Issue Five: where culture comes first
Heads up for culture Inside
MANCHESTER INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL PLUS THE LOWDOWN ON STAYING IN THE CITY THE LAKES COME ALIVE INCLUDING THE CULTURE LIST FOR ENGLAND’S NORTHWEST
PRIME SPOTS: England’s Northwest
COLOPHON
Prime is published by the Marketing Department of the Northwest Regional Development Agency. Issue five – April 2009. To register for future issues of Prime please visit www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com/culture or call 0845 600 6040. Prime is edited and designed by Hemisphere Design and Marketing Consultants. Printed by Gyroscope on paper manufactured using elemental chlorine-free pulp and woodpulp sourced from sustainable forests. Cover: Filter 2002, Antony Gormley, photography by Jan Cheblik. Contents: Carlos Acosta © Angela Taylor. Prime Cuts: P10 ‘Self-Portrait, 1986 by Andy Warhol, Tate, London; Kinderzimmer by Gregor Schneider, 2009, photography by Joel Chester Fildes; Petworth Window © Garry Fabian Miller, Courtesy of James Hyman Gallery, London. P12 Sol Le Witt Wall Drawing #1136, © The estate of Sol LeWitt, photography by John Wilson White. P15 Bach Hadid © Zaha Hadid Architects; Antony and the Johnsons © Don Felix Cerventes. P17 Red on Maroon, Mural Section 4 by Mark Rothko, Tate, © 1998 Kate Rothko Prizel & Christopher Rothko ARS, NY and DACS, London. P18 Johnathan Pryce © Gabriel Pryce; Sans Titre, 1934 by Dora Maar, Angels of Anarchy, Courtesy of Centre Pompidou, Paris. Essentials and Culture List: photography by Jonty Wilde and Jan Chlebik. Castlerigg Stone Circle © Dave Willis. All information correct at time of going to press but event information may change, so please check directly with venues for up-to-date information.
ACCOMMODATION RATINGS
All accommodation featured in Prime has been quality assessed by VisitBritain or the AA – look out for the star rating next to each establishment.
The number of stars gives you an indication of accommodation standard, cleanliness, ambience, hospitality, service and food. Generally, the more stars the higher the level of quality. GH: Guest House SA: Serviced Apartments
PRIME NUMBERS: Contents Have you cottoned on yet?
FEATURES:
If you’re into culture, you’d have to be living on another planet to not get wind of what’s been happening in England’s Northwest lately.
FIRST OFF:
The second Manchester International Festival finds the original modern city pushing the boundaries once again with two exhilarating weeks of original new work and performances.
PRIME LOCATIONS:
It’s not just football and shopping you know... Make the most of a weekend in one of the UK’s most dynamic and exciting cities.
PRIME CUTS:
Starting with the explosion onto the country’s cultural scene of the first Manchester International Festival in 2007, there’s been an ongoing barrage of reasons to check out what’s happening north of Watford. Liverpool’s year as European Capital of Culture may be officially over, but the city’s not taking its foot off the cultural pedal. On the banks of the Mersey, the new Museum of Liverpool is taking intriguing architectural shape, providing a glittering contemporary counterpoint to the city’s historic waterfront. In Cumbria, the amazing Lake District scenery is turning into one big outdoor performance space as a new festival, Lakes Alive, gives artists and performers the chance to do their thing against the backdrop of God’s own canvas. And in Manchester, the second Manchester International Festival promises to go in the same direction as Ken Kesey’s bus with an even more adventurous programme of new commissions and performances. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg in a region that’s been known for challenging the status quo in culture (and everything else you could care to mention) for the last 200 years. So try a change of cultural scenery: pack away your preconceptions and take a trip to England’s Northwest — where culture comes first.
Page 4 Perfect match...
Page 8 48 hours in Manchester…
Page 10 Events for summer &
autumn 2009
Who needs to head off abroad when there’s so much happening at home? There’s no shortage of great events in England’s Northwest this year to give you an excuse to visit.
THE ESSENTIAL LISTS:
Where to stay, what to see and do...
& Cumbria
THE CULTURE LISTS:
& Cumbria
PRIME SUSPECT:
Page 20 Manchester Page 26 Liverpool Page 32 Blackpool & Lancashire Page 34 Chester & Cheshire Page 36 The Lake District
Everything you need to know about museums, galleries, theatres and music venues...
Page 24 Manchester Page 30 Liverpool Page 33 Blackpool & Lancashire Page 35 Chester & Cheshire Page 38 The Lake District
Page 39 John Squire
The ex-Stone Roses guitarist turned artist tells us what makes Northwest culture great.
FIRST OFF:
Manchester International Festival 2009
Perfect match... There’s chemistry in the air in Manchester this summer as a range of artists and genres get it together for the city’s second international festival. After the barn-storming success of the inaugural festival in 2007, the second instalment promises to be an even headier brew of new work and one-off performances by some of the world’s leading creative minds. What festival director Alex Poots and his team seem to have cottoned on to is that interesting things happen when you explore what happens at the boundaries where artists and ideas meet. Take the huge success of Monkey, Journey to the West, which premiered at the 2007 Festival; who’d have thought that mixing an ex-Britpop musician and a comic book genius would create such a globally successful piece of circus theatre?
2009 sees yet more experimentation with intriguing genre collisions in a city that’s known for its appetite for pushing the boundaries. With 21 premieres in just 17 days, you can expect Manchester to be buzzing with theatrical performances, art installations, music, intellectual debates and much more besides. At the hub of all this frenetic activity you’ll find the impressive Festival Pavilion in Albert Square, a place that you can wander into at will for music, food, drink and conversation, whether you’re a ticket holder or not. Give it a whirl — there’s no telling who you might meet...
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Matches made in heaven... Surprising collaborations, beguiling match-ups, perverse partnerships — the Manchester International Festival have been acting as a mischievous matchmaker for 2009’s adventurous programme of events:
• Incisive filmmaker with problems sleeping WLTM mischievous experience manipulators for spooky ride through American culture. BAFTA award-winning director of The Power of Nightmares, the filmmaker Adam Curtis gets it together with theatre company Punchdrunk, of Mask of Red Death fame. Together, they turn a sixties office block into a multimedia haunted house, all to a musical soundtrack by Damon Albarn and the Kronos Quartet.
It Felt Like a Kiss 2–19 July, Spinningfields
• Theatrical wordsmith WLTM bubbly ex-barmaid with GSOH for a night out at the bingo. Sally Lindsay stars in Neil Bartlett’s new show set in the vivid world of Northwest bingo halls. The Royal Exchange’s famous in-theround auditorium will be transformed into a working bingo hall with audience members playing along as part of the action.
Everyone Loves a Winner From 3 July, Royal Exchange Theatre • Performance art provocateur WLTM open-minded audience for extraordinary four-hour artistic encounters. Stamina essential. Manchester’s Whitworth Art Gallery is giving itself over to a marathon performance art installation curated by the self-confessed grandmother of the form, Marina Abramović.
Marina Abramović presents... 3–19 July, Whitworth Art Gallery
• Uncompromising iconoclast, into variety of spatial concepts, WLTM old school tunesmith for intimate, 21st century baroque moments. International superstars of the built environment, Zaha Hadid Architects will be creating an installation cum chamber music recital hall in Manchester Art Gallery to cocoon a series of performances of JS Bach’s chamber works by instrumentalists Piotr Andereszewski, Jean Guihen Quyras and Alina Ibragimova.
JS Bach /Zaha Hadid Architects 3–18 July, Manchester Art Gallery
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• Pioneer of auto-destructive art WLTM 21 willow trees for starring role in environmental statement. Upturned willow trees with their branches set in concrete and their roots in the air is artist Gustav Metzger’s way of making a poignant sculptural point about how we take our surroundings for granted.
Flailing Trees by Gustav Metzger 3–19 July, Manchester Peace Garden
• Much Garland-ed singer-songwriter WLTM ageing Maria Callas-alike for operatic debut. Must be good at languages. Expect lush strings and sweeping melodies at the premier of Rufus Wainwright’s debut opera, which comes complete with a libretto in French. The action revolves around the story of a fading soprano as she tries to stage her comeback in the Paris of 1970.
• Seminal teutonic autobots WLTM loopy minimalist for musical experimentation and a couple of goes round the track. Must have own bike. Expect a tour-de force rather than a tour-de-france when Kratfwerk meet the master of minimal, composer Steve Reich, in the unusual setting of the Manchester Velodrome. Features the world premiere of Reich’s 2 x 5, directed by the man himself.
Kraftwerk ft Steve Reich 2 July, Manchester Velodrome
Prima Donna 10–19 July, Palace Theatre
• Other worldly avant-garde balladeer WLTM local chamber ensemble for illuminating musical moments. The extraordinary voice of Antony Hegarty gets a Manchester airing in two concerts with the 36-piece Manchester Camerata, featuring new orchestral arrangements of Antony and the Johnsons’ haunting repertoire performed in an evocatively-lit auditorium.
• Transformational rock ‘n’ roll animal WLTM hero-worshipping performance artist for walk on the wild side. Wedding ring an advantage. New York art über-couple, Lou Reed and Laurie Anderson, perform together for the first time in the UK in an intimate evening of music, stories, songs and poems.
Lou Reed & Laurie Anderson 18 July, Palace Theatre
Antony & the Johnsons 3–4 July, Manchester Opera House
For full programme and more information on the events mentioned visit www.mif.co.uk
• Collaborative artist with interest in political history WLTM members of the public to help him get in his stride. Into rambling. Expect a big juicy slice of social surrealism in Procession, an on-street performance piece from the Turner Prize-winning artist Jeremy Deller. This celebrated organiser of artistic ‘events’ tracing the connections between history and the present day is putting on a 21st century reinvention of the traditional street procession down one of Manchester’s most famous thoroughfares.
• 151-year-old classical band WLTM other laid-back local musos for heartstirring orchestral performance. Black tie not essential. Mercury Prize-winning local heroes Elbow get it together with the original Manchester band – the UK’s oldest professional symphony orchestra, founded by Sir Charles Hallé in 1857. These two evenings of sumptuous orchestral arrangements of Elbow’s own material and other classics will be one of the festival’s hot tickets. Expect surprise special guests too.
Procession by Jeremey Deller 5 July, Deansgate
Elbow & the Hallé 8–9 July, The Bridgewater Hall 7
PRIME LOCATIONS: 48 hours in Manchester Getting here
Cultural enlightenment
All that jazz
Take the super speedy Pendolino trains up the West Coast mainline and you can get from London to Manchester in just over two hours. Trains from Glasgow take a bit longer, clocking in at just under four hours, Newcastle is just under three and Birmingham just under two. There are frequent scheduled flights into Manchester Airport from most UK airports, plus a number of low-cost airline options to boot. Plan to arrive for 7-ish so you’ve got time to check in before a leisurely introduction to the Manchester nightlife.
After breakfast, head off for a bit of culture at one of the city’s numerous museums and galleries. There’s quite a diverse selection, ranging from top quality art and sculpture (including a new Antony Gormley piece) at Manchester Art Gallery (10) and fascinating exhibits at the Museum of Science and Industry (11) to the more individual and quirky offerings such as Urbis (12), devoted to all things relating to urban culture, and the contemplative Chinese Arts Centre (13).
Later on you can find out why Manchester’s nightlife is justifiably famous. Funakademia at One Central Street (21) is a good Saturday night bet, with fantastic old-school funk classics, or if your prefer your music live, head into the Northern Quarter to Matt and Phred’s (22), an intimate jazz club which always has something on worth listening to.
A place to lay your head If you fancy a bedroom in the clouds you can head for the Manchester Hilton (1) in the sleek new Hilton tower, the tallest residential building in the UK. Alternatively you can try the Radisson Edwardian (2), a sensitive transformation of the city’s old Free Trade Hall that has kept a lot of the building’s original character. Around Petersfield there’s also a number of good self-catering options to choose from including Staying Cool (3) and the Blue Rainbow Aparthotel (4). At the Piccadilly end of town, there’s a good range of places to lay your head (see the Essentials for more details), with the Velvet Hotel (5) on Canal Street being the newest kid on the block.
Shaken or stirred Whether you’re staying there or not, take the lift up to the 23rd floor Cloud Bar at the Hilton for a cocktail with a view – on a clear evening you can see as far as the Lancashire coast. No shortage of quality restaurants to choose from nearby – the Grill on the Alley (6) is a good place to be seen, or for impressive British cooking in a canalside setting try Albert’s Shed (7) or Choice (8) down at Castlefield. For something lighter, try Evuna (9) on Deansgate for authentic tapas and a superb selection of Spanish wines.
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A spot of lunch After your cultural morning you can either lunch in situ (the galleries and museums have all got noteworthy cafés too) or head off to the café hot spots of Canal Street or the Northern Quarter. Alternatively, aim for Exchange Square and start off an afternoon of retail therapy with a trip to the 2nd floor brasserie at Harvey Nichols (14) or choose from a great selection of counter eating options in Selfridge’s funky food hall (15).
Out to brunch After a lie-in, head to the Northern Quarter where brunch is undergoing a bit of a Mancunian reinvention at independent bars and cafés such as Trof (23), Odd (24) and Oklahoma (25). To really push the boat out, try the Sunday special at one of the area’s authentic curry houses – it normally involves a slow-cooked lamb dish made to mother’s special recipe that‘ll set you up for the week!
Bohemian browsing
From Exchange Square you can head down the shop-lined New Cathedral Street towards St Ann’s Square (16) and King Street (17), taking in Armani to Zara and everything inbetween. Manchester Arndale has undergone a major revamp, with a host of new stores, including the UK’s second largest Top Shop. The city has also rediscovered markets in a big way – there’s a year-round programme of themed outdoor markets, ranging from the inevitable continental options to the more unusual fashion market.
For some quirky retail therapy, take a wander round the Northern Quarter’s warren of independent shops and galleries, including vintage clothing emporia such as Rags to Bitches (26) and the area’s famous selection of specialist record shops. Find unique jewellery and clothing pieces at the Manchester Craft and Design Centre (27) and the Richard Goodall Gallery (28) does a great line in art, photography and music memorabilia. If you get peckish try the Bread and Butter Café (29) where they serve sensational home-made cakes, or Cup (30) part of the empire of local music legend Mr Scruff, where the offerings include fantastic pies and an array of funky teapots.
On stage
Take in the view
Retail therapy
Make Saturday night a bit of a performance. You can catch a concert at The Bridgewater Hall (18) or experience the UK’s first theatre in the round at The Royal Exchange (19), where every notable British thesp from Tom Courtney to Helen Mirren has trodden the boards. You can also take the 20-minute tram ride out to The Quays to catch what’s on at The Lowry (20) which could be anything from comedy and ballet to musical and theatrical performances.
Blow away the cobwebs with a tram ride out to The Quays, where you can add in more cultural brownie points with a saunter round the Lowry galleries or the thought-provoking exhibitions at Imperial War Museum North (31). Alternatively, take the 40-minute train journey to Liverpool, where you can see the world’s second most famous waterfront (after Manhattan’s) and grab some extra culture at Tate Liverpool and the Walker Art Gallery. 9
PRIME CUTS: MAY–NOVEMBER Events this summer & autumn Highlights of what’s on across England’s Northwest
Until 10 October
David Nash: Sculpture Installations Blackwell, The Arts & Crafts House, Cumbria and Abbot Hall Gallery, Kendal T: 01539 446139 W: blackwell.org.uk T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
Renowned for tactile sculptures made of wood from fallen trees, David Nash’s work is always vitally connected to the nature and environment of its site. The lawn of the beautifully-restored Art & Crafts house at Blackwell will be a fitting backdrop for two of his sculptures, whilst Abbot Hall’s installation comprises sculptures and drawings from his entire working period to date. Until 23 May
Until 31 May
When we are married
French Impressionists
Everyman Theatre, Liverpool T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
Lady Lever Art Gallery, Wirral T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/ladylever
J.B Priestley’s classic comedy gets a makeover from West Yorkshire Playhouse Artistic Director Ian Brown with a cast including tabloid bait-turned-credible thesp Les Dennis, plus Polly Hemingway and Tom Georgeson. Until 30 May
Plastic Culture: Legacies of Pop 1962–2008 Harris Museum & Art Gallery, Preston T: 01772 258248 W: harrismuseum.org.uk
Part of Japan UK 150, this poptastic exhibition looks at the cultural impact of 1960s Pop Art, including the influence of Japan in the world of contemporary art. Includes work by Andy Warhol, Cindy Sherman, Machiko Edmundson and Mariko Mori. Until 31 May
Fashion v. Sport Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
On tour from the V&A, this exhibition explores the remarkable relationship between contemporary fashion and global sportswear brands that manages to turn a pair of trainers into a must-have fashion item.
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Gem of an exhibition featuring impressionist treasures by the likes of Renoir, Monet, Degas and Rodin. A great excuse to visit the Lady Lever, with its magnificent collection of 18th and 19th century paintings. Until 31 May
George Always: Portraits by Maggi Hambling Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Liverpool celebrates one of its most characterful sons, the jazz performer, writer and critic, George Melly whose larger-than-life persona is captured in this series of drawings, paintings and portraits by his great friend, the artist Maggi Hambling. Until 31 May
Kinderzimmer Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester T: 0161 275 7450 W: whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
First major UK commission for ages from the international art world’s current hot property, the Golden Lion award-winning German artist Gregor Schneider. His vast darkened nursery
Until 1 November
installation in the Whitworth’s south gallery is deliberately unsettling, with echoes of repressed childhood and a chilling sense of nursery rhymes gone wrong.
The Beat Goes On World Museum, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4393 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/wml
Until 20 June
Liverpool celebrates its contribution to all things pop, from the Cavern to Creamfields, in this exhibition featuring an impressive wealth of material from record companies and various private collectors.
Garry Fabian Miller: Time Passage Abbot Hall Gallery, Kendal T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
One of the most progressive figures in fine art photography, Fabian Miller creates powerful ‘camera-less’ images. He works in the darkroom by exposing light directly onto photographic paper through organic materials and substances such as plants, oil and water, creating unique images that have no negatives.
Until 6 September
Until 27 September
Until 25 July
State of the Art: New York
Text Festival
Urbis, Manchester T: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.uk
Local Hero, Football Legend: The Life & Times of Sir Tom Finney
Various venues, Bury W: textfestival.com
The interesting boundary where innovative poetry and conceptual art meets is the territory explored by this 12-week programme of events. Features exhibitions, public art commissions, publications and performances by internationally recognised practitioners and some of the newest talents in the field. Art as poetry or poetry as art? Your choice...
9–10 May
Gtterdmmerung Weekend The Bridgewater Hall, Manchester T: 0161 907 9000 W: halle.co.uk
It’s taken a while to discover its place in the city’s cultural firmament, but Manchester’s ‘city centre’ has finally found its groove. This latest exhibition is the first in a series focussing on the art scene in different cities across the world. It starts by mining the rich creative vein that is New York, giving UK audiences their first look at the work of a new generation of contemporary artists.
National Football Museum, Preston T: 01772 908 442 W: nationalfootballmuseum.com
Preston’s place in the history of football is given another plug in this exhibition celebrating the life and career of the city’s god-like genius of the pitch, Sir Tom Finney, one of greatest footballers ever.
The fourth and final part of Wagner’s ambitious Ring cycle is spread over two consecutive nights in this musical marathon by the Hallé Orchestra under its Music Director Sir Mark Elder, one of the world’s foremost Wagnerian interpreters. 13–16 May
Futuresonic Various venues, Manchester W: futuresonic.com
Achingly-hip festival based on themes of sonic and visual arts, digital culture and social interaction that aims to illuminate us on future trends in modern culture. Artists include Kode9, Anti-Pop Consortium, Ariel Pink, Murcof, Jóhann Jóhannsson, Marnie Stern and Daedelus. You’ll either have your mind expanded or you’ll feel depressingly old. 11
23 May–30 August 2009
Lakes Alive 09 Venues throughout Cumbria W: lakesalive.org
Lakes Alive is a series of outdoor events combining the magic of street art with the jaw-dropping scenery of Cumbria’s lakeland surroundings – imagine Cirque du Soleil against a mountain backdrop and you’ve got a bit of an idea what to expect. Below is just a taster of what’s in store, starting with the launch programme in May. Visit the website for the latest information. 13–17 May
23–24 May
Keswick Mountain Festival
Arley Horse Trials and Country Fair
Various venues, Keswick T: 017687 75738 W: keswickmountainfestival.co.uk
Here’s a chance to have a go at all those adrenaline-pumping activities that you’ve never tried before. Learn to climb, scramble and canoe, or for the hardier souls, there’s the Keswick triathlon to test your mettle. The associated programme of talks includes one by Olympic rowing star, James Cracknell. 16 May
Philip Glass Royal Northern College of Music, Manchester T: 0161 907 5555 W: rncm.ac.uk
Rare opportunity to see one of the contemporary music world’s most admired and influential composers in performance. The programme features the recent Etudes for Piano as well as classics from his extensive repertoire presented on solo piano, giving an unusual insight into the lyrical intricacies of his music. 16–17 May
Blackpool Pride North Pier, Blackpool Promenade T: 07926 116584 W: prideblackpool.com
Get it on with Cheshire’s horsey set at one of the region’s loveliest country estates. There’s show-jumping, dressage and even a spot of medieval jousting by the aptly-named Knights of Middle England. 23 May–January 2010
Captured: The extraordinary lives of Prisoners of War Imperial War Museum North, Trafford T: 0161 836 4000 W: iwm.org.uk/north
Find out the truth behind all those movie myths – Steve McQueen and co. had nothing on the remarkable tales of endurance, friendship, tragedy and survival that feature in this major exhibition about the lives of prisoners of war and civilian internees in Europe and the Far East during the Second World War.
23–31 May
Reach for the Sky:
The Lakes Alive 09 programme launches with a free, week-long festival of spectacular live aerial performances. 23 May WOW — Windermere on Water
24 May–20 September
The Glebe, Bowness on Windermere
Videogame Nation
Live outdoor entertainment with the Argentinian aerial acrobats Voala, performing against a glorious lakeshore backdrop.
Urbis, Manchester T: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.uk
24 May The Banquet
22–25 May
Believe it or not, videogames have now been around for over 40 years and this timely exhibition at Urbis traces their journey from geek’s bedroom to multimillion-pound industry. Even if you don’t know your Manic Miner from your Mario, you’re in for a thrilling interactive experience.
Hungry Pigeon Festival
French performance troupe Transe Express turn the streets of Carlisle into a public banquet, including a spectacular finale where aerial drummers create a vast human mobile.
30 May Corazon de Angeles
26 July Dance Daze
29 May–13 September
Town centre, Penrith
Colour Chart : Reinventing Colour, 1950 to Today
25 May Castles in the Air
The Harbour, Whitehaven
Northern Quarter, Manchester W: seetickets.com & ticketline.co.uk
Performers flying high above the harbour tell the story of a magical wedding.
Festival of street and contemporary dance.
Town centre, Penrith
30–31 May Zirkcus Plus
Many towns and cities celebrate lesbian and gay culture but few places do it with such gusto as Blackpool, with a riotous weekend of over-the-top fun and frolics, with artists, events and the prerequisite parade.
Urban street festival over the Bank Holiday weekend where Manchester’s creative quarter gets to strut its stuff with a feast of bands, speakers, art exhibitions, fashion markets, circus acts, face painters and poets. The 5,000 capacity outdoor stage will bring the streets alive with headliners such as Nine Black Alps and Karima Francis.
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Arley Hall & Gardens, Cheshire W: arleyhallandgardens.com
Tate Liverpool T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool
Originally shown at MOMA in New York, this exhibition explores the role of colour in art and design, from the post war years to the present day. Includes works by more than forty artists, including Ellsworth Kelly, Andy Warhol, Gerhard Richter, Frank Stella, Yves Klein, Richard Serra, John Baldessari, Dan Flavin and Damien Hirst, to name but a few.
City centre, Carlisle
The 100-strong Castellers de Vilafranca from Catalonia build breathtaking ‘human castles’, up to seven and eight stories high. 29 May Walk to the Stars The Quays, Maryport
Street theatre, circus and surprises, culminating in a death defying double high wire walk by Sky Productions from France.
Barrow Park, Barow-in-Furness
15–16 August Once upon a Summer’s Eve Crow Park, Derwentwater, Keswick (15) Curwen Park, Workington (16)
Two days of the best in new circus with over 20 acts from around the world both outdoors in the park and in a specially erected Big Top.
The Alice in Wonderland story done with outdoor performers and installations.
11 July Shall We Dance?
Mintfest
Egremont Castle, Egremont
Magical open-air ball in the ruins of the castle.
28–31 August Various venues, Kendal
See listing on page 18 for more details. 13
2–19 July
Manchester International Festival 2009 Venues throughout Manchester T: 0844 815 4960 W: mif.co.uk
Here’s a snapshot of what’s on offer at Manchester’s second festival of firsts. For more details, see the feature on page 4 or visit the festival website, but be warned – tickets went on sale from mid March so some of the more popular events may be sold out. Get ‘em while it’s hot! End May
Dream: The Big Art Project Sutton Manor, St Helens W: bigartsthelens.com
Situated on a former colliery site just by the M62, this 20m sculpture is part of the Channel 4 Big Art Project and will be the UK’s latest piece of landmark art. Designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa, Dream stands as tall as the Angel of the North and is destined to become a gateway feature. 12–14 June
Concerts in the Forest Delamere Forest, Northwich, Cheshire T: 01842 814612 W: forestry.gov.uk/delamerehome
If you go down to the woods today, you’re in for a big surprise – a series of atmospheric outdoor concerts, this year featuring Paul Weller, Doves and Katherine Jenkins. 17–27 June
The Pianist Royal Exchange, Manchester T: 0161 833 9833 W: royalexchange.co.uk
This hit show from the 2007 Manchester International Festival returns to the intimate surroundings of the Royal Exchange Theatre. Best known as an Oscar-winning film by Roman Polanski, this is the remarkably evocative story of one man’s time in the Warsaw Ghetto during the Nazi Occupation. End May
Reopening of Clitheroe Castle Clitheroe, Lancashire T: 01200 424568 W: visitlancashire.com
Clitheroe is Lancashire at its most urbane, with designer boutiques, gourmet food shops and Michelin-starred restaurants. But what keeps it real is its gem of a castle, looking down over the quaint lanes with an air of history, as well as providing the perfect gardens to wander round on a sunny afternoon. The £3.5 million refurb has restored the castle’s medieval keep as well as creating new exhibition spaces in the museum, plus a new glazed entrance complete with shop and cafe. 14
25 June
Chaplin’s City Lights Philharmonic Hall, Liverpool T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com
FESTIVAL INCLUDES: It Felt Like a Kiss
2–19 July Spinningfields Documentarian Adam Curtis meets Punchdrunk Theatre Company with music by Damon Albarn
Kraftwerk & Steve Reich
2 July Manchester Velodrome Tour-de force by the electronic wizards plus Steve Reich premieres a new work
Marina Abramović presents...
3–19 July Whitworth Art Gallery Epic and provocative group show exploring the crossroads of visual art and performance
JS Bach/Zaha Hadid Architects
3–18 July Manchester Art Gallery Music meets architecture with exquisite chamber recitals in a unique environment
Everybody Loves a Winner
From 3 July Royal Exchange Theatre Iconic theatre gets transformed into a working bingo hall for this new play by Neil Bartlett
Antony and the Johnsons
3–4 July Opera House Performing with the 36-piece Manchester Camerata in new arrangements of his songs
Flailing Trees by Gustav Metzger
3–19 July Manchester Peace Garden Art Installation presents 21 inverted willow trees as a comment on the brutalisation of nature
Procession by Jeremy Deller
5 July Deansgate A Mancunian tradition gets a modern makeover with this all-embracing free event by the Turner Prize-winning artist turned march organiser
Elbow and the Hallé
8–9 July The Bridgewater Hall Manchester’s oldest band and one of its most recent success stories get it together
Carlos Acosta
9–11 July The Lowry The dance superstar tackles one of ballet’s most challenging works
The classic silent film gets the live orchestra treatment from the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic under conductor Carl Davis who has restored Chaplin’s original score.
Prima Donna by Rufus Wainwright
26–27 June
Laurie Anderson & Lou Reed
Chester Races Weekend The Roodee, Chester T: 01244 304600 W: chester-races.co.uk
Everything a race event should be – top level gee-gees, fabulous outfits and lots of bubbly. Fancy a flutter?
10–19 July Palace Theatre Premier of the new opera by the Canadian songmeister
18 July Palace Theatre First UK joint appearance by the New York art world’s power couple
Amadou & Mariam & the Beating Wing Orchestra
7–8 July The Pavilion Theatre The Malian superstars perform with musicians from Manchester’s migrant communities
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2–18 July
7 July–2 September
31 July–16 August
Chester Summer Music Festival
John Squire: Heat, Light, Death and Industry
Lake District Summer Music Festival
Gallery Oldham, Oldham T: 0161 770 4653 W: galleryoldham.org.uk
Various venues, Cumbria T: 0845 64421 W: ldsm.org.uk
Various venues, Chester T: 0845 241 7868 W: chesterfestivals.co.uk
Annual classical music bonanza, which this year features a major gala concert in Chester Cathedral to commemorate the life of past music director Richard Hickox. 4–19 July
The Three Shires Textile Festival Various venues, East Cheshire W: textilefestival.com
Two weeks devoted to everything textile taking place at the point where Cheshire, Staffordshire and Derbyshire meet.
The Stone Roses guitarist has something of a resurrection as a successful contemporary artist with this exhibition of his latest work.
Rigoletto
A chance to experience great chamber music in glorious settings, this year’s festival has the Northern Chamber Orchestra performing a big Haydn Gala celebration, plus concerts by the Chilingirian Quartet and renowned pianist Nelson Goerner.
Clonter Opera Theatre, Congleton, Cheshire T: 01260 224514 W: clonteropera.com
1 August
An indoor opera theatre surrounded by beautiful woodland, this is Cheshire’s equivalent of Glyndebourne – the perfect way to spend a summer’s evening.
Tatton Park, Cheshire T: 01625 374400 W: tattonpark.org.uk
18, 21, 23 & 25 July
20–26 July
24:7 Theatre Festival Various venues, Manchester T: 0845 408 4101 W: 247theatrefestival.co.uk
As the city where the UK’s first rep theatre was established in 1908, Manchester has a passion for all things theatrical. This weeklong festival features a series of innovative and original performances taking in place in a variety of unusual venues. Guaranteed to throw up some real gems. 22–26 July
RHS Show Tatton Park Cheshire T: 0844 209 1810 W: rhs.org.uk/tattonpark
Now in its 11th year, this annual horticultural bonanza is one of the must-sees of the UK’s annual gardening calendar. 24 July–5 September
Rank Grundy Art Gallery, Blackpool T: 01253 478170 W: blackpool.gov.uk/grundyartgallery
Exhibition that examines how artists from the Renaissance to the present day have represented the idea of social order, with works ranging from Holbein to Richter.
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Hallé Fireworks & Light Spectacular One of the biggest and best of the ‘summer concert in a stately home’ vernacular, featuring the on-form Hallé in gorgeous surroundings. Pack a picnic. 17 August–17 September
Pennine Lancashire Festival of Food & Culture Various venues around East Lancashire T: 01254 688040 W: penninelancashirefestivals.com
Celebration of all things foodie with events ranging from culinary canal cruises and pony trekking picnics to steam train lunches, champagne balloon flights, ale trails and brewery tours. Includes the famous World Gravy Wrestling Championship – seriously. 21–31 August
Manchester Pride Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 236 7474 W: manchesterpride.com
Ten-day festival that is one of the country’s biggest and best Pride celebrations. 28–31 August
Mintfest Various venues, Kendal W: mintfest.org or lakesalive.org
International festival of street art and theatre, with over 200 performers from around the globe descending on this Lakeland market town, bringing its streets and parks alive for three days of madness and mayhem. 17
29–30 August
23–27 September
2 October–21 March 2010
Opening 2010
Creamfields
Abandon Normal Devices (AND) FACT, Liverpool T: 0151 707 4444 W: andfestival.org.uk
Mark Rothko: The Seagram Murals
Museum of Liverpool
Daresbury, Halton, Cheshire W: creamfields.com
It wouldn’t be August Bank Holiday without Creamfields, the UK’s biggest dance festival. Big it up for this year’s line-up, which includes Basement Jaxx, Dizzee Rascal and Mylo.
Inaugural festival of all that’s new in cinema and digital culture that debuts in Liverpool for 2009 but with plans to expand to other cities and locations across the region in 2010. Expect boundaries to be pushed...
4 September–8 November
Blackpool Illuminations Blackpool Promenade W: visitblackpool.com
The biggest free light show on earth has been pulling in the crowds since 1879, but you’ll be pleased to hear it’s had a serious makeover since then, with events now including the more contemporary Festival of Light and the World Firework Championship which culminates with a spectacular grand final on 2 October. Best way to enjoy the spectacle is to grab a bag of chips and hop on an open-top tram along the promenade. 25 September–13 December
Flashback: Bridget Riley
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26 September–10 January 2010
Angels of Anarchy: Women Artists and Surrealism Manchester Art Gallery, Manchester T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.org
For this blockbuster exhibition, Manchester Art Gallery has assembled a range of work by some of the world’s most important women surrealists, including heroine artists such as Frida Kahlo, Lee Miller and Meret Oppenheimer. Expect a host of linked events and activities to help you explore the connections with Manchester’s heritage of female radicalism, from Mrs Gaskell to the Pankhursts and beyond.
Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
2–31 October
First in a series of exhibitions bringing together outstanding early works by high profile British artists, and setting them against major recent pieces. Begins with the abstract painter Bridget Riley.
Everyman Theatre, Liverpool T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
The Caretaker Former Everyman alumnus Jonathan Pryce returns to Liverpool to play Davies in Harold Pinter’s masterpiece.
Pier Head, Liverpool W: liverpoolmusuems.org.uk/mol
Tate Liverpool T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool
Liverpool’s year as European Capital of Culture may be over but the biggest piece of its legacy jigsaw is to be found taking shape down at the Pier Head as a head-turning new piece of contemporary architecture makes its presence felt next to the historic Three Graces.
A Mark Rothko exhibition is always an event, but this one is extra special for Tate Liverpool as The Seagram Murals were part of the gallery’s original opening back in 1988. Famously commissioned for a swanky restaurant in the Seagram building in New York, Rothko withdrew the paintings and gave the commission money back after deciding that it wasn’t a suitable venue for viewing art. 3 October–July 2010
Darwin: in the Evolutionary City Manchester Museum, Manchester T: 0161 275 2634 W: museum.manchester.ac.uk
21–24 October
Manchester’s contribution to the worldwide series of Darwin anniversary events is fitting on so many levels, not least that its taking place at the Manchester Museum, which was originally founded in the 1880s specifically to promote what was then the incredibly controversial Darwinian view of evolution. This major exhibition will look at his life and the impact and legacy of his theory, from the evolutionary example of the Manchester moth (that evolved its markings to blend into the city’s soot-blackened 19th century brickwork) to the darker side of Darwin and the taboo subject of science vs faith.
The Lowry, Salford Quays T: 0870 787 5780 W: thelowry.com
Matthew Bourne’s Dorian Gray Oscar Wilde’s gothic fable becomes a darkly seductive black fairytale told in dance by master storyteller Bourne. End October
Re-opening of the People’s History Museum People’s History Museum, Manchester T: 0161 236 5725 W: phm.org.uk
Re-opening after a full-revamp and major extension, the People’s History Museum couldn’t be anywhere else but Manchester.
The original radical city makes a fitting home for collections which include the labour movement’s national archive and a treasured collection of marching banners that are testament to both cause and craft. 21–22 November
Kendal Mountain Festival Various venues, Kendal, Cumbria T: 01539 725133 W: mountainfilm.co.uk
Festival devoted to all things vertical, from film, books and art to photography, humour and drama. This internationally-renowned crag-hoppers convention attracts top adventurers, climbers, writers and filmmakers from around the world.
Setting out to do for Liverpool what the Guggenheim did for Bilbao, the Museum of Liverpool is the city’s 21st century statement – about itself, its heritage and its future ambitions. With over 8,000 sqm of public space, it is the biggest newlybuilt national museum in the UK for over a century, and the first ever in the world to be solely devoted to the history, character and people of a regional city. But then Liverpool does exert a global significance that few cities can match. From its impact on world trade and the opening up of America, to its huge influence on the world of popular culture, it’s a place that gleefully wears its heart on its sleeve. Come 2010 it will also have a superb new venue in which to show off its remarkable heritage and share its unique outlook on life with the world.
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THE ESSENTIALS: Manchester
Manchester’s looking up, both figuratively and literally. There’s a buzz about the place that means it’s as vibrant and immediate as any European capital, with shards of steel and glass beginning to pierce the sky as Manchester comes over all Manhattan.
GETTING HERE
The city’s now the ideal destination for the cosmopolitan weekender, but its contemporary attitude is still mixed with the down-to-earth humour and a genuine, no-nonsense approach to life that you’d expect in the city that’s consistently shown that there are no limits to its imagination and its ambition.
By train
If you can, make a trip for the Manchester International Festival, when the city’s streets and squares will be a riot of activity, but, whenever you visit, the city’s rich selection of museums, galleries and theatres mean you’ll never be short of things to see and do.
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By plane
One of the top 20 airports in the world, you can fly into Manchester from over 200 worldwide destinations. There’s a direct half hourly rail service into the city centre that takes about 20 minutes or alternatively you can take a cab for the approximate nine-mile trip. On the west coast mainline service from London to Glasgow – services are frequent so one of Mr Branson’s Pendolinos will get you to Manchester from London in just over two hours. There are frequent direct trains from Manchester to Liverpool, so you can sample a bit of what both cities have to offer without too much difficulty.
By road
Manchester’s at the centre of the extensive Northwest motorway network so it’s easy to get at from all sides of the country. London’s about a three-hour drive and you can nip down the M62 to Liverpool, just 35 miles away, in no time at all.
GET THE INFO… W: visitmanchester.com T: 0871 222 8223
PLACES TO STAY
Hilton Manchester
ABode Manchester
Velvet Manchester
The Lowry Hotel
303 Deansgate M3 4LQ T: 0161 870 1600 W: hilton.co.uk/manchester
107 Piccadilly M1 2DB T: 0161 247 7744 W: abodehotels.co.uk/manchester
2 Canal Street M1 3HE T: 0161 278 1000 W: velvetmanchester.com
50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf M3 5LH T: 0161 827 4000 W: thelowryhotel.com
Manchester’s first five star hotel is actually located on the Salford side of the river Irwell, where the clean white exterior of one of Rocco Forte’s landmark hotels fits perfectly against the sweeping curves of Santiago Calatrava’s Trinity Bridge. All the comfort and mod cons you’d expect, plus a luxury spa and the opportunity to spot the celebs who’ve been performing at the nearby MEN Arena as they hang out in the chic riverside bar after their gigs.
Radisson Edwardian Free Trade Hall, Peter Street M2 5GP T: 0161 835 9929 W: radisson.com
Five star luxury in one of Manchester’s landmark historic buildings. Built originally as a paean to the principals of free trade and democracy, the Free Trade Hall spent most of its life as a concert venue, being both the home of the Hallé Orchestra and the place where the Sex Pistols played a memorable gig. Its reincarnation as a contemporary hotel has been handled sensitively, with the musical theme pervading its suites, restaurants and bars.
Cast your eye over Manchester’s evolving cityscape from Beetham Tower, the gleaming glass edifice that punctuates the city skyline. The bottom half is given over to the Hilton Manchester, whose cool, Scandinavian-esque look and top-notch facilities bagged it a place on Condé Nast Traveller’s hotlist for 2007. Take the trip up to the lush cocktail bar on the 23rd floor for giddying panoramic views over the city and the countryside beyond.
The Midland Hotel Peter Street M60 2DS T: 0161 236 3333 W: qhotels.co.uk
This stately red brick edifice is Manchester’s traditional landmark hotel, dating from 1903. A Grade II-listed building, it’s been brought up to date for the 21st century, ensuring that every luxury is readily available, whilst still keeping its stately sense of history.
Crowne Plaza 70 Shudehill M4 4AP T: 0161 828 8600 W: cpmanchester.com
Shiny new modern hotel which is in a great location, right on the edge of the Northern Quarter and very conveniently located for Exchange Square, Urbis and ideal if you’re attending an event at the Arena. The on-site restaurant, the Glasshouse comes highly recommended too.
This chic, contemporary refurbishment of a Victorian cotton merchant’s warehouse is the latest addition to chef Michael Caines’ hotel empire. The eponymous MC restaurant on the hotel’s lower floor has had the city’s gastronomes raving since it opened.
City Inn Manchester 1 Piccadilly Place, 1 Auburn Street M1 3DG T: 0161 228 0008 W: cityinn.com
If you like your hotels simple, stylish and contemporary then the City Inn is an ideal choice. It’s in a very handy location, connected by a curving footbridge to Piccadilly station, with a great restaurant where, weather permitting, you can dine al-fresco. Try a cocktail or two in the comfy booths in the bar.
Malmaison Manchester Piccadilly M1 1LZ T: 0161 278 1000 W: malmaison.com
Housed in a Grade I-listed Edwardian warehouse, this smart and somewhat theatrical hotel has all the touches you’d expect from a Mal. Well located near Piccadilly station and close to Canal Street, the interior is all rich colours, plush carpets and velvet cushions, producing a suitably seductive mood for cocktail hour.
Awaiting inspection
Situated at the more chilled end of Manchester’s gay village, Velvet has been one of Canal Street’s best destinations for food and drink for over a decade. The new addition of 19 New York loft-style bedrooms in the adjacent Velvet Hotel means you don’t have far to walk home.
The Place Hotel SA 1 Ducie Street, Piccadilly M1 2TP T: 0161 778 7500 W: theplacehotel.com Conveniently located apartment-hotel, next to Piccadilly railway station. A conversion of one of Manchester’s typical red-brick warehouses, it has retained many original Victorian features although not at the expense of comfort and contemporary style.
Staying Cool
SA & Castlefield, Manchester Central and Cathedral Quarter T: 0161 832 4060 W: stayingcool.com
These chic, serviced apartments are located in a number of good spots across the city and provide boutique self-catering accommodation with first class hotel-type services. Each one is individually designed with great attention to detail and you even get an Elle Decoration-style lowdown on all the design features should you take a fancy to the soft furnishings. 21
PLACES TO EAT
Mr Thomas’s Chop House
PLACES TO DRINK
THINGS TO SEE
Wheel of Manchester
Chill Factore
MC Restaurant
52 Cross Street M2 7AR T: 0161 832 2245
Peveril of the Peak
Manchester Town Hall
127 Great Bridgewater Street M1 57Q T: 0161 236 6364
Albert Square M60 2LE T: 0161 234 5000
Exchange Square M3 1BD W: worldtouristattractions.co.uk
Trafford Way, Trafford Quays M41 7JA T: 0161 749 2222 W: chillfactore.com
OK, so it might not be quite the size of the London Eye, but you still get a fabulous view over the city from this 60m-high big wheel.
The UK’s first complete Alpine ski village looks like it landed from outer space on the edge of the M60. You can ski, board, tube or just have a snowball fight at the country’s longest real snow indoor ski slope, followed by the full-on après-ski experience in a myriad of bars and restaurants.
ABode Hotel, 107 Piccadilly M1 2DB T: 0161 247 7744
This eponymous venture from Michael Caines, the two-starred Michelin chef, has upped the city’s dining ante with its sublime modern British cooking. Recently had rave reviews from The Guardian’s notoriously hard-to-please food critic, Jay Rayner
Harvey Nicks Brasserie 21 Cathedral Street M1 1AD T: 0161 828 8888 W: harveynichols.com
The second floor of this shopping mecca offers great brasserie food, plus an awardwinning restaurant with panoramic views over Exchange Square.
Yang Sing 34 Princess Street M1 4JY T: 0161 236 2200
Frequently cited as the best Chinese restaurant in Europe, this Manchester institution has a vast 300-dish menu – the best plan is just to say ‘feed me’ and let them bring you the day’s specialities.
Grado New York Street, Piccadilly M1 4BD T: 0161 238 9790
Albert’s Shed Eastgate, 20 Castle Street M3 4LZ T: 0161 839 9818 W: albertsshed.com
Situated right next to the picturesque Castlefield canal basin, this predominantly Italian restaurant is a good choice for alfresco dining in the summer. Bizarre name comes from the owner of the tool shed that once occupied the site.
Earth Café 16–20 Turner Street, Northern Quarter M4 1DZ T: 0161 834 1996
Housed in the Manchester Buddhist Centre, this vegan-friendly café is a haven of peace and tranquillity. The fresh juice combinations are full of positive karma but the wheatgrass shots are a bit of an acquired taste.
Ning 92–94 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter M4 1LJ T: 0161 238 9088
This offering from Lancashire gastropreneur Paul Heathcote is a surprisingly authentic tapas bar and restaurant with a wine list of over 100 Spanish specialities. Muy bien.
A funky addition to the Northern Quarter restaurant scene, Ning serves a fantastic range of fresh and aromatic South East Asian food. Reckoned by some to have the best Pad Thai this side of Bangkok.
The Modern
Grill on the Alley
Urbis, Cathedral Gardens M4 3BG T: 0161 605 8200 W: themodernmcr.co.uk
Dine in style at the top of the city’s signature exhibition centre, Urbis. If you just want to enjoy the bird’s eye view there’s an achinglycool cocktail bar where you can while away a Martini or two.
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One of the best wine lists in town, all the better to wash down the exemplary English food which yes, does include chops. Stonking portions so make sure you arrive hungry.
Ridgefield, (just behind Deansgate) M2 6EG T: 0161 833 3465
Seriously up-market steakhouse where you can dine on specially-massaged Kobe beef or choose your own lobster.
The Briton’s Protection
Feast your eyes on this gothic glory that is a testament to Victorian civic pride. Wonderful arched ceilings and mosaic floors with symbolism built into every stonework cornice and stained glass window. Doubles as the Houses of Parliament in many a TV drama.
50 Great Bridgewater Street M1 5LE T: 0161 236 5895
Chethams School of Music
This gem of a pub is well worth seeking out. The splendidly tiled green exterior is matched by the splendid ales on offer inside.
Historic pub with an epic whisky selection where you can rub shoulders with the Hallé’s brass section as they nip out the back of The Bridgewater Hall for an interval half.
NoHo Stevenson Square, Northern Quarter M1 1FB T: 0161 236 5381 W: noho-bar.com
This quirky independent is set in a roomy Grade-II listed building with parquet floors and floor to ceiling windows. Street art splashed walls and good cocktails.
Castlefield
The area that started the Manchester café bar scene is still home to some of its best, particularly if you want to sit outside and enjoy the view.
Canal Street The UK’s original gay village is still one of the most exciting areas of the city, with a range of bars and cafés running along the canalside. Northern Quarter
By day it’s the place to shop for hip vintage clothing, vinyl and crafts, by night it’s got a range of individualistic bars, from the laid-back quirkiness of Odd and Trof to the sophisticated mixology of Walrus and the hard-to-find Socio Rehab (it’s on Edge St).
Long Millgate M3 1SB T: 0161 834 9644
Originally founded in the 15th century, this remarkable collection of buildings is one of Manchester’s hidden jewels. It’s got a 17th century quadrangle that wouldn’t look out of place in Oxford or Cambridge, a medieval banqueting hall and the oldest library in the English-speaking world.
John Rylands Library 150 Deansgate M3 3EH T: 0161 306 0555 W: manchester.ac.uk/library
One of the real gems of Manchester’s architectural history, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the John Rylands building was an elaborate church rather than a library. This fantastic Grade I-listed piece of Victorian high gothic has recently undergone a £16.8m refurbishment, creating a new state-of-theart visitor centre to enhance access to its rare and fascinating collections.
Chinatown George St, Charlotte Street
The third largest Chinatown in the world outside China (just behind San Francisco and Vancouver). Have a browse through fascinating shops, supermarkets and Chinese bakeries – best day to visit is Sunday when the Northwest Chinese community descend en masse to shop and eat dim sum.
The Quays
W: thequays.org.uk
Hop on one of Manchester’s distinctive trams for a trundle out to The Quays – just 15 minutes outside the city centre and you’re in a whole different landscape of big water, big skies and big buildings, including The Lowry and Imperial War Museum North.
THINGS TO DO Northern Quarter
Colloquially known as Manchester’s creative quarter due to its concentration of designers, artist and musicians, it may not be the ritziest part of the city centre but it’s certainly one of the most interesting. A stroll around the quirky streets will reward you with eclectic record shops, vintage and specialist clothes stores, bohemian bars and eateries. Also home to the Manchester Craft and Design Centre, the Manchester Buddhist Centre and the Manchester institution that is Afflecks. Definitely not mainstream.
Exchange Square
A shoppers’ haven with Harvey Nichols, Heals and Selfridges all within a stiletto’s totter of each other. There’s a number of handy eateries, such as Zinc Brasserie and Manchester’s favourite noodle bar, Tampopo, plus the quirky Future Systems’ design of Selfridges’ food hall houses a variety of differently-themed food counters to perch at for a chilled glass of wine and a mid-retail therapy bite-to-eat.
Guided walks T: 0871 222 8223
Discover the city’s secret corners with a range of guided walks that take you everywhere from up the Town Hall bell tower to down below the city streets tracing the history of the Rochdale canal. There are topic-driven options too, including a tour devoted to Mancunian inventions and one to the history of the city’s radical politics.
THINGS TO BUY
Old and obscure vinyl, vintage clothing, Manchester United memorabilia, designer labels.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… Afflecks 52 Church Street M4 1PW T: 0161 834 2039
Marked by the fabulous Tom Judd illustrations outside, this otherwise unprepossessing building houses a rabbit warren of alternative shops and stalls, selling everything from skateboards and fetish gear to vintage clothing and records.
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THE CULTURE LIST: Manchester ART GALLERIES
Urbis
Manchester Art Gallery
Cathedral Gardens M4 3BG T: 0161 605 8200 W: urbis.org.uk
Mosley Street M2 3JL T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.org
England’s Northwest’s Large Attraction of the Year 2008 shows off the wealth of Manchester’s artistic legacy, including its famous collection of Pre-Raphaelites and a great collection of modern pieces. A new sculpture by Antony Gormley adorns the light filled atrium.
The Lowry Pier 8, Salford Quays M50 3AZ T: 0870 787 5780 W: thelowry.com
A high-impact, landmark building that is perfectly set against the vast water and sky background of The Quays at Salford. The Lowry is a whole day out in itself – you get art galleries, two theatres, a gift shop and several restaurants, not to mention the tram ride out there.
Whitworth Art Gallery The University of Manchester, Oxford Road M15 6ER T: 0161 275 7450 W: whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
Great collection of art and design, from watercolours, prints, drawings, modern art and sculpture, including the largest collections of decorative textiles and wallpapers outside London.
Chinese Arts Centre Market Buildings, Thomas St M4 1EU T: 0161 832 7271 W: chinese-arts-centre.org
This national showcase for Oriental culture is a great place to catch exhibitions by Chinese artists. The centre’s chilled-out tea shop also provides a little haven of peace and tranquillity in the creative hubbub of the surrounding Northern Quarter.
Cornerhouse 70 Oxford Street M1 5NH T: 0161 200 1500 W: cornerhouse.org
The best place in the city for contemporary art, sculpture and photography, the Cornerhouse also houses a three-screen arthouse cinema, a fine bar and a welcoming, easy-going café. 24
This flagship Manchester building sits imposingly in the lovely Cathedral Gardens like a rearing, glass-skinned serpent. Gallerycum-exhibition centre-cum-arts venue, Urbis is described as ‘the city centre’, reflecting its focus on different aspects of urban culture from around the world.
MUSEUMS MOSI (Museum of Science and Industry) Liverpool Road, Castlefield M3 4FP T: 0161 832 2244 W: mosi.org.uk
As you would expect in the city that kick started the Industrial Revolution, this museum is full of fascinating insights into England’s industrial history and also boasts a great collection of planes, trains, cars and steam engines. A planned £60m refurb, called Revolution Manchester, will see both spaces and exhibits enhanced and updated over the next few years.
Imperial War Museum North The Quays, Trafford M17 1TZ T: 0161 836 4000 W: iwm.org.uk/north
The UK’s first building by Daniel Libeskind, IWM North is a real attention-grabber – more like architecture as environmental sculpture. Located on the opposite bank of The Quays to The Lowry, this is another building that uses its waterscape backdrop to sensational effect. On the inside, its thought-provoking exhibitions have won it a prestigious national silver award in the Enjoy England tourism awards 2007.
Manchester Museum Oxford Road M13 9PL T: 0161 275 2634 W: manchester.ac.uk/museum
Part of Manchester University, the museum covers all the ‘ologies’ from archaeology to zoology. The original building was the work of Alfred Waterhouse, architect of Manchester Town Hall, with the 2003 refurbishment undertaken by Ian Simpson, architect of Urbis and the new Beetham Tower.
THEATRES
Greenroom
MUSIC VENUES
Royal Northern College of Music
The Royal Exchange
54–56 Whitworth Street M1 5WW T: 0161 615 0515 W: greenroomarts.org
MEN Arena
124 Oxford Rd M13 9RD T: 0161 907 5377 W: rncm.ac.uk
St Ann’s Square M2 7DH T: 0161 833 9833 W: royalexchange.co.uk
Make sure that the Royal Exchange is on your itinerary, if not for one of the consistently top-notch theatrical performances, then just to take in the jaw-dropping, dramatic interior that was once the trading floor of the city’s Cotton Exchange. Good craft shop too.
The Library Theatre St Peter’s Square M2 5PD T: 0161 236 7110 W: librarytheatre.com
The handsome rotunda of Manchester’s Central Library houses a surprise in its basement – the oldest repertory theatre company in the UK. Focussing mainly on contemporary and sometimes provocative works, the theatre also attracts some interesting touring productions.
Contact Oxford Road M15 6JA T: 0161 274 0604 W: contact-theatre.org
Remodelled in 1999, this architecturally madcap building looks almost Gaudi-esque. With a stated mission of catering for the 13–30 age group, the theatrical product veers towards the cutting edge and contemporary, with regular club nights and laid-back DJs.
This hip, experimental performance space is tucked away underneath the railway arches. Consistently avant-garde productions and another good spot for café bar lounging, with regular DJs in the foyer space.
Palace Theatre Oxford Road M1 6FT T: 0161 245 6600 W: livenation.co.uk
The major venue in Manchester for touring West End productions, this is a classic example of the grand temples to variety that were built in the Victorian era – all gilded statues and red plush seating.
Opera House Quay Street M3 3HP T: 0161 828 1700 W: livenation.co.uk
Slightly smaller sister venue to the Palace, this is another traditional theatre venue, veering more towards opera, ballet and one-off comedy or musical shows.
The Lowry Pier 8, Salford Quays M50 3AZ T: 0870 787 5780 W: thelowry.com
The Lowry’s two performing spaces provide a strong mix of music, ballet, opera, theatre and comedy.
Victoria Station M3 1AR T: 0871 226 5000 W: men-arena.com
The largest indoor arena in Europe, this is the place to catch the Kylies and Justins of this world on their latest blockbusting tour.
This first-rate musical conservatoire is the place to catch the classical stars of the future, as well as an eclectic mix of classical and contemporary artists.
Manchester Apollo
Academy 1,2 & 3
Stockport Rd, Ardwick Green M12 6AP T: 0161 273 6921 W: livenation.co.uk
Oxford Road M13 9PR T: 0161 275 2930 W: manchesteracademy.net
This big old converted cinema is the venue for those comedy and music gigs that are too big for the Academy and not yet big enough for the MEN Arena.
The three spaces at this University-based venue provide a sliding scale of size to suit wherever a band currently sits on the path from anonymity to fame, or vice versa.
The Bridgewater Hall
Roadhouse
Lower Mosley Street, Petersfield M2 3WS T: 0161 907 9000 W: bridgewater-hall.co.uk
Opened in 1996, the Hall is one of Europe’s best venues for classical music and home to not one but three orchestras: the Hallé (Britain’s oldest professional symphony orchestra), the BBC Philharmonic and the Manchester Camerata. Also good for topnotch visiting international orchestras and soloists, plus a complementary programme of non-classical, jazz and world music artists.
8 Newton Street M1 2AN T: 0161 237 9789 W: theroadhouselive.co.uk
One of Manchester’s great survivors, this intimate basement venue has been around since Oasis and The Verve were doing their first gigs. A standard stop on any up-andcoming, NME-rated band’s touring itinerary.
Matt & Phred’s 64 Tib Street M4 1LW T: 0161 831 7002 W: mattandphreds.com
Ronnie Scott’s in miniature, this atmospheric Northern Quarter institution is where you can hear jazz of the highest order on most nights well into the early hours.
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THE ESSENTIALS: Liverpool
After its year in the artistic spotlight as European Capital of Culture, Liverpool has entered 2009 with a renewed sense of optimism and self-confidence. A swathe of new hotels, a major new shopping area, a new arena and convention centre — 2008’s frenzy of regeneration and artistic activity has resulted in both a rejuvenated city centre and a permanent uplift in Liverpool’s cultural aspirations. Architecturally, Liverpool is a city of statement and grandeur — it boasts more Georgian terraces than Bath and the imposing Victorian warehouses of the city centre are finding new life as boutique hotels and fine restaurants. On top of that, the city centre is surprisingly compact and easy to get around, and you’d need a heart of stone not to be enchanted by its willfully irreverent wit and bowled over by the warmth of the Liverpudlian welcome. 26
GETTING HERE
PLACES TO STAY
Radisson SAS Liverpool
Malmaison Liverpool
By plane
Hope Street Hotel
107 Old Hall St L3 9BD T: 0151 966 1500 W: radisson.com
7 William Jessop Way, Princes Dock L3 1QZ T: 0151 229 5000 W: malmaison-liverpool.com
The Scandinavian owned Radisson SAS is an ocean liner of a building looking out over the Mersey. It’s very Scandinavian in feel as well – cool design on the inside and a light-filled atrium doubling as a bit of an art gallery.
Racquet Club
Overlooking the Mersey, this recently-opened new kid in the Malmaison stable is the company’s first purpose-built building. It’s an elegant addition to the city’s iconic waterfront architecture and has all the features you would expect, from the plush ambience of the interior and the ‘place to be seen in’ bar and brasserie.
Hargreaves Building, 5 Chapel Street L3 9AG T: 0151 236 6676 W: racquetclub.org.uk
PLACES TO EAT
Liverpool’s John Lennon Airport is situated just eight miles south of the city centre, with flights to and from many major European cities and an express bus operating to take you into the city centre.
By train
Mainline intercity services run into Liverpool Lime Street station from all over the country.
By road
Take the westbound M62 off the M6 motorway and it takes you straight into Liverpool city centre. It is also an umbilical cord joining Liverpool to Manchester, only 35 miles away.
GET THE INFO… Tourist Information Centres
Liverpool Visitor Centre Whitechapel L1 6DZ Albert Dock Tourist Information Centre Anchor Courtyard L3 4AF Liverpool John Lennon Airport Tourist Information Centre Arrival Hall South Terminal L24 1YD Visitor information: T: 0151 233 2008 W: visitliverpool.com Accommodation enquiries: T: 0844 870 0123 W: visitliverpool.com
40 Hope St L1 9DA T: 0151 709 3000 W: hopestreethotel.co.uk
Hope Street is a bit of a cultural hub – this elegant Georgian thoroughfare joins the city’s two cathedrals and along its length you’ll find a concert hall (the Philharmonic), a theatre (the Everyman) and a slew of bars and eateries. The hotel sits half way along it, a building dating from the 1860s that was converted into ‘Liverpool’s first boutique hotel’ in 2001. In the intervening time it has won numerous awards for its cool minimalist chic, impeccable service and classy ambience and was voted one of the 50 coolest hotels in the world in 2006 by Condé Nast Traveller.
Hard Day’s Night Hotel Central Buildings, 41 North John Street L2 6RR T: 0151 236 1964 W: harddaysnighthotel.com
No prizes for guessing the inspiration behind this new four-star hotel just along the way from the Cavern Club. A refurb of a classic city centre Grade II-listed building, the hotel has an on-site restaurant, bar and art gallery, all featuring specially commissioned artworks celebrating the lives of the Fab Four. There’s even an all-white Lennon Suite complete with white piano if you fancy a weekend bed-in.
A club devoted to racquet sports may not be the first place that springs to mind as a place to stay, but the eight individuallystyled rooms in this refurbished Victorian gentleman’s club are generous and comfortable. The on-site Ziba restaurant is also an eating destination in its own right.
62 Castle Street 62 Castle St L2 7LQ T: 0151 702 7898 W: 62castlest.com
Another revamped Victorian edifice in the heart of Liverpool’s city centre, this bijou boutique hotel is well-located for both the business district and the famous Liverpool nightlife. Its 20 generously-sized suites are equipped with all mod-cons, and the ground floor houses Room restaurant and bar.
Alma de Cuba St Peters Church, Seel Street L1 4BH T: 0151 702 7394 W: alma-de-cuba.com
The place to be seen for the style-conscious, this Cuban/Miami/carnival inspired bar and restaurant serves up crafted cocktails and elegant eats in one of the city’s oldest churches, with many of the original features incorporated into the new design.
60 Hope Street 60 Hope St L1 9BZ T: 0151 707 6060 W: 60hopestreet.com
Established gastronomic destination on the Hope Street cultural corridor set over three floors of an old Georgian townhouse. Famed for its seafood and its signature dessert of deep fried jam sandwich with Carnation milk ice cream. There’s also a more informal café/ bar bistro in the basement.
Simply Heathcotes Beetham Plaza, The Strand L2 0XJ T: 0151 236 3536 W: heathcotes.co.uk
This sophisticated modern eatery is the Liverpool link in the culinary empire of renowned Lancashire chef, Paul Heathcote, the man who made black pudding sexy.
The London Carriage Works 40 Hope St L1 9DA T: 0151 705 2222 W: tlcw.co.uk
Part of the uber-chic Hope Street Hotel, the restaurant has attracted rave reviews, including being voted one of the top ten restaurants outside London in the 2005 Harden’s Guide and the 2007 Taste of England Northwest award. Apparently named when construction workers discovered the original sign in the stonework above the entrance during the refurbishment.
Everyman Bistro 5–9 Hope Street L1 9BH T: 0151 708 9545 W: everyman.co.uk
A bit of a Liverpool institution, the basement bistro beneath the Everyman Theatre has always been a gathering place for local creative types, attracted to the slightly bohemian ambience and the hearty portions of the fabulous home-made food. It’s great for veggies and the puddings are a special treat.
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The Monro
HoSt
The Blue Bar and Grill
THINGS TO SEE
92 Duke Street L1 5AG T: 0151 707 9933 W: themonro.com
31 Hope Street, Liverpool L1 9HX T: 0151 708 5831 W: ho-st.co.uk
Edward Pavilion Albert Dock L3 4AE T: 0151 702 5830 W: blue-venue.co.uk
St George’s Hall
Named after a Georgian trading ship, this old man’s boozer has been transformed into a top-notch gastropub, with an emphasis on quality organic British food. Robust menu featuring rabbit pie, Cheshire wild boar, Lancashire ostrich and Welsh buffalo.
Asian fusion food comes to Liverpool in the very cool guise of this funky new restaurant from the people behind 60 Hope Street. Contemporary design, trendy lighting and a mean duck gyoza are all good reasons to check it out.
Another achingly cool place to drink and dine down at Albert Dock, with a balcony overlooking the waterfront and a high celebrity count.
Ziba
Roses Tea Rooms
Racquet Club, 5 Chapel Street L3 9AG T: 0151 236 6676 W: racquetclub.org.uk
23 Milner Rd, Heswall, Wirral CH60 5RT T: 0151 342 9912 W: rosestearooms.co.uk
Numerous awards and a place in the Good Food guide are just some of the things that Ziba has going for it. Named after a Liverpool tea clipper, this classy modern British restaurant in the Racquet Club has quietly established a great reputation for its nosh.
Some people will travel miles for a good cream tea, and a trip over the river to Heswall is well worth it to visit this award-winning gem of a cafe whose exquisite sandwiches and scones are said to rival the Ritz’s.
The Quarter
PLACES TO DRINK
The Philharmonic
Babycream
36 Hope Street L1 9BX T: 0151 707 2837
7 Falkner Street L8 7PU T: 0151 707 1965
Relaxed Italian-style bistro-cum cafe, just round the corner from the Liverpool Phil. Pavement tables look out across the wellfilmed Georgian cobbles of Faulkner Street, which has featured as a film set in many a BBC period drama. The menu covers everything from laid-back lunches to coffee, cake and Sunday brunch – apparently even Yoko Ono stopped by for pizza on her last visit to the city.
Delifonseca 12 Stanley Street L1 6AF T: 0151 255 0808 W: delifonseca.co.uk
A little hidden gem – a foodie cornucopia in the city centre that is the place to go if you have a serious cheese fetish. The restaurant is worth a visit too – the chef is ex-London Carriage Works so expect good things.
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Atlantic Pavilion, Albert Dock L3 4AE T: 0151 709 7097 W: babycream.co.uk
Joint venture between restaurant group Lyceum and the legendary Cream club empire, this is described as a DJ restaurant – i.e. you get ambient lounge live DJ sets thrown in with your trendy bar and dining experience.
PanAm Britannia Pavilion Albert Dock L3 4AE T: 0151 702 5840 W: panam-venue.co.uk
At night the Albert Dock puts on its coolest threads and metamorphoses into the place for Liverpool’s glammed-up crowd. PanAm is one of the main hangouts for the hip and trendy, a classy bar-restaurant with huge bay windows that look out to the Liver Building in the distance.
Korova 39–41 Fleet Street L1 4AR T: 0151 709 7097 W: korova-liverpool.com
Trendy, independent bar, part-owned by Liverpool band Ladytron, that sets itself out as ‘a music-focused venue enveloped in cutting edge design and illustration.’ There’s a bar and ‘canteen’ and the club in the basement showcases live music from established acts and up-and-coming bands.
Not the Hall, but the staggeringly ornate pub across the road, which boasts the only gentleman’s toilets in the country that a lady may visit – they’re listed. Despite being definitely olde-worlde, this temple to Victorian exuberance attracts a lively mixed crowd that gives an indication of the level of affection it commands – John Lennon famously complained that the price of fame meant ‘not being able to go to the Phil for a drink’.
Ye Crack 13 Rice Street L1 9BB T: 0151 709 4171
For the antitheses of Albert Dock-style bar chic, head for this legendary boozer, yet another place where John Lennon used to drink when he was at art college. Full of Liverpool character, with a great range of beers.
William Brown Street L1 1JJ T: 0151 233 2008 W: visitliverpool.com
A £23m restoration programme has given a superb facelift to what many consider to be the finest neo-classical building in Europe. St George’s certainly has buckets of presence, standing proudly at the centre of the city like a temple to Liverpool’s mid-19th century wealth and ambition. Inside, the massive Great Hall is resplendent with gilded plasterwork and ornate chandeliers, plus a renowned Minton tiled floor.
Three Graces Pier Head, North of Albert Dock T: 0151 233 2008 W: visitliverpool.com
Together, the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building create one of the most recognisable waterfronts in the world. Officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Albert Dock Albert Dock L3 4AF W: albertdock.com
This collection of restored Grade I-listed warehouses is home to many of Liverpool’s museum and heritage attractions, including Tate Liverpool, Merseyside Maritime Museum and the new Slavery Museum.
Turning the Place Over Cross Keys House, Moorfields W: biennial.com
Commissioned by Liverpool Biennial in 2007, this remarkable sculpture by artist Richard Wilson consists of an 8m diameter section cut from the facade of a city centre building that rotates in three dimensions. Check it out on You Tube where videos of the piece in motion have received over 750,000 hits.
Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral
THINGS TO DO
Cathedral House, Mount Pleasant L3 5TQ T: 0151 709 9222 W: liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk
T: 0151 330 1444 W: merseyferries.co.uk
Irreverently known as Paddy’s Wigwam by locals, the relatively modern (1967) Metropolitan Cathedral stands at one end of the aptly-named Hope Street that connects it with its Anglican counterpart.
Liverpool Cathedral 6 Cathedral Close, St James Mount L1 7AZ T: 0151 709 6271 W: liverpoolcathedral.org.uk
There’s nothing small about Liverpool’s Anglican Cathedral. Largest cathedral in the UK, 5th largest in the world, highest gothic arches in the world, UK’s largest church organ – the list goes on.
Antony Gormley’s Another Place Crosby Beach, Crosby W: visitliverpool.com
Antony Gormley’s series of 100 life-sized iron ‘men’ spread over 3km of sandy beach initially started off as a temporary installation. But, like the Angel of the North in Gateshead, the figures have taken on such iconic status on this beautifully windswept landscape that a fundraising campaign has successfully made them permanent. A great example of good public art at its most affecting.
Sefton Park Palm House Sefton Park L17 1AP T: 0151 726 2415 W: palmhouse.org.uk
This Grade II-listed Victorian glasshouse is the centrepiece of one of the largest public parks in England. It’s open to the public so you can spend a relaxing afternoon wandering around the tropical greenery. Occasional jazz and lunchtime concerts too.
Mersey Ferries Gerry and the Pacemakers have a lot to answer for. Take a trip across to look back at the famous waterfront from across the river and just see if you can stop yourself singing ‘that song’ – it’s practically impossible.
Knowsley Safari Park Prescot, Merseyside L34 4AN T: 0151 430 9009 W: knowsley.com
So what if you haven’t been to one since you were a kid? Having your windscreen wipers manhandled by monkeys is still as much fun as it always was…
Speke Hall Speke, Merseyside L24 1XD T: 0151 427 7231 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Just down the road from Liverpool’s John Lennon Airport, this wonderfully-preserved half-timbered house dates from the 15th century and is surrounded by beautiful gardens and woodland.
THINGS TO BUY
Everton mints and Beatles memorabilia.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… The Yellow Duckmarine T: 0151 708 7799 W: theyellowduckmarine.co.uk
Take an hour-long trip around Liverpool’s waterfront in this converted (and very yellow) WW2 amphibious landing vehicle which starts on the road and ends in the water.
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THE CULTURE LIST: Liverpool ART GALLERIES
FACT
Walker Art Gallery
Foundation For Art & Creative Technology 88 Wood Street L1 4DQ T: 0151 707 4444 W: fact.co.uk
William Brown St L3 8EL T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
The Walker sits at the heart of Liverpool’s central cultural quarter alongside the best of the city’s magnificent neo-classical architecture, St George’s Hall and World Museum Liverpool. Often referred to as ‘the National Gallery of the North,’ it is renowned for the breadth and depth of its collections, ranging from medieval and renaissance masterpieces to pieces by modern icons such as David Hockney and Gilbert and George.
Tate Liverpool Albert Dock L3 4BB T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool
The Liverpool outpost of the Tate empire is housed in a wonderful conversion of Grade I-listed warehouses on the banks of the Mersey at Albert Dock. The UK’s largest modern art gallery outside London, it draws on the wide range of 20th and 21st century artwork from the Tate Collection and develops its own innovative changing exhibitions programme.
Open Eye Gallery 28–32 Wood Street L1 4AQ T: 0151 709 9460 W: openeye.org.uk
Great contemporary photography gallery that’s worth a visit to catch the latest touring exhibition by prominent national and international lensmeisters.
View Two Gallery 23 Mathew Street L2 6RE T: 0151 236 9444 W: viewtwogallery.co.uk
Behind an unassuming doorway in the Cavern Quarter you’ll find Liverpool’s leading independent gallery – a positive Aladdin’s cave of contemporary art spread over three floors. It’s only open from noon on Thursdays through to Saturday, but call in on a Saturday afternoon and you’ll get a complimentary glass of wine.
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Billed as ‘an international arts centre for the digital age’, FACT is an award-winning cultural project that is dedicated to showcasing the work of international artists working in film, video and new media. The venue is the hub of the Rope Walks area of the city centre, home to music studios, design collectives and architects studios by day, and to interesting clubs and bars by night.
The Bluecoat School Lane L1 3BX T: 0151 709 5297 W: thebluecoat.org.uk
This Grade I-listed old schoolhouse, thought to be the oldest building in Liverpool city centre, has been a focus for contemporary arts, crafts and design in the city since the 1960s. A £12.5m transformation led by the hip Dutch practise BIQ Architecten, has restored the building to its former glory, with the addition of a spanking new art gallery and performance space.
Lady Lever Art Gallery Lower Rd, Port Sunlight Village, Wirral CH62 5EQ T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
The Lever Brothers soap magnate, William Hesketh Lever, did a lot for this part of the world. Not only did he build the delightful garden village of Port Sunlight (named after his famous soap) but he also created within it the beautiful Lady Lever Art Gallery to house his extensive collection of art, including a magnificent selection of 18th and 19th century paintings. Worth crossing the Mersey for.
Victoria Gallery & Museum Ashton Street, Liverpool L69 3DR T: 0151 794 2348 W: liv.ac.uk/vgm
This newly-opened gallery devoted to the decorative arts is located in a magnificent Victorian building just behind the Metropolitan Cathedral. Part of Liverpool University and the northern outpost of the V&A, its fine cafe makes an ideal afternoon tea location.
MUSEUMS
THEATRES
Liverpool Empire
Cavern Club
Merseyside Maritime Museum
Liverpool Playhouse
Albert Dock L3 4AQ T: 0151 478 4499 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Williamson Square L1 1EL T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
Lime Street L1 1JE T: 0870 606 3536 W: liverpoolempire.org.uk
8–10 Mathew Street L2 6RE T: 0151 236 1965 W: cavernclub.org
Fascinating museum devoted to the history of shipping in Britain from the 13th century onwards. The story of the port of Liverpool plays a large part in the exhibits, and the moving section on the history of the slave trade has proved so popular that a new museum devoted to the slavery story has now opened.
Housed in a 19th century music hall building, this 700-seat theatre has one of the UK’s oldest repertory theatre companies. Produces three or four of its own shows per year, interspersed with good quality touring product.
The largest two-tier theatre in the country, this is the place for the major touring musicals and shows.
Royal Court Theatre
Infamous as the first home of the Fab Four, this is probably the most well-known club in the world. It has remained faithful to the original Merseybeat décor and is obviously a huge draw to the Beatles tourist crowds.
Roe Street L1 1HL T: 0870 787 1866 W: royalcourtliverpool.com
Liverpool Academy
World Museum Liverpool William Brown Street L3 8EN T: 0151 478 4393 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
A £35m refurbishment in 2005 almost doubled the size of what was formerly the Liverpool Museum, giving it a substantial facelift and allowing it to display a whole treasure trove of previously locked away artefacts from its collections.
Mr Chambre Hardman’s Photographic Studio 59 Rodney Street L1 9EX T: 0151 709 6261 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
This loving preservation of the Georgian terraced house of the acclaimed Liverpool photographer Edward Chambre Hardman is a unique time capsule of Liverpool life in the mid-20th century and features an evocative and moving collection of his work.
Everyman Theatre 13 Hope Street L1 9BH T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
This small but consistently innovative theatre is where every Liverpool actor and writer you can think of – from Julie Walters to Willy Russell – cut their creative teeth. Recently celebrated its 40th birthday.
Unity Theatre Hope Place L1 9BG T: 0151 709 4988 W: unitytheatreliverpool.co.uk
Tucked away off Hope Street, this lively small-scale venue is one of the country’s most successful ‘fringe’ theatres, with a reputation for encouraging new writing and new performers, particularly through community involvement.
Previously known as a music venue, the Royal Court has had a new lease of life as the home of the Rawhide comedy club. Gone is the tiered seating of the stalls and in its place are cabaret-style tables to make the waitress service easier and a packed programme of local and national comedians.
Formerly known as The Lomax, this 19th century warehouse building is steeped in musical history and the place to see rock legends, indie all-stars and cutting edge dance and urban acts.
MUSIC VENUES
Echo Arena Liverpool
Liverpool Philharmonic Hall
1 Monarchs Quay L3 4BX T: 0844 8000 400 W: accliverpool.co.uk
Hope Street L1 9BP T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com
The 1930s Philharmonic Hall may look like an old cinema from the outside but inside it’s a riot of superb art deco flourishes, from the beautiful window etchings in the bar to the frescoes of mythological muses on the auditorium walls. Home to a resurgent Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra, whose conductor Vasily Petrenko is so on-side he even plays for the orchestra football team.
11–13 Hotham Street L3 5UF T: 0151 707 3200 W: liverpool-academy.co.uk
Shiny new state-of-the-art concert venue at King’s Dock by the side of the Mersey. Now the main venue in town for big name concerts, comedy and sports events, its just the right size for an arena – big enough to generate the right concert atmosphere but not so big that you need binoculars to see the stars performing.
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THE ESSENTIALS: Blackpool & Lancashire Lying between Manchester and the Lake District, Lancashire is blessed with a wide range of environments, from its cheeky seaside resorts to the rolling countryside that boasts more than its fair share of Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It’s also been steadily developing a reputation as one of the North of England’s best foodie locations. From Goosnargh duck to Lancashire cheese, local produce is inspiring a new generation of restauranteurs and retailers, many of whom can be found on the Ribble Valley Food Trail, which takes in the picturesque towns of Clitheroe, Longridge and a number of villages in the lush Forest of Bowland. Visit www.ribblevalleyfoodtrail.com for more information.
GETTING HERE By road
The M6 motorway runs through central Lancashire making it easily accessible from all parts of the UK. Junctions with the M65 and M55 take you off into the east and west of the county respectively.
By train
The west coast mainline from London to Glasgow stops at Preston and Lancaster. Change at Preston for connections to other parts of Lancashire, including trains to Blackpool and the coast.
By bus
Good bus services throughout Lancashire – check with National Express (0870 580 8080) for routes and timetables and with Traveline (0871 200 2233) for local bus services.
GET THE INFO… W: visitlancashire.com and tastelancashire.com
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THE CULTURE LIST: Blackpool & Lancashire
PLACES TO STAY
Stanley House
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
THINGS TO SEE
The Ashton Lancaster
Mellor, Nr Blackburn BB2 7NP T: 01254 769200 W: stanleyhouse.co.uk
The National Football Museum
The Great Promenade Show
Sir Tom Finney Way, Preston PR1 6PA T: 01772 908442 W: nationalfootballmuseum.com
New South Promenade, Blackpool FY4 1RW T: 01253 476520 W: thegreatpromenadeshow.co.uk
Why Preston, you may say? Believe it or not, Lancashire is the birthplace of professional football and Preston North End is one of the country’s oldest professional football clubs with an illustrious history going back to 1880. Building a museum to celebrate this history was an initial idea that then blossomed into a fascinating and illuminating journey through the history of the game. Considered to have the finest archive of historic football memorabilia in the world, including the prestigious FIFA collection.
Stretching along Blackpool’s South Prom is a unique collection of wonderful modern sculptures. Ranging from the astonishing tide organ, whose haunting tunes are created by the action of the waves, to the world’s largest mirror ball, which pays homage to the town’s status as ballroom capital of the world. Guaranteed to make you smile.
Wyresdale Road, Lancaster LA1 3JJ T: 01524 68460 W: theashtonlancaster.com
In a great location just off the M6, the Ashton is equally handy for visiting the South Lakes and the Forest of Bowland. But it’s the decor of this handsome Georgian house that’s the main draw, with dramatic colours, luxurious fabrics and bathrooms to die for. Awarded 5 stars and a Visit Britain gold award within five months of opening, which must be a record.
Small, boutique hotel which manages to combine a real out-in-the-countryside feel while being just minutes away from the M6 and M65. The quality and attention to detail that have gone into Stanley House started attracting awards almost from the day it opened, culminating recently in the 2007 Enjoy England tourism awards when it came top in the small hotel category.
The Inn at Whitewell
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
INN Dunsop Road, Whitewell, Nr Clitheroe BB7 3AT T: 01200 448222 W: innatwhitewell.com
Wonderfully atmospheric, rambling old coaching inn dating back to the 1300s, complete with authentic creaking floorboards and the odd stuffed fox. Outside is the beautiful Forest of Bowland, while inside there are roaring fires, a great restaurant and fantastic breakfasts (good black pudding of course). Has a fab wine merchants on site too.
Number One South Beach GH 4 Harrowside West, Blackpool FY4 1NW T: 01253 343900 W: numberoneblackpool.com
Blackpool is leading the way in the UK’s reinvention of traditional B&Bs, bringing a boutique-hotel approach to both style and service standards. This new offering from the multi-award winning owners of Number One St Lukes (also in Blackpool) offers superb quality and comfort along with great views of the newly-revamped South Promenade.
The Midland Hotel Marine Road West, Morecambe LA4 4BU T: 01524 424000 W: midlandmorecambe.co.uk
A classic piece of 1930s architecture that has been recently restored into an Art Deco-inspired tour-de-force, undoubtedly helping Morecambe to be recently voted best reinvented seaside town by Coast magazine. This little bit of Miami’s South Beach on the Lancashire coast has 30’s inspired rooms and enough spa treatments to pamper the most demanding diva.
Northcote Northcote Road, Langho, Blackburn BB6 8BE T: 01254 240555 W: northcote.com
Northcote is set in an old manor house set in lush countryside on the edge of the Ribble Valley and, at about an hour’s drive from Manchester or Liverpool, it’s a destination for serious foodies. Award-winning chef Nigel Haworth takes a creative approach to regional specialities (Lancashire cheese ice cream anyone?) and the great wine list means that it’s best to book in overnight in one of the well-appointed rooms.
Thyme & Thyme @ The Sirloin 1–3 Inglewhite Road, Longridge PR3 2RW T: 01772 786888 W: thyme-restaurant.co.uk Station Road, Hoghton, Preston PR5 0DD T: 087171 44245
Embryonic Lancashire foodie empire with two outlets in the Ribble Valley. The first is a bright and busy brasserie serving Lancashire food with ethnic influences, whilst the second is situated on the first floor of a centuries-old village coaching inn and recently won the Hi-Life Diners Club 2009 restaurant of the year for Lancashire.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… Infusion Pleasure Beach, 525 Ocean Boulevard, Blackpool FY4 1EZ T: 0870 444 5566 W: blackpoolpleasurebeach.com
Harris Museum and Art Gallery Market Square, Preston PR1 2PP T: 01772 258248 W: harrismuseum.org.uk
As well as a great gallery and museum, the Harris is also worth a visit for the building itself, a splendid Grade I-listed temple to Victorian civic pride. Inside you’ll find a surprisingly good selection of artworks acquired by the wealthy cotton barons of the day, plus, as you would expect, a fine selection of decorative arts.
THEATRES & VENUES The Grand Theatre 33 Church Street, Blackpool FY1 1HT T: 01253 290190 W: blackpoolgrand.co.uk
Grand by name and grand by nature, this is a riot of plush velvet, gilt and chandeliers, all restored to its original Victorian splendour. Officially Britain’s National Theatre of Variety, it is the place to catch touring shows, including comedy, opera, and musicals.
Dukes Theatre & Cinema
Clitheroe Castle Museum Castle Hill, Clitheroe BB7 1BA T: 01200 424568 W: lancsmuseums.gov.uk
Re-opening at the end of May after a major refurbishment, the museum is housed in Clitheroe’s picturesque castle, which comes complete with 18 acres of lovely formal gardens, a Castle Keep dating back to 1186, and a spanking new cafe in the museum’s contemporary glass extension.
Panopticons Blackburn, Burnley, Pendle and Rossendale W: panopticons.uk.net
Looking around the hills of East Lancashire you’d be forgiven for thinking that the aliens have landed, with a remarkable set of art works set on imposing viewpoints that are visible for miles around. Atom in Pendle is a bronze, egg-shaped sculpture and viewing shelter whilst in Burnley there’s an eerily evocative Singing Ringing Tree that produces a tuneful song in the wind. In Blackburn Colourfields is a multi-coloured turreted viewing platform and the 18m diameter Halo in Rossendale lights up at night and looks like a close encounter of the third kind. Places to contemplate the meaning of life.
Moor Lane, Lancaster LA1 1QE T: 0845 344 0642 W: dukes-lancaster.org
Arts venue that covers a lot of bases from theatre, comedy and music performances to cinema screenings and a small gallery.
For those with nerves (and stomachs) of steel, this gigantic rollercoaster is a series of twisted loops completely suspended over water. 33
THE ESSENTIALS: Chester & Cheshire Chester wears its rich Roman heritage with pride — as you would expect in a city founded by the Romans in AD70. But Chester also has definite contemporary charms, from the slew of chic new restaurants and boutiques to the tree-lined banks of the River Dee. Outside the city centre, you’ll find some glorious countryside, great country pubs and a wealth of stately homes and gardens to visit, ranging from mansions full of art treasures to horticultural heaven in some of the Northwest’s most visited grounds and parklands.
GETTING HERE By road
Cheshire is easily accessible from the main north-south M6 motorway via the M56. Manchester is just over an hour away from Chester by road and from Liverpool is just 30 minutes away via the Mersey tunnel.
By train
Direct rail links from London, Manchester and Liverpool. Change at Crewe for other mainline connections.
By bus
Chester is well served by National Express (0870 580 8080) from all parts of the country.
GET THE INFO… Chester Tourist Information Centre Town Hall, Northgate Street, Chester CH1 2HJ T: 01244 402111 W: visitcheshire.com
PLACES TO STAY
THINGS TO SEE
THEATRES & VENUES
Jodrell Bank Visitor Centre
Chester Grosvenor & Spa
The Rows
Clonter Opera Theatre
Eastgate, Chester CH1 1LT T: 01244 324024 W: chestergrosvenor.com
Eastgate, Chester
Swettenham Heath, Congleton CW12 2LR T: 01260 224514 W: clonteropera.com
Holmes Chapel SK11 9DL T: 01477 571339 W: jb.man.ac.uk/viscen
From its Grade II-listed, black and white timbered, exterior you may be expecting a cacophony of chintz, but inside it’s all muted contemporary tones and understated elegance, plus the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the city. Voted Large Hotel of the Year in the 2007 Enjoy England awards.
The Green Bough Hotel 60 Hoole Road, Chester CH2 3NL T: 01244 326241 W: chestergreenbough.com
Trailing a whole raft of awards behind it, including Best Small Hotel in England, Green Bough is a quietly stylish boutique hotel a few minutes walk from the city centre.
The White House Manor New Road, Prestbury SK10 4HP T: 01625 829376 W: thewhitehouse.uk.com
This restored Georgian townhouse in the leafy Cheshire suburbs was voted the Northwest Small Hotel of the Year in 2008. Tastefully-designed, individually-themed rooms and a first-class restaurant are just some of the reasons why.
PLACES TO EAT & DRINK Oddfellows 20 Lower Bridge Street, Chester CH1 1RS T: 01244 689809 W: oddfellows.biz
Grand 17th century Georgian manor house that has been transformed into a sumptuous venue for fine dining and drinking. There’s a wonderful walled garden, a swanky Champagne Bar and a rather glamorous and grown-up Tea Rooms, plus four boutique rooms if you fancy staying over.
Cheshire Smokehouse Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow SK9 5NU T: 01625 548499 W: cheshiresmokehouse.co.uk
Nationally-famous farm shop with a bijou winery, an artisan bakers and a fabulous café creating a complete gastronomic destination in the heart of the Cheshire countryside. 34
THE CULTURE LIST: Chester & Cheshire
Effectively double decker shops, these black and white timbered buildings date from the middle ages. There’s nothing medieval about the merchandise though – the Rows are now packed with contemporary boutiques to taunt your plastic.
Beeston Castle Chapel Lane, Beeston, Cheshire CW6 9TX T: 01829 260464 W: visitcheshire.com
Cheshire’s equivalent of Glyndebourne is this 400-seat opera venue in a gorgeous woodland setting.
Alexander’s Jazz Cafe Rufus Court, Chester CH1 2JW T: 01244 340005 W: alexandersjazz.com
Continental-style cafe bar by day and venue for jazz, blues and comedy by night. Reportedly the longest-running comedy club outside London.
The world-famous Lovell Radio Telescope is a prominent feature of the Cheshire landscape. You can get up close to the telescope itself and there’s also an arboretum and environmental discovery centre.
GARDENS OF DISTINCTION Tatton Park Knutsford WA16 6QN T: 01625 534400 W: tattonpark.org.uk
Cultural Quarter, Warrington WA1 1BL T: 01925 442345 W: pyramidparrhall.co.uk
Thought to be England’s most complete historic estate, Tatton has a fine Georgian mansion full of art treasures and original furnishings, but it is the glorious 1,000 acres of parkland, with lakes and a herd of deer, that most people come to see.
Upton-by-Chester CH2 1LH T: 01244 380280 W: chesterzoo.org
Twin arts venue hosting touring shows of music, drama and comedy.
Arley Hall and Gardens
You’re never too old for a good zoo, and Chester is one of the best.
MUSEUMS & HERITAGE
Northwich CW9 6NA T: 01565 777353 W: arleyhallandgardens.com
Medieval fortress set on a rock outcrop that dates back to the Crusades. Worth a visit for the superb views over the Cheshire plain.
THINGS TO DO Chester Zoo
Chesterboat T: 01244 325394
Pyramid & Parr Hall
Norton Priory Museum & Gardens
Go boating on the river Dee, cruising through Chester and the surrounding countryside.
Tudor Road, Manor Park, Runcorn, Cheshire WA7 1SX T: 01928 569895 W: nortonpriory.org
THINGS TO BUY
Classy fashions, antiques and smoked nuts.
A medieval priory established in 1134 is the basis for an award-winning museum, plus a fabulous walled garden.
GIVE IT A WHIRL…
Quarry Bank Mill
Chester Ghost Tours T: 01244 402111 W: visitchester.com
Discover your inner Derek Acorah with a trip round what many consider Britain’s ‘most haunted’ city. The Chester Ghosthunter Trail is a night-time guided walk around the city’s spooky and scary places, with tales of eerie goings-on across the centuries.
JF Polo Academy Nortons Lane, Great Barrow, Cheshire CH37JZ T: 01928 740869 W: jfpoloacademy.com
Go swinging with the Cheshire set and discover whether you’re a natural at one of the world’s most glamorous sports with a two hour introductory lesson.
Styal, Wilmslow, Cheshire SK9 4LA T: 01625 445896 W: quarrybankmill.org.uk
If industrial heritage is your bag, this is a real treasure trove – a restored industrial community in the Cheshire countryside complete with working water mill.
Chester Cathedral
The Hall at Arley is very charming but it’s the gardens that draw the crowds, with Arley cited in the top 10 gardens to visit in the UK.
Lyme Park Disley, Stockport SK12 2NX T: 01663 762023 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Gorgeous country house and grounds that will be familiar to many as the setting for Colin Firth’s famous wet T-shirt moment in the BBC’s Pride and Prejudice series.
Dunham Massey Altrincham, Cheshire WA14 4SJ T: 0161 941 1025 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Elegant Georgian mansion whose lovely grounds are home to an ancient herd of fallow deer. Renowned for its cream teas.
12 Abbey Square, Chester CH1 2HU T: 01244 324756 W: chestercathedral.com
Ness Gardens
This Grade I-listed building dates back to the 16th century and with its many modifications over the years it is almost like a living text book on medieval architecture. The interior is impressive and the surrounding gardens and monastic cloisters are an oasis of calm in the bustle of Chester city centre.
Superb botanic gardens overlooking the Dee Estuary. Winner of the Large Attraction of the Year award in Cheshire’s 2008 tourism awards.
Neston Road, Ness, Neston, Cheshire CH64 4AY T: 0151 353 0123 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Further gardens at www.cheshiresgardens.com 35
THE ESSENTIALS: The Lake District & Cumbria PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
Pheasant Inn
L’enclume Restaurant
Bassenthwaite Lake CA13 9YE T: 017687 76234 W: the-pheasant.co.uk
Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands LA11 6PZ T: 015395 36362 W: lenclume.co.uk
Cartmel may seem like an unusual spot to find a Michelin-starred restaurant, but chef Simon Rogan has made an amazing temple to gastronomy in this 13th century smithy. There’s seven comfy and characterful rooms to roll into once you’ve worked through the epic, palette-expanding tasting menu.
Drunken Duck Inn Barngates, Ambleside LA22 ONG T: 015394 36347 W: drunkenduckinn.co.uk
Take it from the mouth of the man himself — Wordsworth said that there was “nowhere in so narrow a compass with such a variety of the sublime and beautiful”. With beautiful lakes, changing coastline and 100 peaks over 2,000 feet high all within a 30-mile stretch, this is the perfect place to go wandering ‘lonely as a cloud’. But Cumbria is no longer just the territory of the kagoule-clad rambler or the crag-hopping adrenaline junkie. With Michelinstarred restaurants, seriously indulgent spa hotels and even the traditional B&Bs and self-catering cottages undergoing something of a boutique reinvention, the Lakes is also a place where you can enjoy a little luxury and sophistication. You can even get your culture fix, with Lakes Alive, a summer-long programme of outdoor arts events. Visit www.lakesalive.org for more information. 36
GETTING HERE
PLACES TO STAY
By road
Stone Cottage
You can reach the southern Lakes by car from either Liverpool or Manchester in little over an hour. All parts of Lakeland are easily accessible from the M6 motorway, which runs north to south just to the eastern side of Cumbria.
By train
The west coast mainline from London to Glasgow stops at Oxenholme (change for Kendal and Windermere), Penrith and Carlisle. There are also regular direct trains between Manchester Airport and Windermere and between Manchester Airport and Barrow-inFurness and the Western Lake District.
By bus
Windermere and Keswick are well served by National Express (0870 580 8080) coaches from all parts of the country.
GET THE INFO… W: golakes.co.uk/culture T: 01539 822222
Grove Barn, Hartsop, Patterdale CA11 0NZ T: 017684 82647 W: lakelandstonecottage.co.uk
Fancy staying in a self-catering cottage but can’t stand chintz? Then Stone Cottage is for you – it’s the five-star boutique-style version, with contemporary luxury in a beautiful location just 20 minutes from Ambleside.
Sharrow Bay Ullswater, Penrith CA10 2LZ T: 017684 86301 W: sharrowbay.co.uk
The grandaddy of Lake District country house hotels, Sharrow Bay set the standard for others to follow. Worth going for the spectacular Ullswater views and the afternoon teas – it’s an occasion in itself.
The Linthwaite House Hotel Crook Road, Windermere LA23 3JA T: 015394 88600 W: linthwaite.com
Bijou hotel perched above the eastern shores of Lake Windermere where you can savour views of lakes and fells while avoiding the bustle. The styling is described as ‘Ralph Lauren meets Raffles’ and the restaurant is a gastronome’s delight. Good all year round, with crackling fires and bracing walks in winter and strolls in the gardens in summer.
Fantastic 400-year-old Lakeland Inn where you can dine in the fab restaurant, sample a prize-winning ale from the on-site Barngates Brewery, and stay the night in one of 16 spacious and comfy rooms.
The Punch Bowl Inn Crosthwaite, Lyth Valley LA8 8HR T: 015395 68237 W: the-punchbowl.co.uk
This top quality Lakeland gastropub set in a tiny village near Kendal is great for a cosy country bolthole weekend. Has a nice vibe about it – the sort of place where old and new work together well, from the top notch foodie standards of the restaurant to the locals popping in for quick halves of beer.
The Sun Inn Kirkby Lonsdale LA6 2AU. T: 015242 71965 W: sun-inn.info
17th century Inn with all mod cons set in the attractive market town of Kirkby Lonsdale in the Lune Valley, Has kept all the traditional heritage elements of flag floors, roaring log fires and cask ales but combined it with high quality contemporary cuisine and rooms replete with Wi-Fi access and LCD TV’s.
Lucy’s of Ambleside Church Road, Ambleside LA22 0BU T: 015394 32288 W: lucysofambleside.co.uk
Foodie mecca at the top of Lake Windermere with specialist grocery store, restaurant and bistro. Recently opened another brasserie outpost in Bowness plus a cookery school.
One of the best things about staying in the Lakes is waking up to amazing views. Peacefully set in its own gardens and woodland between the lakes and the fells, the hotel makes an ideal base for exploring the northern end of the Lakes.
THINGS TO SEE Ruskin’s View Kirkby Lonsdale
Grizedale Forest Park T: 01229 860010 W: forestry.gov.uk
Situated between Coniston and Hawkshead, this beautiful forest hides over 70 works of art and sculpture scattered through the woodland. There are walking and cycling routes with beautiful views over Coniston Water and plenty of arty pit stops.
THINGS TO DO Windermere Lake Cruises T: 015394 43360 W: windermere-lakecruises.co.uk
The discerning Victorian thinker was so captivated by this spot overlooking the River Lune that he described it as ‘one of the loveliest scenes in England’. Admired by Wordsworth and Constable too, it was also the subject of a JW Turner painting.
The best way to enjoy the beauty of Lake Windermere is from the water, with regular sailings daily throughout the year.
Castlerigg Stone Circle
Taking one of the atmospheric old lake steamers on Ullswater is not only a joy in itself, it’s a great way to access some lovely and not too taxing walks, including the popular lakeshore walk to Patterdale.
Just outside Keswick
Even through it is dwarfed by the surrounding mighty peaks of Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Blencathra, this 5,000-year-old circle of 48 craggy standing stones has an awesome presence and dignity.
Sheepfolds Various locations across Cumbria W: sheepfoldscumbria.co.uk
Andy Goldsworthy has made his name creating art out of found objects in natural environments. This series of 46 installations was created as part of a seven-year project to bring to life a number of derelict sheepfolds across the Cumbrian countryside. GPS coordinates and directions to all the folds are listed on the website.
Hadrian’s Wall Country Carlisle W: hadrians-wall.org
Britain’s greatest Roman monument is effectively one of the globe’s largest World Heritage Sites – 150 miles running from Ravenglass in Cumbria to South Shields at the mouth of the Tyne. Carlisle makes a great starting point for exploring this frontier of the Roman Empire, from its fascinating history to its archaeological remains.
Ullswater ‘Steamers’ Glenridding, Cumbria T: 017684 82229 W: ullswater-steamers.co.uk
Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway T: 01229 717171 W: ravenglass-railway.co.uk
Known affectionately as ‘la’al Ratty’, this is the oldest narrow-gauge railway in England. Originally built in 1875 to carry iron ore, it now provides an entertaining seven mile, 40-minute steam train journey that winds its way through the forests and fields of lower Eskdale.
THINGS TO BUY
Cumberland sausage, Kendal mint cake, Grasmere gingerbread, contemporary art.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… Via Ferrata Honister Slate Mine, Borrowdale, Keswick CA12 5XN T: 017687 77230 W: honister-slate-mine.co.uk/via_ferrata.asp
Altitude = adrenaline and you’ll get high in more ways than one on this ‘iron road’ up the mountainside. A zip wire and harness mean you can follow the practically vertical old slate miners trail in safety. 37
THE CULTURE LIST: The Lake District & Cumbria THEATRES & VENUES
Castlegate House Gallery
Brewery Arts Centre
Cockermouth CA13 9HA T: 01900 822149 W: castlegatehouse.co.uk
Highgate, Kendal LA9 4HE T: 01539 725133 W: breweryarts.co.uk
Voted one of the top 10 places to visit in Britain in 2007, the Brewery is the buzzing hub for arts and culture in the south Lakes, with an auditorium for theatre, dance and comedy, three cinema screens, an exhibition space, plus a suitably bohemian bar and restaurant. Whenever you visit, there’s bound to be something on worth catching.
The Cumbrian scenery has long been a source of inspiration to artists and this has manifested itself for the 21st century in the area’s concentration of small, independent, contemporary art galleries. Castlegate House is one of the best, specialising in the work of Northern English and Scottish artists in a variety of media from paintings and sculpture, to ceramics, jewellery and glass.
Theatre by the Lake
MUSEUMS
Lakeside, Keswick CA12 5DJ T: 017687 74411 W: theatrebythelake.com
Does just what it says on the tin – concerts, performances and exhibitions all set in a fabulous spot overlooking a panorama of mountains on the edge of Derwentwater. Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the theatre is open all year round.
GALLERIES Abbot Hall Art Gallery Kendal LA9 5AL T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
The high-profile exhibitions at Abbot Hall have attracted national attention since it started its innovative partnership with the Tate in 2001. In recent years the gallery has hosted major exhibitions by artists such as Lucian Freud, Bridget Riley, Euan Uglow and Walter Richard Sickert. It’s also in a great location, housed in a lovely Georgian villa on the banks of the river Kent.
Blackwell Bowness-on-Windermere LA23 3JT T: 015394 46139 W: blackwell.org.uk
Blackwell is a superb example of a turn-ofthe-20th century Arts and Crafts house. Now lovingly restored and open to the public, it’s a living and breathing example of the distinctive architecture of the period as well as housing a fantastic and ever-growing collection of Arts and Crafts artefacts. Often holds outdoor sculpture exhibitions in its beautifully-manicured grounds.
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Dove Cottage & The Wordsworth Museum Grasmere LA22 9SH T: 015394 35544 W: wordsworth.org.uk
Wordsworth’s picturesque former home on the outskirts of Grasmere has been lovingly restored and features a whole host of the poet’s original possessions – from his marital bed to his ice skates. A stone’s throw from Dove Cottage is the Jerwood Centre, home to the Wordsworth Trust’s 59,000 manuscripts, books and prints relating to the English Romantics, plus the 3 Degrees West Gallery which holds exhibitions of contemporary art inspired by the poet’s work.
Brantwood Coniston LA21 8AD T: 015394 41396 W: brantwood.org.uk
‘There is no wealth but life’ said John Ruskin, and you can understand why he had such a great perspective on reality when you visit his wonderfully-sited home overlooking Coniston Water. The house and gardens are open to the public and there’s an ongoing programme of exhibitions and events to enlighten you to the life and work of the grand old man of Victorian art and letters.
Hill Top Near Sawrey, Hawkshead LA22 0LF T: 015394 36269 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Seriously quaint 17th century farmhouse where Beatrix Potter wrote her stories and where Renée Zellweger got to practise her English accent again.
PRIME SUSPECT: John Squire Tullie House Museum and Gallery
What was the best gig you went to? The Clash, Manchester Apollo, October 1977.
Tullie House, Castle Street, Carlisle CA3 8TP T: 01228 618718 W: tulliehouse.co.uk
What’s your favourite Northwest originated song or piece of music? Chinese Laundry Blues by George Formby.
A positive cornucopia of things to do in the Northwest’s Visitor Attraction of the Year 2007, located at the heart of Carlisle’s historic quarter, next to the Cathedral and Castle. You can investigate its Roman collection as a gateway for exploring Hadrian’s Wall Country or enjoy its art exhibitions and interactive galleries of Cumbrian history and heritage. Or just simply while away an afternoon in Old Tullie House itself, a beautifully preserved Grade I-listed Jacobean building with delightful gardens.
Cumberland Pencil Museum Main St, Keswick CA12 5NG. T: 017687 73626 W: pencilmuseum.co.uk
We kid you not. A quirky museum devoted to one of the region’s oldest industries that developed around the naturally-occurring pure graphite that was mined out of the fells around Borrowdale. More than you’ll ever need to know about the art of pencil-making.
HERITAGE Levens Hall Sizergh, nr Kendal LA8 8AE T: 015395 60321 W: levenshall.co.uk
Elizabethan stately home dating from the 14th century that’s primarily known for its renowned topiary garden, the oldest in Britain and the blueprint for the 17th century formal garden. The on-site restaurant sells ribsticking local fayre and it even brews its own spiced Elizabethan beer.
Holker Hall, Gardens & Lakeland Motor Museum
What was your first/best experience of going to a gallery or museum? Seeing the Mark Rothko Seagrams paintings at Tate Modern in the early 80s with no prior knowledge of the man or his work.
As lead guitarist and co-songwriter in the Stone Roses, John Squire was one of the original movers and shakers of the Manchester music scene in the late 80s. As well as his reputation as a musician, Squire is also a wellknown, published artist. In the 80s and 90s, his Jackson Pollockinfluenced artwork adorned singles, album covers and promotional posters for his and the Stone Roses’ music. Since then, his artistic output has broadened into new mediums and influences and his latest solo art exhibition will be on display at Gallery Oldham throughout the summer before touring to Austria and Tokyo in the autumn. And no, the Stone Roses aren’t reforming...
What’s your favourite painting/ piece of art/sculpture? This week it’s Delineator by Richard Serra. What was your first/best experience of going to the theatre? I saw my Grandad in something at a community centre in Wythenshawe when I was little, all the coloured lights impressed me. It’s been a downward spiral for me and theatre since then. Do you have a favourite Northwest pub or restaurant? The Mill Lane Chippy, Macclesfield — fish, chips, peas and curry sauce, perfect every time.
What’s the one thing in your home town/neighbourhood that people really shouldn’t miss if they go there? The view from the top of Shutlingslow near Macclesfield forest. Was there anything particular about Northwest culture that inspired you to do what you’ve done/what you do now? The industrial revolution, The Peterloo Massacre and its legacy, The Russell Club, Hacienda, So It Goes, The Other Side of Midnight. Blue Monday or Happy Monday? Blue! Bunny Men or Diddy Men? Bunny. Jimmy Saville or Peter Saville? Peter. Beatrix Potter or Brian Potter? Brian. Welcome to the Pleasure Beach or Welcome to the Pleasure Dome? Beach. Eccles Cake or Kendal Mint Cake? Eccles.
Do you have a favourite Northwest local food? See above! Can you suggest a ‘hidden gem’ in your home town/neighbourhood? The Ship Inn, Wincle.
Cark-in-Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands LA11 7PL T: 015395 58328 W: holker-hall.co.uk
Stately home that’s well worth a visit for its 25 acres of justly-famous gardens plus its status as home to the Lakeland Motor Museum, exhibiting a range of historic cars.
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www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com