14 minute read
Restaurant Roundup
Please be seated for these abbreviated versions of the restaurant profiles we’ve featured since our last RestauranTour issue. Bon Appetit!
HOPSCOTCH BRICK OVEN The bar features 12 rotating taps, the & TAPROOM two mainstays of which are the iconic
Brothers Matt and Motorboater, made exclusively for the Davies Mark Davies, longtime restaurant group by Right Brain Brewery northwest Michigan in Traverse City, and Hopscotch Ale, from restaurateurs with four Short’s Brewing Company in Bellaire but it other establishments in the also stocks an impressive selection of fine region, opened Hopscotch scotch whiskeys, and its bartenders are often in 2017 on the east side rolling out new cocktails. of Traverse City, in the former location of Find Hopscotch Brick Oven and Taproom Mr. Bill’s Shirt Co., next to the now-defunct at 2032 U.S. 31 North in Traverse City; it also Pebble Brook miniature golf park has direct access from the TART (Traverse
When Matt and Mark bought it, it was all City Recreational Trail). (231) 252-4718, linoleum floors and pegboard walls — just www.hopscotchbrickovenmi.com an open retail space. But it had something specific they wanted: enough room out back that would allow them to put in a beer garden. CROW’S NEST
Today, that garden is a major draw for The Crow’s Nest Hopscotch guests. Pea gravel and flagstone Restaurant & Catering walkways define the well laid out seating in Harbor Springs is a area, which is surrounded by a tall wooden 60-year-old Northern fence that provides privacy and wind Michigan mainstay that protection. Expansive sails overhead give eschews the tourist-driven shelter from the sun and the occasional brief approach and embraces shower. And two fire pits provide warmth the wants and needs of its and coziness on cooler summer and early regulars, most of whom are area residents. fall evenings. The result is an eclectic menu of high
This winter, the brothers plan to put quality food that belies its rather humble in three greenhouse-like polycarbonate surroundings. Though its food is more akin structures — a little more structural than the to haute cuisine, the restaurant itself has a popular igloos they’ve used previously, plus traditional Northern Michigan lodge feel. easier to heat and transparent, so guests will Lacquered knotty pine warms the Crow’s be able to see the snow falling and feel like Nest’s interior, which is illuminated by large they’re outside. windows that provide views of the verdant
On the Menu: Brick oven pizzas are grounds. Outside, a small, adjoining patio hands-down the most popular items on dining space overlooks a large vegetable and the Hopscotch menu, and several specialty herb garden where owners Bob and Ann versions are offered, including the East Bay Vala cull some of their fare. (red sauce, pepperoni, and sliced sausage, with The Valas took over in 1997 as the cremini, shiitake and oyster mushrooms) and restaurant’s fourth owners. “I put my own the Gyro (shaved beef and lamb, red onion, spin on things when we started,” the 58-yeargarlic oil, tomato, and tzatziki sauce), as well old Vala said. “We had been doing about as build-your-own options from a long list of 1,200 meals a day at Stafford’s Pier, so the possible ingredients. pace here was very different. But, I brought
Among meat lovers, the smoked brisket some ideas that I had there and we took entrées rule. Purists love the slow-roasted [The Crow’s Nest] menu to the next level.” version (smothered in bourbon BBQ sauce), On the Menu: The Mediterranean-style and those who find it hard to choose just one Pasta Putanesca ($22) offers great value type of meat opt for the Smoke House Plate with a colorful, hearty portion that is alive (brisket, baby back ribs and pulled pork, with with fresh flavors. Tart artichoke hearts, traditional or Carolina sauce). In the small tomatoes, capers, garlic, and Nicoise olives plates category, the Summer Shrimp (chilled embrace tender linguine and succulent jumbo shrimp with lemon, garlic and red shrimp in a delightful quagmire. pepper flakes), Pulled Pork Nachos (with Another hefty plate bears the Northern cilantro sour cream and poblano coulis), and Fried Chicken ($17), half a chicken’s parts Baked Raclette (Leelanau Cheese raclette expertly deep-fried, juicy and packed with with potatoes, gherkins and toast points) take flavor. Loaded mashed potatoes and corn top billing, while with the piadinas — Italian pudding — both tops in their field — offer flatbreads served like quesadillas — it’s the sweet and savory bookends to the tastilyCubano (Chihuahua cheese, bacon, smoked breaded yard bird. pulled pork, dill pickle, and yellow mustard). The Yellow Lake Perch entree ($32) is
Tops picks in sandwiches — all served on this eatery’s signature dish. However, the toasted ciabatta — include the Lobster Roll menu contains some other classic entrees (lobster meat, chives, and light mayo, with like Liver & Onions ($16), Steak Ann ($35), melted cheese and drawn butter), and the and Great Lakes Whitefish ($23) — and Smoked Turkey Breast (with bacon relish, some not so traditional, like Bangkok Stir avocado, tomato and mayo). Fry ($23) and Walleye Morel ($28). 18 • sept 21, 2020 • Northern Express Weekly
Because Crow’s Nest sources food locally as much as possible, Michigan’s prized and hunted fungi also appear on the eatery’s most sought-after appetizer, its Morel Bruschetta ($14). Other appetizers include Truffle Fries ($7.95), Calamari ($11), Fried Pickle Chips ($8), Escargot ($14), and BBQ Ribs ($14). The Crow’s Nest also sells a few sandwiches, as well as a variety of pizzas featuring homemade dough. The restaurant has an ample bar with regular beer, wine, and liquor offerings.
The Crow’s Nest Restaurant & Catering is a family dining establishment. Find it at 4601 N. State Rd. (231) 526-6011, www.crowsnestharborsprings.com
LYLAH’S
Cynthia Henderson might not have a knack for timing, but she more than makes up for it with her food. Conisder: She opened the first Lylah’s in Lake Leelanau in January 2019. Last winter, she moved the popular sandwich shop to Suttons Bay. The new Lylah’s was open for only two weeks — two very successful weeks at that — and then … ? The pandemic hit.
Henderson closed down right away and stayed closed for a month. “When we reopened, for takeout only, there was definitely an initial drop in sales,” she said, “but since then we have been getting a lot of support from the locals, and visitors are discovering us, too.”
On the Menu: Fresh and homemade are key words for Lylah’s. Tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce are sourced from TLC and other local farms, and most of what can’t be sourced nearby comes from other Michigan growers and producers. Vegetables and salads are prepped fresh daily, and all sauces, spreads and dressings are made in house, Henderson noted, calling herself the “condiment queen.”
And she demands the same quality in the meats she serves. “We make our own pulled pork, slow-roasting it for about 12 hours,” she said. “We also bake our own chicken breasts and roast our own turkey and top round beef. The only meat that we don’t cook here is ham.”
Henderson has always been intrigued by the “endless possibilities” that sandwiches offer, and her made-to-order creations, piled high with toppings and sauce, are definitely the main attraction at Lylah’s. Top sellers include the Gouda-nuff Turkey sandwich (house-roasted and chopped turkey breast tossed with garlic-herb mayo and topped with smoked Gouda cheese, cucumber slices, lettuce and tomato on toasted sourdough bread), the Jalapeño Mouth (ham, bacon, cheddar, house-candied jalapeños, Dijon mustard and tomato on a toasted onion bun), Horsin’ Around (hand-sliced roast beef, house-pickled onions, horseradish cheese, lettuce, tomato and herb mayo on sourdough bread), and Oh What A Year Oh! (rotisserie lamb or chicken, lettuce, tomato, red onion, feta cheese and house-made tzatziki on warm pita bread).
Three different soups are featured daily, with the Turkey Noodle making repeat appearances and selling out quickly every time. A newcomer among the three salads on the menu — all made fresh to order and served with dressing on the side — is the Clubbin’ (turkey, ham, bacon, provolone, pepperoncini, red onion, cucumber and tomato over mixed greens, with herb vinaigrette). And for your sweet tooth, Lylah’s offers an ever-changing selection of homemade cheesecakes, pies, brownies, cookies, and more.
Lylah’s is located at 99 W. 4th St bin Suttons Bay (in the same plaza as Hansen Foods.) (231) 866-4081, Lylahs.square.site
SMALL BATCH AT THE CUPOLA
With a little nudge from a good friend, newly retired Lauretta Reiss — whose degree in design from Michigan State University led to a highpowered, international career as a footwear designer — opened a bakery, Small Batch Local, in downtown Harbor Springs in 2014.
Less than a year later, the owner of The Cupola, a well-known Harbor Springs dining destination for 30 years, approached Reiss about taking over that space to open a breakfast and lunch restaurant, and Small Batch at the Cupola was born.
The interior of Small Batch showcases Reiss’s extensive collection of art, cookbooks, and vintage furniture, making patrons feel as if they are dining in a private home. Soft, ’40s-style music plays in the background.
“I wanted to create a compelling, exciting, interesting dining experience,” she said. “You’re dining not only with art surrounding you but also with art on your plate. There’s an artistry in what we do.
On the Menu: Put it this way, said Reiss: “I won’t put anything on my menu unless I’ve done it 100 times — I perfect it and change it until it’s right. And we still tweak things all the time if we feel they can be better yet.”
That includes her version of eggs Benedict, Benedict’s Garden, which uses
Florentine sauce rather than Hollandaise sauce, and poached eggs served over grilled rosemary ham and mixed roasted vegetables. The Rise and Shine breakfast sandwich has caramelized onions, aged cheddar, tarragon-herbed eggs and sriracha aioli on grilled brioche.”
Other popular breakfast features include the Heavenly (lemon ricotta pancakes with fresh blueberries and lemon zest glaze), Cali Dreaming (avocado mash, pickled red onions, tomatoes, cheddar, and two sunny-side-up eggs on grilled ciabatta), and Gravy Train (a grilled golden biscuit topped with crispy fried chicken, sausage gravy and two fried eggs), as well as daily specials, often some version of a quiche. The dinner menu is nothing if not diverse, with bold flavors and choices ranging from the Holy Smoke (St. Louis ribs slathered in house BBQ sauce) to the Winner Winner Chicken Dinner (crispy chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, corn, slaw, and a biscuit), and the Don Chipotle (a porkbelly BLT with fried green tomato and chipotle aioli. From time to time, Reiss also offers Filipino classics like pancit (a noodle dish) or Mexican fare that she came to love while living in Los Angeles, as well as things like a recent seafood boil (with crawfish, mussels, crab, shrimp, andouille sausage corn and potatoes).
The Small Batch at the Cupola restaurant, also home to Small Batch Local bakery and catering, is located at 340 State St. in Harbor Springs. (231) 242-4686, www.smallbatchhs.com
OPA! GRILL & TAPROOM
Owner Paul Barbas and his family moved to Traverse City from the Detroit area in the early 2000s, only to discover Mediterranean fare wasn’t on the menu Up North. For the 100-percent Greek Barbas, the culinary hole was a surprise … and an opportunity.
In 2007, Opa! was born, focusing on classic Greek recipes — with a few Polish dishes in homage to Barbas’ wife, whose family hails from Poland.
Now, 13 years later — and in a new standalone location at Grand Traverse Crossing, across from the Grand Traverse Mall — Opa! and the family’s Greek and Polish traditions are still going strong indoors and out. (Under a large tent in the parking lot, Opa! offers high-top tables, all properly distanced, giving guests the option of outdoor dining or eating in the restaurant. Guests also can preorder online or via phone and get meals delivered to their assigned table in the tent.)
On the Menu: Whether you’re choosing take-out or an in-person dining experience, Opa’s menu won’t disappoint. With flavorful Mediterranean dishes alongside comfort foods, Coney dogs, and hearty salads, there’s something for nearly all palates. And with “Taproom” now part of the name, more than 50 beer selections stand ready to complement your meal.
For those looking to explore a bit more, Barbas recommends the Greek Moussaka (eggplant, potato, ground sirloin, tomato, red wine, and béchamel) and the Greek Kisses. Love Polish food? Barbas reports a lot of customers come in specifically seeking Opa! pierogi.
“I judge a restaurant by their appetizers,” he says of the latter, which are on the starter side of the menu. “We take a wonton and fill it with three different cheeses, flash fry it, and finish it off with a balsamic drizzle.” Also a must: Opa! Saganaki, melted Greek cheese flamed tableside; The Duo, falafel; and tzatziki served with grilled pita triangles; and — surprise! — Chilean mussels, steamed in white wine, garlic, fennel, and butter.
Opa! Grill & Taproom is open 8am–9pm daily. Find it at 2658 Crossing Circle in Traverse City. (231) 947-6721, www.opagrill.com
BENZONIA’S HILL TOP SODA SHOPPE
I scream, you scream — most of it directed at the road construction on US-31 in Benzonia — but despite the difficulties posed by the orange barrels and plumes of dust outside, Hill Top Soda Shoppe is drawing lines of customers.
It turns out husband-wife owners Victoria and Chris Mekas had some foresight, both in terms of business choices and, in particular renovation project they took on at Hill Top, which Victoria opened in 2005. The couple remodeled two years ago, expanding from 140 square feet to 600 — “We needed more room to make ice cream,” said Chris — and fortuitiously, ] also installed a drive-thru.
When the pandemic hit, they leaned hard on that particular addition in to serve their popular ice cream, coffee, and fresh donuts to their loyal customers who couldn’t or chose not to come inside.
On the Menu: When the couple initially decided to open an ice cream shop, they decided to do it right; they started by enrolling in ice cream school in North Carolina.
They quickly learned that to make the best ice cream, to stand out among countless other ice cream shops in a summer tourism region, they needed to start with the best ingredients.
“Since day one we’ve used Country Dairy in New Era [Michigan]. It’s a high-end dairy,” Victoria said, noting that it’s not only rBST-free but also exceptionally creamy, thanks to a content of 16 percent butterfat.
Add to that cow-not-chemicallyengineered goodness: all of Hill Top’s ice cream is sweetened with real sugar, not corn syrup. Most flavors are gluten-free, and they use local ingredients whenever they can.
“There’s something about local strawberries. We use Grossnickle strawberries only,” she said, referring to Grossnickle Farms in nearby Kaleva. “We have a freezer full of strawberries. We usually run out in spring,” just shy of the summer harvest. Also au natural: “Our sorbets are from fresh fruit, sugar, and lemon and lime juice, too.”
Among Hill Top’s unique ice cream flavors are Benzie Berry Blast (with those in-demand strawberries); Pear and Port Wine Sorbet; and special school flavors like Husky Puff Supreme, chock full of cherries and cheesecake; Buckley Bear, a coffee ice cream with sugar cookies and a chocolate swirl; and the Mekas’ twist on Neopolitan, in which mint chocolate chip replaces strawberry.
The reaction from customers is what keeps them — and, you might say, Victoria, coming back. “When people say … it’s the best ever,” she said, “that gives you a lot of pride.”
Find Hill Top Soda Shoppe, open 11am to 9pm daily at 7117 South St., in Benzonia. (231) 882-9697, www.Hill Topsodeshoppe.com
