Rad Radishes Grab summer by the bunches and get cooking
page 28
Honoring James Beard
PAGE 4
Fly Fishing Yakima River
PAGE 24
Getting to Know Viognier PAGE 34
Chatting with Grant Achatz
PAGE 50
Red, White & RosĂŠ Wine Reviews PAGE 40
Sail away with Executive Chef Gavin Stephenson of the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, and Bergevin Lane Vineyards onboard Oceania Cruises’ beautiful new Marina.
Join us! Sail 10 days (April 12 -22, 2012) from Rome to Venice, while participating in amazing food and wine pairing classes in the new exclusive Bon Appétit culinary center.
How to Book:
This exclusive package includes wine tasting sessions and a spectacular winemakers dinner while sailing.
Call now (800-368-4369) to make your reservation as space is limited or visit www.chefscruise2012.com
Marina is the most sophisticated, elegant ship with a country club casual ambiance to debut in the past 50 years.
Pricing starting at $4929 per person all inclusive*
Formerly Doug Fox Travel & Cruise
Call now to make your reservation as space is limited - 800-368-4369 www.chefscruise2012.com 2
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
www.nwpalate.com
WA SOT #601824183 ALL-Inclusive of economy air from 21 major gateways, pre-night hotel in Rome including breakfast, transfers, pre-paid gratuities, gov’t taxes and fees. Also includes one culinary class with Chef Gavin, two wine tasting sessions with Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane from Bergevin Lane Vineyards and a spectacular winemakers dinner.
8 Volume 25, Number 3 | July/August 2011 | www.nwpalate.com
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24 feat u r e s
24 Blue Ribbon Fishing on the Yakima River Spend a day fly fishing for trout on the Yakima River, plus recipes and guides for where to stay and dine in Ellensburg, Washington, and other Northwest fishing adventures. By David Paul Williams
28 Radishes
Explore the wide world of radishes, from little red orbs to lengthy white daikons, with recipes by James Beard Award-winning—and Iron Chef America victor— chef Vitaly Paley. By Kris Wetherbee & Peter Szymczak / Photography by John Valls
34 Do you know how to say Vee-own-yay?
datebook 11 Plan your culinary calendar with our region-by-region overview of Pacific Northwest food and drink events.
16–19 Washington FareStart’s Guest Chef on the Waterfront
The Seasonal Chef 23 Idaho chef Dustan Bristol shares his recipe for raspberry salsa. By James Patrick Kelly
20–22 British Columbia
Tasting Notes 40
34
Compiled by Cole Danehower
Pick of the Palate 48 Washington’s Crayelle Cellars makes a great summer Riesling. On the trail with chef Grant Achatz in Seattle and Portland.
Taste Victoria
By Cole Danehower
Northwest Passage 58
www.nwpalate.com
By Joan Cirillo
Oregon State Fair + Where to Dine: Salem
de pa rt m en ts
Wine views and reviews.
Portland honors hometown culinary hero James Beard with plans for a public market and wins at the annual James Beard Foundation Awards.
11–15 Oregon
With its beguiling name and seductive tropical aromas, Viognier is our favorite summer sipper. By Jennifer Cossey
40
in the news 8
On the cover: Chef Ben Bettinger By Peter Szymczak
(Beaker & Flask, Portland, OR) flexes his new radish tattoo. Photo by john valls
Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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starters
A unique winery/art gallery showcasing the exceptional talents of owner James Frey. Trisaetum is a must see. -Paul Gregutt, Wine Enthusiast
One of the “hottest ‘in’ wines of the area” difficult to find outside the state’s borders. -Harvey Steiman, Wine Spectator
From its caves to its wine-inspired art gallery, Trisaetum elevates the grape. -Sara Schneider, Sunset Magazine
Tasting Room & Art Gallery Please visit us, Wednesday through monday, 11am - 4pm
18401 Ribbon ridge RD newberg, oregon
(503) 538-9898 trisaetum.com
4
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
I
n my 2004 James Beard Foundation Journalism Award acceptance remarks, I told the New York culinary-writing audience they should pay attention to Oregon. There was a fresh wine and food energy in the state, I declared. Rather imperiously, I scolded that though we were about as far from New York as you could get in the lower 48, we were not a backwater and that they would see remarkable things coming out of the late, great, Jim Beard’s home state. Little did I know. At this year’s Beard Awards, the Pacific Northwest, and Oregon in particular, was roundly recognized for its culinary talent. The Beards acknowledge professional excellence in the culinary arts and media (print, broadcast, and online). Despite some controversies over the years, they have become a much-anticipated event and envied professional achievement. When the 2011 nominees were announced, we were elated to see Seattle’s redoubtable Tom Douglas as one of only five people tapped for the nation’s Outstanding Restaurateur Award. Likewise, the legendary Seattle restaurant Canlis (stewarded by thirdgeneration owners Mark and Brian Canlis) was nominated for the Outstanding Service Award, placing it in the same elite rank as other nominated restaurants created by such household names as Thomas Keller, Rick Bayless, and Emeril Lagasse. And most honorably, FareStart, the Seattle-based culinary
job training and placement program for homeless and disadvantaged individuals, received the Humanitarian of the Year Award. Among the national nominees—and eventual winners—was Portland’s chef Gabriel Rucker (Le Pigeon, Little Bird) as Rising Star Chef of the Year. This is one of the most prestigious honors, recognizing a chef under the age of 30 who “displays an impressive talent and who is likely to have a significant impact on the industry in years to come.” The nominees for this year’s Best Chef: Northwest included Seattle’s Matt Dillon (Sitka & Spruce) and Ethan Stowell (Staple & Fancy Mercantile, among other restaurants). For once, Portland chefs were in the majority, with Cathy Whims (Nostrana), Andy Ricker (Pok Pok), and Christopher Israel (Grüner) also selected. In the journalism arena, two of Portland’s resident cookbook authors received awards, recognizing the rise of food writing in the Pacific Northwest. For
more on the winners, turn to our story on page 8. Back in 2004 the region had plenty of talent, certainly, just not so much national recognition of it. This year, the Beards came a long way in praising what readers of Northwest Palate already know: the Northwest is the nation’s gastronomic heartland!
Editor-in-chief
photo by erin thomas
trisaetum
Welcome home, Jim
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1,033 Certiied Organic Acres Family Owned & Independent Learn More: www.kingestate.com King Estate uses estate grown organic grapes and sustainably farmed grapes from our extended family of growers.
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Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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contributors
Joan Cirillo is an awardwinning journalist and cookbook author. She began writing about food as a staff writer for the Associated Press in New York. Now based in Portland, she returns to the Big Apple almost every year to cover the James Beard Awards—see her report on this year’s winners on pages 8 and 16. She has also contributed to the Best Places Portland guidebook, Travel Portland and Travel Oregon magazines, and many other national and regional publications.
Viognier (see “Do you know how to say Vee-own-yay? ” on page 34) might be new on the radar to some wine tasters, but not Jennifer Cossey. Since relocating to the Willamette Valley from California, she has worked in a variety of capacities within the wine industry. She is a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers and a Certified Specialist of Wine through the Society of Wine Educators. At Soléna and Grand Cru Estates Winery, she does marketing, sales, and event coordination. She also writes for Sommelier Journal, Oregon Wine Press, and Mix magazine.
Emily Grosvenor teaches magazine writing at the University of Oregon and keeps an awardwinning hyper-local blog—DesperatelySeekingSalem.com—that serves as inspiration for her column of the same name in the Statesman Journal about life in Oregon’s small-town capital. (Read her report on this year’s Oregon State Fair and her favorite places to dine in Salem on page 11.) She also writes profiles of people, places, and food, as well as essays and reviews for Salon.com, Edible Portland, AAA Via, 1859 Magazine, and Publishers Weekly.
Boise-based writer James Patrick Kelly makes frequent trips to the Belle District in Nampa, Idaho, a budding area with a bevy of used bookstores and collectibles shops, not to mention one of the best restaurants in the Gem State. See page 23 for his profile of Brick 29 Bistro’s chef Dustan Bristol, who uses local summer berries in creative ways. Kelly is also the author of Moon Idaho, a travel guide recently published by Avalon Travel Publishing, and he teaches journalism at Boise State University. Check out his travel blog at GemStateJunket.blogspot.com.
Advertising National & Regional Fatima Young: 360-631-5883 • fatima@nwpalate.com
Oregon Reagan Nauheim: 503-805-6405 • reagan@nwpalate.com
publisher
founder
Cole Danehower
Cameron Nagel
Emily Stoller Smith: 503-474-7262 • emily@nwpalate.com
British Columbia & Washington Brannan Willson: 503-683-1525 • brannan@nwpalate.com
Editor-in-chief
Cole Danehower
editor
Peter Szymczak
Art Director
Vanessa Duff
C o n t r i b u t o r s Joan Cirillo, Jennifer Cossey, Emily Grosvenor, James Patrick Kelly, Shelora Sheldan, Kris Wetherbee, David Paul Williams C o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r a p h e r s Clare Barboza, Max Crowell, Cameron Duff, Dana Hopper-Kelly, David Lanthan Reamer, Joe Rotter, Peter Szymczak, Erin Thomas, John Valls, David Paul Williams
T a s t i n g P a n e l i s t s Anita Boomer, Cole Danehower, Harry Hertscheg, Peter Szymczak i n t e r n Max Crowell Northwest Palate magazine (ISSN 0892-8363) is published bimonthly by Pacifica Publishing, Inc., 1321 SW Maplecrest Dr., Portland, OR 97219 and is available by mail subscription at the rate of $25 for one year, $50 for two years. • The Canadian subscription rate is $35cdn per year. The European air-mail subscription rate is $57usd per year. Send payment to: Northwest Palate, P.O. Box 10860, Portland, OR 97296-0860 Phone: 503-224-6039 or 1-800-398-7842. • Website: nwpalate.com • Subscriber Services: info@nwpalate.com • Letters to the Editor: editorial@nwpalate.com. • For advertising information and rate cards, phone: 1-800-398-7842. • Retail sales program available. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Portland, Oregon. Postmaster: Send address changes to Northwest Palate Magazine, P.O. Box 10860, Portland, OR 97296-0860. PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40035723. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE CANADIAN ADDRESSES TO EXPRESS MESSENGER INTERNATIONAL P.O. BOX 25058 LONDON BRC, ONTARIO, CANADA N6C 6A8 • © 2011 Pacifica Publishing, Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner, including photocopying, without written permission.
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
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John Valls’s style is as organic as his subject matter. In this issue, he teams up again with Vitaly Paley (the photographer-chef duo previously worked together on The Paley’s Place Cookbook) to show the wild side of radishes (see page 28). Valls earned his MFA in photography at SUNY New Paltz, located in the center of New York’s agricultural heartland. Now based in Portland, Valls fits right in: he’s an avid cyclist who rides both motorized and pedal-powered varieties of bikes, and he also stays active documenting the local food scene for other local publications including MIX and Edible Portland.
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Internationally published author, freelance writer, recipe developer, and former market grower Kris Wetherbee reveals a world of radishes beyond the common salad garnish red variety in her story, “Radish Revelations” on page 28. She enjoys healthy and sustainable food choices and frequently travels the Northwest with her photographer husband Rick in search of tasty treasures. Wetherbee is the author of the Oregon Farmers’ Market Cookbook and Guide and the Washington Farmers’ Market Cookbook and Guide. Her recipes and articles on food and travel have appeared in Coastal Living, Relish, Herb Companion, MIX, and Delicious Living magazines.
Coming in the January/ February 2012 issue: The Northwest Palate Reader’s Choice Awards
Go fishing on the Yakima River with David Paul Williams—see page 24. Williams is a freelance writer and writing teacher, and gives presentations to fishing clubs and organizations in Washington and Oregon. His articles have also appeared in Backpacker, Seattle Metropolitan, American Angler, Northwest Travel, Northwest Fly Fishing, Fly Fusion, and elsewhere. He blogs about fishing at blog. seattlepi.com/flyfishing/ and can be found online at www.thewriterealtor.com.
Tell us your pick of the best Northwest restaurant or chef. Share your most-loved wine and winery from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia, or Idaho. What’s your top-choice regional culinary destination?
Northwest Palate wants to know! Send an email telling us about your favorite Northwest culinary discovery and you might earn a place in our January/ February 2012 issue. Send your recommendations to: readerschoice@nwpalate.com today!
Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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BY JOAN CIRILLO
ng jam ri es beard
Gabriel Rucker was honored as Rising Star Chef of the Year, and Andy Ricker, was named Best Chef: Northwest. Rucker, nominated four years in a row for the national award, squeaked under the age cutoff (he just turned 30) to become the first Oregon chef to receive the honor. The pigeontattooed chef splits his time between his intimate Frenchinspired eatery, Le Pigeon, and his new downtown bistro, Little Bird. Ricker, whose Thai street-food shack Pok Pok has garnered national attention, broke the mold of the award, traditionally given to chefs focused on fine dining. “It’s still weird,” Ricker wrote in an email from Thailand, echoing his surprise win at the glitzy awards ceremony held this past May at New York’s Lincoln Center. “I am hopeful that this is not just a blip in the record of the James Beard Awards … and that more places serving specific regional foods from non-European countries get recognized in the future,” he wrote. His twice-yearly travel to Thailand for inspiration and menu ideas will remain a priority. And he hopes his win “will encourage others to specialize in their native regional cuisine without too much compromise for the American palate and to do so at a higher level of quality.” As for Rucker, his fondness for foie gras and offal, along with his adventurous creations and layered flavors, won’t change. “My ambition is not to become too ambitious,” he said of the impact of the award. At Le Pigeon, Rucker revels in cooking in his centerpiece open kitchen, rimmed by diners at the counter and three nearby communal tables. He often leaves his perch at the stove to bring his creations to the diner. “I really like making people happy with good food,” he said. c
el
lence
During his acceptance speech, Ricker thanked the city of Portland: “It is a very special place. The city has allowed us to do what we do, and I just don’t think Pok Pok could have happened anywhere else.” Andy Ricker Best Chef: Northwest 8
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
“My ambition is not to become too ambitious.” Gabriel Rucker Rising Star Chef of the Year
PHotos by David Lanthan Reamer
ex
As the proposed James Beard Public Market in Portland gets a green light from county commissioners, the city’s chefs and writers are celebrating their groundbreaking wins at this year’s James Beard Foundation Awards. The annual culinary awards, the Oscars of the food world, was a coup for the Rose City, putting national focus on two restaurant chefs…
Portland Honors culinary icon James Beard Hon o
in the news
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TULALIP RESORT CASINO PRESENTS
Winemakers Dinners
UPCOMING EVENTS:
Barrage Cellars July 9th
5:00 PM - 9:00 PM Mpulse Lounge $85 Pre Purchase $95 Day of
Featured Guest Kevin Correll
Owner & Winemaker Barrage Cellars Kevin’s journey into the wine business started as a hobby, making wine in his garage about 12 years ago. That hobby quickly grew into a passion. Kevin took the leap and started Barrage Cellars in 2005, making wine in the true Garagiste fashion with a focus on Terroir and 100% varietals.
Mi Sueno Winery August 6th
5:00 PM - 9:00 PM Mpulse Lounge $110 Pre Purchase $125 Day of
Featured Guest Rolando Herrera
Owner & Winemaker Mi Sueno Winery A Fiesta on the patio of Mpulse Lounge featuring winemaker Rolando Herrera of Mi Sueno Winery, Sommelier Tommy Thompson and Executive Chef Perry Mascitti. Chef Perry will take us on a Festival of tastes from Mexico and the Pacific Coastal Regions while Rolando and Tommy expertly pair the wines of Mi Sueno. Rolando produces nearly 6,500 cases of hand crafted, ultrapremium wine. In 2003, a collection of limited edition reserve wines carrying the family name, Herrera, was added to the portfolio. On three separate occasions Mi Sueño has been honored to have a wine served at a White House state dinner. They’ve included the 1999 Los Carneros Chardonnay, 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River and most recently, the 2006 Herrera Cabernet Sauvignon Selección Rebecca.
For more information and tickets, go to www.brownpapertickets.com I-5 Exit 200 | www.TulalipResort.com
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Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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Pictured below: Roasted Peaches in Bourbon Syrup with Smoked Salt from Mark Bitterman’s James Beard Foundation Award-winning book, Salted. Visit www.nwpalate.com to get the recipe.
PHotos courtesy Mark Bitterman
continued from page 8
mark bitterman Reference and Scholarship Book Award
While the young chef is being flooded with offers to write his first cookbook, two Portland authors brought home major awards in this year’s cookbook competition. The self-described “selmelier” Mark Bitterman won the Reference and Scholarship Book Award for his well-researched and elegantly styled book, Salted: A Manifesto on the World’s Most Essential Mineral with Recipes. The book is an outgrowth of his charming Portland store, The Meadow, devoted to artisan salts, pepper, chocolate, flowers, and bitters. Bitterman and his wife and partner, Jennifer, split their time between the Portland location and a new outpost in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. Highlighting the current interest in whole grains, pastry chef Kim Boyce won the Baking and Dessert category for her book, Good to the Grain: Baking with Whole-Grain Flours. Boyce, a former pastry chef at Spago and Campanile, moved to Portland from Los Angeles last year. She plans to open her own bakery, called “Bakeshop,” this summer. “The pastries we do are all an extension of my cookbook,” she said. Meanwhile, the proposed year-round public market honoring Portland native and Pacific Northwest culinary icon James Beard took a giant step forward. Multnomah County commissioners voted unanimously to authorize negotiations to sell a four-block parcel (currently surface parking lots) for the downtown waterfront market on the west side of the Morrison Bridge. The county will be negotiating with Melvin Mark Development Company, which plans to buy the land for roughly $10 million and develop the market and a 17-story retail tower. Ron Paul, who has spearheaded the market effort for the past decade, said the indoor/ outdoor market would house 110 permanent indoor vendors and 40 day tables for ad hoc vendors. Target opening date is 2016. Of the vote, Paul said: “It was a milestone and the necessary affirmation on the county’s part.”
PHoto by David Lanthan Reamer
Find out more about the James Beard Public Market at www.portlandpublicmarket.com.
Kim Boyce Baking and Dessert Book Award
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
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Datebook summer F
AUGUST 26– SEPTEMBER 5
Oregon State Fair Salem, OR
rom carnival rides and culinary delights, to livestock and agricultural exhibits, the Oregon State Fair and Expo Center has it all. The state’s capital welcomes food producers, craft artisans, and more than 380,000 fairgoers to this year’s 152nd annual event. The celebration of all things Oregonian will offer a bounty beyond standard fair foods— snow cones, cotton candy, funnel cakes, curly fries, and the like. Beer will be featured at the new brewpub, built atop the Americraft Center overlooking the sprawling expanse of the fairgrounds. Wine professionals will serve up award-winning Oregon wines by the taste and by the glass alongside Oregon cheeses from throughout the state at the Wine Patio. The opening event: “Pairings! A celebration of Oregon’s wine, cuisine and music” brings together innovative plates by some of the state’s top food talents and participating wineries, accompanied by Patrick Lamb, the Portland jazz saxophonist who heads up an ensemble paying homage to Ray Charles in a musical tribute. Admission to the fairgrounds is $11 for adults, $6 for children 6-12 and seniors, and free for children 5 and under. For more information visit www.oregonstatefair.com.
Eat salem By Emily Grosvenor
T
he city of Oregon’s political movers and shakers finally has a food scene worth advocating, thanks to a group of seasoned chefs trying new approaches and a handful of talented fresh faces rising in the ranks.
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One of the most exciting additions is chef David Rosales’s La Capitale (www.lacapitalesalem.com, 503-585-1975). Rosales, the son of prominent Mexican restaurateur Pedro Rosales, of La Margarita Co., honed his technique at various restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area, including Chez Panisse in Berkeley, before bringing his passion for French cuisine to a prime corner seat in the city’s historic Pacific Building. Legislators and lobbyists alike come for French staples such as croque monsieur and grilled-toorder bavette steak. The houseground burger is the city’s best, as is the charcuterie board featuring housemade all-pork (no barrel) terrine. Northwest wines are well represented on the list, and a well-
La Capitale provisioned bar and cocktail list will appease all sides. Rosales’s new restaurant, Andaluz (503-585-1773) is located right next door and expands Salem’s palate into Spanish tapas territory—think small, shareable plates of piquillo peppers stuffed
with olive oil–poached albacore tuna, saffron aioli and patatas bravas, and deep-fried churros with chocolate dipping sauce. Paella is the special on Wednesday evenings. Salem-raised restaurateurs Steve and Becky Mucha ran a
Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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datebook Oregon | Christo's
Orupa continued from page 11
Sail, Sip, and Savor Sail with Terry Thompson, owner of Urban Enoteca on their first annual wine cruise. The Celebrity Solstice combines the extraordinary service of a Celebrity cruise with all the amenities of a destination resort. These ships raise the bar with the first ever two-story glass wine tower at sea, the first Enomatic wine preservation and pouring system, and a wine list of over 500 selections - including some of the world’s rarest and most sought-after vintages. Concierge Class Staterooms starting at $1420 pp. Cruise sails April 1, 2012 for 7 nights to the W. Caribbean. Call now to reserve your stateroom, 800-368-4369 or vacation@ustravel.us
wine. food. venue. u n e q u a l e d
Formerly Doug Fox Travel & Cruise
Price is based on double occupancy per person and includes cruise, taxes, fees and Taste of the Vineyards wine program. Does not include air, transfers or gratuities. WA SOT #601824183.
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
successful restaurant on California’s Catalina Island for seven years before returning to their home district three years ago to open Word of Mouth Bistro (www.wordofsalem.com, 503-930-4285). The popular power lunch and brunch spot is renowned for crème brûlée French toast—a sizzling slice of challah with an exquisitely creamy center and crackling sugar crust—and interesting specialty sandwiches. Last fall, chef Hans Afshar, arbiter of schnitzel and homemade pasta at his Old Europe restaurant, re-imagined his Continental stylings at a new downtown location complete with new menu and name—Orupa (www.orupasalem.com, 503-588-3639). Go for the fish of the day and specials with European-style sauces. In West Salem, the Crooked House Bistro (www.crookedhousebistro.com, 503-385-8851) takes its cues from the region’s similarities to Burgundy, pairing local and French wines with seasonal cuisine including fresh radishes, escargot, veal shortbreads, and a populist-pleasing dish of Copper River salmon with a Champagne vinegar beurre blanc. Salem’s up-and-comers gather at the intimate bar at Venti’s (www.ventiscafe. com, 503-399-8733), featuring local music and the city’s best regional microbrew selection. Owner Dino Venti takes pub fare to a new level with a menu of Asian and Mediterranean/American fusion dishes including yakisoba bowls, teriyaki, falafel, and spiced sweet potato fries. Ignore the unprepossessing building of
Farm Food
a former Mexican restaurant. Gambaretti’s (503-339-7446) is a new, family-style restaurant offering hearty, reasonably priced takes on Italian staples such as spaghetti carbonara, lasagna, chicken marsala, and even a gluten-free pasta option. Robert’s Crossing (503-584-1035) is one of Salem’s newest restaurants, located right next to a set of train tracks. Linger over the Northwest-focused menu and wine list long enough and you might be able to partake of one of the “Crossing Bell Drink Specials,” available only when you hear the rumbling of boxcars. Flavor is in the majority at Super Pho (www.superpho.webs.com, 503-391-4250), which just opened a second location in downtown Salem. Choose from seven variations on pho bo, Vietnamese beef noodle soup, and an extensive vegetarian menu. Pizza joint Christo’s (503-371-2892) recently found a new home in the budding new arts district at Market and Broadway streets, just one mile from the fairgrounds. Located across from the Salem Cinema, the city’s only independent movie theater, Christo’s spins crisp-crusted, Neapolitan-styled
Where to stay
2 Located in the heart of Salem’s historic downtown, The Grand Hotel (www.grandhotelsalem.com, 503-540-7800) offers the best access to the city’s easily walkable center. 2 Learn Salem from a local at Betty’s Bed and Breakfast (www.salemoregonbedandbreakfast.com, 503-399-7848). During the summer season, host Betty DeHamer serves delicious, homemade seasonal breakfasts in her home’s sunroom. 2 Position yourself near wine country and a serene state park at the intimate Inn at Champoeg (www.innatchampoeg.com, 503-678-6088) in St. Paul, just a 15-minute drive to Salem.
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datebook Oregon |
crusts and bakes them with farm-fresh toppings in a wood-fired oven. Its open kitchen and lively bar make it a favorite neighborhood gathering spot. Salem has seen a handful of authentic Mexican and slow-roasted barbecue food carts rise up along Silverton Road, which passes by the fairgrounds. Minto Island Growers, the local family farm that provides produce to many restaurants in Salem and Portland, recently opened an on-site farm stand and food cart, Farm Food (www.mintogrowers.com, 503-799-6967), which serves vegetable dishes based on in-season crops and sweet treats such as milkshakes and serrano-lime ice pops. The city’s worst kept secret, Little Cannoli Bakery (www.littlecannolibakery.com, 503-585-9288), has reopened in a new, tucked-away downstairs space in the Reed Opera House. Folks flock for the signature caramelized cannoli, stuffed with sweet ricotta, puffed pastries, cookies, biscotti, éclairs, and pizelles. With so many new offerings, visitors to Salem and the State Fair have just cause to seek finer food beyond carnival fare.
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oceanfront • cannon beach • newport
• Spacious Balconies • Fireplaces/In-Room Spas • Kitchenettes/Free Wi-Fi • Pool/Sauna/Spa • Pets Welcome!
Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach
Guest Room, Newport
888.448.4449 www.hallmarkinns.com
Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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datebook Oregon | JULY 9, 13–16 Sagebrush Classic, Bend, OR Deschutes Brewery’s Sagebrush
AUGUST 26–28
Eat Taste Love in the Willamette Valley Newberg, OR A duo of new wine country B&Bs, Deer Haven Farms and Le Puy, is hosting a joint series of seasonally inspired weekend stays intended to give guests "fresh new ideas and perspective on sustainable living." The first event, christened "Vitality," takes place the last weekend in August and showcases Oregon at the height of its sublime, summertime best, with winery tours at Soléna & Grand Cru Estates and Coeur de Terre Vineyard, interspersed with alfresco meals and receptions at both inns. Along the way, learn about the sustainable practices in use at each property—from biodynamic winemaking and vineyard management, to growing fruit and vegetables. The series continues in fall with "Harvest" on October 14 and 15, and "Tranquility" from January 27–29. For more information visit www.lepuy-inn.com/eattastelove.html.
OREGON
JULY 9 Uncorked–The Oregon Wine and Art Auction, Dayton, OR Enjoy wines from
top Oregon wineries—Amity Vineyards, Brooks Winery, Cristom, Redhawk, Youngberg Hill Inn & Vineyards, Zerba, and host winery, Methven Family Vineyards—during an evening of wining, dining, and auctions to benefit the Virginia Garcia Memorial Foundation, The Willamette Valley Cancer Foundation, and youth scholarships. Tickets are $125. For more information visit www.theoregonwineandartauction.org.
JULY 9 & 10, 17 Oregon Lavender Festival, various locations Inhale the relaxing aroma of
lavender and take in the sight of lavender fields in full bloom as more than 20 Oregon farms host all-day events the weekend of July 9 and 10. For more information visit www.oregonlavenderfestival. com or call 971-533-7753. The aromatherapy continues on Sunday, July 17, at Red Ridge Farms’ Lavender Extravaganza. Learn how to grow and tend a lavender garden, then head down to the field and harvest enough to make a wreath. Cost is $35. Call 503-864-8502 for reservations. For more information visit www.redridgefarms.com.
Classic has benefited the Central Oregon community for 22 years, raising more than $2 million for a variety of nonprofit organizations. Events include the Community Challenge/ Scramble on July 9, Street Fare on July 13, gourmet dinners on July 14, the Golf Classic on July 15, and on July 16, the Classic Feast, showcasing the culinary artistry from a stellar lineup of local and international chefs, paired with the outstanding beers of Deschutes Brewery. For more information visit www.sagebrush.org or call 503-332-5000.
JULY 10–AUGUST 28 Chef In My Garden, Portland, OR This series of eight dinners features top Portland chefs—Cathy Whims of Nostrana on July 10 and Mama Doris of Andina on July 24, for example—preparing a meal in some of the city’s most artistically landscaped gardens. Proceeds from the dinners support the schooland home-based gardening efforts of local nonprofit organization Growing Gardens. For more information call 503-284-8420 or visit www.growing-gardens.org.
JULY 16 Bastille Day Block Party, Portland, OR Francophiles are encouraged to bring cans
of nonperishable food items to this benefit for the Oregon Food Bank, as North Portland’s Pix Patisserie hosts a funfilled day of festivities in celebration of Bastille Day. There will be dancing in the streets with live music from local bands, Champagne and Oyster Bar, mini Médoc Fun Run, grape stomping, sabering demonstration, et bien plus encore. For more information go online at www.pixpatisserie.com.
JULY 22 Winemakers Dinner, Portland, OR
H5O bistro features the wines of Benton Lane Winery, based in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, during a multi-course meal prepared by chef Nick Yanes. For reservations call 503-484-1415 or visit www.h5obistro.com.
JULY 23 Starry Night, Dayton, OR Stoller
Vineyards is the site for the evening’s sparkling wine reception, silent auction, traditional salmon bake, live auction, and music with dancing under the stars. Tickets are $100, with proceeds benefiting the McMinnville Education Foundation, a non-profit that provides local schoolteachers with resources to improve classroom education in public schools. For more information visit www.mac40kids.org.
JULY 28–31 Oregon Brewers Festival, Portland, OR Taking place on the main
festival grounds at Waterfront Park along the banks of the Willamette River, this 24th annual event brings together more than 80 craft beers—from ambers and Belgians, to pale ales, pilsners, and stouts—from around the Northwest and the nation to quench your thirst, plus an assortment
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of belly-filling foods from local restaurants, and the soul-satisfying sounds of live music. Other attractions include the Oregon Brewers Dinner to be held on July 27, and the Oregon Brewers Brunch and Parade on the morning of July 28. For more information visit www. oregonbrewfest.com or call 503-778-5917.
JULY 29–31 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, OR
Celebrating its landmark 25th year, this now legendary festival dedicated to all things Pinot Noir kicks off with Friday night’s Grand Dinner, followed by Saturday night’s Salmon Bake. Other highlights are alfresco tastings, vineyard tours, winery luncheons, and seminars with world-renowned winemakers. Full weekend packages are sold out, but tickets to Sunday’s Passport to Pinot were still available as of press time. For more information visit www.ipnc.org.
Urban contemporary dining. Delight your senses at H5O bistro & bar. In Portland, where downtown meets the river. Check out special offers at HotelFifty.com.
AUGUST 5 & 6 Best of Oregon Food & Wine Festival, Lake Oswego, OR Sample some of the state’s best food and drink offerings while helping raise money for the Children’s Cancer Association. The Charity Golf Tournament takes place at the Lake Oswego Golf Course on Friday, followed by the “Best Cocktails Party” from 5–9pm. Saturday evening’s tasting event will be held at Millennium Plaza Park from 6–10pm. For more information visit www.bestoforegonfoodandwine.com.
AUGUST 24–27 World of Wine Festival, Jacksonville, OR Wineries from Southern
Oregon will be showcased during a series of events, kicking off with a cocktail reception on Wednesday. Learn how to taste wine better at the “Sensory Clinics” taking place on Thursday and Friday, followed by Friday night’s Gala Dinner. More than 40 wineries will be pouring at Saturday evening’s Grand Tasting. For more information visit www.worldofwinefestival.com.
future file
Perfectly Portland. 50 SW Morrison Portland, OR 877.237.6775
Elevated culinary experience. Excite your palate at Altitude. And savor The Spa. Less than an hour above Portland. Visit TheResort.com for seasonal packages.
SEPTEMBER 10 & 11
Pinot in the City Portland, OR Likely the largest gathering of Oregon wineries ever, approximately 150 Willamette Valley producers will transform a full Portland city block (NW 9th between Marshall and Northrup) into a wine country experience. Barrel-making demonstrations, soil sample discussions, book signings, and other exhibitions will complement the wine pouring from 2–6 pm both days. For more information visit www.willamettewines.com.
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Mt. Hood. Naturally. Just off Hwy 26 Welches, OR 877.439.6774
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FareStart’s Guest Chef on the Waterfront Seattle, WA
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ore than 70 of Seattle’s top chefs, breweries, and wineries join together for one delicious evening to benefit FareStart, the nonprofit organization that received the James Beard Foundation’s 2011 Humanitarian of the Year Award. Tickets are $65 in advance, $75 at the door. For more information visit www.farestart.org. Each year the James Beard Foundation presents an award to a person or organization in the food world that is selfless in its giving and tireless in its work to better the lives of others and society at large. The recipient of the James Beard Foundation’s 2011 Humanitarian of the Year Award is FareStart, a Seattle-based nonprofit organization. FareStart is a culinary and job training and placement program for homeless and disadvantaged individuals. “But we’re way more than that,” said FareStart’s Executive Director Megan Karch. “We have all the wraparound services of case management, life skills, and housing support for individuals who are homeless, so they can truly take back their lives.”
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Since its founding in 1988 by chef David Lee, FareStart has provided culinary job training for nearly 5,000 individuals, placing 80 percent in jobs in the foodservice and hospitality industries. “My goal was really to turn people on to food ‌ and this idea of cooking being a noble profession,â€? Lee said. FareStart provides nutritious, daily meals to childcare centers and homeless shelters in Seattle. The kitchens for these meals, along with a public restaurant, cafĂŠ, and catering operation, provide on-the-job experience for homeless and at-risk youth and adults. An eight-week Youth Barista Training
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and Education Program gives hands-on training to 16-to-23-year-olds at FareStart’s CafĂŠ at 2100, located at 2100 24th Ave. South in the Rainier Valley of south Seattle. Adults train for four months at The FareStart Restaurant at 7th and Virginia in downtown Seattle. The restaurant serves lunch weekdays and at its popular series of Guest Chef Night dinners on Thursdays. In addition, these eateries provide a connection between the community and the trainees. “Food is really a tool that can transform lives—whether it’s through providing healthy, nutritious meals to people in need, or whether it’s getting
farmed food to schools and childcare, or whether it’s providing life skills at a job,� said Karch. The national recognition is timely, with the launch this year of Catalyst Kitchens, a new program that seeks to create a national network of organizations using FareStart as the model. In accepting the award, Karch thanked FareStart’s board, donors, and volunteers, but singled out the students who participate in the FareStart program. “It’s their commitment to changing their lives that really is the inspiration for us and for what we do.� —Joan Cirillo
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oc\i epno bm`\o rdi`) There is more than one hill in the Dundee Hills and we think you’ll agree that the grass is a little greener on our side. We oer worldclass wines and genuine hospitality in a stunning setting. Come for a relaxing day or escape to one of our guest houses for the weekend. Open daily from 11am-5pm !
16161 NE McDougall Road Dayton, Oregon 97114 503.864.3404 !
www.stollervineyards.com Mention this ad for a complimentary tasting.
Stoller_half page NWP Final.indd 3
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WASHINGTON JULY 9 Ohme Gardens Food & Wine Gala, Wenatchee, WA Nestled on a hillside overlooking the Columbia River and Wenatchee Valley, the lush grounds of Ohme Gardens will provide a picturesque setting as regional chefs offer tastes and local wineries—Chateau Faire le Pont, Martin-Scott, and Saint Laurent, just to name a few—pour their wines. For tickets visit www.wenatcheewines.com, and for lodging and area information visit www.wenatcheevalley.org.
JULY 9, AUGUST 13, SEPTEMBER 10 SalmonChanted Evening, Seattle, WA Sponsored by Seattle chef and restaurateur Tom Douglas, this monthly alfresco salmon feast takes place from 5-7pm at Victor Steinbrueck Park near Seattle’s Pike Place Market. Diners pick up their food buffet-style and then spread out on the grass for a picnic in the park, while savoring this historic part of the city. Cost is $15 and all proceeds benefit the Seattle Parks Department. For more information visit www.tomdouglas.com.
JULY 15 & 16 Raspberry Festival, Lynden, WA The peak of harvest season, July is National
Raspberry Month and time to celebrate in Whatcom County, where approximately two-thirds of the nation’s total crop is grown. Partake at Saturday’s
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JULY 15–17
Kirkland Uncorked Kirkland, WA Lake Washington provides the scenic backdrop for this signature summer celebration of food, wine, art, and outdoor fun. Nearly 20 wineries, including well-known names such as Maryhill Winery, Zerba Cellars, and O • S Winery, as well as smaller family producers such as Northwest Totem Cellars and Madsen Family Cellars, will be pouring. A grilling cook-off, chef demonstrations, and local restaurant booths will sate any appetite, while impressive art displays will tempt the esthete in all of us. Tickets at the door are $30 and include 10 tasting tokens and a commemorative wine glass; non-tasting admission is $15. For advance tickets, visit www.kirklanduncorked.com.
raspberry pancake breakfast at the Lynden Community Center, work off those carbs at the 5K fun run/walk, watch the Razz & Shine car show, or go wine tasting at Samson Estates Winery, which is also home to a working raspberry farm. For more information visit www.bellingham.org/press-releases/14thannual-northwest-raspberry-festival/.
JULY 15–17 Bite of Seattle, Seattle, WA
Enjoying tastes from more than 50 Seattle-area restaurants, watching top chefs lead cooking
demonstrations, and discovering new culinary products are just a few of the tempting things to do at this massive food and beverage extravaganza. For more information visit www.comcastbiteofseattle.com.
JULY 15–17 Lavender Festival, Sequim, WA To highlight the sweet and savory applications of lavender, local chefs lead cooking demonstrations at herb farms located from Puget Sound to the Olympic Peninsula. Also check out the Street Fair featuring local restaurants and arts and crafts displays in downtown Sequim. For more information visit www.lavenderfestival.com.
JULY 16 Art Walk & Wine Gala, Prosser, WA More than 30 Washington wineries, 20 local food vendors, and live music combine for a fun afternoon of tasting in downtown Prosser along historic 6th Street. For more information visit www.prosserchamber.org or call 509-786-3177.
JULY 16–SEPTEMBER 10 Summer Concert Series, Woodinville, WA Wine, food, and
Kirkland is an art-filled haven situated on the shores of Lake Washington with panoramic views of the Seattle skyline and the majestic Olympic Mountains. Sample elegant cuisine and fine wine, boating on Lake Washington, and sumptuous lodging accommodations.
music come together on the beautifully landscaped grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery. Marquee performers include Pink Martini on September 3, Peter Frampton on August 12, and Sarah McLachlan on July 19. For complete concert schedules and ticket information visit www.ste-michelle.com.
JULY 30, AUGUST 6 Summer Concert Series, Goldendale, WA Maryhill Winery hosts top
musical acts—Yes and Styx on July 30, Gipsy Kings on August 6 to pair with their award-winning wines. For more information visit www.maryhillwinery.com.
AUGUST 6 Wine and Food Festival, Gig Harbor, WA The grounds of the new Harbor
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History Museum will be the site of the second annual event showcasing top wine producers and chefs, including celebrity chef Kevin Gillespie (shown at right), who was recently a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef. Thirty regional wineries and
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breweries will be pouring alongside food offerings from local restaurants. For more information visit www.harborwineandfoodfest.com.
AUGUST 12 Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame, Prosser, WA Taking
place on the grounds of the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center, the event includes the announcement of the 2011 Legends inductee—John Freeman of Waterbrook Winery. Freeman chose a Malbec-based wine sourced from an estate vineyard, Canyon Ranch near Prosser, as a tribute to the on-going discovery and potential that define Washington. “Malbec grown in Washington, although not heavily planted, is exceptional, very brambly and blackberry forward,” he says. Sampling and purchase of the 2011 Legends red wine, live and silent auctions, and Northwest cuisine food stations round out the evening. For more information visit www.theclorecenter.org/news.
AUGUST 13 Wine and Food Fair, Prosser, WA More than 30 Washington wineries and 2,500 wine enthusiasts come together at the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center for an afternoon of wine tasting, plus local food vendors and breweries. For more information visit www. prosserchamber.org or call 509-786-4545.
AUGUST 18–20 Auction of Washington Wines, Seattle & Woodinville, WA
Celebrate the wines of Washington and help benefit Seattle Children’s Hospital and the Washington Wine Education Foundation. The Picnic & Barrel Auction kicks things off on Thursday. On Friday night, winemaker dinners featuring gourmet cuisine prepared by top chefs take place in private homes across the greater Seattle area. Saturday starts with a 10K race and Kids Dash in Woodinville, followed later that night by the Wine Gala at Chateau Ste. Michelle. For more information visit www.auctionofwashingtonwines.org.
R O T S A O R E G O NIA
ann & tony kischner’s
Bistro l retaei & n wi hop giftnsow ! open
open every day • lunch . dinner . sunday brunch 503.325.6777 • bridgewaterbistro.com • 20 basin street, astoria or
AUGUST 20 Kitsap Wine Festival, Bremerton, WA
The scenic waterfront at Harborside Fountain Park is the site for an appetizing afternoon of tasting with more than 30 wineries from Washington and Oregon and local food vendors. For more information visit www.kitsapwinefestival.com.
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Taste Victoria, BC
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eyond all its British-ish charm, tea, and tweed, you’ll find a vibrant culinary community in Victoria, on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Winemakers, cider makers, craft brewers, organic farmers, bakers, and other food and drink artisans call the island home, as does a bevy of farmers markets, tasting rooms, and ace restaurants. master Daniela Cubelic will teach the art of tea cupping and how to judge tea based on leaf appearance, aroma, and color. Saturday afternoon’s structured wine tasting will pick out key Vancouver Island wine varietals and examine how they stand up to their international counterparts. Sunday’s Land and Sea Harvest dinner takes place at Vantreight Farms, a bucolic setting overlooking the ocean. Diners will sit at a long table set in the field and enjoy a zero-mile, multi-course menu cooked by chef Matt Rissling of the Marina Restaurant, paired with wines from Mission Hill Family Estate. Attendees are sure to leave stuffed and chuffed to bits. For more information visit www.victoriataste.com. —shelora SHELDAN
quailsgate.com
Many of the city’s finest food and drink offerings will be showcased over three delicious days during the Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine event taking place this July. The extended weekend kicks off Thursday with The Main Event—featuring more than 100 BC wines, craft spirits from local distillery Victoria Gin, artisan cheeses from Salt Spring Island, and tastes from more than 20 local chefs and restaurants. At Friday night’s Sips and Seafood, the moules-frites and oyster-shucking stations are not to be missed. Sip island wines and feast on an organically raised, whole roasted pig at Saturday’s Swine and the Vine. Tasters can also educate their palates during two days of seminars. On Friday, tea
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Photos provided by victoriataste.com and by Tourism British Columbia
Quails’ Gates .Years later, our family produced our FIRST VINTAGE in 1989. Today we celebrate years of growing grapes. For 365 days a year; from 1 valley; 9 vineyard sites; harvesting acres; comprised of different grape VARIETALS; our focus is consistent, to be Canada’s leading producer of quality wines, namely, PINOT NOIR and Chardonnay.
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Re-Discover WILD Westcoast. Wild Local Seasonal Cuisine Organic Edible Gardens Seaweed Spa treatments Unconventional Art Gallery Sunday Lunch by the sea
On Whiffen Spit Beach
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Re-Discover the West Coast 3
“Best Vancouver Island Restaurant” 2011 Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards
Meet
Robin Jackson, our new head chef!
To our Northwest Palate Readers:
Book 2 or more nights in July get 20% off www.sookeharbourhouse.com 1-888-328-1704
where to stay The majority of events are centrally located in Victoria’s picturesque Inner Harbour, not only lessening your carbon footprint, but also shortening the stumbling distance to your bed. 1 The Inn at Laurel Point (680 Montreal St., 250-386-8721, www.laurelpoint.com) offers remarkable views from ample balconies that overlook the harbor and Japanese Garden. 2 Chateau Victoria Hotel (740 Burdett Ave., 250-382-4221, www.chateauvictoria.com) boasts Victoria’s only rooftop restaurant, Vista 18, on the 18th floor, and the site of Sunday morning’s “Band, Bubbles, and Bennys.” Enjoy a three-course brunch featuring eggs Benedict, bubbly, jazz, and the city’s best view. 3 The Hotel Grand Pacific (463 Belleville St., 250-386-0450, www.hotelgrandpacific.com) offers luxurious suites and a full-service spa for soothing the savage hangover.
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JULY 8–16 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival, Vernon, BC Silver Star Mountain
Resort hosts a week of wine education seminars, winemaker dinners, and artist receptions. Savor the great outdoors with various hiking and biking recreational activities. For more information visit www.thewinefestivals.com.
JULY 18–22 Farm, Arts & Culinary Camp for Kids, Salt Spring Island, BC During
their farm stay, children ages 7–12 get a taste of life on Foxglove Farm as they experience growing, harvesting, and eating organic fruits and vegetables, plus feeding and caring for farm animals, collecting eggs, harvesting strawberries, digging potatoes, making compost, baking, and cooking. For more information visit www.foxglovefarmbc.ca or call 250-537-1989.
JULY 30, AUGUST 3 & 6 Bard-B-Q & Fireworks, Vancouver, BC Watch a
Shakespearean play and enjoy a salmon barbeque at intermission. After the show and dinner, enjoy coffee and treats while viewing the Celebration of Light fireworks. For more information visit www.bardonthebeach.org.
JULY 23 Cheese Rolling Festival, Whistler, BC A huge wheel of cheese is thrown down a hill and people daring enough to do so attempt to chase it. The winner takes the cheese and two ski-season passes to Whistler Blackcomb. In addition to the race, there will be tasting seminars, cheese experts, and plenty of Canadian cheeses to taste and buy. For more information visit www.canadiancheeserolling.ca.
Okanagan Summer Wine Festival
AUGUST 22, SEPTEMBER 11 & 18 Feast of Fields, various locations Three days
celebrating British Columbia’s bounty will take place across the province: on August 22 at Brock Farm in Okanagan Falls, September 11 at Krause Berry Farms in Langley on the Lower Mainland, and September 18 on Vancouver Island. At each event, local farmers, chefs, and winemakers offer sips and tastes, with proceeds benefiting FarmFolk/CityFolk, a non-profit organization helping to cultivate a local, sustainable food system. For more information visit www.feastoffields.com or call 604-730-0450.
Tourism British Columbia / Gunter Marx
BRITISH COLUMBIA
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AUGUST 28 Wild BC Seafood Fest, Richmond, BC Join members of BC’s
commercial fishing industry, acclaimed chefs, and seafood experts as they provide tips on buying, storing, and preparing a variety of wild, locally harvested seafood including salmon, sablefish, and sardines. For more information visit www. wildbcseafoodfest.com.
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SEPTEMBER 2–4 Jazz on the Mountain, Whistler, BC Top international and Canadian
jazz artists perform at more than 30 free and ticketed shows in and around the picturesque village of Whistler and its meandering pedestrianonly stone pathways. With more than 200 retail shops, 90 restaurants and bars, and a range of accommodations, jazzbos can enjoy the music and an amazing array of amenities and activities on the mountain playground. For more information call 1-800-WHISTLER or visit www.whistler.com. For the complete concert schedule and list of performers visit www.whistlerjazzfest.com.
For more culinary happenings across the Pacific Northwest visit us at www.nwpalate.com.
Okanagan Valley tantalus.ca
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Chefs often look back to fond food memories for inspiration. Dustan Bristol, the chef and owner of Brick 29 Bistro in Nampa, Idaho, recalls the freshly harvested fruits and vegetables from his family’s garden. remembering his roots
“I remember as a child picking vegetables out of my grandmother’s garden,” Bristol recalls. “I also remember in summer eating ripe raspberries out of my aunt’s garden.” Memories of handpicking berries and pulling root vegetables from the dirt sure have a way of shaping a kid, especially one who goes on to become a chef. This may help to explain why Bristol has such a passion for seasonally based menus that showcase everything from raspberries and heritage pork, to locally raised chicken, freshly picked morels and green beans, and Hagerman Valley rainbow trout fillets and Idaho potatoes. sourcing local
photos by Dana Hopper-Kelly and max crowell
“I prefer to use what’s available around here. It’s at the core of what I do in the kitchen. When I first opened Brick 29 Bistro [in 2007], I kind of had to go out of my way to find local products. But now I have farmers and ranchers knocking at my back door,” he says. His affinity for sourcing local products has helped, in part, to ignite an artisan farmers renaissance in the Snake River Valley, a region with a longstanding and proud tradition of agriculture—albeit, in the past, mostly orchard fruit, yellow
onions, and corn. “Once you make a relationship with a local farmer, it opens the door to another farmer. Farmers know other farmers. It’s like getting in the Facebook of agriculture,” Bristol says. The Berry Ranch, a nearby farm specializing in—you guessed it—strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries supplies Bristol throughout the summer. cooking outside of the box
“I like to use berries in savory ways, not just in desserts,” Bristol says. He makes berries the focal point of bright salsas that embellish grilled fish and juicy pork chops. Dishes like these have gotten Bristol noticed by the James Beard Foundation, which has placed him on the semi-finalist list for the Best Chef: Northwest award three years in a row. Looking to the future, Bristol just debuted a food truck, B29 strEATery. This kitchen on wheels puts out smaller and different takes on the restaurant’s menu. (Chicken confit sandwich, anyone?) Look for the food truck this summer at area winery events and at various other spots around the Snake River Valley, including on Friday and Saturday nights at the Payette Brewing Company in Boise, and on Thursdays at the Meridian Urban Market.
Brick 29 Bistro 320 11th Ave S, Nampa, ID, www.brick29.com, 208-468-0029 The Berry Ranch 7998 Highway 20/26, Nampa, ID, www.theberryranch.com, 208-466-3860
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Raspberry Salsa Courtesy of Dustan Bristol, Brick 29 Bistro, Nampa, ID Makes about 2 cups
• 2 cups fresh raspberries (any berries will work), cut in half • ¼ cup sweet onion, minced • 2 teaspoons jalapeño, minced • 1 clove garlic, minced • ¼ cup cilantro, chopped • 1 tablespoon canola oil • ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice • Salt and pepper to taste Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and gently toss until the mixture is fully incorporated. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least an hour before using. It’s a great accompaniment to grilled fish, pork, chicken, and baked Brie.
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B lu e R i b b o n F i s h i n g on the
Yakima River
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By David Paul Williams
photo by joe rotter / red’s fly shop
ong famous for its end-of-summer rodeo, Ellensburg also lassoes in people who love to fish on the nearby Yakima River. Deep in the heart of Washington’s Yakima Canyon territory, it’s the kind of place where cowboy boots and waders don’t clash. The Yakima River, a tributary of the Columbia River, is home to Washington’s only Blue Ribbon fishery, estimated to contain more than 1,000 wild—not stocked—fish per river mile. While not an official state designation, Blue Ribbon connotes high-quality fishing. The river is open all year under barbless hook, catch-and-release regulations, but summer is when it’s at its fishiest. During July and August, the days are warm, with temperatures on the river reaching into the upper sixties, often reaching triple digits in the canyon. The summer runs bring wild rainbow and cutthroat trout—some in excess of 20 inches—along with some whitefish, steelhead, and salmon.
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Umtanum bighorn sheep
photos by joe rotter / red’s fly shop
Gear from Red’s Fly Shop
Yakima Canyon
The fish in these parts are all wild. Stocking ceased in the 1990s, when the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife restricted the section between the dams at Roza and Lake Easton to a no-kill, no-bait fishery. Banning bait, debarbing hooks, and ending catch-as-catch-can fishing was done mainly to strengthen the populations of environmentally threatened salmon and steelhead smolts. As a result, today the waters are a sport-fishing lover’s paradise. The Lluma Creek historical marker tells about the awesome geologic forces that created the fertile river that runs through Yakima Canyon. Seventeen million years ago the first lava of the Columbia River Basalt Group began to ooze over 200,000 square miles of Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. The Yakima River flowed over the basalt, while tectonic forces folded the rock like a pleated skirt, forming ridges and valleys. The brute power of water resolutely sliced its way through the lava forming the canyon. The canyon became the natural travel corridor between latter day Ellensburg and Yakima. In 1853, George B. McClellan, who later became commander of the Union Army during the Civil War, charted a railroad course through the Yakima Canyon. When faced with troutbearing water, he stopped to fly fish along the way. He wrote, in a September 4, 1853, excerpt from his diary: “After getting into camp, fished up the stream 3/4m unsuccessfully with salmon fly and the brown & black hackles—not a rise.” McClellan was not far off the mark with his fly pattern selection. Yakima River trout, like trout everywhere, can be picky, but they do seem to favor the Pat’s Stone when drifted with the current, a few inches off the bottom. Pat’s Stone is a simple fly—not much more than dark chenille and rubber legs—but simple often is best when fly fishing. Keeping it simple is what allows a novice to spend a day on the river catching fish with a guide that likes to teach. It’s important that the fly bounces and bobs along at the right speed. If it moves too fast or too slow, a trout will reject it. Any good guide can teach the skill. On hot summer days, the river becomes a playground of inner tube rafts tied together and populated by kids of all ages. On cooler days, the fly fishers have the river to themselves…
Well, almost. The ridges towering over the river and the lush green vegetation along the banks are home to the Umtanum herd of bighorn sheep. The big rams keep to themselves, but the ewes, lambs, and young adults are social animals, offering a unique viewing experience while fishing. There’s joy in the rhythm of the rod, the line tracking the rod motion in a smooth parabolic arc, the dainty drop of the fly to the water’s surface. The anticipation that each cast may bring a big fish to the surface. It’s important to remember, however, that regulations designate the upper 85 miles of river, including the canyon section, as catch-and-release fishing—meaning all fish must be released and no bait is allowed. So, at the end of a long fishing day, when you want something to bite on yourself, head into Ellensburg and explore some of our recommended places to eat, or try making one of the trout recipes on the next pages. where to stay & eat in ellensburg and trout recipes next page
There’s joy in the rhythm of the rod, the parabolic arc, the dainty drop of the fly to the water’s surface. The anticipation that each cast may bring a big fish to the surface. www.nwpalate.com
photo by david paul williams
line tracking the rod motion in a smooth
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All About Trout Good Fish, the new book by Seattle chef Becky Selengut, makes the case for good farmed fish. What makes farmed trout a good choice? Rainbow trout are native to the Pacific Northwest. Historically, native wild trout and oceangoing wild steelhead teemed in our rivers. These days, hatchery-stocked trout outcompete wild stock and have contributed to wild steelhead being listed as an endangered species. It’s good, therefore, to be aware of sustainable substitutes for native wild species, such as farmed rainbow trout.
Cast-Iron Rainbow Trout Serves 4
• ½ ounce dried wild mushrooms, or 3 ounces (1 cup) fresh wild mushrooms • Two (1-pound) whole rainbow trout, filleted • Salt and freshly ground pepper • All-purpose flour, for dusting the fillets • 3 strips bacon, cut into small dice (about ½ cup) • Vegetable oil, for frying • ¼ cup small, whole fresh sage leaves • ½ cup dry white wine
Preheat the oven to 200˚ F. If using dried wild mushrooms, rehydrate them in 1 cup of very hot tap water. Place a small bowl on top of the mushrooms to keep them submerged. Let them sit for 30 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. If using fresh mushrooms, remove any grit by gently brushing or washing them, then cut into bite-size pieces. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper. Dust them with the flour on both sides, shaking off any excess. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until its fat is rendered and it is crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside, reserving the fat. Turn the heat up to high. When the pan is very hot, fry the trout fillets, skin side up, for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes, or just until the fillets brown. Transfer each fillet to an ovenproof platter and keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining fish (add the vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the pan is dry). When you’ve removed the last piece of fish, add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the sage leaves and cook for another minute. Add the bacon back to the pan, then add the wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to release any stuck-on bits, and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then pour the mushroom mixture over the fillets. Serve immediately.
Text and photographs excerpted with permission from Good Fish, Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the Pacific Coast by Becky Selengut (Sasquatch Books, April 2011). Photography by Clare Barboza.
Explore Ellensburg Ellensburg sits astride I-90, the major east-west route between Seattle, 90 minutes to the west, and Spokane to the east. Highway 97 funnels in from the north and I-82 brings travelers from the south.
Seattle 110 miles
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WHERE TO EAT Valley Café 509-925-3050, www.valleycafeellensburg.com Meet local winemakers the first Friday of each month. The Tav 509-925-3939 Serving juicy burgers and cold brews for decades. Palace Café 509-925-2327, www.thepalacecafe.net Big plates of prime rib and a lineage dating from 1892. Yellow Church Café 509-933-2233, www.yellowchurchcafe.com Great clam chowder and selection of Washington wines.
The Rodeo City Bar-B-Q 509-962-2727, www.rodeocitybarbq.com Worth a stop just to pick up a bottle of their special sauce.
WHERE TO DRINK Ellensburg WineWorks & GuestHouse Ellensburg 509-962-8463, www.ellensburgwineworks.com Located in an historic 1889 building on Main Street, this well-stocked bottle shop offers a smart selection of Northwest and other wines, with a tasting room downstairs and two suites upstairs.
Gifts of the Vine 509-925-1020, www.giftsofthevine.net More than 400 wines on offer, microbrews, weekend tastings, and gourmet foods.
WHERE TO STAY There are four Bureau of Land Management campgrounds along the river. For more information visit www.blm.gov/or/ resources/recreation/site_info. php?siteid=251. The rest of us will repair to local motels and B&Bs in town or a luxury lodge on the river.
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How does Jason Wilson, the 2010 James Beard Award-winning Best Chef: Northwest, decompress from the rigors of restaurant and celebrity chef life? By taking a day off when he can—and getting as far away as he can—from the kitchen at his swank Seattle eatery, Crush. A favorite escape of his is the Yakima River, just a 90-minute drive from Seattle. “The passion is really to get out there and fish as much water as I can,” he says. “I try to hit the holes and boat as many fish—just have a great day out.” Last summer, Wilson went fishing and camping on another tributary of the Columbia, the Lewis River, where it’s okay to keep your catch. “If I’m going to kill a fish, I want to do it some level of justice,” he says. When he got back to the campsite, he looked around and saw the fir and spruce trees. “I pulled out some rocks away from the main fire and took some fir from the trees around, and laid the fish in a bed of fir, and just slowly, slowly cooked it,” Wilson recalls. “The fish turned out just buttery-delicious and reflects where it was caught.” For the sauce:
• 3 tablespoons crème fraîche • 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard
For the trout:
• 4 trout fillets, each about 4-5 ounces • Sea salt to taste • 2 strips of cheesecloth, about a foot long • 1 bunch of fresh Douglas fir branches, rinsed For the morels:
• 1 tablespoon butter • 1 shallot, finely minced • ¼ cup white wine (See our recommended pairing below)
• ½ cup fresh morel mushrooms • ½ cup asparagus tips • ¼ cup freshly shelled peas
Recommended Wine Pairing
Pre-heat oven to 170˚F. Place half of the fir branches in the bottom of a roasting pan. Season the trout fillets with sea salt. Place them side-by-side, skin-side down, on one strip of the cheesecloth, and place on top of the fir branches. Cover the fillets with the other strip of cheesecloth, then remaining fir branches. Cover with foil and put in oven for 22 minutes. While the fish is cooking, prepare the sautéd morels and sauce. In a sauté pan over medium heat, add the butter. Once butter is melted, add the shallots and cook until browned, then add the wine and simmer 2 minutes. Add the morels and cook for 2 minutes. Add asparagus tips and sauté 2 minutes. Add the peas and sauté for 1 minute. Taste and adjust seasonings. Spoon morels, asparagus, and peas into a heated bowl and cover to keep warm. To make the sauce, add the crème fraîche and mustard to the pan used to cook the vegetables. Stir and heat until warmed through. To plate, place a fillet of fish on each plate with some vegetables and sauce. Serve.
River Aerie WA 2009 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley Lemon yellow color. Pretty scents of honeysuckle, spiced Asian pear, and peach are high-toned and pleasingly complex. Juicy and plump flavors of peach and melon are warm and satisfying, with notes of stony minerality and soft lavender. The wine has sufficient acidity to give the fruit some brightness, and the finish has good length. A well-made and plain-speaking Chardonnay. Serve well chilled with grilled trout. $12
Best Western Plus Lincoln Inn & Suites 509-925-4244, www.bestwesternwashington.com Easy access to the Yakima Canyon and comfortable beds. Canyon River Ranch Lodge 509-933-2100, www.canyonriver.net Two-bedroom units feature floor-toceiling windows, a deck overlooking the river, and full kitchens. Red’s Fly Shop is mere steps across the parking lot if you need to hire a fishing guide or rent a drift boat for the day.
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I-90 Inn Motel 509-925-9844, www.i-90inn.com Great for those traveling with pets. The Inn at Goose Creek 800-533-0822, www.innatgoosecreek.com Country B&B offering themed rooms like the Rose Room (it’s pink), Home Spun, and Rodeo. Gracious hosts and morning cinnamon rolls are part of the package.
FLY SHOPS The Evening Hatch 509-962-5959, www.theeveninghatch.com A funky little shop featuring a number of veteran guides.
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Red’s Fly Shop 509-933-2300, www.redsflyshop.com A full complement of fly fishing gear and guides. Troutwater 509-962-3474, www.tightlinesangling.com The newest shop in town, with guides and a sister shop located upriver in Cle Elum. Worley Bugger Fly Co. 509-962-2033, www.worleybuggerflyco.com A well-stocked shop and professional guide service.
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Chef Jason Wilson
Courtesy of Jason Wilson, Crush, Seattle, WA
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Other great places to fish in the Pacific NW Fraser Valley, BC From late July and Fraser River the arrival of king and sockeye salmon, to midLodge November, the Fraser River is another pristine summertime fly fishing getaway in the Pacific Northwest. A little more than an hour east of Vancouver, stay and fish along its banks—also famed for its sturgeon fishing—at the Fraser River Lodge (www.fraserriverlodge.com, 604-796-1210), a well-chiseled grand fishing lodge with top-notch cuisine and breathtaking views of majestic Mount Cheam.
Deschutes River, OR There is a fishing writer who wrote that Metolius watches—time-keeping River Resort devices—have no place in fishing. The same could be said of cell phones, which won’t work anyways at the Metolius River Resort (www. metoliusriverresort. com, 541-595-6281). Located out of reception in Central Oregon on the meandering Metolius River, a tributary of the Deschutes, the resort’s cabins offer family-friendly comfort and Kokanee Café, the on-site restaurant. For other area lodging options, visit www.metoliusriver.com. The Met has a reputation for being rather tricky water, and formal guiding isn’t allowed. One option is to stay in Sisters, about 20 minutes off the river, at the luxe Five Pine Lodge (www.fivepinelodge.com, 866-974-5900). In partnership with local guide service Fly Fishers Place (www.flyfishersplace.com, 541-549-3474), the lodge offers fishing packages such as a river float down the Lower Deschutes or an upriver “Walk and Wade Trip.”
ELLENSBURG SUMMER SPECIAL EVENTS July 16 Wine & Food Pairing Competition More than 500 attendees are expected to gather on the grounds of Canyon River Ranch for an educational and entertaining day of wine and food tasting. Yakima Valley AVA wineries will pair up with local chefs. Guests get to be the judges as they vote for their favorite pairing. Also enjoy live music, educational wine seminars, local arts and crafts, plus clinics on bird watching, fly tying, and casting. Admission is $25. www.canyonriver.net July 29–31 Jazz in the Valley Three days and nights of music—jazz, blues, and salsa— ring out throughout downtown Ellensburg on the main stage and at intimate performance venues. www.jazzinthevalley.com September 2–5 Ellensburg Rodeo The best riders, ropers, and steer wrestlers compete in what many consider to be the best rodeo arena in the nation. www.ellensburgrodeo.com
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Radishes My first radish revelation came to me as a child at the tender age of five. My four siblings and I each got to pick our favorite vegetable to grow in a small area in our backyard—with the help of our mom, of course. For me the choice was easy, as I loved eating raw radishes with a touch of salt. But I was so disappointed when the time came to pull them from the ground, as each pull produced only one solitary radish. Looking somewhat puzzled, I turned to my mom and asked, “Why aren’t they all bundled together like they are at the store?” During my years as a market grower, I came upon a second revelation. Within the pages of a favorite seed catalog I discovered a whole world of radishes in different shapes and hues. By far the most popular radish eaten and grown in America is the common red variety. And it certainly has appeal. Unfortunately, too many people think of radishes as simply a sliced ingredient for a salad. Radishes are a tasty vegetable the rest of the world has long embraced— from German radishes served with beer, to long French types served with morning eggs, and Asian varieties that are steamed, stir-fried, or cooked in a number of ways. There are more than 45 varieties of radishes, spanning a wide range of shapes, sizes, colors, and culinary characteristics. Although the exact place of origin remains obscure, radishes are believed to have originated in China, where they have been cultivated for thousands of years. Today it’s not uncommon to come across radishes with dramatically colored flesh in flamboyant fuchsia, red, green, pink, purple, or crimson striping. Each variety is distinctive in taste and texture, from succulent and dense, to crisp-tender, and ranging from slightly sweet, to mild and even spicy hot, in shapes from perfectly round to tapered. The typically white radish known as daikon, a Japanese word meaning “large root,” comes in a variety of shapes and sizes—from short and stubby, to up to 18 inches long and three or more inches in girth. The skin on some varieties can be creamy white, yellow, or black. Black-skinned radishes have a coarse skin and crisp white flesh. Favored in Eastern European cuisine, they can be orb-shaped, cylindrical, or elongated. The flavor is more assertive and earthy, and at times can be quite spicy. The intense flavor requires bolder food pairings to tame the pungency. Radishes grow year-round in the Pacific Northwest. The familiar round red radish is a market staple, and daikon has become widely available. Less common varieties can be found seasonally at farmers markets, natural food stores, and specialty produce markets. Look for radishes that feel firm, are without cracks, and seem heavy for the size. If the tops are intact, removing them before storing will help maintain the root’s crisp texture. Fresh radish greens are a great addition to a salad, soup, sandwich, or stir-fry. Trimmed roots stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator will maintain a crisp quality for up to two weeks. The heat intensity of a radish can vary from mild to peppery, to hot. Its pungent taste can be reminiscent of horseradish. You can take some of the edge off by rinsing them in cold salt water, sprinkling them with salt, or by briefly sautéing them to lessen the heat. www.nwpalate.com
Be bold and grab a bunch of French breakfast radishes (shown here) or another special variety. Turn to page 32 for 5 more to try.
Radishes make tasty additions when used as garnishes or added to salads, simmered in soups and stews, finely grated over foods, tossed into sautés and stir-fries, and pickled as a condiment. But when I get a craving for a bit of nostalgia, I head straight for the saltshaker with a bunch of ravishing red radishes. Every spicy bite is still a revelation. Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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radish champions By Peter Szymczak • photography by john valls
Pacific Northwest chef Vitaly Paley, of Paley’s Place in Portland, Oregon, went toqueto-toque against “Iron Chef” Jose Garces during a recent episode of the television show Iron Chef America. The secret ingredient—radishes. The outcome wasn’t even close.
Juggling chefs Ben Bettinger (blue shirt) and veteran Paley’s Place chef and current chef de cuisine Patrick McKee (chef’s coat) assisted Vitaly Paley (radish t-shirt) in a recent episode of Iron Chef America. Their experience working together showed in the score, as Team Paley racked up 51 total points, winning Battle Radish handily.
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adishes have long been a staple in Paley’s pantry. “I grew up in the former Soviet Union, where for me, eating radishes signaled the start of summer,” he said. Chef Paley wowed the judges from the get-go, kicking off his fivecourse tasting menu with an international quartet of radish appetizers: daikon kimchee with seared albacore tuna belly, curried radish fritters with radish raita, a radish sorbet that one judge called a “stroke of genius,” and an Easter egg radish, butter, and smoked salmon sandwich on pumpernickel bread that “brings together all the flavors of my childhood,” he said. “I wasn’t going to put girly flowers and butter with radishes on the plate to make them look pretty,” said Paley. “I really wanted to blow their palates right away up front.” Chef Paley proceeded to give a clinic on nose-to-tail vegetable cookery, with dishes that used the greens as well as the root: poached halibut with radish pesto, horseradish-and-greens-stuffed pork tenderloin, and a knock-out dessert course—watermelon radish tarte Tatin. Assisting Paley in Kitchen Stadium were sous chefs Patrick McKee (chef de cuisine at Paley’s Place) and Ben Bettinger, a six-year veteran of
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Paley’s kitchen and currently chef at Beaker & Flask in Portland. During the months leading up to the competition, Team Paley practiced their timing (all dishes must be created in one hour) and perfecting recipes. “When the secret ingredient was unveiled, we knew we were going to win,” said Bettinger, who commemorated the team’s victory with a radish tattoo on his brawny forearm. Chef McKee also added a radish to his already well-inked upper body: his tat, of a French breakfast radish, was the star of the dish he oversaw—gnocchi with radish greens and glazed radishes (see recipe on page 33). There’ll be no tattoo for Paley. (“I like staying married,” he says with a chuckle, alluding to his wife Kimberly, who oversees the wine list and front of house at the couple’s eponymous restaurant in the Knob Hill neighborhood of North Portland. The restaurant is in its sixteenth year; the couple their twenty-second.) For him, the win simply marked another notch in his already decorated belt. He previously brought home the title of Best Chef: Northwest from the 2005 James Beard Foundation Awards. It seems everything, even radishes, comes up roses for Paley.
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Curried Radish Fritters Courtesy of Vitaly Paley, Paley’s Place, Portland, OR Serves 4 to 6
Black and watermelon radishes are perfect for this recipe as they are both low in moisture and maintain their texture in frying. Curry gives the dish an exotic spice kick and the goat cheese moderates the flavor. Chef Paley recommends preparing these fritters in a larger pan so that there is room for them to fry without crowding and lowering the temperature of the oil. Fry them in batches of 5 or 6 at a time, and serve them hot from the oil. • ½ pound black radishes • ½ pound watermelon radishes • 1 tablespoon sea salt • ½ tablespoon curry powder • ¼ cup fresh goat cheese • ½ onion, peeled and finely diced • 1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves picked, cleaned and finely chopped • 3 large cloves garlic, chopped • 2 eggs, lightly beaten • ¼ cup chickpea or all-purpose flour • Freshly ground black pepper to taste • Canola oil for frying • Radish and Cucumber Raita (recipe follows)
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1. Trim and peel the radishes. 2. Using a box grater, coarsely grate the radishes into a large bowl. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of salt and mix with hands, squeezing at the same time. When the radishes begin to leach out liquid, pick up a handful with your hands and above the kitchen sink, squeeze to remove as much water as you can. Place it into another bowl. Repeat the process until all the radishes are wrung dry. Add the curry powder, goat cheese, onion, Radish and parsley, garlic, and eggs. Cucumber Raita 3. Mix until well incorporated. Sprinkle with the flour • 1 bunch French breakfast radishes, cleaned and and season with a few grindfinely diced, with radish ings of pepper. Mix until all the greens, finely chopped flour has been absorbed. • 1 small English cucumber, Fill a large straight-sided peeled, seeded, and finely soup pot with about 3 inches diced of oil. Over high heat bring it to 350° F. Lower the heat to • ¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint maintain the oil at that temperature. If the oil cools below • 1 bunch green onions, washed, roots trimmed, 320° F, heat it back up to origiand thinly sliced nal temperature before con• 2 cups plain whole milk tinuing. yogurt Scoop a heaping tablespoon of the batter and care- • Juice of 1 lemon fully drop each one into hot • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper oil. Fry until golden brown all over, rotating them once or In a medium-sized bowl mix twice to ensure even cooking, about 5 minutes. Remove the radishes, radish greens, them from the fat, drain them cucumber, mint, and green on paper towels, and sprinkle onions with yogurt and lemon with salt. Continue frying until juice. Season with salt and all the batter has been used. pepper to taste, wrap tightly, Serve with a bowl of Radish and chill until ready to serve. and Cucumber Raita as soon Can be made up to two hours in advance. as they come out of the oil. Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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Wide World of Radishes
Beyond run-of-the-mill red radishes, look for these five exceptional types Rose Heart
Shaped like a turnip, this Chinese radish is light green, with white flesh under the skin, and a vibrantly colored crisp interior of fuchsia-red. The bite is slight and spicy at the outer skin, but sweeter at the center.
Watermelon
Large round roots of creamy white with a rose interior radiating fuchsia veins. Stunning in appearance and flavor, this radish boasts crisp flesh with a touch of sweetness.
Shunkyo Semi-Long
Deep pink skin, shaped like a carrot, with white flesh that is crisp and nutty, imparting a tantalizing combination of both hot and sweet sensations.
Summer Cross
The daikon of choice for many market growers, for its mid- and late-summer harvests.
Round Black
Under a skin the color of coal lies white, mildly pungent flesh that takes to a variety of preparations. Cook them slowly in butter and mash when forktender. They’re also great raw—thinly sliced and soaked in water until super crisp—with charcuterie and a beer.
For the exclusive recipe of Vitaly Paley’s winning Radish Sorbet go to www.nwpalate.com.
—Kris Wetherbee
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Radish Greens and Ricotta Gnocchi with Glazed Breakfast Radishes and Oregon Dungeness Crab Courtesy of Vitaly Paley, Paley’s Place, Portland, OR Serves 4
Ricotta gnocchi are less involved than making their potato counterpart. Make sure to drain the ricotta of excess whey, Paley advises, or the batter will be too loose. • 1 bunch breakfast radishes with tops, washed and dried • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar • 2 teaspoons sea salt • 9 ounces ricotta cheese, drained well • 7 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted • 1 large egg • ¹/³ cup grated Parmesan cheese • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 1 cup Dungeness crab meat, drained and picked clean • Juice of half a lemon • 1 tablespoon preserved lemon peel • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Cut the radish greens and stems of the radishes and reserve for making gnocchi. 1. Place the radishes into a small straight-sided sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons of butter, sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt, and add water until the level reaches halfway up the radishes. Cover and boil over high heat until almost all of the water has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Take the cover off and gently move the pan over the flame, rolling and glazing the radishes until they begin to color and glisten, about 2 minutes more. Keep warm. Fill a large pot with water. Bring the water to a boil then add salt to taste. Lower the heat to a simmer. Place the ricotta, flour, egg, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and half of the Parmesan cheese into the bowl of a food processor. Roughly chop the radish greens and add them in as well, then process until smooth. 2. Transfer one-third of the batter into a pastry bag outfitted with a large straight tip or into a re-sealable plastic bag and cut a ½-inch wide corner. Over simmering water, squeeze the batter through the opening and cut the gnocchi into 1-inch lengths with a small knife or bamboo skewer. Poach the gnocchi until firm, about 3 minutes. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large platter drizzled with olive oil. Repeat with remaining batter. Melt the rest of the butter on medium heat in a large sauté pan, and then add 4 tablespoons of gnocchi cooking water. Gently transfer the poached gnocchi into the pan. Stir in the crab and the lemon juice. Re-warm, stirring carefully, for about 3 minutes. 3. Spoon the gnocchi into pasta bowls, garnish with glazed radishes, and grated Parmesan cheese. Garnish with a sprinkle of chopped parsley and preserved lemon.
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Kimberly Paley’s wine suggestion The blend of ricotta, Dungeness crab, and butter-glazed radishes pairs nicely with a fruit-driven Pinot Gris with tropical overtones. Soléna’s Pinot Gris and another by Sineann are two good picks made in Oregon. The subtle flavor of preserved lemon in the dish finds its compliment by the hint of citrus present in both wines.
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Do you know how to say
Vee-own-yay ? By Jennifer Cossey
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Legend has it Viognier derives its name from the Latin saying, “Via Gehennae,” which loosely translates to “road to Hell.” If Pinot Noir is the heartbreak grape, then Viognier is the first kiss—hard to forget, and an impossible experience to duplicate after the first taste. Viognier is a challenging grape to grow, in part because it must be allowed to get very ripe before it opens up into the fullest allure of its aromas and flavors. This, plus a propensity for slow ripening, low and unpredictable yields, susceptibility to mildew, and attractiveness to vineyard predators such as birds and deer, can make it a vineyard trial by fire, proverbially speaking. This may account for why as late as 1968 there were only about 30 acres of it left in the world. And yet since then, Viognier has been resurgent, making a home in the hearts of masochistic winemakers the world over. With its variety of microclimates, the Pacific Northwest is well suited for making different styles of wine from the grape. And when made well, Northwest Viogniers can be great. One of the most aromatically distinctive white wine grapes, Viognier’s perfumed scents range from flint and stone, to tropical fruits, honeysuckle, and other succulent floral aromas, depending on where the grapes were grown and how the wine was made. It is a dark yellow-skinned grape that produces wines of rich golden hues that are naturally low in acid and often of higher alcohol than other
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whites. Depending on how it is fermented and treated, Viognier varies in color from a lightly tinted, Riesling-like brightness, to the rich and golden hues often found in Chardonnay or Gewürztraminer. Viognier differs in style, from slightly sweet to dry. Classically, Viognier is fermented and aged in either 100% stainless steel tanks or a blend of older—so-called, neutral—oak barrels and steel in order to preserve the essence of the fruit. Since Viognier is naturally low in acids, it is rarely put through a full secondary fermentation—called malolactic fermentation, or “ML” for short, it’s the process that drives malic acid out of the wine, creating a softer mouthfeel (think buttery Chardonnay). Winemakers who employ ML can risk creating Viognier that is flabby and finishes short. However, this matter has become a controversial subject among lovers and producers of the wine. Many winemakers are starting to let their Viognier go through partial or complete ML to achieve a greater fullness and richer texture in their final product. They are proving that, if done
right, it can have a dramatic and beautiful outcome.
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iognier comes from the northern part of the Rhône Valley in southern France. This region is also home to Syrah. Both grapes thrive here, thanks to a continental climate that provides the warmth they need for ripening. Like the Rhône, Washington’s Columbia Valley, Idaho’s Snake River Valley, and the southern portion of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley appellations also have continental climates. But even in the cooler climates of the Pacific Northwest, intrepid winemakers are finding success with Viognier.
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World examples, are Amalie Robert’s Viognier and Et Fille’s “Deux Vert Vineyard” Viognier from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. “We started making Viognier in 2000 from Southern Oregon fruit,” recalls Jessica Mozeico-Blair of Et Fille. “We loved the aromatics of it, but wanted to find a cooler climate site that would help us produce a more acid-balanced and elegant, food-friendly wine.”
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Washington winemaker Doug McCrea, of McCrea Cellars, produced the Northwest’s first Viognier bottling in 1997. McCrea has made Viognier longer than anyone in the Northwest, and he sees a great future for the variety in the region. He feels strongly that eastern Washington is perfectly suited for Viognier production. The air is dry, the days are warm, and the nights are cool, giving Viognier the heat it needs to ripen and the coolness to keep some acidity. “Today there are probably at least 50 to 60 bottlings from a host of Washington wineries, and when I mention Viognier, most everyone now knows of the wine. It’s gradually established a market, so I would expect its future is pretty good,” said McCrea.
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ike all things worth pursuing, Viognier does not come easy, even in Washington. “The ripening window is very narrow, maybe a two-day window, and comes about the same time everyone’s attention is on Merlot,” says Gordon Rawson of Chatter Creek Winery. “In my almost 30 years of winemaking, it is one of the most challenging wines to get right.” John Abbott, winemaker and owner of Abeja in Walla Walla, notes, “The key for us is to try to achieve flavor at lower sugar maturity to keep our alcohols lower.” That so many producers are trying their hands at Viognier shows that it can perform well in the state. Like Eastern Washington, Southern Oregon also has a warm climate and a long growing season. Herb Quady, winemaker for Troon Vineyard and Quady North, makes three Viongiers from local fruit: “[Viognier] is successful in Southern Oregon because the temperature cools down significantly just as the vines are ramping up their rate of sugar production. This cooling factor puts the brakes on sugar production and gives the flavor development a chance to keep pace.”
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One of the most aromatically distinctive white wine grapes, Viognier’s perfumed scents range from flint and stone, to tropical fruits, honeysuckle, and other succulent floral aromas. Other producers in Southern Oregon, such as Cowhorn, Abacela, and Spangler Vineyards, are making wines from the Applegate, Umpqua, and Rogue River valleys as well. “The beauty of this region is its microclimate diversity,” notes Bill Steele, winemaker and owner of Cowhorn, the Applegate Valley producer of biodynamic Rhône-style wines. “We have lots of valleys, each of which are different, often quite so.” The fruit is so appreciated that even noted Willamette Valley producers like Tyrus Evan (a sublabel of Ken Wright Cellars), Elk Cove Vineyards, and Penner-Ash—to name just a few—are bringing some back to the Willamette Valley to make wine with. But even in Oregon’s cool-climate north, the allure of Viognier is motivating some to grow the grape there. Amalie Robert Estate, Et Fille Wines, and Cristom Vineyards are three wineries making Viognier from a handful of cool-climate vineyards. The climate here makes for brighter acidity and wine with a lighter mouthfeel. The grapes don’t get as ripe, so the sugars stay low and, hence, so does the alcohol. Cristom’s Viognier, made from their estate vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, is put through full malolactic fermentation and has a rich and creamy texture. Lighter in body, similar to Old
ritish Columbia, also blessed with an arid climate blanketed by warm days and cool nights, is no stranger to great Viognier production with wineries such as Sandhill and La Frenz creating a strong name for the grape in the Okanagan Valley. Howard Soon, winemaker of Sandhill Winery, is known in part for his expressive Viogniers as well as his true respect and dedicated pursuit of excellence with the grape. “We have had great success with Okanagangrown Viognier,” he notes. “Fundamentally, I think Rhône varieties seem to like our South Okanagan desert climate. It is a delicious wine, so that is my reward in making it. It is a great translation of our intense Okanagan sunshine into a lovely floral, aromatic, fruit-driven white wine.” At the 2009–2010 Canadian Wine Awards, Soon’s Viognier was chosen White Wine of the Year. Not only was this a great accomplishment for Soon, but also a win for Viognier, as it was the first time a Viognier had won the prestigious title. With the long, warm days and cool nights of their high desert climate, producers in Idaho’s Snake River Valley are starting to show that they too can play this game. Cinder Wines, Fraser Vineyard, and Williamson Vineyards are some of the leaders in this new region. Joe Schnerr, who co-owns Cinder with his wife, winemaker Melanie Krause, says that the Snake River Valley seems perfectly suited for Viognier because of the temperatures, which help build acids in the wine as well as develop the fleshy, seductive characters of the grape, while still keeping the alcohol at bay. “It’s a variety that we decided to build our label on,” he says—and build they have. Cinder has grown to a 3,000-case production winery, making three different Viogniers that total more than 700 cases, including a dry, an off-dry, and a reserve. Somewhere between the first kiss and the most recent touch of the wine to his lips, Schnerr and other winemakers like him throughout the Pacific Northwest have fallen for this challenging grape. Now it’s up to wine drinkers to ask for it by name—Vee-own-yay.
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With its variety of microclimates, the Pacific Northwest is well suited for making different styles of wine from the Viognier grape.
Cristom Vineyards OR 2009 Viognier, Estate Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills Notes of peach, pineapple, apricot, and preserved lemon, with lily and white rose, and a light dusting of minerality, herb, and white pepper. $26
Et Fille Wines OR 2009 Viognier, “Deux Vert Vineyard,” Yamhill-Carlton Instantly delivers notes of lime, lemon, and grapefruit, opening up into tropical pineapple and passion fruit. Hibiscus nectar, white clover, honey, and fresh garden herbs round out the back end. $24
Dusted Valley WA 2009 Viognier, Yakima Valley Tropical fruit tones of guava, lychee, passion fruit, banana, and pineapple, highlighted by notes of honeysuckle, lily, and white pepper. The palate has lovely acids and a lasting finish with a lingering viscosity and pleasantly round mouthfeel. $26
Quady Winery OR 2009 North Viognier, Ox Block Reserve, Applegate Valley Subtle tropical notes of banana and pineapple dance about with aromas of acacia flower and honey. The palate is rich and fruit driven, with touches of citrus and a lingering finish highlighted by a touch of vanilla wafer. $25
Troon Vineyard OR 2010 Viognier, Steelhead Run Vineyard, Applegate Valley Light in
Cowhorn OR
2010 Viognier, Estate Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley Intense with citrus
2009 Viognier, Applegate Valley
Sandhill Winery BC 2008 Viognier, Okanagan Valley “I could hardly keep myself in my seat when tasting this brilliant, pristine, and absolutely classic Viognier. There was so much perfume with nectarine, star fruit, kiwi, and pepper. It was massive on the palate, fleshy, waxy, yet braced by great acidity and alcohol warmth, with phenomenal length.”—2009 Canadian Wine Awards $25
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–Tanzer & Parker
PREMIUM PINOT NOIR FROM THE VAN DUZER CORRIDOR OPEN DAILY 11-5 WWW.VANDUZER.COM 800.884.1927 DALLAS, OREGON 97338
color, to the point of being almost clear, it is dripping in tropical fruit aromas and fleshy with notes of passion fruit and pineapple, luscious floral and honeysuckle nectar, and a touch of white pepper and spice in the back palate. $19
Abeja WA
and shortbread notes. Lemon tart, kiwi, and baked apple hit the palate up front, while yellow rose and banana pudding round out the back end. Pleasant acidity balances out the wine gracefully. $20
90+ Point Pinot Noirs from Oregon’s “superb 2008 vintage”
Uniquely expressive with notes of shortbread and lemon custard alongside green melon, dried banana, and dehydrated pineapple. The slightly creamy texture is due to the four months of oak ageing with 16% new French oak. $30
Tyrus Evan OR
Tasting Room Open daily: 11am-5pm 1850 Country Club Rd Hood River, OR 97031 541.386.2607 phelpscreekvineyards.com
2008 Viognier, Del Rio Vineyard, Rogue Valley Complex, with heady notes of pineapple, papaya, mango, baked yellow apple, and cantaloupe. A slight flinty character brings a pleasant minerality, with weavings of chamomile tea in the long finish. $26
Penner-Ash OR 2010 Viognier, Oregon Shows upfront notes of apricot, peach, papaya, and pineapple, with highlights of acacia flower and honeysuckle. It has lively acidity and a touch of residual sugar, which lends fullness to the palate. $30
Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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Pairing Food with Viognier iognier balances fleshy seductiveness, an undercurrent of acidity, and complex minerality. In some styles, it is the perfect food wine; in others, it comes across so big and fullbodied that it is almost a meal in itself. Despite its natural lack of acid, Viognier is a wonderful food wine. But if Viognier is so naturally low in acids, what makes it such a great food wine? Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein, author of Perfect Pairings, has this to say about Viognier: “The flavor profile and texture are what make Viognier sing at the table. Not all matches are grounded in acidity. Though it makes pairing dishes with sharpness very difficult, preparations that stress brighter and fruitier elements (chutneys to mango salsas, Floribbean to South East Asian cuisines) rock, as do creamy textured sauces.” Goldstein recommends pairing young versions of the wine with food that “suggests sweetness but are not really sweet,” such as Indian or Moroccan cuisines, braised chicken or stuffed trout, and ingredients that pick up fruit and spice flavors.
The Perfect Match
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
The Amazing Compliment
Root veggies, pastas, grains, oily nuts, and richer fish or white meats are also good matches. It’s also an amazing compliment to shellfish such as scallops, crab, and lobster. Try not to pair it with lighter foods. The wine is so expressive that the dish will be lost. Avoid very tart or sharp flavors, like vinaigrettes or other acid-based dressings, as well as high heat dishes—since Viognier is often high in alcohol, it will make the food seem even hotter. Some of Goldstein’s favorite pairings for the wine? “I love Viognier with cheese plates/assortments. It’s a slam dunk across a large range of cheeses post your meal, and with fried chicken— really!” Drink it young. Viognier is a wine to be consumed in its youth, mostly because of the aforementioned low acidity. “The charm of Viognier is in its young and flamboyant fruit, which will dissipate with age,” says Goldstein. A very few of the wines have some ageing potential, but why risk it when they are better fresh in the bottle? This is instant gratification wine.
The Slam Dunk
The Pleasant Surprise
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Umpqua Valley Wineries UMPQUAVALLEYWINERIES.ORG
ABACELA WINERY 541-679-6642 Open 11 – 5 BECKER VINEYARD 541-677-0288 Open 11 – 5, Sat – Sun BRADLEY VINEYARDS 541-584-2888 Open 11 – 5, Wed – Sun, Jun–Nov BRANDBORG VINEYARD & WINERY 541-584-2870 Open 11 – 5 CHATEAU NONCHALANT 541-679-2394 Open By Appointment DELFINO 541-673-7575 Open 11 – 5, Fri–Sun GIRARDET WINE CELLARS 541-679-7252 Open 11 – 5 GLASER ESTATE WINERY 541-580-4867 Open 11 – 5, Fri–Sun H.V. CELLARS 541-679-7252 Open Summer 2010 HENRY ESTATE WINERY 541-459-5120 • 800-782-2686 Open 11 – 5 HILLCREST VINEYARD 541-673-3709 Open 11 – 5 MARSHANNE LANDING 541-459-7998 Open 11 – 5, Wed – Sun MELROSE VINEYARDS 541-672-6080 Open 11 – 5 MISTY OAKS VINEYARD 541-459-3558 Open 11 – 5, Fri – Sun PYRENEES VINEYARD & CELLARS 541-863-7797 Open 11 – 5 REUSTLE PRAYER ROCK VINEYARDS 541-459-6060 Open 10 – 5, Mon – Sat RIVER’S EDGE WINERY 541-584-2357 Summer/Fall daily 11 – 5 SIENNA RIDGE TASTING ROOM 541-849-3300 Open 12 – 6 SPANGLER VINEYARDS 541-679-9654 Open 11 – 5, closed Mondays TESÓARIA VINEYARD & WINERY 541-464-0032 Open 11 – 5, Fri – Sun TRIPLE OAK VINEYARD 541-459-2727 Open 11:30 - close, exc. Wed.
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Roseburg, Oregon – HeartNorthwest of thePalate Umpqua Valley | JULY/aUGUST 2011 3 9 www.wine.LANDofUMPQUA.com • 1-800-440-9584
tasting notes wine views & reviews w Pinot
Gris
Pinot Gris is a mutation of Pinot Noir and thrives in the cool-climate regions of the Northwest, particularly in the Willamette Valley and to a lesser degree in the Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island appellations. It has also found a ready home in the warmer reaches as well, where high diurnal temperature swings can allow the grape to ripen well while retaining good acidity. Columbia Valley and the Okanagan Valley are two warm regions where Pinot Gris production is growing.
Dusted Valley Vintners WA
2010 Pinot Gris, Boomtown, Washington State Glittering gold color leads to fresh and delightful aromas of broiled pear and apple fruit with a sense of substance and weight. Assertive and mouthfilling flavors of sweet apple and pear are dynamic, even jaunty, because of strong acidity. Lime and talc accents are forward, and a streak of sweet citrus blossoms shines through the entire tasting experience. This is a lively and bold Pinot Gris with a subtle sweet edge that balances the bright acidity. An unconventional pairing would be a morel risotto dish. (1,800 cases made.) $13
vintage value
Elk Cove Vineyards OR 2009 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley Steely green/gold color. Full and weighty aromas of broiled peaches, sweet apple juice, melon rind, and fresh alfalfa. Clean, fresh, and beautifully balanced on the palate, this wine delivers classic Pinot Gris flavors of pear, apple, fresh grass, and a warming sense of spice. The flavors are full and rich, the texture has substance, and the finish is long and bold with echoing tastes of pear and apple. A classic New World Gris, this could be paired with cold poached salmon. (18,430 cases made.) $19
Gray Monk BC
yellow color. Full and warm aromas of pear and melon fruit are topped by a pretty honeysuckle scent. The intense center of sweet ripe peach flavor is surrounded by notes of green apple, lemon/lime juice, and spice. The wine has a sense of richness because of the powerful fruit character, but also offers good acidity for some brightness. Pair with grilled fish sausages. $16
Silvan Ridge OR 2009 Pinot Gris, Oregon Notes of dried straw, thyme, and lemon have a pleasing air of sweetness on the nose. The soft-feeling attack delivers well-focused and mildly tart lemon/lime flavors, with a touch of talc and pear skin at the back of the palate. Though the wine starts out quietly, it builds with a growing sense of acidity that gives mounting force to the flavors. The texture is viscous and mouth-filling, and the wine finishes with long tastes of pear and citrus fruits. Pair with barbecued oysters for a summer treat. (1,500 cases made.) $15
Van Duzer Vineyards OR
2009 Odyssey Pinot Gris, Block 8, Okanagan Valley VQA Fragrant orchard
2010 Pinot Gris, Estate, Willamette Valley Lustrous gold color. Forward scents
fruit and honey perk up the nose. Abundant flavors of apple, citrus, and melon pop up on the round, softly-textured palate. The finish refreshes with spicy peach, dried fruit peel, and almond notes. Delicious with lake trout with grapes and toasted hazelnuts. (590 cases made.) $24 cdn
of honeysuckle, pear, and apple fruit, and a subtle touch of crushed spearmint. Concentrated flavors of red apple, nectarine, and white peach are unusually clear and focused, with an intensity that is accentuated by vibrant acidity. Tones of minerals and lemon/lime-like tartness add complexity. Medium-weight, with a supple mouthfeel, this is a potent Gris that packs plenty of punch. The finish is long and redolent with apple notes. Pair with cold smoked chicken salad on a warm summer picnic. $16
Haywire BC 2010 Pinot Gris, Switchback Vineyard, Okanagan Valley Fragrant orchard blossoms command attention. Ripe pear flavor and lemony acidity resonate on the crisp, lively palate. Lees contact confers some body. Lingering flinty minerality tingles aside the long, apple/pear skin finish. Sublime with sashimi. (Clone 52; 855 cases made.) $23 cdn
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Mercer Estates WA 2009 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley Light bronze
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
stellar
selection
photos by erin thomas
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w Chardonnay
The popularity of Northwest Chardonnay is on the rise: sales are up, and more of the grape is being planted each year. In Washington, the largest producer of the variety in the Northwest, Chardonnay is the most planted white grape (and in a virtual tie with Cabernet Sauvignon for the most planted grape in the state) with close to 6,000 acres. Oregon lags well behind with just under 1,000 planted acres, while in British Columbia Chardonnay is the second most produced wine in the province.
Apolloni Vineyards OR 2009 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley Lightly hued lemon yellow color. Subdued aromas of white flower blossoms, apricot, talc, and minerals gather strength as the wine warms in the glass. Lean on the palate, with high-toned lemon/lime tastes combined with green melon and tangerine accents. Crisp and tart acidity gives the wine an uplifting feel, and the fruitiness tends toward the green side. Tasty, and quite different from the generally more mellow Chardonnay style, this is a Chardonnay that offers a refreshing summertime pairing with cold shrimp. (348 cases made.) $14
Mythology OR
JoieFarm BC
2009 Chardonnay, EolaAmity Hills Clean and fresh
2010 Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Nose opens with a clean briny blast backed by apple and citrus aromas. Tangy mouthfeel upfront cascades to a lusciously textured mid-palate. Mineral and lemon linger long. Buttery cashew notes add complexity, while the 22% Chardonnay Musqué contributes honey notes. Poised for spot prawn dishes. (1,008 cases made.) $23 cdn
Left Coast Cellars OR 2008 Chardonnay, Truffle Hill, Willamette Valley Green/gold color. Wafts of buttery peach and apple fruit, with overt accents of oak and mint, are full and rich on the nose. On the palate, ripe yellow peach flavors are the core of the wine, with surrounding notes of butterscotch, lemon curd, and spearmint. Well balanced, with an acidity that brings out the citrus qualities of the fruit, and while definitely oak-influenced, it is not oak-dominated. The finish is round and fruity. Pair with poached halibut. (234 cases made.) $20
Quails’ Gate BC 2009 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley VQA Baked lemon tart and toasty caramel aromas on the nose. Rich, mouth-filling texture balanced by fresh acidity. Orchard fruit flavors on the palate give way to a lingering toffee finish. Pairs well with the smokiness of a charbroiled chicken. $20 cdn
River Aerie WA 2009 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley Lemon
Chateau Ste. Michelle WA
yellow color. Pretty scents of honeysuckle, spiced Asian pear, and peach are high-toned and pleasingly complex. Juicy and plump flavors of peach and melon are warm and satisfying, with notes of stony minerality and soft lavender. The wine has sufficient acidity to give the fruit some brightness, and the finish has good length. A well-made and plain-speaking Chardonnay. Serve well chilled with grilled trout. (180 cases made.) $12
2008 Chardonnay, Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley Meyer lemon yellow color with a slight greengold shadow. Buttery peach and citrus aromas blend with toast and dried herbs to create a prototypical oak-influenced Chardonnay nose. Likewise on the palate, the velutinous mouthfeel delivers succulent peach and butterscotch flavors, accented by notes of lemon balm and toast. Big and supple, the wine has plenty of flavor, but also some heat and a general softness. The finish is long and warm, with a lemony quality. Pair with pan-seared scallops with tagliatelle in a light cream sauce. $25
Domaine Drouhin OR 2009 Chardonnay, Arthur, Drouhin Family Estate, Dundee Hills Incandescent white gold color. Scents of dried grass and fresh-cut white peach combine with a touch of talc and white flower potpourri to create a refined set of aromatics. Texturally light on the tongue, the flavors are clear, yet restrained. There are notes of lemon curd, pear, and white peach on the mid-palate that offer a sense of weight and density, yet distinct minerality and clean acidity give brio to the tasting experience. The finish is strong, and redolent of pear and minerals. This is an elegant Chardonnay that rewards contemplation when sipped solo, and will delight when paired with black cod (also known as sablefish) and wild chanterelles. $30
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wafts of tropical fruit and white linen are joined by dried flower blossoms and herbs on the full, complex, and inviting nose. In the mouth, a supple texture carries honeyed melon and sweet apple flavors with a light touch of candied orange peel. There is definite richness to the flavors and a pleasing weight on the palate, but also sufficient acidity for satisfying vigor. The finish has lingering notes of apple, toast, and coconut. Pair with a Tuscan white bean salad with sun-dried tomatoes and herbs. (100 cases made.) $20
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asting Notes provide readers with descriptive reviews of Northwest wines as an aid to finding wines they may like. All wines are reviewed blind (we do not know the producer). Well-made, pleasing-to-drink wines that display good varietal character and balance are Recommended. Wines that offer additional complexity, character, and persistence of flavors are Highly Recommended. The Exceptional rating is given to memorable wines that display varietal or stylistic purity, have seamless balance, and display profound character.
Recommended
Highly Recommended
Exceptional
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w Riesling
One of the reasons Riesling has not been as popular a market success as it deserves is that too many people think of Riesling wines as being primarily sweet and cheap. In fact, Northwest Rieslings are rivaling some of their Old World cousins for quality, regardless of their dry or sweet style. The recent introduction of the Riesling Taste Profile from the International Riesling Foundation has given consumers a new tool to judge the relative sweetness or dryness of bottles that employ the scale, and more Northwest producers have adopted it as a way to give wine buyers more information and confidence when they seek a bottle of Riesling. And as you can see by our ratings, there are some wonderful Northwest Rieslings to find!
Chateau Ste. Michelle WA 2010 Riesling, Columbia Valley Off-dry. Hay-hued green/gold color. Aromas of dried grass form the core of this wine’s nose, with detectable tones of apple and tangerine peel. A light mouthfeel belies the potency of the flavors: focused sweet peach, pear, and grapefruit tones are energetic and long-lived on the palate. Plenty of good acidity frames the juicy sweetness, and accents of minerals and straw help ground the fruit. A tasty wine with real force of flavor. Pair with cold smoked chicken for a refreshing summer treat. $9
vintage value
Elk Cove Vineyards OR 2009 Riesling, Estate, Willamette Valley Tastes mostly dry. Gentle waves of mixed grapefruit, mint, and mineral scents are somewhat subdued on the nose, yet incite thoughts of gravel dampened by a summer shower. Much more energetic on the palate than the nose would suggest, multiple flavors of sweet peach, pear, and grapefruit are bright, lively, and fresh, giving a jaunty feel to the wine in the mouth. Good acidity focuses the flavors well, and notes of piquant spice and bitter tangerine peel add a rakish element. Excellent length extends into the fresh finish, leaving you craving more of this energetic wine. Pair with Asian pork steamed buns for a sensual treat. (996 cases made.) $19
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
JoieFarm BC
Trisaetum OR
2010 Riesling, Okanagan Valley Medium
2009 Riesling, Josahn, Willamette Valley
sweet. Fresh aromas of ripe apple and tangy lime join subtle ginger spice hints. Soaring acidity balances notable sweetness (25 g/L), while brightening the intense lemon drop and green apple flavors. Delightful candied lime peel finish. Splendid match for spicy fish cakes. (1,119 cases made.) $23 cdn
Dry. Subdued aromas of toasted nuts and gentle minerality are warm, but require some teasing to show their character. On the palate, there is an immediate sense of fruity sweetness (though upon checking after tasting, the winery indicates it is dry) with peach at the center and ripples of pineapple beyond. The texture is lush, with a supple and warming quality on the tongue, yet there is distinct acidity that gives backbone and a soft bite to the fruit. This wine has the sense that there is additional force waiting to be unleashed with time in the cellar: clearly a good idea! $24
Pacific Rim WA 2008 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley Dry. Pretty sparkling gold color.
vintage value
The nose is a little subdued, but displays dried straw, pear, and an appealing floral character. Nothing subdued about the taste of this wine, however! Bold and tart flavors of lemon/lime, jasmine, sweet-seeming pineapple, and a bracing minerality are buoyant on the palate. Bracing acidity is very well balanced with the intensity of the fruit giving the wine a spirited character. The finish is long and pleasing, with plenty of residual fruit flavors echoing in the mouth. This is a wine that could be paired with any number of dishes, from spicy Asian foods to native Northwest seafood, or it could be sipped on the back deck with charcuterie and nuts. (10,500 cases made.) $10
Quails’ Gate BC 2010 Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley VQA Dry. Honeydew melon and green apple aromas lead the charge. Vibrant acidity and lime resonate on the palate. Clean refreshing finish. A subtle, savory green tea component adds complexity. Serve with a roasted pear and endive salad, sprinkled with toasted walnuts. $17 cdn
Tantalus BC 2008 Old Vines Riesling, Okanagan Valley VQA Assertive aromas of citrus, green apple, and coveted petrol impress the nose. Scintillating acidity dances on the tongue, with lemon oil partnering with ginger spice. Refreshing, mouth-puckering finish lingers long with lime zest and mineral notes. Will evolve in the cellar over the next 8 years, but exciting now with crispy, chilispiced squid. $30 cdn
stellar
selection
w Rosé
As the weather warms in spring, so many wine lovers turn their imbibing attention to rosé wines because of their easy quaffability combined with refreshing character. Even so, too many consumers still shun “pink wine,” sometimes out of the misguided idea that they are a blend of red and white wines. Varietal rosé wines are layered and complex, with a satisfying freshness and elegant varietal character. Refreshing on their own, they are also versatile accompaniments to many types of food.
Tre Nova OR 2010 Rosato, Dry Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley, Washington Intense
vintage
and quite lovely, deep scarlet rose color. Lively aromas of cherry fruit have a lush and weighty quality on the nose, with herbal and earthy accents contrasting with a floral top note. Zestful flavors of strawberries and cherries are alive with fruit-sweetness, yet at the same time there is a tangy dryness on the palate that expresses a lime-tinged sense of citrus tartness. Robust acidity brings real power to the fruit flavors, and the finish is remarkably bright, lively, and long. This is an unusually opulent rosé that delivers copious fruitiness and a dynamic character. This dramatic rosé would pair beautifully with spit-roasted game hens. (257 cases made.) $12
value
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Left Coast Cellars OR 2009 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Rosy-hued copper color. Soft aromas of cherries and spring blossoms have a gentle accent of dried basil. Quite plush and viscous in texture, the flavors of fig and cherries are broad and weighty. There is an appealing softness to the mouthfeel, though sufficient acidity adds verve on the mid-palate. Notes of strawberry and lemon/lime creep in on the tangy finish. A substantial rosé that would pair well with a platter of cold-smoked salmon and rye crackers. (70 cases made.) $15
Haywire BC 2010 Gamay Noir Rosé, Okanagan Valley Dry. Salmon pink color. Delightful scents all along the red fruit spectrum. Bright cherry and cranberry upfront, while lean minerality takes command towards the back end. Verve and a hint of tannin resonate on the finish. Refreshing with Niçoise salmon salad. (1078 cases made.) $21cdn
J. K. Carriere Wines OR 2010 Glass, White Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Glittering metallic salmonrose color. Ample scents of watermelon and dried strawberries have a pleasing dried herbal quality, with a touch of citrus peel. Dynamic on the tongue with energetic tart/sweet (sweet from the fruitiness, not residual sugar) flavors of ripe melon, squeezed lemon, and fruit-sweet strawberry, all overlaying a foundation of dusty earth and dried autumn leaves. Great acidity gives a vital force to the fruit, which is remarkably concentrated and rich. The finish is quite powerful, with long-lasting tastes of citrus and melon. A bold wine that calls for pouring with duck rillettes. (546 cases made.) $20
Alloro Vineyard OR 2010 Vina Rosa, Rosé of Pinot Noir, Estate, Chehalem Mountains Pretty, medium-intensity pink color. Delightful fresh aromas of peach and dried grass are forward and mouthwatering. Light-bodied and almost airy on the tongue, flavors of peach, barelyripe strawberry, and melon are at first delicate, but gather force as the wine warms in the mouth. Pleasing crisp acidity makes the wine refreshing, and a sense of minerality and straw add complexity. The finish is very forceful, with persistent peachy notes and a lingering tartness. Pair with cold quiche. (45 cases made.) $21
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w Pinot
Noir
The 2008 vintage of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is considered by many to be one of the finest … ever! It was very cool throughout the growing season, but an extended Indian summer meant the fruit had plenty of time to mature on the vine and achieve full, balanced ripeness. The resultant wines have great concentration and elegance, with rich fruit flavor and freshening acidity. As you can see from some of the wines we feature here, we love the vintage ourselves!
Anam Cara Cellars OR
2008 Pinot Noir, Heather’s Vineyard, Nicholas Estate, Chehalem Mountains
stellar
selection
Pretty pastel rose color. Wonderfully spicy scents of vanilla-wrapped cherry fruit are pleasingly assertive, with gentle tinges of chocolate and mint. In the mouth, pure Pinot fruit flavors are clear and composed: cherry and raspberry tastes, with a light herbal fringe and distinct minerality. Wellbalanced acidity adds verve, while fine-grained tannins give unobtrusive structure. The finish is powerful, with cherry echoes reverberating into the distance. Clean, fruity, and forceful, this is the perfect wine to pair with local favorite, alder-grilled wild Chinook salmon. (50 cases made.) $60
BlackCap Wine of Oregon OR
2008 Pinot Noir, Black Cap, Willamette Valley Vivid magenta hue is bold and beautiful in the glass. Layered aromas seem to weave in and out of each other, leaving behind faint memories of red fruits, dried garden soil, forest floor, toasted clove, and pencil shavings. The mélange of scents leaves a sensation of being lost in a bramble thicket on a warm summer day. On the palate, the wine has focused flavors of black raspberry and dried cherries, complemented by violet blossoms, rose petals, and dusty dry earth. Subtle oaky tones provide slightly drying tannins, but glittering fruit provides all the enjoyment. Lean in style, yet with a boisterous center of fruit, this is a Pinot Noir that seems to have been created to pair with wood fire-grilled Chinook salmon. (357 cases made.) $45
David Hill Vineyards OR
2008 Pinot Noir, Blackjack, Willamette Valley Soft aromatic notes of crushed red fruits and toasty oak are balanced and pleasing on the nose. Initially soft-seeming on the palate, the fruitiness develops slowly, showing black raspberry and dark cherry flavors at first, with layered notes of cranberry, molasses, and ground white pepper. Noticeable oak influence adds toasty accents and provides noticeable tannic dryness. This is a densely textured wine with plenty of lush softness and concentrated flavors. The finish is medium in length, with a pleasing note of rose petals. A meaty Pinot to pair with grilled lamb chops. (100 cases made.) $45
Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards OR 2008 Pinot Noir, Lange Estate Vineyard, Dundee Hills Wellsaturated dark ruby color. Scents of brambly raspberry and blackberry fruit are surrounded by tones of tea, toast, and baking spices. In the mouth, wafts of bright raspberry and cherry flavors are broad and concentrated with forward acidity imparting a fresh feel. Polished tannins deliver what I think of as “smooth structure”—a firm backbone to the wine, but without any edge or bite. Ancillary tones of dried orange peel, minerals, and high-toned rose petals give the wine many interesting facets. The finish is powerful, with abiding fruitiness. Certainly a worthy cellar candidate for multi-year ageing, but it would not be amiss to serve now with a saddle of rabbit wrapped in smoked bacon. (295 cases made.) $60
Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards OR 2009 Pinot Noir, Reserve, Willamette Valley Scents of dried spices underpin a sense of sweet rose blossoms coupled with crushed red cherries. Silky upon entry, loads of strawberry and red cherry flavors are clean and clear on the tongue, with notes of minerality, graham, and dried rose petals. Though there is a subtle sense of softness about the wine, there is ample acidity on the tongue and the tannins are quite soft. Medium-bodied, but with an uplifting sense, this lively Pinot Noir would be a superb complement to miso-glazed sablefish. (3,360 cases made.) $32
Luminous Hills OR
2008 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Yamhill-Carlton District Lustrous scarlet red color. Full aromas of varietally pure ripe cherries and plums are accented with notes of vanilla and cola on the expressive nose. Light-bodied texture carries tart, lively red cherry flavors with a touch of cranberry expression. There is also a whiff of truffle and forest floor, making this a delectable wine. Tannins are wonderfully supple, and only noticeable on the finish, which is of moderate duration. Pair with grilled squab stuffed with wild rice. $28 44
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
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St. Innocent Winery OR 2008 Pinot Noir, Momtazi Vineyard. McMinnville Vibrant rosy red color. Initially sharp notes of dried spices give way with swirling to scents of crushed blackberries, graham mixed with rose blossoms, and a touch of warm pie crust. On the tongue, the wine delivers tart and dark blackberry, cherry, and boysenberry flavors with a bristly texture, thanks to the combination of angular acidity and marked tannins. There is a pleasing intensity to the fruit, and real force to the flavors, but as yet the wine hasn’t integrated all its elements, making for a somewhat rustic character. To drink now, it’s best to pair force with force: Moroccan lamb tagine would provide the spice, fruit, and savoriness to balance the wine’s youthful rowdiness. (798 cases made). $39
St. Innocent Winery OR 2008 Pinot Noir, Temperance Hill Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills Evenly hued, mediumdark rose red color. Wafts of brown spice-tinged red cherry scents combine with a more substantial note of berry compote. Luscious and weighty on the palate, flavors of black cherry and strawberry jam are pleasing and mouthfilling. Fresh acidity gives the flavors zing, and subtle polished tannins provide good structure without being obtrusive. The finish echoes with plump fruitiness. This is a clean and rich Pinot with enough force and concentration to pair with a cold steak salad on a warm summer day. (656 cases made.) $32
stellar
selection
Torii Mor Winery OR 2008 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Select, Chehalem Mountains Spicy aromas emphasize smells of smoldering dried leaves and dusty earth over background notes of crushed red and brambly fruits. Immediate sensations of cranberry tartness fill the palate, with only slightly sweeter accents of strawberry and red cherry emerging after additional sips. An intensely fruity Pinot, with a very bright and vibrant character, thanks to ample jaunty acidity. There are also lingering (and needed) notes of earthiness and spice. The balance emphasizes fruit and acidity, though there are noticeable finegrained tannins to provide structure. The finish is long, with lingering spice and cherry flavors. This Pinot still has youthful verve and could easily benefit from 2–5 additional years in the cellar. (237 cases made.) $40
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Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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Sauvignon
In the Northwest, it is Washington that holds the title for cult-like Cabernets. Producers such as Quilceda Creek, Leonetti Cellar, and Andrew Will, among others, have become synonymous with top-tier Cabernet Sauvignon. One hallmark of Washington Cabernets is their restraint. While full of fruit, the balance achieved in the warm days and cool nights of the Columbia Valley give the wines a high-toned spirit that distinguishes them from the so-called “fruit bombs” of other regions.
Browne Family Vineyards WA 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley
The Ultimate Wine Country Experience Tasting Room Hours April-October: Daily, 11am-5pm
Try our Sparklings They are great summertime wines!
26830 NW Olson Rd. Gaston, OR 503.662.4545 • kramerwine.com
Beautifully clear, dark rose red color. Complex aromas of blackberries and plums intermingle with vanilla, allspice, cedar, and menthol on the involved—and involving—nose. Tart flavors of red plums and cassis, with underlying black raspberries, are clean, lip smacking, and nicely framed by clean acidity and finely polished, round tannins. The finish is long and fruity, though some oaky tones linger a little too long. A very tasty Cabernet to pair with an unadorned, high-quality cut of meat such as a medium-rare Porterhouse steak. (475 cases made.) $30
San Juan Vineyards WA 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Darkly hued purple/black color. Stereotypical Cabernet aromas of black fruits, an edge of dried herb, a touch of molasses, and a gently menthol-like sweetness in the nose. Supple in the mouth, with pleasingly rich flavors of plum and cassis, and a touch of strawberry tartness around the edges of the palate. There is a subtle background of tomato leaf, and on the finish, a slight bite of tar. Tannins are well controlled, and the fruit is forward and tasty. $19
Tasting room open daily. www.elkcove.com open 24-7.
You are welcome anytime.
Seven Hills WA 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley Rosy purple color. Plump aromas of sweet black fruits are complemented by notes of dried autumn leaves and ever-so-slightly too-long-in the-sun ripe plums. Similar notes appear on the palate, with lots of sweet cassis and blackberry flavors surrounded by vanilla, violet, and toast tones. The wine is very well balanced, offering satisfying flavors, fresh acidity, subtle tannins, and a remarkably long and fruity finish. Though still young, this Cabernet is very well integrated, and would be a beautiful match for a crushed peppercorn-coated grilled steak. $32
stellar
selection
27751 NW Olson Rd. Gaston, OR 97119 877-ELKCOVE
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
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Dusted Valley WA 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Deep purple black color. The nose offers savory scents of graphite and cedar, dried earth and boysenberry fruit, with an interesting tension between subtle tar notes and floral violet nuances. Restrained on the palate, the fruit shows plenty of currant and raspberry character, surrounded by tones of damp earth and dried herbs, with a goodly amount of cola and molasses accents. The acidity gives the fruit a high-toned aspect that is quite pleasing, and the tannins, while definitely present, are quite fine and furry. The finish is pleasing, and full of bright red fruit. Cabernet to serve with uncomplicated foods such as a charcoal-grilled (forget the gas grill, please!) hamburger. (700 cases made.) $30
n ’s orkreeepggto ec’ r osn
s ets o best best kept secrets SILVER FALLS STATE PARK OREGON GARDEN
& Wine tasting in silverton Oregon’s Coolest Small town!
historic wolf building 201 E. Main St. • Silverton, OR
SeriouS Pinot. not So SeriouS PeoPle.
Visit us in the Chehalem Mtns, only 30 min from Portland. Open Fridays & Saturdays 11 am to 4 pm and by appointment
Woodward Canyon WA 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Artist’s Series #17, Washington State Deeply saturated purple rose color. Full-on Cabernet Sauvignon aromas of leaf-accented blackberry and cassis fruit, dusty dry earth, and soft barrel spice. Generous on the palate, flavors of cassis and sweet blackberry are surrounded by toast and chocolate accents. Great balance of acidity and fruit intensity framed by very soft tannins that don’t distract from the tasting experience. Well made but still young, and likely to show at its best after 3-5 years resting in the cellar—with a life expectancy likely triple that time period. (238 cases made.) $49
The Tasting Notes department of Northwest Palate presents some of the highlights from our ongoing tasting of wines from around the Northwest. In fact, there are many more wines that we recommend than E s s E n t ia can fit into the l Win space available of th E no es rt hw Es t in each of our bimonthly issues. To see what else we Washington A Guide to the Best fro recommend , Oregon, Ida m ho, & British Columbia from among the hundreds of Northwest wines we sample, order your copy of our new publication Essential Northwest Wines Quarterly, available in digital or print formats. To order, visit www.nwpalate.com. apr i l – Jul
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Thursday-Monday,NOON noonTO to5PM 5pm THURSDAY-MONDAY, aprilTHROUGH throughNOVEMBER November APRIL
PuddingRiver_0611-3.indd 1
9995 N.E. ParrEtt MtN rd. NEwbErg, Or 97132 • 503-554-0721 JKCarriere.Com
5/20/11 12:29:56 PM
It’s about the experience...
y 2011
With hundreds of wineries to choose from, pick the one that stands out. LAKE CHELAN, LEAVENWORTH & WENATCHEE VALLEY
www.cascadevalleywinecountry.com
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Award-Winning NW Red Wines | Bocce Outdoor Terraces | Coastal Range Views Tasting Room Open Daily 11am-5pm Enoteca Lunch ~ Chef’s Supper Friday & Saturday, 11-3pm & 5-8:30pm Thursday Night Casual Bocce Menu Wine Country Sunday Brunch, 11-3pm 750 West Lincoln • Carlton, Oregon CanasFeastWinery.com | 503-852-0002 Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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$15
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Believes in
In honor and support of this bold campaign, we are proud to announce that our tasting room will only be pouring white wines made from this noble grape all summer long! Since we began, in 1998, we have been passionate about making Riesling in the Willamette Valley! With over 2,000 cases produced a year and a wide range of styles, we promise to please your senses with current releases and library wines!
Join the movement and make your appointment today!
9360 SE Eola Hills Road - Amity, Oregon
- 503.435.1278 -
www.brookswines.com “2009 Washington Winery of the Year”
WOOD WARD CANY ON WOODW CANYON Est. 1981
tasting room open daily
Wine Press Northwest
“Best destination winery”
Seattle Magazine
Celebrating 30 Years!
Come taste our nationally acclaimed wines and enjoy the stunning views on our extensive arbor.
Summer Concert Series Styx & Yes July 30th
ALSO OFFERING PRIVATE TASTINGS BY APPOINTMENT
Michael McDonald & Boz Scaggs Sept. 17th
11920 W. Hwy 12, Lowden Walla Walla Valley
www.maryhillwinery.com
www.woodwardcanyon.com 509-525-4129 48
Gipsy Kings Aug. 6th
JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
Counting Crows Sept. 24th
1-877-MARYHILL
9774 Hwy. 14 Goldendale, WA
have said it before: Craig Mitrakul is a true winemaking talent. The wines he has made for Saint Laurent Estate Winery and Ryan Patrick Vineyards, two of the most interesting Columbia Cascade-area (think Wenatchee) wineries, have been superb. And now, the first releases from his new, personal, label prove the point anew—they are excellent. Craig earned a Bachelor’s degree in Food Science from Rutgers University, and a Master’s degree in the same subject—with an emphasis on enology—from Cornell University. His practical winemaking experience is global. He has done stints in Australia, the Finger Lakes of New York, Oregon’s Willamette Valley (including assistant winemaker at the state’s famed Ponzi Vineyards), and has extensive experience in Washington at Chateau Ste. Michelle, Three Rivers, Ryan Patrick, and Saint Laurent wineries. This wideranging background has given Craig extensive knowledge of different climates and grape varieties. Washington grows more Riesling than any other grape (in fact, more than anywhere else in the New World), and with a zeal for the variety that came from his Finger Lakes experience, it was natural that a Riesling would be among the premier releases from Craig’s Crayelle Cellars. His 2009 Dry Riesling offers rich aromas of broiled peach, cut pear, and the smell of summer rain on a hot concrete sidewalk. Deliciously tart, thanks to lively acidity, flavors of red apple and white peach are accented by an edgy minerality, with notes of kiwi fruit in the background. The finish has great duration and the wine ends with a fresh and peachy flavor. The predominant Riesling style in Washington allows some degree of residual sweetness, but Craig has deliberately produced a bone-dry version that emphasizes the twin attributes of satisfying fruitiness and invigorating acidity. The result is an incisive Riesling that displays the full allure of the variety. And while Americans are generally unused to the idea of ageing white wines, this is the kind of Riesling that will contiunue to develop in the bottle for many years. —Cole Danehower
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Crayelle Cellars
2009 Dry Riesling, Washington
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1350_NW Palate 1 1350 OHS
essential wines and wineries of the pacific northwest
A Guide to the Wine Countries of4.75" Washington, Oregon, British Columbia, and Idaho x 2.25"
by Cole Danehower photography by Andrea Johnson
Discover the riches of Northwest wine in the pages of this beautiful new guide to the wine countries of Washington, Oregon, British Columbia, and Idaho. Written by Northwest Palate copublisher and James Beard Foundation Journalism Award winner Cole Danehower, this book takes you through the viticultural riches of the Pacific Northwest. Photography by Andrea Johnson conveys the full beauty of this amazing wine region.
ISBN: 978-0-881920966-9, $24.95 • Published by Timber Press • 503-227-2878 • timberpress.com
Are you enjoying this issue of Northwest Palate magazine? It's easy to subscribe! Just visit www.nwpalate.com to begin a new subscription, renew your current
Finely Crafted Small Batch Wines Monday — Wednesday: 11am to 5pm • Thursday — Sunday: 11am to 7pm
subscription, or submit a change of address request. You'll also find a complete calendar of culinary events around the Northwest, and additional stories, recipes, and wine reviews.
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614 E. 1st strEEt, NEwbErg, Or. 97132 • 503.537.2094 artisanalwinecellars.com
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Northwest Palate | JULY/aUGUST 2011
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Chef Grant Achatz chats about local ingredients, surviving cancer, and the future of food. By Peter Szymczak
W
hen chef Grant Achatz was fighting for his life against Stage 4 tongue cancer, he lost his sense of taste. The intensive chemotherapy and radiation treatments caused his tongue to swell, chafe, and peel. He could barely eat. Yet amazingly, he continued to cook, working his normal 12 to 16 hours in the kitchen and developing new dishes for his James Beard Foundation Award-winning restaurant, Alinea, in Chicago, Illinois. Achatz recently published a memoir, Life, On the Line, which documents his rise as a chef, the creation of his innovative restaurant, and equally experimental cancer therapy. Today Achatz is cancer-free, and he and his taste buds are back in action. The busy chef has three new projects in the works and helps raise funds for cancer charities in Chicago and elsewhere, including a recent stopover in Seattle, followed by a food foray to Portland. On dining in Seattle and Portland Achatz raved about his meals in Seattle at Spur (“refreshing”) and Monsoon (“gorgeous”). In Portland, he dined at Aviary, Castagna, and Little Bird (“great”). Foremost on his tasting agenda, however, was a meal at Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok (see page 8 for more on this year’s Beard Awardwinning Best Chef: Northwest). Thai street food will be the focus of the upcoming menu at Achatz’s new restaurant, Next, where the restaurant is reinvented every 12 weeks and reservations are sold (and scalped) like tickets to a concert.
Photo by Peter szymczak
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Achatz journeyed to Seattle this past May to deliver the keynote speech at the Premier Chefs Dinner, the annual fundraiser for the Fred Hutchison Cancer Research Center. The event raised a record amount this year—more than $518,000! During his speech, he harked back to his On cooking locally, cancer treatment, when he lost his sense of taste and came to rely on his sense of smell. It was seasonally, and sustainably during this time that he created what has become “In this day and age, if you’re a chef, no his favorite dish: a burning twig of oak leaves that matter what genre you’re cooking in, if you perfumes a dish of maple, apples, squash, and don’t pay attention to local artisan farmers, pheasant, all of which combines to evoke the organic when possible, then you’re behind sensation of autumn. the times.” “Aroma is a memory trigger. It’s transportive. That smell of burning oak leaves is, like, instant”—he snaps his fingers—“teleport back to my childhood.” Of his other culinary creations, the one that transports him back to the Pacific Northwest is a dish on the menu at Alinea called “WILD MUSHROOMS, pine, sumac, ramp” featuring several ingredients sourced seasonally from the region. “Seattle is a beautiful city. Everything is so green and lush, and flowers are everywhere,” he said. But what really struck him was the smell, which appears under the dish in the pine-scented pillow. “It incorporates Northwest ingredients, but also the smells that I feel while I’m here,” he said. Grant Achatz’s sketch of his Pacific Northwest-inspired dish: “Even the softness of the air WILD MUSHROOMS, pine, sumac, ramp and the humidity when you breathe it in.”
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JULY/aUGUST 2011 | Northwest Palate
On Pacific Northwest cuisine “You have local wineries, an amazing climate, a long growing season, and the markets. Why can’t we have [Seattle’s Pike Place Market] in Chicago? There’s a couple great markets, but nothing that vast.”
On sourcing ingredients from the Pacific Northwest “We get quite a bit from over here. Tons of mushrooms, ramps, wild nettles, morels, salmon, and steelhead trout roe sourced from the Quinault.”
On the future of cancer treatment “Certain foods contain enzymes and nutrients that can literally topically fight back cancer growth. The foods naturally block the blood flow to the tumor, not allowing it to grow. Tomatoes, blueberries, strawberries—there are studies that show cancer can be cured with food only. That’s awesome. That could verily be the future.“
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Willamette Valley Wineries are coming to Portland! 150 wineries. One urban block. Experience the Willamette Valley like never before.
SEPTEMBER 10 &11
NW 9th & Marshall
willamettewines.com
pinotinthecity.com
Item #144Š2011 Erath Vineyards, Dundee, OR 97115
Grapes from the EARTH, wines from the HEART....
Come
the Art of Pinot
visit our wine tasting room :
9409 ne worden Hill road, dundee, oregon 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily | eratH.Com