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Sin Fronteras travel without borders
Guatemala | May 2014
THE CITY OF ANTIGUA FULL OF HISTORIC BUILDINGS, MONUMENTS, AND RUINS
Bienvenido!
EXPERIENCE OUR HOME AND BECOME PART OF THE FAMILY
Tikal Lives On REMAINS OF DWELLINGS STILL SCATTERED AROUND
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BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES
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CONTENTS April 2014 | Sin Frontereas
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Tikal Lives On
In the heart of the Petén Basin, enclosed by vegetation, lies one Mayan civilization.
Features 18 Bienvenido Guatemalans have a reputation as some of the most civil, polite people in Latin America.
36 National Palace Identified as the city’s symbol in its monumental architectural context and the headquarters of the President of Guatemala.
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Adventures 30 Lake Atitlán A fairly large lake for the elevation in the Guatemala highlands.
32 Chichicastenango Chichicastenango is well known for its famous market days on Thursdays and Sundays.
39 Pacaya Volcano One of most active volcanoes, and its frequent eruptions can be seen from Guatemala City.
45 Esquipulas Known as the main point of the Central Catholic pilgrimage.
48 Dulce River A part of a lake and river system that has become a popular cruising sailboat destination.
52 Antigua Well-preserved Spanish Baroque influenced architecture.
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Lifestyle 28 Chapina Cuisine The cuisine of Guatemala is a mix from both the Mayan and Spanish heritage of the country.
43 Education Over half of Guatemala’s population lives in a state of poverty or extreme poverty. Average schooling is only four years.
55 Rural Poverty Those living in rural areas are the most vulnerable, and poverty is highly concentrated among the indigenous communities.
58 Marketplace Vividly clashing colors of tribal affiliation blend into the chaotic perfection, an enduring and impressive sight.
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Tikal
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Lives On by Kaitlyn Barrett
he ancient city became overgrown, and the hundreds of temples and other structures were lost to the jungle. The city lay hidden by the jungle for centuries. The local people, however, never forgot about Tikal and they guided Guatemalan expeditions to the ruins in the 1850s. The site was visited by various explorers, archaeologists and adventurers during the next 100 years, From 1956 through 1970, major archaeological excavations were carried out by the University of Pennsylvania which uncovered nearly 10 square miles of ruins. They mapped much of the site and excavated and restored many of the structures. This work has been continued by the Guatemalan government, and ongoing excavations are almost continuous. Tikal was the capital of a state that became one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya. Though monumental architecture at the site dates back as far as the 4th century BC, Tikal peaked during the Classic Period, about 200 to 900 AD. During this time, the city dominated much of the Maya region politically, economically, and militarily, while interacting with areas throughout Mesoamerica such as the great metropolis of Teotihuacan in the distant Valley of Mexico. It often clashed, conquered, traded with and engaged with other cities in the region, and was prosperous until the general decline of Mayan civilization about 900 AD, at which time it was abandoned. Tikal at its height, was a dominating and important economical and political power in MesoAmerica,
but fell into ruins as did all the other such centers around 800AD to h1000 AD. It was eventually consumed by the jungle. The population of Tikal grew continuously starting in the Preclassic Period (approximately 2000 BC – AD 200), and peaked with the population of an estimated 120,000 by the year 830 AD. This was followed by a sharp decline in population in line with the general Mayan collapse. The Mayans had a complex form of hieroglyphic writing that was found carved on the stele (stone tablets) and altars that dot most of the site. Pictures depicting events and the beliefs of the time, were carved in the lintels, stone steps,and various walls throughout the temples and tombs. Tikal was able to prosper with intensive agricultural techniques which allowed the area to feed itself, but left it vulnerable to drought, which is thought by some to have played a role in the collapse of the Maya civilization. It is theorized that the most likely cause of collapse at Tikal is overpopulation and agrarian failure. The fall of Tikal was a blow to the heart of Classic Maya civilization, the city having been at the forefront for over a thousand years, with an ancient ruling dynasty. As Tikal and its hinterland reached peak population, the area suffered deforestation, erosion and nutrient loss followed by a rapid decline in population levels. The park’s main gate opens at 6 am and closes at 6 pm. Adult tickets are under $20. Maps are available outside the Visitor’s Center, and walking trails wind
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“The architecture of the ancient city is built from limestone and includes the remains of temples that tower up to 230 feet high and large royal palaces”
through the temple complexes. The visitor’s center offers food and drink, but there is no ATM at the park or the adjacent hotels. In the main area there is the parking lot, 3 hotels, a museum and visitors’ center, post office, campground, souvenir handicraft shops, and three local eating places. Also there is a guide service and information desk, and a restaurant overlooking the jungle. A smaller museum housing some of Tikal’s artifacts is located near the hotel area. There is no Tikal village or town at the park other than the visitor center and gift shops. There is also lodging in Flores and El Remate. Located within the 6,000 square miles, Tikal National Park is made up of 222 square miles of jungle surrounding the ceremonial
center. Maya Biosphere in the northern part of Petén. The major architecture of the site is clustered upon areas of higher ground and linked by raised causeways spanning the swamps, and most of Tikal Park structures remain covered with jungle growth recognized only as large mounds of rocks over grown by trees. The partially restored area consists of nine groups of courts and plazas. There are five large temples. One of the most impressive and tallest structures is 230 feet high. More than 285 species of exotic birds and animals live in the park. In addition, there are hundreds of orchid species and more than 30 hardwood species. Tikal is a bird watchers paradise, and is considered one of the best birding areas of Central
America. Some of the wildlife species commonly seen in the national park include: howler monkeys, spider monkeys, ocellated turkeys, coatimundi, crocodiles, and gray fox. Others not as common are jaguars, pumas and ocelots. Conspicuous trees at the Tikal park include gigantic kapok; tropical cedar, and Honduras Mahogany. Average annual rainfall is 76.6 inches a year. Tikal was ruled by a powerful dynasty which sometimes, but not always, passed power down from father to son. This unnamed family ruled Tikal for generations until 378 AD when Great Jaguar Paw, last of the line, was apparently defeated militarily or somehow deposed by Fire is Born, who was most likely from Teotihuacán, a mighty city located near present-day Mexico City.
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Fire is Born started a new dynasty with close cultural and trade ties to Teotihuacán. Tikal continued on its path to greatness under the new rulers, who introduced cultural elements such as pottery design, architecture and art in the Teotihuacán style. Tikal aggressively pursued its dominance of the whole southeastern Maya region. The city of Copán, in present-day Honduras, was founded by Tikal, as was the city of Dos Pilas. Tikal was an aggressive superpower which frequently scrapped with its neighbors, but its most important conflict was with the city-state of Calakmul, located in the present-day Mexican state of Campeche. Their rivalry began sometime in the sixth century as they vied for vassal states and influence. Calakmul was able to turn some of Tikal’s vassal states against their former ally, most notably Dos Pilas and Quiriguá. In 562 Calakmul and its allies defeated Tikal in battle, beginning a hiatus in Tikal’s power. Until 692 AD there would be no carved dates on Tikal monuments and the historical records of this time are scant. In 695, Jasaw K’awiil I defeated Calakmul, helping propel Tikal back to its former glory. There are four architectural areas in the central cleared area: the Great Plaza, North Acropolis, Central Acropolis, and Mundo Perdido (Lost World Complex). The outstanding feature of these structures is their monumental size as high as 230 feet. Architecture of the ancient city is built from limestone and includes the remains of temples that tower up to 230 feet high and large royal palaces. In addition to a number of smaller pyramids, palaces, residences, administrative buildings, platforms and inscribed stone monuments. There are also seven ball courts. The limestone used for construction was local and quarried on-site. The holes left by the removal of stone were plastered to waterproof them and were used as reservoirs, together with some waterproofed natural depressions. The main plazas were surfaced with stucco and channeled rainfall into a system of canals that fed the reservoirs. The residential area of Tikal covers an estimated 23 square miles, much of which has not yet been cleared, mapped, or excavated. A huge set of earthworks has been discovered ringing Tikal with a 20 foot wide trench behind a rampart.
Left: The Great Plaza consists of two temples and also a grand ball court. Right: Model of Temple II which showcases the entrance of the national park.
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Around the time of the Late Classic, a network of sacbeob (cauhseways) linked various parts of the city, running for several miles. These linked the Great Plaza with Temple IV and the Temple of the Inscriptions. These causeways were built of packed and plastered limestone and helped the passage of everyday traffic during the rainy season and also served as dams. The Great Plaza lies at the core of the site; it is flanked on the east and west sides by two great temple-pyramids. On the north side it is bordered by the North Acropolis and on the south by the Central Acropolis, which is very popular for visitors. The North Acropolis, together with the Great Plaza immediately to the south, is one of the most studied architectural groups in the Maya area. After AD 400 a row of tall pyramids was added to the earlier Northern Platform, which measured 330 by 260 feet, gradually hiding it from view. Eight temple pyramids were built in the 6th century AD, each of them had an elaborate roof comb and a stairway flanked by masks of the gods. By the 9th century AD, 43 stelae (stone tablets) and 30 altars had been erected in the North Acropolis; 18 of these monuments were carved with hieroglyphic texts and royal portraits. The South Acropolis was built upon a large basal platform that covers an area of more than 220,000 square feet. There are thousands of ancient structures at Tikal and only a fraction of these have been excavated, after decades of archaeological work. The most prominent surviving buildings include six very large step pyramids, labeled Temples I–VI, each of which support a temple structure on their summits. Some of these pyramids are over 200 feet. Temple IV, the tallest temple-pyramid at Tikal, measures 230 feet from the plaza floor level to the top of its roof comb. In fact, it is the tallest per-Columbian structure in the Americas, rising above the jungle canopy. An early morning view looking east from the top Temple IV one can see the tops of three other temples and the sunrise rising above the jungle, a favorite and very popular photo in Tikal. Tikal was ruled by a powerful dynasty which sometimes, but not always, passed power down from father to son. This unnamed family ruled Tikal
for generations until 378 A.D. when Great Jaguar Paw, last of the line, was apparently defeated militarily or somehow deposed by Fire is Born, who was most likely from Teotihuacán, a mighty city located near present-day Mexico City. Fire is Born started a new dynasty with close cultural and trade ties to Teotihuacán. Tikal continued on its path to greatness under the new rulers, who introduced cultural elements such as pottery design, architecture and art in the Teotihuacán style. Tikal aggressively pursued its dominance of the whole southeastern Maya region. The city of Copán, in present-day Honduras, was founded by Tikal, as was the city of Dos Pilas. Tikal was an aggressive superpower which frequently scrapped with its neighbors, but its most important conflict was with the city-state of Calakmul, located in the present-day Mexican state of Campeche. Their rivalry began sometime in the sixth century as they vied for vassal states and influence. Calakmul was able to turn some of Tikal’s vassal states against their former ally, most notably Dos Pilas and Quiriguá. In 562 Calakmul and its allies defeated Tikal in battle, beginning a hiatus in Tikal’s power. Until 692 AD there would be no carved dates on Tikal monuments and the historical records of this time are scant. In 695, Jasaw K’awiil I defeated Calakmul, helping propel Tikal back to its former glory. The Tikal National Park also has this certain strong point that makes it an instant tourist spot. Besides its quite large area, which is very unsuitable for a day’s travelling or traversing by foot, the park looks like a jigsaw puzzle that people commonly see on games like Jumanji, Zuma and other jungle-themed movies. Burial sites, stelae, carved stones that look like mini monuments, altars and temples are also other things that will get the tourists moving during their stay in the Tikal National Park. These are highly maintained so that anything that might be informative and helpful to the visitors will not fade or get erased. Tourists should never pass up on such opportunity to see this heritage site and appreciate and be amazed at how the people in the area were able to preserve its beauty.
Left: Herbert Spinden’s drawing of a Tzendales stela. Right: Many groups manage to reenact dance rituals to give historical and contemporary perspective of the Mayans.
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Bienvenido! Welcome to our home by Joseph DÍaz Discover what it means to eat with our family and socializing with the locals. Mastering an understanding of local social etiquette will greatly enhance your trip.
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Left: A plate of tortilla with white cheese can fill you up just fine. Right: A typical Guatemalan breakfast.
slow political and economic recovery continued into the early 21st century. Elections have been held regularly since 1996, but, because there are many political parties, which tend to be small and shortlived, convergence on political solutions has been rare. Fear of a military return to power has preoccupied voters in the first years of the 21st century. On the basis of cultural traits, the population is divided into two main ethnic groups—Ladinos and Maya, who make up the vast majority of Indians in Guatemala and form several cultures. The Ladinos comprise those of mixed Hispanic-Maya origin. While the Maya account for slightly less than half of the country’s total population, they make up about three-fourths of the population in the western highland provinces. There are also some Spanish-speaking Xinka in southern Guatemala and more than 15,000 Garífuna (people of mixed African and Caribbean descent; formerly called Black Caribs) in the northeastern port towns of Livingston and Puerto Barrios. Their ancestors immigrated to the Central American coast from Caribbean islands in the 18th century. Ladinos, who speak Spanish exclusively are the more commercially and politically influential group. They tmake up most of the urban population. Guatemalan society is marked by pronounced extremes in the conduct of daily life. In Guatemala City, elite families live much as they do in the cosmopolitan centres of developed countries, communicating by e-mail, cell phones, and beepers. On the other hand, within an hour’s drive of the capital are indigenous people whose patterns of daily life reflect those of past centuries and whose communities continue to be knit
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together by market life. Sharp contrasts perBaroque cathedral. Guatemala’s national day of independence from Spain, September 15, vade Guatemalan culture, whether it be in the language spoken or in matters pertaining is also celebrated across the country with to the household, cuisine, attire, or family fireworks, dances, parades, football (soccer) affairs.Guatemalans are increasingly exposed matches, and cockfights. At these festivals, to the intrusion of foreign influences upon indigenous crafts are sold, including the their way of life. All aspects of communicaembroidered huipils (smocks) worn by Maya tion—periodical news, the comics, soap opwomen. Guatemalans celebrate All Saints’ eras, film—are primarily of foreign origin. A Day on November 1 with unique traditions: multitude of products, from soaps and boxed giant kites are flown in the cemeteries near Antigua Guatemala, and many Guatemalans cereals and bottled drinks to automobiles, bear foreign brand names. Nevertheless, in feast on a traditional food known as filocal Mayan villages, colourful native attire ambre, a salad made from cold cuts, fish, is still common and varies according to the and vegetables. The town of Todos Santos village and also depending Cuchumatán holds horse “Don’t engage in loud and races and traditional dancon the language group. Heavily attended fairs aggressive behavior. They ing on this day. Guatemala and religious festivals are City celebrates the Feast tend to be polite and on scheduled in every part of of the Assumption of the the formal side. ” Guatemala throughout the Virgin Mary on August 15. year. Semana Santa (Holy Week), at Easter, is Weekly market days in Indian villages are marked by festivals throughout the country, important social gatherings; one of the best but many Guatemalans travel to Antigua known is the market in Chichicastenango. Guatemala to attend services at its great Locals are often suspicious of foreigners
taking photographs, particularly of young children. Before approaching children for photos, or even just to talk to them, you should check with an an adult that this is acceptable. However, if you are in any doubt, refrain from doing so. You may be asked to pay a small amount of money to take photographs of both children and adults. Don’t engage in loud and aggressive behavior. Guatemalans tend to be polite and on the formal side. Address people you don’t know in a formal manner (Señor, Señora, Usted), and greet people in the following way: day – “buenos dias” “feliz dia”; night – “feliz noche” “buenas noches”. You’ll encounter this in more suburban, rural areas. Native Guatemalans are raised to greet strangers formally.A handshake, although not a firm one, is the common form of greeting. Men may lightly kiss a woman on the cheek in greeting, but this is reserved for women they know well. It is considered polite to stand when greeting someone. Conversations about family, travels and
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A family in Amatitlán visits each other for a weekend.
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When they mention their own family, the image is often of a loving household.
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Guests have no need to enter the kitchen, unless the cook specifically requests for your assistance.
hobbies are appropriate. When you mention your own family, it’s best to present the image of a loving household. Guatemalans are close to their own families and often continue to live with their parents well into their 30s.Two men or two women may stand very close together during conversation. When a man talks to a woman, the distance is generally greater. Do not cross your arms, it will be taken as an indication that you are bored or uncomfortable. Many Guatemalans
will look around instead of maintaining eye contact when they are speaking. This is not meant to be rude. If you are invited to a Guatemalan’s home, it is likely that his wife will serve everyone first, even if there are servants, and then will be seated herself. Unless you are attending a meal served in a household from the privileged class that observes Europeanstyle customs, all of the food will be served at once. If the meal takes place in a private
home, bring a small gift to indicate your appreciation.However, do not bring a gift of food your hosts will think that you do not appreciate the food they have prepared or that you consider the woman of the house an inadequate cook. It is appropriate to eat everything you are served. If you don’t like the taste of something, just attempt to eat a bit of it. If you cannot eat something for health or religious reasons, explain this and apologise for any
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Dining at Home Etiquette Tips 1 Drinks are usually served prior to eating. This begins with a toast of “salud” then followed by drinking and lively conversation. 2 With the arrival of the food, you may be asked to join in a short prayer. 3 Keep your hands in sight by resting your wrists on the table and you should eat in the continental style. 4 Asking for additional food is a great compliment so try to take small portions at first. 5 .When tortillas are involved; break off enough of your tortilla to take as a single bite, then scope some food and eat it. Depening on social status, you may expect variations of dining in Guatemala
inconvenience it may cause. They will easily understand and forgive you. At the start of a meal, it is the custom to say to everyone, “Buen provecho.” (Enjoy your food.) Most Guatemalans are fairly quiet once the food is served. Compliments about the food will be welcome. In some areas of the countryside, food is eaten with the hands. Follow the lead of your hosts. Napkins are provided. There are no special rules about their use.If you must leave the table, before
getting up say, “Con permiso, ya vengo.” (With your permission, I’ll be right back.) It’s appropriate to stand when someone arrives at the table. If you do not want to drink, say, “Lo siento, pero yo no tomo.” (Sorry, I don’t drink alcohol.) Guatemalan women are expected not to drink. If they do, they have only a glass of champagne at most. This rule is applied to foreign women as well. Women who drink are oftentimes considered “easy.”The standard toast is to raise your glass
and say, “Salud!” You should always offer your own toast: say how pleased you are to be in Guatemala and commend everyone for treating you in such a family-like manner. If you are invited to a restaurant, your host will pay. It is appropriate to offer to pay for your part of the meal, but your offer will be politely declined. Reciprocate your host’s hospitality with an invitation of your own soon afterward.
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Chapina Cuisine Chapina: It is a nick name for people from Guatemala. Chapina is the feminine form of the word chapin. This is not a derogatory term.
Popular Dishes 1
1 Taquitos
Fried rolled up corn tortillas filled with meat or chicken, top it with white cheese, sauce, and parsley.
2 Chiles Rellenos
Fried bell peppers stuffed with meat and vegetables, covered in whipped egg whites and onion.
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3 Caldo de Res
Beef and vegetable soup, often eaten with rice and tortillas.
4 Churrasco
Grilled meat topped with a spicy salsa, corn, potatoes, guacamole, stewed black beans, rice, and tortillas on the side
5 Enchilada
Tortillas stacked with tomato sauce, lettuce, beets, cabbage, meat, slices of egg, onion rings, cheese, and top it with parsley. 3
4 5
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Desserts
1
2
3
1
Rellenitos de Plátano
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Flan
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Torrejas
Small balls of fried mashed plantains filled with sweetened black beans, then sprinkle on top sugar.
A round custard dessert with a layer of soft caramel on top.
Different kinds of sweet bread soaked in syrup with raisins.
EXPERIENCE SIN FRONTERAS ON YOUR IPAD Learn how to make your own Chapina Cuisine!
For the Holidays Fiambre
A salad of sausages and cold cuts, pickled baby-corn and onion, beets, pacaya flower, different cheeses, olives, and chicken.
Tamale
Cooked dough that is filled with, meat, covered with a special sauce, and finally wrapped in a plantain leaf.
Sin Fronteras travel without borders
Costa Rica | June 2014
RAINFOREST ADVENTURE
ZIP LINE YOUR WAY DOWN
MONTEVERDE
100
FROG SPECIES AT THE RANARIUM
San José Charm
GET A GLIMPSE OF WHAT COSTA RICA LIFE IS LIKE
30 May 2014