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Fat Kiwi

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WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES

Fresh vibrant salads, hearty bacon and egg pie, homemade pork fennel sausage rolls and beautiful vegetarian risotto balls sit beside gigantic slices of cream cheese-iced carrot cake, tempting custard squares and healthy bliss balls in the over-flowing cabinet at the Fat Kiwi in Otorohanga.

SPONGE KISSES I found a gorgeous patty pan tin in a second-hand store and just had to make something in them. This easy, light cupcake type mixture was perfect as the little cakes kept the shape well. Paired with cream and the plum curd they make an impressive afternoon tea treat. If you don’t happen to have a vintage tin, a ginger gem pan is perfect. 75g butter, very soft ½ cup sugar 1 egg 1 cup self-raising flour 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp ground cardamom (optional) ¼ cup milk 200g mascarpone ¾ cup cream Beat the butter, sugar and vanilla until light and pale. Add the egg and mix until well combined. Fold in the dry ingredients along with the milk. Divide the mixture between the 12 patty pans and bake at 180°C for 10–12 minutes. They should be a light golden colour and when you insert a skewer it should come out clean. Whisk the cream and mascarpone together until just thick. Pipe the cream in a circle around the outside of half the kisses and fill the centres with a big spoonful of plum curd. Sandwich with the remaining kisses and serve dusted with icing sugar. The custard squares are made by Yvonne, one of the Fat Kiwi’s bakers, and are something she’s a bit famous for in these parts. Yvonne’s not the only legend around here though, the team behind the Fat Kiwi includes Melanie Simpson who owns the Fat Pigeon, 40ks down the road in Piopio. The Fat Pigeon, now in its 11th year, is legendary. This welcoming cafe with faultless Ozone coffee and a cabinet stacked full of delicious food has been the favoured stop of those travelling through to Taranaki as well as the beating heart of the small town for over a decade. Joining Mel in the Fat Kiwi is Jaimee Poole, who also comes with a long pedigree in the hospitality industry. Mel and Jaimee go way back—Mel grew up with Jaimee’s aunts and uncles and when Mel was managing Bosco’s in Te Kuiti a young 16-year-old Jaimee came to work for her. Jaimee went on to study in Hamilton and found herself working at the likes of The Cook before returning to take over from Mel as manager of Bosco’s, when Mel left to set up Fat Pigeon. “I should have trained as a chef,” says Jaimee as she reels off her CV. Fast forward a few years and the pair were working together again, now at the Fat Pigeon. A conversation with local businessman Alan Buckman about a possible Fat Pigeon in Otorohanga had Mel pondering when Jaimee, on maternity leave with her second child, was having the same thoughts and messaged Mel to lament the lack of places to eat in Otorohanga.

The Fat Kiwi (could there be any other name?) was born. A site was found, the old commercial hotel. “When I saw it, I knew the location was perfect,” says Mel. For those travelling through town from Hamilton or Te Awamutu it might appear tucked out of the way, but a huge proportion of traffic come from Auckland via Pirongia missing the main street of Otorohanga, yet they will now pass the Fat Kiwi.

PLUM AND AMARETTO SEMIFREDDO The perfect summer treat. Make this a few days ahead and impress your guests when you bring this out at the end of the meal. Can’t find or don’t like Amaretto biscuits? Use leftover meringues, making it gluten free too! 3 egg whites ¾ cup sugar ½ cup water 300ml cream 2 cups crushed Amaretto biscuits (available at good food stores like Vetro or Dante’s in Cambridge) ½–1 cup plum puree Put the sugar in a pan with the water and dissolve over a low heat. Boil for 5 minutes or until the mixture reaches 120°C on a cooking thermometer. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, preferably in a stand mixer. With the beaters running, carefully pour the sugar syrup onto the egg whites, whisking until thick. In another bowl, softly whip the cream, then gently fold in the egg whites. Finally, fold in the plum curd and crushed biscuits. Pour into a lined 20x11cm loaf tin lined with cling film. Cover and freeze overnight. The site, although totally transformed now, holds a few memories for Jaimee. “I had my twenty-first here. I met my partner here.” And at one stage her aunty ran the hotel and lived on site. With strong ties to the community and great reputations, there is little wonder the local support has been tremendous. “It’s been amazing,” says Jaimee who, at just five weeks in, doesn’t know where the time has gone. In addition to the fabulous cabinet offering, there is a full menu plus catering options. “I put one post on Facebook about catering,” Jaimee says as she shows me a pile of enquiries, “and I was bombarded.” You’ll also find fresh take home meals in the fridge with a different option each day, from chilli con carne to chicken korma or meatballs and spaghetti. “Jaimee is amazing,” beams Mel. “She is really passionate about food.” In addition to their own offering, the cafe sells an interesting array of goodies, most with a great connection to the area, from the local honey to the art on the walls by Piopio artist Jo Gallagher. The fresh flowers on the tables are grown just up the road, the bread is baked fresh in Hamilton by Volare while the Ozone coffee comes from the other direction in Taranaki. Whatever direction you are coming from make sure you stop at the Fat Kiwi and check them out. Fat Kiwi 10 Te Kanawa Street, Otorohanga

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