Book Review – Kai

KAI

WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN

To say there was an air of excitement in the Nourish office the day Christall Lowe’s book Kai arrived would be an understatement. Fans of Christall’s work, as one of New Zealand’s best food photographers, we knew this book would be stunning.

I could wax lyrical about the beauty of the images, but what really stands out in this undeniably beautiful book is the voice that shines through. Christall’s love of food is evident, but this is not just food, this is kai. Lauraine Jacobs aptly describes Kai as “made in and of Aotearoa, New Zealand.” While devouring this book, I feel like we are turning over a new page in New Zealand’s food story. Kai is a coming of age, for both Lowe and New Zealand food. For Christall, who normally captures other people’s food, now has her own voice, and what a warm and eloquent one it is. But it is also a coming of age for New Zealand food, which is beginning to have an identity that reflects and celebrates what makes us unique. As a Kiwi, Kai makes me proud! Christall says, “I am not a chef – I am a home cook who is obsessed with flavour and absolutely passionate about capturing the mauri of food.” She describes Kai as “a book about our way of cooking, eating and gathering – whether it be the gathering of kai, or the gathering of people.” For me the section on rēwena will soon be filthy. I’d love to see New Zealanders toss their sourdough out and replace it with rēwena, and if it means I have to lead the charge (with Christall’s expert help of course), I will eat my previous statements about not having time for such faffing around with feeding bugs and so on.

If I wasn’t inspired enough by the rēwena pages, a few pages on is the Condensed Milk Dough Sticks! With similar childhood memories of gobbling spoonfuls of condensed milk straight from the can when Mum wasn’t looking, I concur with Christall that this recipe is genius! And this is where I will leave you to grab your own copy. As you read and cook from the pages of Kai, smile at a memory similar to those shared by Christall. Food truly is the way we can come together.

Kai: Food stories and recipes from my family table, by Christall Lowe, photography by Christall Lowe, published by Bateman Books, RRP $59.99. Available now.

RAW FISH

This is probably my favourite way to eat fresh fish — raw. Well, essentially it appears ‘cooked’, but it’s not done with heat. The acid in the fresh lemon juice ‘cooks’ the fish by reacting with the protein in the flesh — it’s quite remarkable. I have such fond memories of enjoying raw fish at the marae, during hākari (feasts).

SERVES 4

500g boneless, skinless white fish, e.g. tarakihi, trevally, snapper, kahawai cup freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ red onion 1 medium capsicum 2 tomatoes 2 spring onions ½ cup coconut cream 1 tsp salt, or to taste

Dice the fish into 1–2cm cubes, and place in a non-metal bowl. Thoroughly mix in the lemon juice, cover, and leave to chill and ‘marinate’ in the fridge for 1 hour, or until the fish turns an opaque white colour.

Finely chop the red onion, capsicum, tomatoes and spring onions. Once the fish has marinated, mix in the chopped vegetables and coconut cream, and season with salt to taste.

Keep chilled until serving.