Novum Magazine by Frida Jonsdottir

Novum Magazine Novum Magazine

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ÝR: A fashion designer with an edge

10 interview with London 0 An based fashion designer: 13 Rakel Sórós

Meet the Band: Gipsy Train

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Meet the band: Nelson Can

22 Novum wants 27 Front page: From: YR collections Photo: YR collections

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Ut eu libero

ÝR: A fashion designer with an edge Name: Ýr Þrastardóttir Country: Iceland Occupation: Fashion Designer Age: 28 Website: www.yrcollections.com

After graduating from the Icelandic Academy of the Arts in 2010 you went straight into creating your own label and founded YR the same year. How did it feel taking that risk? Did you ever feel scared or like you had made a mistake?

I can imagine that you don’t regret starting your own label now that it has become such a success. One critic at the last Reykjavik Fashion Festival even wrote that YR had been the best collection there, so good that they got goose bumps and forgot to take pictures! How does it feel getting reviews like that?

Well, I can't say that I ever feel like I've made a mistake by starting my own business. It's been rough though, financially, and I made a lot of mistakes in the process, but I've gained so much experience from it instead which I feel is priceless. The journey from a sketch to a finalized, manufactured product is something we learn little about in school, and the fact that I did that with my first collection has taught me more about the design business than anything else. I'm always a bit scared when I'm taking important decisions but I try to consult with as many as possible for different advice.

I would perhaps not say that it is a great success yet, or at least it has never paid my bread. It's great of course to get reviews like that, but I really can’t see it, I've been much more focused on the fact that I'm going to do this and that so much better next time. I think that as soon as a designer finishes one collection, they are already sick of it and want to do a new one. Or at least that’s me. What has been the best moment of your career? Probably was it when I got my first prototypes from India. My sister and me where totally freaking out in excitement over it. We had gone together to India to meet up with the manufacturer and it had been a real hassle to deal with them. I feel everything in Iceland is possible and if not it

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it is made possible, but with this factory they where always saying "this not possible", "this no" and so on. So when we finally got our collection we really didn't know what to expect but I remember I've never been so exited. What is your average day like? The past couple of months have been spent in front of the sewing machine, making prototypes of the A/W 2012,

“I made a lot of mistakes in the process, but I've gained so much experience from it instead which I feel is priceless.”

print came from a Persian carped seller that came here this winter with all kinds of beautiful hand painted things. I took a picture of one of his cups and I worked the print from there. Finally, what’s next on your horizon? I want to study more and I want to move abroad, so I guess my next move is to find the perfect school and hope for the best. I hear it’s hard to get into these master programs in fashion but I think I'm ready to give it a shot. Photographer:

which was showcased at the RFF. Normally though I'm just working on other private projects. Today I'm doing some architectural drawings for a Hostel my boyfriend is working on, I am also preparing a job as a costume designer for the Icelandic Dance Party and sketching a new collection for another Icelandic fashion label. Your design is very edgy yet feminine. What is your inspiration? There are so many different inspirations in general, but I always start my work by choosing a theme and then look for inspiration that connects with that. My latest collection was inspired by the old soviet military uniform combined with 18th century corselets and Karl Lagerfeld shirts. I then modernized my inspiration into this collection by researching some different pattern techniques and the materials where all mainly ordered in from classic Italian wool manufactures. I also used some printed chiffon, the inspiration for the

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8 8 Photos: YR collections

ÝR @ Reykjavik Fashion Festival 2012

Photographer: 9 Friðrik Örn 9

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+ Meet the Band:

Gipsy Train

Gipsy Train is a band from the Faroe Island. The two minds behind this project are Rasmus Bordoy (Guitarist, composer) & Bardur Næs (Singer, composer). They started the project in 2010 with other people, but now they’ve chosen to take a step further and recently moved to Copenhagen. They have one out album called ‘The Flying Dutchman’ which came out last year and we can’t wait to hear Names: Bardur Næs & Rasmus Bordoy Country: Denmark at the moment. It changes from time to time. Ages: 19 Genre: Gipsy Surf Rock Website: www.facebook.com/gipsytrain What made you start a band together? Did you all know each otherbeforehand? It started with a crazy chemistry. We, Rasmus & Bardur, had just come home from living in Denmark for a year. And after meeting up several times we ended up jamming. Rasmus was planning to move back to Copenhagen to play with another Reggae band called Pakalolo. But we saw that Gipsy Train could turn out to be the craziest shit ever existed. So after that we collected some of our musician-homies and started playing. What’s your average day like? Do you spend a lot of time in the studio or practicing? The last month has been filled up a tour in Iceland, concerts in Faroe Islands and Denmark. And we went to the studio to record a new single to release in end of May. But when not working we hang out, make music and meditate.

You’ve been playing in other countries besides the Faroe Islands, including Iceland and Denmark. What’s that like? Do you go crazy and trash the hotel room like old school rock stars? It’s amazing! We love it. The whole band did get kicked out of some apartments though, but in the end things always end up being just fine. If you had to describe each other with one word, what would it be? Brothers! The best moment since you started? The last 2 years have been filled with so many great moments it’s unbelievable. We’re always on the road with the guys, and always having good times. Recording our album ‘The Flying Dutchman’ is one of our best times. 10 10

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What are your upcoming shows/projects? We have festivals during the summer around Scandinavia, including the G! Festival in Faroe Islands and then we are planning to go in the studio to record an upcoming album later this year. We put everything into Gipsy Train, and then do some other stuff, every now and then, to pay our rent.

“The last 2 years have been filled with so many great moments it’s unbelievable.” What is the ultimate dream? It’s probably to make enough money and then never have to do anything again.. Even though leaving some footsteps would surely be quite privileged in this weird society we live in.

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An interview with London based fashion designer: Rakel Sólrós

Ut eu libero

Name: Rakel Sólrós Country: Iceland but currently living in London Occupation: Design Assistant for a supplier of Topshop, Primark and other high street brands. Age: 24 Website: www.rakelsolros.com So, what have you been up to lately? I’ve been working very hard at my new job as a design assistant where everything basically has to be done yesterday, but as I can never have enough to do I’ve also been designing a wedding dress for a singer in Iceland and taking a course at London College of Fashion. How did you get into fashion designing? My first proper step into fashion was when I attended a course at the Fashion Institute of Fashion in New York in 2007. After that I got accepted into Iceland Academy of Arts and the ball

started rolling where I absolutely immersed myself into fashion design and did 2 internships (in Paris and New York) while studying. I then graduated in spring 2010. When did you decide you wanted to be a fashion designer? I was 9 years old when I was sewing clothes for my Barbie dolls as well as drawing pictures of girls in various clothing. At 12, I bought my first sewing machine for which my parents and grandparents all chipped in. I still use that very machine today. At the same age I discovered fashion design and I instantly knew that this was something I wanted to do when I grew up.

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What’s the best part about being a designer?

Being able to create and style every day, getting paid for doing what I love, the people you meet are often the most amazing people on the planet (and the most dramatic!) and just being a part of this huge industry that we call fashion.

“I got a recognition for my collection from the Danish designer Henrik Vibskov. That is one of the biggest compliments I’ve gotten for my design.” Favorite designer/s? Why?

“At 12, I bought my first sewing machine for which my parents and grandparents all chipped in. I still use that very machine today.”

Again, so many! But I think Alexander McQueen will always be my favorite designer because he was such an inspiration and had the best showmanship. Others that come to mind are Gareth Pugh, Alexander Wang, Ann Demeulemeester, Balmain, Sonia Rykiel and Isabel Marant. What does the immediate future hold for you?

What’s the hardest part about being a designer then? The long hours! For a very long time while you are working your way up you won’t get paid because you need to do internships to break your way into the industry. I am very fortunate to be finally working in the fashion industry and getting paid! Favorite moment of your career? It’s so hard to pick one! In the summer of 2010 I showed my graduation collection at the LungA art festival in Iceland and I got a recognition for my collection from the Danish designer Henrik Vibskov. That is one of the biggest compliments I’ve gotten for my design. Also, meeting designer Anna Sui when I was an intern for her label in New York was great. The most recent moment is when I finally got a paid job in the industry, I couldn’t stop smiling!

I’m going to continue working as a design assistant for at least the next few months and right now my goal is to work my way up. The high street market is so fun and fast, I work on so many prototypes everyday so I’m never bored! But on the side I’m going to make one-off pieces when I have the time. What’s your ultimate goal in life when it comes to designing? Wow, big question. When I was in university I always felt I had to create something new, something nobody had every thought of using as material, and not so much about what sells. But now I feel it’s more about the big picture. The brand you create, the story and the feeling people get when they want to buy something from your brand. I’m not necessarily saying that I want to start my own brand, who knows what will happen in the future, but what I want to experience is working for a brand that I feel gives you something, a power to express yourself through fashion. But my ultimate goal is to never stop creating. I never want to get sucked into the industry so much that I don’t have the time to sit down and draw. 14 14

15 Photographer: María Guðrún Rúnarsdóttir 15

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Meet the band: Nelson Can Names: Signe Tobiassen, Tami Harmony Panik Vibberstoft, Selina Lannie. Country: Denmark Ages: 21,22 and 22 Genre(s): Riot Grrrl, Rock, Indie-rock Website: www.nelsoncan.com

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So when did you start the band? Were you all friends before?

Signe: We went to high school together and had a band back then as well. We had been talking about it for a couple of months before we actually started Nelson Can. We had some money left from our former band and decided to try and

“At first I don’t think I really understood it. Like it wasn’t true, but now it’s getting more and more real, and I get goose bumps whenever I talk about it.” record some new songs. We didn’t really talk about playing the music live. I called Noah Rosanes and asked him if we could use his studio, and if he would help us out. I spent a couple of days convincing him, and then in March 2011 we recorded the first two songs: Apple Pie and Electricity. You’re booked to play at a lot of shows. Even Roskilde! How is that? Do you ever get overwhelmed/tired or is it always just fun? Selina: Yeah, it’s sooooo cool! I think it really surprised us. In my opinion this is the best experience ever! I never get tired of it – not mentally anyway. I mean psychically it can be pretty demanding from time to time with all the travelling from Amsterdam to Denmark all most every weekend, however, besides that, it’s the most awesome thing in the world! Being on stage is such an amazing feeling! Actually – I sometimes find myself totally ecstatic when we play on stage and it’s almost the same feeling when you fall in love. I’m in love with Nelson Can. Signe: It’s really, really great! Every time I say “we’re playing at Roskilde” to someone I get more and more excited

about it. At first I don’t think I really understood it. Like it wasn’t true, but now it’s getting more and more real, and I get goose bumps when ever I talk about it. Our calendar is very heavily booked this spring, and we get to play a lot of concerts in front of a lot of amazing people, and it is absolutely fantastic! It’s an honor to travel around Denmark and Northern Europe and get to play in front of so many amazing people. How did you get to this stage, where you’re known and playing at a lot of shows? Was it hard? Tami: It wasn't exactly the original idea to get this far. I just wanted to record some noise actually. I didn't expect anyone to like it. It was only to make something the three of us – for the three of us. I think everything changed as soon as we realised that a lot of people actually liked our music. Signe: How did we get here? Sometimes we ask ourselves that question. I don’t feel like I’m

“It’s a full time job. The best I’ve ever had.” “known”, and it’s difficult for me to understand it when people I don’t know recognize me or write comments on twitter, Facebook, YouTube or something like that. Sometimes I still think: “Who are these people? How did they find us?” - Because I can’t really see it from an outer perspective. I just see my two best friends and me. I’m not going to say that it was hard to reach this point, but it wasn’t easy either. We have gotten so much help from so many incredible people including our producer Noah Rosanes, who really helped us a lot. A lot of the things we struggle with are on a personal level more than on a professional level. We’re in our early twenties and in the middle of each our education. We weren’t prepared for the success we have now. Not at all. We were in another world when this happened. It feels like it happened over 23 23

We’re starting to understand what’s going on now though, and we’re spending all of our time on it at the moment. It takes A LOT of time to book shows, make songs, rehearse, book plane tickets, make arrangements for places to sleep, giving interviews, making music videos etc. - It’s a full time job. The best I’ve ever had. What’s the best part about being in a band? Signe: Two things: Selina and Tami <3 Tami: When all our energy comes together in one big explosion! We performed at a book release the 27th of April with the most awesome audience and great energy among the three of us. And this resulted in a powerful, adrenalin filled gig. The best moment since you started? Selina: When we realized that we can call ourselves musicians now. In the beginning we didn’t think we fit the part because we actually just grabbed the instruments and tried them without knowing how to play (Except Signe who could play the bass all along). We are not the best musicians in the world but together we make fantastic and simple music. Since we recorded our EP we have made better and better songs – maybe because we didn’t have to rush it this time! J Tami: There are so many! One nice moment was the first time we were played at Danish radio P6. I knew they were going to play our song Apple Pie and I was sitting alone in my student house in The Netherlands waiting with hard beating heart. That felt quite unreal. What’s the craziest memory you have together? Selina: When Signe called me and said: “We are going to play at ROSKILDE!!!!!”. The feelings that went through me at that exact moment, I mean… I was ecstatic.

Now I had to find out if I wanted to do this for real. And hell yeah I wanted to! Signe: Wooh, don’t get me started. We’re crazy people. I think it’s crazy that when we called Noah Rosanes and asked him to be our producer, we told him that we had a band and that we had material and all that… but of course we didn’t. We booked two days in his studio – still without having ANY material. It wasn’t until the night before we went to record in his studio, that we wrote our first song. You might know it. It’s called Apple Pie. J Your favorite bands individually? Signe: The Gossip and The White Stripes. Selina: The Doors, The Gossip, Muddy Waters, Tom Waits, Patti Smith and Pj Harvey. Tami: The Black Keys, Old Crow Medicine Show... eeeh.. it also really depends. What’s the dream? Signe: Signing a record deal with Third Man Records and touring the U.S. in an old shitty van. So what’s next? Selina: Yeah well… I WANT TO ROCK ON!

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Nelson Can Photographer: Tam Vibberstoft 25 www.tamvibberstoft.dk/

Novum wants: Album: Mesopotamia by Sykur. Genre: Electronic dance music. Country: Iceland It came out in 2011 but if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t listened to it yet you should! Buy it here: www.gogoyoko.com/album/Mesopotamia

Clothing: T-shirts by FEJClothes. Country: Sweden It is an independent T-shirt label in MalmĂś, run by Frida, Elin og Josefine, that sells unique handmade tees with screen printed motives by artists in Sweden. Buy it here: www.fejclothes.com

Jewelry: A leather bracelet w/symbol from JEWLSCPH. Country: Denmark It is a jewelry company, founded by Mai Manniche, and offers jewelry for both men and women. Buy it here: www.jewlscph.com

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Clothing: This amazing dress by Kristian Aadnevik. Country: Norway He is one of the hottest designers at the moment. Buy it here: www.kristianaadnevik.com

Clothing: This incredibly cool ‘Thor’ leather jacket by Mundi.

Country: Iceland He is one of Iceland’s popular and innovative designers and designs clothing for both men and women. Buy it here: store.mundivondi.net

Interior: This fascinating modular lamp ‘The Ceiling’ by Sofie Brunner at Brunner Studio. Country: Denmark It is combined of several modules and each module can be open and closed individually to customize the light level. See more here: sofiebrunner.com

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