Contents 0 Time Plan 0 Situation & Brief 0 Research Plan 0 Dress Sizing 0 Product Analysis 0 Client Profile 0 Consumer Survey 0 Materials 0 Industrial Manufacturing 0 Health and Safety Standards 0 Environmental, Moral and Social Issues 0 Trend Forecast 0 Mood Board 0 Research Analysis 0 Specification 0 Initial Ideas 0 Modeling & Development 0 Manufacturing 0 Testing 0 Evaluation
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Time Plan 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 Week 13/04/2013 Date 29/11/2012 12/06/2012 13/12/2012 20/12/2012 27/12/2012 03/01/2013 10/01/2013 17/01/2013 24/01/2013 31/01/2013 07/02/2013 14/02/2013 21/02/2013 28/02/2013 07/03/2013 14/03/2013 21/03/2013 28/03/2013 04/04/2013 11/04/2013 18/04/2013 Situation/Brief Research Plan Mood Board Consumer Survey Product Analysis Specifictions Initial Ideas Consumer Feedback Modelling Development Material Testing Final Idea - Presentation of Idea Manufacturing Industrial, Social, Environment, Ethical Evaluation
I made a time plan to manage my time effectively. The time plan is there to help we meet my target and to make sure nothing is missed out, so that the work is not left till last minute. – Show when I started the process – Show when I completed the process
Looking at the Time plan you can see that initially I was successful in either finishing before or on my deadlines. However, after consumer feedback and modelling, the processes took much longer than expected due to different issues, like changing the final design and etc.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Background
The fashion industry is a universal enterprise devoted to the business of manufacturing and selling clothes. The fashion industry emerged after the 19th century, prior to that most clothing was custom made . Clothing was handmade by individuals, either home made or the were made by tailors and dressmakers. When new technologies, like the swing machine, emerged global capitalism increased and the factory system of production developed, clothing had increasingly become mass-produced in standard sizes. “Although the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, today it is an international and highly globalized industry, with clothing often designed in one country, manufactured in another, and sold world-wide.” Within Qatar fashion is increasingly becoming popular. This is shown through people being more concerned what they wear. “United Development Company and Doha/Amsterdam-based Zoul Projects, will stage Qatar’s first international fashion week at the region’s most glamorous address ‘The Pearl-Qatar’ from November 7 to 10, 2012” Qatar hosting its first fashion week shows how popular fashion has become.
Situation
Female student in the 17-24 age range, tend to need a new dress for their prom. The majority of the time the students look for affordable options as either they are non-earning or they do not have enough money to buy themselves an expensive fashion garment. But, although they want the dress to be affordable they expect it also to be of high quality. Another thing to note is that most prom dresses are used only once, this is because many females go for long, elegant evening gowns which can not be re-worn for normal parties but only for special occasions. However, they do not end up wearing the dresses for even the special occasions because they do not want to be seen repeating an outfit they have already previously worn. So I have to come up with a suitable solution to allow the consumer to have further use for the dress.
Brief
I intend to design and manufacture a multifunctional prom dress. ℘ The fashion garment is to be suitable for a female in the 17-24 age range. ℘ Another thing to note is that the garment has to be affordable not expensive and also high quality, so make sure not to use materials of very high values. ℘ Also I will need to use the sewing machine, CAD CAM and other DT workshop tools where ever possible as these designs are to be one off designs. ℘ Make sure to use different materials textiles to have a variety. ℘ And most importantly the dress is to be suitable for the client, this can be done by taking into account their choice and preference.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research Plan Generic Areas Function & User Needs • •
What is it to be used for? What does the product need to do?
Materials • • • • •
•
Which materials will I use for my products? What is the value of the material? What tools will be needed to make the product from the materials? What materials will appeal to the client? What finishes can be added to the material? What haberdashery items can be used for the product? i.e. trims, motifs, beads, etc.
Aesthetics • • •
How detailed or simple does the design have to be? What styles are there in different fashion apparel? What colours appeal to the client?
Social and Moral Issues • •
Will it be an eco-design? How will you make it environmentally friendly?
Nismah Siddique
List methods I will use to research information
How will this help my designing?
Interviewing Consumers, Internet AQA text book Books
This will tell how the products are to be used and why.
Technology-student.com AQA text book The consumer survey Internet Books Going to shops
This will help me know which materials are to be used as well as their value because my client needs the end product to be affordable. And also how I will make the product, using what tools.
Technology-student.com AQA text book The consumer survey Internet Product evaluation Books
This will help me determine what style I would like for my product to have and what colour would appeal to the client.
Technology-student.com AQA text book Internet
This will help me know how I can make my product more green.
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research Plan Generic Areas Manufacturing • What tools will be needed to make the product from the materials? • What process techniques can I use? • What decorating processes are available?
Safety • How will you make it safer?
Ergonomics • What size will the dress made for? • Will it be adjustable, to fit all sizes. • How accessible will the zips and openings be for the consumer? • How will you measure the consumer
Nismah Siddique
List methods I will use to research information
How will this help my designing?
Technology-student.com AQA text book The consumer survey Internet Books
This will help me see which tools and techniques are to be used when I am manufacturing.
Look at existing product to help (product evaluation) Internet AQA text book
From this I will know how to make the dress more safer, so that the user is not hurt in any way.
Look at existing product to help (product evaluation) Internet
This will help me make the dress more suitable for the consumer and easier to use.
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Dress Sizing From: http://www.bestbridalprices.com/measure.php
Bust: To measure the bust you have to wrap the measuring tape across the fullest part of the breasts . Arms should be down and relaxed to get an accurate measurement. Natural Waist The measuring tape should be wrapped around the torso at the smallest part of the waist, this is normally an inch above the belly button. Hips Measure the widest part of the hips, which is across the hip bone. Hollow to Hem Start the tape at the hollow at the base of your neck and measure down to where you want the hem. If your skirt is to be full, you have to measure out at an angle. When measuring you should be wearing the same height oh heels as you will on the day to make sure the measurement is accurate. Low Hip Find your Natural Waist and then measure around your hips 7 inches below that. Inside Sleeve Straighten the arm and then measure from the armpit to the wrist. Arm Girth Arm should be relaxed for the measurement to be accurate. Measure around the largest part of the upper arm. Center Back Width Measurement from shoulder blade to shoulder blade. Waist to Hem Measure from your Natural Waist to where the client wants the hem to be. When measuring you should be wearing the same height oh heels as you will on the day to make sure the measurement is accurate. Nape to Waist Measurement is from the base of the neck at the back to the Natural Waist.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Back
Product Analysis Boning Here
Front
How was it made? The bodice, skirt and satin detail would each have been made separately using patterns and then sewed together using a sewing machine. When you feel the bodice of the dress you can feel the boning in the front and back, this would have been sewed into the seams within the bodice to help the strapless dress stay in place and give it a structured look.(Fig. 1) Darts were added to the bodice to give it more detail and make it more aesthetically appealing to the consumer. (Fig, 2) The pleated satin detail at the waist is there to flatter the curves of the consumer. (Fig. 3) The skirt of the dress is gathered below the bust to emphasise it. (Fig 4) The waterfall drape on the skirt would have been made by pining the material around the bodice, right side out, and then the any fabric which is not needed will be removed after that the pleats on the dress would have been added. As the material frays very easily, a serger has been used to serge the raw edges of the dress to make the material more durable as it will protect the edges so they do not fray anymore. However this has been used only in the lining because it isn’t aesthetically pleasing (Fig.5) To achieve more flare, the manufacturer made the skirt using panels and then sewed them together. When you turn the dress inside out, you can see that a French seam has been used to join them. (Fig, 6)
Front Fig. 3
Dress 1
Fig. 1
Back
Darts
Fig. 4 Fig. 2
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
The spaghetti straps of the dress are detachable to allow the user to wear it as a strapless or a sleeveless dress, this gives the consumer a choice depending on what they prefer. The straps are attached to a plastic hook, which is made from a thermosetting plastic because if it were made from a thermo plastic when exposed to a lot of heat it would deform, which would mean the dress straps would not be able to be attached and detached. The straps are made from the same silk georgette the dress is made from, this is done to keep the design consistent. As the georgette is a thin material, the manufacturer have doubled it in the strap to make it stronger, so that it is less likely to snap. The loops in which the straps are to be attached are made from silk doubled over because it has great tensile strength meaning it can withstand a great pulling pressure. This is important because when the consumer wears the dress they may pull the straps to make it the right size for them, so it is important the straps don’t come out of the dress. The zip is placed on the left side of the dress to make it easier for the consumer to open and close the dress as it is more accessible. The zip would have been sewed onto the material using a zipper foot, without the presser foot Nismah Siddique applying pressure to the zipper teeth.
Product Analysis
The zip is the same colour as the dress so that it can keep the design consistent and also so that the zip is not prominent when consumer wears it. There is also a hook sewed at the top of the zip, this is done so that it is easier for the consumer to close the zip instead of holding it at the top, the hook does that for the consumer. It is an empire waisted dress. The skirt flows down loosely beneath. This waistline is used to emphasise the bust and also gives long and slender look. Silk georgette is used here because of its bouncy flowing look which is achieved by having the threads in the material to be very highly twisted causing the fabric to crinkle when it is relaxed (having a crepe like texture). It is also used because although it is a lightweight material it is unusually strong and durable as it can hold up well to varied wear. Another reason it was used is because it drapes very well as it is a thin and light weight material also because of this when layered it does not give a bulky or heavy feel. The reason there is a cheaper opaque material beneath the georgette is because the georgette is thin, it is translucent therefore lining has to be added below. The dress, overall, is very simple this is because a lot of decorations can cause the fabric to drag down and pull the garment out of shape. The lining is made from acetate, it is a synthetic fiber which is very similar to silk but it is water resistant, shrink resistant and does Design Technology not wrinkle easily. These characteristics make is suitable to be a lining.
Dress 1
Inside the dress there is a tag which tells the consumer how the dress is to be used and what it is made out of
AS Product Design Project
Boning would have been sewed into the seams within the bodice or a stiffener would be sewn between the bodice to help the strapless dress stay in place Curve darts are used here to get the material to have this fall
Product Analysis The jewel encrusted bodice is strapless and low cut from the back. The neckline is a sweetheart shape, this would complement someone who has angular features because of the soft curves. The rhinestones on the bodice would either have been sewed on or they would have been glued on using jewel glue. Either way the process would have been very time consuming, this would mean that the overall price would be higher. An empire waistline is used here with the skirt flowing down loosely beneath. This waistline is used to emphasise the bust and also gives long and slender look. Hi lo dress, it is shorter in the front and longer at the back makes the dress seem more dramatic.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
Dress 2
The bodice has a zip sewed onto the back to make it easier for the consumer to wear the dress.
The material which would have been used to make this dress would have been either crepe and stretchy satin silk because it’s a lot like silk but stretchy and lightweight. Or it could have been made from satin with a polyester or rayon blends because they are similar in appearance to actual satin but are much more affordable.
This dress has a sweep train meaning it’s about a foot and a half on the floor . So barley “dusting” the floor. To make the skirt, the manufacturer made separate panels which were then sewed together to create a flair
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis Princess line dresses have no seam running across the body, and it’s shape is created by sewing together long vertical strips of fabric. A princess line dress usually follows one’s curves along the sides of the bodice, to the natural waistline, and will then flare at the hips.
The neck is a V-necks, which are classic necklines and look good on almost anyone. It helps to visually “lengthen out” the features of consumers who have short necks or faces. They are also generally a good choice for someone with a rounded, softer face as it helps to build a balance The dress has a natural waistline which sits just at the consumer’s waist, just above her hips. Majority of body type looks good in a natural waistline dress, as it emphasizes the natural hourglass figure. The embellished waist band cinches the waist The shell of the dress (outer) is made from organza silk . It’s soft, romantic appearance adds extra depth and an air of elegance to the dress. However, it wrinkles easily. It's also very delicate, and tends to be on the expensive side. It's best suited for warmer months, but can be worn at anytime of the year.
The lining would most probably have been made from acetate, it is a synthetic fiber which is very similar to silk but it is water resistant, shrink resistant and does not wrinkle easily. These characteristics make is suitable to be a lining
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
Dress 3 These are off the shoulder, sheer ruffle layer cap sleeves The beads and sequins on the bodice would either have been sewed on or they would have been glued on using jewel glue. Either way the process would have been very time consuming, this would mean that the overall price would be higher.
The bodice and skirt would have been made using patters, they would have been separately and then sewed together.
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis The bodice, skirt, pleat detail & lining would each have been made separately using patterns and then sewed together using a sewing machine. Bust darts were added to the bodice to give it more detail and make it more aesthetically appealing to the consumer. (Fig. 1) The pleated detail at the waist is there to flatter the curves of the consumer. (Fig. 2) The skirt of the dress has pleats below the bust to emphasise it. (Fig 3) Below in the charmesue interfacing has been added to provide shape and support. (Fig. 4) As the material frays very easily, a serger has been used to serge the raw edges of the dress to make the material more durable as it will protect the edges so they do not fray anymore. These have been on the “wrong" of the fabric so that it is easier to hide the seams when the consumer wears it. Serger seams are hidden because they aren’t aesthetically pleasing (Fig.5) Since the dress shape is A-line is has side seams running down from the armpit all the way to the hem. This helps the consumer appear thinner and hides wide hips and thighs. Since the waistline is an empire waistline, the dress is very fitted at the shoulders and chest meaning it is sewn very close to the exact measurements . The waistline helps the consumer look taller and also helps to hid wide hips. The dress shell (outer) is made from printed silk charmesue, this is a luxury fabric which is often made from 100% silk. Its a material suitable for draping as it has fluidity. Also it has a gloss satin finish and it ‘s extremely lightweight. The lining is made from acetate, it is a synthetic fiber which is very similar to silk but it is water resistant, shrink resistant and does not wrinkle easily. These characteristics make is suitable to be a lining. The reason there is a cheaper opaque material beneath the silk charmesue is because the charmesue is thin, therefore lining has to be added below to give the dress a more structured look
Nismah Siddique
Dress 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 4
Design Technology
Fig. 3
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis The zip is placed on the left side of the dress to make it easier for the consumer to open and close the dress as it is more accessible. (Fig. 6) The zip would have been sewed onto the material using a zipper foot, without the presser foot applying pressure to the zipper teeth. The zip is the same colour as the lining of the dress so that it can keep the design consistent and also so that the zip is not prominent when consumer wears it. (Fig. 6) There is also a hook sewed at the top of the zip, this is done so that it is easier for the consumer to close the zip instead of holding it at the top, the hook does that for the consumer. (Fig. 7) The length of the dress is tea length, this means that the hem falls a few inches below the knee. This gives the dress a look which is a mix between formal and informal. The neck is a V-necks, which are classic necklines and look good on almost anyone. It helps to visually “lengthen out” the features of consumers who have short necks or faces. They are also generally a good choice for someone with a rounded, softer face as it helps to build a balance. (Fig. 8)
Nismah Siddique
Dress 4
Fig. 6 Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis The bodice, skirt, ruffle detail on the bodice & lining would each have been made separately using patterns and then sewed together using a sewing machine. Bust darts were added to the bodice to give it more detail and make it more aesthetically appealing to the consumer. (Fig, 1) The dress shell (outer) is made from polyester chiffon which is much more durable and less likely to crease than the silk chiffon. However it does not mold as easily into shape. It is a low cost alternative to silk and keeps it shape through wear. (Fig. 2) The lining is made from cotton batiste, it is a lightweight opaque material. It is suitable for draping This type of fabric is similar to cotton lawn, but it is thicker. Also it is soft to touch making it suitable for consumers with sensitive skin. (Fig. 3) As the material frays very easily, a serger has been used to serge the raw edges of the dress to make the material more durable as it will protect the edges so they do not fray anymore. These have been hidden because they aren’t aesthetically pleasing (Fig.4) Since the dress shape is A-line is has side seams running down from the armpit all the way to the hem. This helps the consumer appear thinner and hides wide hips and thighs. Since the waistline is an empire waistline, the dress is very fitted at the shoulders and chest meaning it is sewn very close to the exact measurements . The waistline helps the consumer look taller and also helps to hid wide hips. The length of the dress is ballerina length, it is above the ankle giving the consumer a ultrafeminine look.
Nismah Siddique
Dress 5
Fig. 4 Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis
Dress 5 The zip is placed on the left side of the dress to make it easier for the consumer to open and close the dress as it is more accessible. (Fig. 5) The zip would have been sewed onto the material using a zipper foot, without the presser foot applying pressure to the zipper teeth. The zip is the same colour as the lining of the dress so that it can keep the design consistent and also so that the zip is not prominent when consumer wears it. (Fig. 6) The neck is a V-necks, which are classic necklines and look good on almost anyone. It helps to visually “lengthen out” the features of consumers who have short necks or faces. They are also generally a good choice for someone with a rounded, softer face as it helps to build a balance. (Fig. 7) There are buttons on the neckline to let the consumer choose how deep they want the neckline to be (Fig.8) The ruffles make the dress look more feminine. (Fig. 8)They are basic hem ruffles. When they had been made they were sewn around the neckline using a stitched/pinked seam (Fig. 9) Interfacing has been added to the dress to give it a more structured look when worn (Fig. 10)
Fig. 7
Fig. 8 Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Product Analysis This is a sheath style dress, meaning it is very form-fitting from top to bottom. These dresses are very modern and fashionable. The bodice is ruched, meaning the fabric is bunched together to create horizontal lines across the bodice. Consumers can use ruching to emphasize their figures or fill them out. It would have been made using seams and straight darts
The classic floor length and flowing skirt give the dress elegance.
Nismah Siddique
Dress 6
The neck is a V-necks, which are classic necklines and look good on almost anyone. It helps to visually “lengthen out” the features of consumers who have short necks or faces. They are also generally a good choice for someone with a rounded, softer face as it helps to build a balance The dress has a natural waistline which sits just at the consumer’s waist, just above her hips. Practically every body type looks good in a natural waistline dress, as it emphasizes the natural hourglass figure. The dress is made from jersey silk, which is soft and is excellent for draping as it is a lightweight material. The bodice and skirt would have been made using patters, they would have been separately and then sewed together.
This dress has a sweep train meaning it’s about a foot and a half on the floor . So barley “dusting” the floor.
Design Technology
An intricate pattern of beads and sequins is placed on the shoulder sleeves adds sparkle to the dress making the dress more fun and suitable for younger demographic. The beads and sequins on the bodice would either have been sewed on or they would have been glued on using jewel glue. Either way the process would have been very time consuming, this would mean that the overall price would be higher.
AS Product Design Project
Client Profile
Basic Information Name? Nayab Rana Age? 17 Occupation? Student
Single or Married? Single Education Level? In high school
Preferences Favourite films? Romantic Comedies and anything with good humour
Favourite type of holiday? Visiting family and if not, someplace that requires a lot of walking on streets and exploring may it be commercial or the country side
Favourite destination? Turkey Favourite restaurants? Any restaurant which serves good Italian food
Magazines subscribes to? Seventeen, Teen Vogue, Time & National Geographic
Favourite artist or art movements? Andy Warhol Favourite music? Bands? Pop; Maroon 5 and Taylor Swift Designers preferred? Armani, BCBG, Calvin Kline, Christian Dior & Vera Wong
Favourite clothing stores? Top Shop, Forever 21, Bershka, Zara & Mango
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
1. 2.
Questions to ask in the interview
What is your figure type? (If you fit in two of the figure types tick them both) Apple Shape[] Boyish [] Busty [] Carrot Shape [] Hourglass []
Pear Shape []
How much are you willing to pay for a new dress? 300 - 400 QR [] 401 - 500 QR [] 501 - 600 QR []
701 - 800 QR []
801 - 900 QR []
Draping []
Streamers and Tails []
601 - 700 QR []
3.
What do you want the theme to be for the dress? _____________________________________________________________
4.
What style would you like the skirt of the dress to be? Flounce [] Overskirt – Petal [] True Overskirt [] Bias Cut Overskirt [] Bustle [] Bubble [] Mermaid [] Fan back/Fishtail []
5.
What length do you want the skirt of the dress to be? Above Knee [] Knee-length [] Below Knee []
6.
Do you want a train? Yes [] No[]
7.
If so, what style train do you want? Sweep [] Court [] Panel []
8.
9.
Mid Calf Length []
Petite []
Ankle Length []
Slender []
Floor []
Small Chested [] 901-1000 QR []
Pleated []
1000+ QR []
Tiered []
High-Low []
Watteau []
What types of sleeves do you want? (check the ones you would prefer) None [] Spaghetti Straps [] A-line Straps [] Column Straps [] One Shoulder sleeve [] Draped Cowl Sleeve[] Puff Sleeves [] Bell Sleeves [] Butterfly Sleeves [] Bishop Sleeves [] Gathered Sleeves [] Petal Sleeves [] Batwing Sleeves [] Fitted point Sleeves [] Poet Sleeves []
Juliette Sleeves [] Cap Sleeves []
If you want sleeves, what length do you want the sleeves to be? ¼ [] ½ [] ¾ [] Long Sleeves []
10. What do you want your neckline to be like? Square [] Sweetheart [] Boat [] Scoop []
Jewel []
V-neck []
Surplice []
11. What do you want your back to be like? (check the ones you would prefer) Lace up back [] Zip up back [] Button back [] Low cut [] Cut out back [] 12. What would you like to be able to change about the dress? Sleeves Style [] Sleeves Length [] Back style [] Bodice []
Skirt Style []
Backless [] Skirt Length []
Crisscross back [] Train []
13. Would you like to be able to personalize the dress? Yes [] No [] 14. If you have a preference for a certain material(s) you want to be used please mention below: ________________________________________________________________________ 15. Would you like the dress to be simple or elaborate? Elaborate [] Simple [] 16. If you feel I have missed anything please mention it below: ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Interview
As my client was not in the country when I need to interview her to know how the dress was to look, I skyped her. Before interviewing Nayab Rana, I sent her the questions I was going to ask her so that she would have answers prepared when I asked her the questions. Above is the interview.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Materials Using the internet, books and analysing different evening wear dresses, I was able to find out which materials were typically used for evening wear. This will help to make the dress look more aesthetically pleasing as well as up to date with the latest trends. Organza – It has a plain weave, it is a sheer fabric and is often either made from silk or a synthetic nylon. It’s used to create volume in the dress.
Crepe- Back Satin – It is a lightly textured fabric. It has two faces, one
Chiffon – It’s delicately woven , it is a sheer fabric; it is normally made from
Duchesse Satin – It is an elegant fabric normally used in couture and
100% silk. However, it also available in synthetic. It is used to add fluidity and an ‘airy’ quality to the dress.
extravagant events. It is the heaviest fabric from the silk family and has subtle lustre.
Georgette – It is very much like chiffon except it is more opaque and has a
Hammered Satin – It is a thick and lustrous fabric with a sheen of satin.
crepe like texture. It is also dry to touch and drapes well.
Charmeuse - It is a luxury fabric which has a glossy satin finish. It is extremely lightweight. It is normally made from 100% silk. The fluidity of the material helps create a soft drape.
Crepe de Chine – It is a plainly woven, light fabric. Normally, it made from silk with a slightly crepe characteristic.
crepe and the other high lustre satin. It creates a soft drape.
It is called hammer satin because it has a surface similar to hammered metal. It’s used to drape.
Taffeta - It has a tight weave and is known for its stiff crisp quality. It is often made from silk but is also made from a variety of synthetics. It is used to create distinct silhouettes.
Shantung/Raw Silk - It uses raw silk fibres to create the fabric,. It has a highly textured quality and is often used in spring and autumn collections.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Materials Using the internet, books and analysing different evening wear dresses, I was able to find out which materials were typically used for evening wear. This will help to make the dress look more aesthetically pleasing as well as up to date with the latest trends. Douoppioni – it is created by weaving raw silk threads together. It creates a shimmering fabric. It is used to give a crisp drape.
Tulle – It is a light weight fabric which looks like netting. It is either made from silk to give a draped effect or synthetic fibres, which give it a much more stiff look.
Moiré – Commonly referred to as water silk because of rippling water pattern which gives Moiré its distinct look. It is made from silk, rayon or other blends.
Ottoman Faille - This material has a lightly ribbed pattern which is similar to grosgrain ribbon, creates texture. It is used to create stiff and structured silhouettes. It is made from silk cotton and rayon.
Velvet – It is made from silk, cotton or synthetic blends. It is soft plush fabric. Because the treads stick up, it creates a soft to touch pile
Lamé - It is a slinky brocade fabric . It is made from interwoven metallic threads, which give it a sheen
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Industrial Manufacture
Using the internet, books and analysing different evening wear dresses, I was able to find out about industrial manufacture. Although My design is to be a one off design, if it were to be batch produced for a high-street brand; making 50 units or more of this dress, the following method would be used.
1. Design & Sketching – In garment manufacturing the first step is for the designer to make several sketches. Then those sketches are analysed by a panel of designers , they chose a few of the designs to go forward. The chosen designs are then rendered in detail. Along with the sketches the designer has too make working drawings to help the patternmaker to understand the patterns which are involved in the construction of the garment. 2. Pattern Design – The patternmaker, develops the first pattern for the designs in a standard size. This is made by pattern drafting on a CAD software. The purpose of making a garment in to create a sample garment for testing. 3. Sample Making - The patterns are sent to the sewing unit fro assembling them into the garment They are stitched on low quality fabrics like calico and muslin to reduce costs. Once the sample is constructed the pattern fit and design are analysed by a panel of designers, pattern makers and sewing specialists. If any changes have to be made they are made at this time. 4. Production Pattern - The pattern design is then used to make a production pattern with will be used in the production of the garments. The pattern maker makes the patterns on standard pattern making paper. These papers are made-up of various grades. The most important component, the tissue paper pattern, is made from the lightest and thinnest paper commercially It is called 7.5 lb. (3.4 kg) basis paper, meaning that a ream of it (500 sheets) only weighs 7.5 lb. (3.4 kg). Garment patterns can be constructed by two means: • manual method • CAD/CAM method. Majority of the manufacturers use CAD/CAM because of the ease of designing patterns, fluency and precision involved which cannot be guaranteed with the manual method. The production patterns created in CAD/CAM can be stored easily and they can be modified at any point of time. A garment sewing pattern or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: 1. Direct Sample. 2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart. 3. Actual body size measurements. 4. Ease Allowances. 5. Sewing Allowance. These allowances are different for different type of fabrics and patterns. 5. Grading - Grading is used to scale the pattern up or down in order to adjust for multiple sizes. That is how we get sizes 8, 10, 12 etc.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Industrial Manufacture
Using the internet, books and analysing different evening wear dresses, I was able to find out about industrial manufacture. Although My design is to be a one off design, if it were to be batch produced for a high-street brand; making 50 units or more of this dress, the following method would be used. 6. Marker Marking • Manual method: The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step. • Computer marking is done on specialized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required. 7. Spreading – The spreading machine helps to stack the fabric on one another till it reaches a certain length and thickness. 8. Cutting - The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters having similar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes. 9. Sorting - Here the sorter sorts the pattern into the correct size and design to make bundles. Here a lot of precision is required because mismatched patterns can create problems. The sorter also attaches the style size specs and marker on to the bundles. 10. Sewing – “Large garment manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching inhouse is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process. There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make. These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.” – Gulnaz Ahmad Hub Pages different defects 11. Inspection – During processing the quality control section checks each prepared article against different defects such as open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non-matching threads and etc. 12. Finishing - “The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to change the finished surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain other combination. Pressing, pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes. Creasing is mostly done before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff. Creasing is also done before decorating the garment with something like a pocket, appliqués, embroidered emblems etc. Vertical and form presses is automated machines. Perform simple pressing operations, such as touching up wrinkles in knit shirts, around embroidery and snaps, and at difficult-to-reach places on garments.” - Gulnaz Ahmad Hub Pages
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Industrial Manufacture
Using the internet, books and analysing different evening wear dresses, I was able to find out about industrial manufacture. Although My design is to be a one off design, if it were to be batch produced for a high-street brand; making 50 units or more of this dress, the following method would be used.
13. Final Inspection – In the final inspection the product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, designs of the final finished garments. 14. Packing - The finished garments are finally sorted on the basis of design and size and packed to send for distribution to the retail outlets.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Healthy & Safety Standards
Although I was unable to find out about Health and Safety Standards specifically related to the garment industry. I found information on Health and Safety issues for the workers and how to prevent them.
Garment Worker Safety (http://www.statefundca.com) • As cutting tools and knitting or sewing needles can pose cut and puncture hazards, workers should be instructed to follow basic safety precautions while working with sharp and cutting instruments. Precautions include: using sharp tools that are in good repair; carrying and storing sharp tools properly; and always cutting away from the eyes and body. Workers need to stay alert when working with sharp objects and make sure needles are properly guarded. • Chemicals also play a part in garment manufacturing. Dyes, enzymes, solvents, and other chemicals are used to create different fabric finishes and durability. So, proper ventilation, respiratory protection, and other personal protective equipment are important to protect workers during chemical processing. The same safety steps should be taken for workers who handle the finished material and may be exposed to excess chemicals and off-gassing. Workers should know where and how to access Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) on the chemicals used in their workplace. • Because much of garment work involves close viewing of the garment, eye protection is critical. Garment workers can avoid eye injuries by using proper shields on high speed sewing machinery or safety glasses where appropriate. Also, adequate task lighting at individual work stations can prevent eye strain. • Some garment manufacturing equipment can be very loud, so proper hearing protection may be necessary. Because a garment factory uses many heated processes, it is important for workers to avoid heat stress by labeling and guarding hot surfaces and drinking plenty of water during their shift. Proper ventilation can help to reduce ambient temperatures and ensure worker comfort. • Many tasks in garment manufacturing require repetitive motions . To prevent ergonomic injuries workers should be encouraged to rotate tasks or take frequent, short breaks to stretch and relax muscles. Work stations should allow enough space for the task, have appropriate working height, and provide proper seating. Manufacturing tools and machinery should incorporate ergonomic design principles and should not require an excessive amount of force to operate. • With proper training and instruction, machine guarding, personal protective equipment, and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture products in safe and healthy workplaces.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Environmental, Social & Moral Issues Using the internet and I was able to find out about Environmental, Social & Moral Issues.
Textiles are made of fibers. Fibers are either natural or synthetic, and some natural fibers are released for use through extensive processes. The steps that are needed to produce a usable fiber and fashion it into a usable textile can lead to environmental, social, and moral issues. Environmental: Cotton and flax are fibers that are produced via farming. Cotton is grown widely, Cotton uses 1941 millilitres of water for irrigation, which is a lot of water in a time when water is scarce. Cotton growing also requires the use large amounts of fertilizing chemicals as well as pesticide applications as cotton is very susceptible to insect enfestitations, which in turn pollute the environment. However cotton has made significant changes to how cotton is grown have occurred in recent times. Now cotton growers use 90% less chemicals then a decade ago and Australia is the leader in the world of sustainable cotton production.
Wool and related animal fibers are sheared or combed from animals. By keeping a large heard of animals may result to environmental damage. Manure generated from livestock has significantly contributed to the increase in atmospheric greenhouse gasses over the last 250 years. Also, very high stock numbers (sheep largely) are the cause of vegetation change and soil erosion leading to the formation of badlands [heavily eroded areas]. And wool scouring can consume large amounts of water and chemicals, and produce heavily polluted waste-water. Silk is another highly renewable resource with less impacts than many fabrics. You have to kill the silk worm when you boil the cocoon, but a single moth that hatches will lay hundreds of eggs. They feed on mulberry leaves, which don't require pesticides or fertilizers to grow. The negatives are that silk is not a local resource and processing can lead to pollution. Intensive cultivation practices and chemicals used for cleaning the silk can pollute groundwater. When you add it up, it does take a large amount of resources to produce a small amount of silk--by some estimates, 35 pounds of silk from an acre of mulberry trees. Rayon, bamboo, soy "silk," and similar fibers are chemically treated cellulose.. Synthetic fibers are more difficult to dye than natural fibers. Manufacturers add heavy metals and toxic compounds to the water to help the dyes cling to these inorganic fabrics. This creates pollution in the form of runoff to lakes, rivers and oceans. With concerns over this pollution, some companies have begun to use more environmentally friendly products. Eco-friendly clothing manufacturers use organic cotton, bamboo, soy and hemp to weave fabrics, and then use plant-based dyes to give the fabrics color. Some companies also use recycled synthetic fibers like polyester and plastic bags in their products in an effort to keep non-biodegradable items out of landfills. ? Is it moral to purchase fabric made by slave labor in China? and so on and so on and so on.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Environmental, Social & Moral Issues Using the internet and I was able to find out about Environmental, Social & Moral Issues.
Social & Moral: Clothing industry practices vary widely regarding livable wages: Some companies pay minimum wage, while others pay competitive rates. Manufacturers who outsource jobs to foreign companies in China, India or other countries might try to get around paying livable wages to workers. To counter this, some companies have instigated the practice of fair trade. Fair trade clothing companies assure consumers that workers in foreign countries receive fair and livable wages for the work they do. The International Labour Organization, which guides European clothing manufacturers, has guidelines companies can use to ensure appropriate fair labor practices. Examples of acceptable ethical practices include no exploitation of child labor or illegal immigrants, wages comparable to local standards and termination of trade relations in the event of ethics violations.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research: Trend Forecast Using the internet I was able to find what will be the trend in colours and patterns for the spring season. This will help to make the dress look more aesthetically pleasing as well as up to date with the latest trends.
I used the Pantone Inc. website to know what colours will be favoured in Spring 2013. I used Pantone Inc. because it is a well known company which is quite frequently used by designers . To predict colours for the upcoming season they look at global changes as well as historical, cultural, , societal, political, and economic contexts which affect fashion.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Mood Board
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Mood Board
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Mood Board
Quick Change Artists: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdnXvfPCxjI
Quick Change Artists: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZwbJUyomm8&feature=related
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Research Analysis To begin with I made a research plan, this helped me to break down the things I needed to investigate into as part of my research. To find the information I made the plan in to three columns, the generic area (what I need to find out, i.e. aesthetics, ergonomics, etcetera), where I would obtain the information and how it would help me designing. Subsequently, I did some research on dress sizing to get an overview on how the client is supposed to be measured, so that you get the correct measurements. And also what measurements are needed when you are designing and manufacturing a dress.
I then went on to look at existing dresses as part of my research. I looked at what materials were used to make the dresses and why they were used, for instance acetate is used as a lining in many high quality dresses because very similar to silk but it is water resistant, shrink resistant and does not wrinkle easily. I looked at the silhouette, waistlines, sleeve styles, skirts and bodices of the dress and saw what they did to compliment the body types of different consumers. I also examined how the consumer was supposed to wear the dress, the majority of the dresses I analysed has zips sewed to the side so that it was easy for the consumer to wear the dress and close it up. Next, I created a client profile. I did this by asking my client about their lifestyle and preferences. I did this because it would give me a better insight of my client and also because when selecting colours, patterns and fabrics for the dress I will have something else to refer back to, so that the dress is suitable for the consumer. As another part of my market research, I interviewed my client to get a better idea about how they want the dress to look. I asked a variety of questions about the bodice, skirt and etc. I also asked about what was the maximum price she was willing to pay for the dress so that I knew what would be my budget for buying fabrics and haberdashery products to make the dress.
Then, I did some research on different types of satin, silk , chiffon and tulle, as those are the materials which are to be used to make gowns and why they are used. Later I researched pricing at the Souqs so that I knew which fabrics I could afford in the budget and which I could not. I found out that if I bought the material from Souq Asiry it was much cheaper and I could get all my material for about 175QAR or less, however if I were to buy at another Souq, the exact same materials would cost me more than 500 QAR
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Specification My product specification is written below. It is list that will help develop my target product. It has been checked and agreed with my client/customer.
Target Market: The Target Market is the one which was the most popular age group in the consumer survey, which were teenagers (13-18 yrs. old) and the dress is aimed at girls. Function: As the dress is to be multifunctional. The consumer will be able to change either the style of the skirt , the length of the skirt or the sleeves of the dress. Materials: The client is open to the use of different materials. However, she would prefer if Silk or Satin materials were used for the bodice and the skirt is to be made from a netting. Another thing Nayab mentioned was that she would not like the dress to have any material which is overly “sparkly” or glittery. Ergonomics/Overall Sizes: The dress will be fitted at the bodice, but will have a long and flowy skirt. I will use the dress sizes and measure the client to make the dress size perfect for her. Manufacturing Process and Quantity: The processes used will be; CAD-CAM, for accurate size and design on the fabrics, cutting, sewing, embroidery. The quantity will be only one per design as they are one-off designs. Equipment / Tools Requirements: CAD-CAM, tape measure, Dressmaker sears, Paper scissors, Embroidery scissors , Cutting table, Seam ripper, Tracing wheels, Tailor’s chalk, Pins, Hand sewing needles, Thimbles, Pin cushions, Household iron, Press cloths, Sewing Machine, Serger Product Life Span And Life Cycle: The dress will be designed to last a few years and if the proper care is taken it is to last even longer. When the pieces reach the end of their life cycle, most of the materials used to make the products will be able to be re-used or recycled. Aesthetic Appearance (shape, colour, texture): The multifunctional dress will be designed with the aesthetics in mind, as it is important that the dress is desirable. The colours used to make the dress will be suitable for Spring/Summer as that is the season in which the dress will be worn. The dress will have an A-line skirt as that’s what the client suggested. The textures will vary depending on the material used. As the client has an hour glass shape, the waist of the dress will be at the natural waist. Quality Assurance: Quality assurance will be carried out to ensure all the systems and procedures are in place to guarantee that a quality product is manufactured. Quality Control: Quality Control will guarantee the accuracy of the product. This ensures that each product meets a specific standard and includes the dimensional accuracy and material quality. Cost: The Cost will be directly proportional to the quality of the product, also it is important that the price range is affordable and reasonable. The maximum the client is willing to be is between 300 – 500 QAR Health and Safety: Health and safety regulations will be adhered to during manufacturing process. Also every effort will be made to ensure that no harm is to come to the consumer, this will be done by making sure that the materials used do not irritate the skin.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Press this button to see feedback from client.
Feedback: I absolutely love this dress, it is very much my ideal dress. Also, I really like the idea of the dress skirt changing. However, prefer the tulle skirt to be more longer as I feel it is too short in the drawing. I really like that you have taken my choice into consideration in this dress.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas Feedback: I love the fact that I can adjust the length of the sleeves and also the style. And I really like the fact that the material you intend to use has an ombre style. for the lines on the dress, if that is embroidery then I would prefer it to be very simple. Also if dress this dress is made from a print material I think it will look nice as well..
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Feedback: I like how in this dress you can change the skirt style from draped to an A-line but I don't like the trail at the back of the A-line dress. Also I feel this dress isn't really how I want my prom dress to look. It seems to me more for like normal/tea party wear.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Feedback: I love the use of different shades of red, however it is not a colour that I like to wear, but I love the dress style but I'm not a huge fan of the mermaid style. Maybe if you changed that part of the dress I would more likely like to wear it.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Feedback: it look like a nice dress but I'm not sure how you will plan to achieve the bodice style to change. Also I don't really like the sleeves.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Feedback: I like the idea of this dress, also I love the bodice but the skirt are really pants with a strip of material in the middle. I don't really like that.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Initial Ideas
Feedback: I LOVE this dress, I really like how it's very simple and that you can take out the skirt and make it into a tunic styled shirt. I would prefer the embroidery on the bodice to be simple and not too showy. Also I would like the dress to be not too 'poofy'. Overall, I really like it and would love to wear it.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Modelling Dress 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 2
Fig. 1
The pictures above are the pattern that will be used to make the dress. These will be cut out on plain white cotton on the laser cutter. The actual materials are not being used here because the shape has to be determined, so that if there are any changes to be made they can be made quickly. Also cotton is cheaper than silk and satins, so its less costly to model using cotton rather than the actual materials which will be used to make the dress. Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 1 are the patterns for the front and back of the bodice. Fig. 2. are the patterns for the sleeves Fig. 3 is the pattern for the flared out skirt. Originally, I had planned to cutout the skirt pattern as a full circle (Fig. 3). However, the size of the laser cutter was slightly smaller than the size I need to cut out (Fig. 4), that is why I made the skirt into two semi circles which I will then sew together to make the skirt (Fig. 5).
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Modelling Dress 2 The first time I cut out the patterns, they were too much to the side that the chafed side of the material was cut out, therefore I had to cut out the material again. Once I had cut out the separate pieces on the laser cutter, I used the pins to see if all the pieces would fit together on the ergonomic doll. When I tried to pin all the pieces together on the ergonomic doll it could be seen that the bodice and sleeves were too small, however the skirt was size and length was fine. Also I noticed that the sleeves wouldn’t fit properly, so I changed the shape of the sleeves to allow them to fit the ergonomic doll more precisely ). To make sure the dress overall fit accurately, I gave the patterns more seam allowance on the pattern, this enabled me to sew the dress more accurate to size. Once I had made all the amendments to the patterns, I cut out the new pattern on the laser cutter.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Development The scan on the right was the technical drawing of the final piece, incorporating ideas from both dress 2 and dress 8. However, when it was shown to the Client, Nayab Rana, she was very hesitant about this design. And said she felt it would be too complicated to keep having to open and close the buttons and may also be uncomfortable. I suggested to just go with dress 8 with out the interchangeable sleeves as she had previously really liked dress 8 and was happy to go forward with it, but she said she felt it would be too excessive for Junior Prom and would be more suitable for a Senior one. So, we decided to go back to the initial ideas and re-analyse them. In the end she decided that the most suitable for her prom would be dress 1 and that I should work on it and make some changes to it like increasing the length of the underskirt, changing the neckline to a sweetheart neckline for a more feminine look and add more lace to the back.
Turn to next page to view the technical drawing of the final design.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Front
Back
15”
7” 33”
11.5” 29.5”
Modelling Final Design When I made the model for the final design, I decided that I needed to make it a life size model instead of a doll model, this way it would be easier to make the final piece as the patterns would already have been made to the exact size. 1. Using the technical drawing as guidance, I created the patterns on Corel Draw. On the patterns I added an inch for seam allowance to make it easier to sew. 2. I then printed the patterns using the tiled option so that all the patterns would be printed to the exact measurements. Once the patterns were printed out, I stuck all the A4 sheets of paper together depending on the pattern and then cut out the inside and around the pattern to make it easier to mark the pattern and seam allowance on the material. 3. Once all the patterns were complete, I placed them on the material to make sure the maximum amount of material would be used. I then pinned the patterns on the material. When the patterns were held in place I traced around the pattern with tailor’s chalk. The outside line of the pattern I made into a solid line because I had to cut it and the line inside the pattern I made into dashes as I was to sew over it. 4. Now that all the piece had been cut out , I place them in different piles. All the bodice front pieces together, all the bodice back pieces together, all the sleeves together, and all the skirt pieces together. 5. Firstly, I sewed all of the front bodice pieces together by matching the seem lines together. I then did the same for the back of the bodice and the skirt. 6. Then I positioned the straps on the bodice and sewed it in place. After that I place the back and front of the bodice right sides together and sewed along the seam line. 7. I then matched the skirt along the bodice and sewed it. 8. Before adding the sleeves , I asked Nayab to try on the model. There were a number of problems. Although the pieces alone were an exact fit, in the dress form the dress was unable to close . Also the waistline was too low as it was on the hips not on the natural waistline which is one inch above the belly button. Another thing was that skirt if the length was too short and the armhole was to precise it was uncomfortable.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Modelling Final Design Since the first model had a few problems, I decided not carry on with sewing on the shoulders, zip and overskirt. Instead, I made a new model by changing the patterns. 1. Because the previous model was unsuccessful and needed a few changes, I took extra measurements like the length from the shoulder to the waistline (15”), the length from the waistline to the floor while wearing heels(47”). 2. Instead of the bodice and sleeve pattern being each full piece, I changed the patterns to halves. This would give the dress a more symmetric look. I also removed the seam allowances ( I will add them when the patterns are on the material). I then made changes to the waistline by making it shorter length wise and adding ½ “ width wise to the overall bodice pattern. I then added 10” more to the skirt length. 3. I then printed out the patterns using the tiling option on Corel Draw. I cut out the different pieces and stuck them together using masking tape. 4. Once all the patterns were complete, I placed them on the material to make sure the maximum amount of material would be used. I then pinned the patterns on the material. When the patterns were held in place I traced around the pattern with tailor’s chalk. I went around the pattern leaving a 1” gap for seam allowance. I then cut out the pieces. I placed the pieces, that were to be sewed together, in place and cut out a notch to make it easier to match the pieces . 5. Now that all the piece had been cut out , I placed them in different piles. All the bodice front pieces together, all the bodice back pieces together, all the sleeves together, and all the skirt pieces together. 6. Firstly, I sewed all of the front bodice pieces together by matching the notches together. Once the front was sewed together I placed the front on the material and traced around it. I then cut that piece out, matched it to the sewed front of the bodice (right sides together) and then I followed the seam line on the sewed front. One that was done I turned the piece inside out, this gave it a much neater finish. However, I noticed that the curve in the middle of the sweetheart neckline looked very blunt. So. I turned the piece inside out again and added a small nip in the area. So when the piece was the right way around the neckline looked how it was supposed to. I then did the same for the back of the bodice by sewing another piece and turning it inside out to give a neater look. After that I sewed all the skirt panels together by matching the notches.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Modelling Final Design 7. Then I positioned the straps on the bodice so that the seam line matched and then I sewed the pieces together. After that I placed the sleeved along the bodice and sewed it in place. Once that was done I placed the the back and front of the bodice right sides together and sewed along the seam line on the right side and also turned the dress inside out and sewed along the shoulder. 8. Now that the bodice was complete, I matched the skirt notches along the bodice and sewed it together. 9. Once the actual dress was complete, I started to make the over skirt. One problem I face was that I was unable to find a Jacket zipper which would be long enough for Nayab’s waist, so I had to change the design slightly. Instead of the belt being on the bodice, it would be on the over skirt that will be made from chiffon, there will be a zip on the side to make it easier to wear the skirt over the underskirt. Also to make it more secure buttons or a hook could be added to the belt. 10. So, using the measurements for the underskirt, I added a few inches to the over skirt. I then sewed the belt over the skirt and then sewed on the zip. Changes for manufacturing: • Together me and the client decided that the curve didn’t look as good and it would be better if the front bodice would be one piece with 2 darts just below the bust. This would give the desired effect and give the desired effect. Also we decided to add two darts at the back of the bodice fore more structure. Because of this 3” will have to be added to the bust for the final piece. • The chiffon overskirt will have the satin silk belt sewed onto the top because I was unable to find a jacket zipper the same length as the client’s waist . However there will be a zipper from the belt to about 3” underneath the belt to make it easier to wear the skirt on top of the dress. Hooks will be added to the belt to make the overskirt more secure. • For a more neater look add some more lining at the back of the lining of the bodice, this will effectively hide the seams and add more structure. • We decided to change the back of the dress, so it is straight instead of curved because too much of the lace at the back would look weird so we decided to change the back to have a sleeveless dress neckline with the sleeves. • We decided to add a brooch to the front neckline to gibe the dress more elegance.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Final Design Below is the technical drawing of the final dress design which I will manufacture. It has all the measurements of my client which I will need, to create the dress. Front
36”
11.5”
29.5” 9”
32”
Back
15”
7”
15” 7.5”
Chiffon Skirt
30” 1”
-Zip -Design -Seams -Brooch -Hook
47”
44”
128”
151”
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Manufacturing
This is used for a quality control check because it shoes each step of the production. If any problems occur during one of the steps I can go back to the previous stage and redo the process till the desired effect is achieved.
Start Take measurements of the client. Add 3” to the bust so that the bodice is more comfortable to wear and that darts can be added easily;, 1” to the waistline for client’s comfort. Create patterns for the dress on Corel Draw. Print Patterns out using the tiled format, to have the patterns in the exact measurements as on the screen. Cut and stick together all the different A4 pieces to create patterns Recut the pattern on brown card so that the original pattern can be reused and the card is much more sturdier than paper and will be much more reusable than the paper pattern.
Nismah Siddique
Sort the pieces into bodice, lace sleeves, underskirt (tulle). Cut around the larger outside shape made. The overskirt(Chiffon) is not cut out at this point because I need to know the exact width and length of the underskirt before I made the overskirt, as the overskirt will have to be longer and have a slightly bigger waist so that to easy to wear. Place the pieces over one another where the are to be sewn, cut out a notch to make it easier to match the pieces .
Sew the lace part of the dress first without the sleeves. Firstly I took the two 11” x 8” strips of lace and folded one of the strips over at 4 inches so that both sides were the right sides. I then ironed it to get in place and then pinned it. Once it was in place I sewed the other side of the piece along the seam line, ½” lower than the edge. The reason I folded the lace was to make it more sturdier to hold up theNo entire dress.
Place the pattern on the material so that the least possible amount of fabric is wasted. Pin the pattern down and trace over them with tailor’s chalk (be sure to put everything onto the material like darts and etc.), also go around the pattern around 1” for seam allowance
Design Technology
Are the seams straight?
No
Material
Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Repeat the procedure in the previous process box with the second strip of Lace (11” x 8”) Are the seams straight?
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Carry on the next slide.
AS Product Design Project
Yes Now place the strips on the front bodice lining at the mid point of the curve where it is marked. Sew along the edge of the lining and also at edge of the lace to make sure the lace piece is secure, only sew until the seam on the lace.
Are the seams straight?
No
Manufacturing
Now that the shoulders are complete, on the front side of the bodice, place the chiffon above the right side of the lining. Pin the chiffon in place and sew along the edge of the lining where it is marked. Yes
Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Repeat the procedure in the previous process box with the second strip of Lace strip.
Are the seams straight?
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Now repeat the same process at the back of the bodice.
Are the seams straight?
Nismah Siddique
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Are the seams straight? From both the front and the back the waist comes at 15�?
Rip out the seams and start again. No
Are the seams straight?
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Now that that lace strip is in place, measure from the waist of the garment to the shoulder, it should be 15� mark this point on both the lace pieces, in the front and in the back. Turn the bodice inside out. Fold the pieces at the markings and then sew along the markings on both the sides. This way the shoulders are now the correct size.
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Yes
Carry on the next slide.
Yes
Now turn the piece inside out and sew the extra lining fabric by matching the seam lines and notches together, sew the two linings together and make sure chiffon is not in the way.
Are the seams straight? There is no chiffon stuck in the seam?
No
Manufacturing
Yes Rip out the seams and start again. Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Now fold the piece down so that right side of the extra lining is showing. Fold the bottom side inwards and sew a straight seam. This will effectively hide fraying edges and also secure the piece n place. Are the seams straight? There is no chiffon stuck in the seam?
Yes
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Rip out the seams and start again. Rip out the seams and start again.
No
Are the seams straight? There is no chiffon stuck in the seam?
Now turn the back piece inside out and sew the extra lining fabric by matching the seam lines and notches together, sew the two linings together and make sure chiffon is not in the way. Yes
Video
Now pin the chiffon along the bottom of the lining. Then using the dart markings on the lining, pull in the chiffon and lining together at the centre of the dart. Pin it, iron it in place and then sew along the seam line of the dart
Nismah Siddique
Now fold the piece down so that right side of the extra lining is showing. Fold the bottom side inwards and sew a straight seam. This will effectively hide fraying edges and also secure the piece in place.
No
Are the seams straight?
Design Technology Yes
Yes
No
Are the seams straight?
Now that the front of the bodice is complete, I will do the same thing to the back of the bodice as I did on the front side of the bodice. Place the chiffon above the right side of the lining. Pin the chiffon in place and sew along the edge of the lining where it is marked.
AS Product Design Project
Carry on the next slide.
Are the seams straight? There is no chiffon stuck in the seam?
No
Manufacturing Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes
No
Yes Both the front and the back of the bodice are complete, serge both the sides of the front and back. Then sew on the sleeves. Turn the bodice inside out. Match the sleeves with the shoulder and bodice using the notches. Then sew along the seam line. Leave the bottom of the sleeve unstitched. Are the seams straight?
Nismah Siddique
Carry on the next slide.
Yes
Now pin the chiffon along the bottom of the lining. Then using the dart markings on the lining, pull in the chiffon and lining together at the centre of the dart (Fig. 1). Pin it, iron it in place(Fig. 2) and then sew along the seam line of the dart(Fig. 3) Are the seams straight?
I added a very loose seam with the widest possible seam length along the top of the tulle. I pulled one of the threads which caused the tulle t scrunch up and then I spread it out. I did this till the width of the top of the tulle was 30” . Are the seams straight?
Video
Rip out the seams and start again.
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
I left the left side of the bodice unsewed as I have to sew on the zip. Now I will made the tulle skirt. First I sewed the four pieces (35”x 46” each) by matching the edges and sewing vertically along the 1” seam allowance. I didn’t sew the two rectangle on either end because they were to go on the side.
Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
Yes Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes
Are the seams straight?
No
Now place the front of the bodice and the back of the bodice together by matching the notches, pin the pieces in place. Now sew along the right side of the bodice along the seam line
Design Technology
Rip out the seams and start again.
AS Product Design Project
Now I took the two panels I had cut out for the lining of the tulle, originally the underskirt was supposed to be only the tulle, but tulle cannot be worn by itself so I had to get silk to that the skirt was comfortable to wear. I matched the two panels together the right side facing one another and the wrong side outside. I added a lot of pin on the material to hold it in place because silk is a very slippery material it was difficult to keep the material in place while sewing. Are the seams straight?
No
Yes Now that the right side of the lining skirt was sewed together, I added an overlock to the edges to stop the material from unravelling. After that I lined the lining along the tulle skirt using the notches, using pins I pined the material in place and then about 1� below the top edge I sewed both the lining and the tulle skirt together. Are the seams straight?
Nismah Siddique
Manufacturing Rip out the seams and start again.
Rip out the seams and start again.
Are the seams straight?
No
Now the whole dress was sewed together except the left side. I had to sew in an invisible zipper. I opened up the zipper teeth and ironed the zipper as flat as I could. I then place the zipper 2� below the sleeve. I position the zipper teeth along the right side of the fabric on the seam allowance line. I changed the pressed foot on my sewing machine to the zipper presser foot. I first sewed along the edge of the zipper and then sewed a very close to the zipper teeth so that the zip was securely sewed to the material. Yes
Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes
Are the seams straight?
No
After that I turned the skirt around and the bodice inside out. I aligned the notches together when both the right sides were facing one another. I then sewed along the 1� seam allowance.
Design Technology
I then did the same thing to the zipper teeth on the other side.
Are the seams straight? Yes
Rip out the No seams and start again.
Now that the invisible zip was in place, I closed the zip and finished sewing the two tulle edges together, the lining skirt edges together and the top of the bodice. After that I sewed the sleeves from underneath. Rip out the seams and start again.
AS Product Design Project
Carry on the next slide.
No
Are the seams straight?
Manufacturing Rip out the seams and start again.
Yes Now that the actual dress is fully made. I started to make the chiffon skirt and the belt. First I made the belt, I cut out a strip of the silk 32” x 4”. I ironed on fusible interfacing onto the belt to give it more structure. I then cut out 4 panels of chiffon, each 25” I pinned each panel together and then sewed 47” along the 1” seam allowance. 43.5” Yes Are the seams straight?
No
I added a very loose seam with the widest possible seam length along the top of the chiffon. I pulled one of the threads which caused the tulle t scrunch up and then I spread it out. I did this till the width of the top of the chiffon was 30” .
Nismah Siddique
Are the seams straight?
Yes
Rip out the seams and start again. I then sewed the top fold of the belt, once that was done, I sewed the sides of the belt. Then I closed the zip and sewed the unsewn side of the skirt. Yes Are the seams straight?
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
I then place the chiffon skirt inside the belt, I aligned the notches together and then I folded the belt up and sewed along the edge of the belt. Yes Rip out the seams and start again.
Are the seams straight?
No
Rip out the seams and start again.
Once the chiffon skirt was complete I hand stitched the hooks onto the belt so that when the overskirt is worn on the dress is properly fastened. I then hand stitched the brooch the client wanted in the middle of the neckline.
Finish
I then placed the 9” zip on the chiffon skirt . ]The zip was 1” below the edge of the skirt.. I position the zipper teeth along the right side of the fabric on the seam allowance line. I changed the pressed foot on my sewing machine to the zipper presser foot. I first sewed along the edge of the zipper and then sewed a very close to the zipper teeth so that the zip was securely sewed to the material. I then did the same on the other side.
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Testing Once I had made the dress, I asked my client to try it on and tell me what she thought of it. She felt it was very comfortable and easy to walk in. Below is her final feedback (Click on the video to play).
Also I asked some consumers other than the client. I asked them, what they like, what they didn’t like, why and what would they change about the dress. By clicking on the audio sign on the two pictures below you can hear the consumer feedback.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Evaluation My brief was to design a multifunctional prom dress for a female in the 17 to 24 age group, the dress was to be affordable and was to use a variety of material in manufacturing the dress. Also I was to take the client’s choice and preferences. Overall, I feel my project went very well. I was able to learn a lot of useful skills regarding dress designing and manufacturing. The first thing I did was make a time plan to help me organize me time effectively, I then made a research plan to help be find out key information that would assist me with the assignment, like how to measure a person, trend forecasts for the upcoming year and etc. Early on in the project I stuck to the time plan and in some place like initial ideas and consumer survey I was able to finish a bit earlier than the deadlines I had set my self. However, when I came to modelling the and manufacturing the it took much longer than I had initially expected. This could largely be due to different issues arising during manufacturing, like the client changing the final design completely. I found out a lot of relevant information during research using a variety of books and internet sources as well as analysing existing materials. I feel however, that if I were to redo this section of the assignment I would got to the tailor, and ask different questions regarding dress making to improve my design. I then created a specification using my primary and secondary research like the analysing existing products and consumer survey. Using the specification I began to design and sketch initial ideas which I would show to the client to choose from. Some point of the specification were I made the points very open, for instance the material, as I intended to have more variety while designing the ideas. Also I did not include the exact dimensions the dress would be because, the human body keeps changing so it would be important to take the measurements during modelling. Personally, I was satisfied with the quality of my initial ideas. However, I feel if I were to redo the ideas I would add colour to all the initial ideas instead of only a few. Also I feel that each of the dresses had different convertible parts but some were very similar, this was mostly due to the fact I had to keep the choices and preferences of the client in mind. Initially, I started to model the two dresses my client liked on a small scale to see how the dress would look. However, I found that on smaller models it was much harder than the actual size model. Once I had created dress 2 for the ergonomic doll I decided to make a technical drawing of the two dresses together. When I showed it to the client, she didn’t really like it that much because she felt it was too complicated and may be uncomfortable. So we had to back and re-evaluate all the initial designs. We then decided that the final design would be the first design I made. I made a few changes to the dress to fit the client’s needs and then started to model the dress.
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project
Evaluation When I made the model it gave me a better idea of what the dress would look like when it was made to a full scale. This was really helpful because I was able to see what problems may occur during manufacturing and was able to fix them by change the sizes of the pattern. In the first model I made the design had many problems, like it was to small length wise so it only reached the clients ankles and it was also small width wise which meant that the dress was unable to close.
I overcame these problems in my second model by changing the dimensions of the patterns as well as slightly altering them by using the new technical drawing I had made. Once the model was complete and fit the client properly, we decided to have some changes in manufacturing. For instance, the shoulders would be in the sleeveless style with the sleeves attached at the end, this would also make it easier to wear the dress. We also decided that instead of the tulle skirt and chiffon skirt being the same length, we would make the tulle slightly shorter so that it would be hidden when the chiffon skirt was over on top. Also we felt that the bodice being split into 4 pieces was not a good idea so instead we made it into a front and back and added darts instead, this effectively gave a much more neater look to the final design. Now that I knew what I had to do I started the manufacturing process. Personally, I think it went very well. The first thing I did was go get the material for the dress, tulle, satin silk, lace, chiffon and acetate. I then started to manufacture the dress, I faced very little problems during manufacturing except when the seams were not straight or if I accidently sewed the wrong side of the material together. Overall, I was very pleased with my final product, I serged the majority of the inside seams to stop the fabrics from fraying. If I were to remake my final product in stead of white thread I would use the same shade of blue as the material to give a more professional feel to the product. Personally I feel that my final product met my specifications and brief. After I had developed my design, instead of the wearing the he dress in two ways the client was able to wear it in 3 different ways: tulle dress, chiffon dress, chiffon skirt. Also I received excellent feedback from the client as well as different consumers. Therefore, I feel that my project was successful. If this product was to be produces on an industrial scale, I feel it would take much less time to make due to the there being many people working on making the product,
Nismah Siddique
Design Technology
AS Product Design Project