Desert Companion - December 2022

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2022
The city’s most inspiring people and places in dining now Street Eats A Chinatown tour, true momand-pops, chefs we miss, and more U.S. $4.99 DECEMBER 2022 • Holiday Guide: Get festive, give back! +
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( EXTRAS ) 4 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 80 HIKE OF THE MONTH Trek a former gold mine, and use the opportunity to give back By Miles Brady and Heidi Kyser 6 EDITOR’S NOTE ( COVER ) PHOTO BY Sabin Orr The Dining Issue 2022 Restaurant Awards The city’s most inspiring people and places in dining now Street Eats tour, true momand-pops, chefs we miss, and more • Holiday Guide: Get festive, give back! + ALL THINGS 11 THEATER Small companies still struggle post-COVID By David McKee 14 CONVERSATION A mom and daughter walk into a StoryCorps booth ... Edited by Anne Davis 16 BUSINESS Could UnCommons be the walkable urban utopia we need? By Jana Marquez 18 TIMELINE The signs of our city, through the ages By Lourdes Trimidal 18 ESSAY A world traveler finds home in a soccer pub
By Stefan Lovgren
SKETCH
milestones
A legendary promoter’s career, through five
Juan
novel conjures tough truths By
36 WRITER IN RESIDENCE How I learned to love Las Vegas honestly By Krista
FOOD+DRINK
29 STREET EATS Mom-and-pops, Chinatown spots, and chefs we miss By Jason Harris and Brent Holmes DEPARTMENT 38 COMMUNITY
FEATURES 44 RESTAURANT AWARDS Our annual celebration of the city’s best chefs and dining spots 69 HOLIDAY GUIDE
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Editor’s Note

E ATING MY WORDS

I’ll be honest: There was something I dreaded about taking the helm at Desert Companion a few months ago. It wasn’t the management meetings, board reports, HR paperwork, or even the stress of being responsible for the accuracy and appeal of every word in these pages. It was the annual Restaurant Awards. Don’t get me wrong, I love assigning and editing stories generally. But this specific story is not only Desert Companion ’s signature service piece, but also an entire project that lives beyond our pages. Once my part is done, Nevada Public Radio’s event and marketing staff swings into action, planning an awards dinner with trophies, distinguished guests, big reveals — the whole (nixtamalized corn, Oaxaca queso, and guajillo chile) enchilada.

My predecessor, Andrew Kiraly, who I swear has eaten at every restaurant in Las Vegas twice, loved dishing on chefs’ latest ventures with our esteemed critics. I enjoy food, too … in the manner of someone who follows Lidia Bastianich and uses cooking as therapy. In the last decade, I’ve trended toward spending less time and money in restaurants, more in the outdoors. Facing a table surrounded by Jim Begley, John Curtas, Genevie Durano, and Heidi Knapp Rinella, I was more daunted than facing a 20-mile hike.

But I also understood that this project isn’t about me. It’s about us, Las Vegas, as a food town. So, I did what journalists do. I asked questions — both in and outside the usual circle of sources. I listened. I took notes. And I’m glad I did, because not only did I learn more in the last two months about the local dining scene than I had in my previous 18 years here, but also, I understood the real reason why the restaurant awards are important (hint: it’s not the trophies). And I heard that readers want more — to celebrate the elevated and the pedestrian. So, to this issue, we’ve added a special dining section called Street Eats looking at people and places that bring joy to everyday dining in Las Vegas.

I’ve tried a few of the places in both the Restaurant Awards and Street Eats so far, and I’m feeling inspired to try many more. I’ve discovered it’s worth skipping a hike occasionally to support a hardworking chef. Thanks to the whole team, and our readers, for giving me an excuse to eat out tonight.

Bon appétit!

Heidi

MEET THE INTERNS

Currently a master’s student in UNLV’s journalism program, Anne Davis wants to pursue a career in print journalism after she graduates this month (yay!). When she’s not covering health and wellness, community issues, and politics, Anne enjoys reading, overthinking, and ballroom dancing. She says, “Coming into the Desert Companion newsroom each week has been the highlight of my last two semesters!”

Originally from Chicago, Jana Marquez is an avid writer who’s fascinated by Las Vegas stories. The UNLV journalism senior is a peer mentor for the Greenspun College of Urban Affairs, and a member of the A4 Zine Club and Prelaw Women of UNLV. Jana’s favorite parts of the DC internship?

“Going to cultural events and bonding with the editorial crew.”

A desert rat at heart, who also stays true to her islander (Filipino) roots, Lourdes Trimidal has always been a news buff and story seeker. Currently a Newscast Director at KSNV-TV (on top of interning at DC!), she still finds time to read articles about anything and everything happening in her hometown.

“It’s been an honor to work with the amazing journalists at Nevada Public Radio,” she says.

6 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022

PUBLISHER Mark Vogelzang

SENIOR DIRECTOR OF REVENUE

EDITOR Heidi Kyser

ART DIRECTOR Scott Lien

EDITORIAL INTERNS Anne Davis, Jana Marquez, Lourdes Trimidal

DESIGN INTERNS Alyssa Noji, Ryan Vellinga

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Allison Hall, Britt Quintana

REVENUE SYSTEMS COORDINATOR Marlies Vaitiekus

WEB ADMINISTRATOR Stanley Kan

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jim Begley, Miles Brady, John Curtas, Krista Diamond, Scott Dickensheets, Genevie Durano, Clement Gelly, Jason Harris, Brent Holmes, Heidi Knapp Rinella, Stefan Lovgren, David McKee, Mike Prevatt, Lissa Townsend Rodgers

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Brent Holmes, Sabin Orr, Jeff Scheid

CONTACT

EDITORIAL: Heidi Kyser, (702) 259-7855; heidi@desertcompanion.com

ADVERTISING: Favian Perez (702) 259-7813; favian@desertcompanion.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS: Marlies Vaitiekus (702) 259-7822; marlies@desertcompanion.com

WEBSITE: www.desertcompanion.com

Desert Companion is published bimonthly (woot!) by Nevada Public Radio, 1289 S. Torrey Pines Dr., Las Vegas, NV 89146. It is available by subscription at desertcompanion.vegas, or as part of Nevada Public Radio membership. It is also distributed free at select locations in the Las Vegas Valley. All photos, artwork and ad designs printed are the sole property of Desert Companion and may not be duplicated or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. The views of Desert Companion contributing writers are not necessarily the views of Desert Companion or Nevada Public Radio. Contact us for back issues, which are available for purchase for $7.95.

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CULTURE

Gimme Shelter

Local theaters struggle to keep a roof over their heads

FOOD,IDEAS,CULTURE, WAYSANDOTHER TO USE THIS CITY

It’s been 55 years since Paul Simon asked, “Is the theater really dead?” in his 1967 song “The Dangling Conversation.” Talk to several figures in Las Vegas’ legitimate-stage scene and you get an image of a patient who’s not terminal but very definitely on life support. “Theater itself is difficult to produce, because there’s a lot of moving parts,” explains Ann-Marie Pereth, artistic director of A Public Fit. “That in itself is a difficult to task to accomplish without being in the middle of inflation and still participating in a pandemic.”

“Before the pandemic, it was struggling, but we were finding a foothold,” says Kate St. Pierre, artistic director of The Lab LV. “Since then, I find that theatre is always here, but the audiences are even more sparse. It’s challenging to get an audience, always has been. Right now, my theater company, we’re not currently producing. I don’t see the numbers.”

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 11
COURTESY A PUBLIC FIT

For some producers, the pandemic catalyzed an existential crisis in the artform itself. Majestic Repertory Theatre artistic director Troy Heard says the problem is global. “Audiences just aren’t coming back,” he says. “But it speaks to something larger. People have decided it’s not worth it. It’s a huge investment for what may have been not a lot of good theater. It’s not just live theater. Look at movie theaters. They’re on the verge of extinction. Let’s face it, 90 percent of the plays these (live) theaters do are either sitcoms or dramas you can see on HBO or stream on Netflix.” He’s pushing back with controversial offerings like Angry F@gs . “They’re hungry for that,” Heard says. “At least that’s on the edge.”

Las Vegas Theatre Company (formerly Cockroach) impresario Darren Weller concurs. “There’s a stasis or an apathy that grew during COVID,” he says. “That’s part of the hurdle. It’s harder for people to decide to leave the comforts of their home, and that may be a bigger problem than any sort of contagious disease.”

The theater community’s ingenuity was tested by COVID-19 and by the necessity of still producing when their spaces were either closed or foreclosed. St. Pierre has ventured into a variety of alternative means of production, including Area 51, a Joe Schoenmann-penned radio trilogy being produced in conjunction with KNPR. She’s also mounting Enchant, a Christmas spectacle for Resorts World Las Vegas. After spending the lockdown year concentrating on streaming small projects, Weller tried one 2021 stage production, Witch , but it was a financial disaster, so he buckled down to grant-writing.

“Troy did an amazing job down at Majestic of finding ways to make work for small audiences, work that happened outside his space, and found a way to keep producing and really was an inspiration to everyone,” Weller says. Super Summer Theatre tiptoed back into production in 2021 with a handful of performances before resuming a full season last summer. Las Vegas Little Theatre tried to coax audiences back via online theater but LVLT President Walter Niejadlik says it didn’t gain traction.

Were the current predicament a stage show, it would be called Rent . It’s an impresario’s bottom line, and the success of the Arts District has seen levies skyrocket, threatening a theatrical diaspora. Already A Public Fit has fallen victim. This season, Pereth’s vagabond troupe performs a

makeshift season divided between the Clark County Public Library, Super Summer Theatre’s studio space on Valley View, and the Cheyenne campus of the College of Southern Nevada. Calling current Arts District rents “astronomical,” Pereth quantifies the problem: “In order to lease a space that was half the size of our usual space, it was $11,000-$12,000 a month, and that’s not affordable for artists.”

Heard’s landlord was, he says, “an angel” and abated his 2020 impost. Weller’s is subsidizing 40 percent of his rental fees, but it’s still a pinch. Weller asks, “What happens to the Arts District when it’s untenable for artists to exist there? … So I guess we’re asking for a bigger slice of the pie and some acknowledgement that we’ve been paying rent in the Arts District for over 10 years now.”

Even outside the Arts District, rent is an issue. Super Summer Theatre Chairperson Christy Miller constantly uses the word “lucky” to describe her venue’s voyage through the pandemic. It required draining literal rainy day money — funds normally used to cover inclement weather at outdoor Spring Mountain Ranch. Venue co-owner Heller Cos. also “have been just super-helpful in helping us find ways to grants and other things that we may not have been aware were out there,” Miller says.

Niejadlik’s landlord gave him a deferral on rent while LVLT was dark.“Unfortunately we have had to increase our ticket prices and have had to discontinue some discounts to offset the lower audiences and higher rent and production costs,” even with a diminished slate of shows, he says.

A sore spot is public funding or — more precisely — the lack of same. A particular bone of contention is $700,000 in stimulus money that was up for grabs during the pandemic. Heard, Pereth and Weller all vied for some of it (with the latter two making it to the second round of consideration), only to see the whole enchilada awarded to the City of Las Vegas. Ironically, the bulk is now being regranted, so theater bosses are girding their loins for another shot at underwriting.

“We have a long history in Nevada of not allocating money to the arts,” St. Pierre says. “Our focus has always been on heads in beds. It really took 2020 and the shutdown of everything for our state, and the people that are running it, to see how many people are employed by experiential design and by entertainment.”

“There was $131 million in (American Rescue Plan Act) funds that the city had,” Weller says. “$700,000 went to arts and culture organizations, $125,000 went to the Neon Museum, and then $600,000 went to an art grants program (through the department of Parks, Recreation & Cultural Affairs), which they will be regranting. But that’s a tiny percentage of the total amount of money. It’s 0.5% that’s devoted to arts and culture. I understand that they have a lot of needs and a lot of demands. But that tells a story about what the city chooses to invest in.”

Pereth also chafes at a paucity of media coverage. “We don’t have an established journal that reviews all the theatrical productions in town to help get the word out about what’s happening in the Downtown or local theater scene,” she says. “Also there’s a lot of noise in this city in terms of sports and entertainment on the Strip, and a lot of funding is put in place to support those ideas and not to support local artists.”

Miller, for one, is an optimist: “You just don’t realize how much (theater is) a part of your soul until you just don’t have it. There’s a huge chunk of your heart that’s missing food.” Weller concurs, adding, “I’m excited about the possibilities, and hope I have the stamina to push through what is probably the next couple of years of being able to build a sustainable future for theater in Vegas.” ✦

12 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
“We don’t have an established journal that reviews all the theatrical productions in town to help get the word out about what’s happening in the downtown or local theater scene.”
— Ann-Marie Pereth

A Tough Kick

A Las Vegas mom and daughter sat down with StoryCorps to talk about how mixed martial arts helped them cope with autism

Billie Sherwood-Bakhshi always knew her daughter, 30-year-old Serena DeJesus, would be a fighter. She recalls how, even in the womb, Serena had a tough kick. However, Billie wouldn’t realize how much of a fighter her daughter would have to be until later, when Serena was diagnosed with autism as a young child. The mother-daughter duo sat down with StoryCorps Mobile Tour facilitator Sarah Padgett in October to reflect on Serena’s autism diagnosis, how it led her to mixed martial arts, and her plans to become the first autistic female UFC fighter. Here’s part of their conversation, edited for length and clarity.

Serena, what was it like to receive an autism diagnosis and how did that happen?

Serena DeJesus: Because I was misdiagnosed, I was put on medicines that didn’t really help me. When you put somebody who is not psychotic on antipsychotic meds, you make them psychotic. And it landed me in a residential treatment facility. So, at this point, I ran through pretty much all the diagnoses and all the different med combos you could shake a stick at. And one therapist is like, “I want to see her off the meds, and I want to observe her for a week.” It was the first time in my life since I was four years old

that I was off of any type of medicine like that. And she observed me, and she gathered my parents, my treatment team, myself and said, “She’s not any of this; she’s autistic.”

Did it take a long time to process that?

SD: It took me some time because I didn’t know what autism was. I was very confused. But the more treatment I got, the more I learned about autism and actually how prevalent it was, despite it being a new diagnosis at the time.

So how did you get into fighting?

SD: My dad would get UFC (on TV), and it was still relatively new at the time. But then I came down one night, and I saw one of the MMA matches on that video. And I’ll never forget, it was Paul Herrera versus Gary Goodridge ... And I’m like, “Oh my God, that’s so cool.” It’s like everything I’ve watched and played was real life ... Fighting really gave me an outlet. It was the first time I felt equal to my peers, while fighting, because I put in the same work, I put in the same time as everybody else ... It’s a great outlet for me because all my discontent, everything I feel from day to day just trying to survive can be let out safely on the mats ... There’s still some mutual respect.”

14 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 CONVERSATION
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Billie, what was it like for you seeing her drawn to MMA?

Billie Sherwood-Bakhshi: The magical part for me was seeing my tiny little daughter and her little blonde pigtails snuggled up to Dad watching these fights. And among some of the fights was Marvin Eastman ... He’s a UFC pioneer. And she got so excited in her little girl way. And fast forward all these years later, he’s her head coach. So, from Philadelphia to Las Vegas, from being a little girl in pigtails, watching him on a VHS tape to training with him in real life — you want to talk about a miracle!

When did you know that Serena was meant to be a fighter?

BS: Once she finally started standing up to bullies. I always had a lot of fights myself with the school district with her teachers and the principal, because it seemed like she was always getting picked on, always getting bullied, and that often spilled into physical stuff. And they always tell you nonphysical is the way to handle conflict — only she kept getting physically bullied. And one day I was just like, “You know what, Serena? They put their hands on you. Go for it.” And she did. And that solved the bullying problem.

I’m wondering if this experience has changed your relationship to one another at all?

BS: We’ve always been close. Serena is only 18 years younger than me. It’s almost like we grew up together. And it’s definitely gone from me being mom teaching to being mom cheerleader, because her training wheels are off … And at times, it’s hard because there’s nothing as nerve-racking as watching your kid get into a cage with somebody who wants to kill her. But it’s not my life; it’s her life. And this is her passion, and this is where she wants to be.

What are you most proud of?

SD: I’m most proud of being that role model that I always wanted to be for other people. There’s actually now a new slew of autistic fighters coming out, and I’ve had a lot of them reach out to me saying that I inspire them, which is something I never thought I would do in my life is inspire other people … It means a lot to me. ✦

The Common Good

Can a mixed-use development build community? UnCommons is sure gonna try

Matter Real Estate’s UnCommons is the latest in a line of mixed-use developments hoping to infuse a dense urban sensibility into our sprawling suburban city. The new 40-acre project in southwest Las Vegas, designed by architecture firm Gensler, intends to encourage walkability and community. Can it succeed where others have not?

Historically, Las Vegas falls short on the walkability scale, not being very pedestrian-friendly (apart from the Strip). But changing this, according to UNLV journalism professor T.R. Witcher, can happen incrementally.

“Start in underutilized spaces,” he says. “We’re in the desert. There’s so much empty space. Put in a park somewhere, then add a bike lane. An office space. Maybe a shop or a

Walgreens. Little by little, it starts to feel more like a city. Suddenly, you have a community.”

That is the essence of UnCommons. Jim Stuart, Matter Real Estate development partner, says that in its early stages, it was a workplace-centered project. Eventually, it will include 500,000 square feet of office space, as well as 830 residential units, entertainment venues, restaurants, cafes, health and wellness studios, and a multipurpose conference center, all surrounded by the work of local artists and a food hall showcasing local and new eats.

“How do we create an environment that is not a soulless, standalone office building in a black asphalt, sea of heat, and instead create something where you’ll feel like you’re in the best of an urban setting, but in a suburban convenience?” Stuart asks. Matter’s answer: curate the food, entertainment, fitness, architecture, and landscaping — according to a central intention.

Physically, that looks like a courtyard with wooden picnic tables and industrial firepits, a mix of metals and earth — elevated desert. Rather than replicating big cities with established urban cores, Stuart hopes UnCommons can get people to accept Las Vegas for what it is: a gathering place in the Mojave Desert — something previous projects he’s worked on, such as Town Square, did not do. Instead of the focus being shopping, he sought to create a place where life could be at the center: where you could come to work, live, eat, play, and stay for the long term.

As for the intention, that involves validating Las Vegas’ diverse history while welcoming

16 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHY Jeff Scheid BUSINESS

newcomers, something the city’s hospitality culture enables, Witcher notes. Streets are named after local figures such as Helen Toland and Rozita Lee, and UnCommons has a director of community and belonging, Amalie Zinsser, whose job is to cultivate inclusivity.

Although most of UnCommons’ residences aren’t set to open until 2023, what’s there has started generating buzz: Urth Caffe, Blackowned boba shop Teaspoon, and Speakeasy Candle Co., a plant-based, cocktail-inspired candle shop. Several of the contracted businesses are owned by women or people of color. Zinsser acknowledges that uplifting these communities is work that extends beyond UnCommons’ walls.

“It all comes from learning and growing,” she says. “What do they need? How do we help them come to us? We have an open door. We want to know how we could support and help them grow. But it’s not my place, nor the UnCommons’ place to say, ‘This is how we’re going to help.’ That’s just not how you support community at all.”

This view aligns with Teaspoon’s, says local manager Juliana Martinez. Amy Lai cofounded the boba shop in California, and UnCommons hosts the first Las Vegas location. Lai wanted to make boba more accessible by blending it with different cultures, Martinez says. She believes business owners from diverse backgrounds will thrive, because the spaces won’t be filled by corporate chains.

“It’s creating a sense of community because ideally, the same employees who work there are set to get apartment deals first. Then, you can walk to work. Eventually, we’ll get a movie theater and a gym. Now, you can play. Life is here.”

It’s an appealing vision. Could UnCommons serve as inspiration for other Las Vegas developers, making walkability a reality in other neighborhoods with a range of socioeconomic diversity? For that to happen, Witcher says, it would need to connect to other parts of the Valley.

“This can work, but other areas of town must also be included in the picture or get their own piece of the cake,” he says. “The danger is that we want the good side of cities without the reality of the challenges. It cannot just be an enclave for the affluent.”

For Martinez, being a part of UnCommons means being a part of the access that communities she witnessed growing up haven’t always had. At least for Teaspoon, she hopes that it can become a second home for people in the community, a place for them to relax, enjoying life “one teaspoon at a time.”  ✦

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 17 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS
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All the Vegas culture you can eat in one sitting

Welcome to the Club

Where does a world traveler go to forge new friendships in Vegas? A soccer pub, of course

It ’s 11:30 a m on a Monday, and Shenanigans — the flag-draped inner sanctum of McMullan’s Irish Pub on West Tropicana Avenue that serves as the home to the Official Liverpool Supporters Club of Las Vegas — is already buzzing.

“Big game, this,” says Henry, the Dutchman, as I grab my seat next to him at the bar some 30 minutes before what is the biggest rivalry in the English Premier League kicks off: Manchester United vs. Liverpool.

“Don’t worry,” says Ermias, the Eritrean, who’s a couple of beers in already. “We’ll win 5-0 again.”

With the room filled up, some out-oftowners are told to find space in the pub’s main area. Quinn, the Elvis impersonator

SIGN TIMES

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Las Vegas

Location: 5100 Las Vegas

Boulevard South

Year: 1959

Designer: Betty Willis

Builder: Western Neon (now owned by Young Electric Sign Company)

Cost: $4,000

Dimensions: 25 feet high x 15 feet wide

Fun fact: Two replicas were made: one in Downtown (destroyed in 2016) and another on Boulder Highway.

Two cents: “Visitors see the sign with the twinkle in it and know they’ve got a license to enjoy themselves.”

– Former mayor Oscar B. Goodman, The New York Times (2005)

who drives five and a half hours from his Utah home to watch the games at McMullan’s, rips off his clothes to reveal a full match kit (or uniform, in Yankee parlance).

Soon the singing starts, with loving odes to Big Virg and Señor Bobby, followed by “You’ll Never Walk Alone.” The latter is the Liverpool anthem of solidarity and belonging that’s sung before every home game and amplified by the tens of millions of fans the club commands around the world.

I became one of those fans back in the late 1970s, at the start of Liverpool’s glory era. To an impressionable kid growing up in Sweden, where one English match a week was televised, the heroics of players such as Kevin Keegan and Kenny Dalglish were mesmerizing. Later, I moved to the United States for college. By then, Liverpool’s dominance was fading, a development I tracked with dismay through newspaper clippings my dad mailed from Sweden (this was long before the days of the internet, let alone televised games in America).

For the past 25 years, I’ve lived on sev eral continents and traveled the globe as a journalist, yet I’ve rarely missed a Liverpool match. I’ve watched games with herders in Mongolia; nomads in Timbuktu; at home

LIKE MOTHS TO a flame, Las Vegas draws millions of visitors (and their wallets) each year — the city’s iconic, iridescent signs pointing to the way to prodigal fun. The famous neon lights also encapsulate our vibrant history, from the timeless “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas” to the recently installed giant showgirls. Here’s a look at six of them.

Giant Showgirls

Location: 1810 Las Vegas Boulevard South

Year: 2022

Builder: YESCO

Dimensions:

50 feet high x 15 feet wide

Weight: 6,800 pounds

Fun fact: The original showgirls (2018) were 25 feet tall and will be moved to the Arts District.

Two cents: “These gorgeous signs will continue to elevate Las Vegas’ image as a world-class travel destination beloved by people around the globe.”

– Mayor Carolyn Goodman, Review-Journal

Vegas Vic

Location: 25 East Fremont Street

Year: 1951

Designer: Pat Denner

Builder: YESCO

Dimensions: 40 feet high x 20 feet wide

Fun fact: The original sign had its arm waving and would play an audio recording saying, “Howdy Podner!”

Two cents: “The story goes that the cast and crew stayed at a hotel in Vegas, and one night Woody and Lee Marvin got stinking drunk and shot arrows out of their window at ‘Vegas Vic,’ the big neon cowboy sign.” –@OldCarLongRoad, Twitter

with my sons; and with fellow strangers in countless bars around the world.

So when I moved to Las Vegas last fall, after spending the previous nine years back in Sweden, the first thing on my to-do list was to find a place where I could watch Liverpool play. By the time I moved into my house, I had already attended several games at McMullan’s.

Seeing the same faces at every match — rather than just random people wearing Liverpool red — has satisfied a need I didn’t know I had. It also helped ground me in this most fluid of cities.

Through these gatherings at McMullan’s, I’ve been dispelled of a notion I may have had of Las Vegas as a place lacking in genuineness. Trust me when I tell you, the passion here is real and the commitment serious; no one is fidgeting with their phone during the game (unless it’s to check other Premier League scores). Rather, everyone is focused on the action — and everyone is here on equal terms.

18 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
ESSAY
A brief history of Las Vegas’ municipal signage, 1951-today
SOCCER
CLUB: COURTESY STEFAN LOVGREN

that weekend is filled with worry-free bliss. The problem, of course, is that a loss can wreck that same weekend — or, if the game is played on a Monday, as in the case of this Manchester United clash, an entire week.

And that’s what happens. Right from the kickoff, United are all over us, and a hush settles in the room as they open the scoring a mere 15 minutes into it. The second half starts with Liverpool regaining command, but then United scores again.

As the ball slams into the back of the net, Steve, one of the regulars sitting in front of me, buries his face in his hands. Steve grew up outside of Manchester but became a Liverpool supporter after his dad won tickets and took his 12-year-old son to a match at Liverpool’s Anfield Stadium. To Steve — and, really, all of us in the pub — there’s nothing worse than losing to this wretched lot.

But lose we do, by a final score of 2-1 after a late consolation goal by Mohamed Salah, aka. “the Egyptian King.” Slowly the faithful

trickle out into the Vegas summer heat, knowing the remainder of the workweek is ruined. Saturday morning, and a chance to redeem ourselves, can’t come soon enough.

When it does, my friend Joe, who’s never watched Liverpool before, joins me in Shenanigans for breakfast. Once again the room is packed, even though we’re heavily favored to beat newly promoted Bournemouth. And we do, soundly. At halftime, we’re up 5-0; by the final whistle, order is fully restored with a 9-0 victory, tying the largest victory margin in Premier League history.

It also turns out to be a big day for the Nevada Partnership for Homeless Youth, as it’s our ritual to donate $1 per participating spectator to the organization every time Liverpool scores a goal. Today’s final tally: $283, adding to the more than $10,000 collected in total since the program started about two years ago.

I tell Joe it’s not always gonna be like this, but I’m not sure he believes me. As I say goodbye and head out into what feels like a much more manageable Vegas heat, I see him staying back to sign up for the mailing list. ✦

Vegas Vickie

Location: Glitter Gulch Casino

(old); inside Circa Casino (new)

Year: 1980

Designer: Charles F. Barnard

Builder: YESCO

Dimensions:

26 feet high x 20 feet wide

Fun fact: The sign was originally named “Sassy Sally.” In 1994, she was “married” to Vegas Vic and renamed Vegas Vickie. She currently sits at Circa Resorts’ Vegas Vickie Cocktail Lounge

Gateway Arches

Location: 1998 Las Vegas Boulevard South

Year: 2020

Designer: Selbert Perkins Design

Builder: YESCO

Cost: $6.5 million

Dimensions:

80 feet high x 140 feet wide

Fun fact: The sign was created after the old Welcome to Fabulous Downtown Las Vegas sign was hit by a truck in 2016

Two cents: “I am sure these iconic arches will become synonymous with the fun and excitement of our city.” – Ward 3

Councilwoman Olivia Diaz

Paintbrush

Gateway

Location: Fourth Street and Charleston Boulevard; Casino Center and Charleston

Boulevard

Year: 2010

Artist: Dennis Oppenheim

Dimensions:

45 feet high x 5 feet wide

Fun fact: The paintbrushes were supposed to be built across from each other, but ended up a few blocks away from each other.

Two cents: “The New Yorkbased Oppenheim was a controversial choice and the arts community has been critical of his concept. But if the project fails, this will be because it is a monument to misplaced priorities. Will an ‘arts district’ even exist in a few years?” – Kirsten Swenson, Desert Companion (Sept. 2010)

*Sources: The Neon Museum, YESCO

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 19

David Blaine knows how to turn waiting around into mounting excitement.

In the Resorts World Theatre before his show In Spades begins, the crowd is buzzing. In the cup holder of each seat is a white envelope with his insignia on it — a lower case d and b next to each other forming an upside-down spade — above the words “DO NOT OPEN.” Speculation is rife as to what could be inside. Audience members around me hold the envelope up to the light, weigh it in their hands, shake it next to their ears. The prevailing theory is that it’s a pack of cards, but then others point out that this could be misdirection. To what end, nobody knows.

A large cohort of men sits down in the row behind me. “Yo, everybody loves David Blaine,” one of them says to his friends, apropos of nothing. “We got two Black guys, two white guys, a Mexican guy and a … Englishman.” A woman sitting in front of me, who tells me she’s from Utah, has a Harry Potter tattoo on her forearm. A man with a “Blue Lives Matter” flag on his hat shuffles past me to find his seat. A few rows away, a man and his two children wear matching hoodies from a Colorado union local. The

ENTERTAINMENT

Just the Hits

The true magic of In Spades is David Blaine’s talent for manipulating audience anticipation

guy to my right, who tells me he’s from New Jersey, tips a bottle of pills into his mouth like he’s taking a sip of tea.

When the lights dim, cheers erupt, and someone tries to get a “David” chant going, to limited success. Everybody loves David Blaine. Indeed, he has performed for everyone from Kanye West to Harrison Ford, Barack Obama to George Bush.

Blaine begins the show with a short monologue about how, when he first saw the Resorts World Theatre, he fell in love with it at first sight because he knew he could perform all the magic he loved in it. To prove this, his first act is to climb a hundred-foot tall scaffolding tower, below which is a huge rectangle of neatly stacked cardboard boxes. On the way up, he pauses

to indemnify the crew and audience in the event of his death, and then reaches a tiny platform about six stories up.

“Almost twenty years ago,” he says, “I did a stunt called ‘Vertigo,’ where I stood on a pillar over New York City. “One of the most amazing parts of the stunt was the view of New York City. But the most amazing part was the connection that I had with everyone that came to visit me.”

His patter comes across a little wooden, but he’s standing on a tiny platform high above a pile of boxes, so we’re on the edges of our seats. He then turns and takes a few steps down the scaffolding. Someone screams, “No!” But it’s a fakeout, and he starts climbing even higher. The crowd loses it. “Let’s go!” someone shouts multiple

20 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 ART STREIBER

times. He reaches another, higher, platform.

“From eight stories, these boxes basically look like a deck of cards,” he says, and takes a pack of cards from his pocket, holding them up against the boxes below.

“I probably shouldn’t have these here right now,” he says, spraying out the cards, which sashay into the abyss below. It’s again a little hammy to suggest he accidentally left a pack of cards in his pocket, but it’s still spectacular. The time the cards take to fall shows just how far up he is and proves that there are no ropes or nets between him and the ground.

“I would say this is a good time to stand up and probably take your cellphones out, and you might wanna record it in slow motion, ’cause this first thing will take about one second.”

We all take out our phones, he starts a ten-second countdown, and then he steps out into space.

THIS JUMP IS exactly how he ended his 2002 “Vertigo” performance. As the show progresses, I recognize almost everything else he does from prior performances, too. When he said he could perform all the magic he really loved in the Resorts World Theatre, he meant it — he’s playing the hits.

For the devout fan, this might leave something to be desired. In the intermission, the woman to my left tells me she got her and her boyfriend these tickets for his birthday because he loves Blaine. When I ask the boyfriend what he thinks, he tells me somewhat sheepishly, not wanting to appear ungrateful for the gift, that he’s kind of already seen a lot of this stuff on Blaine’s YouTube Channel.

Common wisdom states magicians should never perform a trick twice lest they give away the secret, but this isn’t strictly true. Magicians will repeat a trick, but change how it’s done each time. As Stephen L. Macknik and Susana Martinez-Conde said in their book Sleights of Mind, this technique reduces “all of the possible explanations of an effect down to none, until only impossible (magical) explanations remain.”

Blaine is often doing the opposite. By repeating feats across multiple performances, he’s effectively reducing all the possible explanations down to one: He really does them. He really does jump into a pile of boxes from eight stories up. Or (spoiler), he really can store a frog in his stomach and regurgitate it at will.

Indeed, a fair amount of In Spades isn’t really magic. In a single effect, he combines card tricks and other classical magic illusions with the techniques of the circus performer — regurgitation, body mutila-

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tion, chewing up glass. These may have gone largely forgotten by the broader public and thus appear improbable, but they’re certainly within the realm of human possibility.

By merging these stunts with illusions, though, he’s doing something interesting with magic. Usually, magicians try to convince you, as Macknik and Martinez-Conde put it, that the only explanation is the impossible. By including real stunts, for which the only explanation is the possible, Blaine suggests that the illusions, too, might be possible, and not tricks. If he can hold his breath for 17 minutes, he might really be able to pull your card out of his mouth after you sew it shut. Blaine wants to shift the boundary of magic to something real, to something about the possibilities of the human will.

This philosophical innovation might not be landing with the crowd, though.

“I mean it’s impressive and shit, but it’s not, like, magic,” one of the guys behind me says to another during one act, sounding deflated.

AFTER THE INTERMISSION, the curtains draw back to reveal a giant fishbowl in which Blaine will hold his breath. As Blaine gulps lungfuls of pure oxygen from a tank, a video explains how difficult this stunt is, how Houdini’s record was three and a half minutes, and that Blaine beat that as a child.

There are many interesting points of contact between Houdini and Blaine, and not just the ones that Blaine wants to point out. Magicians have told me that Blaine, like Houdini, is perhaps more of a world-class publicist than a world-class magician — neither has (or had) particularly exceptional illusions.

Both men built careers more on holding attention for unusually long spans than on mastering complicated sleights of hand. Both know (or knew) how to garner headlines year after year, and both can (or could) keep an audience’s attention for hours while remaining essentially motionless. Blaine has been buried alive for a week, encased in a block of ice for 63 hours, and sealed in a plexiglass box with no food for 44 days.

And Houdini often spent more than 45 minutes behind a curtain freeing himself from shackles, handcuffs, and boxes, with little to entertain the crowd but raw suspense and a pit orchestra. As

movies grew in popularity, signaling the death knell of vaudeville, he had to work harder and harder to keep things exciting.

One technique Houdini developed for his milk-can escape, in which he was locked inside a large water-filled milk can and had to free himself behind a curtain, was to encourage the audience to hold their breaths as soon as he submerged himself. Blaine does this here, too, asking us all to keep our hands raised for as long as we could hold our breath. One by one we gasp and lower our hands. By this time another video starts playing.

I’m in no doubt that he can hold his breath for a very long time; previously he’s done it for more than 17 minutes, briefly holding the world record. Like the jump into the pile of boxes, this act, too, is a reference to his earlier work. More impressive to me is how he makes floating serenely in a fish bowl seem so exciting. Videos play, people come on stage, they drop an alligator in there with him. He holds his breath for a very, very long time.

AT THE END, he asks us to open the envelopes, and leads us through a set of steps involving the contents. Suddenly we all realize the same magic trick has happened to us, in our own hands, and the crowd loses it one last time.

“These THC pills are kicking in, man, I don’t know what’s going on,” says the guy from New Jersey next to me, clutching his head, his expression equal parts amazement and genuine fear. The finale, it seems, was worth the wait. ✦

Las Vegas is a huge entertainment town, right? Not always. For years, its focus was gambling — not shows. That changed shortly after Pat Christenson arrived from Wisconsin in 1980. A UNLV events coordinator job led to filling the then-new Thomas & Mack Center’s calendar, which needed more than just the Runnin’ Rebels to succeed. Superstar concerts, NBA games, and National Finals Rodeo followed, as did the city’s first stadium shows at Sam Boyd. And during his time as Las Vegas Events president, Christenson shepherded Las Vegas to becoming the nation’s live entertainment and sports capital. As he winds his way down to retirement, we look at five milestones that summarize his legacy.

OPENING THE THOMAS & MACK:

Unveiled in 1983, the 18,500-seat T&M wasn’t designed just for sports, but also for long-underserved music fans. The venue opened its doors to whoever wanted a crack at the city’s 500,000 residents and 12 million-plus visitors. Christenson made it easy for promoters to bring big names here, and many finally did. “In our first three or four years, we did 24 concerts a year,” Christenson told KNPR’s State of Nevada. And yet, there was still work to do. “We weren’t getting the Billy Joels, the McCartneys, the Neil Diamonds … the city had a reputation as a graveyard for stars.”

BRINGING SPORTING EVENTS TO TOWN: For the T&M — and Sam Boyd Stadium — to be profitable, Christenson needed to fill seats. T&M’s goal upon opening: 100 events per year and one million guests. So, it beckoned every kind of large-audience event, including sports, which at the time was often limited to boxing matches at Caesars Palace. Regional college basketball tournaments, volleyball, tennis, and the NBA all found a new home in the desert. “That first year was off the charts,” Christenson says. “Sporting (events) really weren’t difficult to secure.”

Landing National Finals Rodeo: Christenson himself didn’t lure the 10-day event from Oklahoma to Las Vegas in 1985. But as a mentor to former UNLV Arena Director Dennis

22 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 COURTESY LAS VEGAS CONVENTION & VISITORS AUTHORITY
If he can hold his breath for 17 minutes, he might really be able to pull your card out of his mouth after you sew it shut.

Major League

On Pat Christenson’s retirement, we look back at five of the legendary local event promoter’s defining moments

Finfrock, his suggestion to forgo merchandise percentages helped influence the final vote. Once at Las Vegas Events, Christenson helped the resort corridor and NFR develop other programming — country-music concerts, rodeo broadcast parties — that turned the event into a revenue machine. With NFR, he played the long game. “We didn’t sell out till the third year,” he says, “but from there (on), those 10 days were so critical to the financial success of Thomas & Mack.”

BOOKING THE GRATEFUL DEAD AT SAM BOYD:

In the late 1980s, at the height of their popularity, the Dead saw paltry numbers at the Aladdin and outright disinterest from the Los Angeles concert market. Enter Christenson, who saw an opening for concerts at Sam Boyd Stadium. With help from legendary promoter Bill Graham, Metro, and Clark County Commissioners, the April 1991 shows sold out, starting a five-year run of weekenders until bandleader Jerry Garcia died. Christenson’s smartest move, though, was to commission a

photo of that full stadium in 1991. “It was a great aerial shot that went around to agents. I think the first to bite was U2, then McCartney, and then the Eagles. And we were off to the races … The hotels woke up to the value of live music.”

REHOMING ELECTRIC DAISY CARNIVAL:

Before 2011, Las Vegas’ musical festival scene was struggling, because of costs and competition. But that changed after L.A.’s disastrous 2010 EDC. Again, Las Vegas’ gatekeepers and Christenson huddled and strategized. The result: In 2011, the rave debuted at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway and drew 230,000 attendees. Since then, the yearly event’s economic impact has been in the billions. “It parallels real close with the Dead — and it’s one of the reasons people don’t give Metro and (Las Vegas) enough credit,” Christenson says. “I gotta give a lot of credit to Pasquale (Rotella, EDC promoter) for that, though, because not only did he move it, but he took a whole new level.” ✦

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 23
CHARACTER SKETCH
24 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022

This fall, you did a second multiweek run at Harvest in the Bellagio. Your other restaurants are steak and seafood. Why Italian for the

Bryan and I grew up around Italian cuisine, I mean our name is Voltaggio. We went in a different direction professionally up until now, but the discipline of cooking is the same. We’re always looking to nuance things that have some lineage. We’ve got rigatoni and arancino, we’ve got crudo — all of these words that mean classic dishes. But what Bryan and I have done over the years is create new versions of something that’s been done before.

Why Vegas?

MV: Las Vegas is one of the most exciting food towns in the whole country right now, because everything is behind the restaurant. I feel like it’s one of those cities where the restaurants can still do anything — the economics are there, the people are there, the support, the need, the desire are all there. There’s always something happening here, and the only reason something doesn’t happen in Vegas is, somebody didn’t think of it yet.

Bryan: While we’ve been here, we’ve been dining in other restaurants. It’s been a great experience not only to cook here, but also to sit down on the other side and experience it as a guest. It’s a great culinary town. We love being here.

So, would you want to have a permanent restaurant here in Las Vegas?

MV: Yeah, that’s certainly been a goal for us — I don’t know that we thought it was an attainable goal when we started our careers … Alain Ducasse, Charlie Palmer, Daniel Boulud, Hubert Keller — the chefs who came to this city and brought their concepts with them, we never thought that could be us. And now that we’re here doing it, it’s pretty surreal.

BV: I think that, at this point, because we’ve got to know the city and the hospitality and the incredible support we’ve gotten as we’ve done this pop-up, there’s nothing more we’d want than a space here in Las Vegas.

To read the entire interview, visit desertcompanion.com.

A donation of $60 or more to Vegas PBS grants access to the Vegas PBS Passport member benefit. Watch thousands of hours of your favorite programs, like MASTERPIECE, Antiques Roadshow, the Ken Burns Collection and more through the PBS Video App. Give the gift of membership to yourself and loved ones this holiday season.

vegaspbs.org/donate

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 25 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS
COURTESY MGM RESORTS INTERNATIONAL
Give the gift they’ll be thankful for all year.

BOOKS

Never Leave

Juan Martinez on Las Vegas as inspiration for his new novel literalizing the horror of capitalism, trauma, and xenophobia

Yes, Juan Martinez’s Extended Stay is a horror novel — frightening, uncanny things occur. But not for a single page is it only a horror novel. By centering it on the character Alvaro and his sister, Carmen, undocumented refugees from horrific political violence in Colombia, Martinez artfully packs his story with higher orders of meaning: about the imperiled lives of those invisible to us; the unyielding weight of trauma — the opening scene in which soulless rebels slaughter Alvaro’s family is as horror-filled as any occult goings-on; and the almost supernatural powers of capitalism. And then he sets Extended Stay in Downtown Las Vegas, at a decrepit hotel-casino called the Alicia, where Alvaro fumbles through a

kitchen job and learns that this Vegas joint, as the title suggests, is not exactly what it seems. Now an associate professor at Northwestern University, Martinez spent six years here as an instructor at UNLV and contributor to local publications. (Disclosure: As editor of Las Vegas CityLife, I edited the walking story he mentions below.) His previous book is the story collection Best Worst American.

Was there, as they say, an “inciting incident” or idea that put you on the path to this novel?

There were two! When I was living in Las Vegas, as a way of picking up extra money, I spent a summer interviewing and talking with people who worked kitchens, mostly just those who did back of house. The researcher who hired me wanted someone who spoke Spanish … It was an amazing experience, and I was impressed with the array of skills and pride that people took in their labor, and in the fundamental opportunities and contradictions of the work. It was like, super democratic and also very much not at all. And also: like this huge opportunity and also this occupation that consumed so much of your psyche.

The other inciting incident was a writing assignment for a wonderful but now defunct free weekly: The whole deal was me walking the length of the city, from one edge to another, and to see what it felt like to walk an environment that wasn’t really all that friendly to walking.

Extended Stay is about so much: terror, undocumented life, capitalism, memory, the supernatural. How hard was it to balance all those concepts while still telling a story?

It was both … hard because the novel insisted on covering all that ground, but easy because (of) the balance-out of the form and the genre — because horror, or at least the brand of horror I’m drawn to, asks for or insists on certain tropes, certain moves, and if you are willing to let the form do what it wants, you can try and stuff it with as much as you can, and you can smuggle in all your felt experience when it comes to trauma and disposability and labor.

There are seedy hotels everywhere; what made Las Vegas the ideal setting for the Alicia?

A couple of things, but maybe the most immediate and primal is that it was the setting I lived with (and lived in) for six-plus years, and then couldn’t shake after I left. I wrote the novel to sort out what I loved about Las Vegas and what troubled me about loving Las Vegas. I’ve grown suspicious of people who want to make big, broad claims about the city, like it’s this metaphor for America or Our Current Situation or whatever. I mean, sure it is, but what isn’t? I wanted to really capture a dark corner of a city I knew well, and one that people skip over, which is both a great place to find work and also where work can consume you.

But there are also the block-by-block quirks of Fremont, where you could have these incredibly nice casino-hotels that have been doing fine for years, and you cross the street and you are (or at least were; I know things have changed) in an unlit block with buildings that were either abandoned or about to be abandoned. Those blocks were their own universe, always on the verge of either getting turned to rubble or refurbished and made anew. It was how proximate everything was to everything else … how one hotel was fine and the next was not, and how they existed a two-minute walk from each other. ✦

Extended Stay

320 pages, $19.95

University of Arizona Press

26 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
COURTESY JUAN MARTINEZ / UNIVERSITY OF ARIZONA PRESS

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FOOD+DRINK

EATS EATS

Chefs and owners at these neighborhood gems make everyday dining in Las Vegas easy to love

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 29
PHOTOGRAPHY Brent Holmes

Family Business

Ancestral recipes, cultural traditions, and teamwork give these restaurants an inimitable warmth

LAS CAZUELAS Searching in vain for the flavors of home (Puebla, Mexico) led husband and wife Manuel Avendano and Anna Tobon to found Las Cazuelas. “When we arrived in America, we tried to find the food with all our memories,” Tobon says. “It was hard because most (Mexican) restaurants do the Tex-Mex way.” Avendano worked at Ventano Italian Grill & Seafood to hone his culinary skills while Tobon developed the recipes for their own venture. “It’s a good combination,” Avenando says. (9711 S. Eastern Ave., Silverado Ranch, 702-837-0204)

SERRANO’S Chef Jose Manuel Serrano’s cooking history dates to age 13, when his mother told him to make the salsa for a meal because he was good at it. That talent evolved into a culinary career that began with preparing international dishes at Stoney Point in Pasadena, California, in the ’70s. Eighteen years ago, Serrano brought the tradition full circle, opening his family restaurant, where his mother’s influence is still in the food. “But my wife does the best table service,” he says, “and my son gets everybody here.” (136 S. Rainbow Blvd., Las Vegas, 702-243-4552)

PROFILES

PLACES

Spring of Savor

What’s new in Chinatown, the beating heart of Las Vegas’ food scene?

Between savory spoonfuls of Szechuan noodles, Joe Muscaglione tells me about the upcoming arrival of Hui Lau Shan, a mango dessert chain from Hong Kong and the 15th new dessert shop to open in Chinatown in the last six months. We marvel at the number. How did the Chinatown that started as a few complexes on Spring Mountain Road turn into this juggernaut?

It happened through a combination of more educated eaters, a population boom,

Alejandro Ortega made the culinary journey from young immigrant working at Wendy’s to back-of-house cook on the Strip. Eventually, catering brought his family into the business: Wife, Angelica, ran operations; mother and sister helped in the kitchen; son, Alexis (then 10), even worked the grill. Now 19, Alexis manages the family’s brick-and-mortar eatery, which opened in a refurbished Taco Bell in 2019. “It’s not just Mexican culture,” Alejandro Ortega says. “The food — it’s part of the family, so we make everything fresh. We make our own recipes.” (4425 Sunset Road, Henderson, 702-780-8100)

MAS TAKOS

and the Strip, says Muscaglione, co-creator of Chinatownvegas.com and co-owner, with chef Jimmy Li, of Shanghai Taste in Shanghai Plaza. “You have access (by occupants) of 148,000 hotel rooms, and every three days

they switch with different people,” he says. “There’s no Chinatown like this.”

Today, Chinatown extends north and south beyond Spring Mountain, creating a destination for culinary discovery. Menus go

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 31

well beyond Asian, and the food has become so localized that diners can find provincial specialties and cooking styles that would have been unheard of a decade ago. For the adventurous, it’s an enticing invitation, but for newcomers, it can be daunting. Here are four sure bets that are hot now.

An example of the cultural niches on offer in Chinatown be found at Shanghai Taste (4266 Spring Mountain Road #104A, 702-570-6363). Li, formerly of Niu Gu Restaurant, comes from a heralded family of cooks who claim credit for introducing sheng jian bao, pan-fried soup dumplings, to America in Southern California Chinese restaurants during the 1990s. At Shanghai Taste, Li applies his dumpling skills to both sheng jian bao, and an assortment of xiao

long bao, arguably the city’s best steamed soup dumplings — a status suggested by the restaurant’s majority Shanghainese clientele.

But Muscaglione and I aren’t enjoying noodles at his place. Instead, we’re at Noodlehead, (3419 S. Jones Blvd., Noodleheadvegas.com), an eclectic shop owned by husband and wife Ben Yang and Rebecca Goh that celebrated its oneyear anniversary November 8. They focus on dishes from both their backgrounds: He’s Szechuan; she’s from Malaysia. The combination creates a unique flavor experience. For instance, the Malaysian-influenced crispy tofu satay in peanut sauce is a good lead-in to the Szechuan specialty, Yibin ran mian, also known as burning noodles, full of ground pork and chili oil. Or start with the Malaysian Mee Rebus, a thick vegetarian soup with gravy, and finish with Szechuan pickled vegetable and fish noodle soup, a hot-and-sour sensation.

If you’re looking for a deeper dive, check out Yen Viet Kitchen (3575 S. Decatur Blvd., 702-293-4949), which opened in the summer of 2021. Owner Yen Nguyen cooks every dish herself. “When we came here, we missed the food that we made back home,” Yen’s daughter, Hao Nguyen, says. “Our fam-

ily comes from the North, but we moved to the South and our grandparents lived on the west side of Vietnam. So, we enjoy the dishes from all over Vietnam.”

That means plates like bánh khot, mini crispy turmeric pancakes topped with shrimp and veggies, and bun bo xao, a bowl of stir-fried beef noodles in house fish sauce. Chef Khai Vu, the restaurateur of famed Las Vegas Vietnamese outlet District One Kitchen & Bar, says his favorite dish at Yen’s is Vietnamese staple bánh cuon. “Rice batter is poured onto a stretched piece of cloth over boiling water,” he explains. “Once steamed, the vessels are filled with minced pork, wood ear mushrooms and served with fresh herbs, golden fried shallots, and fish sauce.” Vu says he loves Nguyen’s authentic — and just plain good — approach. For something authentically Okinawan, head back to Shanghai Plaza. A few doors down from Shanghai Taste, there’s O.Onigiri (4258 Spring Mountain Road #102, oonigiri.com), which also opened in summer 2021. Owner Diana Lee brings Okinawan comfort food to the masses in the form of onigiri, rice balls (rectangles, in this instance), wrapped in nori (seaweed). A large

32 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
A FEW STEPS AHEAD (clockwise from right) Dumplings at Shanghai Taste; bún bò xào at Yen Viet Kitchen; unagi onigiri at O.Onigiri; Yibin burning noodle at Noodlehead

American military presence in the Okinawa prefecture has given rise to flavors that please both Eastern and Western palates. Most contain spam, egg, and furikake seasoning along with pickled vegetables. From there, diners choose a spotlight item such as unagi (freshwater eel), soft-shell crab, or tonkatsu (fried, breaded pork).

“That sandwich is the perfect street food,” Muscaglione says. “You can have it in your hand while you’re running full speed down the block, and not one grain of rice falls off that thing. It’s perfectly composed.” He adds that O.Onigiri’s small, streamlined profile previews the future of Chinatown dining.

Whatever the future is, Chinatown seems like it’s always a few steps ahead of the rest of the city. Or maybe it’s there already. Either way, it’s another excuse to go on a culinary adventure on Spring Mountain … and beyond.

CHEFS

Come back soon!

Recently closed eateries whose reopening we’re rooting for

There are some dishes you remember long after they’re gone — the bacon toffee pudding at Harvest or the cauliflower shawarma at POTs. These two outstanding local eateries, along with Flock & Fowl and Johnny C’s Diner, are among those that have recently closed. But their chef-owners are still in town, so we’re pulling for a comeback! Here’s what we know …

The Snack Wagon Takeovers at Harvest by ROY ELLAMAR were heavyweight foodie events drawing guest chefs such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Hubert Keller cooking alongside Ellamar. Guests were invited to plan their menus, and Ellamar worked in concert, plate for plate, with his visiting masters. He recently announced he’ll be opening a new restaurant in Downtown Summerlin next year. No word yet if the Snack Wagon Takeover will be there too.

Johnny C’s Diner was a Guy Fieri fantasy, hidden next to an RV resort and housed in a ’50s-style diner. JOHNNY CHURCH used his high-end French techniques to elevate breakfast classics such as steak and eggs and omelets. Church says he plans to reestablish Johnny C’s in a new location, as well as opening a commissary kitchen.

Whether it was steamed buns inside a nail salon (Great Bao), chicken and rice in a strip mall (Flock & Fowl and Every Grain), or Asian-American fare in an off-Strip casino (Fat Choy), SHERIDAN SU’S soul shined through every dish. Maybe there’s a space inside a garage somewhere he can transform next?

In a town of unique dining, POTs managed to distinguish itself — by serving vegan Egyptian food in a westside shop that owner IMAN HAGGAG made feel like her living room. Haggag now sells the spices that made her plates so memorable.

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 33
ELLAMAR CHURCH SU HAGGAG

WEISS DELI Weiss is that most beautiful of things — a proper Jewish deli, its own ecosystem of gastronomic delights. The cozy spot fills with the aroma of brisket, serves up matzo balls the size of a child’s fist, and sells the most delicate little cookies you’ve tasted. Weiss makes small miracles every day, and for that I am grateful.

BIG MAMAS WINGS & THINGS Frying is an overlooked art form. Too often, in America’s culinary scene, fried dishes are a monoculture; overexposure leads to monotony, then apathy. Big Mamas Wings & Things is the remedy. To find out what I mean, try the crab fries, the seafood counterpart to carne asada fries. They’ll change your mind about fried food.

Cornucopian Crossroads

Don’t worry if your favorite joint at one of these intersections is closed. There’s another sweet spot right across the way

CARLITO’S BURRITOS If we lived in a gentler, more generous world, we would all wake up with a breakfast burrito from Carlito’s on our nightstand each morning. The thin crispy potato slices, fluffy scrambled eggs, and meat of your choice (I’ll take ham) could lead to world peace. Generating the most comprehensive menu and authentic flavor of the city’s New Mexican restaurants, Carlito’s Burritos is the place to get your Hatch on.

AROMA LATIN AMERICAN COCINA Chef Steve Kestler has pulled the complexities of multiple Latin American cuisines into a cohesive theme for this genuinely exceptional little eatery. He takes wellknown dishes in new directions with unusual treatments (such as battered and fried avocado tacos on a bed of red cabbage), or by infusing it with international influences (enchiladas with a Korean flare).

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GREEN VALLEY & SUNSET HENDERSON STREET FOODIE

STREET EATS

BAJAMAR The Marlin taco alone justifies the existence of Bajamar. If you’ve never had one, a Marlin taco is smoked tuna and mozzarella cheese with pico de gallo and, in Bajamar’s case, an ample helping of chipotle aioli. The combo is an oceanic journey through fire for the mouth. The kitchen’s original take on chicharrones, typically fried pig skin, is also noteworthy for featuring fish, or squid, battered and fried with the crunchy mouthfeel of chicharron, but a taste of the sea.

VIVA LAS AREPAS Although Vickie’s diner — now located in Commercial Center — then stood as the OG of this intersection, chef Felix Arellano’s homage to Venezuelan food birthed the renaissance that began here a decade ago. Viva Las Arepas started as a tiny food stand in the parking lot of Dino’s Lounge, where Arellano served authentic food from his home country through a sliding glass widow. Today, besides the namesake cornmeal cakes stuffed with all manner of goodness, the place serves a menu as expansive as its dining room.

LUV-IT FROZEN CUSTARD Before there was a Las Vegas, it seems, Luv-It was here … waiting for the moment when humanity would be ready frozen custard (not ice cream). The tiny, distinctive shack has been seducing downtown Las Vegas with its rotating flavors

— from cherry pie to gingerbread cookie, on a recent day — since 1973. And the masterpiece Western sundae, with hot fudge, caramel, and candied pecans on whatever flavor custard you like, remains (according to Luv-It’s website) the top seller year after year.

CARNITAS Y TORTAS AHOGADAS

GUADALAJARA Holy cow — or pig, or goat — there are two of these? The original Carnitas y Tortas Ahogadas

Guadalajara is an East Las Vegas fixture, and the downtown location is a welcome newcomer to the corner. The signature here is torta ahogada, described simply as a roll packed to the gills with meat and soaked in a scorching chili sauce that will have your gums humming for hours.

STREET EATS

TROPICANA & EASTERN PARADISE

HABANOS CAFE It’s beautiful, what an oven and a bit of creativity can do. Ovens can roast pork, puff up pastries, churn out pizzas, and bake bread. The oven at Habanos cafe does all of this (and more) with a Cuban comfort-food sensibility.

FUKUMIMI RAMEN This little ramen spot provides a counter note to the neighborhood’s prevailing Latin American theme. Fukumimi is down-home ramen: rich, fat chashu; noodles both wide and thin; strong, savory broths; and Japanese classics such as karaage — little balls of fried chicken spiced just right. Nuanced flavors and an easy atmosphere make this spot stand out in a crowded culinary corner.

THE DISPENSARY LOUNGE Food aside, this jazz lounge serves up something that you can’t find on many menus these days: classic Vegas! The lush carpeting, water wheel, and overall decor throw back to a bygone era (circa 1970). You may give it a try for the inexpensive libations and free jazz every Wednesday night, but you’ll go back for the food.

JAMAICAN VYBZ BAR & GRILL Travel about half a block east of the intersection, and you’ll find a little plate of paradise. If I were to eat one thing at this funky spot, it would be the Oxtail, an intensely rich meat steeped in a complex brown gravy with an addictive sort of quality: one bite flows into the next until you’re looking around for your next plate. ✦

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 35
OAKEY & LAS VEGAS BLVD. DOWNTOWN DOWN ON THE CORNER Fried avocado taco, churrasco, KoMex enchilada, kimchi rice at Aroma Latin American Cocina (left); Cubano sandwich at Habanos Cafe (above right); grilled chicken and arepa variety at Viva Las Arepas (below)

“Why do you like it here?” he asks me. He is any number of people: a stranger on a barstool, a friend’s boyfriend, an acquaintance I’ve been asked to show around. He is visiting Las Vegas, and he is asking the question visitors ask locals. He is asking for a thesis, and maybe, depending on how the night goes, a fight. “I could never live in Vegas,” this person always says.

Ever the tour guide, I tell him about wild burros at Red Rock Canyon, old casino marquees at the Neon Museum, immersive theater in the Arts District, hand-pulled noodles in Chinatown. Warm evenings on the Strip, that collective start-of-the-night energy from so many people determined to have the best night of their lives. Where else can you feel that?

I defend Las Vegas because doing so makes you a local. Other cities have impossible buyins for this: You have to live there for a decade. No, it needs to be on your birth certificate.

In Las Vegas, you belong when you stick up for it.

IN A 2022 interview with ABC 7 News, Oakland mayor Libby Schaaf referred to Las Vegas as “the gross desert.” Immediately, the terms “Libby Schaaf” and “gross desert” began trending online. Las Vegas locals shared images of Calico Basin, Valley of Fire, and the Fountains of Bellagio, demanding to know if these photos represented the “gross desert” in question. We were insufferable that day — and I say “we” because I tweeted a photo of my favorite Southern Nevada Joshua tree forest and tagged Schaaf in it — but we were united. Mayor Carolyn Goodman urged Schaaf to “please join the more than 42 million visitors

WRITER IN RESIDENCE

In Defense of Las Vegas

a year and enjoy a trip to Las Vegas.” Schaaf doubled down by clearly stating that no, she did not apologize, and oh, by the way, in addition to the gross desert comment, she found our architecture to be tacky, too.

The argument had gone the way these kinds of arguments always do: Someone says something cruel about Las Vegas, and we respond not with vitriol but with attempt after attempt to get them to like us. We’re defensive, but we’re also desperate for approval. I have been at so many events centered on An Important Person From Out of Town where, during the question-and-answer portion, a local has raised their hand and asked, “What do you think of Las Vegas?” The response is usually some variation of It’s dirty/hot/ depressing/I could never raise my kids here/I could never build a life here.

Defend Las Vegas long enough and you start to feel like you’re defending yourself.

Every time I visit my family in New Hampshire, someone at a barbecue inevitably identifies something about my appearance — my lipstick, my high heels — as a symbol of Las

Vegas: “Must be how people out there dress.”

At a conference in Pennsylvania, someone laughed when I ordered a margarita at lunch: “Guess you really are from Las Vegas.”

In my graduate program at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, I am one of the only locals, and as such, I am forever dragging people to the Strip, showing them the canals at the Venetian, the acrobats at Circus Circus, the mezcal speakeasy at the Cosmopolitan, gesturing to showgirls and sunsets and the thousands of flowers at the Bellagio Conservatory & Botanical Gardens. I point to these things and say, This this this don’t you see it’s this? And every so often I’ll be at a party and someone will ask me that eternal question — Why do you like Vegas so much? — and I’ll feel myself shift into evangelism because isn’t it easy? Defending something you love?

DURING THE SUMMER of 2022 — my seventh in Las Vegas — I decided, for the first time, to leave for an extended period. I rented a trailer in Los Angeles, a little silver Airstream in a

36 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH,
COLLAGE Ryan Vellinga
PEXELS
the city I love taught me how to look at it honestly
Leaving

filmmaker’s backyard. Weeks before I left, the worried dreams began: dreams about traffic, smog, living in a huge city where I knew no one. Las Vegas is connected to Los Angeles. Physically, economically, psychically. The highway moves Californians east on Fridays, west on Sundays. I, however, had only been to Los Angeles twice in my life. On the drive there, I drank coffee, listened to country music, felt my hands shake in anticipation, sensed the enormous city on the other side of the border.

Let me be clear: This was a research trip. I was working on a novel set in Los Angeles; I was there to understand the nuts and bolts of the city, not to romanticize it.

I spent the first few days in a state of heightened anxiety. The city was overstuffed: Narrow streets with too many cars, laundromats and donut shops and psychics competing for space in overcrowded strip malls. Driving through the center of it felt like being swallowed, as if I would be there forever, endlessly circling the downtown high rises in search of a parking spot that would never materialize. Every basic maneuver came with a hidden fee, an extra step, a previously unmentioned quest. The first week was a perpetual loop of leaving at the wrong time and spending an hour in traffic, stepping into buildings I wasn’t allowed inside, overdressing, overpaying, getting sunburnt, getting lost. In Las Vegas, it is easy to get around.

The city is on a grid. The major cross streets are named after the casinos they lead to or used to lead to. The lanes are wide. The parking lots are continents. Everywhere you go there is a doorman, a bartender, a taxi line, a concierge — someone to help you. In Los Angeles, I walked an average of nine miles a day, using my phone to get around, and when it inevitably died I felt like I’d lost touch with gravity and left Earth. But I kept engaging with it, and soon enough the hard things became manageable. By week two I was sitting confidently at Tower Bar. Gin martini. Rare steak. View of the pool. By the end of the month, I knew my way around. Falling in love with Los Angeles’ particular brand of unexpected magic is not new; people do it every day. But I did think that as a Las Vegas local, I was above its charms. I was not. I loved it all: fruit vendors on the beach, feral parrots in the sky, the skinny trunks of Mexican fan palms reflected in sunglasses, on the hoods of cars. Everyone around me, aiming for the impossible.

I kept thinking about a UC Berkeley study I’d seen that said most people who leave Los Angeles move to Las Vegas. If Los Angeles is where you go to try and make it, then what is Las Vegas?

When I returned home, I was horrified by my own inner monologue. Suddenly, Las Vegas seemed small, ugly. Stucco and red clay apartments, billboards for personal injury attorneys, Astroturf flecked with cigarette ash, bar-top video poker.

Of course, I couldn’t tell anyone any of this. If I disparaged the city in any way, I’d be proving every smug I don’t know how you live here asshole right.

times beautiful, sometimes ugly, sometimes benevolent, sometimes violent. In the end, it burned down. After the author read, I asked her what it was like writing about a place she loved so much.

“You have to criticize it, even if you love it,” she said. “You can’t love it so much that you fail to tell the truth.”

I told her I was from Las Vegas, and mercifully, she didn’t ask me how I lived there, why I lived there, or when I was planning on leaving for somewhere better. She just nodded and told me to write about it. And to be honest.

“You know, I’m realizing it now,” she said. “There’s no place else like Vegas, is there?”I smiled. “That’s what I’ve been saying.”

When she signed my copy of her book, she wrote: Burn this place down.

For years, I thought I had to choose between loving Las Vegas or criticizing it. Both impulses require a sweeping declaration and leave no room for nuance: the Las Vegas radio station that used to describe itself as broadcasting live from the greatest city in the world, the drunk tourist calling an entire community overrated. But there is love in criticism, in looking at the imperfect elements — the unserious ones like ugly billboards and ubiquitous stucco and the serious ones like lack of affordable housing and lack of water — and wanting things to be better.

In Las Vegas, we often think in extremes. Everything is either amazing or terrible. You hit the jackpot; you lost everything. The weather is perfect; the sun is trying to kill you. You went to a decadent steakhouse; you ate at the cheapest buffet in town. You had the best night ever; you made the worst mistake of your life. I love it here; I hate it and never want to come back.

Krista

I sat on my couch, looking at the power lines, the gas station outside. Someone texted me and asked for restaurant recommendations, and I responded with a list like I always did. But my heart wasn’t in it. Seven years into my relationship with Las Vegas, my commitment was being tested. Was my love of Las Vegas the result of how few other cities I’d spent time in? Could there be a better one?

In the midst of my private crisis, I went to a reading. The author had just published a novel set in another city. A city she loved. A city where most of her stories took place. In the novel, the city’s inhabitants were cruel to each other. The city was some-

Our impulse in defending Las Vegas is rooted in this. We fear that if we don’t stick up for it, we must hate it.

This isn’t true. We can defend Las Vegas, and we can criticize it. We can love it, and we can ask it for more.

“WHY DO YOU like it here?” he asks me.

He in this case is a different stranger. A guy at a nightclub, an Uber driver who just moved to town, a distant relative on the Strip for a trade show.

You know.

Las Vegas, I love you honestly now. I do not try to convince others to love you too. I do not tell them you’re perfect. You’re not. Neither am I.

“I could never live in Vegas,” the stranger says like he always says. Like he always will say.

“Then you don’t have to,” I say.

It is better, I think, to tell the truth. ✦

DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 37
Krista Diamond explores the intersection where Las Vegas, pop culture, media myths, and urban legend meet. is an MFA candidate in UNLV’s Creative Writing program. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, HuffPost, Electric Literature, Narratively, and elsewhere.

EXPOSED

heat-related fatalities among the homeless community from 2020 to 2021.

Santiago’s story illustrates the dire consequences of the problem facing elected officials, public health leaders, community members, and the unhoused themselves. What does a changing climate mean for this growing population of vulnerable Southern Nevadans — and for all of us? *****

“You’ll see guys sleeping under blankets, and they won’t move for a few hours. So, you go to check on them and you realize ‘Oh, he’s dead,’” says Santiago, his face drawn, as he sits with a small group of other men on the sidewalk outside Catholic Charities of Southern Nevada’s main campus. He’s describing what being unhoused is like

in Las Vegas — a city with increasingly extreme temperatures because of climate change and a growing homeless population, exacerbated by pandemic-related evictions and a rising cost of living. This combination of factors is leading to a startling increase of deaths among the unhoused: According to reporting done by the Review-Journal, Clark County saw an 80 percent increase in

Once you’re out on the streets, the chance of you ever being put back into a house again are so small. You have to come up with so many extra deposits … Once you’re homeless, you’ll probably never be housed again. – Lori, an unhoused woman who’s been living on the streets of Las Vegas for years

THE COVID PANDEMIC made situations like Lori’s a reality for thousands of Nevadans. The United Way found that the state ranked No. 2 in the nation for unemployment

38 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 38 AP IMAGES
Community
To see what the effects of extreme heat may be like on a large scale if things don’t change, look no further than the unhoused people in your own city

because of COVID and had the ninth-highest homelessness rate before the pandemic even began.

“What we’re seeing is more homeless individuals on the street due to COVID or new eviction,” says Louis Lacey, director of Homeless Response Teams for HELP of Southern Nevada, and himself a former unhoused individual. “Or then the rising rental costs, which are forcing some people to move out because they can’t afford it. And they end up homeless.” The data bear this out: The Las Vegas Justice Court typically processes about 30,000 evictions in any given year, but that has risen to 45,000 since the Nevada eviction moratorium expired in May. “There’s been a lot of people that are suffering because they’ve been evicted with no place to go,” says Deacon Tom Roberts, CEO of Catholic Charities of Southern Nevada. “They’re just being pushed out on the street.”

COVID is not the only contributing factor to the mounting rates of homelessness — the recent economic downturn and rising inflation have also played a role. “Inflation always hurts the people lowest on the economic ladder,” says Nicholas Barr, a UNLV assistant professor of social work who studies vulnerable populations. And when, as experts estimate, 81.5 percent of those low-income people pay more than half their income toward rent, any rise in costs or inflation can be the difference between remaining housed or not in a metropolitan area such as Las Vegas, which the National Low Income Housing Coalition pegged as first in the nation for severe housing shortages.

While most experts agree that homelessness has increased in recent years, there is little consensus on how many unhoused individuals there actually are in Southern Nevada. Those in the field say the best estimates are from the Point-in-Time (PIT) Count and Survey, which measures how many individuals were experiencing homelessness on a single day. The count this year was on February 23, when surveyors identified 5,645 unhoused people, the most recorded since 2014. Yet, because these numbers represent a snapshot in time on a single day, there are doubts as to whether these numbers are even meaningful.

“The PIT Count is understood to be a not great method of counting, and it’s understood to almost always be a pretty substantial undercount,” Barr says. “It doesn’t capture this group of people who are doubled up with friends or family, or maybe staying in weeklies, who are unstable in their homes, or who are homeless, but are not immediately visible to people just walking around trying

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 39 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS

to do a count over the course of 24 hours.”

Regardless of the PIT Count’s accuracy, it can be helpful in showing broader trends among the homeless population. And those trends, Lacey says, are troubling, especially as concerns the newly unhoused. “We’re seeing more individuals that are on the streets that are not people who have been on the street for a long time,” he notes. “So, we have a lot of families and a lot of individuals who just a few years ago were stably housed and working, and now due to the turn of events … are finding themselves homeless. And some of these folks, they don’t have the survival skills that maybe some of our other unhoused clients who have been homeless for a while have.”

This could spell disaster as the weather gets more extreme. Individuals who have been unhoused for years still struggle with the heat themselves, so the risk for newly unhoused individuals, who don’t have the survival strategies to cope with higher temperatures the way their more experienced

counterparts do, is that much greater as summers get hotter and longer. *****

I know one person who was walking down the street and had a medical episode. She fell down on the pavement and ended up in the hospital, where she eventually lost her leg (to amuptation). The street is so hot it will burn you. Severely, very quickly … So that is something that a lot of people don’t think about: the heat coming off of the sidewalks and the pavement. It can be an ambient 115 degrees, which is not unusual in Las Vegas in the summer. But what is the heat coming off of the pavement? It’s definitely far greater. – Lacey, HELP of Southern Nevada

CLIMATE CHANGE IS often blamed for Las Vegas’ rising summer temperatures, but it is only one of several factors making it the second-fastest warming metropolitan area

in the nation. Another is the urban heat island effect, whereby buildings, roadways, and other manmade structures absorb daytime heat, then release it at night. “This prevents the temperature going below a certain threshold,” says Erick Bandala, a systems research professor at the Desert Research Institute who has been studying the phenomenon for years. Bandala says the urban heat island is worsened by the removal of trees and grass, yet there is a need to balance cooling vegetation with water conservation, another pressing issue facing the region: “It’s a very complex situation here,” he adds.

The urban environment, beyond causing hotter summers, is also leading to more heat-related illnesses among the unhoused. “When we think about climate impacts, people tend to think about drought … floods … wildfire,” says Kristen Averyt, UNLV faculty member and senior climate advisor to Governor Steve Sisolak. “But there are more fatalities associated with extreme heat than any other weather event in a given year.”

The data concur. Last year, the Clark County Coroner’s Office reported 245 heat-related deaths in Southern Nevada, 83 of which were unhoused individuals — an almost 100 percent increase since 2020, when 46 unhoused individuals died from the same causes. “That’s a disproportionate number that are folks experiencing homelessness,” Barr notes. “It’s a huge problem.” The Review-Journal underlined the troubling situation last summer, reporting that 2021 was the deadliest year for the unhoused in a decade. Heat-related fatalities soared to seven times what they were in 2010.

These numbers are so high partly due to just how many conditions fall under the umbrella of “heat-related illnesses.” “Most people just think of heat-related illnesses as, you get exposed to heat and you get heatstroke, but it’s a spectrum of disease,” says UMC’s vice chief of emergency medicine, Ketan Patel. “The higher temperature can trigger strokes, asthma, COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease). People can go into kidney failure … We get a lot of patients transferred in for pavement burns … Also people who have psychiatric disorders, which are actually very common in our homeless population — those patients are also susceptible because of the medications they’re on that have decreased their ability to cope with the heat and regulate their body temperatures.”

The higher temperatures and lack of

40 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 COMMUNITY
RYAN PENSOTES / SHUTTERSTOCK

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TWO CULTURES TWO CUISINES SIDE BY SIDE

urban vegetation, beyond causing or exacerbating physical health conditions, can also play a role in the development of mental health issues among the unhoused.

“When we start looking at homelessness in general, we look at the green spaces, because it’s really tied to their dehydration range,” says Dak Kopec, an architectural psychologist and UNLV architecture professor. “And we don’t want to cause chronic dehydration. What ends up happening is that when you have a higher salt-to-water concentration, it allows for greater conductivity of neural synaptic connections. This is why (dehydration is) highly tied to schizophrenia.”

Any heat-related conditions, whether chronic, physical, or mental, can turn deadly. This is especially true if there’s a delay in medical intervention, a situation that’s not uncommon for a population with historically limited access to healthcare services. “We try to treat them the best we can, but sometimes it’s hard to stop the train once it leaves the station,” Patel says. For those experiencing homelessness, the core problem is the trauma that high heat inflicts on bodies already stressed by starvation, chronic sleep deprivation, and health issues.

Patel explains, “If your body is already at the cusp of having an issue (such as) kidney failure, heart disease, you’re at risk of a stroke — any added stress on top of that can be the straw that breaks the camel’s back.”

That level of constant stress can take a toll on the body, Bandala says, drawing from his research on the long-term effects of heat-related illness. “After exposure to extreme heat, it takes a long period of time for full recovery, if they recover at all.” The initial illness can trigger a lifelong hamster wheel of conditions for an unhoused individual, which can compound upon one another and lead to worse health outcomes over time. “Folks who are unsheltered and experiencing homelessness are not people who have resources to manage complex chronic health conditions,” UNLV’s Barr notes. “And those conditions are always made worse by being poor and being unsheltered. So, it’s this vicious cycle where people are more susceptible to heat death, and they develop chronic illness that then worsens that susceptibility.”

Naturally, when summer temperatures regularly reach highs of more than 110 degrees or the monsoon humidity settles over the valley, the homeless community seeks shelter wherever they can find it. This comes with its own set of dangers, beyond the heat. “If you have nowhere to go, a lot of folks then choose to go underground in

the tunnels, and that creates huge safety issues,” says Lacey with HELP of Southern Nevada. “With the way the rains are here in Southern Nevada, it can rain miles away, but the water is going to come to you. So, all of a sudden, a wall of water comes, and the thing is that everybody has all their stuff down there, and a lot of various items end up in the tunnels. What happens is when these rains come and the waters come crashing down, the items come crashing along with the water. People get knocked down, and then they drown and die.” *****

At the shelter, you get up at five o’clock in the morning, and you’re told to go out, and you’re sitting on a cold cement sidewalk with no place to go. No resources, you don’t know where to go — you’re just stuck there … The other women and I snuggled up to one another just to have our body heat. And hopefully that day will pass by faster, so you can get back in (the shelter) and get cleaned up and just go to sleep. – Karri Finley, a six-decade Las Vegas resident, who was unhoused for five years

WHILE EXPOSURE TO Southern Nevada’s extreme summer heat is generally more deadly for unsheltered individuals, people tend to underestimate how risky the cold and wind are for that same population. “In Vegas we always just think about the extreme heat, but we do get a lot of people who have cold exposure,” says UMC’s Patel. “And that is just like heatstroke — a spectrum … Especially here, when it rains in the winter, (the unhoused) can’t get away from the exposures of the damp cold. It can result in hypothermia, trench foot, infections of the feet. And people oftentimes lose limbs because of exposure.”

The cold, like the heat, can also exacerbate underlying conditions or seasonal illnesses, such as COVID or influenza. Karri Finley, who recently found housing after five years without, became intimately familiar with the dangers of the cold when she caught pneumonia in 2018. “Three o’clock in the morning, I started getting really, really sick just out of nowhere, and I was running a fever,” she remembers. “I almost lost my life.” Yet the illness was the least harmful aspect of the ordeal for Finley. The most devastating part, she says, was the response from the EMT, when they arrived and told

Continued on Pg. 78

42 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 COMMUNITY
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DESERT COMPANION

Restaurant Awards 2022

Last year, we introduced our annual restaurant awards with guarded optimism that the dining scene was (finally!) back to normal — or, at least, had found a new, possibly better-in-some-ways normal. And here we are. A year later, it still seems appropriate to note that, yep, the world has changed, food has changed, the way we live our lives, including eating out, has changed. So, this feature has, too. Practical matters, such as the labor shortage, led us to nix a couple categories. Hidden Gems got its own full section (see Street Eats, p. 29). But the most significant change may be in the way our critics nominated and debated winners — the subtle shift in their thinking about what’s important. These awards have always been aspirational; we’re here to honor excellence and innovation. But emerging from our discussions was something else that matters more than it used to. Call it longevity, tradition, even warmth — the impulse to include a place not only because the food is superb, but also, the maître d’ remembers people’s name, asks about their kids. Group hug, guys! And cheers to all the pioneers, past and future.

DESERT COMPANION | 45 | RESTAURANT AWARDS DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS

Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year (tie)

Khoury’s •

The hallmark of a good neighborhood restaurant is that sense you get the moment you step through the door: You feel like you’re home. And there’s good reason for that here. The Khoury family has been cooking up authentic Lebanese cuisine from recipes passed down through generations and has been sharing it with the rest of us since 2006. (Previously located in the southwest, Khoury’s has

been happily ensconced in the Village Square shopping center on Sahara for a few years.) All recipes are made from scratch in-house, from sauces to pickles to that piping hot-air balloon of a pita that arrives at your table accompanied with a za’atar and olive oil blend. Bring family and friends (of six or more) and dig into the Mediterranean Feast — mezza, salads and meat courses are served family style — or opt for a four-course meal for two on date night. No matter the size of your crew, like a good relative, Khoury’s welcomes all with open arms.

(9340 W. Sahara Ave. #106, 702671-0005, khouryslv.com) — GD

Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year (tie)

Rosa Ristorante •

There are money restaurants, and there are passion restaurants. Because of the hegemony of the Strip (and our franchise-friendly suburbs), Las Vegas is full of the former, while the latter are sometimes hard to find. Rob Moore, a Strip veteran who spent 18 years feeding well-heeled tourists at top-flight steakhouses (Prime and Jean-Georges), probably loves money as much as the next classically trained, über-talented chef, but these days he’s more interested in single-handedly challenging the notion that the words “great food” and “Henderson” don’t belong in the same sentence.

Rosa Ristorante is Moore’s passion project — a sleek, modern space on a busy commercial stretch of St. Rose Parkway, serving, as Moore puts it, “the food I grew up with, cooked the way I like to eat it.” He’s the first to admit that his location is a bit “scary,” and mighty far from northern New Jersey, where he first took to cooking (at age 12). From the day he opened though, early

DESERT COMPANION | 46 | RESTAURANT AWARDS • KHOURY’S MEDITERRANEAN FEAST, SERVED FAMILY STYLE • ROSA RISTORANTE OWNER AND CHEF ROB MOORE PUTS THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON A PLATE OF RIGATONI • ROSA RISTORANTE’S CHEESY RISOTTO FRITTERS

this year, his cuisine has been a hit, featuring the usual suspects (pizzas, chicken parm, etcetera), and other East Coast Italian standards, tweaked and refined with superior groceries and technique.

In this way, Moore brings a sparkle to a too-often cheapened cuisine, making it taste the way it is supposed to, while reminding you why it became famous in the first place. These are pizzas, pastas, and proteins made with feeling — and commitment to something other than the bottom line. One bite of his cheesy risotto fritters, crispy calamari, or rigatoni with sweet and hot sausages tells you right away you are no longer in franchise land. Moore is putting

his food where his neighbors are — a place starved for authenticity — and in doing so gives us high hopes for Henderson’s gastronomic future. (3145 St. Rose Pkwy. #120, 702-4789200, rosaristorante.com) — JC

Asian Restaurant of the Year

Trattoria Nakamura-Ya

•Vegas’ diverse Asian dining scene has been buoyed for the last decade (and beyond) by one of the best Japanese food cultures outside of Nippon itself. Its diversity ranges from the ubiquitous

— think sushi and ramen — to the more obscure, such as tonkatsu and curry. But possibly the most remarkable Las Vegas Asian cuisine is the wafuu pasta served at Trattoria Nakamura-Ya.

Wafuu pasta — Tokyo-style pasta — originated in Japan after World War II, melding Italian preparations with common Japanese ingredients. And Kengo Nakamura cooked in some of Tokyo’s best Italian restaurants before bringing his skills to the States, eventually opening his namesake restaurant, where he delivers dishes that are familiar … yet different.

That means multiple spaghetti preparations: clam-laden and swimming in dashi dotted with shiso, or delivered in a carbonara endowed with the funkiness of miso. It means bruschetta layered with seafaring ingredients such as mentaiko (spicy cod roe), octopus and anchovies, or mussels served escargot-style with sweet miso and even more mentaiko. And in one of the menu’s most memorable dishes, it means tomato cream sauce linguini laced with uni — sea urchin gonads — delivering sweetness and brininess.

Nakamura-Ya has longevity, holding a place in Chinatown’s Seoul Plaza for more than 10 years. Because it’s unique, it tends to fly under the radar, unlike its flashier brethren. There are very few restaurants of Nakamura-Ya’s ilk outside of Japan, and because of this scarcity, Las Vegas diners should know just how lucky we are to have it.

With the recognition of Trattoria Nakamura-Ya, it’s important to acknowledge the man who was instrumental in establishing Vegas’ Japanese culinary scene: restaurant stylist Martin Koleff. Working with Japanese chefs from a variety of backgrounds to establish roots in Vegas, Koleff was at the forefront of our Japanese revolution. And while Martin-san unexpectedly died earlier this year, his legacy lives on in Trattoria Nakamura-Ya and numerous other noteworthy Japanese restaurants across the Valley. (5040 W. Spring Mountain Rd. #5, 702-251-0022, nakamurayalv.com) — JB

DESERT COMPANION | 48 | RESTAURANT AWARDS
• TRATTORIA NAKAMURA-YA’S LINGUINI UNI TOMATO CREAM SAUCE PASTA • TRATTORIA NAKAMURA-YA OWNER AND CHEF KENGO NAKAMURA IN THE KITCHEN • MOCHI MUGI RISOTTO IKASUMI

Restaurateur of the Year

John Arena

•John Arena has been called the Yoda of pizza, but he figures he’s more of a Forrest Gump — someone who “managed to be in the room when something happened.”

The introspective co-owner and -founder of five Metro Pizzas may have been blessed with good timing. But it didn’t hurt that five decades in the industry and a deep well of patience formed a uniquely effective teacher of all things pizza, his wisdom shared with

students at UNLV and throughout the world.

Fresh out of college, Arena and his cousin and business partner, Sam Facchini, left their family of proud New York pizzaiolas for Las Vegas in 1980, as the city was passing out of the mob era and into one of unprecedented growth. They were here when the International Pizza Expo was born in 1985, and their avid participation would eventually bring the world to their doorstep.

And it would be here, in a city of transplants — bolstered by research forays into pizza communities everywhere — that he would learn how

universal pizza is, despite what those Brooklyn roots told him.

“Las Vegas was an eye-opener for us,” Arena says. The first customers — regulars today — of their Original New York Pizza hailed from Detroit and Philadelphia. Soon the partners stopped seeing the world like the old New Yorker cartoon, as a wasteland beyond the Hudson River. This increased awareness led to the inevitable evolution of Original New York into Metro and Arena’s welcoming attitude toward competitors.

“If I’ve had any influence at all, it’s been in fellowship,” says the habitually humble Arena. “You can either circle the wagons, or you can open the circle and let everybody in.” This cosmopolitan outlook is reflected in Metro’s menu, where pizzas like the cheese-indulgent Olde New York are joined

DESERT COMPANION | 49 | RESTAURANT AWARDS DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS
• JOHN ARENA, CO-OWNER AND -FOUNDER OF METRO PIZZA

by The South Side, The Memphis, and The Honolulu.

Now he and business partner (and longtime protegé) Chris Decker are branching out to Dana Point, California, where they’re developing Truly, “a true expression of who we are as pizza-makers.” This despite an ongoing battle with Parkinson’s disease, which Arena sees as “my chance to help someone else, to serve as an example by continuing to keep going with my career.”

That perspective keeps growing. “Now we’re in a renaissance,” Arena said. “Michelin-starred chefs are starting to take pizza seriously — high-end chefs who say they don’t want to go back to fine dining.” — HKR

Hall of Fame (tie)

Piero’s Italian Cuisine

•Therewas a time when Italian restaurants, packed with notorious Italians, ruled the roost in Las Vegas. When you would pop into The Vineyard, The Venetian (the restaurant on West Sahara, not the hotel), or Chateau Vegas and see guys with nicknames, such as Big Tuna or Tony the Ant, pounding Jack Daniel’s as they planned their next big score or discussed how to dodge an FBI wiretap. Most of those restaurants (and the the goodfellows who frequented them) now sleep with the fishes, but Piero’s has endured as a bastion of days gone by — a throwback dishing up nostalgia and old-school Italian-American fare — where the only thing you have to worry about over dinner is whether your  capo di tutti capi has sold you down the river.

These days, instead of running into Sammy the Bull, you’re more likely to find yourself commiserating at the bar with a Brad, Tyler, or Chip, and the only thing you’re likely to be garroted by is a stray lanyard. Still, Piero’s fairly crackles with an electricity you rarely find in more sedate Italian restaurants. Ginormous martinis, pasta fagioli zuppa, textbook perfect linguine with clams, and an osso buco that sets the standard, round out a menu full of comfort food classics — all served with a big dose of Vegas history by

DESERT COMPANION | 50 | RESTAURANT AWARDS

the Glusmans (first dad Freddie, now son Evan), who brought their own brand of buon gusto to town in 1982, and who know their clientele like a loan shark knows percentages. The mobsters may be gone, but being a stone’s throw from the Las Vegas Convention Center means Piero’s is always packed — with expense-account types rubbing elbows with a cadre of locals who wouldn’t change a thing about the joint. Every celebrity who ever got a whiff of Vegas has stopped in for some “Sunday Gravy” or rib-sticking pasta, and everyone from Bill Clinton to Mike Tyson to Robert De Niro (in the movie Casino no less ) has claimed a booth here at one time or another. How much more Vegas can you get? (355 Convention Center Dr., 702-3692305, pieroscuisine.com) — JC

Hall of Fame (tie) Peppermill Restaurant and Fireside Lounge

•Ifyou’ve ever had one of those late nights on the Strip (maybe friends are in town, or a bout of insomnia has got hold of you), and you’re craving a nocturnal breakfast with a side of Vegas history, there’s only one destination that fits the bill: Peppermill Restaurant and Fireside Lounge. The 24-hour joint, which debuted in 1972, is the story of our town writ large (in neon, natch, but also on the big screen, in movies such as Showgirls and Casino). As it celebrates its half-century birthday, the Peppermill is showing the rest of us how something gets better with age. And in a town that likes to give its facades a makeover once they get a little long in the tooth, it’s refreshing to see one of the only freestanding buildings on the Boulevard rightfully claim its vintage status, while also evoking that ultramodern lounge vibe. Far from an epitaph, this award is our official statement of hope that the Peppermill will be here forever, because there’s nowhere we’d rather two-fist a 64-ounce Scorpion as we wait for night to turn into day. (2985 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702-735-4177, peppermilllasvegas.com) — GD

• PIERO’S ITALIAN CUISINE’S OSSO BUCO

• PIERO’S ITALIAN CUISINE’S BAR & WINE CELLAR

• PEPPERMILL’S MASERATI OMELET

• ERIC PRATO, OWNER OF GARAGISTE

Rising Star of the Year Eric Prato

•Eric Prato chuckles about it now, but two years ago, it was no joke. “No one told us about COVID; a pandemic wasn’t in the business plan,” he grins through gritted teeth when asked about the challenges of opening Garagiste, a boutique wine bar, in the heart of the Arts District.

If timing is everything in wine, then Prato’s couldn’t have been worse. After taking two years to convince authorities that a by-theglass bar with off-premise retail sales was a viable idea, he poured his first obscure Tempranillo on November 1, 2019, only to be shuttered four months later. The shutdowns of 2020-2021 may have been a blessing in disguise, though, because faster than you can say “pent-up demand,” Prato’s lifelong dream (hatched

years ago when he was a sommelier at Bouchon) has born more fruit than sauvignon blanc in September.

What seemed like a bold experiment in 2019 now looks like a sure thing. Oenophiles from all over the Vegas Valley come to sample wines they can’t find anywhere else — biodynamic, organic, orange, natural — mostly from producers you don’t know made from grapes you’ve never heard of. Prato’s mission is educating customers to try something new, and if the steady stream of younger, adventuresome wine lovers at the bar is any indication (along with his burgeoning online sales), he is succeeding by tapping into (or helping create) a market no one in Las Vegas knew existed.

Had it with Cali cabs? Why not a Priorat? Tired of overpriced chardonnay? Then he has a Vinho Verde in the wings. Garagiste isn’t just a wine store; it is a local wine phenomenon, and Prato is leading us into a new century of wine appreciation. — JC

DESERT COMPANION | 51 | RESTAURANT AWARDS
OMELET COURTESY PEPPERMILL RESTAURANT

Chef of the Year Nicole Brisson

•Culinarians have a particularly mobile trade, but chef Nicole Brisson really has done it all. The upstate New York native went to Italy for work and training not long after graduating from Johnson & Wales University. After a brief foray into Southern California, she moved to the valley in 2005. Two years later she crossed the street to Las Vegas’ answer to Italy, The Venetian. She stayed there for eight years with Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s B&B Hospitality Group, eventually rising to executive chef, head of the dry-aging program, and culinary director for the group’s Las Vegas location.

Following more educational and trade-related trips to Italy, Brisson’s next move was to Eataly at Park MGM, where she oversaw 500 employees as the company’s only female executive chef in the country. A year later she ventured off the Strip to open Locale, a neighborhood Italian restaurant. Her newest projects, with business partner Jason Rocheleau: a return to the Strip with Brezza (see p. 53) and Bar Zazu at Resorts World.

You might notice an Italian thread, which has nothing to do with her heritage. “I always wondered what my career would be like if I didn’t go to Italy” that first time, Brisson says. “Those trips fueled my love for Italian cuisine even more and built strong ties within the Italian culinary community.” — HKR

Strip Restaurant of the Year Brezza

•Brezza is the Italian word for “breeze” — an apt name, as executive chef Nicole Brisson and business partner Jason Rocheleau have imbued their Resorts World restaurant with a freshness that seems to drift from the Amalfi Coast.

As has long been Brisson’s way, much of her inspiration lies in her dedication to sustainability and seasonality. But Brezza, which opened in the summer of 2021, is

also a product of her love affair with Italy and her gratitude for mentors that represent The Boot.

These influences are reflected in such dishes as heirloom tomato salad with tomato gelée, inspired by Fabio Picchi of Florence, Italy; Tuscan carne cruda , inspired by internationally famous butcher Dario Cecchini of Tuscany; and the restaurant’s aged-meat program, inspired by Cecchini and Mario Batali. Those steaks are finished

with white oak and charcoal — and olive branches, in a nod to the Stardust-era trees that surround the restaurant’s patio.

After years spent working for others, Brisson was excited to see her name in lights and appreciates the autonomy the partners were granted for Brezza.

“It’s giving me the ability,” she says, “to be the chef I want to be.”

(3000 S. Las Vegas Blvd. #115, 702676-6014, brezzaitalian.com) — HKR

DESERT COMPANION | 53 | RESTAURANT AWARDS
• CHEF OF THE YEAR NICOLE BRISSON • (TOP) BREZZA’S LOBSTER CAMPANELLE • (LEFT), TUSCAN CARNE CRUDA (RIGHT), HEIRLOOM CAPRESE

New Restaurant of the Year

Scotch 80 Prime

•Rarely are sequels as good as the original. The Godfather: Part II , Aliens , and Evil Dead II come to mind. And now we have Scotch 80 Prime.

Similar in name and space alone, the venue reopened earlier this year as a part of the San Manuel Band of Mission Indians’ reintroduction of the Palms — the tribe’s first Vegas resort. Originally opened under chef Barry Dakake as a part of Station Casino’s lavish revitalization, the venue closed with the property less than two years later, following the onset of COVID.

At the helm now is chef de cuisine

Marty Red DeLeon Lopez, a Vegas veteran who previously served as the executive chef of Aria’s Herringbone, among other Strip positions. Scotch 80 marks Lopez’s return to the Palms — he previously worked upstairs at Alizé in the current Vetri space — but now it’s his opportunity to showcase his abilities. And it’s his attention to detail that sets him apart.

As steakhouses are a Vegas casino staple, it can be difficult to differentiate one from another. But Lopez manages do so in the details. He highlights his heritage in his tiradito with the inclusion of traditional Filipino ingredients such as jackfruit, pickled papaya, and taro chips. His kitchen takes risks with burrata topped with uni and Osetra caviar, pairing seafood with cheese,

and the sweet sea urchin assuming a role normally reserved for fruit. He offers A5 Wagyu from a half-dozen prefectures throughout Japan, even allowing diners to order wagyu flights in the ultimate form of decadence. And even more indulgent is his butter wagyu — loin wet-aged in butter for up to nine months. As if wagyu weren’t already buttery enough, the aging process imparts even more fattiness. It is an epiphany and one of the single most memorable bites in town.

Like a good sequel, Scotch 80 Prime builds upon the original and continues a story. It will be a thrill to see how the story continues, as Lopez and his team develop the restaurant further. (4321 W. Flamingo Rd., 866-942-7780, palms. com/dining) — JB

DESERT COMPANION | 55 | RESTAURANT AWARDS DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS
• SCOTCH 80 PRIME’S RIBEYE STEAK WITH MILLIONAIRE MACCHERONI • BURRATA • RAINBOW TIRADITO

Restaurant of the Year

Anima by EDO

•Somerestaurateurs just get it, succeeding regardless of the circumstances in a difficult industry. In Vegas, Roberto Liendo and Oscar Amador are among that group. And their latest venture, Anima by EDO, is our Restaurant of the Year.

The duo first partnered on the Boqueria Street food truck before opening their acclaimed EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine, which tied with Ester’s Kitchen and Partage for our 2018 Restaurant of the Year, on the outskirts of Chinatown. And now, they have their second brickand-mortar at The Gramercy Las Vegas, offering a meld of Italian and Spanish cuisine — fitting since anima is both Italian and Spanish for “soul” — while still dabbling in the amorphous, where Amador excels,

seamlessly intertwining aspects of cuisines from even Japan, India, and France.

• ATLANTIC OCTOPUS WITH OLIVES, CAPERS, POTATO, CAMPARI TOMATO, AND GALLEGA SAUCE

Anima was thrown a curve when their Italian opening chef departed earlier this year, forcing the Spaniard Amador to take over day-to-day kitchen operations. A testament to his talent: The restaurant didn’t miss a beat; in fact, with the larger venue, Amador has more creative freedom with daily specials than at the matchbox-sized EDO.

Very few of the dishes are solely Italian or Spanish, instead drawing from each and even other cuisines. Earthy, umami-laden truffle cavatelli, finished tableside with bone marrow, is strewn with salchichón, a Spanish summer sausage, while Roman cacio e pepe is stuffed inside the tapas menu-staple croquetas, and eggplant parmigiana is showcased in a manner befitting Spanish molecular gastronomy. The infamous bikini sandwiches — one of a few

interlopers from EDO’s menu — are basically Spanish, while the playful tasting menu fixture of Kaluga caviar and eggs is an amalgam of Japan, Russia, and Greece.

All of this while front-of-house operates with clocklike precision under Strip-veteran Liendo’s watch. Particularly gleeful is sommelier Paolo Uccellatori, keeping you socially lubricated with an expansive wine selection heavy in both Italian and Spanish selections, along with what is likely Vegas’ most expansive amari selection.

EDO hinted at Amador’s chameleon-like cuisine with a menu dotted with Asian dishes paying homage to the Chinatown area. Anima is where he gets to capitalize on his adoration of world cuisine, branching out across the globe. And the Valley is better for it with a restaurant befitting the Strip. (9205 W. Russell Rd. #185, 702-202-4291, animabyedo.com)— JB

DESERT COMPANION | 56 | RESTAURANT AWARDS
EGGS; (RIGHT) TRUFFLE CAVATELLI
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2022

While “’tis the season for giving” may have joined the ranks of cliché holiday sayings quite some time ago, the concept still resonates loud and clear with many Las Vegas businesses and organizations that work tirelessly to improve the quality of life for the metropolitan area’s 2 million-plus residents. Through efforts that range from offering various forms of assistance and support, to programs that empower less-fortunate individuals and families with the capabilities necessary to successfully engage in everyday life, to providing opportunities for educational and career advancement and success, philanthropy surely is alive and well in Las Vegas.

SPONSORED BY

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 59 IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

The Howard Hughes Corporation® is proud to sponsor for the eighth year, “In the Spirit of Giving,” a testament to philanthropy in Southern Nevada. As a community builder, we well understand the value of collective commitment and corporate and individual giving to advance programs, initiatives and nonprofits that improve quality of life – not just for select communities – but for all who call Southern Nevada home.

This year, The Howard Hughes Corporation was particularly focused on helping nonprofits in the education, environmental and social services sectors, reflective of our own corporate values.

We believe that access to a quality education is foundational to individual success and overall community wellbeing. That’s why we are proud supporters of the UNLV Foundation, the Public Education Foundation, Summerlin Children’s Forum and Vegas PBS.

We believe it is everyone’s responsibility to protect natural and historical landmarks, to build sustainability into everything we do, and to teach students the value of growing their own food, while simultaneously teaching the basics of math, science and business via a robust school garden program. That’s why we are proud supporters of Green Our Planet, Get Outdoors Nevada and Nevadans for Cultural Preservation

We believe a robust network of community and social services improve the lives of those who need our help most. That’s why we are proud supporters of Goodie Two Shoes Foundation and HELP of Southern Nevada.

At The Howard Hughes Corporation, we believe that giving back is a right, a privilege and an obligation for those who have the capacity to do so. We remain grateful for those who join us in giving - corporate partners, philanthropic foundations and individuals - who each prioritize and value community betterment.

Working together, we are stronger – Vegas Stronger. May the giving spirit of the holiday season carry us through the coming year.

With

IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING 60 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 2022

CONTACT:

Get Outdoors Nevada

21 N. Pecos Road, Suite 106

Las Vegas, NV 89101

702-997-3350

info@getoutdoorsnevada.org getoutdoorsnevada.org

MISSION

Get Outdoors Nevada connects people to the outdoors by providing opportunities to experience, learn about, and care for our outdoor spaces. We provide nature-based learning programs for children, especially those that have limited opportunity to experience the outdoors. Whether planting a native habitat, discovering the mysteries of the desert, or exploring public lands on a field trip, we love inspiring Nevada’s next generation of outdoor adventurers! We provide meaningful volunteer opportunities at community parks and trails. From removing trash to planting trees, and even building playgrounds—our volunteers are up for the challenge! We love Nevada’s outdoors and we are proud to serve as the official partner for the Lake Mead National Recreation Area through our “Love Lake Mead” initiative

CONTACT

Green Our Planet

8020 S. Rainbow Boulevard Suite 100-620

Las Vegas, NV 89139

702-624-8912

ciara@greenourplanet.org greenourplanet .org

MISSION

Green Our Planet teaches students to love and care for our planet through comprehensive STEM school garden and hydroponics programs throughout the United States. We use gardens as a portal for understanding both life on Earth and our place in the universe. Outdoor gardens and indoor hydroponic systems are installed at schools so that they can be used as living laboratories, which help inspire students to become the next generation of scientists, farmers, chefs, and entrepreneurs. Whether it’s the seeds in gardens or the seeds of knowledge in young minds, Green Our Planet inspires growth. We open students’ minds to the wonders of the universe–from the soil to the stars–in everything we do.

CONTACT

UNLV Foundation

4505 S. Maryland Parkway

Box451006

Las Vegas,NV 89154-1006

702-895-3641

unlvfoundation@unlv.edu

unlv.edu/ philanthropy

MISSION

The UNLV Foundation raises and manages private funds for the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. These funds help UNLV and its diverse students, faculty, staff and alumni advance community wellbeing and individual achievement through education, research, scholarship, innovative programs, and clinical services. We also stimulate economic development and diversification, foster a climate of innovation, promote health and enrich the cultural vitality of the community we serve. Through the UNLV Foundation every charitable dollar UNLV receives has an exponential impact, as it helps us leverage UNLV’s most valuable skills – research, teaching and community service – for the benefit of all Nevadans.

SPONSORED BY

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CONTACT

Vegas PBS

3050 E. Flamingo Road

Las Vegas, NV 89121

702-799-1010

membership@vegaspbs.org vegaspbs.org

MISSION

Vegas PBS creates an informed and engaged community through experiences that educate and empower individuals and organizations. It is among America’s most-watched PBS stations, offering three secondary channels: Create, Vegas PBS Kids and WORLD. By working with strategic partners, the station creates content that emphasizes regional issues.

Beyond the broadcast, Vegas PBS provides a variety of educational services including Ready To Learn workshops, teacher professional development, multimedia support for educators and a Special Needs Resource Library. Vegas PBS’ Workforce Education offers over 350 online courses and nationally-accredited certifications, which connect individuals with fulfilling careers.

CONTACT

Summerlin ® Children’s Forum

10845 Griffith Peak Drive, Suite 160 Las Vegas, Nevada 89135

702-791-4000

Randy.Ecklund@HowardHughes.com summerlin.com

MISSION

The Summerlin ® Children’s Forum (SCF) is a nonprofit organization established in 1997 by leaders of the Summerlin master-planned community and its developer, The Howard Hughes Corporation ® The organization is dedicated to recognizing academic excellence. Since inception, the Summerlin Children’s Forum has provided college scholarships and school enrichment grants totaling nearly $ 70 0,000. Today, Summerlin Children’s Forum is focused on its annual college scholarship program that is open to all graduating high school seniors who reside in Summerlin.

CONTACT

Nevadans for Cultural Preservation

7925 W. Russell Rd. Box 400483

Las Vegas, NV 89140

702-466-3013

Contact@nvfcp.org

NVFCP .org

MISSION

Nevadans for Cultural Preservation (NVFCP) promotes and participates in the preservation of Nevada’s archaeological and historic cultural sites through education, special projects, and partnerships. From petroglyph images carved into stone thousands of years ago to abandoned mining towns, NVFCP works to protect the places that connect us to our history.

Specializing in public education and interpretation, site management, and graffiti removal, NVFCP believes that education and participation in preservation activities are key to fostering responsible citizens that will continue to value and protect these cultural sites for the enjoyment and understanding of current and future generations

SPONSORED BY

IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING 62 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
2022

P Public Education FOUNDATION EF

CONTACT

The Public Education Foundation

4505 S. Maryland Parkway MS 1077

Las Vegas, NV 89154-1077

702-799-1042

info@thepef.org

www.thepef.org

MISSION

The Public Education Foundation partners with the community and the Clark County School District to meet immediate, critical education needs that will strengthen our public schools. Since 1991, PEF has guided effective investments in education on behalf of our students, families, and educators. This year, we distributed $5 million in college scholarships to help students pursue their college and career dreams, provided more than $1 million in essential classroom supplies for students and educators, and mentored 100 future teachers as part of a larger community solution to end our teacher shortage crisis. Together, we can drive public education forward.

CONTACT:

Goodie Two Shoes Foundation

10620 Southern Highlands Parkway, #110-474

Las Vegas, NV 89141

702-617-4027

info@goodietwoshoes.org goodietwoshoes.org

MISSION

Since 2003, GTSF has outfitted over 129,000 of our community’s most critical-needs students with new shoes and socks. GTSF EMPOWERS children with CHOICE by giving them the opportunity to select any properly fitting pair of new sneakers they like from our 48’ mobile shoe unit! The experience boosts confidence and immediately eliminates a very visible sign of poverty. We continually have sponsorship & volunteer opportunities available! Each of our school-based shoe distribution events is staffed by volunteers who assist the children in selecting a pair of brand-new, sneakers. We’re always eager to introduce new funders & volunteer groups to what we do! www.goodietwoshoes.org

CONTACT

HELP of Southern Nevada

1640 East Flamingo Road, #100 Las Vegas, NV 89119

702-369-4357

info@helpsonv.org helpsonv.org

MISSION

For more than 50 years, HELP of Southern Nevada has remained steadfast in its mission to assist families and individuals throughout the Valley to overcome barriers and attain self-sufficiency through direct services, training and referral to community resources.

Now through January 1, 2023, HELP of Southern Nevada is honored to be included as one of the Giving Machine recipients. Located in Downtown Summerlin, donations can be made at the ‘vending machines’ by purchasing items ranging from $5 to $250 including: clothing, meals, diapers and more. One hundred percent of the proceeds purchased for HELP will go directly in support of the organization’s programs including Adult Housing Programs, Homeless Response Teams and the Shannon West Homeless Youth Center. Visit the Giving Machine this year and make the world a better place.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 63 IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING

CONTACT:

Las Vegas-Clark County Library District Foundation

7060 W. Windmill Lane

Las Vegas, NV 89113

702-507-6179

prevettij@lvccld.org

lvccld.org/foundation

MISSION:

The Las Vegas-Clark County Library District Foundation attracts new resources, cultivates partnerships, invests in cutting-edge learning opportunities, and launches innovations targeting school success, workforce development, and narrowing the digital divide. Our priority programs:

Teen Tech Labs help teens master digital skills and prepare for the global workforce.

Teachers in Libraries offers free tutoring with Clark County School District teachers and UNLV students.

Raising Las Vegas provides tools to increase parent engagement, key factors to children’s future success in school and the workforce.

Business & Career Success provides small business resources plus workforce training and readiness for youth and adults.

CONTACT

Nevada Ballet Theatre

1651 Inner Circle

Las Vegas, NV 89134

702-243-2623

info@nevadaballet.org

nevadaballet.org

MISSION:

Now in its 50th year, Nevada Ballet Theatre (NBT) continues to enrich Las Vegas’ cultural landscape with Professional Company productions, an affiliated Ballet and Dance Academy offering the highest level of training, and outstanding arts education programs that provide free access to dance for local youth. As a 501(c)(3) nonprofit performing arts organization, NBT is the largest professional Ballet company in the state and the Resident Ballet Company of The Smith Center for the Performing Arts. The mission of NBT is to inspire audiences and vitally impact community life with artistic talent and new works, dance training, and community education.

CONTACT

Junior Achievement of Southern Nevada

1921 N. Rainbow Blvd., Floor 2 Las Vegas, NV 89108

702-214-0503

Michelle Jackson, President & CEO michelle.jackson@ja.org

southernnevada.ja.org

MISSION

Our Mission: Empowering Youth to Own Their Economic Success

Our Vision: We envision a world in where young people have the skillset and mindset to build thriving communities. At Junior Achievement of Southern Nevada, we believe that by investing in our youth’s economic futures today, we can change their tomorrow. Together with business leaders, schools and volunteers, we teach young people how to make smart financial decisions, prepare them for the workforce and become entrepreneurs. By inspiring them to dream big and see a world of limitless opportunity, we can make the future better for all of us.

SPONSORED BY

IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING 64 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 2022

CONTACT

Springs Preserve

333 S. Valley View Boulevard Las Vegas, NV 89107

702-258-3258

foundation@springspreserve.org springspreserve.org

MISSION

Our mission is to create a visitor experience that builds culture and community, inspires environmental stewardship and celebrates the vibrant history of the Las Vegas Valley. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1978, the Springs Preserve is a 180-acre cultural institution designed to commemorate Las Vegas’ dynamic history and provide a vision for a sustainable future.

The Preserve features museums, galleries, outdoor events, colorful botanical gardens and an interpretive trail system through a scenic wetland habitat.

CONTACT

CandleLighters Childhood Cancer Foundation of Nevada

8990 Spanish Ridge Ave., Suite 100 Las Vegas, NV 89148

702-737-1919

info@candlelightersnv.org CandleLightersNV.org

MISSION

For over forty years our mission has been to provide emotional support, quality of life programs and financial assistance for children and their families affected by childhood cancer. Approximately 80 families each year in Southern Nevada hear the words “Your child has cancer”. We are there for those families when they receive this devastating news. We help alleviate the isolation many families feel at the time their child is diagnosed by offering a variety of services which are available at no cost to the families. Candlelighters offers support through all the different stages of cancer treatment the families may experience: diagnosis, treatment, recovery, potential relapse, residual medical issues and at times, death. With donations from generous people like you, families can continue to receive the help and hope they need to bravely fight their battle with childhood cancer. Please help light the way for these families by donating, volunteering or participating in an event. ...because kids can’t fight cancer alone.

SPONSORED BY

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 65 IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING
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CONTACT

Touro University Nevada

874 American Pacific Drive Henderson, NV 89014

702-777-3100

TUN.advancement@touro.edu

tun.touro.edu

MISSION

Touro University Nevada’s mission is to provide quality education programs in the fields of healthcare and education in concert with the Judaic commitment to social justice, intellectual pursuit, and service to humanity.

CONTACT

Nevada Child Seekers

6375 W. Charleston Blvd Bld L-180 Las Vegas, NV 89146

702-458-7009

NevadaChildSeekers.org

MISSION

“Missing” “Taken” “Abduction” “ Runaway ” Words that strike fear into parents. Words that send Nevada Child Seekers into action! Over 8,000 children are reported missing each year in Nevada, and approximately 200 are considered endangered or abducted, according the Nevada’s Missing Children Clearinghouse.

INVITES TO EXCLUSIVE EVENTS

A non-profit, Jewish-affiliated, private university, Touro University Nevada was established in 2004 to help address and serve the critical needs in medicine, health care, and education in the State of Nevada.

DOUBLE ENTREES IN TICKET GIVEAWAYS

Today, Touro is the state’s largest medical school and enrolls more than 1,500 students in degree programs in osteopathic medicine, nursing, physical therapy, occupational therapy, physician assistant studies, medical health sciences, and education.

IT FEELS REALLY GOOD

Become a

SPONSORED BY

Nevada Child Seekers was created in 1985 in response to these alarming statistics to address the plight of missing children in our communities. As we experience rapid growth in population, so does the need to provide additional help and support to families and law enforcement for the location and reunification of our missing children. Over the years services have expanded to include safety education programs, counseling referrals, support groups and active participation with the Nevada Amber Alert Committee. We host hundreds of child safety assemblies a year from K-12 grade. Empowering our children with the tools and resources to protect themselves and one another.

SPONSORED BY

IN THE SPIRIT OF GIVING 66 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 2021
25
member at knpr.org

COMPREHENSIVE CANCER CENTERS has participated in the development of 100 new FDA approved cancer treatments. With 170 ongoing clinical research studies, right here in Southern Nevada, we are entering a new age in cancer treatment — where people are no longer entrenched in their battle against cancer, but instead living with cancer . These new cancer therapies are increasing the quality of life for our patients and their families, and most importantly, giving them the opportunity to live their lives to the fullest.

cccnevada.com • 702.952.3350
100
Giving me more holidays with my family Clinical Research at Comprehensive has led to
New FDA Approved Cancer Treatments
forValuePricing SelectDates NEVADA BALLET THEATRE Music by Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky Choreography by James Canfield December 9–24, 2022 DANCER PHOTO BY BILL HUGHES “Winter’s most festive spectacle!” — DUJOUR MAGAZINE (702) 749-2000 • NevadaBallet.org

Exchanging gifts with your bestie, taking the parents on a glittering-lights drive, raising funds to get homeless pets adopted … Whatever your Hanukkah-Solstice-ChristmasKwanzaa-Boxing Day-New Year-Spring Festival pleasure, we’ve got something for you in this complete guide for shopping, getting out, and giving back.

Happy holidays!

GIFTS BY LOURDES TRIMIDAL

EVENTS BY JANA MARQUEZ

CHARITY OPPORTUNITIES BY ANNE DAVIS

LOCALLY MADE

Support local artists with unique, handmade finds

VINTAGE SHIRTS

Las Vegas-based artist Barney “Sugatone”

Suguitan has turned his clothing upcycling hobby into a cottage industry, selling hand-tie-dyed shirts branded with iconic ’90s logos and niche pop culture art. $10-140, vintagedlv.com

Winter-seeking Las Vegans who head for Mt. Charleston as soon as the snow sticks — or those for whom wearing boots is simply a lifestyle choice — will love to sink their tootsies into Ross & Snow’s handcrafted puff boots with rubber outsole and wool lining. $395, ross-snow.com

HANDMADE CANDLES

Homegrown and inspired by Los Angeles’ artistic, colorful culture, the 1988 Monster + Ghost candle takes you back to the pop culture boom.

Owner-artisan Spencer Phillips makes his 36-hour candles of vegan wax and natural essential oils. $30, monsterandghost.com

HAND-FOLDED BOOK ART

What if a story could literally leap from the page? The Book Magician Etsy shop sculpts pictures on the edges of pages, creating 3-D paper designs — including your customized creation. $36.99-129.99, Etsy.com/shop/thebookmagician

CUSTOMIZED PET PORTRAIT CREWNECK

You can wear your heart on your heart with a line-art drawing of your pet on this comfy crewneck sweater. $60, shopcupofoj.com

70 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
• HOLIDAY GUIDE 2022 • • GIFT
GUIDE

THROUGH DEC. 24

THE NUTCRACKER

Choreographed by James Canfield, Nevada Ballet Theater’s The Nutcracker takes the audience on a dazzling journey that has become a Las Vegas holiday favorite over the past 41 years. Evening times vary, $35.95-185.95, Reynolds Hall at The Smiths Center, thesmithcenter.com

THROUGH DEC. 25

TOURNAMENT OF KINGS: ’TWAS THE KNIGHT

Guests of all ages can eat a three-course sans-utensil feast, hosted by King Arthur’s court, while cheering on knights in their valorous exploits. This year, Merlin goes holiday Medieval on audiences by summoning snowfall upon the kingdom during this special show. Evening times vary, $51.86, Excalibur Hotel & Casino, excalibur.mgmresorts.com

THROUGH DEC. 27

A VERY TERRY CHRISTMAS

Singer, comedian, and ventriloquist Terry Fator returns for a holiday special, using his kaleidoscopic voice to bring to life an iconic puppet cast. Characters joining him onstage include Elvis impersonator Maynard

Thompkins with a rendition of “Blue Christmas” and Apollo Theater veteran Julius with his Barry White version of “Dreidel, Dreidel, Dreidel.”

7:30p, $34.95-$54.99, New York-New York Hotel & Casino, newyorknewyork.mgmresorts.com

RUN, SANTA, RUN!

DEC. 3

LAS VEGAS GREAT SANTA RUN

MUSIC

DEC. 2 FROM PARIS WITH LOVE – CELEBRATING THE HOLIDAYS!

Enjoy an evening with Paris Chansons as they return to Las Vegas to perform classic French favorites with a holiday twist. They perform a mix of jazzy improvisation and slowburning ballads, taking the audience on a journey that celebrates French and international music.

THROUGH DEC. 31

THE IMMERSIVE NUTCRACKER: A WINTER MIRACLE

Step into a Christmas classic dream world! A 500,000-cubic-foot display of projections and special effects bring The Nutcracker to life for an immersive holiday experience. Tchaikovsky’s timeless score and a life-sized Nutcracker are the icing on the holiday fruitcake. 11a-7:30p, $34.99-49.99, Lighthouse Immersive Las Vegas at The Shops at Crystals, immersive-nutcracker.com

THROUGH JAN. 1 ENCHANT LAS VEGAS

No time to fly overseas to the actual City of Lights? No problem! In its second year, Enchant Las Vegas has fashioned its own illuminated winter wonderland — with

light maze, shops, artisan vendors, and ice skating — now with two locations: Resorts World and Las Vegas Ballpark. Evening times vary, $19.95-34, Las Vegas Ballpark and Resorts World Las Vegas, enchantchristmas.com

THROUGH JAN. 2

THE RINK AT THE BOULEVARD POOL

Each year, the Cosmo’s rooftop Boulevard Pool transforms into a 4,200-square-foot ice-skating rink, with light snowfall, holiday movies playing, and s’mores served over the fire pits. Think of it as a way to enjoy the lights of the Las Vegas Strip from above. Afternoon and evening times vary, $15-30, The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

6-7:15p, free, Whitney Library, lvccld.bibl iocommons.com

DEC. 2

DAVID PERRICO POP STRINGS ORCHESTRA –THE CHRISTMAS SHOW

David Perrico’s Pop Strings Orchestra plays anything “from Beyonce to Beethoven,” as they’re fond of saying, including classical, EDM, Latin, jazz, pop, R&B, rock, and original compositions. The dynamic, 14-piece orchestra comes together for a special Christmas show, which will incorporate their innovative flair in holiday hits. 7p, for prices visit website, Myron’s at The Smith’s Center, thesmithcenter.com

DEC. 10

VERY VERY MARIACHI

Arguably the most popular of local holiday fun runs returns to Downtown Las Vegas this year for its 18th season, this time with a hybrid format! The in-person race will include a Fremont Street Experience pre-show before participants embark on the 5k course and then cross the finish line into post-race fun — food trucks, vendors, and live entertainment. The virtual run can be completed any time between December 3 and 24. Santa pets are welcome, too! 8a, $45, Fremont Street Experience, raceroster.com

Want to make any song sound better? Mariachify it. In this holiday show, the Latin Grammy-nominated Mariachi Herencia de México will break out Mexican and American seasonal classics, which (please please please!) hopefully includes “Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer.” 7:30p, $20-50, UNLV’s Artemus Ham Hall, unlv.edu/pac

THROUGH JAN. 1 HOLIDAY CACTUS GARDEN LIGHTS

Take the whole family for Santa selfies or enjoy chocolatey treats while strolling through a million-plus Christmas lights and holiday décor. The entrance fee this year will be donated to Help of Southern Nevada homeless youth and Three Square Food Bank. 5:3010p, $1, Ethel M Chocolate Factory and Botanical Garden, ethelm.com

THROUGH JAN. 8 SNOW CARNIVAL

With 350 tons of real snow falling from the rafters and coating the ground, M Resort’s indoor Snow Carnival could be your only opportunity this winter to build snowmen, throw snowballs, and coast down slopes through a candy cane forest. 3-9p, $29.9936.99, M Resort Spa Casino, snowcarnival.com

THROUGH JAN. 11 BAD ELF POPUP BAR

Naughty elves will take over the Shady Grove Lounge — which the Silverton dubs the “home to all rebels without a Claus” — by giving it a makeover of festive garland, twinkly lights, and oversized ornaments. Inspired by everyone’s favorite shady holiday menace, the Elf on the Shelf, the bar introduces a holiday cocktail menu. Times vary, prices vary, Shady Grove Lounge at Silverton Casino Hotel, silvertoncasino.com

THROUGH JAN. 15 CHRISTMAS IN HELL

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire ... of damned souls? The musical-comedy Christmas in Hell, makes its Las Vegas debut, following a young boy who gets mistakenly sent down to Hell on Christmas Eve, prompting his father’s journey to make a deal with the devil

The Pentagogical Brass Band is five brass-wielding music teachers, and in this concert, they’ll be schooling the public with a selection of holiday music. Some Pentagogical Brass members are retired educators; others are still happily brassing it up in the classroom. Together, they put on a classy show of horned instrumentals that will be music to your ears.

and get him back. 7p, $5565, Notoriety in Neonopolis Downtown Las Vegas, notorietylive.com

DEC. 1-10

COWBOY CHRISTMAS

A Las Vegas tradition since 1986, the Cowboy Channel Cowboy Christmas is the only official gift show of the Wrangler National Finals Rodeo, welcoming more than 240,000 attendees over the last four years. More than 350 exhibitors sprawl across 500,000 square feet of show floor, where you can find custom jewelry, art, furniture, home goods, and the best western wear and boots. 9a-4p daily, free, Las Vegas Convention center, nfrexperience.com

DEC. 4

WINTER WONDERFULNESS: NEVADA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

The Nevada Chamber Orchestra, directed by Gregory Maldonado, will get you in the holiday mood with its Winter Wonderfulness concert — a combo of classic nostalgic holiday tunes and new winter works. 3p, $10-15, Summerlin Library, nvchamberorchestra.com

DEC. 9

COSMIC SWIM WINTER WONDERLAND

Who says pool parties are only for summer? Enjoy a bright and festive night at this cosmic-themed aquatic experience, where bathers of all ages can be immersed in music and glow-gear, lighting up the pool with a green and red shimer. 7-9p, $5, Henderson Multigenerational Indoor Pool, cityofhenderson.com

DEC. 10

BOSSA CHRISTMAS

Brazilian singer Caro Pierotto uses her voice to share love and healing beyond the borders of genre, as her repertoire includes samba, forró, reggae, soul, and pop. She brings warmth to the holiday season in her new show, Bossa Christmas 3-4:15p, free, East Las Vegas Library, lvccld.bibliocommons.com

DEC. 10-11

MERRY GRINCHMAS AT HERITAGE BARK PARK

Although the Grinch certainly isn’t fond of the holiday season, or people, for that matter, he does have a soft spot for his equally furry friend and faithful dog, Max. Bring your pups to meet the Grinch at Bark Park for photos, treats, and pop-up agility courses.

10:30a-noon, $4 per pup in advance, $5 day-of (cash only), Bark Park in Heritage Park, cityofhenderson.com

LIGHT SHOW

72 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
• HOLIDAY GUIDE 2022 •
DEC. 11 FIVE TIMES THE BRASS
2p, free, West Charleston Library, lvccld. org

DEC. 12

CAROLS & ALES

Raise a pint with whateverandeveramen., a project-based choir that holds performances in art galleries, bars, parks, and — on the rare occasion — even churches and concert halls. For Christmas, you can hear them perform carols while enjoying a pint of craft beer from Lovelady Brewing at their Carols & Ales holiday event. 6:30-9:30p, $20, Lovelady Brewing Company, whateverchoir.org/schedule

CONSUMABLES

The way to the heart is through these delicious treats

GOURMET FUDGE

Inspired by memories of baking with her grandmother, Las Vegas confectioner

Julie Danner created a line of homemade fudge that includes innovative recipes, such as candy corn and dulce de leche.

It’s available in classic and special holiday flavors to accompany hot tea or cocoa. $10.99-29.99, juliesfudge.com

THROUGH JAN. 8 GLITTERING LIGHTS DRIVETHRU LIGHT SHOW

This Southern Nevada tradition welcomes about a quarter-million visitors annually, dazzling them on a 2.5-mile course with more than five million lights and 600 holiday displays. In its 22nd year, the drivethru light show will donate a portion of each ticket sold to Speedway Children’s Charities. 4:45-10:00p, $29-129, Las Vegas Motor Speedway, glitteringlightslasvegas.com

DEC. 1-4, 8-11, 15-31

(CLOSED CHRISTMAS DAY) MAGICAL FOREST AT OPPORTUNITY VILLAGE

The Magical Forest celebrates its 31st season of spreading holiday cheer to families and those in need. Every dollar spent at this outdoor winter wonderland will go to the organization’s disability programs and services. Rides, escape rooms, food trucks, shops, and games offer enough stimuli to keep even the most hot-chocolate-buzzed kids busy. 5-9p, for ticketing info see website, Opportunity Village – Oakey Campus, opportunityvillage.org/ magical-forest

FRESH-FRUIT

POPS

It’s never too cold for ice cream in the desert!

The Joy Pop Co.’s locally handcrafted pops, made of fresh, organically grown ingredients, warm the heart with memories of summer’s flavors.

$4-32, thejoypopco.com

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 73
• GIFT GUIDE •

DEC. 18

MUSIC OF THE BEATLES FOR KIDS: HOLIDAY CELEBRATION

Hosted by The Rock and Roll Playhouse, this event encourages the whole family to move, play, and sing while listening to hits with a Beatles-themed holiday twist. The Rock and Roll Playhouse aims to entertain and educate families, piquing them to explore their creativity and introduce an appreciation of iconic musicians in rock history. 12p, $15, Brooklyn Bowl Las Vegas, brooklynbowl.com

DEC. 18

WINTER SOLSTICE AT THE BIRD VIEWING PRESERVE

While migratory birds pass the winter in the south, enjoy their digs with a celebration of the solstice. Attendees will be invited to generate light, warmth, and spirit celebrating the dark and short days of the year by enjoying refreshments, strolling around the ponds and scenic trails, and making crafts. 12p, $10, Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve, cityofhenderson.com

DEC. 26

KWANZAA CELEBRATION

Ina Buckner-Barnette, aka the “Sunshine Storyteller,” wants au diences to leave her interactive performances feeling empowered. For this Kwanzaa Celebra tion, she’ll share international folktales through art, storytelling, and song, in a family-friend ly workshop format. 6-9p, free, West Las Vegas Library, lvccld.bibliocommons.com

DEC. 31

TIME OF YOUR LIFE FESTIVAL

Ring in the New Year at the ultimate Downtown Las Vegas dance party. Partygoers can revel in the final moments of 2022 with performances throughout the night by favorites such as Bush, Sugar Ray, and DJ Skribble. This event is 21 and up only.

6p, $50, Fremont Street

Experience hotel properties, vegasexperience.com

HORSEBACK RIDING

Wild West Horseback Adventures invites people to saddle up and get in touch with Las Vegas’ cowboy history. Participants can choose a western-style breakfast or country-style ranch house dinner, included in the tour. $120, wildwesthorsebackadventures.com

CAR RACING EXPERIENCE

Feel a little need for speed in an exotic, luxury car? You can pretend you’re a Busch brother for a day at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway with the Dream Racing experience, starting with a two-lap, 1.5-mile course. $99-4599, dreamracing.com

WELLNESS WORKSHOP

Yoga, chakra balancing, sound healing, and tea ceremony — all are part of Rooted Lounge’s weekly wellness and meditation classes, designed to help participants shed life’s stresses and realign their minds, bodies, and spirits with the rhythms of nature. $22, rootedlounge.com

CHOCOLATE TASTING

Ethel M’s Signature Chocolate Tasting turns chocolate lovers into chocolatiers, teaching them how chocolate is sourced and produced, how to identify flavors, and then create their own masterpiece. Adults can pair their chocolate with wine. $10 for children, $20 for adults,

74 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 • HOLIDAY GUIDE 2022 •
the wrapping paper; make a memory instead
EXPERIENCE • GIFT GUIDE
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SMASH SESH

After another year in this pandemic age (yes, we’re still there), we’ve earned the chance to vent some pent-up emotions. A session in one of Sin City Smash’s rage rooms lets you choose a weapon to smash, destroy, and wreak havoc on expendable items. $55-95, sincitysmash.com

ASSISTANCE LEAGUE OF LAS VEGAS THRIFT SHOP

Jingle bells are ringing for this organization whose signature program, Operation School Bell, provides essentials for children (K-12) giving them incentive to remain in school. Shopping their thrift store for holiday needs helps to fund free school supplies, free grocery stamps (which can assist with holiday food purchases), Christmas toy programs, gift cards for low income or single moms (which can help with presents), and Meals on Wheels. 702-870-2002 assistanceleague.org/ las-vegas

HOPE FOR PRISONERS

This charity was established to transform the lives of imprisoned Nevadans, but you just may be the one transformed when you get involved. Their 100 Christmases program is always seeking volunteers and donations. You can help set up 100 separate living rooms in one location, each with their own Christmas tree, presents, and dinner, allowing prisoners to reunite with their families for the day. 702-586-1371 hopeforprisoners.org

GOLDEN RAINBOW

PERSONALIZED SANTA MESSAGE

The world’s jolliest man is just a phone or computer screen away. Portable North Pole lets you give your child (and young-at-heart loved ones) a personalized call from Santa Claus himself. Five percent of online sales are donated to children’s hospitals, including UMC Children’s Hospital in Las Vegas. $5.99-39.99, portablenorthpole.com

HENDERSON EQUALITY CENTER

This charity offers volunteers and donors something to feel pride in this Christmas: helping to create an inclusive, welcoming environment for all members of the LGBTQ+ community and beyond. On December 18, the Center will be holding its Xmas Toy Drive, where participants get to help hand out toys. Corporate sponsorships and monetary donations are also encouraged both during the holidays and year-round. 855-955-5428 hendersonequalitycenter.org

ANIMALS

ALL VEGAS HORSES/L.E.A.N.

Look into the eyes of a horse, and you’ll understand why this charity strives for “a forever home, not just any barn.” By becoming one of their monthly donor sentinels, you can sponsor a specific horse, or your donation can be used as needed to help other horses. The organization has wish lists on its social media page, and sponsors can help deliver a holiday gift basket to their adopted horse.

FAMILIES FOR EFFECTIVE AUTISM TREATMENT (F.E.A.T.) OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

Add a little inclusion to your holidays by supporting this charity. F.E.A.T. will need both donations and volunteers to help host this year’s Christmas event, featuring a Christmas movie for kids; toys for the younger ones and gift cards for the older teens; dinner; and family photos. 702-368-3328 featsonv.org

HELP OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

Stuff stockings with hope this year by supporting HELP’s work connecting unhoused clients with services, allowing Las Vegans to find and stay in housing since 1970. Donate bikes, unwrapped gifts, and gift cards to the organization’s 24th annual toy drive, which partners with local radio station 98.5 KLUC. Flamingo location: 702-369-4357; Lake Mead location: 702-487-5665 helpsonv.org

DRESS FOR SUCCESS SOUTHERN NEVADA

A concrete way to “love thy neighbor,” Golden Rainbow provides affordable and accessible housing for men, women, and children who are HIV/AIDS-infected or affected. Mark your calendars for December

4: Ticket sales from the organization’s Ribbon of Life Holiday Spectacular, which offers attendees a red carpet, silent auction, benefit show, and afterparty, all go toward funding Golden Rainbow’s housing services. 702-384-2899 goldenrainbow.org

702-533-4656 leanhorses.org

HEAVEN CAN WAIT ANIMAL SOCIETY

For the 175,000-plus dogs and cats saved since this group was founded in 2000, heaven can wait but your generosity cannot. The Miracle on Eastern Avenue event, December 11-17, features an online fundraiser with auction items and more. 702-6554800 heavencanwaitlv. org

Dress for Success provides women with support services, give them professional attire, and assist them in growing personal and professional skills to help them thrive in and out of the workplace. It has stylists on staff, ready to curate closets with up to 10 free outfits per woman when they find employment. The organization also offers career coaches, résumé help, and practice interviews. It welcomes donations, as well as volunteers to sort and process clothing, year-round. 702-684-6412 dressforsuccess southernnevada.org

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 75

INDIGENOUSAF

This nonprofit focuses on Indigenous voices, culture, and identity through the arts. By raising and distributing funding around the community, IndigenousAF hopes to preserve Native American art and introduce it to the next generation. Visit its website to see all latest volunteer opportunities! iafinc.org

THE GARDEN FOUNDATION

What could be more personal than giving a gift made with love? Visit the Garden Foundation’s online store with Boxes of Sunshine, T-shirts, and handmade greeting cards to give back while also fulfilling your gift list, or stop by the Dig It! Coffee Company for a festive cup of joe and coffee stocking stuffers for loved ones. 702-488-7566 thegardenfoundationlv.org

FRIENDS OF RED ROCK CANYON

This group keeps the park in good condition for its three million yearly visitors. Nature enthusiasts can spend their Christmas break volunteering at the Visitor Center’s

VETERANS

information desk, helping with the tortoise habitat and hummingbird population, doing canyon cleanup and trail repair, removing graffiti, preserving Indigenous cultural sites, and maintaining trees and plants. The organization also welcomes monetary and gardening equipment donations. 702515-5360 friendsredrock.org

FORGOTTEN NOT GONE

This Black-owned organization inspires veterans to #GetOutTheDamnHouse to escape the isolation and loneliness that can come with returning home combat. The goal? Preventing veteran suicide and fostering community. Organizers host weekly bike rides for those struggling with PTSD (though all are welcome). Grab your bicycle and join them in Vegas’ MLK Day parade on January 16th. 702-706-5777, forgottennotgone.org

U.S. VETS LAS VEGAS

An excellent way to say, “Thank you for your service!” this charity allows you to serve those who have served us. U.S. Vets provides more than 330 beds of transitional and permanent housing, and their employment program helps more than 110 veterans return to the workforce every year. Volunteers are needed to serve and engage in fellowship at their meal events hosted during the holidays. 702-366-0456, usvets.org/locations/las-vegas

SPRINGS PRESERVE CHRISTMAS TREE RECYCLING PROGRAM

The Christmas Tree Recycling Committee has been a Southern Nevada institution for almost 30 years, helping Las Vegas avoid creating unnecessary waste by recycling old Christmas trees for free. Participate in this tradition by bringing your own tree to any of their many drop-off sites around the Valley or, for even greater convenience, you can get it hauled away and recycled for $25. 702-822-7700 or 702-895-3760

LEAH WILLIS DANCE ARTS

Committed to bring performance arts education to both Black and low-income youth, this organization teaches dance as a creative outlet. Its goal is to help students improve academically, learn valuable social skills, and foster a lifelong love of the arts. Volunteer positions include assistants and instructors. Supporters can make a one-time or continued donation on Leah Willis Dance Arts’ website. 702-929-7016 lifegoals.webnode.page

YOUTH NEVADA PARTNERSHIP FOR HOMELESS YOUTH

The It’s a Wrap Holiday Block Party enlists volunteers to wrap gifts for youth listed on their holiday wish list, located on NPHY’s website and social media. The community is welcome to donate their time, money, and items.

702-383-1332, nphy.org

SPREAD THE WORD NEVADA

This organization, which promises to “change lives one book at a time,” has distributed 6.7 million books since 2001. Donate one holiday book (or a batch of them) to give the gift of reading to local students.

702-564-7809, spreadtheword nevada.org

SERVING OUR KIDS FOUNDATION

No child should go hungry, especially over the holidays. This foundation, which serves 4,000 children at 105 schools each week, offers volunteers the chance to help pack and deliver food baskets for 100 families on Christmas Eve.

702-685-2626, servingourkids.org

PROJECT 150

Volunteers and donors help pack and deliver 2,000 holiday meal boxes and throw a Secret Santa party, where needy families’ wish lists are fulfilled.

702-721-7150, project150.org

76 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 • HOLIDAY GUIDE 2022 •
Challenger School offers uniquely fun and academic classes for preschool to eighth grade students. Our students learn to think for themselves and to value independence. Unmatched Academic Results! Come tour a campus and see for yourself! © 2022, Challenger Schools Challenger School admits students of any race, color, and national or ethnic origin. Desert Hills 410-7225 8175 West Badura Ave. Green Valley 263-4576 1725 East Serene Ave. Los Prados 839-1900 5150 North Jones Blvd. Summerlin 878-6418 9900 Isaac Newton Way An independent private school offering preschool through eighth grade Celebrating 60 years

her that she must be lying to try to get a warm hospital bed and a meal for the night: “I’ll never forget that. It was a hard thing to hear from somebody that works in a job like that.”

I just had a backpack stolen, and all my cold-weather gear was in that backpack … But someone came up to me — a friend, or acquaintance — and handed me a fleece pullover. That got me through the winter. So, we help each other, we really do. – Kelly, an unhoused Las Vegan and buddy of Santiago

KELLY’S STORY ILLUSTRATES how the unhoused oftentimes cope with exposure to extreme weather — by turning to other members of the community for an extra blanket, a shared umbrella, a spare fleece pullover. Charitable organizations also make efforts to ease the burden of extreme weather on the homeless population. A few of these groups, such as HELP of Southern Nevada, meet the unhoused where they are, going out on the streets and distributing items to help people survive exposure to the elements. “In (summer) survival kits, we are able to put burn cream, first aid kits, cooling fans, cooling towels, a tarp, giant water containers so that they can carry water with them,” says HELP’s Lacey. “In the winter kit, there would be blankets, beanies, scarves, gloves, underwear, socks.”

Other organizations focus on alleviating the root cause of heat- and cold-related illnesses by trying to prevent prolonged exposure to the elements in the first place. Catholic Charities of Southern Nevada, which has a shelter with 400 beds for local men, reports that it spent $5 million last fiscal year sheltering and providing services for 114,086 unhoused men in their emergency shelter. Catholic Charities’ Roberts also advocates for greater resources to prevent weather-related illness for the unhoused: “My job, I think more than anything, is to educate and inform, to help people understand what the issues are and why they exist. And then what we can do to help, and then what they can do to help, public or private … Part of our mission is we collaborate with others, so we’re not duplicating services.”

That collaboration extends to local elected officials, as well as other community organizations, such as The Salvation Army of Southern Nevada, which served 62,575 unhoused individuals last year. The Salvation Army offers 288 beds in its overnight

shelter, in addition to other spaces for veterans and LGBT individuals, as well as a day shelter for those looking to escape the elements. Unhoused people can come and cool off or warm up, hydrate, charge their phones, and rest.

The Shade Tree, a charity dedicated to helping women and children exclusively, provides clients with what it calls an “Inclement Weather Shelter,” where unhoused individuals can spend the night during the winter or the day during the summer months. These services are augmented by those of the Las Vegas Rescue Mission — the final of the big four charities clustered around Main Street — with space to shelter 284 unhoused individuals. These organizations are the first lifeline for people experiencing homelessness, and a crucial avenue for escaping the cold or extreme heat. “Just showing that compassion to be able to know where people are and meeting them where they’re at” is an important part of the process, says Juan Salinas, The Salvation Army of Southern Nevada’s director of social services.

These civilian-led charity organizations supplement the work being done by the City of Las Vegas and Clark County. The city’s Courtyard Homeless Resource Center provides 800 covered sleeping mats and a Recuperative Care Center, which treats medical issues not severe enough to justify keeping someone in the hospital — such as recovery from heat stroke. This 38-bed facility has helped 261 patients to date and is intended to be the middle ground between the hospital and the streets. This is in addition to what the county is doing to keep the unhoused from overheating or getting too cold. “Clark County opens up emergency cooling stations during the summer and emergency warming stations during the winter,” Lacey says. “If the temperature reaches a certain level, then these stations are activated.”

These emergency stations are located within senior and community centers, as well as nonprofit spaces, and offer water, air conditioning, and heat, depending on the weather. Clark County is also attempting to prevent homelessness before it begins by using its $1.25 million Eviction Diversion Initiative grant to stem new evictions. Announced October 12, these funds are aimed at reducing preventable evictions among Las Vegans at risk of homelessness.

On the broader state level, the Nevada ACLU plans on pushing for the implementation of a so-called “Right to Rest Act” during the 2023 legislative session.

If passed, it would establish a legal right for the unhoused to rest in public spaces, making Nevada one of the few states in the nation with such a law. Experts say a Right to Rest Act would affect how medical issues are treated in the homeless community. Nevada ACLU Policy Manager Lilith Baran says, “The reason this is helpful is, advocates and care workers are able to know where people are and where to find them. And if we’re moving people around all the time or forcing people to literally hide under the sewers and in drainpipes, it’s really hard to access care and help people with things like frostbite or heat exhaustion.”

Governor Sisolak’s office is also working on prevention, in the form of attempting to tackle extreme heat itself. Earlier this year, he appointed both a State Environmental Justice Team and an Extreme Heat Planning Team to generate recommendations and a plan to reduce the effects of climate change, particularly for marginalized Nevadans. Though tangible impacts from these two teams are yet to be seen, Averyt, the governor’s senior climate advisor and one of three people appointed to the heat team, says she hopes to see changes in the design and planning of urban communities that would make sure “we’re doing the best that we can to create resilience in our communities,

78 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022 COMMUNITY
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Continued from
“We can put people on the moon, we can intervene to save whole economic sectors during COVID. (Providing housing) is doable. It’s just a question of whether it’s important enough to people to do it.”
—Nicholas Barr

whether that’s how we build our buildings, where we build our buildings, (or) what kind of design features they might use, and integrating that in as we think about affordable housing as well.”

For many in the Las Vegas community, the prevailing attitude toward helping the unhoused escape the extreme heat and cold can be summed up in the words of HELP’s Lacey: “I just want to leave it better than I found it. And I believe that everyone in the community feels the same way.”

I see these guys in wheelchairs, or a woman with her legs cut off because she might have had gangrene, but she’s manually trying to go uphill with the wheelchair by hand. I don’t know why this has to be. Why do these people have to fight so hard to get a mechanical wheelchair? Why? It shouldn’t be like that for them.

WHILE MANY PEOPLE in Las Vegas are investing in solutions to extreme weather-related illnesses among the unhoused, forces are also working against progress — not all of them in our control. One such uncontrollable force is the climate. “The science is pretty clear, it’s getting hotter on average,” Averyt says. “And that’s going to continue to drive longer and more intense heat waves.”

Magnifying the issue is the valley’s continued population growth: The 2020 census showed that Nevada is the fifth-fastest-growing state in the country, with Clark County growing more than 16 percent over the last decade. UNLV’s Center for Business and Economic Research estimates Southern Nevada will welcome about 700,000 more residents by 2040, reaching a population of three million.

“More people are coming to live here, which means that we most likely will need to increase the infrastructure and housing and streets,” DRI’s Bandala says. “And the urban community will respond, which means that it’s very likely that we will see an increase of the urban heat island effect if we don’t do something about it.” Kopek, the architectural psychologist at UNLV, adds that the way the urban community is favoring dark, inorganic structures (which absorb and emit heat) is part of the problem. Kopec notes, “Las Vegas still seems to be doing what they were doing back in the ’80s, which is building freeways and strip malls that are fronted by giant parking lots … It’s a little sad, because it’s a city that is growing by leaps and bounds,

and it has the opportunities to be able to make better decisions.”

Though this urban growth has come with more homeless shelters, the shelter space is not keeping up with demand. It’s hard to estimate how many shelter beds the valley has — estimates range from 1,300 to 2,000 — but it’s clear that the number of beds, even at the higher end of that range, falls far short when compared to the number of unhoused individuals estimated by the PIT Count: 2,000 available sleeping spaces for over 5,645 people. In other words, more than half of unhoused individuals have nowhere to sleep during extreme heat and cold.

Yet another force working against the unhoused coping with heat- and cold-related illnesses is the Las Vegas Encampment Ordinance, Bill No. 2019-36, sponsored by Mayor Carolyn Goodman and passed by the City Council on a 5-2 vote in late 2019. Making it a misdemeanor to sleep on the streets in specific areas of the city when shelter beds are available, the law includes punishment of up to six months in jail or a $1,000 fine. “Those kinds of things are extremely detrimental for a lot of reasons,” says Baran of the ACLU, one of more than 300 organizations and individuals that opposed the ordinance. “One of them is that you can’t fine someone who already has no money. So, what ends up happening is you just do this cycle of predatory fines and fees, and then people end up in a lot worse place than they were in the first place.” These jail stays and fines go on a criminal record, making it even more difficult for the unhoused to regain housing and employment, thus exposing them to heat and cold for longer.

Las Vegas Metro’s aggressive booking tactics may also contribute to criminal records for the unhoused. The Nevada Current reported in 2020 that Metro’s booking data showed 204 people had been arrested and jailed for staying in a park after hours, and 53 were booked for misusing benches and shelters at bus stops. This has the effect of frightening the homeless population away from shady and rain-protected areas (bus shelters and parks) and forcing them into more dangerous locations, where they are vulnerable to the elements.

The cycle of arrest, incarceration, and release of the unhoused is costly in other ways, too. John Piro, the Clark County deputy public defender, speaking to the Review-Journal after the Encampment Ordinance passed in 2019, noted that it costs $170 per day to keep an inmate in detention at the county jail. UNLV’s Barr argues that this money, along with the taxpayer-provided funding for emergency room stays and ambulance rides because of

heat- or cold-related illnesses, would be better spent providing permanent housing for the homeless community. “We’re already paying for this stuff, but we’re just paying for really poor outcomes,” he says. “It’s cheaper, actually, to guarantee and provide housing. There are just some things that are complicated and expensive, but that are social goods that over the long term vastly repay their initial investments. And the bottom line is that, until we treat housing as a social good, and something that people deserve to have, we’re going to keep on having a problem.”

THE HOMELESS POPULATION is oftentimes the first category of people to face any kind of environmental suffering — they are exceptionally vulnerable to a changing climate. As such, Southern Nevada has a tough challenge in protecting this at-risk population. Reducing instances of extreme weather, treating and preventing the illnesses associated with extreme weather among the unhoused, and precluding the occurrence of homelessness in the first place are all strategies the local community has mounted. Though there is a long way to go, experts are mostly hopeful that the situation of the unhoused can and will get better. “I am very optimistic,” says Roberts of Catholic Charities. “We can’t do everything, but we can do something. Every one of us.”

Doing something about heat- and cold-related illnesses likely will involve stable housing as a first step, and that takes time, money, and political will. “We can put people on the moon, we can intervene to save whole economic sectors during COVID,” Barr says. “(Providing housing) is doable. It’s just a question of whether it’s important enough to people to do it. But it’s not going to be a problem that’s responsive to the dictates of a two-year political cycle; it’s going to require sustained effort over multiple administrations to get it done.”

Until then, the unhoused must continue to find ways to cope with hotter summers, longer heatwaves, and consistently cold and damp winters. They do what people have always done: turning to one another for support. Santiago, the unhoused man sitting outside of Catholic Charities, looks at his friend Kelly and smiles. “Some of us come prepared, and some of us scramble — but we don’t mind helping brothers out.”

EDITOR’S NOTE: Kelly, Lori, and Santiago, unhoused Las Vegans whom the writer interviewed in person, declined to give their last name for this story, to protect their and their families’ privacy.

DECEMBER 2022 . DESERT COMPANION | 79 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS
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GYPSUM RIDGE

In Desert Companion ’s (checks watch) 15 years (!) of publication, few topics have proven more consistently popular with readers than hiking. Our archives are a treasure trove of ideas about where to go for all types of outdoor walking pleasure, from the leisurely to the rugged. But you know what’s been missing? A nod to the folks who trod those places first, our Indigenous predecessors. So, we’re amending our recommendations with some advice for those who’d like to know how to honor the people who most accurately call Nevada home.

ENGLISH TRAIL NAME: GYPSUM RIDGE

We included this trek in our much-read March 2020 story, “Hikes After 5,” featuring trails that are so close to town, you can hit them on the way home from work. Running through former gold mining territory, this trail is a bit rough around the edges, but it offers spectacular panoramic views of the Strip. And because it’s shade-free, it’s best done in cool weather. There’s a little climb at the beginning, but it’s moderate overall.

HOW TO GET THERE: The trailhead is at the far west end of Wigwam Avenue, off Fort Apache.

DISTANCE: 4.1 miles

ELEVATION GAIN: 450 feet

ANCESTRAL TERRITORY OF:

Southern Paiutes

HISTORY LESSON: All of Nevada was, at one time, inhabited by Indigenous Peoples. This realization, and an understanding of colonization’s methods (genocide and theft) commonly leads to questions about reconciliation. What can non-Natives do today to, even in small ways, remedy the crimes of the past? Ecological stewardship is key to Indigenous sovereignty. You can help restore it by recognizing that Gypsum Ridge was once Indigenous territory and respecting the land accordingly.

STEWARDSHIP 101: Leave nothing, take nothing. Understand that all parts of an ecosystem play an integral role in the balance of life that exists in the natural world, and extracting any part can have severe consequences.

LEARN MORE: Educate yourself at lvpaiutetribe.com. ✦

80 | DESERT COMPANION . DECEMBER 2022
HIKE!
TAKE A
This suburban trail offers stunning views ... and the chance to up your stewardship game
SCOTT LIEN
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