UPFRONT

IN BRIEF

Go glamping in Grootvadersbosch

Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve – in the foothills of the Langeberg in the Western Cape – has set up five new luxury safari tents, each with a view of forest and mountains.

On sunny days you can roll up the canvas walls and feel as though you’re truly living outdoors. Birdsong fills the air: Red-chested cuckoo, sombre greenbul, greater doublecollared sunbird…

When the weather takes a chillier turn, batten down the hatches and play cards around the table. (Tip: August gets pretty windy. Rather opt to stay in one of their chalets.)

Each tent is fully equipped for self-catering and can sleep either three adults, or two adults and two children, on a stretcher bed and sleeper couch.

The glamp camp is in an opening on the edge of the forest, which was previously used as two private campsites. In accordance with CapeNature’s movement towards more sustainable building practices, the existing bathrooms have been incorporated into two of the luxury tents: Boekenhout and Yellowwood. Those tents also have sheltered braai areas at the back. The remaining three tents have outdoor showers. Red Alder is wheelchair-friendly.

Although they’re close together, the tents are relatively private. Once the shrubbery separating each one has grown out a bit, you won’t be in danger of seeing your neighbour in his pyjamas and slippers.

Grootvadersbosch also has some “regular” campsites, and stands with amenities like a deck, plus a sink, shelf, braai area, table and benches. Ablutions are shared.

A kilometre west of reception, the old forestry cabins on a hill have been converted into tidy self-catering chalets. Where? Grootvadersbosch is about 45 km east of Swellendam via the N2 and the R324. Rates: Camping from R190 per night for two people. Glamping from R570 per night for two people, plus R185 per extra person. Chalets from R980 per night for four people. Contact: 087 087 8250; capenature.co.za – Esma Marnewick

SNAKE FILES

ROOTING FOR TREES IN THE MOTHER CIT Y

De Waal Park in Oranjezicht is beloved by Capetonians for the natural oasis it provides in an otherwise bustling city.

Part of its attraction lies in the 630 trees planted over the years, many of which are indigenous additions donated by the Friends of De Waal Park association.

Now, thanks to an initiative by plant enthusiast Tielman Haumann (pictured, top), you can pick up a tree route map (R10) at the Bandstand on your way in and take yourself on a tour of the park’s most impressive trees.

The map is numbered (1 – 38) and each tree has a corresponding black plaque. Green story tags and QR codes provide interesting facts about the tree. For example, the seeds of the carob tree are so consistent in mass (200 mg each) that they were used as a standard unit of measurement by ancient Arab traders to weigh gold and gemstones! Where? The self-guided tour starts at the northwest entrance to the park, on the corner of Molteno Road and Camp Street in Oranjezicht. Map? If the Bandstand isn’t open, contact Tielman on 082 452 8085 and arrange to collect a map from him directly.

– Kyra Tarr

Tielman also offers guided plant tours at 4 pm on Sunday afternoons, starting at Van Riebeeck Park in Oranjezicht. Contact him for more information. JUVENILE BOOMSLANG

IS RA MA JOHAN

Through the eye of a snake

Although snakes have good eyesight, their eyes are most adept at detecting movement. Hence the old warning: Stand perfectly still when you encounter a snake. It’s good advice. Even better advice is backing off as quickly as possible! Once you’re 5 m or more away from any snake, you are relatively safe and unlikely to get bitten. Snakes are unlikely to strike at stationary objects or at people, unless they resemble or smell like prey.

Only two snakes in South Africa are believed to have superior vision and are capable of seeing stationary prey: The boomslang and the twig or vine snake. These snakes have binocular vision like humans; most other snakes have monocular vision, which means the eyes don’t register images in co-ordination with each another.

Snakes do not have moveable eyelids. Instead, a fixed transparent shield, shed with the rest of the skin during the sloughing process, covers the eye. This is a feature we can use to distinguish snakes from legless lizards, as most lizards have eyelids.

You can tell a lot about a snake’s behaviour by looking at its eyes. Take the pupil, for example: Snakes with vertically elliptic (cat-like) pupils are generally nocturnal, whereas snakes with round pupils are diurnal, meaning they are active during the daytime.

The position of the eye is also important. Many water snakes such as the dusky-bellied water snake, and desert snakes like the Peringuey’s adder, have eyes on the top of the head. For water snakes, this allows them to ambush prey and watch out for predators while submerged; for desert-dwelling snakes, it means they can bury themselves in the sand with only the top of their head and eyes exposed to ambush passing lizards.

The diameter of the eye compared to the head tells us about the snake’s lifestyle. Arboreal snakes, like the spotted bush snake and the boomslang, have large eyes with good vision, while underground snakes, like Bibron’s blind snake, have small eyes with poor vision.

And lastly, did you know that diurnal snakes, like mambas and cobras, have colour vision, while most nocturnal snakes only see in black and white?

– Johan Marais

Visit africansnakebiteinstiture.com for more information.

PIT STOP

Veldskoen Padstal, De Doorns

Veldskoen Padstal in De Doorns is one of those farm stalls that has thrown away the training wheels and embraced “institution” status.

If you’re heading into the Karoo from the Worcester side, or if you’re coming from the other direction after many hours of hard driving on the N1, Veldskoen should be a mandatory stop.

If the cheerfully painted façade, shady picnic spots and fragrant rose garden don’t draw you in, the tasty treats and preserves certainly will. Unusual items on the shelves include pickled quail’s eggs (R119,50), fruit rolls of all shapes and sizes (from R36,50), blackberry compote (R79,50), dried apple rings (R24,50) – when last? – and beautiful tubs of Rio Largo olive oil (R189,50). That’s your pantry sorted.

Next, you might like to move on to the small antique store that’s attached to the farm stall. It has everything from old coffee tins to silverware and table linen. Even if you aren’t a shopper at heart, the curiosities warrant a nostalgic smile.

If you’re hungry, pull up a chair and choose from an extensive breakfast and lunch menu. The Veldskoen breakfast includes two fried eggs, bacon, boerewors, pan-fried mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, toast and preserves, all for R98. Lunch could range from a home-made beef burger (R95) to an open sandwich or salad.

The ingredients are truly splendid. After all, farm stalls get to tap into fresh, regional produce and Veldskoen exploits this privilege unapologetically. We’re talking buttermilk flapjacks with maple syrup (R75) and cheese and tomato toasties with onion marmalade and basil pesto (R62). It’s a verifiable foodie heaven!

The little ones can stretch their legs in the outdoor area, which also has a trampoline. Contact: veldskoenpadstal.co.za

– Kyra Tarr

VIEW FROM HERE Othmane Zolati

The 27-year-old recently completed a four-year, 30 000km journey on foot, bicycle and skateboard through 24 African countries, finishing at the southernmost tip of the continent in Cape Agulhas. Watch his documentary Africa and I on Showmax.

Have you always loved adventure? As the only boy born to a conservative Moroccan family with three sisters, I was pretty shy growing up. This changed at the age of 12 when my friends and I rode through a forest near our home town of El Jadida. We only ventured 15km or so, but it was the furthest I’d ever been from home at that point. I remember falling behind and crying because I was alone and afraid. All the teasing that followed made me decide to live a more adventurous life. From that day on I became a competitive cyclist and started doing trips throughout Morocco.

When did you start your epic journey? For many years, I had a dream of travelling to Dakar, the capital of Senegal, after seeing a signpost on one of my biking trips.

After completing my studies at the age of 20, I set off for Senegal with nothing more than a backpack and $80 to my name.

On the day I left home, I hitch-hiked to the border and crossed into Mauritania, the country that separates Morocco and Senegal. All my energy was focused on getting to Senegal; within a week I arrived in Rosso, a town on the Senegal River.

What was Senegal like? It was everything I thought it would be. I learnt how to climb tall palm trees, cut coconuts, and I ate fruit I don’t even know the name of. I braided baskets, cut trees using traditional equipment, learnt how to prepare coal, paddled traditional canoes, fished with traditional fishing rods and nets, and cultivated rice for the first time in my life.

I experienced the true meaning of sharing love and peace, which the Senegalese call teraanga. Is that when you decided to continue your travels? After a month in Senegal, I decided to move on. I travelled to Mali, where I was arrested on the border because I “looked like a terrorist”. After that, I travelled to Ivory Coast, where I settled for a while to make money for my journey. I worked as a shoe-seller and then in a hardware store.

It was there that I contracted malaria from living outdoors; sleeping on top of containers or under trucks when it rained.

Things turned around for me in Ivory Coast when I found a comfortable factory job where I helped to make biscuits and sweets. After a while I found myself falling into the traps of modern, capitalist living again. I set a goal to save enough money to buy myself a camera and a bicycle, and then move on.

I went to Ghana, Togo and Benin. There, visa struggles held me up for a while, but sometime later I flew for the very first time – to Ethiopia.

Incredible adventures! Is there one particular experience that stands out? In Ethiopia, I decided to cycle to Kenya through the desert on my own. I veered off course and got lost for five days. I realise now how close I came to death, but more importantly, how great the human spirit for survival is.

I eventually made it to Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, where I met some fellow Moroccans and stayed with them for a couple of days. The money I had made in Ivory Coast was almost finished, so they supported me with some much-appreciated funding to continue my travels and realise what had become my dream: Making it all the way to the southernmost tip of Africa.

I carried on to Tanzania and experienced the “dream island” of Zanzibar. After that I travelled to Uganda and Rwanda.

By this stage, some people had cottoned on to what I was doing. I was even interviewed for a TV programme. I realised then that what I was doing was noteworthy, and I wanted to share my experience of Africa with more people.

Did you feel threatened at any point? I don’t think there is any adventure without a bit of danger. However, the only incident of real “crime” I experienced was when $50 were stolen from me in Malawi. It meant that I entered Zambia with only $5 to my name.

How did it feel when you finally made it to South Africa? It felt incredible, especially since I’d had to travel to Botswana and Eswatini to make my way in with the appropriate visa. After getting to Johannesburg, I continued my journey to Cape Agulhas on my skateboard, which I’d started riding because my bicycle chain gave out. (I started skateboarding in Mozambique and skated through Malawi, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Eswatini.)

The final 5km section to Agulhas was surreal. The memories of everything I’d been through to get to that point played out in my head: saying goodbye to my family four years previously, getting malaria, fishing in Senegal, sleeping in the rain, getting lost in the desert… It was then that I understood nothing in life happens as quickly as we want it to, and maybe that’s a good thing.

I said to myself: I am Othmane Zolati. I am an adventurer. People like me don’t give up; we finish what we set out to do.

Watch Africa and I on Showmax or follow Othmane on Instagram and Facebook: @zolatiothmane

BOOKS Books are the ideal Christmas gift: They keep you busy you to a different world and – best of all – they’re easy selection for every kind of reader. for hours, transport to wrap! Here’s a

COMPILED BY MARTINETTE LOUW

Blood Trail

by Tony Park, Pan Macmillan R300 in bookstores

Australian author Tony Park weaves another thrilling tale set on local shores, this time basing the action in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve next to the Kruger Park.

When young girls and a tourist disappear from the reserve and adjacent land, captain Sannie van Rensburg of the South African police force teams up with tracker Mia Greenaway to try and find them. Along the way, they uncover a poaching ring targeting the reserve’s rhinos, but the poachers use witchcraft to disappear right before their eyes…

Park pays close attention to detail; you can almost smell the bruised leaves of the Lowveld shrubs as the characters run through the veld in hot pursuit. The crime mystery is central to the story, but Park also touches on conservation issues, the effect of Covid-19 on the tourism industry, and traditional beliefs and medicine.

The narrative is fast-paced: You’ll be swept along and kept on the edge of your hammock this summer – the perfect escape after a long year.

Rogues’ Gallery: An Irreverent History of Corruption in South Africa, from the VOC to the ANC

by Matthew Blackman & Nick Dall, Penguin Random House R230 in bookstores

You wouldn’t think corruption could be funny, but somehow Matthew Blackman and Nick Dall manage to discuss some of the most corrupt figures in South African history in a way that keeps you entertained. (Regular go! readers might recognise Dall’s name: He’s written many columns and features for the magazine.)

Willem Adriaan van der Stel, Cecil John Rhodes, Paul Kruger, Lucas Mangope, Jacob Zuma… South Africa has a long and sad history of theft, fraud and dodgy government tenders. Many of our popular travel destinations also have a shady past: Read this book, and next time you visit places like Sun City, the Selati Railway Bridge in the Kruger Park, and Vergelegen wine estate, you’ll look at them with new eyes.

It’s a heavy topic examined with a light touch, and while it seems like an unlikely beach read, you’ll have trouble putting this book down once you start.

Meat: The Ultimate Guide

by Annelien Pienaar, Human & Rousseau R380 in bookstores

This recipe book is for the carnivorous cook in your life. Food scientist Annelien Pienaar has put together more than a hundred recipes for beef, lamb and mutton, pork, poultry, offal and venison. There’s also a section on marinades, sauces, seasonings and pickles that pair well with meat. The dishes are packed with flavour: fillet with smoked mussels and mushrooms; Tuscan chicken with oven-dried tomato marmalade; duck breasts with port and cherry sauce…

With this book on your kitchen shelf, you won’t just cook up a storm, you’ll also learn new things on every page. Pienaar sets out the different meat cuts and cooking methods, explains how best to freeze and age meat, and defines commonly used terminology. Who doesn’t want to throw around words like barde, quenelles and réchauffé – and actually know what they mean?

Pienaar also authored the popular Boerekos with a Twist (2018) and follows the same recipe here by combining traditional fare with modern takes.

Pollinators, Predators & Parasites

by Clarke Scholtz, Jenny Scholtz & Hennie de Klerk, Struik Nature R590 in bookstores

As far as the mammal species of southern Africa are concerned, most of us can tell one furry creature from another. Even bird species can be mastered. But insects! With close to 50 000 described species that crawl, fly and hop, it’s almost impossible to identify all the creepy crawlies you come across.

This comprehensive guide will tell you everything you need to know about insects in great detail – from their diet, their defence mechanisms and life cycles, to their role in the ecosystem. The 25 insect orders of our region are discussed according to the 13 biomes they’re found in; the chapter about insects in urban environments is especially handy. Now you can find out the name of that pesky bug with the orange legs that eats your clivias!

Whether you want to brush up on the taxonomy or morphology of insects, or just find the name of an insect, this guide with illustrations and more than 1600 colour photos holds the answer.

– Sophia van Taak

Walking Safaris of South Africa

by Hlengiwe Magagula and Denis Costello, Struik Travel & Heritage R270 in bookstores

South Africans are spoilt with the variety of nature reserves in our country. So much so that you start to feel a bit blasé when you see another elephant or buffalo while out on a game drive. But when you explore the same habitat on foot, you realise how wild it really is. A wilderness hike refreshes you, teaches you new things, and brings you back to earth in more than one way.

This book covers 59 guided hikes in 18 of our country’s most scenic reserves, plus a few routes in neighbouring Botswana and eSwatini. Each entry gives a short overview of the conservation area and its hiking trails, and tells you how much it costs, how big your hiking group can be, which season is the best time to hike, and how to make a booking.

There’s about one route per page – lots of adventures, in other words… Time to dust off your hiking boots!

– Sophia van Taak

!Qhoi n|a Tjhoi/ Tortoise and Ostrich

by Katrina Esau, New Africa Books R120 at puku.co.za

If you love languages and African folk tales, add this children’s book to your collection. Katrina Esau is the last surviving mother-tongue speaker of N|uu, one of the oldest and most endangered languages in the world. Esau lives in Upington, where she works to promote the oral stories and culture of the N|uu people.

In this book, Esau tells the tale of Tortoise and Ostrich in N|uu. When Tortoise finds a clay pot half-hidden in the Kalahari sand, he wants to take it home. But Ostrich shows up and wants the pot for himself. Ostrich challenges Tortoise to a race – who will win the pot?

Esau narrated this story and her granddaughter, Claudia Snyman, put it to paper. It’s accompanied by English and Afrikaans translations and illustrated by Stanley Grootboom.

The book is aimed at children aged 6 – 10, but since it’s the first children’s book published in N|uu, you might want a piece of history for yourself, too.

The Lost Book of Adventure

edited by Teddy Keen, Frances Lincoln Children’s Books R445 at takealot.com

This fun read, with its beautiful illustrations, might look like a children’s book but it’s for anyone who dreams of adventure and wild places. In fact, you could say it’s an encyclopaedia of adventure! Everything you need to know about the outdoors is described here: how to build a shelter, what to put in your survival kit, how to read a map, navigate a river…

The book itself is of mysterious origins – it was compiled using notes and sketches found in a hut deep in the Amazon rainforest, apparently left there by an unknown adventurer. This person travelled the world and saw many wonderful things. He or she shares their experiences of a sandstorm in the Sahara, a bike ride through Africa, the Northern Lights, emperor penguins in Antarctica…

Read this book at home on the couch, but also take it along on holiday in case you get lost or forget the firelighters at home. – Esma Marnewick

How many ways can you say goodbye?

by Refiloe Moahloli, Penguin Random House R180 in bookstores

Bye, so long, see you later… Your kids probably have lots of ways of saying goodbye to their friends in their mother tongue, but can they say goodbye in all 11 of South Africa’s official languages?

In this follow-up to her book, How many ways can you say hello? (2017), Refiloe Moahloli teaches you how to do just that. Sara and her friends take a ride in a hot-air balloon, making stops at the seaside, at a carnival, and in the bushveld. Along the way, they say goodbye to their friends as they drop them off at home.

The story is written in rhyming verse and accompanied by colourful illustrations by Anja Stoeckigt. If you’re worried that you might get the pronunciation wrong when you read the book aloud, there’s a QR code up front to download a narration by the author. Soon you’ll all be able to confidently say “tsamaya hantle” in Sesotho, “hamba kahle” in isiZulu, “totsiens” in Afrikaans and more.