Issue 1
EDITOR IN CHIEF ________________ Laura Acosta ART DIRECTOR _________________ Laura Acosta
CONTRIBUTORS _________________ Marta Dymek, Severine Arend.
COVER GIRL ALEX LOLLAND
Knit maxi skirt Obey Sedona. Burgundy top Kathryn Alex. Striped jacket Kathryn Alex. Gloves Stylist’s own. Scarf Stylist’s own. Necklace Aubrey Artz. Model - Alex Lolland, Exalt Agency. Styling by Laura Acosta Photography by Marta Dymek
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Special thanks to Erica Tanov, Veronique AA Lapeyre, Carli Humphries, and Lori Perri. Thank you to Henny Jacobs for copy editing. Thank you to Flore Morton, and Paul Wilner for their guidance throughout editorial-shoots, and editorial content. Thank you to my family for their support. For more information on products, click on the images. For more information on the magazine’s content, e-mail us at lau,notablehands@gmail.com. NOVEMBER 2012
Marta Dymek and Laura Acosta on location for the Harvesting Season shoot. Photo by Kavin Orantes
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NOTABLE HANDS ...the Story I’ve always had a slight obsession with handcrafts and manual work. I was never a stranger to cross-stitching when I was a child, nor was crochet a practice limited to my grandma. I still practice hand knitting on my free time, especially on the holiday breaks. But, after my endeavors in the areas of fashion and knitwear design, I discovered the countless possibilities that these techniques enable, and thankfully there are, every day, more designers who praise manual works, and handmade pieces, as a counter part to the excess of clothing mass production from Asian countries. Notable Hands started with the idea of focusing on niches of designers and companies that work in the name of their crafts, and of artisanal communities’ heritages around the world. There are enough fashion magazines to showcase the newest trends and fashion designers leading the fashion scene, yet there are not enough publications portraying the processes involved in the creation of high-end clothes, and special pieces constructed with the application of millenary techniques. Where is the production of the clothes and accessories we admire based, and what kinds of craftsmen are employed in the ateliers? These are some of the questions that we aim to discuss. What we do for the website and the first issue of Notable Hands magazine is a compilation of stories from the many designers that have inspired us, because of the uniqueness of their products, but also for having decided to keep their business in line to their principles of fair trades, and quality. The products showcased in the trend pages of this magazine are niches of exclusive goods that won’t go out of style in a matter of three months, and have the presence of hands rooted in their look - a trait that cannot be reproduced with chemicals or machines. Another turn I see in fashion, and that is portrayed here with the stories on Mulberry, Hermès and newcomer Maiyet, is the upheaval of the artisan persona, as important as the designers themselves. Brands are now interested in letting their clients and fans know who are the people producing their pieces, and what are the techniques that make those special. We are here to push on those, and on new lines that have made their ways into local boutiques, as well as have you see another side of established designers, such like Berkley based Erica Tanov. She not only loves to have her clothes crafted close to her studio, but also collaborates with artists and artisanal companies around the world. We know how important it is to have notable minds and ideas, but there is no replacement to notable hands when it comes to small and unique luxuries. Enjoy!
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Page 8 --
Page 22 --
About -- “Can Fashion Still Re-invent Itself?”
About -- ““Eribé Knitwear Studio”
Page 10 --
Page 25 --
Notes -- ““We Need to talk About Indigo”
Feature -- “ “Mulberry’s Brilliant Crafts”
Page 12 --
Page 28 --
Profile -- “Erica Tanov”
Trends -- “ ”Spring-Summer 2013 Up Close”
Page 16 --
Page 37 --
Shopping -““At Home We Lounge”
Craft -- “ ”Shupaca Textiles”
Page 18 --
Page 30 --
Style -- ““Cordes Lumineuses”
Editorial -- “ ”Harvest Season”
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NOTABLE HANDS
About
Can FASHION still re-invent itself? by Laura Acosta The fashion industry has grown so much in the last 20 years, to becoming one of the most significant and influential industries, economically and culturally speaking. If anything, there are thousands of people willing to make their careers out of constructing garments, photographing them, writing about collections and buying them for determined department stores. And then we might find ourselves so immersed inside the industry that it becomes difficult to understand what the changes in the last 20 years represent for the future meaning of fashion in our world.
The dynamics of the industry have changed profoundly, as well as the expectations of the critics, buyers and clientele for new products, and opposite looking styles, every season.
So, when someone asks us, “Is there anything new in fashion? Or, has fashion actually changed in the last 20 years?” it would seem rather stupid to say it hasn’t. The dynamics of the industry have changed profoundly, as well as the expectations of the critics, buyers and clientele for new products, and almost opposite looking styles, every season.
What makes it so difficult to understand the storyline of the last two decades, starts with the fact that the fashion in the early Nineties was a reaction to the opulence and theatric dressing of the Eighties – a decade that is actually very easy to recognize in terms of style. Harriet Worsley, author It is often said that of “Decades of Fashion” calls designers are as good as the last decade of the 20th their last collection, and, century the moment when consequently, designers 90s themes - Grunge and Minimalism - Marc Jacobs fashion went “back to basics.” for Perry Ellis 92, Jil Sander 95 MUST bring something new The standouts in the streets to fashion every season. and the runways were now But even the term season is “T-shirts and silk pajama hard to define in an industry pants by New York designer that demands about four Zoran and the purist lines collections a year, in which of Jil Sander.” This reaction production and designing was also a reaction to the cycles overlap more and economic crises of the time, more, ever since. and what stood out were ‘luxury basics,’ or ‘minimal de If a fashion designer luxe clothing.’ Furthermore, reaches a point in their careers avant-garde designers as where they can say they have Anne Demeulemeester, Martin established a proper business, Deconstruction - Yohji Yamamoto FW 95, Alexander McQueen SS 99, Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, among it is in no time that they will others, approached minimalism broad their brand into diffusion lines that stick with the lowest portion of the brand’s DNA, in exchange further with the use on deconstruction, as the for a parcel of the main line’s price. If those are just prime element of their collections. This also meant clothes and business strategies, or new forms of that pieces, or shapes that once were supposed to be a jacket, could now become a skirt or pants fashion, is up for debate. – it broadened the spectrum of fashion and the functionality of it. 8| NOTABLE HANDS | WINTER 2012
For the most part, it can be said that during culture, and fashionable TV shows like Sex and the City, the Nineties the tailored suites remained, however, Gossip Girl, and Mad Men, customers – not only fashion in softer lines and looser silhouettes. Everything leaders – demand new options from the catwalks to seamed oversized, except for the adherence of the markets, nonstop. mini skirts – even in suits – and cropped (mini) tops. It is now common to Designers, editors and fashion leaders are now used to looking at see ready-to-wear the history of humanity and fashion – Couture flourished with the new names of John Galliano, brands adopting cou- when the system used to move much Alexander McQueen and Jean ture techniques into slower –, as well as to iconic fashion house’s heritage for inspirations. For Paul Gaultier, who also proposed their mainstream colsome reason it is refreshing to see new the use of underwear as outerwear. We saw grunge from lections, and mixing versions of little black dresses, safari Marc Jacobs, a collection that is them with high tech jackets and women’s tailoring every season. remembered as an example of synthetic fabrics. the Zeitgeist in the early Nineties; It might seem that we are ‘stuck and celebrity idols like Madonna, on repeat,’ that designers The Spice Girls, and the have done it all already, and movie Clueless might that we have seen every have influenced the shape of clothes and possible establishment of the construction come out on the former trends. runways. Still, there are subtle evidences of innovation in It would be the way designers reinvent impossible to deny that the past and create a new fashion has changed, and exciting future. It is and a lot, in the past now common to see ready20 years, starting to-wear brands adopting with the fact that we couture techniques into their cringe at the glance mainstream collections, and of a Vogue editorial mixing them with high tech of the time, or even Looking at the Past - Comme des Garçons SS 1992, Marc Jacobs synthetic fabrics (Jil Sander, at our own pictures. FW 2012 Louis Vuitton). It is also The proportions seam all wrong, the fabrics are old looking and the colors exciting to see the new generation of American-based a bit dull. The silhouettes were either too loose or designers, such as Proenza Schouler, Joseph Alturazza, oversized, or too mini and body conscious it almost Alexander Wang, and Rodarte taking the reins of fashion by mixing traditional techniques and ethnic references seems vulgar. with new age materials and their own unique vision. But let’s also say that this perception could All in all, It might be much too soon and difficult also change with the blink of a new season. What was palpable in the new millennium is the pluralism to understand what technology and the expanded of trends, a phenomenon that started in the communications of the new millennium will make of previous decade, and grew with the merging of the fashion industry, especially in term of innovative high fashion with fast fashion. Fashion designers not ideas. Maybe we are bombarded with so many that it’s only have their secondary and third lines, but they become more difficult to spot the ones that are thought also collaborate with mass market retailers with the provoking and in-tune with the spirit of our time. Maybe names of H&M, Target, Macys, Unqlo, Topshop and we won’t remember a storyline when we look back more. This brought a new democratization in fashion, at this time in 20 years, but we will see the epitome yet still a delusion of fresh ideas into market friendly of freedom of expression, and the democratization of options. And if we add the obsession with celebrity products. 9| NOTABLE HANDS | WINTER 2012
NOTABLE HANDS
Notes
we need to talk WE about indigo
Dosa - Patchwork Luna Bag
You might think of jeans instantaneously when you read indigo, but the color has so many more connotations, one of them being a history of exclusivity, since blue dyes were so difficult to find before chemical dyes came along. Ancient civilizations like Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece and Rome used indigo dye, and India has always been one of the centers of indigo production. There are many shades of indigo, and it’s actually very tricky to achieve that darkest shade of blue seen in Dosa’s clothes. Christina Kim, founder of Dosa, discovered indigo shades she hadn’t ever seen before, when she was working in Kenya and saw groups of tuareg nomads “dressed in [the] most beautiful dark blues.” Working with a textiles expert in Calcutta, India, Kim studied the properties of indigo, discovering that in order to achieve the darkest shade, the fabric needs to be dipped in indigo dyes 12 separate times, a process that lasts about 12 days. From white the over-dyed blue; you can achieve a full range of i ndigo values. Here is our selection of over-dyed to light indigo cotton clothes and accessories that are will make this ever classic color a classic uniform in your wardrobe.
Dosa - Jennifer shorts
Indivie - Ikat graphic evelope clutch indigo
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Pamela Love horizontal double pyramid ring
DodoCase - handmade ipad case. Juniper Ridge Incense
Dosa - Indigo Cotton Dress
Dosa - Indigo blouse
Small Trade Company Cotton jacket
Tuareg Nomads, Bradshawfoundation.com
Denis Colomb - dewi long tunic, hand woven cashmere and cotton
MulberryAnkle Boots
Anthropologie - Matilde Sofa
Small Trade Company Indigo dipped skirt
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NOTABLE HANDS
Profile
Northern Californian designer, Erica Tanov, talks luxurious clothing, home décor, and craftsmanship by Laura Acosta A young woman stands up from her bed, and paces around a house and gardens with a silk slip dress on, the Lola slip. She wears flip-flops and her hair is loose and tangled. She wears no jewelry, and no make up, yet her beauty exudes from the natural environment. The subtleties of Erica Tanov’s video campaigns are those of her work as a designer. Her eponymous line, Erica Tanov, emanates a sense of comfort and luxury, lounge and urbanity, all within the same language.
Tanov.
The fact is, Tanov not only has created a line, but a lifestyle brand, little by little Erica Tanov, photo by Debra McClinton – it only takes to have a look What is understood about the beauty of Erica Tanov’s inside her flagship stores - each piece uniquely designs is that those are clothes designed to be worn placed in its own way - meticulously decorated and in real life. Her clothes are not meant to be interesting merchandised, enabling customers to enter her world, pieces that force us to work up our minds, in order her home. While her clothes and accessories are sold to understand how they’re supposed to be worn. in plenty of boutiques across the country and Japan, They are all about the fit, according to the defined the designer also showcases products from furniture staples of her line – loose, yet slim shapes, luxurious designers, and collaborates with fine artists in plenty fabrics placed in every day clothes, and details, from of projects, like Emily Payne. (Click to see the video of the precision and delicacy of cut, to embellishments, their newst collaboration). and unique fabric treatments. “I like taking fabrics that This is where our feature leads us – Tanov’s craft, on the face look very luxurious – not something to and attention to every detail of her collection and in wear everyday, and I like to take that and putting it making every piece stellar and unique. For that, she into pieces that you can wear every day!” Said the has collaborated with artisans around the world, and designer, in the ad video for her FW 2011 collection. much of her pieces are made by hand, or close to her Tanov designs for real women, young and mature, studio in Berkeley, California. Tanov is as experienced and she turns them into cool individuals, thanks to in textile design, as she is in cutting innovative designs, her rock n’ roll and fine arts references. “The typical and establishing a style of her own. woman who wears my clothes does appreciate Now, see what she has to say on quality, craftsmanship quality, beautiful fabrics, cares about where the and the handmade pieces she designs. This was our clothing is made, and that it’s made with integrity, conversation: and by people who mostly love what they do,” said 12| NOTABLE HANDS | WINTER 2012
LA: I think everyone that sees your collections, your stores, and your studio will definitely get a sense that you are making very unique pieces – outside the mainstream of fashion – and, at the same time, your designs are very subtle and wearable. You want your clothes to be able to be worn on an everyday basis, and also be made with such attention to detail and quality that they have couturelike feel.
Erica Tanov’s San Francisco store
ET: I don’t think of myself as a “fashion designer” but more as a person who likes to design beautiful clothing and wares for the home.
· How would you define your stance in the fashion industry?
I prefer the · What are the qualities that you are praise original and the most for of your designs? even rustic methods used My designs always begin with the fabric selection. I love designing and combining in creating unusual mixtures of texture, pattern and prints. authentic Great care is taken in the making of each objects of garment. beauty. · What are the specific crafts that are involved in to your clothes and accessories?
Lola Slip
The prints I design are created from original artwork and hand-modified to create a pattern suitable for fabric. Many of the pieces I design require some kind of hand finishing. The accessories I design are hand produced in small quantities in my studio. The sweaters are hand knit in Bolivia by a small group of women. Most the bedding I design is produced in India with ancient block printing methods. The cotton quilts are hand stitched. · Did your own vision as a designer make you want to collaborate with people who praise quality and craftsmanship, over quantity? Collaborating with artists. whether locally or in other countries, is now an important part of what I do. It
Erica Tanov’s 20 years 20 slips book Images courtesy of Erica Tanov
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NOTABLE HANDS makes creating so much interesting and inspiring when working with artisans and artists who share the same excitement and belief for high quality goods. · How did your desire to make handmade pieces begin? Is it more limited to knitwear and jewelry?
Profile
Collaborating with artists. whether locally or in other countries, is now an important part of what I do.
I have always been drawn to handmade objects, cherishing the time, love and attention that would go into the making something. My clothing is not mass-produced so more attention can be spent on each item to some extent. I, of course, do not sew the production clothing but like to have my hand in there during the sample process whenever possible. Creating the accessories is one way of getting back to the roots of what I love-making things with my hands. · Can you tell me about the relationship you have with the manufacturers of your products? The majority of my clothing is made in the San Francisco Bay Area, so we have a close relationship with the people sewing. My production manager spends time in their shops almost daily working closely with them. I have been working with manufactures in other countries for quite a while now, so they have a good idea of what I like and want. My ultimate goal is to travel more and spend time with each manufacturer, working closely and developing new products. I have chosen not to travel extensively 14| NOTABLE HANDS | WINTER 2012
so I can spend more time with my children while they are young. · How did you approach artisans abroad to manufacture your designs? I have found artisans abroad in a variety of ways: word of mouth, meeting artisans at trade shows and developing relationships, introductions from other people in the business etc. · Is it easy to have control over the samples? It’s hit and miss. It takes a while in working with people for them to truly understand what I’m looking for. But it’s well worth taking the time and building these relationships. · Do you collaborate on a regular basis, or only for knitwear, for example, or fall/winter collections?
Holiday 2012
I collaborate whenever I feel inspired to do so. It’s not product or season specific. In countries like Bolivia and Peru, (and many other developing countries) it is common to find artisans and tribes of people practicing their own crafts for hundreds of years. (To me that was normal when I was growing up in Colombia and Brazil). However, their products are not praised as they should, because of their lack of modernity.
A/W 2012
I tremendously praise the work of traditional crafts and that is what I seek. In many countries those ancient crafts are sadly dying. I prefer the original and even rustic methods used in creating authentic objects of beauty.
· What are you working on right now? Springsummer 2013? I just finished the spring/summer 2013 collection, and am now working on pieces and collaborations for autumn 2013.
· How have your collaborations changed or helped some of their businesses? I would like to think my collaborations have helped people earn a living and keep their craft alive. · Are these collaborations important to you on an ethical/personal level? Of course. I’m sure that the fact that you collaborate with artisans has elevated their craft into a more contemporary level. Now a day, having a sweater knitted overseas is as much of a luxury and a handbag crafted in Italy.
From her lookbook images to her store in San Francisco, you get the feeling that no matter how far from each other the collections evolve, Tanov’s designs follow the idea of creating beautiful sights. that look simple to the eyes, that’s the trick. It is nothing but admirable to see a designer evolve and grow, after they have found their place in the fashion map.
· Do you agree? Do you think artisanal products carry that sense of luxury? I do, but I feel any product that is handmade should have a certain sense of luxury no matter where it is made.
Photos via Erica Tanov; store photos by Laura Acosta
Erica Tanov store in the Fillmore District, San Francisco
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NOTABLE HANDS
Shop
At home We Lounge Fashion can be overwhelming sometimes. Whether you work in fashion, or not, you probably always tend to look good when facing the world out in the streets. But what usually happens is that, as soon as one gets home, one turns into a pajama zombie with no sense of style.
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We thought you might feel inspired with this guide, and maybe think of giving a make over to your lounging clothes. These beauties are all handmade, with special histories behind them, and you certainly can count on them lasting long enough to overcome the current fags. 2.
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1. Blanket SHUPACA 2. Hand Knitted Sweater DOSA 3. Top DOSA 4. Flip-flops HAVIANAS Sepecial Collection 5. Sweater JEANETTE AU 6. Patchwork Scarf BUNGALOW 8 7. Arch Necklace ERIN CONSIDINE 8. Lather bag BAGGU 9. Knit cap ERIBÉ 10. Color Blocking sweater SONIA BY SONIA RYKIEL 11. Et knee hi sock ERICA TANOV 12. Lola Slip ERICA TANOV 13. Hand-stitched quilt ERICA TANOV 14. 15. Handmade Leather Sandals RACHEL CORRY 16. Silk slip DOSA 17. Turkish Slippers GRAND BAZAAR
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LIGHT AND JEWELS
CORDES
Lumineuses Photography by Severine AREND Styling by Laura ACOSTA
H&M Rope necklace with pearls and rhinestones. Model Patty Chien Fashion Assistant Henny Jacobs
H&M Rope necklace with pearls and rhinestones. ACT Ropes.
ZARA Chain necklace with crystal beads and rhinestones GILLY HICKS Lace corset
ZARA Tweed jacket. NOIR Rope bracelet with oversized stones and metal accents. MFP Rope necklace with rhinestones.
NOTABLE HANDS
Feature
Practice makes Perfect Introducing Eribé Knitwear Design Studio craft from their homes, in partnership with knitwear design studio, Eribé.
by Laura Acosta Three hand-knitters based in the UK , Beatrice, Margaret and Valerie, prove the all-time saying that practice makes perfect. They learnt their craft as children, when their moms made clothing for soldiers going to war, and they haven’t stop knitting ever since. Recently, these three women were especially chosen to knit the chunkiest and most stylish sweaters and scarves of the fall winter season. Margaret Craik and Valerie Hamilton were personally featured in Mulberry’s Brilliant Britain Guide video, and are part of the 100 handknitters practicing this traditional
Rosemary Eribé at Scotland Week in NYC
Instead of wanting to remain an exclusive company of luxury knitwear products, Eribé focuses on their craft, and the people behind it.
Eribé knitting Kit, and Eribé for Mulberry sweater.
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Eribé Knitwear Design, is not just a link between high-end fashion houses and traditional hand knitters. They are a design studio, and a brand tahta exports their products to more than 15 countries, including retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue, and crafty-chic Anthropologie. Eribé is a small company located in Galashiels, a town located in the Scottish Borders of Scotland. Added with less than ten full-time employees in the studio, aside from student interns, Eribé has grown exponentially when it comes to its influence in the global knitwear industry. The company’s principles of quality and fair trades go along the reputation of this area, well known for its textiles industry. Nurturing a good communication between partners has also been an essential part of their growing as a luxury knitwear company. It’s been more than 25 years
since Rosemary Eribé founded the company. She’s still the creative director with a business vision that goes along with her intimate approach to her partners and clients. “The fashion industry cannot afford to lose their craft. What these women do in their own houses is beautiful and it’s a skill that we are determined will not be lost!” Eribé stated on the latest collaboration with Mulberry. Other high-end clients of Eribé include Pringle of Scotland, Paul Smith and Margaret Howell. Eribé has been awarded with many prizes in the UK, such as the UK Fashion Export Awards for ethical Fashion and Small Business in 2008 and 2009. They’ve also been awarded for their trade and export practices, as more than three quarters of their turnover is exported oversees, while more than 90% of their products are sold under their own label. Eribé is not a regular ready-to-wear brand. Compared to their high-end partners, they focus exclusively on knitwear pieces, ranging from several styles of cardigans and sweaters, including loose cross-body silhouettes, tweed and fairisle versions, hats, gloves, hand-warmers, collars, scarves, etc. Their knitwear is the perfect picture of a stylish man/woman lounging around the house, or layering wool pieces in the winter season. Additionally, their colorful versions (organically dyed) aim to look good on all body types and ages. For the latest fall winter season, Eribé found inspiration
Images courtesy of Eribé and Mulberry
in “the refined simplicity of Nordic style and timeless Bauhaus design.” Hence, the color blocking cardigans, Joseph Albers-esque scarves, and a modernized version of the fishermen fairisle patterns. The line now also carries stationary products like printed papers, and cute hand-knitting kits for new knitwear enthusiasts. What’s exciting about Eribé is that, instead of wanting to remain an exclusive company of luxury knitwear products, the company focuses on their craft, and the people behind it. They are recognized for their heritage techniques, quality and attention to detail in hand-knitted pieces that carry a sense of luxury. Eribé’s designers continue to travel oversees to meet new clients and partners, and stay in tuned with conferences and projects, such as the National Museum of Scotland Wool-tastic! Event, and Scotland Week in New York City this past March. See, it’s all about the people when it comes to Eribé. “There’s not a day that goes by that I don’t knit. I find it very therapeutic,” were Valerie Hamilton’s thoughts on Mulberry’s documentary, “If I don’t have knitting, I go rather berserk.” Like any other craft, there is no satisfaction like taking on a challenge, and seeing a prototype made into a beautiful garment. The results are priceless.
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NOTABLE HANDS
Fashion
Eribé Knitters
‘Spinning a Yarn’
Click on, and watch Eribé’s Margaret Craik and Valerie Hamilton knitting Mulberry’s Automn-Winter-2012 knit staples.
Mulberry - Spinning a Yarn by Mulberry
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Images via Style.com
Mulberry’s
Brilliant Crafts
By Laura Acosta High-end houses have a crucial input in preserving traditional crafts across their home countries, and that of artisanal communities abroad. Artisanal crafters have the advantage of manufacturing unique and unusual products, with no restrictions on quality or creativity which is what luxury labels mostly strive for. Producing cheaper products is not always the answer, whereas, creating products that carry a hand-worked element is the key. On the other hand, partnering with conceptual fashion designers and high-end labels has been an effective way of survival for traditional artisans, whose value relies on the fact that their production is slow and specialized. Partnerships are good advertisements on both sides, since they promote traditional handwork with a contemporary look, which is refreshing when it comes to ready-to-wear fashion. British hand knitters from Eribé landed the craft spotlight during this fall-winter season. After manufacturing a very complicated Mulberry knitwear-pattern of
Aztec-inspired zig-zags using intarsia and fairisle techniques. The project included three pieces; a long scarf, a vest and a sweater, and are apart of the new in-stores collection of the English luxury house. Mulberry not only stands out for their range of it-bags, fresh and bohemian attitude, and fanciful Tim Walker campaigns, but also for their input in showcasing their skilled factory workers. The house’s buzz usually comes from their veryBritish leather pieces, especially handbags. The Daria, the Effie and lately the Alexa, named after British style icon Alexa Chung, as well as the Del Rey, christened after singer Lana Del Rey, are best-selling pieces that get redesigned every season. The freshness of the designs, crafted in a variety of leathers, as well as a huge focus on craftsmanship - which stems from Mulberry’s own factories The Rookery, located in Somerset, as well as the upcoming The Willow - are essential parts of the company’s history and heritage. The specialized artisans, based in The Rookery, have enabled creative director, Emma Hill, to embody her vision into real products, and even win Best Accessories Designer at 2011’s Elle Style Awards. What better way to advertise the Del Rey handbag as Mulberry’s newest icon, than feature the transformation of the original leather and metallic hardware pieces into a structured bag. Del Rey has become quite the iconic muse, which is reflected through the retro and nostalgic references of the bag itself.
Demo by leather expert from The Rookery, in Hong kong
The mini-documentary Del Rey: the Making of a Mulberry Icon is featured at Mulberry’s extention, 23| NOTABLE HANDS | WINTER 2012
NOTABLE HANDS
Fashion
Brilliant Britain, which acts as a guide to promote specialized professionals in the country in association with the UK government’s ‘Creativity is GREAT.’ The video shows the process of manually cutting, sewing, skiving, shaping handles, as well as working with hardware and the brand’s logo. Filmed from The Rookery, the video showcases the close-ups of the bag’s construction and care, to the sound beats of Del Rey’s Summertime Sadness beautifully playing in the background. The Rookery is an important asset to Mulberry, especially because of the company’s commitment to social, cultural and environmental issues. The factory produces about 30% of Mulberry’s total production, and is growing by taking on recent college graduates from the area. An 18-month apprenticeship program was created for those who wish to become part of the new generation of leather artisans. As Brilliant Britain puts it, “A Mulberry bag is only as good as the craftsmanship behind it.” These documentary videos are part of Mulberry’s new endeavor to showcase British craftsmen and women in all creative areas, from design to music, food, architecture and fashion. Mulberry’s Brilliant Britain extends their wings to present their own
leather workers, along with Eribé hand-knitters, and a series of independent designers, whose work entails everything from interior-design pieces made of boiled leather, jewelry crafted with prehistoric Whitby jet, or even neon graphic art. Mulberry is also using their resources and their influential fashion position to become a more interesting, relatable and inspiring brand. For the Harrod’s Brilliant Britain event last October, the house invited Eribé hand knitter Beatrice Minty and designer Katharine Cromie to promote the new $1600 handknitted pieces in store. Their value would certainly make sense after seeing the complicated knitpatterns and variety of yarns used on every single piece. Up next, the company is taking Brilliant Britain oversees, starting in Asia and America in 2013. Until November 18th Mulberry’s Harbor City store in Hong Kong will showcase the work of Eribé and several British artists and designers like, Simon Hasan, Jacqueline Cullen, Miranda Watkins, Bethan Laura Wood, and Chris Brace. As a present to their fans and clients, the brand created a one-day-only leather demonstration from one of The Rookery’s craftsmen, Geoff. Clients get to see and purchase the final product, while having a glimpse of the magic that goes behind it.
Left: Lana Del Rey and Emma Hill at Mulberry’s event Right: Work by jeweler Jacqueline Cullen, and Eribé at BB in Hong Kong.
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Leather craftsmanship at The Rookery
Click on the image, and watch the transformation and process of the Del Rey.
Del Rey: The Making of a Mulberry Icon
Images and Video via Mulberry
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NOTABLE HANDS
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Trends
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1. Dries Van Noten organza crushed flowers on skirt. Silk mousseline crusted with lame and mousselline flowers and beads over organza plaid shirt. 2. Chanel Black chiffon checks, with pearls. Pleated printed silk, stitched vertically and horizontally with colorful threads. 3. Missoni ombrĂŠ knit dress in diagonal lace. Printed and embroidered organza, and patched with paillettes. 4. Alexander McQueen tortoiseshell harness over silk massaged flowers. Psatin corset straps over small lace pleats. 5. Proenza Schouler Crocheted patchwork of laser-cut perforated leather. Hand-woven-stitched skirts of bias-cut photo-prints and black silk.
Images via Style.com
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NOTABLE HANDS
harvest SEASON
Fall arrives to the Northern Californian fields, along with our desire to mix all kinds of textures, from hand-woven fabrics and knitwear, to graphic chevron, and striped pieces. Harvesting fruits in the lower temperatures enables us to layer garments, and put together the most charming mix-and-match combinations.
PHOTOGRAPHY Marta DYMEK STYLING Laura ACOSTA
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Style
Striped skirt KATHRYN ALEX. Plaid shirt ZARA. Stiped wool jacket MADEWELL. Socks HUE.
Polka Dotted Pants JASMINE GONZALES, Striped Dress GUIPING FENG, Chevron Vest TIA TING WU, Polka Prola Dotted Tulle Leggings HEATHER SCHOLL. Knit Hat And Gloves Stylist’s Own.
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Knitwear Skirt OBEY SEDONA. Burgundy Jersey Top KATHRYN ALEX. Striped Jacket KATHRYN ALEX. Knit Gloves Stylist’s Own. Printed Scarf Stylist’s Own. Necklace AUBREY ARTZ.
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Patterned skirt STYLIST’S OWN. Blue knit cape ANTHROPOLOGIE. Jersey under-dress GUIPING FENG, Ochre horse scarf MADEWELL. Polka dotted leggings HEATHER SCHOLL.
Blue Knit Skirt ANTHROPOLOGIE. Striped top DAN ZHAO, Purple Socks HUE. Green Faux Fur Hat VINTAGE. Boots Styliste’s Own. Necklace Stylist’s Own. Assistants Patty Chien and KavinOrantes.
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NOTABLE HANDS
Craft
Shupaca,
Ecuadorian goods from Wooden-looms
by Laura Acosta We might have thought Alpaca was just another kind of wool. But after seeing a Shupaca blanket you would certainly think differently. This soft and silky as cashmere fiber has all the sensitive qualities, plus, it insulates the body from the cold. The Alpaca fiber is one of the most valuable natural fibers. Shupaca’s founders, wife and husband Andrew and Lori Schuster in 2009, both established the brand after meeting with artisanal communities of Incan descendants, during their trip off the beaten path in Ecuador. While in Ecuador, the Schuster’s saw artisanal communities, which have been considered experts for centuries in the art of hand-weaving Alpaca fibers. They also saw a socio-cultural vacuum that had potential to become more than a local business for shawls. Shupaca is a collaboration of designers, artists, entrepreneurs and people that are willing to get involved, and collaborate with local artisans from the Andes Mountains. At the same time, Shupaca is an established fashion brand sold in boutiques like Nest in San Francisco. To add to their great endeavors, Shupaca helps their artisan families, by bringing them to new markets, and growing their business methods, while establishing fair trade practices. Shupaca makes Alpaca twice as attractive, taking advantage of its 22 natural colors, and creating new
shades by dying it with fruit-organic-dyes to create a full spectrum of jewel-tones and neutrals. The handson craftsmanship of Shupaca makes the touch, and feel of these products worth a visit to your own nest. Shupaca offers an assortment of many different cozy and warm duds, from their best-selling blankets to pullover shawls, sweaters, and winter accessories. The most exciting thing about this company – aside form the luxurious apects that come from this soft and durable fiber – is that their products are handwoven in wooden antique looms, only found in traditional textile communities. By using the Alpaca fiber, Shupaca has given Ecuadorian products and heritage, a contemporary look, and introduced them to an engaging international market. Available at Nest. 300 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94115; 415-292-6199.
Images Courtesy of Shupaca
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