Urban development in Finnmark by Northern Findings

Urban development in Finnmark

With this assignment, I want to investigate how the settlements in Finnmark have developed. When and why they first came to be, and how the structure of the place have changed and grown (or shrunk) since it came to be.

Mette Kleppe

Placement of cities The 12 biggest cities/ settlements in Finnmark These are the twelve biggest cities/ settlements in Finnmark, all with more than 1000 inhabitants. 72% of Finnmark’s population is living in cities or settlements with more than 200 people. Only six places in Finnmark are considered cities; Alta, Hammerfest, Honningsvåg, Kirkenes, Vardø and Vadsø

HAVØYSUND

HONNINGSVÅG BERLEVÅG

RYPEFJORD

HAMMERFEST

BÅTSFJORD KJØLLEFJORD VARDØ

ALTA

VADSØ

LAKSELV

KIRKENES HESSENG

BJØRNEVATN

KARASJOK

KAUTOKEINO

Population in cities Population in the 12 biggest cities/ settlements These are the twelve biggest cities/ settlements in Finnmark, all with more than 1000 inhabitants. 72% of Finnmark’s population is living in cities or settlements with more than 200 people. Only six places in Finnmark are considered cities; Alta, Hammerfest, Honningsvåg, Kirkenes, Vardø and Vadsø

HAVØYSUND 1145 1,5%

HONNINGSVÅG 2565 3,4%

HAMMERFEST RYPEFJORD 6670 1747 9% 2,3%

ALTA 12 000 16%

BERLEVÅG 1105 1,5% BÅTSFJORD 2262 3%

KJØLLEFJORD 1018 1,4%

VARDØ 2099 2,8% VADSØ 5156 7%

LAKSELV 2160 2,9%

HESSENG 1544 2% KARASJOK 1926 2,6%

KIRKENES 3299 4,4% BJØRNEVATN 2373 3,2%

KAUTOKEINO 1338 1,8%

CITY POPULATION PERCENTAGE OF FINNMARK’S POPULATION 0

Livelihoods Livelihoods in the biggest cities/ settlements The municipalities give information on what the livelihoods in their municipalities are. Here is a short overivew telling what they themselves name as their most important livelihoods.

HAVØYSUND

HONNINGSVÅG BERLEVÅG

RYPEFJORD

HAMMERFEST

BÅTSFJORD KJØLLEFJORD VARDØ

ALTA

VADSØ

LAKSELV

KIRKENES HESSENG

BJØRNEVATN

KARASJOK

KAUTOKEINO

- www.hammerfest.kommune.no - www.alta.kommune.no - www.masoy.kommune.no - www.kautokeino.kommune.no - www.karasjok.kommune.no - www.porsanger.kommune.no - www.lebesby.kommune.no - www.nordkapp.kommune.no - www.berlevag.kommune.no - www.batsfjord.kommune.no - www.vardo.kommune.no - www.sor-varanger.kommune.no

Fishing Mechanical professions Mining Trade Agriculture 0

Energy Oil and gas Administration Reindeer herding Military Culture/ tourism 50

Moving borders New and changing borders in the north The Scandinavians had most likely none or few permanent settlements in the Finnmark before the 1200’s when the Hanseatic gave good prices for fish. Before this time the Sami people occupied the northern regions. The Karelies moved towards Finnmark in the same period, starting a conflict that lasted for several centuries, peaking in the 1300-1400’s. The Sami population experienced pressured from all surrouding countries as Sweden also claimed the land. Instead of making fixed borders between countries, tax borders were set, leading to high taxes for the Sami population. The borders towards Sweden and Finland was set in 1751 and to Russia in 1826, leaving the Sami population divided in four countries; Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. - Bruk av land og vann i Finnmark i historisk perspektiv, Justis- og politidepartementet, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008010400024 - Finmarkens politiske historie: aktmæssig fremstillet, Oscar Albert Johnsen, 1923, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2011042706045 - Kautokeino og Kautokeino-lappene: en historisk og ergologisk regionalstudie, P.L. Smith, 1938, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2007011000003

Sápmi 8

1020 Norway’s and Sweden’s first border between Göta älv and Härjedalen

1323 Border between Sweden-Finland and Russia

1645 Finland’s border is set up to Ishavet

1660 Norway looses land to Sweden

1751 Borders between Norway and Sweden-Finland are set

1809 Swedens loses Finland to Russia

1826 Borders to Russia is set

1920 Finland is independent

1944 Finland loses landareas to Russia

Sámi atlas : geográfalaš ja historjjálaš kárttat, Hans Ragnar Mathisen, 1996, http:// urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008080800087

Coastal settlements 1800’s

Moving settlements 1700’s

Siida borders and settlements 1600’s

not start in organized form before 1600’s. The Sami then moved between the sea and 60 - 70 km inland. Their territories were divided in Siidas, a system or social order were groups joined together to make a bigger unit, were the settlements changes due to moving of resources.

- Bruk av land og vann i Finnmark i historisk perspektiv : bakgrunnsmateriale for Samerettsutvalget ; avgitt til Justis- og politidepartementet desember 1994, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008010400024 - http://snl.no/samenes_historie

Sami settlements and movements In the past, it has been common to divide the Sami population in four groups; the Sea Sami, River- and lake Sami, Forest Sami and Mountain Sami. The livelihoods has mainly been combined fishing, livestock and gathering. Reindeer herding has also been important, but did

Siida borders 1694

The coastal Sami population, late 1800’s

Bruk av land og vann i Finnmark i historisk perspektiv : bakgrunnsmateriale for Samerettsutvalget ; avgitt til Justis- og politidepartementet desember 1994, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008010400024

Sjøsamene i Finnmark, NOU 2008:5, Retten til fiske i havet utenfor Finnmark, http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/ dep/fkd/dok/nouer/2008/nou-2008-5/7.html?id=499999

Siida borders 1989

Reindeer herders settlements and movements, 1700’s

Sámi atlas : geográfalaš ja historjjálaš kárttat, Hans Ragnar Mathisen, 1996, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:nonb_digibok_2008080800087

Norwegian settlements

Norwegian churches

Norwegian colonization of Finnmark Norwegians colonized the coastline of Finnmark when prices of fish went up. During the crisis of the fishery industry in the 1600’s the emigrated, but came back again to colonize the whole of Finnmark in 1800’s. Today the majority of the population is Norwegian, although it is no longer a clear distinction between Samiis and Norwegians.

- Bruk av land og vann i Finnmark i historisk perspektiv, Justis- og politidepartementet, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008010400024 - Finmarkens politiske historie: aktmæssig fremstillet, Oscar Albert Johnsen, 1923, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2011042706045 - Kautokeino og Kautokeino-lappene: en historisk og ergologisk regionalstudie, P.L. Smith, 1938, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2007011000003

Norwegian settlements 1567

Norwegian settlements 1520 - 1694

Norwegian settlements 1600 - 1620

Trade centers 1500’s

Churches 1589

Norwegian, Swedish and Russian churces 15- 1700’s

Sámi atlas : geográfalaš ja historjjálaš kárttat, Hans Ragnar Mathisen, 1996, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:nonb_digibok_2008080800087

BORSELV SKIBOTN

VARDØ

ALTA NEIDEN

ENARE

Kvensk immigration and routes The immigration of Finns to the north of Norway most likely started in the 1700’s, and it is believed that hunger and need started the first wave of immigrants, but also other factors made a difference. The majority of the immigration went to Skibotn, Alta og Bugøyfjord i Varanger. Their main livelihoods were agriculture and fishing.

KITTALÄ

SODANKYLÄ

The second wave of immigrating Finns came in the 1830’s. This time it was mainly the prospects of work that attracted them. In 1875 the Finns made up 25 % of the total population in Finnmark. The Finns grouped together, especially in Alta and Vadsø. Assimilation of the Finns started in the second half of 1800’s, and the language was strongly reduces.

TORNEÅ

- Oppbrudd og tilpasning: den finske flyttingen til Vadsø 1845 – 1885, Einar Niemi, 1977, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2012092608163 - http://snl.no/kvener - Vandrere i grenseland, Hans Kr. Eriksen, 1973, http://urn.nb.no/ URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2007071901047

Aschehougs «Norges historie – Bind 6» http://195.159.218.27/nyenordmenn/nettus- Norsk historisk leksikon, 2.opplag, 3.utgave, 2004, Opphavsperson: Lars Ivar Hansen Norsk historisk leksikon, 2.opplag, 3.utgave, 2004, Opphavsperson: Lars Ivar Hansen tillinger/NF_ML/4/kvener/index.htm og Einar Niemi, http://lokalhistoriewiki.no/index.php/Fil:04a2.png og Einar Niemi, http://lokalhistoriewiki.no/index.php/Fil:04a2.png

Nasjonen bygges : 1830-1870, Anne-Lise Seip, 1997, s86, http://urn.nb.no/ URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008082000018

Oppbrudd og tilpasning: den finske flyttingen til Vadsø 1845 – 1885, Einar Niemi, 1977, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2012092608163

Vandrere i grenseland, Hans Kr. Eriksen, 1973, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:nonb_digibok_2007071901047

Phase 1 - claimed rights to tax Sapmi

Norway

Sweden

Russia

Phase 2 - building administration and churches

Phase 3 - permanent borders Norway

Sweden

Finland

Common tax areas Dividing land in Finnmark Divsion of the land in the north was a long process started in the middleages and lasted for centuries. First the surrounding countries demanded the right to tax the Sami population. Later the countries started to clainm land by building administration, churches and monasteries. Eventually the countries claimed authority of the land and permanent borders were set.

- Finmarkens politiske historie: aktmĂŚssig fremstillet, Oscar Albert Johnsen, 1923, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2011042706045 - Kautokeino og Kautokeino-lappene: en historisk og ergologisk regionalstudie, P.L. Smith, 1938, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2007011000003 - Bruk av land og vann i Finnmark i historisk perspektiv, Justis- og politidepartementet, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2008010400024

Russia

Shared land 1500’s

Shared land 1600’s

Sámi atlas : geográfalaš ja historjjálaš kárttat, Hans Ragnar Mathisen, 1996, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:nonb_digibok_2008080800087

Norwegian, Swedish and Russian churces 15- 1700’s

Emner fra Finnmarks historie: lokalhistoriske emner i historiefag ved Vadsø gymnas, Gunnar Niska, 1973, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:no-nb_digibok_2012051008066

Sámi atlas : geográfalaš ja historjjálaš kárttat, Hans Ragnar Mathisen, 1996, http://urn.nb.no/URN:NBN:nonb_digibok_2008080800087

4500 1550

Livelihoods in Finnmark From small settlements to bigger cities The Sami used the land for fishing, livestock, reindeer herding, gathering and hunting. High prices for fish made trade an important source of income and combined use was not as necessary. The fishing drew the Norwegians north long the coast in the 1200â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, followed by Russian, Swedish and Finnish immigration. Fishing at-

tracted immigrants to the area, which traditionally had been used for a combination of activities by the Samis. Today the people of Finnmark has the same diversity in income as any. Reindeer herding is the traditionally viewed occupation for the Sami population, although this is not the case.

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Four cities A closer look at Hammerfest, VadsĂ¸, Kirkenes and Kautokeino

HAVØYSUND

HONNINGSVÅG BERLEVÅG

RYPEFJORD

HAMMERFEST

BÅTSFJORD KJØLLEFJORD VARDØ

ALTA

VADSØ

LAKSELV

KIRKENES HESSENG

BJØRNEVATN

KARASJOK

KAUTOKEINO

km 21

Hammerfest Place to anchor Hammerfest got its state as city in 1789, but had long before been a fishing settlement. Hammerfest was one of the best ice-free harbours in the north, and was for that reason an important harbour. The city modernized after the big fire in 1890, leaving it the first city in Europe with electric streetlights. After bombing and burning in WWII, a chapel was the only building still standing when the war ended. The Findus factory had its peak in the 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with 1200 employees. The factory later moved its location to Rypefjord, and the municipality built the culture house on the former plot in 2009. Hammerfest is a wealthy municipality, much thanks to Statoil and their LNG plant that opened in 2007. http://snl.no/Hammerfest

500 m

5km

Kirkenes Headland with church Kirkenes was a chosen site for a church in 1862, until then only a few houses had been standing here. An important turning point for Kirkenes was opening of the mine in 1906. Fishing was the main source of income up to the 1930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, when industry became the main employer in Kirkenes. The Germans stationed here during WWII, leaving it one of the most bombed cities in Europe. Kirkenes is a border city, hosting industries like Sydvaranger mine and Kimek. http://snl.no/S%C3%B8r-Varanger

500 m

5km

Vadsø Island with drinking water The first tracks of Vadsø started in Vadsøya in form of a fishing settlement in the 1500’s. During the 1600’s people moved to the mainland, and took their church with them. The city grew rapidly in the 1800’s, as it was an important centre for the Pomor trade. It got state as city in 1833. Many immigrants from Sweden-Finland settled in Vadsø, in the 1860’s the majority of the population was Finnish. The city was bombed and burned at the end of WWII, but 1/3 of the houses were still standing after the war. Fishing has traditionally been the main source of income in Vadsø, but today it is head quarter for the country administration. http://snl.no/Vadsø

500 m

5km

Kautokeino Guovdageaidnu - midway There was no permanent settlements in Kautokeino until the 1700’s. Up until this time, nomadic people settled the Finnmark plateau. The population has been increasing up to the 90’s, especially fast between 1935 and 1970, but is now declining. Kautokeino is the biggest municipality in Norway of size, and has the lowest density of people. It is the biggest Sami municipality and biggest reindeer-herding municipality. http://snl.no/Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino

500 m

Changing cities From sea based to land based transportation The first organized steam boat route was set to north of Norway in 1838, going between Trondheim and Tromsø. Hurtigruten started going regularly between Bergen and Kirkenes in 1936, and still does today. In the 40’s 60’s many coastal routes disapeared from Finnmark, at the same time as the road network expanded. The first roads were built in Varanger and Repparfjord in late 1800’s. The first national road through Finnmark was finished in 1941. In the last decades ferries have been replaced by tunnels and bridges. http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/dep/jd/dok/noquer/1994/nou-1994-21/33. html?id=374792

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km 31