Small town America

Discovering small town America

After a happy accident 25 years ago, trips to the USA turned into a whole new experience for Hilary Hiscox of Congresbury NWR and her husband.

If ever you plan a road trip in America, it is well worth considering staying at a bed and breakfast rather than a hotel or motel. However good the hotel facilities are, there is little variation, but in a B&B you meet American families in their own homes, and every time it’s a new experience.

My husband and I discovered this accidentally when, on a visit to friends in San Diego, we decided to fly into San Francisco and enjoy a 10-day drive south to their home. After a few days, hungry and tired, we were delighted to spot a sign on a beautiful clapboard house in the woods near Yosemite stating that The Inn at Sugar Pine Ranch had vacancies. However, they couldn’t offer us dinner so we sadly went on our way and eventually checked in to the only motel we could find.

After a forgettable meal, faced with a tiny, rather grubby and soulless room, we took a risk, cancelled the booking and made the 30-mile drive back to Sugar Pine Ranch. It was well after 10pm but the porch light was on, so we knocked tentatively and were greeted by Elaine, wearing her dressing gown. “I thought you’d be back,” she said, smiling. She showed us to a large room full of old-world charm where we had a wonderful night’s sleep.

Oh, the surprise in the morning! After enjoying a pot of fresh coffee delivered to our room we found Elaine and Craig kitted out as homestead settlers who served us the most delicious breakfast. We were treated like royalty and loved chatting with them both, hearing about their daily life and family. When they learned of our onward plan, or lack of one, everything changed!

The California Association of Bed and Breakfast Inns, of which they were members, vet all properties before they are accepted. Elaine insisted we took the CABBI book with us, refusing payment. Armed with this we continued our journey south, ending each day in a perfect B&B!

The first was in Mariposa and holds a very special memory for us. Poppy Hill was a beautiful house with a wrap-around deck and a stunningly colourful garden, set on a hillside. On our return from dinner it looked magical, with twinkling fairy lights dotted around the garden. Mary Ellen greeted us with a bottle of chilled white wine and glasses and told us that, since she slept on the other side of the building, we would be quite alone if we used the garden hot tub. I had to pinch myself to check it was all real—glass of Chablis in my hand, the scent of honeysuckle and the air so clear that the stars seemed close enough to touch.

After that first foray into American B&B land, we were hooked. Subsequent road trips revealed that each state had its own association so we were able to take advantage of this every time. Before too long we could access the information on the internet but we liked to phone to book as we could tell immediately on talking to the hosts if it was going to be right for us.

Another unforgettable stay was in Colorado at the Ticket Office, a disused narrow-gauge railway station deep in a valley. Our Pullman car was old style glamour and the hosts charming. Early the next morning I set off down the valley to where I had been told beavers could sometimes be found. The tips of the mountains were appearing out of the mist and there was a deep sense of peace—until I heard screeches and what sounded like a lot of youths kicking up a rumpus after a night out. Tutting to myself, I assumed there was a group camping nearby and was relieved when it stopped.

Finding the dam but no beavers, I sat for a while before returning to fresh coffee with our host. She asked if I had heard the coyotes, and was surprised when I said no. They had been

Left: Horsepower Amish style—such friendly people Above: Hiding among the pumpkins on a Halloween trip Above right: At home with colourful Texan artist Barbara Below: So many excellent, friendly hosts to welcome us, friends to meet and unique places to stay!