8 minute read
Town in focus
Exploring Caernarfon
For several years we had a caravan near Caernarfon at the village of Waunfawr and went to it most weekends during the holiday season. During that period we got to know Caernarfon very well as it was our main area to get the shopping we needed. But my association with the town goes back much further than that and dates from a school trip we were taken on to the magnificent castle in my early secondary school
days. And down the years I have passed through the town or stopped off in it on many, many occasions – and still do so now when I can usually be found in the café at the Morrison’s store enjoying a hot chocolate and a bacon buttie after a day on the Snowdonian hills that border the Caernarfon to Beddgelert road. This often occurs during the colder winter months when the warm drink is much appreciated! But Caernarfon is a delight to visit at any time of the year and attracts tourists on a year round basis. They are drawn by the town’s narrow streets and its stylishly redeveloped and classy waterfront along with its spectacular castle.
Geographically Caernarfon is located on the southern shore of the Menai Straits opposite the Isle of Anglesey. It lies at the mouth of the River Seiont where it flows into the Menai Straits
and creates a natural harbour which is always colourful with boats. Caernarfon is on the A487 approximately 8.6 miles/13.8 km south west of the city of Bangor and has a population of around 10,000 permanent residents. The mountains of Snowdonia border the town to the east and south east. Porthmadog is 19.4 miles/31.2 km away to the south while the Alpine village of Llanberis in Snowdonia is eight miles/12.9 km to the east. The town is easily accessed by car and a good bus network connects it to surrounding towns. Five railway stations have serviced Caernarfon down the years but the main line was shut and the track lifted in 1964 and 1965. The current railway station is the northern terminus of the narrow gauge Welsh Highland Railway which opened on 11th October 1997. It is a spectacular line built mostly for the tourists and the station itself was modernised in 2018 and 2019. Modern day Caernarfon caters for the tourist trade in a big way as visitor’s flock to the town winter and summer alike. There are
plenty of guest houses, inns and pubs, hotels, restaurants and shops. Most of the shops are to be found either in the centre of the town around Pool Street (which is pedestrianised and is the town’s main shopping street) and Castle Square (most commonly known as the ‘Maes’) which is the market square for the town with a market being held there every Saturday throughout the year. Market Square was re-vamped in 2009 at a cost of £2.4 million.
There are also shopping areas on Victoria Dock (Doc Fictoria) which was opened in 2008. The majority of the residential and retail sections of Victoria Dock is built directly beside a popular Blue Flag beach marina. It contains lots of residential homes, bars and bistros, cafés and restaurants, shops and stores as well as a maritime museum and an award winning arts centre. Victoria Dock is stylish and modern and very popular with locals and tourists alike. There are also numerous restaurants, public houses, inns, guest houses and hotels located in and around the town walls. These walls include eight towers and two twin towered gateways and form a complete circuit of around 2,625 ft./800 metres around Caernarfon’s old town. They were built between 1283 and 1285
and today only a very small section is open to the public with the walls being in the care of Cadw (the Welsh Governments historic environment service). Both the town walls and Caernarfon Castle (more of which later) were designated (along with the castles at Conwy, Beaumaris and
Harlech) as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1986. UNESCO describes the towns castle and wall (along with the three other castles mentioned) as ‘the finest
examples of late 13th Century and early 14th Century military architecture in Europe’.
Also in the care of Cadw, and often overlooked by visitors to Caernarfon, is the Roman fort of Segontium. These impressive ruins (mostly just the foundations remain) are passed by one of the major roads into the town and are well worth a visit. A Roman alter was found in one of the walls during restoration work carried out in the 19th Century. Segontium was founded by Agricola in AD77 and was designed to hold a 1,000 strong regiment of auxiliary infantrymen. It was linked by Roman roads to the main legionary bases at Chester and Caerlon. The Romans occupied the fort until about AD394 with no other fort in Wales being held by them for so long. Segontium is free to visit.
A short 656 ft./200 metres away from the fort is the Church of St Peblig which was itself built on the site of a Roman temple. The Church is dedicated to St Peblig and the current structure dates from the 14th Century and is a Grade I listed building.
Also of interest is the statue of David Lloyd George located in Castle Square. It was sculpted by W. Goscombe John and was erected in 1921 when Lloyd George was Prime Minister. He acted as the Member of parliament for the local area from 1890 to 1945. Despite all the other attractions Caernarfon has to offer, it is mighty Caernarfon Castle that is at the top of the tourists ‘must see’ list when they visit the town. The castle is recognised around the world as one of the greatest buildings of the middle Ages. It was built in the 13th Century by King Edward 1st as a Royal palace and military fortress and was as the very core of a Medieval walled town. The castle was constructed between 1283 and 1330 at the then staggering cost of £25,000. The banded stonework and polygonal towers are thought to have been inspired by the walls of Constantinople and imperial Roman architecture with the impressive curtain wall, with nine towers and two gatehouses, still surviving largely intact. Indeed, the castle as a whole is still fairly complete which is hardly surprising as the building was built to survive assault and siege. Today the castle is under the care of Cadw and welcomes visitors. It is home to the regimental museum of the Royal Welsh Fusiliers. Caernarfon castle towers above the River Seiont and provides the quintessential view of the town. It is easy to see why such a site was chosen for this impressive structure.
Caernarfon has hosted the National Eisteddfod in 1862, 1894, 1906, 1921, 1935, 1959 and 1979. Caernarfon was previously spelt ‘Carnarvon’ and ‘Caernarvon’ but these were Anglicised spellings and were superseded in 1926 and 1974 respectively. As towns go it is Welsh through and through and well worth checking out. A summer visit will be busy, especially in the vicinity of the castle but you could always come in winter when things are a little quieter – but not too much! n
Steve Goodier is an outdoor writer and photographer who specialises in North Wales. He has walked and explored all over the world and is the author of 11 walking books with a further two on Snowdonia due to be published shortly.
What to do
Visit the castle
Undeniably the biggest attraction in the town, Caernarfon Castle is well known for being one of the greatest buildings of the Middle Ages. Complete with colour-banded octagonal towers, this architectural medieval marvel — connected to an impressive 734m circuit of town walls — was built on the site of a Norman earth-and-timber castle. Visit the Cadw website to buy your admission ticket online before you visit.
Take a slate workshop tour
Situated just outside of the royal town, Inigo Jones Slate Works is open all year round. Originally founded in 1861 to prefabricate school writing slates, Inigo Jones had to find
new products to sell when writing slates were replaced by paper. The owner at the time, Hugh Jones, started producing electrical panels in slate which proved to be very popular and the company rapidly expanded, sourcing its slate from the whole of North Wales. Workshop tours are available and there is a café on site.
Go for a bike ride
The Lôn Eifion cycle track is part of Lôn Las Cymru (it’s route number 8 on the National Cycle Network) and it begins near Caernarfon Castle. This traffic-free route climbs
500ft over ten miles to its highest point, a radio mast south of Penygroes, before a gentle downhill stretch to the village of Bryncir. The entire length of Lôn Eifion has a tarmaced
surface making it ideal for the whole family.
Take in a show
Galeri Caernarfon includes a theatre and cinema, work units, art space, rehearsal studios, meeting rooms and a café bar. A wide range of events are organised at Galeri Caernarfon every year so there’s bound to be something on when you visit – have a look at its website for up to date event listings.
Go on a family day out
Gypsy Wood Park is a unique North Wales attraction that all the family will love. There are loads of things to see and do at its outdoor park in the foothills of Snowdonia – and it is a must-see attraction for all animal, nature, outdoor, train and fairy lovers. Primarily a summer attraction, Gypsy Wood will be open its doors in March.
