Elk Lakes Trail

Craig Romano | Author & Photos

Named for one of the Olympic Peninsula’s most majestic animals, the two small Elk Lakes located within the Hamma Hamma River Valley offer quiet wanderings and a chance to see their namesake. The Elk Lakes offer a great alternative to the nearby oft-crowded Lena Lakes. While this hike is short, the lake’s tranquil shoreline and surrounding old-growth forest invite lingering. Bird watching is good as well as fishing for rainbow trout. Rhododendrons add colorful bouquets to the forest in spring, while maples and cottonwoods brighten the forest with golden touches come autumn.

Hit the Trail

You can easily reach the lakes from a short spur off of Forest Road 2480. But I prefer hiking to the lakes following along a remnant of an old trail along Jefferson Creek. This gives you a longer and varied hike and a better appreciation for the area’s rugged landscape and how human activity has greatly impacted it. Reaching the trailhead for this approach however is via a rough road that only high clearance vehicles can negotiate. If that is not an option, you can always park at the beginning of the road and walk FR 2421 for 1.6 miles to the trailhead. The road traverses a recent cut offering excellent views of the Hamma Hamma Valley, making the extra mileage interesting.

The trail begins at a bend in the road and heads into a forest that was recently burned. In the early part of the last century the entire Jefferson Creek Valley was draped in old-growth forest. After World War II and up to the 1990s the area was intensively logged leaving only remnant stands of old-growth forest and just a small stretch of was once a long trail in the Eastern Olympics. But what survived made a delightful short hike in an area often overlooked by many hikers opting instead for the nearby Lena Lakes.

The beautiful old-growth forest remaining around the Elk Lakes almost entirely went up in flames in the Maple Fire of 2018. A group of timber poachers harvesting mature big-leaf maples in the area set the area ablaze when they set fire to a wasp nest in the base of a tree. The fire quickly spread torching 3300 acres and costing $4.5 million to combat. Two of the poachers were ultimately caught, brought to trial and given prison terms. Timber poaching remains a serious problem on the Olympic Peninsula. The Forest Service lacks the staff and resources to address it.

While the fire did some damage to the Elk Lake area, thankfully many of the older trees survived. Unfortunately the fire took a major toll on nearby Jefferson Ridge rendering the trail to its old lookout site nearly impassable now. Such a shame as that trail too offered a quiet alternative to many of the area’s nearby crowded trails.

Head up the trail traversing a dry hillside, several hundred feet above roaring Jefferson Creek. Born in the snowfields of Mount Ellinor and her rugged neighbors; the creek crashes through a steep and narrow canyon here before reaching the Hamma Hamma River. Pass through a mosaic burn on an up and down course before reaching cool old-growth forest.

The way then soon reaches a junction. Heading left will bring you to the upper trailhead. But for this suggested hike, you’ll be returning from that direction, so continue hiking straight through a grove of monster cedars coming to Elk Lake. Depending on the season the lake may be a wet grassy swale or a pretty reflecting pool. Regardless of water level, plenty of birdlife will be present.

Continue along the western shore before wandering along Jefferson Creek through more impressive old growth. The trail then terminates on FR 2401. You can retrace your steps, but I prefer making a loop by following the road left for 0.8 mile to another trail just after crossing Cedar Creek. But before heading down that trail back to Elk Lake, head right 0.2 mile on an oft overlooked and slightly brushy trail to pretty little Upper Elk Lake. This placid body of water offers beautiful reflections of nearby ridges and the surrounding forest.

Once you visit the Upper Lake pick up the trail near Cedar Creek and slightly descend to Elk Lake now hiking along its eastern shoreline. Pass some more big trees and come to a great shoreline area for casting a line or just admiring the area’s beauty. Then reach another junction.

The way right climbs and soon reaches the main trailhead on FR 2401. Continue left, soon crossing Jefferson Creek on large rocks. In spring and other periods of high water this may be difficult forcing you to retreat the way you came for a longer than anticipated hike. Just beyond the crossing reach a familiar junction. Here head right above the crashing creek retuning to your start.

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 7652200, fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Craig Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Then continue west for 6.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2480. Cross the Hamma Hamma River and in 0.2 mile turn right onto unsigned FR 2421 for the Lower Trailhead (high clearance only). Follow this rough road 1.6 miles to a pullout on your left where the road makes a sharp turn right. This is the trailhead. For the Main Trailhead, pass the FR 2421 junction and continue on FR 2480 for 3 more miles. Then turn right onto FR 2401, and proceed 2.5 miles to a spur on your right leading 0.1 to the Main Trailhead. The spur is steep and can be rough. You can park alongside FR 2401 and walk the spur to the trailhead.

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Shuck & Share 5K Walk/Run, October 8

Hundreds of walkers/runners show up each year to participate in the Shuck & Share 5K Walk/Run, which happens on OysterFest Sunday. Proceeds from the race help fund Mason PUD 3’s Project Share program.

Project Share is a customer-funded program helping families in crisis situations who need help paying their electric bills. Through the generosity of donors, more than 300 low-income families are helped each year. As other sources of aid continue to dwindle, more customers rely on Project Share for assistance.

For more than 30 years, Mason PUD 3 customers and employees have generously funded Project Share. The Shuck & Share Walk/Run began in 2014 as a way to raise awareness (and funds) for the program. The run attracts about 200 runners each year and raises approximately $3,000 for the program. Mason PUD 3 employees and local community members volunteer their time to organize the race each year. Success depends upon volunteers and sponsorships. This year’s 5K takes place on October 8 at 8 AM, located at the Huff N’ Puff across from the Shelton High School. It is a nice, flat, 5K loop. You do not need to be a PUD 3 customer to participate, simply donate, or register at www.pud3.org/run.

Save the Date – 9/16 Squaxin Island Museum Water Sounds Auction & dinner

The Squaxin Island Tribe hosts their Water Sounds Native Art Auction & Traditional Dinner, the annual fundraising event of the Squaxin Island Museum Library and Research Center, on Sept. 16.

The event consists of a silent auction, dinner and live auction. Elk, salmon, clams and oysters are amongst the items served at this traditional dinner. Native American dishes and beverages are also sampled, including black moss pudding, camas, wild carrots, various berry juices and teas, fish head and elk stews, fiddleheads and sea asparagus.

The art available for sale is created by local tribal people and Salish artists. The mediums vary but have previously included anything from contemporary blown glass to wood, leather, baskets, prints and regalia. Proceeds will benefit the museum in their continued efforts to educate people about Indigenous Squaxin Island culture and history. Doors open at 4:30 PM at the Skookum Creek Events Center in the Little Creek Casino Resort in Kamilche. Tickets will be available online. For more information about the event, you can contact the museum by calling (360) 432-3839.