Max Telford by Northumbria University

Colour

Kedelig hvid

Salvie

Kakē

Skogrøn

Tørv

Jorden

Skifer

Helt Mørk

The core colour story of thora features muted neutral tones, that are offset by a contrasting dull white and sage. These base colours are easily transitional year round, and are designed to merge into trending colours for seasons to come. This colour story doesn‘t change and the fabrics are updated to keep up with new emerging technologies that support more sustainable practises.

Nylon

Webbing

Cotton Twill

Rubber

Gabardine

Wind Res Cloth

Wool

Bull

Denim

waxed Cotton

Ripstop

WE DONT BELIEVE IN GOODBYE, BUT RATHER, UNTIL NEXT TIME OLD FRIEND.

THE THORA GUIDE TO GARMENT DECONSTRUCTION

STRENGTHS

The goal of this look book is designed to be sold as part of the product rather than an optional section of the brands website. Therefore, should a customer have any questions about our brands sustainability pledge they have it in paper form, with added content showing how their individual product has been made, sourced and responsibly disposed of. If consumers have further questions, contact details are also provided in the guide. These look books/Guides also act as a receipt for the consumers product and therefore means that the guide isn’t discarded with the packaging but is kept as part of the product.

Thora is a brand that represent the amalgamation of simplistic design and hardy resilience of technical craftsmanship. Drawing on the essence of historical garments and encapsulating them in a minimalistic reformation. Our aim is to create time capsule pieces that can inspire future generations, as we advance forwards as humans in a technological race that so often refers to the past to inspire the future. May we become the new link in the chain of development.

-Transparent businesses module promoting conscious consumption. -Thora is an Informative brand which promotes sustainability as an active lifestyle change. -sustainability is sold as part of the product and is embedded in everything the brand does -works alongside local businesses and farmers to support local economies and establish healthy working relations. -Quality made clothing designed to last a long time -communicates with the consumer to beneﬁt them I.e charity events and restoration events

thor THE GUIDE TO

DECONSTRUCTION

Thora’s refund policy is directly linked to the guide and means consumers have 2 weeks to return items that aren’t suitable or are faulty (this excludes custom ﬁt orders ) because the guides are directly linked to the product they too must be returned for the refund to be processed, this is clearly stated in the product life cycle.

We strive to advance, we strive to create,

CHAPTER 1, MEMORIES OF MACHINA. The guide before you contains the information required to responsibly deconstruct your garments. It is a treasure, an artifact and gate way to knowledge. Treat it well, just like your clothes it too is a piece of your wardrobe and will one day help you return your garment to the earth.

faithfully,

THREATS -sustainability could be seen as a trend rather than a commitment -cost of quality materials and labour in the UK is higher -local businesses may not cooperate as concept could been seen as a risky investment -After effects of Brexit has increased the price of shipping form the EU to UK -Uncertain political climate

th ra

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

BRAND TRANSPARENCY through the looking glass is a blog that gives BLOG Thora consumers full insight into the workings of Thora. The point

of this blog is to provide information that informative and honest. It highlights the process and the development of our products from start to ﬁnish. The blog is an integral part of what we do and is constantly updated by our social media team.

The guide given to you provides information on the collection Novello Land & Sky. This book is the. . . . . . . . in the collection and contains all the information needed to care for your new garment. These pieces are design to become the next generation of historical clothing. You are now a steward to that legacy. Everything changes with time, treat your clothes well and they’ll age with grace. May they tell stories without word and when their times comes let us return them to the earth.

Market position

OPPOTUNITIES

Start the cycle again Faithfully

Sustainable

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University Botanical Gardens

MARKET POSITION Evaluating on Thora’s position in the market, we can see that as the price of goods increases so does its sustainability factor. This could be due to the cost factor associated with production of sustainable products or its exclusivity I.e are these brands more sustainable because they produce less? Thora’s place in the market is a reﬂection of quantities produced and incorporates sustainable practises that make the cost of these products high than average market level. They don’t breach the designer market but remain in a higher market setting that enable them to hold desirability. Thora essentials is a diffusion line that prevents Thora breaching into the top end of the consumer market as the brand still needs to be accessible by a wide consumer range.

Lower Market

Upper Market

Un-sustainable

-drive for sustainable products from consumers means there’s a gap in the market -research and development into sustainability could see new technologies emerge from Thora that could see the brand pioneer new industry practises -working with local businesses can beneﬁt the local economy and beneﬁt communities -creating a new demand for UK production can see overseas investment

WEAKNESSES -doesn’t ship globally so reduces consumer market. -due to expense of sustainable practises brand is expensive -limited stock so can’t produces to huge demand -made to order so potential long wait times during busy periods -sustainability is a Taboo issue for consumers as larger businesses have green washed fast fashion.

Set in the heart of Cambridge, Thora’s head ofﬁce is set in a redeveloped town derelict. Based next to parker’s piece the Thora head ofﬁces is located closely to the university botanical gardens and close proximity to the main shopping district. Cambridge is set in East Anglia which is reported to have the highest agricultural activity in the UK. This mean Thora is able to operate closely to London, distribute between farmers and co-operate with academic institutes.

Thora, Novello land & s..

Thora welcome page

www.thora.co.uk

CONTACT

SHOP

-THORA FUTURE ARCHIVE: NOVELLO

HOME

ABOUT US -THORA THOUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

SHOP

CONTACT

-THORA ESSETIALS

Product life-cycle

ABOUT US -THORA THOUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

-THORA ESSETIALS

LOOK 1, THE CARTOGRAPHER

DISTRIBUTION

DISPOSAL

Crop waste from agricultural busniesses are trasported to the Thora warehouse for handling and cold storage, where they are then proccessed into natural dyes ready for the next collection with Thora Future Archive.

Made to order garments are shipped using carbon off-set shipping in compostable packaging, even down to the tape. Shipped garments are covered for free returns via the same method, collected straight from the consumers front door

DESIGN PROCESS

PRODUCT

Once consumer have ﬁnished with the products their supplied handbook will advice them on how to deconstruct the garment snd what can be recycled, composted or upcycled. alternativley garments can be sent back to Thora to be disposed of responsibly using the same methods provided.

Collections are inspired by historical events and are designed to re-create garments from the past in order to inspire the future.

Products are made to stand the test of time, this can be seen from the Thora Future Archive. These garments are made to become the next generation of historical garments.

RAW MATERIALS

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PRESENTS THE MILITARY SMOCK

THE MILITARY TECH BLAZER

Hand dyed Shibori print created using waste tea bags from cafes in Cambridge 100% LI £290

A recreation from the Thora family archive, updated for modern uses. Organic cotton hemp blend 50% CO 50% CA/HA £340

EXPLORE THE LATEST COLLECTION FROM THE THORA FUTURE ARCHIVE, NOVELLO A/W21

Novello land & sky takes inspiration from my family’s old military documents and WW2 uniforms, to create a project that explores the hardship and perseverance of the war effort. Looking at the dig for victory campaign to create natural dyes from household waste. To creating a visual story through print exploration based of old military diagrams and emergencies surveillance maps.

Garments are tested for compostability and recycling factors that enable them to breakdown into the environment. wasted created from the manufacturing process is composted with the natural dye waste to create natural fertaliser which can be sold back to farmers

EXPLORE

ONLINE PROCESS

Alternatively, consumers can look through website information such Thora through the looking glass, Projects Green ﬁeld or archived ranges in the Thora Past Archive tab..

Consumers are then guided through products information and specs, once found the desired product they submit size request (if a customer size order, then consumer sends through size specs following size guide recommendations.

From the home pages consumers can view pieces from the Thora Future Archive, Thora Essentials range and make pre orders/custom orders through the website.

START

THE REMNANT VEST

THE N.F TROUSER

Created from the offcuts of production, organic cotton, hemp blend 50% CO 50% CA/HA £210

Printed with the signature sky derelict print the N.F trouser fabric is 100% compostable 100% CA/HA £420

MANUFACTURING

Our social media channels are managed by our staff in our head ofﬁce, they are responsible for the Thora Through the Looking Glass blog, their role within the brand means Thora has constant interaction with the consumer through social media pages such as Instagram and Facebook. Customers on our mailing list will receive bit size emails brieﬂy explaining what Thora is currently doing and how our actions are low impact.

PROMOTION Products are accompanied by the Thora Guide to Deconstruction. This hand book contains the conusmers receipt as part of the book. Thora sells sustainabaility as part of the product and not just an optional section. It informs the customer in a constructive way

SOURCING STUDIO THORA Functionally Scandinavian Novello land & Sky AW/22 thora.co.uk

Consumer then navigates to Thora website through social media or advert links which takes them direct to the item they saw or the homepage of Thora.

Consumers see launch event, social media post or advertising through media outlets

-Sources materials within the UK to support UK industry is our way of helping local businesses. We believe that by sourcing from UK providers we have a better understanding of where our materials come from, but also help build the number of skilled works accessing roles within the Manufacturing sector.

LOCAL ECONOMIES -Thora works alongside partner businesses to help revitalise communities in the UK. Linking back to our sourcing methods, Thora helps local economies by enabling job opportunities with partnerships that can help people ﬁnd jobs and learn key skills to access industry.

Item is now in the consumers basket ready to purchase, consumer is guided through purchase process ensuring they are clear informed on returns policy, offered an emailing subscription which talks about our contributions to sustainable practise and blog update notiﬁcations (mailing list isn’t used to promote individual products just launch event)

Consumer is satisﬁed with purchase and returns to the brand in the future

R&D -Thora Sources crop waste from agricultural distributors to create natural dyes, this is then composted with natural ﬁbre waste and sold back to farmers at a fair price. By working alongside the Cambridge university Botanical gardens, we sponsor student to research more sustainable plant dyeing methods.

Consumer is updated regularly on the shipping of products to them direct, communicated through DHL

Consumer is dissatisﬁed with order, by which they refer to the thora handbook for process of refund or alternative options, handbook contain receipts individual to that product and consumer and must be returned with the item to authorise refund. DHL process return and drives direct to consumer to collect. Consumer is content with service and returns to view other items on the webpage.

Set on the outskirts of Cambridge, Coldham is a warehouse park with a cold store facilities included, this means Thora could source agricultural waste and preseve it for winter months when its needed for collection ranges. Stock is also stored here for the Thora Future Archive collections. The warehouse stocks a limited number of the Thora essentials as these are pre-order upon stock release and made to customer request (refer to product costing for MAX quantities)

SUSTAINABILITY/ RESPONSIBILITY -Taking responsibility for our carbon foot print is a huge part of what under pins Thora. As a result we sell sustainability as part of the product rather than just an additional tab on our website. This means important documents like receipts all have a message on responsible disposal of products right down to the tags.

Secret Lagoon Iceland

HIDDEN HOTSPRING Based in the Icelandic region of Hruni. The secret Lagoon would house the Thora concept store which explores the use of geothermal energy in the process of creating plant-based dyes. The concept store though hard to reach for many the event would be widely promoted over social media channels and news outlets. The goal of this store is to showcase how Thora can experiment with innovative solutions to current world problems while harnessing what is naturally occurring around us. The concept store would feature pieces from the Thora future archive range and would still allow customers to order stock online from staff in store.

Natural Dyeing process using tea waste

For my FMP I wanted to base it around my family’s Danish lineage and the events that transpired during WW2. It started with a little red tin in my nana’s house when we were clearing out. Within this tin there was rich history about my family I didn’t know about, in particular a great uncle called William who’d kept all his old WW2 documents. Within the pages of these old records there were accounts of his time on the front lines. Diagrams of planes engines and sketches of map, but also passports and a post card of my nana’s birthplace Hjørring. Novello land & sky takes inspiration from my family’s old military documents and WW2 uniforms, to create a project that explores the hardship and perseverance of the war effort. Looking at the dig for victory campaign to create natural dyes from household waste. To creating a visual story through print exploration based of old military diagrams and emergencies surveillance maps. Novello is a homage to my family’s history, and the Covid pandemic has made me treasure this experience even more. It’s made me realise how important it is to connect with your past in order to appreciate where you are now, and fundamentally begs the question, what will you leave behind for future generations?

Fully Compostable

RESPONSIBLE COMPOSTING FMP CONCEPT As part of my FMP concept I’ve chosen to research how natural ﬁbres compost when mixed with my natural dyes. Following on from my WW2 expolration, the Waste Not Want Not campaign saw the public using everything in the house to aid the war effort. I wanted to research ways to disposing of natural textile waste in a way that was responsible and made by FMP more sustainable. The hope of this research is to transform cotton waste into compost so that it could become regenative to the environment.

Diagram of individual pattern pieces, this also shows the scale of the tea shibori on the linen. This is part of the ‘Guide to Deconstruction’ which shows consumers how to take apart garments to be composted and recycled responsibly

HEMP NATURAL DYE, TURMERIC RICE WATER

COTTON COMPOSTING PROCESS

WEEK 1

Initial intergration of organic cotton with Natural tea dye. Fabric has been shredded into scrap in order to aid the decomposition process.

WEEK 2

WEEK 3

Observation of cotton compost waste has seen wildlife interacting with the scraps. Most prominent were woodlice.

Vegetable waste has been mixed with the textile waste to promote cotton breakdown, review of composting process will be left for a month to see if theres noticable progress.

2 MONTHS

Decomposition of cotton waste is underway, it’s visible to see the cotton breaking down where it was mixed with vegetable waste. This would indicate that in order to efﬁciently compost natural textiles it needs the aid of organic products.

Development of FMP concept. Looking into the watse not want not campaign during WW2 I found that during that period of time the public was urged to re-use and recycle all products that we would deem waste in present time. I wanted to see what house hold waste could be re-used to create something new. I found that one of the most common throw away things was tea bags. So I started collecting used tea bags from my family and re-used them to create natural dye baths (tea bags were only brewed in hot water no milk was added) From there I wanted to experiment with print methods which led to Shibori. The orange tinge of the tea against the linen gives the impression of old maps and military documents.

ENGINE PRINT DEVELOPMENT

For these are machines, they are the advent of land & Sky.

No.1 THE MEDIC

No.2 THE SAILOR

No.3 THE CARTOGRAPHER

No.4 THE ENGINEER

No.5 THE PILOT

No.6 THE LANCER

With in the air looms of a relatives past lies the documents of a great war.

B-29 CRASH SITE

SKY LIGHT ROOM SHOOT

As a result of my research my Photoshoot takes place at the B-29 over exposed crash site in Glossop. This place is the site of a plane crash in 1948, which saw a photographic reconnaissance plane go down in the harsh fogs of the Snakepass during its decent. I wanted to encapsulate the feeling of history my collection carries with the physical remnants of the past these ruins hold. My prints create a direct link to the scattered plane parts along with the sprawling landscape surrounding this isolated site. Playing with the contrast of land and sky I wanted this photoshoot to encapsulate the essence of WW2 history and pay respects to the war effort.

SCAN ME

SHOOT SET UP PROCESS

The sky light room shoot took place in my bedroom, I took advantage of the ceiling height to create a sense of space. The challenge of shooting without a model was to create movement and silhouette in a flat garment. The concept was to capture movement in stasis, a moment of equilibrium before that fall. The use of dust sheets was used to mimic land scapes and rough metal textures as though lapsing map reliefs. Using darker setting to create atmosphere and enabling more detailed photos.

LOOK 5:THE PILOT

FIGHTER JET JACKET No.5 FIGHTER JET TROUSER No.6

This is a machine, it is the advent of Land & Sky.....

GUIDE TO DECONSTRUCTION

The guide to deconstruction has been designed to enable the dismantling of clothing. By breaking down the components of my collection I want to show people that garments, like recycling, can be organised and disposed of responsibly. Creating a guide that lists what can be recycled, composted or up-cycled means consumers learn more about their clothing and how to responsibly dispose of them once finished with.

SCREEN PRINT LAYERS

A. B-29 Crash Site Artifact of ruin, Sky Derelict

thor

Everything changes with time, treat your clothes well and they’ll age with grace. May they tell stories without word and when their times comes let us return them to the earth.

THE GUIDE TO

DECONSTRUCTION

B. B-29 Crash Site Artifact of ruin, Plane Wing

Start the cycle again Faithfully

H. Tea stained Shibori. Creation from desolation.

E. MILITARY TECH BLAZER BACK

F. MILITARY TECH BLAZER FRONT

CHAPTER 3, AN IMMORTAL EXISTENCE.

G. MILITARY TECH BLAZER BUGGY LINING

THE MILITARY TECH BLAZER.

DECONSTRUCTION NOTES.

The military tech blazer is based around the jackets worn by foot soldiers on the frontline during WW2. The use of pockets over the garment were designed to imitate ammunition pouches that carried R.M.G rounds. The use of ecru hemp twill for the Military tech blazer creates a contrast to what would typically be dark khaki uniforms and adding a softer edge to the military theme.

To take apart the blazer when it’s time to dispose of it requires only a few simple steps. Because the garments are sew together using organic cotton thread they don’t need to be removed as they will break down naturally. Sections that are unprinted can be composted but require a prewash before composting, this is done to remove any chemicals the fibres may have picked up from wear, it also means any micro fibre lint that’s collected is removed as well.

The map overlays on the blazer have been constructed together in panels to represent the welding of metal sheets that constructed the Spit fires during the war. Just as soldiers embellished their planes each garment is printed with the signature Novello logo, the sky derelict, for these are machines and they are the advent of land and sky.

Truly nothing within the universe is immortal but the universe itself, that is not to say that though one existence may come to an end another cannot bloom in its place. To return to the earth is the cycle of life, but to carry the memories of the past is to create hope for the future. Though we chase a dream of eternal presence, know that it does not have to be in flesh and blood, but a recollection of a time once lived. Hold dear the material memory that constructs your principles and rejoice in the nostalgia invoked within the heart. For we are eternal even after we part.

The sleeve lining can be directly composted, these need to be gently hand washed as the dye used is derived from natural tea staining techniques. These dyes contain nutrients that help in the composting process of the fibres and enrich the soil. Sections that are printed such as the buggy lining and pocket facing will need to be taken to a textile recycling point as these will need to be treated before they can be re-used. Alternatively, you can upcycle these printed pieces to keep a memento of the Novello collection for the future to come.

L. N.F TROUSER DETAIL CONSTRUCTION SECTIONS.

N.F TROUSER. M. N.F TROUSER MAIN BODY CONSTRUCTION SECTIONS.

K. Remains of the ﬂeeting

CHAPTER 4, ADVENT OF THE MAP SEEKER. “REMEMBER-Never discuss military, naval or air matter in public or with a stranger, no matter to what nationality he or she may belong.

DECONSTRUCTION NOTES. The N.F Trouser is comprised heavily printed sections that will need to be removed and taken to a local textiles recycling point. Because there is a lot of printed fabric on these trousers, there is enough to up-cycle into a new garment, bag or even an interior piece, alternatively it could just be kept as a memento.

The enemy wants information about you, your unit, your destination. He will do his utmost to discover it. Keep him in the dark. Gossip on military subjects is highly dangerous to the country, whereas secrecy leads to success. BE ON YOUR GUARD and report any suspicious individuals.

A Soldier’s Service book.

N.Stasis capture, the ﬁnal decent.

O. The Fallen, the veiled soldier.

CHAPTER 5, REMNANT OF THE ASHES. What is sentimentality? Why does it bind us to object deemed ordain in nature, when paper is paper whether it be years old or a millennia? Why do we pride the past even when it’s soaked in macabre context? Is it because we seek perseverance in trying times, or simply a message of council when the world around us becomes too twisted to see the path set forth? Reclaimed are the ones who find meaning from history, as they light the way for the future and ignite the darkest of days. Let our past serve as a guide to the future, as to not repeat the mistakes once made.

P. REMNANT VEST CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

The Navy Flight Trouser is the amalgamation of the wide leg silhouette of a sailor pant and the navigation maps used during flight. The pleated overlay is adorned with the Sky derelict print and features bagless welts that lead to patch pockets concealed underneath. This is done to shade the pockets from rainfall whilst giving effects drape to the garment, just like waves on the ocean or the frantic navigation of a map.

Q. REMNANT VEST PRINT DETAILS

THE REMNANT VEST

DECONSTRUCTION NOTES.

The Remnant Vest is created using off-cuts from production, reducing the waste created by the construction process is fundamental to the creation of this garment. The waist coat shape is designed to replicate a life preserve vest used by the aviation department for pilots, the back adjuster has been added to imitate the front closure typically found on them.

The Remnant vest is a fully printed garment made from hemp twill and therefore needs to be deconstructed and taken to a textile recycling point. Alternatively, the panels can be up-cycled into a new product or kept as a memento. The back metal adjuster can be recycled and the corozo button on the front can be reused or composted. Corozo buttons are made from the Tagua nut, it is a hard-wearing material that can effectively breakdown when composted.

Un-printed section such as the main trouser and outer waistband need to be cold pre-washed before placing on the compost. This is done to remove any chemicals or micro fibre debris that has potentially been collected from wear.

I. MILITARY MAP SMOCK FRONT VIEW.

MILITARY MAP SMOCK. The Military Map Smock was an experimental piece looking at the use of naturally dyed linen in its creation. Using waste teabags and paprika achieve an aged orange tone and Shibori print dye methods, the smock is design to replicate old military documents have discoloured over the course of time. Just as thing become old and begin to decay so too does the Military Map Smock, this garment is completely compostable. Simply remove the metal adjuster, gently handwash the fibres and place in compost whilst wet.

J. MILITARY MAP SMOCK BACK VIEW.