7 minute read
Book Review
Stuck Together
WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN
Recipe on Page 72
Sarah’s first book Coming Unstuck was, as she put it, “the outlet I needed to share the experience of the aftermath of my marriage break-up, sharing the recipes I cooked for the friends who listened to me, hugged me and let me fall apart in their living rooms. To show my gratitude to the people who gave me diversion, love and patience until I could gather myself to carry on. I wanted to talk about the process, and my way of showing love through cooking, in the hope that both the recipes and words would resonate with others experiencing similar”.
Long time friend of Sarah’s Jeanette Hayes says, “In Coming Unstuck, Sarah generously and openly shared her heart, her dark times and the healing power of cooking.” Yet, in her now trademark honest way, Sarah says, “Life goes on,” and in this, her new book, Stuck Together, Sarah illustrates how food, like life, is a journey. While food can be a comfort when we are down it is also the centrepiece for our celebrations and memories.
She describes it as “a stuck together papier mâché of reasons to celebrate life. Among these pages are many of my favourite recipes, the dishes I have made during a couple of short-lived dalliances, those I have imagined cooking for a long-term lover, and others that I have whipped up for a multitude of dinners with new and old friends”. “I’m never going to be the poster girl for healthy living,” admits Sarah. “I love chocolate, cheese and whisky way too much for that.” This mix of honesty, true love of food and exceptional talent is one of the reasons I love Sarah Tuck’s work. Yes, I’m putting my hand up as a fan girl. I was very excited when Sarah became editor of Dish magazine and even more so when I heard she had another book out. And Stuck Together doesn’t disappoint. From the gorgeous photography and styling to the handy tips on entertaining friends, this book has a genuine quality about it many lack. There’s a chapter with her all-time favourite recipes from Dish including her gourmet Mac n Cheese and beef cheek and pancetta pies to name but two.
Sarah’s recipes are hearty, inviting but not overly complicated, a formula that has made her such a successful recipe writer and why this book will become well-thumbed in anyone’s collection—mine’s that way already!
Rhubarb, Raspberry and Rose Water Trifle With Pistachio Praline
SERVES 10 ROASTED RHUBARB 800g rhubarb, washed, trimmed, chopped into 5cm lengths 2 tbsp rose water 3 tbsp caster sugar 2 tbsp water 1½ cups fresh raspberries
MASCARPONE CUSTARD 3 eggs, separated 1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 400g mascarpone 200ml cream
ROSE WATER LIQUEUR SYRUP 3/4 cup water 1/3 cup caster sugar 1 tbsp rose water 1/4 cup vanilla Galliano reserved rhubarb juices
PISTACHIO PRALINE 1 tbsp water 1/2 cup caster sugar 1/2 cup pistachios
TO ASSEMBLE 300g trifle sponge 300ml cream Persian fairy floss
Stuck Together, published by From the Kitchen, RRP: $65.00
You will need a big bowl for this one — around 2.5 litre capacity. And yes, it does taste as good as it looks.
For the roasted rhubarb, preheat the oven to 180°C. Put the rhubarb in a roasting pan in a single layer and sprinkle with rose water, sugar and water. Roast for 15–20 minutes until soft but not mushy. Fold through the raspberries and leave to cool in the pan then drain off and reserve the rhubarb juices. For the custard, in a mixer whisk the egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar and vanilla bean paste until really thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Add the mascarpone and beat to combine. In a separate bowl whisk 2 of the egg whites with the remaining 2 tbsp sugar until they hold soft peaks. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the cream.
For the syrup, put the water, sugar and rose water in a small pot and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, remove from the heat and pour into a jug to cool. Once cool, add the vanilla Galliano and the reserved roasted rhubarb juices.
For the pistachio praline, line a small baking tray with baking paper. Whisk the water and sugar together in a medium pot. Cook over a medium heat for a few minutes, whisking as the sugar dissolves, then brush any sugar on the sides of the pan into the water with a pastry brush, and don’t whisk again. The sugar will go through several stages: first it will dissolve, then become white and crystallised, and finally it will start to turn lightly golden and liquid. Gently swirl the pot at this stage to encourage even cooking. Once it is an even light golden colour (similar to honey), pour it out on to the prepared tray and immediately sprinkle with pistachios. It is viciously hot and will continue to darken in colour even once poured. It doesn’t take long to cool, then smash it into large pieces with the end of a wooden spoon or rolling pin and/or blitz in a food processor to your desired texture; from large and chunky to a golden powder.
To assemble, slice the trifle sponge into fingers. Line the base of a bowl with sponge fingers, then spoon over some rose water liqueur syrup. Place a layer of rhubarb and raspberries on top. Plop a layer of mascarpone custard on top and smooth out then repeat with another layer of sponge, syrup, rhubarb and raspberries and custard. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 8 hours or overnight. Just before serving, whip the cream and fully cover the final mascarpone custard layer. Garnish with praline and fairy floss.
In 2012 Gerhard and Henrietta Egger released Volcanic Kitchens which went on to be a best seller and winner of Best Photography Cookbook in New Zealand and a finalist at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.
Eight years on this husband and wife duo have gathered together another collection of recipes that beautifully reflects not just Rotorua’s community but New Zealand. While reflecting the community, this book, (Volcanic Kitchens – A further collection of recipes, stories and photographs) is also giving back, and not just in the sharing and treasuring of our food and traditions, but as a fundraiser for some great local organisations like Rotorua Community Hospice. Inside, along with recipes by celebrities like Wayne (Buck) Shelford, Sam Kane and Sarah Walker, there are those tried and tested dishes from the likes of Honor Vercoe from Owhata Marae and the folk at Rotorua Women’s Health League.
Major events from Matariki to Diwali feature along with the images and stories of those that celebrate these. All this is interspersed with stunning photography by Gerhard that remind us how lucky we are.
Available in all good book shops nationwide or www.volcanickitchens.co.nz Volcanic Kitchens is also being sold in Rotorua as a fundraiser for The Rotorua Community Hospice. To support Hospice please purchase online rotoruahospice.co.nz
SHARED KITCHEN
REAL FOOD FROM SCRATCH
Julie Biuso and her daughter Ilaria launched their website Shared Kitchen a few years ago and this book of the same name puts their best recipes into print. “We’ve put our favourites in here, our ‘best-evers’,” says Julie.
Like their website, the emphasis is on showing how to achieve food that looks as good as the picture—in this case beautifully shot by award winning photographer Manja Wachsmuth. The extensive recipe notes that Shared Kitchen fans have come to love, ingredients alternatives for those less common items, and a seven-page glossary further enhances the book. Shared Kitchen is Julie’s 17th cookbook. Trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London, where she also taught, Julie has cooked for prime ministers, ambassadors and even the late Luciano Pavarotti. Her career has spanned magazines, television and radio as well as her own cook school. Ilaria grew up helping her mother and they clearly share a love of food.
Led by what’s in season, mother and daughter have a way of creating delicious meals with a focus on those you’ll enjoy every day. “This”, Julie says, “is the sort of food we eat most nights and which we love to share with family and friends.”
Shared Kitchen published by Bateman Books, RRP $39.99
FRESHLY MADE CAFE FARE & OZONE COFFEE
