose comprise the wine list. (Special events feature for-the-occasion cocktails.) Bailey’s is on hand to accompany fresh coffee. (Select beers might be a future addition to the list.)

Find Maple + Batter at 4165 Main St., Bay Harbor. (231) 753-2122, www. mapleandbatter.com