09. SATSOP LAKES VIA CHURCH CREEK

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Church Creek was not named for a house of worship, but after FredericChurch, a member of Colonel O’Neil’s 1890 Exploratory Trip across theOlympics. Hike this lightly traveled trail through ancient forests of toweringcathedral trees however and you just might have a heavenly experience. Butbe forewarned that the way is rough in spots and involves some steep climbing.Your toil however will be redeemed upon reaching the Satsop Lakes in atranquil verdant basin that teems with wildlife.

Thanks to the Olympia Mountaineers this wonderful trail was saved from fading into oblivion. They adopted it and restored it. From an unimposing trailhead, start hiking immediately entering primeval forest. Cascading Church Creek, audible but not visible, adds a soothing aria to this sanctuary. The trail winds and climbs under a lofty canopy supported by gigantic beams. It comes close to Church Creek on several occasions, but the plummeting waterway remains hidden in a deep lush ravine.

The forest understory is thick and verdant. In early summer, fawn lilies, calypso orchids, and marsh marigolds add additional colors to this emerald world. In August succulent huckleberries are ready for trailside snacking. The trail crosses several small creeks and a decommissioned road. Then through a more open forest it continues climbing to a 3,150-foot divide between the South Fork Skokomish and Satsop Rivers. A humongous hemlock with two pistol-butted limbs stands sentry at the divide.

The trail then rapidly descends passing a pretty cascade fanning into a steep ravine. Giant cedars and Douglas-firs are once again encountered as the trail levels out. In 3.2 miles and after losing 1,000 feet of elevation emerge in a grassy opening housing the largest of the five Satsop Lakes. Keep your eyes on the lake for trout and surfacing rough skinned newts. The lake is home to thousands of the latter. Look too along the forest’s edges for bigger critters.

Notice that there’s no outlet. Water seeps to the Satsop River via a cavernous basalt basin. Four other lakes are hidden in the surrounding forest if you feel inclined to find them. But while the distance to reach them is not great, the terrain can be challenging. The trail continues for another .3 mile through more groves of giant trees ending at Forest Road 2372. Yes, you can reach the lakes via a much shorter hike, but you’d miss most of the grand forest.

Highlights: Solitude, Magnificent old-growth Distance: 6.4 miles round trip Elevation gain: 2,350 feet Difficulty: Difficult Permits: None Hiking Season: June through October Notes: Forest Road 2361 is gated and closed October 1 to April 30 to protect wildlife. You can walk or bike the road (adding 11.2 miles round trip) during this time to trailhead. GPS waypoint: N47 26.928 W123 29.437

Kid-Friendly: No Dog-Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: None Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic Maps: Green Trails Grisdale No. 198, Mt Tebo No. 199 Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles, turning left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Road. Follow for 5.6 miles, bear right at V intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles and bear left at a junction with FR 2353. Then continue on graveled FR 23 for 4.3 miles bearing right onto FR 2361. Drive 3.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2361-600. Proceed 2.2 miles to trailhead located on your 34 right in a hairpin turn.