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CARBONADE DE BOEUF

Serves 4 hungry souls

Food for thought

I’m sure there’s something I have to remember in November. Around the fifth, I think. No, it’s gone. I’m sure it will come to me. Perhaps it was a reminder to think of all the lovely things that we can enjoy in November, despite its rather dismal reputation.

This is very much the time for donning the wellies and going out into the North Wales countryside trudging through conker-strewn lanes, ideally en route to a pub with a fire crackling away in the hearth.

There’s also the immense pleasure one can take in defiantly resisting any mention of Christmas until the first day of next month, thwarting the best efforts of supermarkets trying to sell you mince pies with expiry dates that don’t even take them past Bonfire Night (oh, that’s right, now I remember).

For me, November is all about the kind of slow cooked meals that make you glow like something from an old Ready Brek commercial. The French are masters of this. Cassoulets and Bakeofes are staples over there in the autumn. I recently made a variation on a recipe Mum used to make in Paysanne called a Carbonade de Boeuf, which is based on a Flemish recipe, given a local touch by using Clogwyn Gold ale instead of Dutch beer…

J Olive oil J 800g braising steak. I used some bavette steak from R. Evans in

Llandudno, which had been trimmed and cut into large chunks J Plain flour J 1 500ml bottle of beer or ale – your choice! J 1 large onion, peeled and sliced J 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped J 2 Bay leaves Preheat the oven to about 150˚C (FAN). You’ll need a good quality casserole (with a lid) that you can put over a direct heat. Heat some olive oil in the casserole and patiently brown the beef chunks three at a time. Put the browned meat into a separate bowl while you repeat the process. Once all the beef is in that bowl, toss the onion slices into the casserole and cook slowly golden. Add the chopped garlic and stir in.

Then put the beef back into the casserole and mix everything up. Sprinkle in a tablespoon of flour and stir until all the juices have been

Cai Ross is co-owner and Maitre d’ of the award-winning Paysanne Bistro in Deganwy, which has been serving French country-style food to the fine people of North Wales since 1988. He also writes for Calibre Magazine, BBC Good Food, HeyUGuys.com and The North Wales Weekly News

absorbed. Then add the beer, heat until is all starts to bubble, give it one last stir, then add the bay leaves, some salt and pepper, and pop the lid on.

Stick it in the oven for about two and a half hours and let it fill the house with drool-inducing aromas. I

think this is best served with a mashed potato dish like Colcannon, and perhaps some carrots (which you can even stir in at the end). You can steal a tip from Delia and make some toasted croutes with mustard spread on top to give it that je ne sais quoi. n

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