Your guide to the very best of culture and countryside in England’s Northwest
Volume 2 Issue 2: where culture comes first
www.primenorthwest.co.uk
Volume 2, Issue 2
Autumn/Winter 2010/11
Manchester sees a shrink... Inside
48 ARTFUL HOURS AT THE MANCHESTER WEEKENDER GET AHEAD OF THE PACK AT LIVERPOOL BIENNIAL PLUS THE CULTURE & COUNTRYSIDE LISTS FOR ENGLAND’S NORTHWEST
PRIME SPOTS: England’s Northwest
PRIME NUMBERS: Contents
COLOPHON
Prime is published by the Marketing Department of the Northwest Regional Development Agency. Volume 2, Issue 2 – September 2010. To register for future issues of Prime please email your name and postal address to venw@nwda.co.uk or call 0845 600 6040. Prime is edited and designed by Hemisphere Design and Marketing Consultants. Printed by Gyroscope on paper manufactured using elemental chlorine-free pulp and woodpulp sourced from sustainable forests.
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Cover & p11: Shrink by Lawrence Malstaf. Credits: p4–7 Wolves image by Carlos Amorales, commissioned by Liverpool Biennial as part of the Touched creative campaign; p6 Kris Martin – Courtesy Sies + Höke, Düsseldorf, photo by Matthew Septimus, New York; p7 Sachiko Abe, Laura Bartlett Gallery – photo by Gen Sasaki; p8 Jamie Cullen; p10 Jonathan Franzen © Greg Martin, Lian Stewart in Self Made – photo by Mark Chapman; p12 Kate MccGwire Evacuate, photo: Barney Lidster; p13 Portrait of Albrecht Dürer by Hollar © Hunterian Museum & Art Gallery, University of Glasgow; p13 Jasmine by William Morris © William Morris Society; p14 Rafael Lozano-Hemmer Pulse Room; p14 Chen Qiulin, Stills from Garden. Courtesy of the artist and Max Protetch Gallery, New York; p15 Earthenware roof tile in the form of Guan Yu riding his horse. Made in north China, between 1490 and 1620 © The Trustees of the British Museum; p17 Cinderella 1949–50 revival, Curtain Call Margot Fonteyn and Michael Somes, photograph by Roger Wood © ROH Collections; p17 Käthe Kollwitz, Help Russia © The Barber Institute of Fine Arts; p17 ENRON © Helen Maybanks; p43 © Blackpool Grand Theatre.
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Essentials and Culture List photography: Jonty Wilde, Jill Jennings, Ben Page, Craig Easton, Jan Chlebik and Tony West.
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All information correct at time of going to press but information may change, so please check directly with venues for up-to-date information. All maps are source: © Crown Copyright and database right 2009. Ordnance Survey License GD021102/100022432.
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ACCOMMODATION RATINGS
All accommodation featured in Prime has been quality assessed by VisitBritain or the AA – look out for the star rating next to each establishment.
The number of stars gives you an indication of accommodation standard, cleanliness, ambience, hospitality, service and food. Generally, the more stars the higher the level of quality. GH: Guest House SA: Serviced Apartments
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Prime yourself…
FEATURES:
Summer may be a distant memory, but that doesn’t mean you’ve missed the chance to get away and indulge yourself in a feast of cultural delights.
LIVERPOOL BIENNIAL:
England’s Northwest is where the amplifier of culture is always set to 11; a place where we like to push things to the edge of ‘what if?’ and see what happens. Take a look at what’s on offer this autumn and you (and all those BBC-types who are heading up to Manchester in the next year) will be surprised by a cultural cornucopia of trend-making theatre, provocative contemporary art, premier league international orchestras, subversive happenings, intriguing architecture and more, all delivered with a substantial side-salad of Northwestern chutzpah. This autumn there’s a couple of events that are definitely worth planning your trip around. The 6th Liverpool Biennial is not just a must for any contemporary art lover, it’s also a sensory pleasure for people who normally wouldn’t darken an art gallery’s doorstep, with over half of the works happening in the streets and public spaces of the city. In Manchester, the city’s galleries, museums, festivals and promoters have got together to see what happens if they all combine an eclectic array of one-off events into one 48-hour period. The resulting Manchester Weekender is as full-on as you would expect for the city that really knows how to go for it. In this edition of Prime, you’ll find all the info you need for a great visit, from insider tips on what to do and what not to miss, to some of the quirky and unusual things that make the Northwest so distinctive.
Page 4 Running ahead of the pack Follow the pack around the streets, squares and buildings of Liverpool as they play host to the weird and wonderful labours of the world’s best contemporary artists.
MANCHESTER WEEKENDER:
Page 8 10 good reasons
If you’re in need of an excuse to visit Manchester for the weekend then this 48-hour whirlwind of all that’s great about the city’s galleries, museums and festivals is just the reason you’ve been looking for.
PRIME CUTS:
Page 12 Events for autumn & winter 2010
Who needs to head off abroad when there’s so much happening at home? There’s no shortage of great events taking place in England’s Northwest this autumn and we’ve selected the best for you to choose from.
THE ESSENTIAL LISTS:
All the information you need to make your visit go smoothly, including the best places to stay, eat and drink in:
Page 19 Manchester Page 27 Liverpool Page 35 The Lake District & Cumbria Page 40 Lancashire Page 44 Cheshire
THE CULTURE AND COUNTRY LISTS:
From cultural cities to glorious countryside, the Northwest’s got it all. Find out about the things you shouldn’t miss in:
Page 24 Manchester Page 32 Liverpool Page 38 The Lake District & Cumbria Page 42 Lancashire Page 46 Cheshire
So what are you waiting for? Go on and give it a whirl! 3
FIRST OFF:
Liverpool Biennial
Running ahead of the pack Liverpool’s year in the spotlight as European Capital of Culture let everybody in on the big secret — Liverpool loves its art. Liverpool Biennial is one of the biggest emblems of this particular affair of the heart. Now in its 11th year, this festival devoted to the outer reaches of the artistic imagination is widely recognised as one of the largest and most exciting contemporary art events in the UK. And with almost a million visits by people immersing themselves in wall-to-wall culture at the last Biennial in 2008, it’s also one of the world’s best attended. For 10 madcap weeks, a selection of the world’s best contemporary artists get to let themselves loose in the galleries, streets and unused buildings of the city, aided and abetted by the best of Liverpool’s homegrown talent. And the city just laps it up, with bemused locals mixing with incoming art lovers to wonder at the art on offer. According to the event’s artistic director, Lewis Biggs, the name ‘Biennial’ has now evolved for locals into being just a word for ‘strange and amazing things happening in our city’. For 2010, the Biennial is really upping the stakes in order to top 2008’s Capital of Culture bumper edition. This year’s affair will be even bigger, with more artists, more art and more impact on the city than ever before, ranging from the eye-catchingly curious to the positively outrageous. 4
The full programme runs the gamut from events such as the prestigious John Moores Painting Prize to the cutting-edge artistic feast that is the International, 10 weeks of new work and UK premierès by over 70 of the world’s leading artists, all designed to stop people in their tracks. Around the edges, you’ll find the provocatively pioneering Independents, a riotous fringe that in 2008 included an encyclopaedic 1,000 artists in some 175 exhibitions. All of Liverpool’s main galleries will be playing their part in this year’s International, from Tate Liverpool, Bluecoat and Open Eye to digital arts venue, FACT and the A Foundation gallery in the city’s old Port area. However one of the main focal points will be a vast exhibition space in an old hardware store in the city centre, which, according to the architect, has the longest shop front in the UK. As well as hosting installations and exhibitions, the venue will act as a festival hub throughout the 10-week period. Overleaf are some hints and tips of what to look out for as you prowl the city’s streets following the Biennial’s graphic pack of wolves. But the main things you need to enjoy the spectacle are a sense of adventure and a willingness to submit to unusual experiences. Oh, and a pair of comfy shoes…
Mexican artist, Carlos Amorales, has produced an illustrated pack of wolves to be used across the city as a signpost for art lovers trekking between Biennial shows. Keep an eye out for them prowling across hoardings, banners, billboards and shop fronts.
Liverpool Biennial 18 September–28 November 2010 For more details go to www.biennial.com 5
GO FETCH… Get touched by art in the most unexpected places. As usual, Liverpool Biennial will be spilling out of the galleries and into the streets and urban spaces of the city, with over half the commissions this year popping up in unusual locations such as warehouses, roadsides and shop-fronts. Here’s just a small selection of some of the events worth sniffing out. For more details go to www.biennial.com.
Cut Papers #10, 2009 Sachiko Abe
synclastic-anticlastic, 2010 Héctor Zamora
Walkies
Dog house
Cry wolf
Puppy love
The mongrels
Leader of the pack
Tania Bruguera’s cult Cuban art school re-forms in Liverpool, bringing a little bit of ‘Havana sexy’ to the banks of the Mersey. Twenty up-and-coming Cuban artists set up camp in a disused hardware store, then get out and about on the streets of the city using Liverpool and its citizens as their raw materials for a stab at recreating some of Allan Kaprow’s celebrated 1960s ‘happenings’.
Installation by Korean-American artist, Do Ho Suh that’s a scale model of the house in Seoul where he was born, crammed into an empty plot on Duke Street, almost as if it has just fallen out of the sky. Representing the collision between East and West that the artist has been subject to, this is a highly appropriate topic in a city that is already a place of many cultural collisions.
A rare chance to experience the work of the legendary and elusive performance artist Tehching Hsieh, who, alongside digital media artists Minouk Lim and Yves Netzhammer, explores that most fundamental form of human touch: the unconditional bond between mother and child.
Untitled
Location: The former Rapid Hardware Store, Renshaw Street and around the city
Artist: Do Ho Suh
Artists: Tehching Hsieh Minouk Lim Yves Netzhammer
On the edge of the Biennial pack are a number of alternative offerings including The Cooperative, a temporary ‘shop-front’ gallery run by seven of the city’s most active arts collectives including cult group, Jump Ship Rat. Expect new work by over 40 Liverpool based artists, plus workshops, debates and changing weekly exhibitions. Social Questioning Using Art Today (S.Q.U.A.T) is also worth looking out for, where New York and Liverpool based art collectives join forces to transform empty commercial spaces through their imaginative ‘upcycling’ approach to urban regeneration.
Mexican-born artist Zamora specialises in interventions in the physical structures of urban spaces and his target for the Biennial is the shiny black shards of the new Mann Island development right next to Liverpool’s iconic Three Graces. His shoal of 170 manta rays, crafted from concrete, will ‘swim’ through the atrium of one of the buildings, allowing ‘living’ elements to touch the constructed world.
Catedra Arte de Conducta
Situated in the cemetery next to Liverpool’s magnificent Anglican Cathedral, the Grade I listed Oratory is being opened to the public especially for the Biennial for this evocative new work by Brazilian artist Laura Belém. Consisting of a thousand hand-blown glass bells hanging from the ceiling and a specially composed polyphonic soundtrack telling the ancient legend of a lost temple sought after by sailors, this 3D sensory experience promises to be both beautiful and poignant.
Artist: Héctor Zamora
Location: FACT
The Cooperative S.Q.U.A.T Liverpool
Location: Mann Island, Pier Head
Location: Duke Street
The Temple of a Thousand Bells Artist: Laura Belém
Mother Touch
Location: The Oratory, St James Cemetery (next to Liverpool Cathedral)
Forest Composition, 2009 Antti Laitinen
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Fallen Star 1/5, 2009 Do Ho Suh
Mandi XV, 2007 Kris Martin
synclastic-anticlastic
Location: Hanover Street & Rope Walks
In-Flight (Project: Another Country), 2009 Isabel and Alfredo Aquilizan
Flame Test, 2009 Will Kwan
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FIRST OFF:
The Manchester Weekender
…good reasons There are always plenty of good reasons to make Manchester top of your list for a weekend of culture, but this October there are at least 10 more to add. For the first time, Manchester’s museums, galleries, festivals and promoters have all got together to create an extra impetus for you to hotfoot it up to the city where the natives are always game for trying something new. The Manchester Weekender is the result – a 48-hour jamboree of art, culture, music, film, food, literature, walks, politics, poetry, photography, theatre and spectacle, all wrapped up into a single weekend. Running from 1–3 October, the Weekender showcases the best of the city’s festivals, presents unusual events in Manchester’s most historic buildings and showcases the latest work by world-renowned artists, filmmakers and writers. In between, it slots in guided tours of secret spaces and underground art, points out popup cinemas and digital art in public spaces, asks award-winning chefs to turn out threecourse meals in the sorts of places you’d always hoped to dine but never thought you would, and hosts late-night music and performance inside the city’s normally shuttered galleries.
1. Rafael Lozano-Hemmer
2. Abandon Normal Devices (AND)
Major new exhibition by Mexican-Canadian electronic artist Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, whose speciality is creating artworks that see, hear and feel the actions of people around them, using technologies such as biometric scanners, surveillance cameras and microphones. Includes the world premiere of a large-scale installation People on People and the seminal Pulse Room, the artist’s contribution to the Mexican Pavilion for the Venice Biennale 2007, where hundreds of suspended lights switch on and off according to the heart rates of the visitors in the room. Only UK venue for this show.
This boldly freewheeling arts and film festival presents a packed programme of digital art and cinema premierès, plus late-night events in galleries across the city. A curious mix of experiments, screenings, debates and mindblowing art, highlights include the outrageous drag queen Peaches Christ, aka Joshua Grannall, launching the European premierè of his black comedy All About Evil and a new commission from cultural provocateur Phil Collins in a continuation of his critically acclaimed work, Marxism Today. 1–7 October
Various venues
September to January 2011
Manchester Art Gallery
continued over
To whet your appetite for this 48 hours of fun and cultural frolics across the city, here are our top 10 picks of what to see and do.
Pulse Room by Rafael Lozano-Hemmer
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3. Lawrence Malstaf’s Shrink
5. The Land Between Us
Not one for the claustrophobic, this highlight of the Weekender is a new work by the young Belgian artist Lawrence Malstaf, who started life as a theatre designer before moving on to create art installations that play with technology and the human form. This event for the AND Festival sees the artist being wrapped between two large transparent plastic sheets. The air is then gradually sucked out from the between the sheets to leave him vacuum-packed and suspended in mid-air from the ceiling of the hidden architectural gem that is Manchester’s NeoClassical Freemason’s Hall. Weird but amazing at the same time.
The Whitworth Art Gallery ups the stakes for the Weekender by recreating a forest within its gallery space for this show looking at landscape art, its imagery and the places and power associated with it. Starting with the aforementioned forest, a dramatic work by Olafur Eliasson (best known for his enormous sun-like installation at Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall), the exhibition also features 50 of the Whitworth’s JMW Turner watercolours – the first time they have all been exhibited at once – supplemented with contemporary works by Nikhil Chopra, Larissa Sansour, Rachel Whiteread and many others.
Friday 1 October
Whitworth Art Gallery
Freemasons Hall, Bridge Street
September to January 2011
8. Dave Haslam meets Jonathan Franzen The celebrated American author Jonathan Franzen heads to the Whitworth Art Gallery to read from his latest novel, Freedom in an evening that is part of DJ and writer Dave Haslam’s regular (and regularly sold out) ‘in conversation’ events. An opportunity to get up close and personal with one of the US’s most lauded authors, as well as find out more about his hotly anticipated new novel. Sunday 3 October
Whitworth Art Gallery
4. Gillian Wearing’s Self Made
6. Manchester By Boat
9. Beating Wing Orchestra
A bit of a coup for the AND Festival, with the first UK showing of Turner Prize-winning artist Gillian Wearing’s feature-length film, Self Made. Filmed on location in Newcastle. Wearing submitted newspaper and job centre ads that simply asked members of the public: “If you were to play a part in a film, would you be yourself or a fictional character?” This social experiment aims to expose how real people see their own lives as a movie and asks if we are all just playing a role, whether we realise it or not.
Chef Robert Owen Brown (whose traditional British dishes Observer food critic Jay Rayner once described as ‘an old-fashioned treat’) turns out a three-course meal on board a boat travelling from the banks of the Irwell in the city centre out to the wide-open vistas of Salford Quays. Digest waterside sights along with a traditional British menu as the on-board tour guide points out everything from Industrial Revolution remnants to Daniel Libeskind’s Imperial War Museum North, one of the UK’s top ten architectural buildings.
Best known for their sell-out performances at Manchester International Festival last year, Beating Wing Orchestra brings together artists from across Manchester’s musical spectrum, and from communities as diverse as Kurdistan and Cameroon, Bangladesh and Brazil, to create joyful and life-affirming shows. This one-off performance will bring a completely new sensation to the quirky galleries and architecture of the Daniel Libeskind-designed Imperial War Museum North.
SATURDAY 2 OCTOBER
Saturday 2 October
Sunday 3 October
Cornerhouse
Starts from the Mark Addy pub in the city centre
Imperial War Museum North
7. Krysko & Kashiwagi at The Whitworth A one-off gig that’s part performance art and part club night, taking place in the distinctly unusual redbrick setting of the Whitworth Art Gallery. DJ Matthew Krysko (The Warehouse Project/Sankeys/Tribal Gathering) and award winning performance artist Naomi Kashiwagi use this Victorian gallery as the backdrop for a new collaborative work that combines electronic music with wind-up gramophones, and 70 year-old shellac records with the latest in digital DJ technology. Saturday 2 October
Whitworth Art Gallery
10. The Black Sounds Series Three-day multi-arts and music event that explores the influence of black music in the UK both past and present. Featuring spoken word, contemporary dance, live music, DJ’s and a real-time dance link-up with New York. Thursday 30 SEPTEMBER– Saturday 2 October
Contact Theatre
The Manchester Weekender 1–3 October 2010 For more details go to www.creativetourist.com/ weekender
above left: Lian Stewart in Self Made above right: Jonathan Franzen opposite page: Shrink
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PRIME CUTS: OCTOBER–JANUARY Events this autumn & winter Highlights of what’s on across England’s Northwest
UNTIL 26 September 2010
Dürer and Italy Lady Lever Art Gallery, Wirral T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/ism
Exhibition of engraved classics by the German master print maker Albrecht Dürer, one of the great Renaissance artists, shown alongside works by his Italian contemporaries. Until 26 September 2010
Tatton Park Biennial Tatton Park, Cheshire T: 01625 374400 W: tattonparkbiennial.org
This second Biennial of contemporary art at Cheshire’s most notable stately home turns the expansive grounds, lakes and gardens into a laboratory for creative experiment and exchange. Over 20 emerging and internationally recognised artists explore our ‘sense of place’ through a diverse range of commissions and installations. Until 26 September 2010
Everyday People by Spencer Tunick The Lowry, Salford Quays T: 0843 208 6000 W: thelowry.com
Until 12 September 2010
Until 16 September 2010
Beyond the Boundary
Pennine Lancashire Festival of Food & Culture
International Slavery Museum, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4499 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/ism
Get your silly mid on at this exhibition exploring the relationship between culture, class, and the game of cricket. As well as being a legacy of British imperialism, cricket has also been a means of resistance against it, with historic and contemporary stars of the game helping to hit racism for six.
above: Kate MccGwire at Tatton Park Biennial
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Various venues around East Lancashire T: 01254 688040 W: penninelancashirefestivals.com
Celebration of all things foodie with events ranging from culinary canal cruises and pony trekking picnics to steam train lunches, champagne balloon flights, ale trails and brewery tours. Includes the famous World Gravy Wrestling Championships – seriously.
Exhibitionism on a huge scale from the master of the group nude, American artist Spencer Tunick. Taking the mass of working people shown in LS Lowry’s paintings as his inspiration, nude volunteers were taken to eight locations in Salford and Manchester to create his first ever, multi-site installation. The record of this remarkable weekend in film and photography is being exhibited at The Lowry as part of its 10th birthday celebrations. Until 17 October 2010
William Morris: a Sense of Place Blackwell Arts and Crafts House, Bowness-on-Windermere LA23 3JT T: 015394 46139 W: blackwell.org.uk
Treasuring the sense of place created by nature and architecture was a core tenet of the Arts & Crafts movement pioneer, William Morris’s world view. This exhibition charts his take on life through graphic designs, textiles, hand-printed books and photographs of the back-to-nature guru himself.
Until 30 October 2010
Until 31 December 2010
2 – 5 September 2010
The Loneliness of Lowry
White Feather: The Spirit of John Lennon
Mintfest
Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
Mysterious bleak landscapes, desolate seascapes and deserted buildings are the subjects of some of LS Lowry’s most powerful yet lesser-known works and this exhibition examines a different side of the artist who cited his inherent loneliness as one of the main influences on his work. Until 6 November 2010
Industrial Revolutionaries: People who shaped the Modern World Harris Museum & Art Gallery, Preston T: 01772 258 248 W: harrismuseum.org.uk
Major new exhibition looking at the issues that were preoccupying the citizens of the industrial revolution 150 years ago and how these issues are echoed in 2010, from employee/worker relations, child labour and the need for temperance, to the surprise results of elections.
The Beatles Story, Liverpool T: 0151 7091963 W: beatlesstory.com
Liverpool’s favourite son (with apologies to Macca) is remembered in the 70th anniversary year of his birth in this intimate exhibition bringing together the personal memories of his first wife Cynthia and his eldest son Julian, presented for the first time through a mix of personal interviews, family photos and previously unseen memorabilia. Until 3 January 2011
Endurance: Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure Merseyside Maritime Museum, Liverpool T: 0151 478 4499 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Exhibition chronicling the incredible real life tale of survival of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s 1914 Endurance expedition. Featuring compelling photographs of the ordeal taken by ship’s photographer Frank Hurley and accompanied by gripping memoirs from the voyage.
Until 28 November 2010
Until 12 June 2011
Elizabeth Gaskell Bicentenary Celebrations
Savage Grandeur & Noblest Thoughts
Various venues, Cheshire and Manchester W: thegaskellsociety.co.uk
Wordsworth Museum & Art Gallery, Grasmere T: 015394 35544 W: wordsworth.org.uk
The 200th anniversary of the birth of the author of Cranford is the excuse for this year-long celebration of all things Gaskell. There are walking tours around her home town of Knutsford (the ‘real Cranford’) plus exhibitions, talks and performances around the fashion, music and politics of her times.
The Lake District has been a place of great beauty for millennia, so why was it not discovered by fashionable society until Wordsworth and his contemporaries shone their artistic spotlight on it? This exhibition explores how the Napoleonic Wars forced people to holiday closer to home and the role that the Romantic poets and artists played in inventing the ‘staycation’.
Various venues, Kendal T: 01539 720252 W: lakesalive.org
Kendal’s international festival of street arts and theatre offers everything from the completely inspirational to the fantastically bizarre. Over 200 performers descend on this pretty Lake District market town for four action-packed days that bring its streets and parks alive with performance. 3 September – 7 November 2010
Blackpool Illuminations Promenade, Blackpool W: visitblackpool.com
The biggest free light show on earth has been pulling the crowds since 1879, but you’ll be pleased to hear it’s had a serious makeover since then. Best way to enjoy the spectacle is to grab a bag of chips and hop on an open top tram along the promenade. 4 September 2010
Pride and Prejudice Tatton Park, Cheshire T: 01625 374400 W: tattonpark.org.uk
Outdoor theatre company Illyria bring you Jane Austen at her vibrant and witty best in the glorious setting of Tatton Park. 9 – 12 September 2010
Heritage Open Days Various venues across the Northwest T: 0844 3351884 W: heritageopendays.org.uk
National festival celebrating architecture and culture that, for one weekend only, opens the doors of fascinating places that are normally closed to the public. Venues include the Salford Lads Club (take note Mozzer fans), the Port of Liverpool Building, Lancaster Castle and many more.
left to right: Portrait of Albrecht Dürer by Hollar; William Morris; Mintfest
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1 – 4 October 2010
Rossendale Walking Festival Rossendale, Lancashire W: ruralrossendale.co.uk
Exercise and indulgence combine to make a guilt-free treat as this year’s festival features a host of aptly named ‘foodie’ walks such as The Fudge Trudge, Swish and Chips and The Black Pudding Plod, taking in the best of the Rossendale Valley’s food producers. 1 – 3 October 2010
The Manchester Weekender Various venues, Manchester W: creativetourist.com/weekender
9 September – 9 December 2010
18 September – 28 November 2010
25 September – 3 October 2010
Bed-In at the Bluecoat
Liverpool Biennial
Ullswater Outdoor Festival
Bluecoat, Liverpool T: 0151 702 5324 W: thebluecoat.org.uk
Various venues, Liverpool T: 0151 709 7444 W: biennial.com
Various locations around Ullswater W: ullswater.com
Part of a series of events across Liverpool celebrating the 70th birthday of John Lennon (and the 30th anniversary of his death), this performance art homage to John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s famous Bed-In for peace sees artists and the public perform together each day in 62 events over 62 days on the bed.
One of the world’s biggest contemporary art jamborees outside Venice, the Biennial is living proof of Liverpool’s seemingly insatiable appetite for contemporary art. The always intriguing shows are staged all over the city – in galleries, museums, studios, and on the streets – and aim to introduce new audiences to the latest up-and-coming artists and contemporary art trends. See feature on page 4 for more details.
Reckoned by many to be England’s most beautiful lake, this nine-day festival has something for all exertion levels, from woodland trails and steamer rides to mountain biking, kayaking and remote peak ascents.
10 September – 12 September 2010
World Fireworks Championship Blackpool Promenade W: visitblackpool.com
The crème de la crème of the world’s firework elite gather in Blackpool every year to see who can elicit the biggest ‘wow’ from the spectators with their astonishing pyrotechnic displays. This year’s event features winners from previous years’ contests in a ‘Champion of Champions’ extravaganza. 11 September 2010 – 9 January 2011
Rafael Lozano-Hemmer Manchester Art Gallery, Manchester T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.org
Highly-respected Mexican-Canadian electronic artist who produces large-scale interactive installations using robotics, projections and other devices to create dynamic pieces that use the captured voices, actions and thoughts of visitors as part of the works themselves. As a rising star in the contemporary art world and an international Biennial circuit favourite, the world premierè of his new large-scale installation, People on People, specially commissioned for this exhibition, is bound to attract much critical attention.
24 September – 13 November 12 September – 19 September 2010
15 September 2010
Liverpool Food & Drink Festival
Libor Pešek conducts Dvořák’s New World Symphony
Various venues, Liverpool T: 0151 522 9362 W: liverpoolfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk
Philharmonic Hall, Liverpool T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com
Liverpool shows off its culinary chops in a week devoted to all things foodie. Try ‘Speed dining’, where you can go from restaurant to restaurant and try bite size portions of their specialities in each one. 11 September 2010
BBC Proms in the Park Buile Hill Park, Salford T: 0844 815 7131 W: bbc.co.uk/proms/2010/promsinthepark
The award-winning BBC Philharmonic brings the outdoor Proms season to an end with a Last Night of flags and fireworks in the lovely setting of Salford’s Buile Hill Park. Star of the show is the queen of the showtune himself, Mr John Barrowman.
above, left to right: The Land Between Us; Rafael Lozano-Hemmer
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Everyone loves Dvořák’s ‘New World’ Symphony (Hovis ad included), but expect it to be played with even more verve and passion than usual as the legendary Czech conductor Libor Pešek returns to his old orchestra, the Liverpool Phil, to bring his uniquely Czech flair to this great Czech symphony. 18 September – 28 November 2010
Sedition Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery, Carlisle T: 01228 618718 W: tulliehouse.co.uk
Exhibition of the best work currently being produced in Cumbria by established and emerging artists. Features sculpture, photography, installation, film and live art by over 20 artists who put innovation and experimentation at the heart of what they do.
My Generation — The Glory Years of British Rock Grundy Art Gallery, Blackpool T: 01253 478170 W: grundyartgallery.com
First regional outing for this V&A-initiated exhibition of over 200 celebrity photographs produced by Harry Goodwin, the resident photographer at the BBC’s Top of The Pops from its very first transmission in 1964 through to 1973. Iconic images include a shocked Bob Dylan temporarily blinded by Harry’s flash in punishment for his grumpiness, Paul McCartney pouring tea and a dramatic shot of Jimi Hendrix playing the guitar with his teeth. 25 September 2010
Chester Races Summer Finale The Roodee, Chester T: 01244 304610 W: chester-races.co.uk
Chester finishes off the summer with a race event that has everything a race event should have – top-flight gee-gees, fabulous outfits and lots of bubbly. Fancy a flutter?
25 September – 26 June 2011
China: Journey to the East Manchester Museum, Manchester T: 0161 275 2634 W: museum.manchester.ac.uk
This major British Museum show spans 3,000 years of Chinese history and culture and explores one of the most influential civilisations in world history, looking at themes of beliefs, performance, technology, food and drink, language and writing. 25 September – 23 January 2011
The Land Between Us: Power, place and dislocation Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester T: 0161 275 7450 W: whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
This exhibition brings together historic and contemporary art to explore present day notions of landscape and identity. Works by contemporary artists such as Larissa Sansour. Olafur Eliasson, Cyprien Gaillard and Nikhil Chopra are juxtaposed with works from the Whitworth’s extensive historic collection, from William Holman Hunt to Samuel Palmer and JMW Turner. This will be the first time that the Whitworth’s 50 Turner watercolours have been exhibited together.
Showcase of Manchester’s eclectic art and culture scene that coincides with the launch of the AND Festival (see below) and promises 48 hours of some of the most unusual cultural experiences found anywhere in the UK. This series of one-off, intimate events will pair international artists, musicians, festivals and writers with some of the city’s most beautiful and unused settings. See feature on page 8 for more details. 1 – 7 October 2010
AND Festival Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 200 1530 W: andfestival.co.uk
Short for Abandon Normal Devices, AND is a festival that’s been building up steam around the Northwest for the last couple of years before arriving in Manchester for its 2010 iteration. Celebrating new cinema and digital culture, AND spills from the screens and galleries into the streets of Manchester, allowing audiences to see new perspectives and interact with ideas in a festival where the artistic criteria is to question the normal. This year’s event features the UK premierè of Turner Prize-winner Gillian Wearing’s first feature film and Lawrence Malstaf ’s intriguing art installation Shrink. See feature on page 8 for more details. 1 – 11 October 2010
Manchester Food & Drink Festival Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 839 3461 W: foodanddrinkfestival.com
Drawing together Greater Manchester’s wealth of talent in producing, making and selling food and drink, this gastrofest is now in its 11th year. Expect the streets and squares of the city to come alive with events to titillate your taste buds.
above, left to right: China: Journey to the East; Jimi Hendrix in My Generation
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13 – 17 October 2010
15 October – 15 December 2010
19 – 23 October 2010
22 October – 24 October 2010
Chapter & Verse
The Barber Goes North
ENRON
North West Food Lovers Festival
The Bluecoat, Liverpool T: 0151 702 5324 W: thebluecoat.org.uk
Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
The Lowry, Salford Quays T: 0843 208 6000 W: thelowry.com
Tatton Park and various venues, Cheshire T: 01244 355474 W: nwfoodloversfestival.com
Five packed days of readings, conversations, storytelling, debates, workshops and poetry slams exploring the idea of ‘A New England’ in the new post-election environment. Featuring Brian Patten, Frank Cottrell Boyce, Shami Chakrabati, Polly Toynbee, Shappi Khorshandi and many more.
The Barber Institute is famed for its collection of Old Master paintings and its magnificent works on paper. This two-month outing to the Lake District features a rarely seen selection of Old Master drawings, including fine works by Tintoretto, Rubens, Rembrandt and Degas, plus German Expressionist prints and drawings by Max Beckmann, Käthe Kollwitz and others.
Transferring to The Lowry after receiving stonking reviews in both the West End and on Broadway, this Rupert Goold-directed production mixes classical tragedy with savage comedy in what now seems like a prophetic morality tale about the world’s financial meltdown.
Get the taste buds tingling for two weeks of foodie events involving restaurants and fine food stores across Cheshire, culminating in two days at Tatton Park when over 120 food and drink stalls will tempt you with top quality regional produce to see, taste and buy.
21 – 31 October 2010
Invitation to the Ballet
14 October 2010
Sir Mark Elder and the Hallé The Bridgewater Hall, Manchester T: 0161 907 9000 W: halle.co.uk
8 October – 1 November 2010
9 October 2010
Farmageddon
John Lennon Song Book 70th Birthday
Farmer Ted’s Farm Park, Flatman’s Lane, Ormskirk, Lancashire L39 7HW T: 0844 8000 400 W: farmageddon.co.uk
Farmer Ted has shown an award-winning bit of innovation in turning his bit of rural Lancashire into a full-on spookfest for the witching month of October. Two huge walkthrough houses of horror called Terror on the Farm and Insanity promise to prey on your senses and embody all your worst nightmares in what was voted Lancashire’s best tourism experience last year. Shows a wonderfully self-deprecating touch, describing itself as ‘forged in Hell but conveniently located just off the Formby bypass’. 8 October – 13 November 2010
Antony & Cleopatra Liverpool Playhouse, Liverpool T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
Watch out chaps – Samantha’s in town! Kim Cattrall returns to the city of her birth to play the simmering Shakespearean siren. Jeffrey Kissoon is the actor man enough to take her on as Antony with the directing honours being taken by Janet Suzman, herself one of the legendary stage Cleopatras of yesteryear. 9 October – 9 December 2010
John Lennon Tribute Season Various venues, Liverpool T: 0151 709 1963 W: beatlesstory.com
Two-month cultural programme marking 70 years since Lennon’s birth and 30 years since his untimely death. Events include Lennon Remembered, a major tribute concert at the 11,000 seat Echo Arena, a birthday celebration at the world famous Cavern Club, plus a Lennon-inspired international poetry competition, film festival, lecture programme and visual art exhibitions. 16
Liverpool Philharmonic, Liverpool T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com
Kicking off Liverpool’s two-month Lennonathon is this evening of his classic songs performed by the city’s on-form symphony orchestra, the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic. 12 October 2010
The Planets in High Definition Bridgewater Hall, Manchester T: 0161 907 9000 W: bridgewater-hall.co.uk
Holst’s evocative Planets Suite gets a stellar makeover as the Houston Symphony Orchestra perform the symphonic version as a live accompaniment to HD footage of images from NASA missions such as the Mars Rover, Voyagers 1&2, Mariner 10, Magellan and Galileo. Literally out of this world. 13 – 15 October 2010
In The City Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 242 6899 W: inthecity.co.uk
One of the most enduring bits of the late, great Anthony Wilson’s legacy is this music industry event that sees Manchester packed full of A&R men for the weekend, looking for the next big musical thing in the city’s pubs and clubs. Over the past 15 years, In the City has helped launch the careers of bands like Oasis, Radiohead, Coldplay and the Foo Fighters and has hosted some now legendary gigs, including ones by The Chemical Brothers, Daft Punk, Arctic Monkeys and many more.
English classical music is a fundamental part of the Hallé’s DNA, so the orchestra should be playing at the peak of its powers as two of England’s greatest composers are celebrated in this programme featuring Elgar’s Violin Concerto and Vaughan Williams’ London Symphony. 14-17 October 2010
Kiteival
18 – 31 October 2010
Shell Chester Literature Festival Various venues, Chester T: 0845 2417868 W: chesterfestivals.co.uk
Celebrating the written and spoken word with an ensemble of literary personalities, local authors and poets.
Manchester Comedy Festival Various venues, Manchester W: manchestercomedyfestival.co.uk
10th year of this annual chucklefest which sees the best national and local comedians performing across the pubs and clubs of the city. Mark Watson and Frankie Boyle are two of the big names announced so far.
above left: Farmageddon; Kim Cattrall below: Invitation to the Ballet; Käthe Kollwitz’s Help Russia in The Barber Goes North; ENRON
23 October 2010 – 6 March 2011 The Lowry, Salford Quays T: 0843 208 6000 W: thelowry.com
The phenomenal archive of the Royal Ballet gets a rare airing in this major exhibition telling the story of the company’s origins, starting from when Ninette de Valois first brought ballet to Britain, right up to present day ballet superstars such as Carlos Acosta. Archive photos, film footage and a superb selection of costumes from epic performances such as Dame Margot Fonteyn’s Firebird make this a real treat for dance fans.
North Shore Promenade, Blackpool T: 01305 813555 W: britishkitesurfingassociation.co.uk
Blackpool’s North Shore is the location for this year’s finals of the British Kite Surfing Association’s Championship competition. Categories include kite landboarding, kite surfing and kite buggy racing, with over 100 competitors taking to the sands and seas. 14 – 25 October 2010
Manchester Literature Festival Various venues, Manchester T: 0161 236 5555 W: manchesterliteraturefestival.co.uk
Annual literary love-in with the best writers and poets de nos jours. This year’s stellar line-up includes Bernard Cornwell, Carol Ann Duffy, Seamus Heaney, Lionel Shriver and Jeanette Winterson, plus a range of events marking the bicentenary of Cranford author Elizabeth Gaskell. 15 – 31 October 2010
Bollington Walking Festival: Various locations, Bollington, Cheshire W: cheshirepeakdistrict.com
Two-week festival of enjoyable walks (many of which are very fortuitously focussed around public houses) exploring the scenery, heritage and wildlife of this glorious part of Cheshire’s Peak District, known locally as Happy Valley. Art, music and food events are thrown in for good measure. 17
23 October 2010 – 2 May 2011
18 November – 21 December 2010
Death and the Working Class
Christmas Markets
People’s History Museum, Manchester T: 0161 838 9190 W: phm.org.uk
Various locations, Manchester city centre T: 0161 234 7356 W: manchestermarkets.com
It may not sound like a laugh, a joke, a song, but this fascinating exhibition charts how funeral traditions and customs have changed over the last 200 years, exploring how people’s notion of a ‘good send off’ has evolved as our culture and society have developed.
Don your Santa hat, dust off the mulled wine glass and get into the festive spirit as Manchester’s streets and squares get lined with chalets selling mulled wine, bratwurst and an eclectic international selection of Christmas goodies. European-style markets happen all over the UK now, but Manchester’s really is one of the biggest and best.
26 October 2010
Die Fledermaus Capesthorne Hall, Macclesfield, Cheshire T: 01772 451991 W: heritageopera.co.uk
This distinctive Jacobean-style house set in over 100 acres of parkland is the venue for a performance of Johann Strauss II’s operetta by touring company Heritage Opera, renowned for its operatic performances in statelies across the Northwest.
Lennon Remembered Echo Arena, Liverpool T: 0844 8000 400 W: echoarena.com
The culmination of Liverpool’s Lennon celebrations, expect an emotional outpouring at this charity tribute concert featuring yetto-be-named ‘musical stars from all eras’.
1 – 30 November 2010
10 December 2010 – 13 February 2011
Homotopia
Underwater
Various venues, Liverpool T: 0151 702 7369 W: homotopia.net
The Bluecoat, Liverpool T: 0151 702 5324 W: thebluecoat.org.uk
Liverpool’s annual festival of lesbian and gay art and culture has grown to cover a month of art, film, theatre, dance, debate and cabaret.
Exhibition focussing on artists’ relationships with the deep, featuring works by an international line up including Bill Viola, Ellen Gallagher and Dorothy Cross. Accompanied by a Bluecoat commission from Mark Anstee that involves a lifesize submarine installed in the Bluecoat’s dramatic Vide space.
10 – 14 November 2010
Salford Film Festival Various venues, Salford T: 0161 834 3537 W: salfordfilmfestival.org.uk
Now in its seventh year, this film festival with attitude always presents a wonderful mix of international premierès, local community films, cutting edge new shorts and difficult to see cult classics. 18 – 21 November 2010
Kendal Mountain Festival Various venues, Kendal, Cumbria T: 01539 725133 W: mountainfest.co.uk
Festival devoted to all things vertical, from film, books and art photography to humour and drama. This internationally-renowned craghoppers convention attracts top adventurers, climbers, writers and film-makers from around the world. 18 November – 2 December 2010
NICE Festival Various venues, Manchester W: nice-festival.com
This annual Northwest festival presents the best in collaborative creative work between the UK and Nordic countries with participants coming from Finland, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, Sweden, Norway and Denmark. 18
9 December 2010
17 December 2010 – 13 March 2011
Nam June Paik Tate Liverpool & FACT, Liverpool T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk
Video artist, performer and composer Nam June Paik was considered to be one of the most innovative artists of the twentieth century with his work in video seen as paving the way for the ‘MTV generation’. This first major retrospective in the UK offers a definitive look at Paik’s body of work, presenting works from all phases of his career, many shown in the UK for the first time. A number of large scale, sculptural works from Paik’s later career are being shown simultaneously at FACT, Liverpool’s Foundation for Art and Creative Technology.
DIARY DATES FOR 2011 18 – 27 February 2011
Manchester
Showzam Various venues, Blackpool T: 01253 478222 W: showzam.co.uk
There’s no better place for a festival of circus, magic and the interestinglynamed ‘new variety’ than Blackpool. The popularity of contemporary performance troupes such as Cirque Du Soleil have opened the eyes of a new generation to the world of greasepaint and trapezes. Showzam showcases the best international performers across a range of venues including the iconic Blackpool Tower and Ballroom.
THE ESSENTIAL LIST Page 20 How to get here and where to stay, eat and drink...
THE CULTURE LIST Page 24 Everything you need to know about museums, heritage, galleries, theatres and venues...
February – May 2011
Relaunch of Open Eye Gallery Open Eye Gallery, Liverpool T: 0151 709 9460 W: openeye.org.uk
The Northwest’s premier photography gallery moves to a new home on Liverpool’s waterfront with a planned programme of cutting-edge international exhibitions that will make it one of the UK’s leading photography spaces. 30 June – 17 July 2011
Manchester International Festival 2011 Various venues, Manchester T: 0844 815 4960 W: mif.co.uk
2011 may only be the third Manchester International Festival but it already feels like a firm fixture in the world’s premier league. Under the directorship of Alex Poots, this festival of firsts presents a heady brew of new work, one off performances and unusual collaborations by some of the world’s leading creative minds. Definitely one to look out for. End 2011
Museum of Liverpool Pier Head, Liverpool W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
This head-turning piece of new contemporary architecture on Liverpool’s waterfront is the biggest newly-built national museum in the UK for over a century. Due to open towards the end of 2011, its 8,000 sqm of public space will be solely devoted to the history, character and people of Liverpool, from its impact on world trade and the opening up of the Americas to its huge influence on the world of popular culture. 19
THE ESSENTIALS: Manchester
Manchester’s history as the world’s ‘original modern’ city is writ large on its impressive Victorian streets, now juxtaposed with thoroughly up-to-the-minute shards of steel and glass as the city’s skyline comes over all Manhattan. But this contemporary attitude is still mixed with the down-to-earth humour and genuine, no-nonsense approach to life that you’d expect in the city that’s consistently shown that there are no limits to its imagination or its ambition. There’s a buzz about the place that makes it as vibrant and immediate as any European capital. Manchester is now the ideal destination for the cosmopolitan weekender, with its distinctive tram system making the city really easy to get around and its rich selection of museums, galleries and theatres ensuring that you’ll never be short of things to see and do.
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left to right:
Spinningfields; Chetham’s School of Music; Northern Quarter; City Inn; The Quays; Velvet Manchester
GETTING HERE
PLACES TO STAY
Hilton Manchester
ABode Manchester
Velvet Manchester
By plane
The Lowry Hotel
303 Deansgate M3 4LQ T: 0161 870 1600 W: hilton.co.uk/manchester
107 Piccadilly M1 2DB T: 0161 247 7744 W: abodehotels.co.uk/manchester
2 Canal Street M1 3HE T: 0161 236 9003 W: velvetmanchester.com
One of the top 20 airports in the world, you can fly into Manchester from over 190 worldwide destinations. There’s a direct rail service every 10 minutes into the city centre that takes about 20 minutes, or alternatively you can take a cab for the approximately nine-mile trip.
By train
On the west coast mainline service from London to Glasgow – services are frequent so one of Mr Branson’s Pendolinos will get you to Manchester from London in just over two hours. There are frequent direct trains from Manchester to Liverpool, so you can sample a bit of what both cities have to offer without too much difficulty.
By road
Manchester’s at the centre of the extensive Northwest motorway network so it’s easy to get at from all sides of the country. London’s about a three-hour drive and you can nip down the M62 to Liverpool, just 35 miles away, in no time at all.
GET THE INFO… W: visitmanchester.com T: 0871 222 8223
50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf M3 5LH T: 0161 827 4000 W: thelowryhotel.com
Manchester’s first five-star hotel is actually located on the Salford side of the River Irwell, where the clean white exterior of one of Rocco Forte’s landmark hotels fits perfectly against the sweeping curves of Santiago Calatrava’s Trinity Bridge. All the comfort and mod cons you’d expect, plus a luxury spa and the opportunity to spot the celebs who’ve been performing at the nearby MEN Arena as they hang out in the chic riverside bar after their gigs.
Radisson Edwardian Free Trade Hall, Peter Street M2 5GP T: 0161 835 9929 W: radissonedwardian.com
Five star luxury in one of Manchester’s landmark historic buildings. Built originally as a paean to the principals of free trade and democracy, the Free Trade Hall spent most of its life as a concert venue, being both the home of the Hallé Orchestra and the place where the Sex Pistols played a memorable gig. Its reincarnation as a contemporary hotel has been handled sensitively, with the musical theme pervading its suites, restaurants and bars.
Cast your eye over Manchester’s evolving cityscape from Beetham Tower, the gleaming glass edifice that punctuates the city skyline. The bottom half is given over to the Hilton Manchester, whose cool, Scandinavian-esque look and top-notch facilities bagged it a place on Condé Nast Traveller’s hotlist for 2007. Take the trip up to the lush cocktail bar on the 23rd floor for giddying panoramic views over the city and the countryside beyond.
The Midland Hotel Peter Street M60 2DS T: 0161 236 3333 W: qhotels.co.uk
This stately red brick edifice is Manchester’s traditional landmark hotel, dating from 1903. A Grade II-listed building, it’s been brought up to date for the 21st century, ensuring that every luxury is readily available, whilst still keeping its stately sense of history.
Crowne Plaza 70 Shudehill M4 4AF T: 0161 828 8600 W: cpmanchester.com
Shiny new modern hotel which is in a great location, right on the edge of the Northern Quarter. Very conveniently located for Exchange Square and ideal if you’re attending an event at the Manchester Evening News Arena. The on-site restaurant, the Glasshouse comes highly recommended too.
Chic, contemporary refurbishment of a Victorian cotton merchant’s warehouse and part of chef Michael Caines’ hotel empire. The eponymous MC restaurant on the hotel’s lower floor has upped the city’s dining ante with its sublime modern British cooking
Situated at the more chilled end of Manchester’s gay village, Velvet has been one of Canal Street’s best destinations for food and drink for over a decade. The new addition of 19 New York loft-style bedrooms in the adjacent Velvet Hotel means you don’t have far to walk home.
City Inn Manchester
Atrium by Bridgestreet
1 Piccadilly Place, 1 Auburn Street M1 3DG T: 0161 228 0008 W: cityinn.com
If you like your hotels simple, stylish and contemporary then the City Inn is an ideal choice. It’s in a very handy location, connected by a curving footbridge to Piccadilly station, with a great restaurant where, weather permitting, you can dine al-fresco. Try a cocktail or two in the comfy booths in the bar.
Malmaison Manchester 1–3 Piccadilly M1 1LZ T: 0161 278 1000 W: malmaison.com
Housed in a Grade I-listed Edwardian warehouse, this smart and somewhat theatrical hotel has all the touches you’d expect from a Mal. Well located near Piccadilly station and close to Canal Street, the interior is all rich colours, plush carpets and velvet cushions, producing a suitably seductive mood for cocktail hour.
SA 74 Princess Street, Manchester M1 6JD T: 0161 235 2000 W: atriumapartmentsmanchester.com
Conveniently located apartment-hotel, this conversion of one of Manchester’s typical redbrick warehouses has retained many original Victorian features although not at the expense of comfort and contemporary style.
Staying Cool
SA & Castlefield, Manchester Central and Cathedral Quarter T: 0161 832 4060 W: stayingcool.com
These chic, serviced apartments are located in a number of good spots across the city and provide boutique self-catering accommodation with first class hotel-type services. Each one is individually designed with great attention to detail and you even get an Elle Decoration-style lowdown on all the design features should you take a fancy to the soft furnishings. 21
PLACES TO EAT
Red Chilli
The Briton’s Protection
The River Bar & Restaurant
70–72 Portland Street, Manchester M1 4GU T: 0161 236 2888 W: redchillirestaurant.co.uk
50 Great Bridgewater Street M1 5LE T: 0161 236 5895
Specialising in Beijing and Szechuan cuisine, this Chinatown eatery is a favourite of food critic Jay Rayner. Highly authentic food, including menu items such as sautéed whelk, pig intestines and Mrs Spotty’s beancurd.
Historic pub with an epic whisky selection where you can rub shoulders with the Hallé’s brass section as they nip out the back of The Bridgewater Hall for an interval half.
Mr Thomas’s Chop House
127 Great Bridgewater Street M1 5JQ T: 0161 236 6364
The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place Chapel Wharf, Salford M3 5LH T: 0161 827 4041 W: theriverrestaurant.com
Beautiful surroundings, exceptional food and impeccable service – everything you’d expect from Manchester’s (or rather Salford’s – it’s on the other side of the River Irwell) first five-star hotel. Recently saw off the competition to win the 2010 Taste of Manchester award.
MC Restaurant ABode Hotel, 107 Piccadilly M1 2DB T: 0161 247 7744 W: abodehotels.co.uk
This eponymous venture from Michael Caines, the two-starred Michelin chef, has upped the city’s dining ante with its sublime modern British cooking.
Harvey Nicks Brasserie 21 New Cathedral Street M1 1AD T: 0161 828 8888 W: harveynichols.com
The second floor of this shopping mecca offers great brasserie food, plus an awardwinning restaurant with panoramic views over Exchange Square.
Yang Sing 34 Princess Street M1 4JY T: 0161 236 2200
Frequently cited as the best Chinese restaurant in Europe, this Manchester institution has a vast 300-dish menu – the best plan is just to say ‘feed me’ and let them bring you the day’s specialities.
Grado New York Street, Piccadilly M1 4BD T: 0161 238 9790 W: heathcotes.co.uk
This offering from Lancashire gastropreneur Paul Heathcote is a surprisingly authentic tapas bar and restaurant with a wine list of over 100 Spanish specialities. Muy bien.
52 Cross Street M2 7AR T: 0161 832 2245
Peveril of the Peak
One of the best wine lists in town, all the better to wash down the exemplary English food which yes, does include chops. Stonking portions so make sure you arrive hungry.
This gem of a pub is well worth seeking out. The splendidly tiled green exterior is matched by the splendid ales on offer inside.
Ning
11 Bloom Street, Salford M3 6AN T: 0161 862 3605 W: studiosalford.com
92–94 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter M4 1LJ T: 0161 238 9088 W: ningcatering.com
Ning serves a fantastic range of fresh and aromatic South East Asian food. Reckoned by some to have the best Pad Thai this side of Bangkok.
Bread & Butter 66 Tib Street, Manchester M4 1LG
All retro bric-a-brac and mismatched china, this friendly café is all about unpretentious tasty food and good home cooking. Their piadinas – hot sandwiches made in filled italian flatbread – are a real bargain and their cakes are homemade and taste like it.
PLACES TO DRINK Northern Quarter
By day it’s the place to shop for hip vintage clothing, vinyl and crafts, by night it’s got a range of individualistic bars, from the laidback quirkiness of Odd, Trof, Common and the latest Marble Beer house venture on Thomas Street to Bluu, Walrus (good for a boogie) and the hard-to-find cocktail mecca Socio Rehab (it’s on Edge Street).
The Kings Arms As much a cultural hub as a pub, this Salford boozer’s upper floor plays host to new theatre, gigs and film nights, while the ground floor snug is home to a weekly knitting club.
NoHo Stevenson Square, Northern Quarter M1 1FB T: 0161 236 5381 W: noho-bar.com
This quirky independent is set in a roomy Grade-II listed building with parquet floors and floor to ceiling windows. Street artsplashed walls and good cocktails.
Black Dog Ballroom 43 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter M1 1JG T: 0161 839 0664 W: blackdogballroom.co.uk
A mixture of speakeasy, diner and poolbar, this little slice of downtown New York is located under the iconic Affleck’s Palace. The food service runs until 1am, which is a bonus! below: Mr Thomas’s Chop House; the gardens
at Chetham’s School of Music; various locations, Northern Quarter. opposite: Wheel of Manchester; Manchester Craft & Design Centre
THINGS TO SEE
Wheel of Manchester
Chill Factore
Manchester Town Hall
Exchange Square M3 1BD T: 0161 831 9918 W: worldtouristattractions.co.uk
Trafford Way, Trafford Quays M41 7JA T: 0161 749 2222 W: chillfactore.com
OK, so it might not be quite the size of the London Eye, but you still get a fabulous view over the city from this 60m-high big wheel.
The UK’s first complete Alpine ski village looks like it landed from outer space on the edge of the M60. You can ski, board, tube or just have a snowball fight at the country’s longest real snow indoor ski slope, followed by the full-on après-ski experience in a myriad of bars and restaurants.
Albert Square M60 2LE T: 0161 234 5000
Feast your eyes on this gothic glory that is a testament to Victorian civic pride. Wonderful arched ceilings and mosaic floors with symbolism built into every stonework cornice and stained glass window. Doubles as the Houses of Parliament in many a TV drama.
Chetham’s School of Music Long Millgate M3 1SB T: 0161 834 9644
Originally founded in the 15th century, this remarkable collection of buildings is one of Manchester’s hidden jewels. It’s got a 17th century quadrangle that wouldn’t look out of place in Oxford or Cambridge, a medieval banqueting hall and the oldest library in the English-speaking world.
John Rylands Library 150 Deansgate M3 3EH T: 0161 306 0555 W: manchester.ac.uk/library
One of the real gems of Manchester’s architectural history, this fantastic Grade I-listed piece of Victorian high gothic has undergone a £16.8million refurbishment, creating a new visitor centre to enhance access to its rare and fascinating collections.
Chinatown George Street, Charlotte Street
Have a browse through fascinating shops, supermarkets and Chinese bakeries – best day to visit is Sunday when the Northwest Chinese community descend en masse to shop and eat dim sum.
Canal Street
The UK’s original gay village is still one of the most exciting areas of the city, with a range of bars and cafés running along the canalside. 22
The Quays T: 0161 848 8601 W: thequays.org.uk
Hop on one of Manchester’s distinctive trams for a trundle out to The Quays – just 15 minutes outside the city centre and you’re in a whole different landscape of big water, big skies and big buildings, including The Lowry and Imperial War Museum North.
THINGS TO DO Northern Quarter
Colloquially known as Manchester’s creative quarter due to its concentration of designers, artist and musicians, it may not be the ritziest part of the city centre but it’s certainly one of the most interesting. A stroll around the quirky streets will reward you with eclectic record shops, vintage and specialist clothes stores, bohemian bars and eateries. Also home to the Manchester Craft and Design Centre, the Manchester Buddhist Centre and the Manchester institution that is Afflecks. Definitely not mainstream.
Exchange Square
A shoppers’ haven with Harvey Nichols and Selfridges all within a stiletto’s totter of each other. There are a number of handy eateries, such as Zinc Brasserie and Manchester’s favourite noodle bar, Tampopo, plus the quirky Future Systems’ design of Selfridges’ food hall houses a variety of differently themed food counters to perch at for a chilled glass of wine and a mid-retail therapy bite-to-eat.
Guided walks T: 0871 222 8223
Discover the city’s secret corners with a range of guided walks that take you everywhere from up the Town Hall bell tower to down below the city streets tracing the history of the Rochdale canal. There are topic-driven options too, including a tour devoted to Mancunian inventions and one to the history of the city’s radical politics.
THINGS TO BUY
Old and obscure vinyl, vintage clothing, Manchester United memorabilia, designer labels.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… Stockport Air Raid Shelters Chestergate, Stockport SK1 1NE T: 0161 474 1940 W: airraidshelters.org.uk
Experience life as it was during a ‘black out’ in war torn Britain in this labyrinth of tunnels under part of Stockport town centre.
Afflecks 52 Church Street M4 1PW T: 0161 834 2039 W: afflecks.com
A rabbit warren of alternative shops and stalls, selling everything from skateboards and fetish gear to vintage clothing and records.
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THE CULTURE LIST: Manchester
left to right:
Manchester Civil Justice Centre and the People’s History Museum; Cornerhouse; Royal Exchange Theatre
GALLERIES Manchester Art Gallery Mosley Street M2 3JL T: 0161 235 8888 W: manchestergalleries.org
Manchester’s Large Attraction of the Year 2010 shows off the wealth of Manchester’s artistic legacy, including its famous collection of Pre-Raphaelites and a great collection of modern pieces.
The Lowry Pier 8, Salford Quays M50 3AZ T: 0843 208 6000 W: thelowry.com
A high-impact, landmark building that is perfectly set against the vast water and sky background of The Quays at Salford. The Lowry is a whole day out in itself – you get art galleries, two theatres, a gift shop and several restaurants, not to mention the tram ride out there. The University of Manchester, Oxford Road M15 6ER T: 0161 275 7450 W: whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
Great collection of art and design, from watercolours, prints, drawings, modern art and sculpture, including the largest collections of decorative textiles and wallpapers outside London.
Left Bank, Spinningfields M3 3ER T: 0161 838 9190 W: phm.org.uk
Market Buildings, Thomas Street M4 1EU T: 0161 832 7271 W: chinese-arts-centre.org
70 Oxford Street M1 5NH T: 0161 200 1500 W: cornerhouse.org
The best place in the city for contemporary art, sculpture and photography, the Cornerhouse also houses a three-screen arthouse cinema, a fine bar and a welcoming, easy-going café. Celebrating its 25th birthday this year, so expect some special shows to mark the occasion. 24
The Royal Exchange
People’s History Museum
Chinese Arts Centre
Cornerhouse
THEATRES
Oxford Road M13 9PL T: 0161 275 2634 W: manchester.ac.uk/museum
Part of Manchester University, the museum covers all the ‘ologies’ from archaeology to zoology. The original building was the work of Alfred Waterhouse, architect of Manchester Town Hall, with the 2003 refurbishment undertaken by Ian Simpson, architect of the Beetham Tower.
Whitworth Art Gallery
This national showcase for Oriental culture is a great place to catch exhibitions by Chinese artists. The centre’s chilled-out tea shop also provides a little haven of peace and tranquillity in the creative hubbub of the surrounding Northern Quarter.
Manchester Museum
MUSEUMS
Imperial War Museum North
MOSI (Museum of Science and Industry)
The Quays, Trafford M17 1TZ T: 0161 836 4000 W: iwm.org.uk/north
Liverpool Road, Castlefield M3 4FP T: 0161 832 2244 W: mosi.org.uk
As you would expect in the city that kick started the Industrial Revolution, this museum is full of fascinating insights into England’s industrial history and also boasts a great collection of planes, trains, cars and steam engines. A planned £60million refurb, called Revolution Manchester, will see both spaces and exhibits enhanced and updated over the next few years.
The UK’s first building by Daniel Libeskind, IWM North is a real attention-grabber – more like architecture as environmental sculpture. Located on the opposite bank of The Quays to The Lowry, this is another building that uses its waterscape backdrop to sensational effect. On the inside, its thought-provoking exhibitions have won it a prestigious national silver award in the Enjoy England tourism awards 2010.
Recently reopened after a £13million refit and extension, this national museum focuses on the struggle of working people in the UK to achieve democracy, starting with the demands for parliamentary representation that led to the Peterloo Massacre through the struggle for universal suffrage to the political state of the nation in the modern day. Part of the building is a lovingly restored old pumphouse, which sits happily next to the light and airy new architecture of the main galleries. Great new café space overlooking the River Irwell too.
St Ann’s Square M2 7DH T: 0161 833 9833 W: royalexchange.co.uk
Make sure that the Royal Exchange is on your itinerary, if not for one of the consistently top-notch theatrical performances, then just to take in the jaw-dropping, dramatic interior that was once the trading floor of the city’s Cotton Exchange. Good craft shop too.
The Library Theatre St Peter’s Square M2 5PD T: 0161 234 1913 W: librarytheatre.com
Manchester’s Library Theatre is the oldest repertory theatre company in the UK and is renowned for its consistently high quality productions. The refurbishment of its previous home in the city’s Central Library means it’s got a year or two of touring round other Manchester venues as it prepares to move to a new home in the refurbished Theatre Royal.
Greenroom 54-56 Whitworth Street M1 5WW T: 0161 615 0500 W: greenroomarts.org
This hip, experimental performance space is tucked away underneath the railway arches. Consistently avant-garde productions and another good spot for café bar lounging, with regular DJs in the foyer space.
Palace Theatre Oxford Road M1 6FT T: 0161 245 6600 W: livenation.co.uk
The major venue in Manchester for touring West End productions, this is a classic example of the grand temples to variety that were built in the Victorian era – all gilded statues and red plush seating.
Opera House Quay Street M3 3HP T: 0161 828 1700 W: livenation.co.uk
Contact
Slightly smaller sister venue to the Palace, this is another traditional theatre venue, veering more towards opera, ballet and one-off comedy or musical shows.
Oxford Road M15 6JA T: 0161 274 0604 W: contact-theatre.org
The Lowry
Remodelled in 1999, this architecturally madcap building looks almost Gaudi-esque. With a stated mission of catering for the 13–30 age group, the theatrical product veers towards the cutting edge and contemporary, with regular club nights and laid-back DJs.
Pier 8, Salford Quays M50 3AZ T: 0843 208 6000 W: thelowry.com
The Lowry’s two performing spaces provide a strong mix of music, ballet, opera, theatre and comedy.
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MUSIC VENUES
MEN Arena
The Bridgewater Hall
Victoria Station M3 1AR T: 0844 847 8000 W: men-arena.com
Lower Mosley Street, Petersfield M2 3WS T: 0161 907 9000 W: bridgewater-hall.co.uk
The Bridgewater Hall is one of Europe’s best venues for classical music and home to not one but three orchestras: the Hallé (Britain’s oldest professional symphony orchestra), the BBC Philharmonic and the Manchester Camerata. Also good for top-notch visiting international orchestras and soloists, plus a complementary programme of non-classical, jazz and world music artists.
Royal Northern College of Music 124 Oxford Road M13 9RD T: 0161 907 5555 W: rncm.ac.uk
This first-rate musical conservatoire is the place to catch the classical stars of the future, as well as an eclectic mix of classical and contemporary artists.
Band on the Wall 25 Swan Street, Northern Quarter M4 5JZ T: 0161 834 1786 W: bandonthewall.org
Historic and eclectic music venue that has recently re-opened after a major re-fit. Best place in town for jazz, folk and global sounds, plus check out the fab graphic equalizer light artwork on the exterior.
The Deaf Institute 135 Grosvenor Street M1 7HE T: 0161 276 9350 W: thedeafinstitute.co.uk
This gem of a music venue is housed in an actual former institute for the deaf. The perfectly-formed ornate auditorium plays host to everything from the latest touring indie/folkie to full-on Guilty Pleasures sessions on a Saturday night. Complete with glitter ball, little balcony and raked seating behind the dance floor.
The largest indoor arena in Europe, this is the place to catch the Kylies and Justins of this world on their latest blockbusting tour.
Manchester Apollo Stockport Road, Ardwick Green M12 6AP T: 0161 273 6921 W: livenation.co.uk
This big old converted cinema is the venue for those comedy and music gigs that are too big for the Academy and not yet big enough for the MEN Arena.
Academy 1, 2 & 3 Oxford Road M13 9PR T: 0161 275 2930 W: manchesteracademy.net
The three spaces at this University-based venue provide a sliding scale of size to suit wherever a band currently sits on the path from anonymity to fame, or vice versa.
Roadhouse 8 Newton Street M1 2AN T: 0161 237 9789 W: theroadhouselive.co.uk
One of Manchester’s great survivors, this intimate basement venue has been around since Oasis and The Verve were doing their first gigs. A standard stop on any up-andcoming, NME-rated band’s touring itinerary.
Matt & Phred’s 64 Tib Street M4 1LW T: 0161 831 7002 W: mattandphreds.com
Ronnie Scott’s in miniature, this atmospheric Northern Quarter institution is where you can hear jazz of the highest order on most nights well into the early hours. below:
Matt & Phred’s
PRIME VIEW Catharine Braithwaite Director, Lethal Communications
Liverpool
Why I love it
There’s always something happening on the street, making a great counterpoint to the glossy retail offering in the city centre. It’s possible to stumble upon an Art Car Parade, a fantastic independent book, fashion or food market and even a contemporary dance festival taking place on the pavements and in the squares.
THE ESSENTIAL LIST Page 28
THE CULTURE LIST Page 32
How to get here and where to stay, eat and drink...
Everything you need to know about museums, heritage, galleries, theatres and venues...
The Walker Art Gallery
Favourite restaurant
Red Chilli is the best place to sample spicy Chinese cuisine from the North – it’s amazing, steamy and always-packed. I’d recommend Mrs Spotty’s Beancurd, the steamed lily-bulbs and the poached lamb hotpot – be warned, it’s searingly hot and not for wimps! Best view
Manchester isn’t really a city of vistas but it is great for people watching. My favourite spot is Cornerhouse café bar on the first floor. Best shopping/retail experience
I can never resist the temptations found within the Craft and Design Centre. Favourite place to drink
Corridor is located down a street adjacent to The Lowry Hotel. Once you’ve spotted the discreet sign and stepped through the doors into the dimly lit interior, it’s as if you’ve entered a chic and exclusive 80s club. When you’ve sampled the amazing cocktails… it feels like something really special might happen. Hidden gem
The International Antony Burgess Foundation has just opened and with its extensive library and archive containing many of Burgess’ manuscripts and his collections of books, plus a performance venue where they present new work by writers, artists and musicians it’s a must see for fans of the author of A Clockwork Orange. It also has a lovely café. If you do one thing while you’re here…
Try and get on a tour of the Town Hall, as the neo-gothic splendour bears closer inspection. From amazing mosaics of bees and cloister-like vaulted corridors to Ford Maddox Brown’s wonderful murals.
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27
THE ESSENTIALS: Liverpool
After beefing up its cultural credentials with its stint as European Capital of Culture, Liverpool now has a tangibly renewed sense of optimism and self-confidence. A swathe of new hotels, a major new shopping area, a new arena and convention centre — a frenzy of regeneration and artistic activity has resulted in both a rejuvenated city centre and a permanent uplift in Liverpool’s cultural aspirations. Architecturally, Liverpool is a city of statement and grandeur — it boasts more Georgian terraces than Bath and the imposing Victorian warehouses of the city centre are finding new life as boutique hotels and fine restaurants. On top of that, the city is wonderfully compact and easy to get around, and you’d need a heart of stone not to be enchanted by its willfully irreverent wit and bowled over by the warmth of the Liverpudlian welcome. 28
Left: Hilton Liverpool
Left: Hilton Liverpool Right: Malmaison Liverpool
GETTING HERE
PLACES TO STAY
Hilton Liverpool
PLACES TO EAT
The London Carriage Works
By plane
Hope Street Hotel
3 Thomas Steers Way L1 8LW T: 0151 708 4200 W: hilton.co.uk
Alma de Cuba
40 Hope Street L1 9DA T: 0151 705 2222 W: tlcw.co.uk
Liverpool’s John Lennon Airport is situated just eight miles south of the city centre, with flights to and from many major European cities and an express bus operating to take you into the city centre.
By train
Mainline intercity services run into Liverpool Lime Street station from all over the country.
By road
Take the westbound M62 off the M6 motorway and it takes you straight into Liverpool city centre. It is also an umbilical cord joining Liverpool to Manchester, only 35 miles away.
GET THE INFO… Tourist Information Centres
Liverpool Visitor Centre Whitechapel L1 6DZ Albert Dock Tourist Information Centre Anchor Courtyard L3 4AF Liverpool John Lennon Airport Tourist Information Centre Arrival Hall South Terminal L24 1YD Visitor information: T: 0151 233 2008 W: visitliverpool.com Accommodation enquiries: T: 0844 870 0123 W: visitliverpool.com
40 Hope Street L1 9DA T: 0151 709 3000 W: hopestreethotel.co.uk
Hope Street is the elegant Georgian thoroughfare joining the city’s two cathedrals and along its length you’ll find a concert hall (the Philharmonic), a theatre (the Everyman) and a slew of bars and eateries. The hotel occupies a converted 19th century building, and its chic design, impeccable service and classy ambience have previously won it a place in Condé Nast’s list of the Top 50 Coolest Hotels in the World.
Hard Days Night Hotel Central Buildings, 41 North John Street L2 6RR T: 0151 236 1964 W: harddaysnighthotel.com
No prizes for guessing the inspiration behind this new four-star hotel just along the way from the Cavern Club. A refurb of a classic city centre Grade II-listed building, the hotel has an on-site restaurant, bar and art gallery, all featuring specially commissioned artworks celebrating the lives of the Fab Four.
Radisson BLU Liverpool 107 Old Hall Street L3 9BD T: 0151 966 1500 W: radisson.com
Make sure you get a room with a river view to get the best from this well located hotel which boasts cool design and a light-filled atrium inside.
New landmark hotel right at the heart of the remodelled city centre with all the class you’d expect from a Hilton. Right next to the new shopping district, Liverpool ONE, plus spectacular views over the waterfront.
Malmaison Liverpool 7 William Jessop Way, Princes Dock L3 1QZ T: 0151 229 5000 W: malmaison-liverpool.com
Malmaison’s first purpose-built hotel is an elegant addition to the city’s iconic waterfront architecture. All the touches you’d expect, from the plush interior ambience and the ‘place to be seen in’ bar and brasserie.
62 Castle Street 62 Castle Street L2 7LQ T: 0151 702 7898 W: 62castlest.com
Another revamped Victorian edifice in the heart of Liverpool’s city centre, this bijou boutique hotel has 20 generously-sized suites equipped with all mod-cons. The ground floor houses Merchant’s Bar and Restaurant.
Racquet Club Hargreaves Building, 5 Chapel Street L3 9AG T: 0151 236 6676 W: racquetclub.org.uk
This refurbished Victorian gentleman’s club has eight generous rooms designed in the ‘city chic meets country house’ vibe.
St Peters Church, Seel Street L1 4BH T: 0151 702 7394 W: alma-de-cuba.com
The place to be seen for the style-conscious, this Cuban/Miami/Carnival inspired bar and restaurant serves up crafted cocktails and elegant eats in a reinvented former church, with many of the original features incorporated into the new design.
60 Hope Street 60 Hope Street L1 9BZ T: 0151 707 6060 W: 60hopestreet.com
Established gastronomic destination on the Hope Street cultural corridor set over three floors of an old Georgian townhouse. Famed for its seafood and its signature dessert of deep fried jam sandwich with Carnation milk ice cream. There’s also a more informal café/ bar bistro in the basement.
Panoramic West Tower, Brook Street L3 9PJ T: 0151 236 5534 W: panoramicliverpool.com
The name gives it away really. Amazing 360º views of the Liverpool skyline and across to the Irish Sea are on the menu at what is officially Britain’s highest restaurant, towering over the city at 100m above sea level.
Part of the über-chic Hope Street Hotel, this restaurant has attracted rave reviews, including being voted one of the top ten restaurants outside London in the 2005 Harden’s Guide and the 2007 Taste of England Northwest award. Apparently named when construction workers discovered the original sign in the stonework above the entrance during the refurbishment.
Everyman Bistro 5-9 Hope Street L1 9BH T: 0151 708 9545 W: everyman.co.uk
A Liverpool institution, the basement bistro beneath the Everyman Theatre has always been a gathering place for local creative types, attracted to the slightly bohemian ambience and the hearty portions of the fabulous home-made food. It’s great for veggies and the puddings are a special treat.
Ziba Racquet Club, 5 Chapel Street L3 9AG T: 0151 236 6676 W: racquetclub.org.uk
Numerous awards and a place in the Good Food guide are just some of the things that Ziba has going for it. Named after a Liverpool tea clipper, this classy modern British restaurant in the Racquet Club has quietly established a great reputation for its nosh. 29
The Quarter
Delifonseca
PLACES TO DRINK
THINGS TO SEE
Liverpool Cathedral
Mersey Ferries
7 Faulkner Street L8 7PU T: 0151 707 1965
12 Stanley Street L1 6AF T: 0151 255 0808 W: delifonseca.co.uk
The Philharmonic
St George’s Hall
6 Cathedral Close, St James Mount L1 7AZ T: 0151 709 6271 W: liverpoolcathedral.org.uk
T: 0151 330 1444 W: merseyferries.co.uk
Relaxed Italian-style bistro-cum-café, just round the corner from the Liverpool Phil. Pavement tables look out across the wellfilmed Georgian cobbles of Faulkner Street, which has featured as a film set in many a BBC period drama. The menu covers everything from laid-back lunches to coffee, cake and Sunday brunch – apparently even Yoko Ono stopped by for pizza on her last visit to the city.
A little hidden gem – a foodie cornucopia in the city centre that is the place to go if you have a serious cheese fetish. The restaurant is worth a visit too – the chef is ex-London Carriage Works so expect good things.
Chaophraya 5-6 Kenyon Steps, Liverpool ONE L1 3EY T: 0151 707 6323 W: chaophraya.co.uk
Set in the heart of the city’s new shopping district, Chaophraya offers sumptuous Royal Thai cuisine served in equally sumptuous surroundings – all sunken Thai-style seating and exotic lighting. There’s also the luxurious Palm Sugar cocktail bar if you just fancy something to wet your whistle.
HoSt 31 Hope Street, Liverpool L1 9HX T: 0151 708 5831 W: ho-st.co.uk
Asian fusion food in the very cool guise of this funky restaurant from the people behind 60 Hope Street. Contemporary design, trendy lighting and a mean duck gyoza are all good reasons to check it out.
Roses Tea Rooms 23 Milner Road, Heswall, Wirral CH60 5RT T: 0151 342 9912 W: rosestearooms.co.uk
A trip over the river will reward you with an amazing afternoon tea at this award-winning gem of a café whose exquisite sandwiches and scones are said to rival the Ritz’s.
36 Hope Street L1 9BX T: 0151 707 2837
The Wro Bar
A £23million restoration programme has given a superb facelift to what many consider to be the finest neo-classical building in Europe. St George’s certainly has buckets of presence, standing proudly at the centre of the city like a temple to Liverpool’s mid-19th century wealth and ambition. Inside, the massive Great Hall is resplendent with gilded plasterwork and ornate chandeliers, plus a renowned Minton-tiled floor.
Grange Road, West Kirby, Wirral CH48 4DY T: 0151 625 201 W: the-wro.co.uk
Three Graces
Not the Hall, but the staggeringly ornate pub across the road, which boasts the only gentleman’s toilets in the country that a lady may visit – they’re listed. Despite being definitely olde-worlde, this temple to Victorian exuberance attracts a lively mixed crowd that gives an indication of the level of affection it commands, with locals and visitors alike.
West Kirby is a bit of a gem. Easily accessible from Liverpool by Merseyrail, it’s set on the edge of the Wirral peninsula and looks across the Dee estuary to the Welsh Hills beyond. It’s also one of the best places in the UK to windsurf. This is the place where West Kirbyites gather – recently named the city region’s Bar of the Year for 2010.
The Blue Bar and Grill Edward Pavilion, Albert Dock L3 4AE T: 0151 702 5830 W: blue-venue.co.uk
At night the Albert Dock puts on its coolest threads and metamorphoses into the place for Liverpool’s glammed-up crowd. The Blue Bar is one of the achingly cool places to drink and dine, with a balcony overlooking the waterfront and an award-winning comedy club in the basement.
Leaf Tea Shop & Bar 7 Parliament Street L8 5RN T: 0151 707 7747 W: thisisleaf.co.uk
Unusual but imaginative venue that is tea shop and gallery by day and a live music venue by night. Voted in the top 50 UK tea shops by The Independent.
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William Brown Street L1 1JJ T: 0151 225 6909 W: stgeorgesliverpool.co.uk
Pier Head, North of Albert Dock T: 0151 233 2008 W: visitliverpool.com
Together, the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building create one of the most recognisable waterfronts in the world. Officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Albert Dock Albert Dock L3 4AF W: albertdock.com
This collection of restored Grade I-listed warehouses is home to many of Liverpool’s museum and heritage attractions, including Tate Liverpool, Merseyside Maritime Museum and the International Slavery Museum.
Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral Cathedral House, Mount Pleasant L3 5TQ T: 0151 709 9222 W: liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk
Irreverently known as Paddy’s Wigwam by locals, the relatively modern (1967) Metropolitan Cathedral stands at one end of the aptly-named Hope Street that connects it with its Anglican counterpart.
There’s nothing small about Liverpool’s Anglican Cathedral. Largest cathedral in the UK, 5th largest in the world, highest gothic arches in the world, UK’s largest church organ – the list goes on.
Antony Gormley’s Another Place Crosby Beach, Crosby W: visitliverpool.com
Antony Gormley’s series of 100 life-sized iron ‘men’ spread over 3km of sandy beach initially started off as a temporary installation. But, like the Angel of the North in Gateshead, the figures have taken on such iconic status on this beautifully windswept landscape that a fundraising campaign has successfully made them permanent. A great example of good public art at its most affecting.
Sefton Park Palm House Sefton Park L17 1AP T: 0151 726 2415 W: palmhouse.org.uk
This Grade II-listed Victorian glasshouse is the centrepiece of one of the largest public parks in England. It’s open to the public so you can spend a relaxing afternoon wandering around the tropical greenery. Occasional jazz and lunchtime concerts too.
THINGS TO DO Liverpool ONE 5 Wall Street, Liverpool L1 8JQ T: 0151 232 3100 W: liverpool-one.com
This new purpose-built shopping mecca at the heart of the city comprises over 160 shops, more than 20 bars and restaurants, a fantastic 14 screen cinema and a five acre park. Expect all the big high street names as well as topend designer brands and Jamie Oliver’s latest Italian restaurant venture for starters.
Gerry and the Pacemakers have a lot to answer for. Take a trip across to look back at the famous waterfront from across the river and just see if you can stop yourself singing ‘that song’ – it’s practically impossible.
Dream Sutton Woodlands, St.Helens, Warrington W: dreamsthelens.com
20m-high sculpture depicting the face of a young girl by the renowned international artist Jaume Plensa. Located on a wooded hilltop next to the M62, it gazes serenely out over the surrounding countryside.
Knowsley Safari Park Prescot, Merseyside L34 4AN T: 0151 430 9009 W: knowsley.com
So what if you haven’t been to one since you were a kid? Having your windscreen wipers manhandled by monkeys is still as much fun as it always was…
Speke Hall, Gardens and Estate Speke, Merseyside L24 1XD T: 0151 427 7231 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Just down the road from the airport, this wellpreserved, half-timbered Tudor house dates from the 15th century and is surrounded by beautiful gardens and woodland.
THINGS TO BUY
Everton mints and Beatles memorabilia.
GIVE IT A WHIRL… The Yellow Duckmarine T: 0151 708 7799 W: theyellowduckmarine.co.uk
Take an hour-long trip around Liverpool’s waterfront on road and water in this converted WW2 amphibious landing vehicle.
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THE CULTURE LIST: Liverpool GALLERIES Walker Art Gallery William Brown Street L3 8EL T: 0151 478 4199 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
The Walker sits at the heart of Liverpool’s central cultural quarter alongside the best of the city’s magnificent neo-classical architecture, St George’s Hall and World Museum Liverpool. Often referred to as ‘the National Gallery of the North,’ it is renowned for the breadth and depth of its collections, ranging from medieval and renaissance masterpieces to pieces by modern icons such as David Hockney and Gilbert and George.
Tate Liverpool Albert Dock L3 4BB T: 0151 702 7400 W: tate.org.uk/liverpool
The Liverpool outpost of the Tate empire is housed in a wonderful conversion of Grade I-listed warehouses on the banks of the Mersey at Albert Dock. The UK’s largest modern art gallery outside London, it draws on the wide range of 20th and 21st century artwork from the Tate Collection and develops its own innovative, changing exhibitions programme. In recent years it has been the first ever home of The Turner Prize outside London and has made the capital jealous with serious blockbuster exhibitions of work by Gustav Klimt and Picasso.
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previous page: Sefton Park Palm House;
Metropolitan Cathedral.
below: The Bluecoat; FACT; Walker Art Gallery;
Empire Theatre; Echo Arena; Tate Liverpool.
Victoria Gallery & Museum
Merseyside Maritime Museum
Ashton Street, Liverpool L69 3DR T: 0151 794 2348 W: liv.ac.uk/vgm
Albert Dock L3 4AQ T: 0151 478 4499 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
This Grade I-listed old schoolhouse, thought to be the oldest building in Liverpool city centre, has been a focus for contemporary arts, crafts and design in the city since the 1960s. A £12.5million transformation led by the hip Dutch practise BIQ Architecten, has restored the building to its former glory, with the addition of a spanking new art gallery and performance space. The outdoor courtyard is an elegant, atmospheric place to sit and relax, whilst the craft shop always turns up some uniquely desirable pieces of art, ceramics and jewellery.
This recently opened gallery devoted to the decorative arts is located in a magnificent Victorian building just behind the Metropolitan Cathedral. Part of Liverpool University and the northern outpost of the V&A, its fine café makes an ideal afternoon tea location.
Fascinating museum devoted to the history of shipping in Britain from the 13th century onwards. The story of the port of Liverpool plays a large part in the exhibits, with a focus on its role as the UK’s emigration point for the Americas and the part it played in the history and abolition of the slave trade.
MUSEUMS
World Museum Liverpool
Museum of Liverpool (opening 2011)
William Brown Street L3 8EN T: 0151 478 4393 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Lady Lever Art Gallery
This head-turning new piece of contemporary architecture is currently making its presence felt next to the historic Three Graces on the city’s waterfront and once completed will be the biggest new museum to be built in the UK for over a century and the first ever in the world to be solely devoted to the history, impact and character of a regional city.
Contemporary Urban Centre
The Bluecoat
41–51 Greeland Street L1 0BS T: 0151 708 3510 W: contemporaryurbancentre.org
School Lane L1 3BX T: 0151 702 5324 W: thebluecoat.org.uk
Urban cultural hub for all things cutting edge, including contemporary art and film, new music, dance and theatre.
View Two Gallery 23 Mathew Street L2 6RE T: 0151 236 9444 W: viewtwogallery.co.uk
Behind an unassuming doorway in the Cavern Quarter you’ll find Liverpool’s leading independent gallery – a positive Aladdin’s cave of contemporary art spread over three floors. It’s only open from noon on Thursdays through to Saturday, but call in on a Saturday afternoon and you’ll get a complimentary glass of wine.
FACT Foundation For Art & Creative Technology 88 Wood Street L1 4DQ T: 0151 707 4444 W: fact.co.uk
Billed as ‘an international arts centre for the digital age’, FACT is an award-winning cultural project that is dedicated to showcasing the work of international artists working in film, video and new media. The venue is the hub of the Rope Walks area of the city centre, home to music studios, design collectives and architects’ offices by day and to interesting clubs and bars by night.
Lower Rd, Port Sunlight Village, Wirral CH62 5EQ T: 0151 478 4136 W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
The Lever Brothers soap magnate, William Hesketh Lever, did a lot for this part of the world. Not only did he build the delightful garden village of Port Sunlight (named after his famous soap) but he also created within it the beautiful Lady Lever Art Gallery to house his extensive collection of art, including a magnificent selection of 18th and 19th century paintings. Worth crossing the Mersey for.
Pier Head, Liverpool W: liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/mol
A £35million refurbishment in 2005 almost doubled the size of what was formerly the
Liverpool Museum, giving it a substantial facelift and allowing it to display a whole treasure trove of previously locked away artefacts from its collections.
Mr Chambre Hardman’s Photographic Studio 59 Rodney Street L1 9EX T: 0151 709 6261 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
This loving preservation of the Georgian terraced house of acclaimed Liverpool photographer Edward Chambre Hardman is a unique time capsule of Liverpool life in the mid-20th century and features an evocative and moving collection of his work.
The Beatles Story Albert Dock L3 4BB T: 0151 709 1963 W: beatlestory.com
A trip to Liverpool would not be complete without a visit to this temple to the city’s favourite sons. Recently won the city’s best large visitor attraction award following a major expansion of its facilities in 2009.
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THEATRES
MUSIC VENUES
Liverpool Playhouse
Liverpool Philharmonic Hall
Williamson Square L1 1EL T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
Hope Street L1 9BP T: 0151 709 3789 W: liverpoolphil.com
Housed in a 19th century music hall building, this 700-seat theatre has one of the UK’s oldest repertory theatre companies. Produces its own shows, interspersed with good quality touring product.
The 1930s Philharmonic Hall may look like an old cinema from the outside but inside it’s a riot of superb art deco flourishes, from the beautiful window etchings in the bar to the frescoes of mythological muses on the auditorium walls. Home to a resurgent Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra, whose conductor Vasily Petrenko is so on-side he even plays for the orchestra football team.
Everyman Theatre 13 Hope Street L1 9BH T: 0151 709 4776 W: everymanplayhouse.com
This small but consistently innovative theatre is where every Liverpool actor and writer you can think of – from Julie Walters to Willy Russell – cut their creative teeth.
Unity Theatre Hope Place L1 9BG T: 0151 709 4988 W: unitytheatreliverpool.co.uk
This lively, small-scale venue is one of the country’s most successful ‘fringe’ theatres, with a reputation for encouraging new writing and new performers, particularly through community involvement.
Liverpool Empire Lime Street L1 1JE T: 0844 847 2525 W: liverpoolempire.org.uk
The largest two-tier theatre in the country, this is the place for the major touring musicals and shows.
Royal Court Theatre Roe Street L1 1HL T: 0870 787 1866 W: royalcourtliverpool.com
Previously known as a music venue, the Royal Court has had a new lease of life as the home of the Rawhide comedy club. Cabaret-style tables and a packed programme of local and national comedians.
PRIME VIEW Mary Colston Creative Director, Hope Street Hotel Why I love it
Cavern Club
This mad, wonderful city is a cultural, historical and artistic thoroughbred of a place. International in reputation but small enough to make you feel like you matter.
8–10 Mathew Street L2 6RE T: 0151 236 1965 W: cavernclub.org
Favourite restaurant
Infamous as the first home of the Fab Four, this is probably the most well-known club in the world. It has remained faithful to the original Merseybeat décor and is obviously a huge draw to the Beatles tourist crowds.
Best view
Formerly known as The Lomax, this 19th century warehouse is the place to see rock legends, indie all-stars and cutting edge dance and urban acts.
Echo Arena Liverpool
Best shopping/retail experience
11–13 Hotham Street L3 5UF T: 0151 707 3200 W: o2academyiverpool.co.uk
1 Monarchs Quay L3 4BX T: 0844 8000 400 W: accliverpool.co.uk
Shiny new state-of-the-art concert venue at Kings Dock by the side of the Mersey. Now the main venue in town for big name concerts, comedy and sports events, it’s just the right size for an arena – big enough to generate the right concert atmosphere but not so big that you need binoculars to see the stars performing.
THE ESSENTIAL LIST Page 36
THE COUNTRY LIST Page 38
THE CULTURE LIST Page 39
How to get here and where to stay, eat and drink...
What to see and do...
Everything you need to know about museums, heritage, galleries, theatres and venues...
The London Carriage Works. Fresh, seasonal, local ingredients on a plate and one long glass wall to watch the fascinating world of Hope Street go by. My favourite view is about architecture. Stand outside the entrance of the Maritime Museum and face The Three Graces, regal in the background and juxtaposed with the two new kids on the block, the pearly Museum of Liverpool and the hard black obelisks of Mann Island.
O2 Academy Liverpool
The Lake District & Cumbria
Bluecoat Arts and Crafts Shop, the fresh air of Liverpool One, the Tate shop and Oxfam books on Bold Street. Favourite place to drink
A choice between Alma de Cuba, a beautifully converted, sympathetically renovated Catholic church and Pogue Mahone, a real Irish pub, both on Seal Street. Brew on Bold Street has a fantastic eclectic choice of teas, their refreshing cuppa makes a change from the plethora of identikit coffee chains. Hidden gem
The World War II Museum, headquarters of the Battle of the Atlantic. Chillingly atmospheric, bomb proof, underground nerve centres. If you see/do one thing while you’re here…
You’ll have to do this by car or bike but drive to and walk round the old dock roads and warehouses and marvel at the stonework and grandeur. Then go and sit on any bench and soon I bet a complete stranger will make you laugh, just like Scousers can! 34
W: hopestreethotel.co.uk
Derwentwater and Keswick from Latrigg
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THE ESSENTIALS: The Lake District & Cumbria Not only does the Lake District have some of the UK’s most stunning scenery, it also has some of its most varied. With beautiful lakes, enchanting forests, changing coastline and 100 peaks that are over 2,000 feet high all within a 30 mile stretch, it’s the perfect place to go ‘wandering lonely as a cloud’. But Cumbria is no longer just the territory of the cagoule-clad rambler or the crag-hopping adrenaline junkie (even though both are seriously well catered for). With Michelin-starred restaurants, indulgent spa hotels and even the traditional B&Bs and self-catering cottages undergoing something of a boutique reinvention, the Lakes is also a place where you can enjoy more than a little luxury and sophistication.
HADRIAN’S WALL GLASGOW A7 A69
A689
NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE
A69
CARLISLE
RAIL
A66 COCKERMOUTH
PENRITH KESWICK
WHITEHAVEN
A66
CASTLERIGG STONE CIRCLE
M6
RAIL
A591 A685
BEATRIX POTTER’S HILL TOP FARM
STEAMERS WINDERMERE
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
Ireby, Nr Keswick CA7 1HH T: 017687 76566 W: overwaterhall.co.uk
L’enclume Restaurant
You can reach the southern Lakes by car from either Liverpool or Manchester in little over an hour and the northern Lakes in just over two. All parts of Lakeland are easily accessible from the M6 motorway, which runs north to south just to the eastern side of Cumbria.
By train
The west coast mainline from London to Glasgow makes it easier than you think to get away to Cumbria. To get to Oxenholme (where a quick change will take you directly to Kendal or Windermere) takes just over 2½ hours from Euston and it’s just over 3 hours to get to Penrith, where a 20 minute taxi ride will get you to Keswick, right on the shores of Derwentwater. There are also regular direct trains between Manchester Airport and Windermere and between Manchester Airport and Barrow-in-Furness in the Western Lake District.
England’s small hotel of the year, this is the place to get away from it all. The new Lake House annexe has its own private lake and spa to add to the already sumptuous range of rooms and suites, some with their own gardens and outdoor hot tubs.
The Samling Ambleside Road, Windermere LA23 1LR T: 015394 31922 W: thesamlinghotel.co.uk
Perched on a hill above Lake Windermere, the Samling makes a perfect weekend escape. One of Cumbria’s best ‘boutiques’, (previous guests include the Cruises apparently), so expect elegant surroundings, impeccable service and Michelin-starred food.
Sharrow Bay Ullswater, Penrith CA10 2LZ T: 017684 86301 W: sharrowbay.co.uk
Number 43 The Promenade, Arnside LA5 0AA T: 01524 762 761 W: no43.org.uk
This Visit England 5 star gold award-winning B&B is a mini temple to luxury and comfort. Beautiful contemporary styling inside, it’s the charms of this small South Lakes coastal town outside that take many people by surprise, with glorious views across the Kent estuary to the fells beyond.
Tottergill Farm
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Castle Carrock, Brampton CA8 9DP T: 01228 670615 W: tottergill.co.uk
Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands LA11 6PZ T: 015395 36362 W: lenclume.co.uk
Chef Simon Rogan’s Michelin-starred restaurant in this über-cute South Lakes village has been so successful that he’s now taken his gastro empire one step further. Rogan & Company is his more casual bar/ restaurant set-up, located just two minutes walk from the famous Cartmel Racecourse.
The Cottage in the Wood Whinlatter Forest, Braithwaite CA12 5TW T: 017687 78409 W: thecottageinthewood.co.uk
Just as romantic as its name sounds, this cosy restaurant with rooms is set in a former 17th century coaching inn located in the middle of England’s only mountain forest. Superlative views down the valley to Skiddaw beyond are matched by the superlative local food which recently won the Taste of Cumbria award.
Zeffirellis
The grandaddy of Lake District country house hotels, Sharrow Bay set the standard for others to follow and has held its prized Michelin star for over 14 years. Worth going for the spectacular views and the superb afternoon tea, which is an occasion in itself.
Boy, how self-catering holidays have changed. The latest incarnations are very boutique short break-friendly – all outdoor hot tubs and Shaker-style kitchens. Tottergill is one of the best; voted Cumbria’s best self-catering accommodation in 2010 – but Monkhouse Hill, Hall Hills and Ann’s Hill (what is it with all the hills?) are worth checking out too.
Armathwaite Hall & Spa
The Lazy Fish
Low Sizergh Barn
Bassenthwaite Lake, Keswick CA12 4RE T: 017687 76551 W: armathwaite-hall.com
GET THE INFO…
Go on – indulge yourself. This magnificent stately home set in 400 acres of deer park not only is an indulgently romantic place to stay, its fabulous spa was awarded the maximum ‘5 bubbles’ in the Good Spa guide.
W: golakes.co.uk T: 01539 822222
The Sun Inn Market St, Kirkby Lonsdale LA6 2AU T: 015242 71965 W: sun-inn.info
BROUGH
This Grade II-listed Georgian mansion is tucked away in the northern Lakes against the backdrop of Skiddaw and the Uldale fells. Fantastic local cuisine and a dedication to your every whim and comfort earned it Cumbria’s best small hotel award for 2010.
Brook House, Cockermouth CA13 9TN T: 017687 76179 W: thelazyfish.co.uk
This converted barn is the definition of the word spacious – the living area is the size of a small footie pitch. Just 10 mins drive from Keswick, it’s an oasis of luxury in the midst of the Northern fells, from the outdoor spa pool to the dinosaur’s egg-sized marble bath tub. Sleeps up to six so bring your chums.
Compston Road, Ambleside LA22 9AD T: 015394 33845 W: zeffirellis.com
Zeffirellis is a Lake District institution – a unique combination of cinema, jazz café-bar and top-notch pizzeria restaurant. Now with a sister vegetarian counterpart Fellinis just around the corner. Low Sizergh Farm, Sizergh, Kendal LA8 8AE T: 015395 60426 W: lowsizerghbarn.co.uk
The first organic farm to win a silver Taste of England Award has a host of delights for all real food fans, including a farm shop, craft and gift galleries, plus a tea room where you can get a bird’s-eye view of the cows getting milked while you munch your afternoon tea.
17th century inn in a bustling market town in the beautiful Lune Valley. All the traditions of flag floors, roaring log fires and cask ales but combined with high quality contemporary cuisine and rooms replete with all mod-cons. Crosthwaite, Lyth Valley LA8 8HR T: 015395 68237 W: the-punchbowl.co.uk
KENDAL A590 RAIL A590 BARROW-IN-FURNESS
Overwater Hall
Gilpin Hotel and Lake House
The Punch Bowl Inn
RAIL
36
By road
M6
A66
A595
GETTING HERE
Windermere and Keswick are well served by National Express coaches (0870 580 8080) from all parts of the country.
A596
PLACES TO STAY Crook Road, Windermere LA23 3NE T: 015394 88818 W: gilpinlodge.co.uk
By bus
A595
WORKINGTON
below left: Gilpin Lodge. below right: The Punch Bowl Inn; The Samling.
LANCASTER
Everything you look for in a gastropub can be found in this cosy bolthole. The nine bedrooms all have roll-top baths and sink-into beds and the food in the elegant restaurant is top notch.
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THE COUNTRY LIST: The Lake District & Cumbria
THE CULTURE LIST: The Lake District & Cumbria THEATRES & VENUES
Blackwell
Brewery Arts Centre
Bowness-on-Windermere LA23 3JT T: 015394 46139 W: blackwell.org.uk
Highgate, Kendal LA9 4HE T: 01539 725133 W: breweryarts.co.uk
Buzzing hub for arts and culture in the South Lakes, with a 450-seat auditorium for theatre, dance and comedy, three cinema screens, an exhibition and gallery space, plus a suitably bohemian bar and restaurant.
Theatre by the Lake Lakeside, Keswick CA12 5DJ T: 017687 74411 W: theatrebythelake.co.uk
THINGS TO SEE
Aira Force
Water Walking
Ruskin’s View
Ullswater
Brundholme Road, Keswick CA12 4NL T: 017687 75687 W: keswickadventurecentre.co.uk
Kirkby Lonsdale
The discerning Victorian thinker was so captivated by this spot overlooking the River Lune that he described it as ‘one of the loveliest scenes in England’.
Castlerigg Stone Circle Just outside Keswick
Even though it is dwarfed by the surrounding mighty peaks of Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Blencathra, this 5,000-year-old circle of 48 craggy standing stones has an awesome presence and dignity.
Wastwater Wasdale Head
Officially crowned as ‘Britain’s favourite view’ by ITV after seeing off competition from 16 other UK beauty spots, this dramatic location is where England’s deepest lake is overlooked by England’s highest mountain, The Lake District at its most majestic.
Grizedale Forest Park Grizedale. Hawkshead LA22 0QJ T: 01229 860010 W: forestry.gov.uk/grizedale
Beautiful forest hiding over 80 works of art and sculpture scattered through the woodland. A visitor centre, plus walking and cycling routes with beautiful views and plenty of arty pit-stops. 38
Force is the Cumbrian name for waterfall and you’re unlikely to see a prettier one than Aira, sparkling and tumbling its way down a 70ft drop through craggy Lakeland slate.
Hadrian’s Wall East of Carlisle T: 01434 322002 W: hadrians-wall.org
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the most visited attraction in the north of England.
THINGS TO DO Windermere Lake Cruises Lakeside, Bowness and Ambleside T: 015394 43360 W: windermere-lakecruises.co.uk
The best way to enjoy the beauty of Lake Windermere is from the water, with regular sailings up and down its length every day throughout the year.
Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Ravenglass CA18 1SW T: 01229 717171 W: ravenglass-railway.co.uk
This is the oldest narrow-gauge railway in England, originally built in 1875 to carry iron ore. It now provides an atmospheric steam train journey through the beautiful forests and fields of Eskdale to Ravenglass on the Cumbrian coast.
Yes, you can truly walk on water without getting wet in these bizarre see-through plastic balls that allow you to wobble your way across the surface of Derwentwater like a demented hamster in a wheel.
Via Ferrata Honister Slate Mine, Borrowdale, Keswick CA12 5XN T: 017687 77230 W: honister.com
Altitude = adrenaline and you’ll get high in more ways than one on this ‘iron road’ up the mountainside. A zip wire and harness mean you can follow the practically vertical old slate miners trail in safety.
Dove Cottage & The Wordsworth Museum
Castlegate House Gallery
Grasmere LA22 9SH T: 015394 35544 W: wordsworth.org.uk
Cockermouth CA13 9HA T: 01900 822149 W: castlegatehouse.co.uk
Does just what it says on the tin – plays, concerts, performances and exhibitions all set in a fabulous spot overlooking a panorama of mountains on the edge of Derwentwater. Open all year round.
GALLERIES
MUSEUMS
Kendal LA9 5AL T: 01539 722464 W: abbothall.org.uk
The high-profile exhibitions at Abbot Hall have attracted national attention since it started its innovative partnership with the Tate in 2001. The gallery is housed in a lovely Georgian villa on the banks of the river Kent and in recent years has hosted major exhibitions by artists such as Lucian Freud and Bridget Riley, to name but a few.
letters, John Ruskin, chose one of the bestsited houses in the country to make his home. Overlooking Coniston Water, the house and gardens are open to the public and there’s an ongoing programme of exhibitions.
Now lovingly restored, Blackwell is a superb example of an Arts and Crafts house, showcasing the distinctive architecture of the period as well as housing a fantastic collection of Arts and Crafts artefacts.
The Lake District scenery continues to inspire artists in the 21st century, evidenced by the area’s concentration of small, independent, contemporary art galleries. Castlegate House is one of the best, specialising in the work of Northern English and Scottish artists.
Abbot Hall Art Gallery
below: Abbot Hall Art Gallery; Holker Hall.
Tullie House Museum & Gallery Tullie House, Castle Street, Carlisle CA3 8TP T: 01228 618718 W: tulliehouse.co.uk
Located at the heart of Carlisle’s historic quarter, next to the cathedral and castle. With its extensive Roman collection, Tullie House is the ideal place to start exploring Hadrian’s Wall Country.
Brantwood Coniston LA21 8AD T: 015394 41396 W: brantwood.org.uk
The grand old man of Victorian art and
Wordsworth’s picturesque former home is a shrine to his life and work. A stone’s throw away is the Jerwood Centre, home to the Wordsworth Trust’s manuscripts, books and prints, plus a gallery holding exhibitions of modern art inspired by the poet’s work.
HERITAGE Levens Hall Levens, Kendal LA8 0PD T: 015395 60321 W: levenshall.co.uk
Elizabethan stately home dating from the 14th century. Renowned for its topiary garden, the oldest in Britain and the on-site restaurant that sells rib-sticking local fayre and its own spiced Elizabethan beer.
Holker Hall & Gardens Cark-in-Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands LA11 7PL T: 015395 58328 W: holker.co.uk
Beautifully situated stately home in the rolling hills of the Cartmel peninsula, with great views over Morecambe Bay.
Sunsoar Paragliding South Road, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4SY T: 0845 220 6066 W: sunsoar-paragliding.com
Try out this exhilarating sport – by the end of the day you’ll be gliding with confidence above the glorious Eden Valley on the Cumbria/Yorkshire Dales.
THINGS TO BUY
Top quality outdoor gear, Cumberland sausage, Kendal mint cake, Grasmere gingerbread, damson gin, contemporary art. 39
THE ESSENTIALS: Lancashire
below: Stanley House; The Inn at Whitewell; The Midland Hotel; The Ashton; Bashall Barn.
Lancashire has also been steadily developing a reputation as one of England’s best foodie locations. From Goosnargh duck to Lancashire cheese, local produce is inspiring a new generation of restauranteurs and retailers. The Ribble Valley Food Trail, which takes in the picturesque towns of Clitheroe, Longridge and a number of villages in the lush Forest of Bowland, is an ideal introduction to the gastronomic delights in store. Visit www.ribblevalleyfoodtrail.com for more information.
GETTING HERE By road
The M6 motorway runs through central Lancashire making it easily accessible from all parts of the UK. Junctions with the M65 and M55 take you off into the east and west of the county respectively.
By train
The west coast mainline from London to Glasgow stops at Preston and Lancaster, with London to Preston taking just over two hours. Change at Preston for connections to other parts of Lancashire, including Blackpool and the coast.
By bus
Good bus services throughout Lancashire – check with National Express (0870 580 8080) for routes and timetables and with Traveline (0871 200 2233) for local bus services.
ERIC MORECAMBE STATUE
GET THE INFO…
MORECAMBE
W: visitlancashire.com and tastelancashire.com LANCASTER TOWN HALL
FOREST OF BOWLAND FLEETWOOD M6
BLACKPOOL TOWER
A585
A586
A587
CLITHEROE
BLACKPOOL A59
M55
Northcote
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
The Ashton Lancaster
Northcote Road, Langho, Blackburn BB6 8BE T: 01254 240555 W: northcote.com
Three Fishes
Wyresdale Road, Lancaster LA1 3JJ T: 01524 68460 W: theashtonlancaster.com
Lying between Manchester and the Lake District, Lancashire is blessed with a wide range of environments, from its cheeky seaside resorts, such as Blackpool and Morecambe to the splendid rolling countryside of the Forest of Bowland and Lune Valley. A new generation of places to stay is now enticing visitors to come and sample its charms, from restored art-deco masterpieces to Michelin-starred country boltholes and boutique B&Bs.
LANCASTER
PLACES TO STAY
This award-winning B&B is located in a handsome Georgian house that’s been given a makeover to die for, with dramatic decor, luxurious fabrics and sumptuous bathrooms. Awarded five stars and a Visit Britain gold award within five months of opening, which must be a record.
The Inn at Whitewell
This old manor house set in lush Ribble Valley countryside is now a serious foodie destination. Founded by chef Nigel Haworth and holder of a coveted Michelin star for over 10 years, it’s now more familiar to avid TV cookery watchers as the base of Great British Menu-winning chef, Lisa Allen. Superb food and a great wine list mean that it’s best to stay overnight in one of the well-appointed rooms.
Dunsop Road, Whitewell, Nr Clitheroe BB7 3AT T: 01200 448222 W: innatwhitewell.com
Penny Street Bridge
Wonderfully atmospheric, rambling old coaching inn dating back to the 1300s. Boasts one of the best views in Lancashire across the beautiful Forest of Bowland, while inside there are roaring fires and a great restaurant. Very dog friendly and has a bijou wine merchants on site too.
Penny Street, Lancaster LA1 1XT T: 01524 599 900 W: pennystreetbridge.co.uk
Set in an Edwardian sandstone building, this bar, lounge and brasserie also has top-of-the-range rooms. The feel of a bright, vibrant French bistro but with all the plus points of a traditional English pub.
Stanley House
The Old Shippon at Mellor –
Mellor, Nr Blackburn BB2 7NP T: 01254 769200 W: stanleyhouse.co.uk
Small, boutique hotel which manages to combine a real out-in-the-countryside feel while being just minutes away from the M6 and M65. It started attracting awards almost from the day it opened, and the food in its Cassis restaurant comes highly recommended.
Elswick Farm, Mellor Brow, Mellor BB2 7EX T: 01254 812644 W: theoldshipponatmellor.co.uk
Reformed cowshed on the outside, contemporary, romantic retreat on the inside, these award-winning self-catering cottages are in a great spot for exploring the delights of the Ribble Valley.
The Midland Hotel
Number One South Beach
Marine Road West, Morecambe LA4 4BU T: 01524 424000 W: elh.co.uk
4 Harrowside West, Blackpool FY4 1NW T: 01253 343900 W: numberonehotels.co.uk
A 1930s classic that has been restored into an Art Deco-inspired tour-de-force, this little bit of Miami’s South Beach on the Lancashire coast has enough spa treatments to pamper the most demanding diva.
Award-winning B&B that is leading the way in the reinvention of an old British seaside institution into a boutique luxury getaway, with superb quality, comfort and service together with great views of the Prom.
Mitton Road, Mitton, Nr Whalley BB7 9PQ T: 01254 826 888 W: thethreefishes.com
The Highwayman Burrow, Kirby Lonsdale LA6 2RJ T: 01524 273338 W: highwaymaninn.co.uk
The Clog & Billycock Billinge End Rd, Pleasington, Blackburn BB2 6QB T: 01254 201163 W: theclogandbillycock.com
Ribble Valley Inns is a small group of coaching inns and country pubs running under the guiding culinary hand of chef Nigel Haworth, where his signature approach of creative reinventions of local specialities draws both crowds and awards.
La Locanda Main Street, Gisburn, Clitheroe BB7 4HH T: 01200 445303 W: lalocanda.co.uk
Traditional Italian cuisine in a Lancashire cottage-style restaurant. Proprietors Maurizio and Cinzia combine the best local produce with specially imported Italian delicacies to create mouthwatering food.
Bashall Barn Twitter Lane, Bashall Eaves BB7 3LQ T: 01200 428964 W: bashallbarn.co.uk
Farm shop and restaurant located on a working dairy farm just outside Clitheroe, voted the best UK on-farm restaurant in the Local Food Awards 2010.
Huntley’s of Samlesbury Whalley Road, Samlesbury PR5 0UN T: 01772 872820 W: huntleys.co.uk
Talk about multi-tasking. A farm shop, a restaurant, an antique emporium, an ice cream shop with over 80 flavours of ice cream, plus Barrica Wines, recently voted the top independent wine retailer in the UK.
CLITHEROE CASTLE
RAIL M65
LYTHAM ST. ANNE’S
PRESTON
A584
BLACKBURN A56
A59
PANOPTICONS
ECCLESTON RAIL A565 A59
ORMSKIRK
M6
M61
MANCHESTER M66
40
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THE COUNTRY LIST: Lancashire
THE CULTURE LIST: Lancashire
THINGS TO SEE
Panopticons
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
HERITAGE
Forest of Bowland
Blackburn, Burnley, Pendle and Rossendale W: visitlancashire.com/panopticons
Harris Museum and Art Gallery
Hoghton Tower
Market Square, Preston PR1 2PP T: 01772 258248 W: harrismuseum.org.uk
Hoghton, Nr. Preston PR5 0SH T: 01254 852 986 W: hoghtontower.co.uk
As well as the gallery and museum, the Harris is also worth a visit for the building itself, a splendid Grade I-listed temple to Victorian civic pride. Inside you’ll find an impressive selection of artworks acquired by the wealthy cotton barons of the day.
A stately home dating back to Norman times, Hoghton Tower has ramparts, dungeons – the works, plus one of the most impressive drives you’ll ever see. William Shakespeare, Charles Dickens and King James I have all been guests here, with the latter famously knighting a loin of beef ‘Sir Loin’ at a banquet held in his honour. Reputedly the third most haunted house in Britain.
W: forestofbowland.com
This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is Lancashire’s hidden gem, a heart-stoppingly beautiful area of rolling hills, lush woodland, burbling rivers and amazing wildlife. Originally a hunting reserve for the monarchy, part of the Forest is still owned by the Duchy of Lancaster. It is also purportedly the inspiration for the idyllic Shire of Lord of the Rings fame.
Beacon Fell Country Park Goosnargh, Nr. Preston PR3 2NL
This gorgeous little country park consists of woodland, moorland and farmland, with the eponymous fell offering spectacular views of the Forest of Bowland and Morecambe Bay. An abundance of wildlife (but don’t try bagging your own Goosnargh duck) and a great place for bilberry picking too.
Pendle Hill Nr Colne BB8 9NW
Pendle Hill dominates its surroundings, with views that stretch all the way to the Isle of Man on a clear day. Its dramatic history dates back to the Bronze Age but it is best known for the Pendle Witches, the most famous example of alleged witchcraft in English history. Still makes the most of its spooky past, with large numbers of visitors turning up to climb it every Halloween.
The Great Promenade Show New South Promenade, Blackpool FY4 1RW T: 01253 478104 W: thegreatpromenadeshow.co.uk
This unique collection of wonderful modern sculptures ranges from an astonishing tide organ, whose haunting tunes are created by the action of the waves, to the world’s largest mirror ball, which pays homage to the town’s status as ballroom capital of the world.
Eric Morecambe’s statue Promenade, Morecambe
Bring a little sunshine into your life with a visit to Morecambe’s statue of its most famous son. Guaranteed to make you smile. 42
below: Trough of Bowland; Eric Morecambe’s Statue; Blackpool Tower & beach; Halo.
Looking around the hills of East Lancashire you’d be forgiven for thinking that the aliens have landed, with this remarkable set of artworks set on imposing viewpoints that are visible for miles around. Ranging from Halo, an 18m-diameter illuminated steel saucer gazing out over the Rossendale Valley, to an eerily evocative Singing Ringing Tree near Burnley, these are places to contemplate the meaning of life.
Cromwell’s Bridge River Hodder, west of Great Mitton
This picturesque bridge earned its name after Oliver Cromwell’s 8,000-strong army crossed it on its way to give the Cavaliers a sound thrashing in the Battle of Preston in 1648.
THINGS TO DO Lancaster Canal Kendal to Carnforth W: waterscape.com
One of the UK’s most scenic canals, this 41-mile, lock-free stretch of waterway meanders delightfully through the Forest of Bowland, the rolling countryside of Wyre and the Silverdale coast.
Clitheroe Castle Museum Castle Hill, Clitheroe BB7 1BA T: 01200 424568 W: lancsmuseums.gov.uk
New museum housed in Clitheroe’s picturesque castle which comes complete with 18 acres of lovely formal gardens and a Castle Keep dating back to 1186. As well as the museum there’s an art gallery with changing shows and a spanking new café in the museum’s contemporary glass extension. Accrington BB5 2JS T: 01254 233782 W: hyndburnbc.gov.uk
Whalley Abbey
Nr Wigglesworth, OS Grid Reference: SD749576 W: forestry.gov.uk
THEATRES & VENUES
Blackpool Tower & Circus Promenade, Blackpool FY1 1BJ T: 01253 622242 W: theblackpooltower.co.uk
Lancashire’s mini-Eiffel might be a monument to seaside kitsch, but it’s worth the trip to the top for the superb views across the Irish Sea. The circus is also one of the UK’s best, but it’s the ornate splendour of the Tower Ballroom that’s currently drawing the crowds after its show-stopping appearances on Strictly.
Castle Parade, Lancaster LA1 1YJ T: 01524 64998 W: lancastercastle.com
Haworth Gallery
Gisburn Forest One of the best places in the Northwest to go mountain-biking, Gisburn Forest offers bike trails for all levels of experience, as well as tracks for walking and horseriding.
Lancaster Castle This prominent spot has been used as a fortification since Roman times and you can trace the centuries through its buildings, including the 14th century Witches’ Tower. Candlelit tours of its rooms and passageways make the most of its spooky heritage.
If Tiffany glass is your thing, then you’ll be in seventh heaven in this gallery housing what is considered to be the finest collection in public hands outside the US. Set in an elegant Edwardian country house, the gallery also houses an impressive collection of 19th century oil paintings.
The Grand Theatre 33 Church Street, Blackpool FY1 1HT T: 01253 290190 W: blackpoolgrand.co.uk
Grand by name and grand by nature, this is a riot of plush velvet, gilt and chandeliers, all restored to its original Victorian splendour. Officially Britain’s National Theatre of Variety, it is the place to catch touring shows, including comedy, opera, and musicals.
Dukes Theatre & Cinema Moor Lane, Lancaster LA1 1QE T: 01524 598500 W: dukes-lancaster.org
Arts venue that covers a lot of bases from theatre, comedy and music performances to cinema screenings and a small gallery.
below: Samlesbury Hall; Hoghton Tower; Clitheroe view; Clitheroe Castle Museum; Blackpool Grand Theatre.
The Sands, Church Lane, Whalley BB7 9SS T: 01254 828400 W: whalleyabbey.co.uk
These substantial ruins of a 14th century Cistercian Abbey are set in beautiful gardens and woodland beside the River Calder. The town of Whalley is also a good stop-off point on the Ribble Valley food trail – check out Breda Murphy’s award-winning bistro and deli while you’re there.
Salmesbury Hall Preston New Road, Salmesbury PR5 0UP T: 01254 812229 W: samlesburyhall.co.uk
Splendid black and white-timbered 14th century manor house on the banks of the River Ribble, with lovely grounds, art and craft exhibitions and a nice café/restaurant.
East Lancs Railway Heywood to Rawtenstall T: 0161 764 7790 W: east-lancs-rly.co.uk
Take a trip to the bygone age of steam with this authentic train journey through the scenic Rossendale Valley. Weekends only from September to May. 43
THE ESSENTIALS: Chester & Cheshire
below: Chester Cathedral; Oddfellows; Cheshire Smokehouse
PLACES TO STAY
Oddfellows
PLACES TO EAT & DRINK
Chester Grosvenor & Spa
20 Lower Bridge Street, Chester CH1 1RS T: 01244 400001 W: oddfellows.biz
The Pheasant Inn
Eastgate, Chester CH1 1LT T: 01244 324024 W: chestergrosvenor.com
Outside, it’s a Grade II-listed, black and white timbered piece of history, but inside it’s all five-star luxury and top-notch spa, plus a restaurant that has retained its coveted Michelin star for 19 consecutive years.
If you’re after archetypal idyllic British scenery then you need look no further than the lush green peaks and plains of Cheshire.
GETTING HERE
With its gorgeous countryside and abundant produce, Cheshire is awash with picturesque villages, charming country inns and mouth-watering gastropubs and restaurants. You can also take your pick from some of England’s most popular stately homes and gardens, ranging from mansions full of art treasures and historic deerparks to horticultural and historical marvels.
One of the top 20 airports in the world, Manchester Airport sits practically on the Manchester/Cheshire border making a domestic flight a quick and easy way to get here. Easy car hire and a well-connected air-rail interchange provide plenty of onward travel options.
Grosvenor Road, Chester CH1 2DJ T: 01244 347000 W: abodehotels.co.uk
By road
Warrington Road, Chester CH2 3PD T: 01244 408800 W: doubletree.hilton.co.uk
By plane
If all that greenery gives you urban withdrawal symptoms, you can always head for Chester, where the city’s remarkable Roman and medieval heritage is mixed with a tempting selection of contemporary charms, ranging from chic new boutiques and restaurants to a leisurely boat cruise along the tree-lined River Dee.
All parts of Cheshire are easily accessible from the main north-south M6 motorway. The attractions of East Cheshire are just 30 minutes drive south of Manchester, with Chester just over an hour away from Manchester along the M56.
By train
Crewe, Wilmslow, Macclesfield, Warrington and Chester are all on direct lines from London, with the journey to Chester taking just a couple of minutes over two hours from London Euston.
MANCHESTER
LIVERPOOL & MERSEYSIDE
STOCKPORT
DUNHAM MASSEY
RAIL
By bus
WARRINGTON LYME PARK
NORTON PRIORY TATTON PARK ELLESMERE PORT
WILMSLOW
A49 A556
FRODSHAM M56
THE EDGE
NORTHWICH A523 DELAMERE FOREST
CHESTER
CHESHIRE PEAKS
Cheshire is well served by National Express (0870 580 8080) from all parts of the country.
GET THE INFO… T: 0845 6477868 W: visitcheshire.com
ABode Chester Newly opened, this latest outpost of chef Michael Caines’ gastro empire is a spanking new hotel with an eponymous restaurant and champagne bar on the fifth floor.
Doubletree by Hilton
Grand 17th century Georgian manor house now transformed into a sumptuous dining venue, with four luxury boutique suites for staying over in the converted 3rd floor attic.
The Alexandra Court Hotel 7 Newcastle Road, Congleton CW12 4HN T: 01260 297871 W: thealexandracourt.com
Ideally located for exploring the attractions of East Cheshire, this 15-room hotel and restaurant was recently voted the best in the small hotel category at the Visit Chester & Cheshire annual awards.
Peckforton Castle Peckforton, Tarporley CW6 9TN T: 01829 260930 W: peckfortoncastle.co.uk
Restored 18th century manor house now part of the Hilton empire, with 12 acres of landscaped gardens and a Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill to boot.
It may look straight out of the middle ages, but this Grade I-listed mock Gothic pile was actually built in the 1850s. Now a luxury hotel, it makes the most of its medieval-ness with four-poster suites, full-on banquets, plus jousting and falconry sessions.
Premier Queen Hotel
Harrop Fold Farm
City Road, Chester CH1 3AH T: 01244 305000 W: feathers.uk.com
Winner of large hotel of the year in Chester & Cheshire’s annual tourism awards, this centrally located hotel is just minutes’ walk from Chester’s Rows and Roman walls.
The Green Bough Hotel
Macclesfield Road, Rainow SK10 5UU T: 01625 560085 W: harropfoldfarm.co.uk
17th century farmhouse given a new lease of life as boutique B&B and self-catering accommodation. Fresh flowers, antique beds and soul-lifting views, plus a superb Agacooked breakfast to set you up for the day.
60 Hoole Road, Chester CH2 3NL T: 01244 326241 W: chestergreenboughhotel.com
Chester Stone Villa
Tripadvisor’s No.1 hotel in Chester, this restored Victorian town house hotel trails a raft of awards behind it, including Best Small Hotel in England in 2006.
Award-winning boutique B&B set in a peaceful cul-de-sac just minutes away from Chester’s historic city centre.
Stone Place, Chester CH2 3NR T: 01244 345014 W: stonevillachester.co.uk
Higher Burwardsley, Tattenhall CH3 9PF T: 01829 770434 W: thepheasantinn.co.uk
Located right in the middle of the Sandstone Trail, this destination dining inn makes an ideal base for enjoying Cheshire’s walking country. Take your drink out onto the terrace for the most breathtaking sunset views across the Cheshire Plain to the Welsh mountains.
Joseph Benjamin Northgate Street, Chester CH1 2HT T: 01244 344295 W: josephbenjamin.co.uk
Situated next to the city walls, this cute delirestaurant has been voted Chester’s best small restaurant for two years on the trot. The tasting plates are a great way to try the local and homemade delicacies.
1539 Restaurant & Bar The Racecourse, Chester CH1 2LY T: 01244 304611 W: restaurant1539.co.uk
The fine dining at 1539 is created using the very best of local produce, with added ambience from the splendid view over Chester’s Roodee racecourse.
Residence Restaurant & Bar Mill Street, Nantwich CW5 5ST T: 01270 629100 W: residence.co.uk
If you find yourself in Nantwich then this eatery set in a regency building that was once the Lord Mayor of London’s Cheshire residence is the place to go for quality nosh.
Cheshire Smokehouse Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow SK9 5NU T: 01625 548499 W: cheshiresmokehouse.co.uk
Nationally famous farm shop with a bijou winery, an artisan bakers and a fabulous café.
MACCLESFIELD A53
WINSFORD JODRELL BANK
A51 RAIL
A41
M6
CREWE
STAFFORDSHIRE NANTWICH CHOLMONDELEY CASTLE
44
RAIL
45
THE COUNTRY LIST: Chester & Cheshire
below: Cholmondeley Castle; Teggs Nose; Cheshire Peaks; White Nancy; Tatton Park.
THE CULTURE LIST: Chester & Cheshire THEATRES & VENUES
Chester Cathedral
Jodrell Bank Visitor Centre
Clonter Opera Theatre
12 Abbey Square, Chester CH1 2HU T: 01244 324756 W: chestercathedral.com
Holmes Chapel SK11 9DL T: 01477 571339 W: manchester.ac.uk/jodrellbank/viscen
Swettenham Heath, Congleton CW12 2LR T: 01260 224514 W: clonteropera.com
Cheshire’s equivalent of Glyndebourne is this 400-seat opera venue in a gorgeous woodland setting.
Alexander’s Jazz Cafe Rufus Court, Chester CH1 2JW T: 01244 340005 W: alexandersjazz.com
Continental-style cafe bar by day and venue for jazz, blues and comedy by night. Reportedly the longest-running comedy club outside London.
The Edge
Lyme Park
Cheshire Peak District
B5087 Macclesfield Road, Alderley Edge
Disley, Stockport SK12 2NX T: 01663 762023 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Norton Priory Museum & Gardens
Set on the edge of the Peak District, this gorgeous country house and grounds will be familiar to many as the setting for Colin Firth’s famous wet T-shirt moment in the BBC’s Pride and Prejudice series.
Tudor Road, Manor Park, Runcorn WA7 1SX T: 01928 569895 W: nortonpriory.org
A medieval priory established in 1134 is the basis for an award-winning museum, plus a fabulous walled garden.
Dunham Massey
Quarry Bank Mill
Delamere Forest Linmere, Delamere, Northwich CW8 2JD T: 01606 889792 W: forestry.gov.uk
Cheshire’s largest area of woodland, with easy-to-follow forest paths and viewpoints over sun-dappled meres. Cycle hire is available at the forest visitor centre and every summer there’s a series of atmospheric outdoor concerts, with James Morrison and Simply Red on the list for 2010.
Forest-clad red sandstone escarpment with fantastic views across Cheshire, Greater Manchester and beyond. Influence for The Weirdstone of Brisingamen, Alan Garner’s famous 1960s children’s book. The Edge’s many caves and cracks are said to be entrances to the netherworld.
Mow Cop A mile east of the A34
Castle folly remains on a hill near Congleton, on the Cheshire-Staffordshire border.
STATELY HOMES & GARDENS Tatton Park Knutsford WA16 6QN T: 01625 534400 W: tattonpark.org.uk
Beeston Castle
Thought to be England’s most complete historic estate, this fine Georgian mansion is full of art treasures and original furnishings, but it is the glorious 1,000 acres of parkland, with lakes and a herd of deer, that most people come to see. Makes a glorious outdoor concert venue in the summer.
Chapel Lane, Beeston CW6 9TX T: 01829 260464 W: visitcheshire.com
Arley Hall and Gardens
Remains of an imposing medieval fortress set on a precipitous rock outcrop that dates back to the Crusades. Worth a visit for the tea shop and the superb views which purportedly stretch over eight counties. 46
MUSEUMS & HERITAGE
THE GREAT OUTDOORS Cheshire’s eastern edge is where you’ll find the county’s most dramatic scenery. There are peaks, forests, lakes and reservoirs with an abundance of country walks and great pubs in-between. Highlights include Teggs Nose, White Nancy, Shutlingsloe (Cheshire’s ‘Matterhorn’) and Shining Tor peaks, the picturesque Wildboarclough valley, Wincle village, Macclesfield Forest and the heart-inthe-mouth journey along the Cat & Fiddle road to Buxton.
Northwich CW9 6NA T: 01565 777353 W: arleyhallandgardens.com
The Hall at Arley is very charming but it’s the gardens that draw the crowds, with Arley cited in the top 10 gardens to visit in the UK.
Altrincham WA14 4SJ T: 0161 941 1025 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
Elegant Georgian mansion whose lovely grounds are home to an ancient herd of fallow deer. Great cream teas too.
Cholmondeley Castle Malpas SY14 8AH T: 01829 720383 W: cholmondeleycastle.com
This romantic castle looks like something out of a Brontë novel, standing high on a rise above a lake with sweeping grounds that echo to the sound of champagne corks for its annual summer fireworks concert.
Ness Botanic Gardens Neston Road, Ness, Neston CH64 4AY T: 0151 353 0123 W: nessgardens.org.uk
Superb botanic gardens overlooking the Dee Estuary. Winner of the Cheshire’s Large Attraction of the Year award in 2008. Further gardens at visitcheshire.com/gardens
below: Jodrell Bank; Chester various.
Styal, Wilmslow, Cheshire SK9 4LA T: 01625 445896 W: nationaltrust.org.uk
If industrial heritage is your bag, this is a real treasure trove – a restored industrial community in the Cheshire countryside complete with working water mill.
This Grade I-listed building dates back to the 16th century and with many modifications over the years it’s like a living architectural text book. The impressive interior and the surrounding gardens and cloisters are an oasis of calm in the city centre bustle.
THINGS TO DO The Rows Eastgate, Chester
Effectively double decker shops, these black and white buildings date from the middle ages but are now packed with contemporary boutiques to taunt your plastic.
Concorde Manchester Airport Aviation Viewing Park, Sunbank Lane, Altrincham WA15 8XQ T: 0161 489 3932
The iconic Lovell Radio Telescope is a prominent feature of the Cheshire skyline. The on-site science centre provides eyeopening 3D views of the solar system while for more down-to-earth pursuits there’s an arboretum and environment centre.
Shark Dives The Blue Planet, Ellesmere Port CH65 9LF T: 0151 357 8804 W: sharkdives.blueplanetaquarium.com
OK, so the tiger shark may not be an indigenous Cheshire species, but you can encounter one up close and personal while your chums look on in what was recently voted the county’s best tourism experience.
Anson Engine Museum
Marvel at one of the 20th century’s most iconic pieces of engineering in a purposebuilt museum hanger at Manchester Airport and you’ll understand why G-BOAC Alpha Charlie was the pride of the BA fleet.
Anson Road, Poynton, SK12 1TD T: 01625 874426 W: enginemuseum.org
Chester Boat
Chester Zoo
The Groves, Chester CH1 1SD T: 01244 325394 W: chesterboat.co.uk
Go boating on the river Dee, cruising through Chester and the surrounding countryside.
For all you grease monkeys, this is one of the UK’s leading specialist museums, with a host of working engines to get your cogs turning. Upton-by-Chester CH2 1LH T: 01244 380280 W: chesterzoo.org
You’re never too old for a good zoo, and Chester is one of the best.
Your guide to the very best of culture and countryside in England’s Northwest
Volume 2 Issue 2: where culture comes first
www.primenorthwest.co.uk
Volume 2, Issue 2
Autumn/Winter 2010/11
Manchester sees a shrink... Inside
48 ARTFUL HOURS AT THE MANCHESTER WEEKENDER GET AHEAD OF THE PACK AT LIVERPOOL BIENNIAL PLUS THE CULTURE & COUNTRYSIDE LISTS FOR ENGLAND’S NORTHWEST