Town in Focus

Llandudno Exploring Steve Goodier visits Llandudno – the

seaside town that is affectionately known as the Queen of Welsh Resorts…

It’s a funny thing, but I can’t recall a time when I haven’t visited

Llandudno at least once a year! From very early childhood my

parents took my sister and I there for summers days out when

we would stroll along the front, eat ice cream and spend time

on the pier. In later years my wife and I would often drive to

the summit of The Great Orme to eat fish and chips on our way

back from a day on the Snowdonia Mountains. And once our

children were born we took them there too and the process

repeated itself.

There is something relaxing and very romantic about following

the curve of the bay and promenade towards The Great Orme

and the pier and imagining you were back in Victorian times as

you visualise what it must have looked like with the ladies in

long flowing dresses holding sun parasols and the men dressed

in their best suits.

And it is really down to both The Victorians and The

Edwardians that Llandudno gained its reputation as a premier

seaside resort. Much of the elegant seafront architecture that

graces the promenade today dates from those times and during

this fast development period the town became known as ‘The

Queen of Welsh Resorts’. Author the late Ivor Wynne Jones

chose this title and pre-fixed it with ‘Llandudno’ for his superb

1973 book which was completely revised in 2002.

Although it looks older, most of what you see today on and

around the promenade was conceived, designed and purpose

built from 1846 onwards by surveyors, architects and planners

working for Lord Mostyn and his successors.

And there is still much of The Victorian era about modern day

Llandudno. It is not your typical seaside resort but falls in to the

category of much more ‘traditional’ and ‘elegant’.

Llandudno Bay forms the backdrop to the sweeping Victorian

Promenade and a beach of sand, but mostly shingle and rock,

runs for just on two miles between the headlands of The Great

Orme and The Little Orme. The road that follows the bay is

collectively known as ‘The Parade’ but there is a different name

for each block on it, and it is on and around these ‘parades’ and

Often forgotten by visitors is The West Shore which has a

much quieter beach on the lovely estuary of the River Conwy.

Modern day Llandudno is a bustling and thriving town that

has a good selection of shops, cafés, pubs, restaurants and takeaways that are located along Mostyn Street (which runs behind the promenade), with some on Mostyn Broadway and

Mostyn Avenue. For shoppers there is plenty of scope and many

are the family that leave dad and the kids on the beach while

mum goes off for a bit of ‘retail therapy’ nearby.

In 1994 The North Wales Theatre, Arena and Conference

Centre was built. It is located near the centre of the promenade

on Penrhyn Crescent and hosts ballets, concerts, theatre

productions, circuses, ice shows and pantomimes. It was

extended in 2006 and re-named ‘Venue Cymru’.

In recent years a ‘Town Trail’ has been developed which

starts at the library. The walk has been carefully planned to

give people the chance to look at Llandudno from a historic

perspective. Fifteen information boards have been placed

in strategic locations and each has a circular map on it and

detailed information on nearby places of interest.

The modern town of Llandudno encompasses several nearby

Bay and Deganwy and takes its name from the ancient parish

of St. Tudno. For the present day visitor the main attraction will

always be that lovely Victorian Promenade, The Great Orme and

the stunning pier.

We have already looked at the promenade but what of The

Great Orme? This wonderful up-thrust of rock rises to

679ft/207 metres and has a car park and summit hotel on

top. Just driving up here to take in the views of Anglesey, the

nearby coast and the mountains of Snowdonia is well worth

the trip. And the awesome Marine Drive around the lower

reaches of ‘The Orme’ is an absorbing and beautiful motoring

experience. But you can walk up too, use the historic tramway

or take a ride on the cable car. However you reach the topmost

inches, make sure you do, it is one of the highlights of a visit to

this wonderful location.

And let’s not forget The Little Orme. True it has not been as

commercially developed as its bigger brother, but you can walk

to the top and the views are just as stunning. Rising to 463ft/141

metres with part of it being a nature reserve, it offers a great

place for a picnic or to watch birds from. Both The great and

Little Orme have sheer limestone cliffs and offer a real ‘wow’

factor to any visit to Llandudno.

Then there is the pier. Built in 1878 it is classed as Grade II

Listed building. The pier was extended in 1884 and became

2,295 feet/700 metres long and is the longest pier in Wales. It

is a quintessential pier which both adults and children love to

walk along exploring its amusement arcades, fairground rides,

cafés and bars. Fishermen love it too and many visitors stop to

watch them and see what they catch.

Near the pier entrance in the summer you will find the

famous Professor Codman’s Punch and Judy show which

was established in 1864 making it Britain’s oldest Punch and Judy show. It still draws the crowds in today despite the

attractions of mobile phones and iPads that seem to dominate

our kids thinking.

Near the base of The Great Orme (and above the pier) you will

find Happy Valley which was a former quarry which Lord

Mostyn gave as a gift to the town in 1887 to celebrate the Golden

Jubilee of Queen Victoria. The area was landscaped with pretty

gardens, miniature golf courses, a putting green and the ever

popular open air theatre which I have fond memories of being

taken to as a child by my parents.

We couldn’t leave Llandudno without mentioning Lewis Caroll

and his timeless children’s book, ‘Alice in Wonderland’. What’s

the connection? Well, the real life Alice Liddell, who Caroll based

literary Alice on, holidayed with her family at their holiday

home, Penmorfa, near the towns West Shore. She made her first

visit to the resort in 1861 aged eight and although it has never

been proved one way or the other if Lewis Caroll ever met Alice

Liddell in Llandudno, he certainly became a great friend to her

and it is believed by many that it was Alice’s adventures in the

town which inspired Caroll to write his famous book when she

recounted them to him. The sequel to ‘Alice in Wonderland’ was

‘Alice Through the Looking Glass’ and Llandudno is reputed to be

much of the inspiration behind this too.

The Walrus and The Carpenter both feature in this second

book and are actually two large rocks that sit prominently on

Llandudno’s West Shore. There is even a modern day ‘Alice

Town Trail’ where you can follow the history of Alice in the

town with an easily downloaded mobile app. n

Steve Goodier is an outdoor writer and photographer who specialises in North Wales. He has walked and explored all over the world and is the author of 11 walking books with a further two on Snowdonia due to be published shortly.

What to do

Visit a distillery

Penderyn Distillery produces award-winning

single malt whiskies and spirits and it is now possible to tour its Llandudno Lloyd St

distillery. And during March Penderyn has a ‘Two For One’ tour offer for those attending

before the end of the month. To book, simply visit:

www.penderyn.wales/llandudno-tour-offer

Climb the Great Orme

The Great Orme is a limestone headland in the north of Llandudno. The views from the

top of The Orme are nothing short of spectacular, and you can even have an ice cream up

here too. The good news is that you don’t have to walk up it – a cable car and tram both run it the

summer months, and there is a car park at the top too…

Visit a department store

Located on Mostyn Street, Clare’s Department Store was established in 1927 by the Baxter family.

Today you will find a modern store that manages to balance its traditional heritage values with

a range of premium brands. The core values have and always will the customer first. Clares of

Llandudno continues to offer exceptional customer service and quality products today and is a

must-visit for those new to the area.

www.claresllandudno.com

Walk down the pier

Llandudno Pier is a Grade II* listed structure that stretches 2,295

feet (700 m) over the sea. It is the longest in Wales, and one of the

UK’s finest!

Go to a show

Venue Cymru is a theatre, conference centre and arena located right on the seafront. It

has a wonderful variety of high quality shows that rotate regularly, as well as a great

restaurant that offers stunning panoramic sea views across Llandudno Bay.

Visit a gallery

Mostyn is Wales’ foremost contemporary art gallery and is a registered charity

supported by the Arts Council of Wales and Conwy County Borough Council. Behind

an impressive Edwardian terracotta facade, and topped with a landmark gold spire

the original turn of the century galleries are merged with stunning modern spaces

in an award-winning architectural design. The six gallery spaces exhibit the best

in international contemporary art and craft, showing artists and makers from Wales

and beyond. With friendly staff, activities for all ages, a lovely shop and a bright and

airy café, there’s something for everyone.

Have a beer!

Established in 2015, Wild Horse brewery is based in the heart of Llandudno. They

brew beer with balance, drinkability and flavour at the heart of our brewing

philosophy. Inspiration for their beer and branding comes from our beautiful natural

surroundings here in North Wales as well as its rich history. Having brewed a wider

range of styles in our early years, their focus is now on hop forward, hazy IPAs and

pale ales, alongside their pilsner-style lager Buckskin.