9 minute read
Town in focus
ConwyExploring
The historic town of Conwy doesn’t really need an introduction. Steve Goodier takes a tour of the jewel in our North Wales crown…
The little town of Conwy can get very busy (and a bit congested) on sunny summer afternoons, but it’s nothing compared to the old days prior to 1991!
In that year the A55 Coastal Expressway by-passed the
narrow one-way streets and continued instead under the waters of the estuary in the form of a dual carriageway and a tunnel (Britain’s first immersed tube tunnel).
In those days I was travelling North Wales for a timber company and often had to spend time on Anglesey and the Llŷn Peninsula which meant for me the journey home followed
the coast and passed through Conwy. During the spring and summer months I was always happy to see Conwy’s ancient walls and know I had reached the town because during May, June, July and August the queue to reach the place started
several miles to the west of it as the traffic slowed to pass
through.
There was no way round except for those who knew the
narrow and steep old mountain road that rose over the Sychnant Pass from Penmaenmawr. However, this was often clogged up too as frustrated motorists followed others hoping they knew a short cut to get around the traffic.
Understandably, I was very pleased to see the turrets of Conwy Castle and cross the bridge by it knowing that the worst of the queuing was now behind me and the way home
more straightforward. It’s easy to see why the opening of the tunnel was greeted so enthusiastically by motorists!
Most people look forward to arriving in Conwy and being greeted by the imposing castle towering above the colourful estuary and harbour which together make a spectacular scene on a sunny spring or summer day. Most visitors are drawn here by the magnificent castle and the fairly intact
town walls as well as by the charming narrow streets and the lovely harbour and estuary. Conwy is a colourful and bright location which is well geared up for the tourist trade with a good selection of shops, pubs and restaurants to satisfy their needs. Geographically the town sits near the mouth of the River Conwy and faces Deganwy across it. The river was originally known as The Cynwy and the name Conwy is derived from the old Welsh Words ‘Cyn’ (meaning ‘Chief’) and ‘gwy’ (meaning ‘water’). It has a permanent population of just over 4,000 but this number is swollen each summer season as the numerous visitors flood in.
Over the years I have had to produce a number of walks for various magazines that start and finish at Conwy, and it never
ceases to amaze me how charming a walk around the streets, the walls and the harbour side really can be.
As well as being an immensely pretty location Conwy is also in a very sheltered one. Close by the Carneddau Mountains of Snowdonia rise to over 3,000 ft/914 metres, and towering
directly above the walls and streets of the town the imposing slopes of Conwy Mountain (Mynydd Y Dref) form a natural wall. Compared to the much higher mountains of Snowdonia nearby, Conwy Mountain is only small with its summit rising to 801 ft/244 metres. However, on the top there are the remains
of an Iron Age hill fort and a wonderful view of the town, the castle, the sea and the Snowdonian mountains. The ridge dropping back to Conwy gives breath-taking panoramas of the estuary and Llandudno’s Great Orme. The walk to the summit is a popular one and not too taxing although it will take you a good three hours (there and back) from the town and you should be reasonably fit before undertaking it.
So let’s take a look at what the town itself has to offer the visitor. If you approach the town from the direction of Llandudno Junction you cross the River Conwy and pass
by both the suspension bridge and the railway bridge. The suspension bridge was designed by famous bridge and road builder Thomas Telford to replace the old ferry that operated
here. Telford designed the bridge’s supporting towers to match the turrets of the castle above it and it was opened in 1826. It is now only open to pedestrians, and along with the
original toll keeper’s house it is in the care of The National Trust. The railway bridge was built by Robert Stephenson for the Chester and Holyhead Railway and is of tubular design with the first tube being completed in 1848 and the second
in 1849. It is still in use today and the station is located within the town itself. This is unmanned and tickets have to be purchased once you are on the train.
Conwy’s most impressive and famous feature is, of course, its castle which is well worth a visit and is highly photogenic. The castle (along with the town walls) were commissioned by King Edward I of England and the construction work took place between 1283 and 1289. It was a strategic move on
Edward’s part and formed part of his ongoing campaign to subdue and control the people of Wales. The total building costs ran to £15,000 which was considered an enormous amount at the time.
Conwy Castle is classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with UNESCO calling it ‘one of the finest examples of late
13th Century and early 14th Century military architecture in
Where to stay
Naw Stryd y Capel is a delightful contemporary cottage that offers luxury
accommodation for a couple. With beautifully designed interiors and an enclosed rear courtyard, it is located just a couple of minutes walk to the centre of Conwy
www.walescottageholidays.co.uk
The Sea Chest is a fourbedroom home safely tucked away within the town walls. Found just
60 yards from the old
quay and waterfront this
beautiful terrace house also boasts superfast broadband and a cosy log burner.
www.northwalesholidaycottages.co.uk
Europe’. The castle was involved in several wars during its history and withstood the siege of Madog ap Llywelyn during the winter of 1294-95. It became a temporary refuge for King Richard II in 1399 and was held for a few months by the forces
of Owain Glyndwr in 1401. In the English Civil War the castle was held by forces loyal to King Charles I until 1646. After this
it was partially stripped by Parliamentary forces before being completely ruined in 1665. During the late 18th and early 19th
Centuries Conwy Castle was a favourite destination for artists and much restoration work took place on the structure during the second half of the 19th Century.
The town walls can almost be completely walked around and make an exciting outing where you are often above the
roofs of Conwy’s houses. Conwy was also the original site of Aberconwy Abbey which was founded by Llywelyn the Great.
Other attractions that are popular with visitors to Conwy include Aberconwy House which was one of the first buildings built within the town walls, Plas Mawr (an Elizabethan house built between 1576 and 1585), Vardre Hall
(a 19th Century Grade II listed building) and of course, the famous ‘Smallest House in Great Britain’ which is named in The Guinness Book of Records and is attractively located on the harbour side.
One final interesting fact to finish with is that people born
within the town walls of Conwy are known as ‘Jackdaws’ after
the jackdaws that live on and around the walls. A Jackdaw
Society existed up until 2011.
Conwy is an all year round destination with the town, castle and walls being worth a look whatever the time of the year. During the late autumn and winter the crowds will be less but the days shorter and this means it might be that little bit harder to cram all there is to see in one visit. Still, you could always make a weekend of it and stay over! n
Steve Goodier is an outdoor writer and photographer who specialises in North Wales. He has walked and explored all over the world and is the author of 11 walking books with a further two on Snowdonia due to be published shortly.
What to do
Visit Conwy Castle No visit to Conwy is complete without a tour of the town’s famous castle. This magnificent medieval fortress is exceptionally well
preserved – in fact it contains the most intact set of medieval royal apartments in Wales. The high curtain wall and eight lofty towers rise almost as impressively as when they were built more than 700 years ago.
Get Pampered Escape to the beach and relax with a luxurious
treatment at Aberconwy Spa. Whether you’re looking for a couple’s massage, a friends spa day or just some time away from the daily grind,
Aberconwy Spa provides the perfect beachside retreat just minutes from the centre of Conwy.
www.darwinescapes.co.uk
Climb Conwy Mountain
A walk up (and back down!) Conwy Mountain takes about three hours and, while it is a rather strenuous excursion, the views
from the top are nothing less than superb. A leaflet describing the
walk and information about the mountain’s history, geology and wildlife is available to order from Conwy County Borough Council.
Visit the country’s smallest house
The Smallest House in Great Britain can be found nestled amongst a terrace of houses on Conwy’s quayside. You really
can’t miss the smallest house and you’d be crazy not to pop in for a look on your way past. This national treasure measures just 72 inches wide by 122 inches high, and it was occupied right up until May 1900.
Walk the town walls
Conwy’s town walls are a medieval defensive structure which were constructed between 1283 and 1287 after the foundation of Conwy by
Edward I, and were designed to form an integrated system of defence alongside Conwy Castle. Stretching almost uninterrupted around the town, they run for three quarters of a mile, with 21 towers and three
original gateways along their length.
Visit a distillery
If you fancy a bit of a tipple after all that walking, then it’s worth visiting the Penderyn Whisky Distillery in Llandudno. Penderyn recently opened its North Wales distillery, and the shop is now open for business seven days a week. Tours are available daily and can be booked via Penderyn’s website, along with whiskey masterclasses.
www.penderyn.wales
