French Fare
Like a Virgin
ISSUE NO. 48 WINTER 2022
ISSUE NO. 48 WINTER 2022
Everyday
WAIKATO, NZ WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
FRESH LOCAL FLAVOUR WAIKATO, NZ
“Our lifestyle has never been better!” “We’re so glad we didn’t wait till we got older to move in and enjoy the Tamahere Country Club lifestyle. It has such a community of vibrant people having fun, socialising and looking out for each other in a beautiful, secure environment. We ride the adjacent bike trails together and enjoy the local cafés. It’s a perfect base for our motorhoming but actually, with our spacious entertainer’s house and top-notch village facilities, every day’s a staycation!” Colleen & William McGrory Residents since September 2020
For sales enquiries call Sandy Turner on 0800 82 62 43 or visit our website tamaherecountryclub.co.nz
EDITOR Vicki Ravlich-Horan HEAD DESIGNER Sara Cameron, Minted Design Co. PROOF READER Nikki Crutchley (Crucial Corrections) CONTRIBUTORS Denise Irvine, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Liz French, Lynda Hallinan, Kathy Paterson, Harriet Boucher, Rachel Hart, Fiona Hugues COVER IMAGE Vicki Ravlich-Horan PHOTOGRAPHERS Brydie Thompson, Ashlee DeCaires, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Alex Spodyneiko, Kathy Paterson, Fiona Hugues ISSN 2324-4356 (Print) | ISSN 2324-4364 (Online) ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Vicki Ravlich-Horan vicki@nourishmagazine.co.nz 0210651537
regular 6 7 14 16 47 56 58 62 74 75
Vic’s Picks News In Season Waikato Farmer’s Market Harriet’s How To: Ah Lasagne Herbal Gardening Nutrition Events Marketplace
features
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Everyday Eatery Relishing the Good Life Nourish Earth Shining a Light on Great Design What I Do with Tahini Modern-Day Classics
recipes 12
19 24 27 31 36 39 42 44 50 52 60 64
Chocolate Cake with Chilli and Lime Marmalade Oui, I'm Not French Bake for Ukraine Get Roasted Oh Crumbs Kohlrabi Beef Cheek & Cheese Pie Matariki Dish Espresso to Dessert Harriet's Ultimate Lasagne Like a Virgin Winter Memories And All Things Nice
Expe r t s i n k i t c h e n s a n d i nt e r ior j o i n e r y s o l u t i o n s Treetown Kitchens has traded in Cambridge for over 50 years, with a reputation of designing high quality, custom built kitchens and cabinetry that last. For us, quality comes first.
info@treetownkitchens.co.nz | 07 827 7309 | www.treetownkitchens.co.nz
FOR SALE
93A DEVINE ROAD, TAMAHERE 5
4
3
6
Style and space abound at this beautiful lifestyle property. Nestled in a prime lifestyle pocket you will find a well-appointed five-bedroom, threebathroom family home with generous living areas and great flow. You’ll be impressed as soon as you see the chic home, large shed, flat lawn, and landscaped gardens. To top it all off, there is a new in-ground swimming pool that links via the outdoor living for ease of entertainment. Situated on 1.04 ha (more or less). This property is low maintenance and a lifestyle dream. Zoned for soughtafter schooling, Punnet Cafe and the new Tamahere shopping enclave are within walking distance, along with Te Awa cycle way, making this property a highly desirable option. Phone me today for further information or to arrange a viewing 021 623 550!
ANGELA FINNIGAN BAYLEYS REAL ESTATE AGENT
021 623 550
angela.finnigan@bayleys.co.nz
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ISSUE 48
Here’s to Winter As I sit down to write this the office is filled with all manner of boxes packed with local goodies. These are generous donations for our Pink Ribbon Breakfasts we are co-hosting with Lexus of Hamilton, conveniently held the week this edition is off at the printers. The office is stacked with products because of the overwhelmingly generous community around us, and this is something I am truly grateful for. I’m not sure about you, but the events in Ukraine have really made me take stock of how darn lucky we are. After the last two years of challenges, and more on the horizon, it is very easy to get angry or feel hard done by, that is until you watch what is happening on the other side of the world. On page 24 we look at what we can do to help the humanitarian effort in Ukraine, which can be as simple as baking a cake. Speaking of the other side of the world, on page 19 Fiona Hugues cooks up a veritable French feast just in time for Bastille Day on the 14th of July. Closer to home we celebrate Matariki for the first time as a nation on the 24th of June, which I think is a chance to start forging some wonderful uniquely Kiwi food traditions. Check out my Matariki inspired dish on page 42.
on page 39 I turn slow braised beef cheeks into a gorgeous steak and cheese pie. Wayne Good shares his steamed sago pudding on page 60 and on page 64 Amber Bremner keeps the winter pud theme going with a hit of ginger. If you are talking comfort food, it is hard to go by lasagne! On page 47 Harriet talks us through her extensive lasagne research, resulting in the ultimate lasagne recipe. Also, in this edition we meet Jane and Paul Menneer, the new owners of Peplers. We visit Everyday, the new café at the zoo, and we shake up some dry July cocktails with Craig from Ernest. Enjoy!
Vicki Ravlich-Horan Editor
Winter is undoubtedly about comfort food and have we got you sorted on this front! On page 27 Kathy Paterson gets roasting, and
Look who rose to the challenge and made Harriet’s Cinnamon Buns! We love seeing you enjoying our recipes so remember to tag us on social media and you could win a Nourish subscription.
FACEBOOK-SQUARE instagram @nourishmagazine Juliet Parker
Sue Cromption
Gabrielle de Bruijn
Debs McPherson
Debs McPherson
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Vic's Picks
1.
THE STORE IN CAMBRIDGE Have you popped into The Store in Cambridge yet? Johanna and Eleanor have been adding to their range since moving from St Kilda and the tempting baked goods and ready meals are flying out the door. Make sure you pop in and see for yourself! 92 Alpha Street, Cambridge
POPPYPEACH OPTIONS Angie and the team at POPPYPEACH in Tamahere have been working hard on creating delicious menu items everyone can enjoy. “Our goal was to present a menu that caters to our ‘all eaters are welcome’ concept,” says owner Angie Millar, from gluten free to vegan and keto diets. This includes a homemade gluten free bao bun that is soft and light. “Coeliacs rejoice!” says Angie. The Banoffee Pancake Stack, Angie says, “is next level delicious and it is vegan and gluten free”. Shop 4/65 Devine Road, Tamahere
3.
THE SHACK WINTER SERIES The Shack in Raglan are excited to bring back dinners this winter. One Friday a month they will create a special a la carte menu and welcome guests for a night out at The Shack. These are sure to book out fast so make sure you book! www.theshackraglan.com
4.
NZ WINTER TRUFFLE CLASSES Winter means fresh local NZ Winter Truffles are available. Join me in my kitchen for a small, intimate class (max 8 people) and learn how to cook with treasured truffles. You’ll go home with a full tummy, recipes and your own truffle to cook with. $175pp Sunday 3rd July, 11am www.nourishmagazine.co.nz/shop
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News CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2022 MEYER CHEESE MELT WINNERS For the month of April, Waikato locals put on their stretchy pants as Waikato Food Inc’s popular Meyer Cheese Melt Challenge provided too many tempting toasties to try. Head Judge Kerry Tyack says, “Reading the descriptions of this year’s entries literally made my mouth water. I wanted to try every single one of them.” With judges scores in, it was head judges Denise Irvine and Miel Meyer’s job to decide on the champion. Weave Eatery’s You Had Me At Jalapeno came out on top, taking out the title of 2022 Champions. The judges who scored the dish a 20/20 said, “It was a complete package of staff knowledge and service, its creative presentation, with the wonderful extras of the bloody Mary shot, tempura jalapeno and corn and lime salsa. While these were outstanding attributes the heart of the win was that it was a damn good toastie. And at $19 it was good value for money.” Taking out the People’s Choice award and no surprise to Matamata residents was Redoubt Matamata and their Meyer Slayer, a crispy pork belly toastie with sticky sauce, smoked bacon jam, maasdam Meyer cheese, pickled cucumber and rocket.
SWEET PEA PARTIES CLASSES Sweet Pea Parties launch their cake decorating classes. When they moved into their new store on Rostrevor Street in Hamilton the plan was always to hold classes and now that is finally the case. The dedicated space offers plenty of opportunities from beginner’s classes to kids’ cupcake making parties. To find out more go to www.sweetpeaparties.co.nz/shop-online
GET YOUR TASTEBUDS READY FOR THE GREAT NZ FOOD SHOW Waikato’s favourite food and drink showcase is returning to Claudelands Events Centre, Saturday 16 and Sunday 17 July. The twoday event is set to turn up the heat this winter, thanks to the line-up of cooking demonstrations, delectable edibles and amazing showonly specials. Watch the stars as they entertain you whilst demonstrating their favourite recipes live on stage in the Heathcotes Cooking Theatre. From the simplest of meals to more sophisticated recipes and techniques, learn from your favourite Instagram personalities as they demonstrate and share their knowledge on all things health and wellbeing in the Wholesome Hub. Think nutritionists, wellness warriors and everything in between. If you’re looking for something a little more hands-on, then don’t forget to book one of the exclusive masterclasses in the Volare Masterclass Hub. Along with celebrating the region's local restaurants, cafés and chefs, the show also showcases producers, winemakers and the latest products. www.greatnzfoodshow.co.nz
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Everyday WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
Breakfast this morning is at Everyday Eatery, and it is a beautiful plate of guacamole, fried mushrooms, truffle mushroom puree, poached egg and lots of herbs, layered on sourdough: happily eaten in the brand new café at Hamilton Zoo, at Rotokauri. Everyday is in the zoo’s recently opened entry precinct; the low-slung building, designed by local architects Edwards White, serves the zoo’s retail store and ticket office as well as the café and its adjacent kiosk. The precinct is a shared entry with nearby Waiwhakareke Natural Heritage Park, the city’s unique ecological restoration project. Everyday Eatery sits comfortably in a contemporary, light-filled space. It is the work of the Hamilton hospitality team of Mat Pedley and Maurice Montero (Mr Pickles and Bearded Weasel), Alex Hudson (Wonder Horse), and John Moughan, ex-Mizzoni Pizza. The café’s general manager is Hannah Cho and, keeping things in the hospo family, Hannah’s husband JK Baek is a chef at Mr Pickles.
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Hannah previously worked for Kokāko Coffee in Auckland for almost 10 years and also did front of house shifts at award-winning chef Sid Sahrawat’s restaurant, Sid at The French Café. At Everyday, she and her staff aim to create the best possible experience for customers. The Everyday team, she says, really loves the zoo and wants to add great food and service to the mix. “I love seeing people sit down, relax and enjoying themselves. I love the vibe of hospo, and we will make this a welcoming place.” Mat Pedley says it’s been a pleasure to work with zoo owners Hamilton City Council on the Everyday project. He says the café is designed as a destination eatery, catering to visitors to the 25ha zoo and Waiwhakareke Natural Heritage Park, as well as for the local community and those who just fancy a drive out of town for lunch. Everyday has three different service areas that reflect its unique location: there is the chic main café, with extensive seating inside and out, open to the general public as well as zoo visitors, a kiosk at the rear that is accessed only from inside the zoo, and a small quick-bite unit within the zoo for pies and sausage rolls. If you’re having coffee and a snack at the kiosk, you’ll likely be joined by a crew of friendly peacocks trawling for fancy titbits. Keeping things local, the café interior design is by city company Designwell, branding is by NinetyOne Creative, coffee is Rocket Organic, from the Rocket roastery on Barton Street in the CBD, and bread is from Volare on Kahikatea Drive. There’s also a short but sweet list of New Zealand wines (a liquor licence is pending), Fine & Dandy tea, cold-pressed juice, smoothies, and other cold drinks. Mr Pickles’ head chef and co-owner Maurice Montero has put together Everyday’s all-day breakfast menu. It bears the Pickles’ stamp of quality ingredients and attention to detail; Maurice says it has dishes that he’d like to eat for breakfast himself. “I don’t like weird and pretentious things. I want good bacon and sausages, good bread, and eggs. It just needs to be delicious.” As well as a “big breakfast” with the aforementioned decent bacon, eggs and sausage, there’s another of Maurice’s favourites, the smoked ham hock with chorizo, beans, sourdough croutons, crispy pork belly and sour cream. There’s also a hot-smoked salmon dish, tempura fried fish, sticky pork belly burger, French toast, and more, plus some shared platters (envisaged as a late afternoon go-to). Everyday’s cabinet has plenty of sandwiches, sweet treats and fancy burgers, and there’s a $14 café menu for kids that includes a main
dish, drink, and a cake or fresh fruit skewer. The kiosk in the zoo has fresh savouries and cakes; at the smaller quick-bite unit, Maurice’s made-from-scratch sausage rolls and beef and chicken pies are highly rated. The beef pies start with cross-cut blade, cooked whole for four hours. My breakfast pick, the avocado and mushroom toast, is a winner. Maurice uses a mix of button and oyster mushrooms and the somewhat under-rated button mushrooms add great earthy flavour. As Hannah Cho and her front of house staff welcome people to Everyday, a customer says, “I’m one of your neighbours and I’ve come to have a coffee.” He finds a sunny table on the broad terrace where there are parents with preschoolers heading to the zoo, and it looks like Everyday will quickly find its niche in its community. Everyday Eatery (at the Hamilton Zoo) 183 Brymer Road, Rotokauri, Hamilton www.everydayeatery.co.nz Denise Irvine Denise Irvine is a born-and-bred Waikato journalist and foodwriter. Her work frequently showcases the region's talented chefs and food producers; she says we have the best of the best here.
NZ’S
LARGEST RANGE
Of party & cake decorating supplies!
FIND US
on the corner of Rostrevor & Harwood Streets, Hamilton.
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Relishing the
Good Life WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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It is a testing time at Peplers Fine Foods, in the nicest possible way. The Te Kauwhata condiment company is trialling some new products, and this morning they’re lined up on the front counter for a run through. There are three vinaigrettes and two pastes, five helpings of flavour and deliciousness.
factory as they develop new flavours alongside the tried-and-true of the Peplers brand.
Peplers’ owners Jane and Paul Menneer are at the helm, talking about the contents of the bottles and pottles. They’ve tested about 20 new vinaigrettes in the factory recently, and three have risen to the top: kiwi and lime, boysenberry and vanilla, and orange and date.
In 2007, the Peplers sold to their niece, the late Belinda Cox, and her husband Tony. Tony ran Peplers for a few years after Belinda’s death, and then sold to Paul and Jane.
Jane says the boysenberry and vanilla would be a perfect partner with duck or venison; orange and date with a tray-bake of fresh fennel, chicken and kumara; and they are pleased with the citrusy flavours of the kiwi and lime combo. “We’ll let them age for a bit and have another look,” says Paul. Likewise, they’ve had a sound result with two pastes, feijoa and ginger, and pear and mustard. Paul says they’ve been trying for years to make a pear and mustard paste similar to one they enjoyed while on holiday in Italy. With this latest batch, a lovely honeycoloured mix of heat and sweet, they think they’ve nailed it. “It is great with cheese and it would also work with roast pork, replacing apple sauce,” says Paul, as he dips into the pottle. “I could eat it with anything; it has been so pleasurable to recreate it.” Paul and Jane bought Te Kauwhata’s much-loved Peplers business late last year, in a carefully considered switch from corporate to condiments. Paul previously had a global finance role with an American corporation and Jane worked part-time for Waipa District Council on digital business support projects. She was also chief condiment maker for the Cambridge Picklery sideline she and Paul started in 2017, selling their artisan “small batch, big flavour” chutneys and relishes at Cambridge Farmers’ Market. Peplers is their next-level step, operating under their recently formed Savour the Taste company, and they’re doing a daily commute from their Cambridge home to their North Waikato
Peplers has a unique history, its good quality condiments known way beyond its Te Kauwhata base. It was started in the early 1980s by local couple June and Colin Pepler as an outlet for excess fruit from their orchard. June began making jams from her home and as these gained a following she expanded to premises on Te Kauwhata’s main street, where the business remains today.
Peplers seemed a perfect fit with Jane and Paul’s Cambridge Picklery products and with their huge fondness of good food. They’ve lived overseas for long periods with their two children, first in Switzerland and later in the US, in South Carolina, learning much about the culinary essence of both places. In South Carolina they experimented with chillis, in Europe they embraced the slow-food movement, and the pleasure of long, leisurely gatherings around their dinner table. Nowadays at Peplers, Jane oversees kitchen operations and Paul is on the commercial side. They batch-make about 100 different condiments, including those sold under their own Peplers and Cuisine Scene labels, and they also do contract manufacturing for other firms. Cambridge Picklery has its own niche (and website) as an innovative brand that pushes the boundaries with big flavours for people who perhaps enjoy the work of international chefs such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Heston Blumenthal. Jane and Paul are currently reviewing each Peplers product with their six staff members, looking to tweak, keep and cull and add new flavours such as the vinaigrettes and pastes on trial. They’re keen to explore Middle Eastern spices; whenever they eat something interesting and appealing, they think, “What can we do with this?” Peplers’ top-sellers (available at specialty stories and some supermarkets) include fruity vinaigrettes such as Black Raspberry,
2B GORDONTON RD, HAMILTON (NEXT TO THE WAYWARD PIGEON) 07 855 3573 | BOOK ONLINE WWW.MOUSEYBROWN.CO.NZ
PRECISION CUTTING & PROFESSIONAL COLOURS
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Chocolate Cake
with Orange & Chilli Marmalade This beautifully moist chocolate cake is a wonderful partner to Jane and Paul's Orange and Chilli marmalade which beautifully balances the sweetness and gives you a jaffa hit with a twist.
¾ cup flour 2 cups sugar ¾ cup cocoa 1½ tsp baking powder 1½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 3 eggs 1 cup Greek yoghurt ½ cup oil 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cup strong coffee Approx. 1 cup mascarpone 1 jar of the Cambridge Picklery’s Orange & Chilli Marmalade Place all the dry ingredients into a bowl and mix well. Add the eggs, yoghurt, oil and vanilla and mix with an electric beater on medium for 2 minutes until smooth. Finally stir in the hot coffee. Pour the batter into a greased 21cm round cake tin and bake at 165°C for approximately 1 hour or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Note: The batter will be very thin which causes problems if you are using a spring form tin. If you don’t have a cake tin with a solid base you will need to line the outside of the tin with a couple of layers of tin foil to stop the batter from oozing out. As insurance I would also put the cake tin on an oven tray just in case. Once cooled top with mascarpone and then a jar of The Cambridge Picklery’s Orange & Chilli Marmalade which is a gorgeous take on marmalade with a spicy hit. We’re told it’s equally delicious with chicken and fish.
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Black Doris, Tamarillo, and Pomegranate, and there is also a wide range of jellies, jams, chutneys, dessert sauces, and more. Peplers largely uses Waikato-grown fruits and vegetables, bought in-season and frozen to maintain year-round supply. Paul says they hate to see trees groaning with unwanted fruit, and they’re happy to take suitable excess from people. Recently they’ve spent a day with their staff picking quinces and crab apples at a Te Kauwhata property. “It was also a great opportunity to share ideas and build team relationships,” he says. “We’re involving our team in all our trials and tastings.” This morning, the quinces and crab apples are being prepped in the factory kitchen ahead of freezing, and in the adjacent hot cook section staff members Kathy Pengelly and Carol Cottam are making the aromatic Peplers Aubergine and Chilli Chutney and Cambridge Picklery’s Tomato and Chilli chutney. Kathy and Carol started in the factory under original owner June Pepler; they’re cooking today but they multi-task in all aspects of the business. “They are a huge repository of Peplers’ knowledge,” says Jane. Jane and Paul are now aiming for a release in spring of new products, new branding and messaging, and a makeover at the front of their premises to incorporate an artisan food store where customers can try condiments before they buy. They will also showcase other foods from the region. “We want to be known nationwide as innovators.” www.peplers.co.nz www.cambridgepicklery.co.nz
Peplers' Harissa roasted Cauliflower
Mix cauliflower florets with one part Peplers Harissa paste with two parts natural yoghurt. Bake at 180°c for 30-45 minutes or until golden brown.
Not your ordinary food store
122 Rostrevor Street, Hamilton 07 974 0415 vetro.co.nz Follow us on
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In Season - Winter WORDS GUS TISSINK
Bidfresh 2 the Waikato! PROUD SUPPORTERS OF
We seem to be bombarded with messaging about the cost of living skyrocketing at the moment. Add to this the usual stories media will tout out in the height of winter about the cost of tomatoes and fresh produce gets a bad rap. The truth is fresh New Zealand produce still is your answer to saving money this winter. John Murphy, Grower and Chair of Vegetables New Zealand Inc., says, “There’s been a lot of talk about pricing challenges facing all local industries, and horticulture is no exception. April was a particularly difficult period as damage from Cyclone Fili in eastern growing regions hit at the same time as fuel and fertiliser shortages and price increases due to the war in Ukraine.” Jerry Prendergast, President of United Fresh New Zealand Incorporated, agrees prices are improving. “The good news is there are always measures shoppers can take to keep their budget in check. Top of the list would have to be buy in season. The freshest vegetables that are at the height of their season and in plentiful supply will usually be the most affordable option, and they’re full of immunity boosting antioxidants.” Nationwide, our fruit and vegetable growers continue to be hit with rising costs, compliance and labour shortages. Seasonal crops aren’t an exact science either, with the threat of weather events causing price fluctuations, especially in the winter months. But fruit and vegetables still represent the best value food options, not to mention the healthiest. Even if cauliflower is at $5.50 each or more, it’s still likely to feed a family of four over a couple of meals. My advice to the home shopper is the same I would suggest to our chefs – be flexible and ensure you are enjoying what is in season. You can’t beat a beautiful Brussels sprout or heart warming butternut pumpkin in the winter months. I encourage you to look at winter as every other season and to revel in what really is wonderful during the winter months. Here are a few of my top picks. Tamarillo – Both in ruby red and a golden yellow, tamarillos are high in vitamin C and a great New Zealand grown fruit that is delicious poached or added to cakes, loaves, muffins and even a curry! Swede – Go beyond mash with this hardy root vegetable. Seasoned and roasted, it has a meaty texture, making it a wonderful meat-free meal option. Persimmon – Available from late May to July, persimmon can add a pop of colour and sweetness in both savoury and sweet dishes. They can be enjoyed simply sliced when they are firmer and paired with your favourite cheese.
Jerusalem Artichokes – Turn them into a silky soup or puree, chip, fry or pickle. Available from May– August. Celeriac – Like the Jerusalem artichoke the celeriac makes a delicious soup or puree, and it is also wonderful roasted and mashed or serve it raw as remoulade for a fresh addition to a dish. Fennel – Pairs beautifully with other winter produce like Brussels sprouts, cabbage, apples and kale. Add it to slaws for a wonderful winter salad. For the more adventurous try fennel raw, thinly sliced with shallots, Italian parsley, capers and dressed with EVOO and lemon juice. This goes particularly well with fattier meats. NZ Winter Truffles – A treat for the winter months, only being available form late May to late July. While truffles may be expensive, they love simple food. Elevate scrambled eggs or a simple risotto with some freshly shaved truffle and you’ll be in food heaven. The other great advantage of buying more in season fresh produce – you are supporting local. Our farmers and growers work hard in all weather to ensure there is a bountiful crop for Kiwis. We need to support them to ensure this is always the case.
Gus Tissink Gus is our resident vegie guy. Like most of our best chefs in the region, when we need beautiful produce, Gus and his team at Bidfresh Hamilton is where we turn.
Call us for the best in season, local produce CONTACT GUS TISSINK
0800 346 3366 | 027 241 3090 | gus.tissink@bidfood.co.nz
CERTIFIED GOODNESS AT THE MARKET WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES ALEX SPODYNEIKO
Nothing prepares you for Earth Stewards Urban Farm in suburban Rototuna. You drive past pleasant houses and trim gardens and then there is Earth Stewards, a small but perfectly formed oasis of fresh produce – courgettes, kale, lettuce, butternuts, cavolo nero and the like – in an unexpected place. This Hamilton property offers an organic “farm to table” array of vegetables from 1.3ha of lovingly cared for land. Earth Stewards is a regular at Waikato Farmer’s Markets, held on Saturdays in Cambridge, at Victoria Square, and Sundays at Claudelands Events Centre; it is among many market stallholders practising authentic, sustainable methods of production, treading as lightly as possible on the planet. Waikato Farmer’s Markets administrator Kathryn Hunter says most stallholders are spray-free or organic, and such practices are scrutinised before newcomers are taken on board. “Our customers love to know where their food comes from and how it is grown.” So, today, a snapshot of four stallholders and their growing styles. Earth Stewards Urban Farm, Rototuna, was developed three years ago by Warwick and Clare Hutchinson, on the property where they earlier established the Waikato Waldorf School and later added Kowhai Childcare. The urban farm grew out of the Hutchinsons’ goal of making
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more food available for their community. They plant and eat with the seasons, there is a mix of outdoor vegetable beds and tunnel houses, and the farm has its own bore for irrigation. As well as selling at the farmer’s markets, there is online ordering, annual subscription boxes, and a farm shop that opens on Tuesday afternoons. Earth Stewards is a certified organic operation under the auspices of Organic Farming NZ (OFNZ), an organisation founded 20 years ago for small organic farms supplying the domestic market. It operates on a peer review system among communities of growers; Warwick says it as an excellent system of like-minded growers supporting each other, sharing information and building good relationships. “We always intended to be organic (at Earth Stewards), it is the way of the future. We are practising regenerative agriculture, and we look after our land as guardians, to hand on to future generations.” Regenerative agriculture embraces methods that build nutrientrich soils and resilient natural systems, with healthy soil being the key to healthy plants. In this little corner of Rototuna, they’re blessed with an excellent growing medium of a light, loamy soil. It is treated with utmost respect by Earth Stewards’ head gardener Coral Remiro and her team of three, Georgia Hamilton, Lena Treml and Alex Dunn. Weeds are removed by hand (no chemicals or pesticides are used). Earth Stewards practises poly-cropping, integrating and interplanting different vegetables, high and low species, spreading and
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compact, to cover as much of the ground as possible and thus prevent weed growth. The poly-cropping premise (apart from minimising weeds) is that the wider variety of plants in the same area encourages a wider variety of beneficial microorganisms in the soil and greater opportunities for natural nutrition. Says Coral: “We have cycles of planting, harvesting, removing spent plants, composting, planting cover crops, and starting again. We don’t use fertilisers to feed our soil, we rely on compost (made on site), plus natural microbiotic communities, and kelp. “We also have an important practice of no tilling, no unnecessary disturbance of the soil. Seedlings are planted with minimum disturbance to ensure healthy soil and plants.” The results being fresh, seasonal vegetables for Earth Stewards’ community, market customers and more, just as founders Warwick and Clare Hutchinson envisaged. Tender Fresh Produce is another market stalwart, the “growing” business of Teresa and Philip Linehan, on their 3.2ha property at Te Kawa, south of Te Awamutu. The Linehans started as seasonal stallholders, selling sweetcorn each summer, and then potatoes. About two years ago, Teresa began planting a wider variety of vegetables and flowers for the markets and nowadays she is a yearrounder with extras such as lettuce, butternuts, broccoli, cabbage, chillis, and bouquets of fresh flowers. She has about .4ha planted in different vegetables and flowers, the same amount of land for potatoes, and the rest is dedicated to their core business of sweetcorn.
Teresa, who is the new chair of Waikato Farmer’s Markets, looks after the diversified veggie range herself and is a self-described “neglectful gardener”. In a good way! “If my vegetables thrive on neglect, I let them be. I don’t have time to fuss over them. Brassicas are so good for this (the no-fuss method), they look after themselves. I grow great broccoli.” She uses natural products to control insect pests, “no bad chemicals”, plants marigolds as beneficial companions for brassicas, and sometimes is content to just leave the insects be. They look after their excellent Waikato soil at Tender Fresh and practise rotational cropping, a cycle whereby a paddock is rested for a season, grazed by their cattle, and then prepared again for cultivation. Teresa says the cattle are also handy for eating leftover vegetables. "They love broccoli and corn.”
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Rivendell Gardens lies conveniently between Cambridge and Hamilton, supplying both markets with fresh vegetables and fragrant feijoas (in season). Rivendell was founded in the mid1980s by Dutch immigrants Johan and Miriam van der Gaag and nowadays it is run by their daughter Marlies Clemens and her husband Caleb Clemens. The 2ha property has 500 feijoa trees and 1000 sqm of greenhouses. The greenhouse vegetables are grown in a semi-hydroponic system that aims for healthy crops and an environmentally friendly system that is free of chemical sprays. Marlies says plants are grown in pots, two to a pot, in a medium of ground pumice. There are 3,000 pots, 6,000 plants, all carefully watered and monitored. Excess water (that drips through the pots) is collected, tested for salinity, and recycled in the irrigation system. “It is a closed system. Nothing gets into the water table; we don’t want to change our environment.” Small amounts of natural nutrients are added to the water when necessary, according to Rivendell’s own recipe, and this is kept as simple as possible. The greenhouses produce a wide range of vegetables, including large tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, courgettes, capsicums, scallopini, Hungarian heritage beans, kohlrabi, and hot peppers for Caleb’s much-loved hot sauces. Marlies says their vegetables have big flavours; tomatoes are left to ripen on the vine and are picked at their optimum the day before the markets. “They are ripe and perfect.” Nothing is wasted at Rivendell. For example, when the greenhouse pots need replacing after a few years, the pumice is put to good use
on the property. Recently some of it has taken on a new life as a path. Suncakes Gardens, at Whatawhata, is the well nurtured property of David Ruan and his family. Each weekend the pickings from their 4ha plantings feed shoppers at the Cambridge and Hamilton markets, who load up with bok choy, carrots, courgettes, beans, spinach, kale, and other seasonal produce. David is committed to organic gardening at Suncakes and is working towards certification with the internationally recognised BioGro organisation, New Zealand’s largest and best-known certifier of organic produce and products. He is following BioGro’s strict requirements around all aspects of his work, including seeds, fertilisers and other materials, and he hopes that Suncakes will be fully certified by May next year. “The BioGro standards ensure fresh, healthy produce,” he says. “It is good for people, it is sustainable, and environmentally friendly.” David came to New Zealand in 2003 from South China. He has an agricultural science degree, and he previously grew vegetables in South Auckland before finding the perfect spot for Suncakes at Whatawhata in 2015. “The land was very flat, it had very good soil, and a temperate climate.” His vegetables are grown with the seasons, in a year-round cycle, and are planted and picked by hand. His key helpers are his wife and children. David loves being part of Waikato Farmer’s Market: “We have good relationships with our lovely customers, and good complementary relationships with other stallholders.”
Every weekend 8 am- midday S AT U R D AY Cambridge Farmers' Market Victoria Square
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S U N DAY Hamilton Farmers' Market
The Barn, Claudelands Events Centre
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Oui … I’m Not French WORDS AND IMAGES BY FIONA HUGUES
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POULET VALLÉE D’AUGE
FANCY BAKED CHICKEN LEGS WITH APPLEY CREAM SAUCE Au contraire! But after 25 years (or so) cohabitating with a bona fide, born and raised in a small village outside of Paris Frenchman, I think I have endured the right to share my stylist’s version of what is in fact, Frenchy and chic. To condense this gourmand saga, my Parisian husband swept me off my Antipodean feet over two decades ago and we’ve battled on the multicultural marital fields of taste ever since. Initially, I wouldn’t hesitate to crawl over hot coals to get to a piece of Vogel’s bread slathered in Vegemite whilst abroad, while he would rather burst into flames. He would happily devour cheese that smelt like the rancid nether regions of my childhood stud angora goat than get anywhere near a block of cheddar, all whilst I politely tried not to gag. Beloved spaghetti in a tin and celebratory iced fruit cakes were an apparent scourge on cuisine and became definite no-go areas. Fast forward a couple of decades, and he’ll say he’s educated me out of my naïve palate, and I’m pleased to say, quite possibly so. Through apparent cross-cultural coupling osmosis, I now happily eat all manner of offal led kitchen creations, prefer my steaks medium rare than leathered and well dead, and surprisingly hanker for savoury fromage at the end of a meal, including said cheeses that can summon blowflies from a mile away. (A French tip – A small vase of fresh mint on your table will help keep insects at bay.) All this said, I’ve learned and conjured some tricks masquerading as a good French wife and have received a fair few pleasingly raised eyebrows from sceptical Parisian in-laws seated at my table as they greedily devoured my versions of their beloved dishes. These are my simplified renditions of some traditional French winter recipes that I make often, easy to prepare but still fancy as a French ‘ahem’, so you too, like me, can have a little dining je ne c’est quoi.
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In winter I adore cooking chooks with apples, it makes up for the lack of abundant summer fruit in my salads. This is my high rotation creamy chicken dish, a knock off of a Normandy classic: boozy, rich and decadent, simple to make but still très très chic.
6–8 large free range chicken legs 6 apples, two sliced into 2mm thick rounds, two chopped into fine dice, two left whole. 100ml cider, brandy or cognac olive oil 25g butter 2 medium brown onions, sliced 1 tbsp flour 1 cup good chicken stock 200g crème fraîche salt & pepper The night before, season the chicken legs and place in a zip lock bag with the cider/brandy/cognac. Refrigerate. Reserving the liquid, pat the chicken dry and lay the marinated chicken pieces on a lined tray. Place the two whole apples in between them. Drizzle the lot with a little olive oil, season and bake at 180C for 30–35 mins. While the chicken is roasting, fry all the apple slices in a little olive oil until golden and set aside. In the same pan, add the butter and fry the onions and diced apple until softened. Sprinkle over the flour, stir to combine then add the boozy chicken liquid and the stock. Simmer until the sauce is reduced. Stir through the crème fraîche to make a rich creamy sauce. To plate, smear a little of the oniony sauce on your platter and place the chicken legs on top. Arrange the cooked apples and slices around them. Spoon over the rest of the oniony apple sauce. Serve with plenty of baguette to mop up the juices.
PETIT GÂTEAU AUX POMMES DE TERRE MY BOUGIE SPUDS
If you’re looking to impress your guests, these little potato cakes will definitely get you a few ooh la la’s. Again, a super simple recipe but stylishly put together, much like a cashmere sweater knotted across one’s shoulders whilst meandering the Seine on a chilly Paris day. I make mine in 10cm springform cake tins you can find at K-Mart, but large muffin tins work too. These can easily be made the day before and heated up the next day.
TO MAKE 6 LITTLE CAKES
small waxy potatoes, sliced thinly (I use a mandolin) 1 clove garlic, crushed fresh thyme sprigs 150–200g butter, melted Grease and line the bases of your tins with discs of baking paper.
Melt the butter and stir in the crushed garlic and a little black pepper. Brush a little garlicky butter on the inside of your tins and place a couple of thyme sprigs in the base of each one. Layer the thinly sliced potatoes in a circular pattern to cover the bottom. Brush with a little more butter every couple of layers. Continue layering until you’ve filled your tins 4cm deep. Press down gently, cover the tops with tinfoil and bake in a 170°C oven for around 30 minutes or until soft when tested with a knife. Remove the foil and when cool enough to handle flip the little potato cakes out of their tins onto a lined baking tray, so the thyme sprigs are now on the top. You can cover and put these aside until the next day or heat in a 190°C oven until crisp and golden on the top to serve.
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PETIT ROASTED BEETS WITH HERBY CRÈME FRAÎCHE
This bright, earthy concoction isn’t particularly historically French but it’s definitely posh. I like it at this time of year as it’s great as a simple seasonal dish on its own with a sliced baguette or as a side to a main meal. It looks fabulously frivolous on a winter table and the sweet roasted beets and crunchy hazelnuts team beautifully with the tart zingy cream.
8–10 small/med chioggia and golden baby beets, some sliced and some wedged 2 tbsp Champagne vinegar or good white wine vinegar (available from La Cave or Vetro) 1 tsp runny honey 1 tsp Dijon mustard 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve ½ clove garlic, crushed ½ cup thick Greek yoghurt ½ cup crème fraîche a decent handful of dill, chopped ¼ cup roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped/ crushed Make a rough vinaigrette by mixing together the honey, Champagne vinegar/white wine vinegar, mustard and olive oil. Season to taste. Set aside so the flavours get to know each other.
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Preheat your oven to 180°C and lay the cut beets on a lined baking tray. Toss to coat in a little olive oil, season and roast until tender, around 35–40 minutes. Mix together the garlic, crème fraîche, yoghurt and dill. Taste to check seasoning. Spread this herbed cream on a platter. Place the warm beets in a bowl and pour over the vinaigrette. Thoroughly toss to coat. Arrange the dressed roasted beets on top of the herbed cream. Sprinkle over more chopped dill and the crushed hazelnuts. Finish with a decent drizzle of olive oil.
MY FRENCHMAN’S FAIRLY GOOD LEEKS
In the past I’ve never really rated leeks, putting them down to only being good for fart-inducing dowdy soup recipes. My husband changed all that with this sneaky little dish which transforms this seemingly dull veg into something rather smashing, especially when nonchalantly nestled next to a perfectly cooked steak.
2 medium leeks with the white and light green parts cut into 5 cm pieces (don’t use the thick dark green bits) 3 tbsp butter /3 cup vermouth, white wine or vincotto
1
a sprinkle of shaved Parmesan a sprig of fresh chervil, roughly chopped (or use chopped chives or parsley) salt & pepper
Looking for a great wine match for your French feast? Brigid from La Cave is guaranteed to have the perfect drop. For Fiona’s Poulet Vallee D’Auge she recommends the Haut Medoc La Cave D’Augustin Florent 2015, a Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot blend from Bordeaux region is a medium bodied, dry, easy to drink drop. www.lacave.co.nz
In a fry pan over medium heat melt the butter. Nestle in the cut leeks so they stand up. Slosh in the booze you’ve chosen, season with salt and pepper and place on the lid. Turn down the heat and cook for 15 minutes. Using tongs carefully turn the leeks over and continue to cook until they are tender (around a further 15 minutes). Take the lid off to further reduce the liquid if necessary. Gently lift the cooked leeks onto a plate, pour over the buttery cooking liquid and sprinkle with Parmesan and herbs while still hot.
EPINARDS A LA CRÈME SPINACH PUREE
After a while eating French food, you’ll work out that pretty much all the classic winter vegetable dishes taste divine because they’re either A. full of butter or B. full of cream. This one, my friends, is full of both, but once you’ve tried it you’ll not give a care and like me just be pleased you’re getting your daily dose of iron.
500g bag of frozen chopped spinach a good handful of fresh baby spinach 2 tbsp butter ½ cup or more crème fraîche salt & pepper Melt butter in a saucepan over medium low heat and add the frozen spinach. Season with salt
and plenty of pepper and stir until the spinach has thawed and it is bubbling hot. Add the crème vice fraîche and stir to combine. Throw in the fresh spinach leaves and stir to wilt. Taste, add more ain, silver) crème fraîche if needed (don’t be shy here) and season again. e furniture w furniture
Fiona Hugues Award winning food stylist, designer & creative multi-hyphenate Fiona Hugues spent her childhood gallivanting around the Waikato countryside on horse back. After Hillcrest High School, Elam School of Fine Arts took her to Auckland where she has lived ever since and now resides on a rural property with her French husband, their three children & a plethora of animals. She’s an entertaining expert, sourdough coach, art director and gourmand and it’s said in dire circumstances she would possibly trade one of her children for a bottle of Pinot Grigio & a good burrata.
DISCOVER NEW TREASURES AT OUR ANTIQUE BARN Eclectic porcelain and silver treasures Antique, French and vintage furniture Designers Guild & David Shaw furniture In home interior design service
128 Whitikahu Rd Gordonton (just past Woodlands) Open Thurs-Sun 10am - 4pm www.arkanda.co.nz
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Bake for Ukraine INTRO VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
As we watch events unfold in Europe and the plight of Ukrainians, it’s hard not to feel helpless, but you can help. Sarah Stuart-Black, Secretary General at New Zealand Red Cross, says, “The situation in Ukraine has really touched Kiwis, who have generously supported our appeal. However, there is still so much to do and so many who need help. Donations are being used for practical support to alleviate suffering and give hope, and we sincerely thank everyone for their support.”
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Ukrainian Kiwi Olena Williams is based in Taranaki and has started a Facebook page (@vigilforukraine) highlighting some of the amazing things people are doing from local artists auctioning work for Ukraine to bake sales and even local schools performing the unofficial antiwar anthem – Oi U Luzi. Good George sold out of their Piss Off Putin vodka and raised $50,000 for the Red Cross in the process. Ukrainians Alina Dresker and Anna Fletcher have been living in Hamilton for five years and say the support from Hamiltonians has been heartwarming. People, the pair say, wanted to help but didn't know how, and so they came up with a bake sale. They have held two at the Hamilton Farmer’s Market with the goods (including honey cake) baked by the Ukrainian community as well as those from Belarus, Kazakhstan and Russia. They have raised a whopping $10,000 so far! Kiwis wishing to help the people of Ukraine can make a donation through New Zealand Red Cross by visiting their website. One hundred per cent of donations will be used to help the people of Ukraine, with much of the funding going directly to international Red Cross teams on the ground there and in neighbouring countries who are providing support to the many people in need. www.redcross.org.nz/donate/ukraine-humanitarian-crisis-appeal
UKRAINIAN HONEY CAKE Olena gave us this traditional recipe for honey cake or medovik, which is one of the most popular desserts in many Slavic countries. The cake originated in Russia with a young chef seeking to impress Empress Elizabeth Alexeievna, wife of Alexander I. Empress Elizabeth hated honey, and any dish made with it. It was said that she despised honey so much that any dish that had even the slightest hint of the sticky, sweet substance would cause her to go into a full-on fury. Unaware of this, a young new pastry chef in the Imperial kitchen baked a new cake with honey and sour cream. The Empress didn't realise that honey was the sweetness she was tasting because the layers of sour cream masked the strong honey flavour. The Empress didn’t just enjoy it, she loved the cake, and it became a firm favourite. Over time the cake has changed slightly with condensed milk (used in Olena’s recipe below) or custard replacing the sour cream. What has remained is the popularity of the cake in this region of the world. DOUGH
2 eggs (we used Otaika Valley Free Range) 1 cup sugar 100g butter 2 tbsp liquid honey 1 tsp baking soda 1 tbsp white vinegar 3 cups plain flour CREAM
250g butter, softened 1 395g tin condensed milk
Preheat the oven to 175°C. Shape the dough into a log and divide into 8 equal parts. Shape each dough piece into a ball. On a piece of baking paper, roll a dough ball out into a thin sheet. Keep the remaining pieces covered with a tea towel. Cut the dough into a disc using a 15cm cake ring or plate. Keep any excess scraps off to the side on a separate oven tray (you will bake these later). Prick the disc with a fork, then bake for 7–8 minutes until golden. Repeat with the other dough pieces. Cool the cooked discs on a wire rack. Once all of the dough has been rolled out and trimmed, bake the scraps until golden and dried out. When cool, blitz these into a crumb. Whip the butter and condensed milk together until thick and fluffy. This may look like it is about to split, but it does hold itself. Layer the first disc on a flat plate. Spread a ninth of the condensed milk/butter cream on top. Repeat this with the other 7 layers, reserving two-ninths of the cream aside. Use the last bit of cream to cover the entire cake, then gently press the blitzed crumbs to coat the cake. Allow to sit overnight in the fridge to soften a little, then serve the next day with a cup of tea.
Beat together eggs and sugar until fully combined then add in the butter, honey and white vinegar. Whisk together over a double boiler until the mix is all melted and the honey and sugar is dissolved, then mix in the baking soda. Take off the heat and gradually fold in the flour. Tip out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. You can dust with extra flour if needed, it is quite forgiving.
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Nourish Earth FOODPRINT LAUNCHES IN THE WAIKATO Globally, one-third of all food produced for human consumption is wasted. The problem is so big that if food waste was a country it would be the third largest greenhouse gas emitter. Each year almost 50,000 tonnes of food is wasted by the hospitality and retail sectors in New Zealand, over 60 percent of which is still edible. When food is thrown out it decomposes in landfills and emits the greenhouse gas methane, making food waste a huge contributor to climate change. Introducing Foodprint. Founder Michal Garvey says, “Foodprint is a sustainability driven app that gives customers a chance to take a bite at saving the planet.” And while customers can find a bargain, local eateries can stop throwing money into the bin. Foodprint has partnered with around 30 eateries across the region including Weave Eatery, Hayes Common, The Store Cambridge and The Herbal Dispensary in Raglan. Johanna from The Store in Cambridge says the response has been amazing. The app has also allowed them to add new items to their offering at little risk, for if they don’t sell, she can discount them and sell them on Foodprint. www.foodprint.app
TETRA PAK RECYCLING Tetra paks are a growing problem, especially for eateries catering to those wanting alternative milks. With help from Anna Petchell at Keep Hamilton Beautiful, the Hayes Common/Weave team have found a great solution. The used tetra paks are collected, flattened and washed before being picked up by Save Board who upcycle them into sustainable building materials. Watch this space as the team works on creating collection sites for you to bring your cartons. www.saveboard.nz www.keephamiltonbeautiful.co.nz
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GET ROASTED RECIPES & IMAGES KATHY PATERSON
It’s winter, the time of year to turn on the oven and get roasting. Meat, vegetables and winter fruits all shine when roasted, intensifying flavour and a savoury presence. Incidentally, I’m with British food writer Nigel Slater, I too will find any excuse to roast a potato.
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THE ESSENTIAL ROAST CHICKEN
Serve with oven-roasted jacket potatoes or kumara and plenty of vegetables. Tip – any extra stuffing can be put into a small dish and roasted until crisp in the oven.
SERVES 6 (IF SERVED WITH PLENTY OF VEGETABLES)
1 x free-range chicken (size 14) 50g butter, softened 2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 2 tsp fresh sage leaves, finely chopped, plus 3 extra small sprigs finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon salt and pepper SAGE STUFFING
25g butter, softened
COOKING TIPS You can turn the chicken during cooking for extra-moist breast meat. Cook the chicken for 15 minutes on its breast then turn every 15 minutes. Finish with the breast upwards to brown. Tying the legs together with string helps the chicken to cook more evenly. You can add wine to your gravy – splash some wine into the roasting dish and let it boil to remove the alcohol. Scrape the bottom and sides of the roasting dish at the same time to scrape up all those delicious sticky, crusty bits that will add an awesome flavour.
3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tsp fresh sage leaves, finely chopped 2–3 thick slices sourdough bread 2 tbsp fresh walnuts, very roughly chopped, or use toasted hazelnuts JACKET POTATOES
6 medium roasting potatoes, scrubbed oil and salt for rubbing CHICKEN GRAVY
2 tbsp plain flour
THE ESSENTIAL LEG OF LAMB SERVES 8 WITH PLENTY OF VEGETABLES AND SOME LEFTOVER COLD LAMB FOR THE FOLLOWING DAY
2 cups chicken stock or more if needed (you can also use vegetable cooking water to replace stock)
2–2.3kg (or thereabouts) leg of lamb
salt and pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Heat the oven to 180°C. Pat the chicken dry using kitchen paper.
1 tbsp dried oregano
In a small bowl, combine the butter, herbs and lemon zest and season with salt and pepper.
salt
Gently work your fingers under the skin of the chicken to loosen it, being careful not to tear it. Nudge the butter and herb mixture into the chicken, rubbing all over the breast meat and then down towards the leg joints, then put your hand on the outer skin and smooth and tease it out so the mixture is spread as evenly as possible. Make the sage stuffing, in a small bowl. Combine the butter, garlic and chopped sage leaves. Spread the butter over the bread slices then cut into cubes. Put the chicken in a roasting dish and stuff the bread cubes into the cavity along with the walnuts or hazelnuts. Squeeze the lemon juice over the skin of the chicken and sprinkle with a little salt. Pull the legs together and tie with kitchen string. Tie the wings to the breast or simply tuck them under. Scatter the sage sprigs around.
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, plus a few sprigs for scattering 8 medium floury potatoes, such as Agria, peeled and cut in half a few lemon slices Put the leg of lamb in a roasting dish (one large enough to hold the potatoes as well in a single layer), and using a small, sharp knife make small, shallow slits in the lamb skin. Mix together the garlic, olive oil, lemon zest, dried oregano and fresh thyme and spoon over the lamb. Loosely cover with baking paper or foil and leave to sit for about an hour to allow the lamb to return to room temperature and for the flavours to mingle.
Rub each potato with oil and salt and put around the chicken. Put in the oven and roast for 1 hour and 15 minutes, basting a couple of times by spooning the juices over the chicken. You can check if the chicken is cooked by piercing the thigh with a small sharp knife. The juices should run clear.
Heat the oven to 180°C. Lift the cover and drizzle the lemon juice over the lamb, sprinkle with a little salt, then roast in the oven for 1 hour 45 minutes for lamb that is just a little pink. After 45 minutes remove the paper or foil cover and put in the prepared potatoes to roast alongside the lamb, scattering around a few lemon slices as well. There is no need to cover the lamb again as you want it to brown now. Baste the lamb and potatoes a couple of times during cooking with the meat juices.
Remove the chicken from the oven and put on a warmed plate. Cover with foil and a clean tea towel and leave to rest for 10 minutes while you make the gravy.
Remove the lamb from the oven, scatter over extra thyme leaves, cover with foil and a clean tea towel and leave to rest for 15–20 minutes before carving.
To make the gravy, add the flour to the roasting dish and put over medium heat. Cook until the flour begins to colour, stirring with a wooden spoon to release any sticky and crispy bits left from cooking the chicken to add flavour and colour to your gravy. Gradually pour in the stock or vegetable water, stirring continuously to prevent lumps forming until lightly thickened and glossy. Season with salt. (If you have a few lumps, strain the gravy through a sieve into a warmed jug for serving.) PAGE 28 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
TO ROAST THE POTATOES Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with lightly salted water. Bring to the boil then boil for 5 minutes. Drain and dry off well over the heat, shaking the saucepan to prevent sticking. Using a clean tea towel to help you, hold each potato piece and scuff up with a fork. Once all
potatoes are nicely scuffed and still hot, transfer them to the roasting dish with the lamb. Turn them in the meat juices before returning roasting dish to the oven and cook for an hour.
BASTING TIP Remove the lamb from the oven for basting and close the oven door so the oven temperature doesn’t drop.
CARVING TIP Carve the lamb with a sharp carving knife, carving across the grain of the meat for tender slices. To begin carving, cut a large wedge from the meat at the knuckle end. Slice thin slices down towards the bone. Run knife under lamb slices to release.
LEFTOVER TIPS The most obvious is lamb sandwiches for lunch the next day. Mince the lamb or cut very finely and make fritters or rissoles.
Kathy Paterson Kathy Paterson is a recipe developer, food stylist and photographer. A plentiful herb garden and a trial and error vegetable garden give Kathy the starting place for her recipes along with her love of the classics with a modern twist. www.kathypaterson.co.nz
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Peace-of-mind... from contract to keys.
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With our fixed-price contract, we have certainty and can really enjoy the experience. Monique and Sam Kimber-Bell
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OH CRUMBS RECIPES HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
The humble, versatile crumbed chicken should be one of your go-to’s. It can be a stand-alone meal, the base of a chicken Parmesan, a crunchy little canapé, or sliced to top a salad. The classic flour, egg, breadcrumb combo won’t let you down, but it doesn’t always need to be so plain. Add finely grated Parmesan into your crumb for a cheese hit; sprinkle mixed herbs or spices into the flour for an extra flavour bomb; or use my partner’s mum’s secret tip, sage and onion stuffing mix instead of breadcrumbs – it’s delicious. Much debate ensued in the Nourish office as to whether you should double crumb, single crumb, use flour or not. Here is my final answer for the best way to crumb. I’ve used chicken breast but apply this method to anything you are wanting to crumb.
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Step 1
Step 2
Set up your crumbing station with flour in one bowl, beaten egg in another and panko breadcrumbs a third. Add a grinding of salt and pepper to the bowls for extra flavour.
Cut the chicken breast in half so you have two thinner pieces. This ensures it’s cooked through without risking burning the crumb, and you get maximum crunch of course!
Step 3
Step 4
Coat the chicken in the flour, making sure there is no raw chicken exposed.
Dip the chicken into the egg, once again making sure the chicken is completely coated.
Step 5 Do the same with the panko crumb, carefully patting the crumb into the egg coating.
Step 6 In a cast iron or non-stick pan, heat a good knob of butter and glug of vegetable oil over a medium heat. Once hot, but not smoking, carefully place the chicken in the pan.
Step 8 Step 7 Make sure the oil is bubbling around the edges, if not, add another dash in. Control the heat, you don’t want the crumb to burn.
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Allow the crumb to crisp up and become nice and golden on one side, then flip it over. Once the other side is golden, turn the heat down and allow the chicken to fully cook through. Drain on a paper towel to soak up any excess oil before serving.
SALSA VERDE
LAMB CHOPS
The girls in my family love crumbed lamb chops; Dad not so much. They were often on the menu on his Tuesday bike nights. I’ve stepped them up a level by marinading them in salsa verde to add the extra zing we all need in winter.
½ cup mint, chopped
6–10 lamb loin chops
½ cup parsley, chopped
1–1½ cups of breadcrumbs
2 tbsp capers, chopped
2 eggs, whisked (we use Otaika Valley free range eggs)
2 cloves garlic, crushed zest and juice of a lemon
¼ cup flour
¼ cup olive oil
knob of butter
salt and pepper
vegetable oil
Place the mint, parsley, capers, garlic, lemon, olive oil and some salt and pepper into a blender or food processor. Blitz until a smooth paste is achieved. Rub the salsa verde all over the lamb chops and leave to marinade overnight or for at least 4 hours. Set up your crumbing station with the egg, flour and crumbs all in separate bowls. Start by coating the chops in flour, then egg, then crumbs, making sure each layer is fully coated. Set aside on a plate until all chops are crumbed. In a cast iron or non-stick pan, heat a good knob of butter and glug of vegetable oil over a medium heat. Once hot, but not smoking, carefully place the chops in the pan. Make sure the oil is bubbling around the edges, if not, add another dash in. Control the heat. You don’t want the crumb to burn. Let the chops cook on one side until the crumb is golden, then flip over. They may also need to be turned on their side to crisp up the thick edge. Once golden on all sides, the lamb should be cooked through.
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CRUNCHY
STUFFED M U S H R O OM S
You won’t be missing meat when you dish these up at the dinner table. Serve with your favourite side salad, roast veggies, or with a slow cooked tomato sauce.
8–10 large portobello mushrooms, stalks removed 125g round of brie, roughly chopped 3 cups loosely packed fresh sourdough breadcrumbs 1 tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped ¼ cup olive oil salt and pepper In a food processor place the breadcrumbs, chopped brie and thyme along with 1tsp of flaky salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Pulse until combined and starting to clump. Add in 1–2 tbsp of olive oil to just coat the crumb. Place the mushrooms on an oven tray, underside facing up. Drizzle over the ¼ cup of olive oil, being generous with this, as it will ensure juicy mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the crumb mixture among the mushrooms, packing the crumb firmly on top. Place in the oven at 190°C fan bake for 25–30 minutes or until golden and crunchy on top and the mushroom is soft and cooked through.
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Kohlrabi RECIPES & IMAGES EMMA GALLOWAY
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NOURISH
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RECIPES
My love for kohlrabi runs deep. While sadly still not the most well known of vegetables, I was lucky enough to grow up eating homegrown kohlrabi as my parents had an extensive veggie garden. If you’re someone who fights over the broccoli stalk (me!), then you’ll love kohlrabi’s crunchy brassica vibe. I mostly eat them raw, simply peeled and eaten like an apple, but they add lovely flavour to soups and stir-fries and are amazing roasted. Kohlrabi is super easy to grow yourself (autumn is the ideal time to get seedlings in the ground), but thankfully it’s also becoming easier to find at fruit and vegetable stores or at your local farmers markets over the winter months too. They come in green and purple varieties, and while the centres of them are the same once peeled, I find the purple ones have a slightly more pronounced pepperiness to them, which I love.
Creamy Kohlrabi Soup
Loosely based on the Hungarian soup karalabe leves, this creamy soup is so much more flavourful than its visual simplicity implies. Traditionally made with milk or cream, I’ve opted to add a few potatoes to give a similar creaminess. I’ve served with a little dollop of sour cream, but if you want to keep this vegan, simply serve scattered with herbs and use olive oil instead of butter. Try and choose small, tender kohlrabi for this recipe, of which you’ll need approx. 3–5, but should your kohlrabi be a little older and larger, pass the soup through a fine sieve once pureed to remove any possible graininess. SERVES 4
2 tbsp butter, ghee or olive oil 1 medium onion, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 750g kohlrabi, peeled and cubed 2 medium potatoes (approx. 220g), peeled and cubed 5 cups vegetable stock 1 bay leaf, fresh or dried fine sea salt and ground white pepper
Melt butter/ghee/olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until tender but not coloured. Add kohlrabi, potato, vegetable stock and bay leaf. Season with a little salt and white pepper, give it all a good stir and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Remove from the heat and puree until smooth using a stick blender. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot with a dollop of sour cream/crème fraiche, chopped herbs and buttered toast. Store any leftovers in a lidded container in the fridge for up to 3 days.
sour cream or crème fraiche, to serve, optional roughly chopped chives and parsley, and buttered toast, to serve
Whether you’re brunching, lunching or baking, our nutritious and delicious free-range eggs are a kitchen essential. Our happy hens are free to roam on the luscious and fertile land of our family farms in Whangarei and Rotorua, producing what we believe are the tastiest eggs you can get. Pick up one of our pretty packs at a supermarket near you.
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Paprika-Roasted Kohlrabi with Whipped Feta and Coriander Jalapeño Sauce Choose small, tender kohlrabi for this dish. The whipped feta can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in the fridge, and the coriander jalapeño sauce can be made a few hours before serving.
½ tsp smoked paprika
Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine olive oil, paprika and smoked paprika in a bowl. Add kohlrabi wedges and mix well to coat. Season with fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer kohlrabi and any paprika oil left over in the bowl to a baking tray and roast 25–30 minutes or until tender and golden.
WHIPPED FETA
Meanwhile, place feta and yoghurt into a small food processor and blend until smooth.
SERVES 4–6
1kg kohlrabi, peeled and cut into wedges 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp paprika
100g feta 100g (½ cup) plain Greek yoghurt CORIANDER JALAPEÑO SAUCE
big handful coriander leaves and tender stems zest 1 small lemon, finely grated 1 small clove garlic 1 tbsp pickled jalapeños, finely chopped 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
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For the sauce, finely chop coriander, lemon zest and garlic and transfer to a small bowl. Add finely chopped jalapeño and olive oil. Season with a little salt. To serve, spoon whipped feta onto a serving plate, spreading it to cover the base. Top with roasted kohlrabi (plus any paprika-stained oil from the tray) and coriander jalapeño sauce. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Emma Galloway mydarlinglemonthyme.com @mydarlinglemonthyme Emma Galloway is a former chef, food photographer and creator of the multi-award winning food blog My Darling Lemon Thyme. She is the author of three cookbooks, her latest book Every Day was released in April 2021. She lives in Raglan with her husband and two children.
NOURISH
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RECIPES
Beef Cheek & c h e ese Pie RECIPE VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Beef cheek is a super-rich meat that when cooked slowly makes for a gorgeous ragu which is delicious tossed through fettuccini, in a lasagne or served with creamy mash or polenta. In this case I have paired it with Meyer Cheese’s black pepper gouda and my sour cream pastry. It makes one large family sized pie or around eight individual pies. If making the individual pies you will use more pastry so times the pastry recipe by 1.5. Either way cook in an oven preheated to 160°C for 3 to 3 hours 20 minutes, or until the beef cheek falls apart. Allow the meat to cool to room temperature.
FILLING
oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 1kg beef cheek
PASTRY
¼ cup flour
2 cups flour
salt & pepper
200g cold butter, chopped
½ cup red wine
½– ¾ cup sour cream
2 garlic cloves
1 egg, beaten (I use Otaika Valley Free Range)
1 bay leaf
extra cracked pepper
sprig thyme ¼ cup tomato paste 2 cups beef stock 200g Meyer Cheese Black Pepper Gouda Preferably in a Dutch oven or alternatively a heavy based fry pan, heat a little oil and sweat the onion and carrot, being careful to not brown them. While they are cooking dust the beef cheeks in the flour and season with salt and pepper. When the onion is translucent, remove them and carrots from the pan. Add a little more oil and then place the beef cheeks in. Brown the cheeks well on both sides then add the red wine. When the red wine has cooked off, add the cooked onion and carrots back in, along with the remaining ingredients, except the cheese.
Put the flour and chopped butter in a food processor and process till it resembles fine breadcrumbs. With the motor running add half a cup of sour cream slowly, more if it is not coming together. You want it to form a ball. Wrap and rest in the fridge for at least half an hour. Roll the pastry out and line the bottom of your pie tin/s. Fill with the beef cheek mix and top this with the black pepper gouda. Top with a pastry lid, brush with a beaten egg and sprinkle with an extra grind of black pepper. Bake at 190°C for 45–60 minutes until the pastry is golden brown.
If not using a Dutch oven, place everything in an ovenproof dish. My Dutch oven is quite large so I cut a piece of baking paper, scrunched it and then placed it on the top of the stew before placing the lid on top.
MAGILLS BUTCHERY TIP: BEEF CHEEKS Beef cheek is an underrated cut of meat, and when cooked to perfection the result is a very tender, richly flavoursome piece of meat. Ideally you would like to cook for 8 hours at a lower temperature (90deg) in your crock pot. The result should be a pull-apart texture with plenty of moisture. If you don’t have all day, use the Magills Slow Cooked Beef Cheek for perfect results in minutes! www.magills.co.nz
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Matariki LAMB LOIN WITH SMOKED KŪMARA MASH, KAWAKAWA PESTO & HOROPITO SALT RECIPE VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
On June 24th we will be celebrating Matariki for the first time as a nation. This special time of year is traditionally a time to give thanks for an abundant harvest, to gather whānau around and share food, remembering the past and looking to the future. Like with so many celebrations, food is a crucial part of Matariki, and so I feel it timely that we as a nation embrace this time of year and also begin to embrace our food story. In this dish I take beautiful New Zealand lamb and pair it with a smoked kūmara mash reminiscent of the flavours found from hāngī. I then take uniquely New Zealand ingredients like kawakawa and horopito that we have foraged while on a family walk to bring the dish together.
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NOURISH
SMOKED KŪMARA MASH
500–750g kūmara (I used the beautiful orange Beauregard, but any will work) ½ cup cream 30g butter handful of wood chips, soaked for at least an hour KAWAKAWA PESTO
½ cup pine nuts (cashews or almonds would also work) 100–150g watercress or rocket 10–15 kawakawa leaves 1 garlic clove 50g Parmesan, grated pinch of flaky salt /3 cup olive oil
1
4x lamb loin, at room temperature for best results 1 tbsp sesame seeds
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RECIPES
with the salt mix, then sear for 3 minutes on one side, then 2 minutes on the other, before placing it in the oven for 4 minutes to finish cooking. Remove lamb from the oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Slice the lamb loin and serve on a bed of the smoky kūmara mash. Dollop the pesto on top of the lamb. Serve with your favourite winter salad or steamed broccolini. We have used a watercress and orange salad here. Note: if you have a smoker on your BBQ, you could put the cream in there. Or forget the fluff and buy liquid smoke from Vetro, then add a few drops in until you achieve the desired smoky flavour.
DRIED HOROPITO Horopito is a spicy leaf with wonderful lemon undertones. I dry the leaves either in the sunshine for a couple of days or a week depending on the time of year. Alternatively, you can place them in the oven at night as it is cooling down, or better still in a dehydrator if you have one. If using the oven or sun method be sure there is plenty of air flow by placing the leaves on a cooling rack. Once the leaves are dry, they should easily crush. If turning them into a peppery salt, simply pound with sea salt in a mortar and pestle.
2 tsp flaky sea salt 2 tsp freshly cracked pepper
HOROPITO AND LEMON CORDIAL
2 tsp dried and ground horopito
This simple to make cordial is great if you are feeling under the weather. A dose of vitamin C along with a peppery kick from the horopito is just the tonic to knock any cold out of you. But don’t relinquish it to just the first aid kit, it makes a refreshing soda with the addition of some sparkling water.
To make the smoky kūmara mash, peel the kūmara and chop into 6–8 pieces, then place in a pot of cold water with a generous pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and simmer until soft. While the kumara is cooking, smoke the cream and butter. Place the soaked woodchips on the bottom of a wok, cover with a lid and heat. Place the cream and butter in a small metal bowl and when the smoke has built up, quickly lift the lid and place the bowl inside. Re-cover and smoke the cream and butter for 5 minutes, with the heat on low. Once the 5 minutes is up, turn the heat off and leave it in there until the kūmara is cooked. Drain the kūmara and mash, then add in the smoked cream/butter. Season to taste and keep warm until serving. To make the kawakawa pesto, place the nuts, cress, kawakawa, Parmesan, salt and garlic into a blender and blitz. Slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream until fully blended. Check for seasoning and set aside until needed. To cook the lamb, pat the loins dry with a paper towel. Mix together the sesame seeds, salt, pepper and horopito. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat a large pan and add a dash of oil. Sprinkle the lamb loins liberally
1 cup sugar 1 cup water handful of dried horopito leaves* ½–1 cup fresh lemon juice** Place the sugar, water and horopito in a small pot and heat. Once the sugar has completely dissolved take the syrup off the heat and allow to cool completely. Strain and add the lemon juice, then store in the fridge until you need. To serve, dilute to taste with still (hot or cold) or sparkling water. *You can adjust the pepperiness by adjusting the amount of horopito you use. **The amount of lemon juice you use will depend on the sharpness of your lemons.
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ESPRE S S O TO D E S S E RT RECIPES CARRIE EVANS | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
There is a saying, ‘coffee is always a good idea’. So, with the help of Carrie and the Excelso team, we thought we’d take that message beyond your morning cup and serve it up for dessert.
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NOURISH
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RECIPES
ST IC KY DATE C O FFEE PU D D IN G
This twist on the ever popular sticky date pudding is great, with a smooth coffee which can be achieved with cold drip coffee, or we used the good old plunger or French press. Carrie suggests a Brazil Doce Verao, with almond, caramel and dark chocolate notes. Or perhaps a Mexico Chiapas SHG with dark chocolate, toffee and hazelnut flavours. MAKES 8 INDIVIDUAL PUDDINGS OR ONE LARGE ONE.
1 cup dates 200ml boiling water 200ml coffee 1 tsp baking soda
Cream butter, sugar and vanilla extract until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Fold in sifted flour, baking powder, salt and remaining 100ml coffee. Now mix in the soaked dates. Spoon into tins or moulds and bake for 15–20 minutes.
A FFO GATO
1 tsp vanilla extract
SAUCE
Is there a more perfect ending to a dinner party? Just two ingredients and no prep required.
pinch salt
½ cup coffee
1½ cups plain flour
½ cup cream
1 tsp baking powder
½ cup brown sugar
Heat oven to 170°C.
Combine all ingredients and cook on medium heat, stirring constantly to dissolve the sugar.
2 eggs 80g butter ¾ cup caster sugar
Grease muffin tins, moulds or mini loaf tin. In a bowl mix dates, boiling water, 100ml coffee and baking soda. Allow to cool.
Bring to a boil and then turn off the heat. Pour over sticky date pudding while warm.
A stove top Moka pot makes a wonderful strong coffee, perfect for affogato if you don’t have an espresso machine. Carrie suggests their Stag blend with its walnut, brown sugar and chocolate notes. No espresso machine or Moka pot? No worries, a plunger will work too. Place 2 small scoops of good quality vanilla ice cream in a beautiful glass, then pour over your strong brewed coffee.
Th e h ear t of Hamilton
181 Victoria Street Hamilton 07 839 6680 Mon to Fri 7:00am – 3pm Sat & Sun 8:00am – 4pm www.scottsepicurean.co.nz
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C O FFEE C H IA P U D D IN G WI T H C O CONUT W H IP A N D CO FFE E C RU M B S We’ve jazzed up the chia pudding, making it an impressive vegan dessert. Although, if you omit the coconut whip and coffee crumbs you have quite possibly the perfect breakfast – caffeine fix and all. Carrie strongly suggests using cold drip for this recipe as espresso and other brew methods are likely to result in a bitter tasting pudding, although you might get away with their River Blend which has nectarine, dried apricot and caramel flavours. SERVES 4
COFFEE CRUMB:
COCONUT WHIP:
1 cup cold drip coffee
½ cup milk powder
1 cup coconut cream
2 tbsp cornflour
½ cup chia seeds
¼ cup flour
2 tbsp maple syrup
3 tbsp brown sugar
Refrigerate ¾ cup of coconut cream for a few hours or overnight for best results. You want it really cold but not frozen. Using an electric mixer, whip the coconut cream for a few minutes until light, airy and thick.
Optional: Add 2 tsp cocoa powder for mocha chia pudding.
pinch of flaky salt 3 tbsp coffee grounds 60g butter, melted
In a small cup or bowl, combine coffee, maple syrup and coconut cream, and mix well. Add chia seeds, mix well and allow the chia seeds to swell. After about 30 minutes, pour the mix evenly between 4 glasses and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
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Preheat the oven to 160°C. Whisk the dry ingredients together to break up any lumps. Pour over the melted butter and mix well. Spread out on a tray and bake for 10 minutes. Allow to cool, then place in a container until ready to use.
TO SERVE: Remove the puddings from the fridge. Dollop a spoonful of the coconut whip on top of the chia, then sprinkle with the coffee crumb.
Order your Excelso coffee at www.excelso.co.nz
NOURISH
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HOW TO
VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN'S ULTIMATE LASAGNE
J. KENJI LOPEZ, THE FOOD LAB
GUY GROSSI, FROM THE RECIPE BY JOSH EMMETT
BON APPETIT'S BEST LASAGNE
THE FOOD LAB + VICKI
BON APPETIT'S + VICKI + HARRIET
Ah LASAGNE WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Growing up, every birthday Mum would ask what I wanted her to cook for my celebration dinner. I gave her the same answer each time – lasagne. I am a lasagne fiend and can’t ever go past it. My usual lasagne normally involves some nearly past it veggies and whatever else I have lying around to make a rich meat sauce. Then, of course, a cheesy béchamel and some fresh lasagne sheets from the supermarket. I don’t put too much thought into it, that was until I embarked on finding the perfect recipe. Vicki Ravlich-Horan’s Ultimate Lasagne What better way to either suck up to your boss (or get yourself in the bad books) than to put their lasagne recipe in the mix. Vicki’s lasagne is from her Nourish cookbook that was published in 2013. The meat sauce is simple but rich, with a mix of beef and pork mince, red wine, tomato passata and onion, celery, carrot and garlic. A hint of allspice in the sauce acts as a flavour enhancer. There isn’t anything over complicated about her bolognaise method and after bubbling away for an hour I had a thick, meaty sauce, packed with flavour. Vic’s béchamel has a twist on your usual recipe with the addition of ricotta and an egg as well as Meyer gouda, resulting in an enriched, fluffy cheese sauce. Starting with the bolognaise, I layered it up using dried sheets in between, finishing with the cheese sauce and some extra gouda. J. Kenji Lopez, The Food Lab I could write the entire article on this one. The bolognaise alone has 30 ingredients, before you even get to the béchamel. The first 6 ingredients are chicken livers, anchovies, soy sauce, marmite, cream and milk (you’d think you were making pâté) followed by three types of mince, Parmesan, fish sauce and an entire bottle of white wine, just to name a few. The process of this sauce was a gruelling task which took about four hours. The aroma of chicken livers wafting throughout the house made me apprehensive to taste the bolognaise. While the sauce reduced, I made the equally questionable béchamel. The roux uses two tablespoons each of butter and flour, then two cups of infused milk, which created
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a very thin béchamel. With no sign of thickening, I added the mozzarella in (not a cheese I would usually use). It turned into a stretchy, choux like ball, before breaking down into a thin sauce again. The absence of cheddar cheese made for a lacklustre tasting béchamel. The recipe called for pre-soaked dried lasagne sheets that irritatingly clumped together. Add to this, the mince to béchamel ratio was wrong, leaving me with leftover mince. Bon Appetit’s Best Lasagne I have been wanting to tackle this lasagne after listening to an hour-long podcast on it. I figured if you can talk about it for an hour, it must be good. Instead of browning off the mince, you turn it into large meatballs which then get seared in hot oil. This seemed like a bit of a waste of time and was quite fiddly. The recipe also calls for whole peeled tomatoes, which you crush with your hands, and since I was wearing a white tee, I passed on that step. Once I had my base sauce bubbling, I added the meatballs back in and then placed the pot in a low oven to cook, instead of the traditional stove top. This ended up taking over three hours to reduce. Once reduced, you mash the meatballs with a potato masher which just felt wrong, destroying all my hard work. Flavoured with Parmesan cheese, nutmeg and cayenne pepper, the béchamel was fairly simple. I used dried lasagne sheets, or ‘noodles’ as Americans call them, which I begrudgingly pre-cooked as per the recipe. This lasagne had lots of layers in it, which some could argue was too much pasta, but I love it. The meat sauce was better than Food Lab’s but with a fraction of the ingredients. Guy Grossi, from The Recipe by Josh Emmett Guy Grossi is known as Melbourne’s Italian food god. With multiple restaurants and an outstanding reputation, I had high hopes. Italian sauces are often simple, relying on quality ingredients, hence Guy’s recipe having the fewest ingredients of all recipes tested, including an inconvenient 100g of pork and chicken mince and then 800g of beef mince. The consistency seemed watery thin and took about two hours to reduce. The milk for the béchamel was infused with fresh nutmeg, bay leaf and onion, which gave it a beautiful depth of flavour. I almost quit making this lasagne when I discovered the béchamel had
no cheese in it! Thankfully, you sprinkle Parmesan between the layers. This is the only recipe that required me to dust off the pasta machine and make the sheets by hand. My little helper Zoe and I made a great lasagne sheet production team, although we had enough pasta to make three lasagnes with the overly generous recipe. The Tasting Panel For this ‘how to’, I hosted a tasting panel to critique what ended up being six versions of lasagne. I invited award-winning food writer Denise Irvine, Riccardo Carminati from Alpino Cambridge, and mum of four (making her a qualified lasagne judge) Anna Sinclair. I was bold with my first choice in the line-up and started with my final recipe, a blend of Bon Appetit’s, Vicki’s and my own touch. They loved the pancetta in the bolognaise, its cheesy topping and robust flavour. Denise kept going back to this one. Food Lab’s was next, which I picked would be Riccardo’s favourite and I wasn’t wrong. He loved the intensely rich bolognaise but mentioned it wasn’t traditional like his nonna would make. Anna loved the balanced meat sauce of lasagne number three, her sister Vicki’s. The crunchy topping peaked Denise’s interest, and she noticed this was a more tomato based, hearty bolognaise. Bon Appetit’s best lasagne wasn’t a winner with its overwhelming pasta layers and chunky ‘mashed meatball’ bolognaise. Anna found it “quite different”, and it was her least favourite. The handmade pasta was a hit in the Guy Grossi recipe, but the other components were in need of some body to them. Riccardo loved the saucy bolognaise and fresh pasta but again, it wasn’t traditional.
Add some
Try Peplers Harissa Paste with yoghurt on roasted cauliflower.
Vicki’s béchamel was the stand out of the lot with its fluffy texture and three cheeses. My ultimate lasagne, first in the line-up, was the unanimous favourite of the panel. I’ve drawn out my favourite bits of each lasagne and tweaked the method so it’s less of a marathon. By no means is this a quick weeknight meal though. Get organised and make the bolognaise in advance, the flavour will intensify if left in the fridge for a few days!
Harriet Boucher Harriet is a Waikato born and raised foodie. She is a chef by trade and has worked in a few popular cafes and restaurants around Hamilton. When she isn’t whipping up treats, you can find her enjoying a walk along the river or dining at her favourite local eateries.
Available at great food stores and online at
peplers.co.nz
or visit us at 5c Main St, Te Kauwhata
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Harriet's
ULTIMATE LASAGNE
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NOURISH
BOLOGNAISE:
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RECIPES
Mix pork and beef mince with 2 large pinches of salt and a really generous grinding of pepper.
1kg pork mince 500g beef mince 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 200g pancetta, cubed (available at Vetro) 150–200g mushrooms, sliced 1 large onion, finely diced 1 large celery stalk, finely diced 1 large carrot, finely diced 6 plump garlic cloves, grated or crushed 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 cup white wine 2 tins chopped tomatoes 2 cups chicken stock 1 cup milk BÉCHAMEL:
100g butter ½ cup flour 3 cups milk ½ tsp nutmeg, freshly grated (use a bit less if pre-ground) ½ cup Parmesan, grated 1 cup ricotta 1 cup cheddar cheese, grated 1 egg, lightly whisked (I use Otaika Valley Free Range) 500g dried lasagne sheets (available at La Cave or Vetro)
Heat oil over a medium-high heat in a large cast iron pot. Working in batches, brown off the meat. Make sure you let some bits get really crispy for extra flavour. Transfer to a bowl until it’s all browned off. Reduce heat to medium. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until the fat has rendered down and it’s beginning to crisp up, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, onion, celery, carrot and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 6–8 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often. Increase the heat slightly, add the wine and cook until it’s almost evaporated. Add tomatoes and cook for a further 5–10 minutes until the liquid is starting to reduce and become jammy. Add chicken stock, milk and browned-off mince and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and cook for 2–3 hours until flavoursome and rich. In the first two hours add extra water if the sauce is thickening too fast or the bottom is sticking. After the two-hour mark, let the sauce reduce to a thick bolognaise. Check the seasoning, adding salt and pepper if needed. While the bolognaise is cooking, make the béchamel. In a medium sized pot, melt the butter over a medium heat until foaming. Add the flour in and stir with a wooden spoon for about 1 minute. Add the milk a third of a cup at a time, stirring constantly. Continue to stir for 3–4 minutes until thickened. Add cheeses and egg and stir until well combined. Taste for seasoning, adding nutmeg, salt and pepper. Set aside until ready to use. Heat the oven to 180°C. In a large/deep dish (about 25x30cm), start with a third of the meat sauce on the bottom, then pour over a quarter of the béchamel. Add a layer of lasagne sheets. Repeat this twice more and spread the last quarter of the béchamel on the top layer of lasagne sheets. Sprinkle with grated mozzarella and bake in the oven for 30–35 minutes, until the pasta is cooked through and the top is golden brown.
generous handful of grated mozzarella
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OF NZ'S ARTISAN FOOD SCENE 92 Alpha St, Cambridge | 07 8232587
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Like a Virgin RECIPES CRAIG LOVEDAY | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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NOURISH
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RECIPES
The consumption of alcohol is falling, both globally and here in New Zealand. There are many reasons for this decline, from social media through to a more health-conscious population, especially among the younger generation. Whether you have eliminated alcohol completely, are embarking on Dry July, or just cutting down there is a growing number of options available. We asked Craig Loveday, Hamilton’s king of the cocktail and owner of Ernest, to create us a few virgin cocktails.
Pineapple and Honey Mojito /3 cup pineapple and honey syrup*
1
4 wedges of fresh lime 8 mint leaves, plus mint tip to garnish soda pineapple wedges
*PINEAPPLE AND HONEY SYRUP
2 cups of honey 1 cup boiling water 100 pink peppercorns (available from Vetro and The Herbal Dispensary) 1 pineapple, cubed
Add pineapple syrup, lime and mint to a tall glass then muddle. Add ice, then top up with soda and mix well. Garnish with a pineapple wedge and mint tip.
Muddle pink peppercorns with the pineapple pieces. Add the honey and water, mix until well combined. Refrigerate overnight then strain and bottle.
WEL L B E I N G STO R E Call in or shop online for our herbal teas, natural skincare, herbal supplements and tonics.
www.raglanherbaldispensar y.nz raglan he r baldi spensar y.nz theherbal di spensar y
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Berry Blast 8 frozen raspberries, plus extra for garnish 2 tbsp fresh squeezed lemon 2 tbsp passionfruit pulp ¼ cup cold brew black tea* ¼ cup cranberry juice ice Add all ingredients into a shaker or glass jar with a small handful of ice. Shake well, then strain into a glass over new ice and garnish with a handful of crushed frozen raspberries.
*COLD BREW TEA Add one English breakfast tea bag to one cup of cold filtered water. Let it sit for at least 4 hours, but overnight would be great. Once steeped remove the tea bag.
Passionfruit Spritz 3 tbsp passionfruit pulp 2 tbsp fresh lime juice 1 tbsp simple syrup* soda 10 dashes Angostura bitters sliced limes mint tips Add ice to a glass along with the first three ingredients, top with soda and mix well. Dash the bitters on top so they float. Garnish with mint tip and lime wheel.
*SIMPLE SYRUP Add 1 part sugar and 1 part water in a pot. Bring to the boil. Give it a stir, then take off the heat. Let it cool, then put into a glass jar. (This will last about a month in the fridge.)
Ernest 30 Alexandra Street www.ernestnz.com
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Nourish Drinks NEW BREWS FROM GOOD BUZZ Good Buzz Beverage Co is launching another fruity addition to the range with Boysenberry Apple. Launching in both 328ml and 888ml on July 1st, it's sure to be a winter hit.
THIS IS NEAT!
INTRODUCING WYLD The brainchild of Ali Titulaer and Jimmy Muir, filmmakers and coffee connoisseurs based in the wild and beautiful Coromandel Peninsula, Wyld is delicious organic coffee with healthenhancing adaptogens. Seeing a gap in the market for great-tasting, on-thego cold brew enhanced with the benefits of functional mushrooms, Ali and Jimmy set about researching, testing and finally creating Wyld – Aotearoa's first adaptogenic cold brew coffee blend.
World’s leading non-alcoholic spirits company introduces Highland Malt – a unique homage to whisky. Lyre’s Global Flavour Architect says, “Whether served neat or in mixers, whisky is a firm favourite for many around the world and understanding this, we’ve worked tirelessly to study the aromas and tastes whisky fans most enjoy, to deliver our Highland Malt. “People who enjoy the taste of a great whisky can experience our nonalcoholic version during occasions that would otherwise only feature its alcoholic counterpart – it extends the occasion to more people, more often.” RRP $54.99 (700ml bottle) or $24.43 (200ml bottle) www.lyres.co.nz
Head to La Cave to get your hands on a can. www.drinkwyld.com
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Magical, Medicinal Mushrooms As the days get darker, damper and colder you may notice more mushrooms popping up on trees and rotten logs, between bark and fallen leaves. A bush walk the other day had me pondering just how incredible mushrooms are, connected by a mycelium network that spans the globe (if you haven’t watched the documentary Fantastic Fungi, I recommend it). Like plants, many mushrooms contain secondary metabolites; compounds that are not essential for growth, development or reproduction, but have other uses such as defence or attraction. These offer a variety of nutritional and medicinal benefits yet are also responsible for the toxicity – in some cases deadly – of certain mushroom species. The medicinal use of mushrooms goes back thousands of years. The oldest human mummy, dating back 4,000 years, was found with a medicine kit containing medicinal mushrooms still used today! These traditional uses are now being reinforced by studies with promising results. One of the most recognised secondary metabolites are polysaccharides, in particular beta-glucans, which stimulate our immune system by activating immune cells. Other secondary metabolites, including vitamins, antioxidants, terpenes and peptides found in mushrooms, also offer a variety of health benefits.
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REISHI | GANODERMA LUCIDUM Perhaps the most well known of the medicinal mushrooms, reishi is known as the ‘mushroom of immortality’. Uses trace back 2,000 years to China where reishi is considered a superior tonic herb for enhancing energy, strengthening the heart, and providing various anti-aging benefits, such as supporting memory and the immune system. Reishi increases the activity of key enzymes involved in protecting the body against oxidative stress and activates immune cells such as T and B lymphocytes, macrophages and natural killer cells. CORDYCEPS | CORDYCEPS MILITARIS Cordyceps is a parasitic mushroom that grows on the larvae of insects, taking over the host (which dies) before sprouting from its body! Cordyceps is gaining popularity as a medicinal mushroom due to its variety of benefits, in particular supporting strength, endurance and stamina. Nowadays, many varieties are cultivated on grain, making them more appealing to a wider audience. Animal and human studies demonstrate its ability to increase ATP and VO2 max, thereby increasing exercise performance, although further research is required. This, along with its antioxidant actions, may also contribute to its traditional use for boosting energy and libido. TURKEY TAIL | TRAMETES VERSICOLOR
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H E A LT H
in time research will uncover its own medicinal benefits. Medicinal mushrooms are best taken daily and long-term, which aligns with their traditional use as tonic medicines. They come in many forms, with powders the most common, easily added to hot or cold drinks or foods. Long-term use is safe; however, if you are taking medications, are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have specific health concerns, speak to a qualified practitioner first.
By Alena Winter Naturopath, Medical Herbalist & Nutritionist BNHM, DipNut, MNMHNZ, MNZAMH
The Herbal Dispensary 07 825 7444 | 6 Wallis Street, Raglan www.raglanherbaldispensary.nz
Traditionally used in Chinese medicine for supporting the respiratory and immune systems, turkey tail contains high levels of polysaccharides including PSP and PSK, which provide potent antioxidant and immune modulating actions. Preliminary studies suggest these polysaccharides may be able to inhibit the growth of cancer cells. Some countries have approved extracts from turkey tail as an addition to cancer treatments, and research is ongoing. SHIITAKE | LENTINUS EDODES Shiitake is the second most popular cultivated mushroom in the world due to its popularity as a food, with its rich, fragrant flavour. Often found dried in Asian grocery stores, they make a delicious and health-promoting addition to soups, broths and stews. Called ‘an elixir of life’, shiitake offers a range of health benefits including immune modulation. Shiitake also contains a specific compound known as eritadenine which helps to maintain healthy cholesterol levels, thereby supporting the cardiovascular system. LION’S MANE | HERICIUM ERINACEUS Said to give ‘nerves of steel and the mind of a lion’, animal and human studies have shown benefits supporting cognitive function, memory, nerve growth factor and overall brain function through its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant actions. This makes it an option for maintaining and optimising memory and supporting the management of dementia. Its additional actions on anxiety, mood disorders and gut health make it a great choice for elderly, menopause or those with gut-brain dysbiosis. Of more recent interest is New Zealand’s own lion’s mane, pekepeke-kiore (Hericium novae-zealandiae). Its delicate, unique flavour has sparked interest from the culinary industry, and it is hoped that
Lantern, Papamoa Home of the famous Prawn Toast
DISCOVER MORE AT BAYOFPLENTYNZ.COM
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Bean Thinking
About What to Grow This winter? WORDS LYNDA HALLINAN
Is it possible to fat shame a vegetable? If so, I have some sympathy for the humble broad bean, a legume lumbered with both an unappealing name and a much-maligned reputation for rubbery skins and floury flesh if left too long in either your vegetable plot or pot.
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Every autumn when I sow broad beans, I'm reminded of the time when, inspired by my 10-year-old son's enthusiasm for motocross, I bravely bought a bike too, only to come a cropper trying to find comfortable safety gear. "Don't feel bad," the young chap in the motorcycle shop said as he handed me an extra large helmet, "it's just that you have a broad face." Broad beans (Vicia faba) are so named because their fleshy seeds are larger, flatter and wider than, say, kidney beans, black-eyed peas or peas-in-the-pod. But big is actually better as, unlike soy beans, lentils, chickpeas and rice, broad beans are one of the few vegan proteins that can easily be grown in home gardens in sufficient quantities to make your own plant-based ‘meat’ alternatives. What's more, broad beans feed your garden as well as your appetite, sequestering nitrogen in nodules on their roots while preventing soil erosion in heavy rain. It's for this reason that broad beans are prized as a ‘green manure’ or ‘cover crop’ to fill empty garden areas over winter. Even if you have no desire to eat them, sow them now anyway and simply plough the plants come spring to replenish your soil. Sow the large seeds directly where you want them to grow to save time and the hassle of transplanting. Work the soil over a little then simply press the wrinkled seeds in by hand, burying them 5cm deep. Not only are broad beans frost-hardy, the seeds will germinate even when the soil freezes. Broad beans aren't fussy about soil conditions, flourishing in salty, soggy and sandy soils. I find it best to sow in blocks rather than rows, not for any pollination advantage but because it's easier to truss them up together within a supporting fence of stakes and string to prevent the upright plants from falling over when laden with pods. There's no such thing as a dud broad bean; every modern variety has its merits. Exhibition Long Pod has, as you'd expect, showoff pods up to 30cm long; Superaguadulce is a Spaniard with meaty seeds; and Cole's Prolific is reliably prolific. For pots, take your pick from Robin Hood (Kings Seeds), an award-winning dwarf British variety, or the delightfully named Little Leprechaun (Egmont Seeds). The most common complaint about broad beans is that, once they start flowering, they seem to take their sweet time to produce any actual pods. This is not the fault of the bean but of hibernating bees who aren't overly keen on the winter working conditions in most gardens and prefer to hunker down in their hives until the weather warms up. If you're impatient, you could give the flowers a tickle yourself with a small paintbrush (even better, give them a thrill with an electric toothbrush) to ensure that their tender pods are ready to pick for the recipes in the next issue of Nourish. And, while you wait for the bumblebees to get back to business, keep in mind that the tender tips of broad bean plants can also be nipped off and eaten like spinach, resulting in a bonus crop of steamed greens plus bushier, more compact plants.
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GARDENING
Grow your own
ginger! Some exotic crops, such as turmeric, saffron and ginger, are worth growing simply for the skite factor. But while saffron bulbs and turmeric tubers are tricky to grow, ginger is notorious for sprouting in a plastic bag in your fridge or fruit bowl. The ‘thumbs’ referred to in recipes are actually rhizomes and, provided they're not allowed to shrivel and dry, these sprout without too much trouble if wrapped in a soggy paper towel and tucked into a resealable plastic bag until their little nubs start to swell. If possible, source fresh ginger from an organic supplier, as imported supermarket ginger may have been sprayed with a growth inhibitor, though rinsing and soaking the rhizome in water for a couple of nights helps overcome this. Once the shoots and roots are visible, gently nestle the rhizome into a container of potting mix and lightly cover with more mix. Keep in a sunny spot, water regularly, and bring indoors for winter. After twelve months, dig and divide the rhizomes; all going well you'll have enough to eat, and to replant.
Lynda Hallinan Waikato born-and-raised gardening journalist Lynda Hallinan lives a mostly self-sufficient life at Foggydale Farm in the Hunua Ranges, where she grows enough food to satisfy her family, free-range chooks, kunekune pig and thieving pukekos. She has an expansive organic vegetable garden and orchards and is a mad-keen pickler and preserver.
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WINTER MEMORIES
Mum's Steamed Fruit and Sago Pudding with Real Custard WORDS WAYNE GOOD | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Sometimes, when it’s cold and miserable, you just want some comfort food, or you just want to eat a memory. This recipe is just that, a childhood memory for me, that is just so good, hence why it is memorable. My birthday falls mid-winter, and I would always ask Mum to make this for me as a birthday treat. Mum had a great term for this pudding, “a real rib sticker”. And indeed, a little goes a long way. It does take a wee bit of planning, and it is important to start this recipe the day before, with the soaking of the sago in the milk. Also, you want to use really good quality, large raisins, so I like to use the raisin medley from Vetro in Hamilton. Do not let your childhood memories of gloopy sago puddings put you off from giving this recipe a go, and yes, do make the real custard. You will never make packet custard again! STEAMED FRUIT AND SAGO PUDDING
¾ cup sago 1½ cups milk 1¼ cups fresh breadcrumbs (white or grainy bread is fine) 1 cup raisin medley (available from Vetro Hamilton) ½ cup prunes zest of a lemon 1 cup dark muscovado sugar (available from Vetro) 1 tsp mixed spice 1 tsp melted butter
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RECIPES
cooker. Add water to the pot, about a third of the way up the side of the pudding basin. Steam for 3 hours (or 45 minutes pressured). Check from time to time that the pot is not boiling dry. Once cooked, turn out onto your serving plate and serve with real custard and liquid cream. (This pudding freezes well.)
REAL CUSTARD
250ml milk 250ml cream ¼ cup caster sugar 3 tbsp cornflour 1 vanilla pod, split in half 2 egg yolks 1 egg 2 tbsp butter, softened Place the milk, cream, vanilla pod and half the sugar into a pan. Place onto the hob and bring to JUST under the boil. Remove the vanilla pod. In a separate bowl, add the remaining sugar, with the egg yolks, whole egg and cornflour, and lightly beat with a whisk. Add half a cup of the hot milk/cream, beating all the time with your whisk. Pour this back into the remaining milk/cream. Place onto a gentle heat and continue to whisk until your custard thickens. Remove from the heat immediately and place into a clean bowl. Place the softened butter on top of the custard. This helps to stop a skin forming on your custard. Prior to serving, whisk the butter into the custard and serve warm with your steamed pudding.
½ tsp baking soda mixed with 1 tbsp milk The day before, place the sago and 1½ cups of milk in a bowl and set aside in the fridge. The following day, add remaining ingredients and mix really well. Place the pudding mixture into a greased medium sized pudding basin. Do not cover the basin. Place the pudding basin into a large pot or pressure
Wayne Good Wayne Good is a chef, interior designer and travel guide. Renowned for his hospitality, Wayne’s cooking classes and tours of France are hot tickets! Discover more at www.arkanda.co.nz
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NUTRITION
warm up with
GINGER WORDS RACHEL HART | IMAGE ASHLEE DECAIRES
When we can no longer rely on the weather to warm us up, we often turn our attention to food. As the winter chill sets in, we start to enjoy the heat that stews, soups and hot chocolates can bring. And when it comes to food that offers a little fire, nothing beats ginger.
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French pastries, cheese, wine and much more all your winter comforts and treats sorted! Ginger is a flowering plant that has been growing in New Zealand since the mid-1800s. We eat the root of the plant, which can be grated or chopped, dried into a powder, pickled or even candied. Originally found in southeast Asia, it’s no surprise that ginger is widely used in cuisine from this region. Ginger is blended into curry pastes and sliced into soups; it adds zing to desserts and its pickled form is a perfect match for sushi. Ginger brings a fresh fragrance and sharp flavour to any meal, but its slightly spicy kick is far from the whole picture. Traditional Chinese medicine has celebrated ginger’s warming effect for years, and now modern scientific studies have backed up this claim, discovering several metabolic processes involved in the digestion of ginger that literally warm you up from the inside out. While ginger’s warmth makes it a much-loved ingredient in winter, its health benefits are also well documented. The spice, which has been used medicinally since the ninth century, offers vitamin C, magnesium, potassium, B vitamins and more. But this list of nutrients is just the beginning. It is also filled with antioxidants, which help your body fight the stress and oxidation that can lead to ailments like high blood pressure, heart disease and cancer. When fresh, ginger also contains a compound called gingerol, an anti-inflammatory. Gingerol acts as a natural pain reliever, helping ease symptoms of arthritis, and athletes have even noticed that regularly eating ginger can help with muscle recovery. Ginger is a friend to diabetics, helping regulate blood sugar levels and improve the function of insulin. And if you’ve ever popped a ginger lolly to combat sea, motion or morning sickness, you know of its benefit in easing nausea and settling stomachs. Similarly, it brings some relief to indigestion, reducing bloating and stimulating digestion by speeding up the process of food’s journey from stomach to gut. Here in New Zealand, a quick Google search of ginger brings up page after page of ginger crunch recipes, which is a good indicator of our favourite way to use and consume this fragrant spice! But if you’re looking to branch out this winter, there’s plenty of other ways to use it at home.
51a Riverlea Road, Riverlea, Hamilton www.lacave.co.nz
BESPOKE EVENTS AT YOUR LOCAL
Try carrot and ginger soup, ginger chicken, or braised beef with ginger. Borrow from southeast Asia and make your own curry paste or opt for a classic Kiwi ginger cake. And if you’ve caught a winter cold, simply squeeze some lemon, stir in some honey and add a slice of fresh ginger to make your own soothing drink. Get creative and enjoy warming up with ginger this winter.
Rachel Hart Hailing from Canada, Rachel has fallen in love with life in the beautiful Bay of Plenty where she is a freelance writer with a passion for healthy food. She splits her time between telling people’s stories, creating web content and experimenting in the kitchen.
CREATING INTIMATE, BESPOKE EVENTS SINCE 2016 027 537 1853 | events@hayescommon.co.nz
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... AND ALL THINGS NICE RECIPES & IMAGES AMBER BREMNER
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RECIPES
If your sofa is calling, you might be in need of fortification to power through that next binge-worthy television show. These cosy winter desserts are warmed up using both ground ginger for intensity and ginger root for freshness.
BROWN RICE PUDDING WITH ORANGE GINGER SYRUP Fragrant with ginger, orange, cinnamon and cardamom, this creamy rice pudding can be served hot, cold, or anywhere in between. I not-so-secretly adore it for breakfast. The orange ginger syrup lends brightness and sweetness and is equally good made with maple syrup or honey. Discard the orange zest if you prefer. Its bitterness pleases my negroni-loving heart, so I leave it in.
SYRUP
PUDDING
Combine pudding ingredients in a saucepan. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, until rice is very tender. It will still be quite wet but will thicken further on standing.
2 cups cooked brown rice 1 x 400ml can coconut cream 1 cup almond milk 2 tbsp maple syrup or honey 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp finely grated fresh ginger 1 tsp finely grated orange zest 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cardamom
two strips orange zest, thinly sliced thumb sized piece of fresh ginger, finely grated ½ cup fresh squeezed orange juice ¼ cup maple syrup or honey 2 tbsp water
For the syrup, use a peeler to take two strips of orange zest from an orange. Thinly slice. Grate the ginger, then squeeze its juice into a small saucepan. Add remaining syrup ingredients, then simmer for 20–30 minutes until the syrup has thickened a little. Serve pudding with a drizzle of syrup and some strips of zest if you like. Leftover syrup will keep in the fridge for at least a week.
pinch salt
now open everyday eatery hamilton zoo • 183 brymer road, hamilton everydayeatery.co.nz everydaykirikiriroa
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Amber Bremner Quite Good Food www.quitegoodfood.co.nz Amber Bremner is the author of popular plant based food blog Quite Good Food. A champion for cooking and eating food that makes you feel good, she believes small changes in the way we approach food have the power to make a difference.
GINGERBREAD SELF SAUCING PUDDING Self saucing pudding needs no introduction. This is an easy but delicious recipe that uses common pantry ingredients. With one exception – molasses, which brings dark complexity to the gingerbread flavours, while packing a nutritional punch as a great source of iron and calcium. Serve with vanilla icecream and watch it disappear. DRY
WET
2 cups self-raising flour
1 cup almond milk
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup mild flavoured oil (I used grape seed)
1 tbsp ground ginger
¼ cup molasses
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated
½ tsp mixed spice ½ tsp ground nutmeg
SAUCE
¼ tsp salt
2 cups boiling water ¾ cup brown sugar 2 tbsp golden syrup 2 tsp ground ginger
Preheat oven to 180°C fanbake. Mix dry pudding ingredients together in a large bowl. Mix wet ingredients together, then add to dry and stir to combine. Pour into a greased 8-cup capacity casserole dish. Mix sauce ingredients together until sugar is dissolved, then gently pour over the pudding (this is easiest to do with the dish already on an oven rack). Bake for 35 minutes, then allow to cool for 10–15 minutes before serving.
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F E AT U R E
Shining a Light on Great Design WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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They say birds of a feather flock together. This is evident when you see local companies like Treetown Kitchens and Mr Ralph Lighting working together, businesses that not only complement each other but hold the same values and outlook. Rachel Williamson, owner of Mr Ralph, worked with Kevin Middlemiss (owner of Treetown Kitchens) nearly 20 years ago on her kitchen. It was a workman’s cottage on King Street in Cambridge and Rachel says, “No problem was too big for Kevin. He is genuinely lovely.” It’s that initial experience working with Kevin that has led Rachel to continue the relationship with Treetown Kitchens, not just for her projects but with her own growing business. But it’s Rachel’s latest project at her house we’ve come to see. The kitchen in the 90s Huntington house was the last piece in the major renovation puzzle. Hayley Hohneck, Operations, Marketing & Design at Treetown Kitchens, says Rachel “had a really specific vision she was working to”. The key to making this vision come to life was working with the confines of the room. “Rachel was really open to our ideas,” says Hayley. “In the end we removed a door to make it work.” Key to Rachel’s vision and an example of the craftsmanship of the Treetown cabinet makers is the exquisite bespoke rangehood cover. The team didn’t stop there to execute Rachel’s dream kitchen. “Kevin went to such lengths,” says Rachel, “making up the cabinet profiles so I could see it.” At first sight, said cabinets may look like run of the mill Shaker profile but in fact they are a thinner profile that the team had to make by hand. This attention to detail runs throughout Rachel’s gorgeous kitchen, from the brass taps and handles from Abi to the carefully hidden
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but easily accessible fridge. And of course, the lighting! “People can often narrow down their cabinet choices, but lighting is so much harder,” says Hayley. When choosing lighting for your kitchen both Rachel and Hayley agree you need to think about general lighting, task lighting and then aesthetics. This is beautifully illustrated in Rachel’s kitchen which has four different types of lighting. The rattan pendant is a beautiful feature but does not shine a light on what you are chopping or mixing, for this there is track lighting. Added into the mix are the Bernard lights that are a feature but also create spot lighting. And finally, there are the wall dot lights adding extra light to the room. Hayley points out that “kitchens are no longer hidden away. They are now pieces of art, and lighting is a key part.” And this is why you can now find Mr Ralph lighting at the Treetown Kitchens showroom and will find a Treetown Kitchen in the newly expanded Mr Ralph showroom in Gordonton at the end of this year.
HAYLEY’S KITCHEN TRENDS • Colour – White kitchens will always be timeless, but we are seeing clients being braver with colour. Increasingly popular are the moodier black or grey kitchens, and the introduction of a range of colours from Laminex has meant an increase in popularity of sage greens and deep blues. • Curves – While traditionally kitchens are very square, we are seeing a growing demand for curves, which helps to soften the space. We are seeing this in curved island benches, or the halfround panelling used as a feature on island backs or walls. • Feature panelling – This is becoming really popular, and with
a range of feature panelling readily available it is both easy and affordable to incorporate this into the kitchen design; for example, on the back and sides of the island and then carry this through other areas in the home. • Bar areas – A kitchen is such a key feature in a home and where a lot of the living is done, so the designs are now extending beyond just a kitchen and including a bar area to extend the entertaining ability of the space. • Reeded glass – This beautiful glass is a great way to add some elegance and interest to a kitchen, whilst still maintaining some privacy (and less need for dusting!). This is particularly popular in over cupboards and bar areas. • Porcelain benchtops – We are seeing a growing interest in porcelain benchtops like Neolith, Dekton, Laminam and Florim. Not only do they offer a user-friendly benchtop that is less maintenance than natural and engineered stones, but the 12mm thinner profile is sleek and classy. • Shaker style – This style of kitchen continues to be popular, with its timeless sophistication and the ability to adapt to various styles. While the traditional thicker profile remains popular, we are seeing a growing interest in the thinner 20mm profile, which really modernises the look.
RACHEL’S LIGHTING TRENDS • A move to natural, organic materials like clay or wood. People are wanting texture and warmth. • In kitchens more and more people are clustering pendants down one end of the island and relying on LED recessed or spots to provide the functional lighting. We're also seeing the use of two gorgeous statement pieces or a move towards a simple, sleek lineal fitting over the kitchen island and then going crazy in the dining or lounge with super decorative lighting. • In the dining room the options are endless because you can lower the pendant here, which means that in a 2.4m stud situation, this might be your only chance to inject personality (except lamps and wall lights, of course). Opal glass and larger flatter pieces that hover are in demand, along with clustering (you can pick your absolute favourite small pendant and cascade them vertically or horizontally across the table). • Wall lights are back.
• Excitingly people are becoming more experimental and confident with their lighting choices. • Always make sure you have a dimmer! The dining table is a place of family congregation, homework and intimate dining – this way, you can match the need with the correct amount of light. treetownkitchens.co.nz mrralph.co.nz
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WHAT I DO WITH
WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
There’s a good chance that if you’ve made hummus at home before, you have a jar of tahini lying around in the fridge. But have you thought of how else to use it? I asked a few of my local insiders about how they use tahini. Tahini is a smooth paste made from grinding hulled and lightly toasted sesame seeds. The earliest mentions of this ancient paste date back to 3500BC. It is hugely popular in the Middle Eastern PAGE 70 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
food scene and is also widely used in Israeli, Chinese, Korean, Japanese and African cuisines. It would be rude not to mention the importance of tahini in hummus. Creamy, nutty and rich, hummus would be bland without tahini. Along with smoothness and depth of flavour, tahini adds a range of vitamins and minerals to the already nutritious dip. Tahini has the same effect in baba ganoush, a smoky eggplant dip. Lisa Quarrie from Hayes Common told me that “many people mistakenly add oil for creaminess, but it’s the tahini that will give you that and keep your dips light”.
NOURISH
Justin Thompson from The Shack Raglan adds tahini to a lemony yoghurt sauce. The nutty sesame notes balance out sour yoghurt and it’s beautiful over pan-fried fish with fresh mint and pomegranate seeds. He also thickens up this yoghurt for a tahini labneh and spreads it on sourdough toast with a drizzle of honey and walnut dukkah. Haedyn Woollaston from Ernest mixes tahini with lemon, Raglan Coconut yoghurt, ground cumin and coriander seeds for a dressing over energy bowls. Turn tahini into a staple dressing for your fridge by whisking it together with olive oil, lemon, maple syrup and salt. Take this base dressing and play with the flavours and consistency. The turmeric tahini dressing from Hayes Common has always been popular but you could use any winter citrus, Middle Eastern spices or zingy flavoured vinegars. Use this dressing over roasted cauliflower, crispy falafels, a winter nourish bowl or wok-fried broccoli.
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something a little naughty, stir into a hot chocolate. However you decide to use tahini, you’ll love the rich creaminess of the Middle Eastern staple. QUICK WAYS WITH TAHINI (available from Vetro): · Stir into yoghurt · Make into a salad dressing · Use as a nut butter substitute · Add to brownies, cookies or banana bread · Blend into smoothies · Use in hummus and baba ganoush
Brigid Sullivan from La Cave uses tahini in Chinese cooking since sesame is an integral part of their cuisine. She says it can be used in any variety of combinations with miso, soy sauce, honey, lime, fish sauce, oyster sauce, rice wine vinegar and sesame oil for dressings and marinades. The use of peanut butter in baking is limitless with thousands of recipes at one’s disposal. But have you thought of swapping out the classic peanut butter for tahini? The sesame paste lends an earthy and less sickly-sweet flavour. Brigid uses tahini as a substitute of any nut butter, particularly in biscuits, brownies and banana bread. Speaking of banana bread, Weave Eatery’s head chef Ashleigh Brodie’s favourite take on the classic is her banana, dark chocolate and tahini loaf recipe. Toasted with lashings of butter, it’s a must try! When I worked for chef Maurice Montero, co-owner of the new Everyday Eatery, he taught me the recipe for his tahini granola. I loved the way it deepened the nuttiness of the granola and worked with the maple syrup to create a crunchy coating. If you’re lucky, he might put this on the menu at Everyday. I love putting a spoonful of tahini in my banana smoothies and, if you have them on hand, add Medjool dates in the mix too. Add it into bliss balls or muesli slice for a healthy snack or, for
Family owned award winning butchery Providing wholesale & retail customers with top quality, locally sourced meat since 1939 Find our Pulled Meats in-store, online and at selected Four Squares & New Worlds in the Waikato
SHOP INSTORE: 81b Jacobs St, Te Awamutu SHOP online: www.magills.co.nz
Wholesale: gary@magills.co.nz or 0272502920
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MODERN-DAY CLASSICS BY BEVAN SMITH WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGE EMMA WILLETTS
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PARMESAN TART WITH RED ONION JAM SERVES 10
1 egg yolk ¾ cup red onion jam
I must confess, I am a big fan of Bevan Smith. I love Riverstone Kitchen – the ethos and the food. I have all of Bevan’s previous cookbooks, so when asked if I wanted a copy of his latest, Modern-Day Classics, I was quick to say yes. I know, it’s a perk of the job being sent wonderful cookbooks. But the truth is, they are not all wonderful. What I love about Riverstone Kitchen and Bevan’s cookbooks is they are all about simple food done well. Now this is an overused term, but in this case it’s very true. I’ve already dirtied a few of the pages as I made the classic Kiwi chocolate chip cookies with condensed milk.
1 tbsp thyme, finely chopped 8 free-range eggs 800ml cream 150g Parmesan, ground
Remove from refrigerator and blind bake for 20 minutes or until the entire base of the pastry is golden brown. Remove baking beans and brush egg yolk over the inside of the pastry case. Place back into the oven for one minute. This will seal any cracks
RED ONION JAM
½ tsp salt
MAKES 3 X 300G JARS
¼ tsp black pepper
80ml olive oil
salad greens, to serve extra virgin olive oil
1kg red onions, peeled and sliced
Preheat oven to 200°C. Brush egg yolk over the inside of the tart pastry and place empty tart case into the oven for 1 minute for the egg yolk to cook and seal the tart pastry to help prevent any leaks.
¼ cup soft brown sugar
Reduce oven temperature to 160°C. Spread red onion jam evenly over the bottom of the tart base and sprinkle with thyme. Whisk eggs, cream, Parmesan, parsley, salt and pepper together and pour gently into the tart base. Bake for 50–60 minutes, or until the tart is just set.
REVIEW
baking paper on to the pastry and fill with baking beans and refrigerate pastry for 15 minutes.
¼ cup parsley, roughly chopped
¼ cup red wine vinegar 2 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped Heat olive oil in a heavy-based pot over a medium heat. Add onion and sweat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent colouring. Reduce heat to low, add sugar and vinegar, and cook for a further 20–30 minutes. When onion is very soft and cooking juices have reduced to nearly nothing, stir in thyme. Store in sterilised jars for up to two months in the refrigerator.
Remove from oven and allow to cool completely. With a sharp serrated knife, cut and discard excess pastry from the top and outer sides of the tart tin. Remove tart from the tin and cut into slices.
If you visit Riverstone Kitchen, you can visit the massive kitchen garden which is at the heart of the food philosophy and ensures seasonality is key. So you will find beautiful dishes celebrating produce through the seasons from corn and beetroot in the summer to Brussels sprouts and cavolo nero in the cooler months.
Reheat on a baking paper-lined tray for 5–6 minutes in a 200°C oven. Serve with salad greens and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
The real gem in this book though is at the back with the Everyday Basics section. Here you will find those key recipes you will use again and again. Sure, there is a section on making sourdough and there may still be a few of you out there keen to give this a go. As I’ve previously confessed, I don’t have the patience or the time and would prefer to buy a beautiful loaf. Although I am the person who makes my own custard and aioli and pastry and this section has some tried and true recipes for these as well as gnocchi, quince paste and tomato chilli jam to name a few.
MAKES 1 X 28CM PASTRY CASE
Whether you have been to Riverstone Kitchen or not (if not put it on your list!) if cooking delicious food from scratch is your thing, this is the book for you.
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Parmesan tart will keep in refrigerator for up to one week.
SAVOURY SHORT CRUST PASTRY 150g unsalted cold butter, cubed 2 cups plain flour 1 pinch salt 2 tbsp chilled water 1 free-range egg yolk Preheat oven to 180°C. Place butter, flour and salt into a food processor and pulse until butter is fully incorporated into the flour. With blade still running add water and continue to pulse until a soft dough is formed. Roll dough out on a lightly floured bench top until 3–4mm thick. Gently roll dough onto the rolling pin and drape over a baking paper-lined 28cm tart tin with 4cm-high sides. Gently mould pastry into the tart tin, ensuring the pastry is pushed into the bottom edge of the tin. Place a piece of
Extracted with permission from Riverstone Kitchen Modern-Day Classics © Bevan Smith, $44.99 RRP (distributed by Upstart Press)
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EVENTS WAIKATO FARMER’S MARKETS Where local and convenience collide, the Waikato Farmer’s Markets are on every weekend come rain, hail or shine. Cambridge Farmer’s Market, every Saturday 8am–12noon, Victoria Square Hamilton Farmer’s Market, every Sunday 8am–12noon, The Barn, Claudelands www.waikatofarmersmarkets.co.nz SWEET PEA PARTIES Sweet Pea Parties cake decorating classes are here, from beginner classes to kid’s cupcake making. Check out their website to keep up to date. www.sweetpeaparties.co.nz THE 59TH NATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL The National Jazz Festival has been entertaining hundreds of thousands of residents and visitors to Tauranga for 58 years. 20–26 June www.jazz.org.nz NOURISH AND NZ WINTER TRUFFLE CLASSES Join Vicki in her kitchen and discover how to cook and enjoy beautiful NZ Winter Truffles. Go home with full tummies, recipes and a truffle to try out what you learned. Cost $175pp Sunday 3 July, 11am www.nourishmagazine.co.nz/shop GREAT NEW ZEALAND FOOD SHOW Let The Great New Zealand Food Show take your tastebuds on a culinary journey. Experience a fantastic day out with family and friends, sampling the latest foods, wines and delicious products. 16–17 July Claudelands Events Centre, Hamilton www.greatnzfoodshow.co.nz
YANA MEECH EXHIBITION Yana Meech is a local Katikati painter. Her work is predominantly ink and acrylic on canvas. Her style ranges from contemporary abstract cityscapes and landscapes to seascapes and florals. Gallery Te Puna Late July through August 15E Minden Road, Te Puna www. gallerytepuna.com www.yanameech.com MOUNT MAUNGANUI HALF MARATHON Come explore Mount Maunganui for a running festival including a 21km half marathon, 10km and 5km options. The course is flat and fast and will finish on the beautiful beaches of Mount Maunganui where you can celebrate your efforts with friends and family. 27 August www.mountmaunganuihalfmarathon.co.nz EVENTS AT FALLS RETREAT Gather Experience Experience and gather in Falls organic veggie gardens followed by a delicious two course seasonal lunch. Thursday 23rd June | $120pp Matariki Paddock to Plate Experience 4 courses celebrating Māori New year. Sat June 25th | $120pp The Full Monty Gardening Workshop A comprehensive workshop covering all the fundamentals of growing organic, nutrient dense healthy veggies. Sat July 2nd | $150pp www.fallsretreat.co.nz
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MARKETPLACE Yana Meech ARTIST
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