VE NE TIAN SWEETS •••
a little book with big taste
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CONTENTS
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INTRODUCTION
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CARNIVAL • fritole • galani • zaleti •
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CATHOLICISM
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GEOGRAPHY
• bussolà buranello • fugassa • • nadalin • pinza veneta • pandoro di verona •
• baicoli • zabaione •
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CONVERSIONS
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
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INTRODUCTION
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Veneto, one of the fifth largest regions of Italy, has a rich cultural history. Located where land and water merge, there is an abundance of fish and crustaceans, fruits and vegetables, and various culinary influences due to trade. The lagoon waters attract migratory birds that provide exotic flavors to savory meals. The climate induces plentiful harvests. When choosing a region of Italy to study, I was attracted to Veneto’s large variety of dishes which changed depending on season. Initially, I researched ingredients that were popular depending on the time of year, reading about items such as white asparagus in the spring; funghi, or wild mushrooms, in the fall; and radicchio in the winter. However, as I developed a long list of recipes I was attracted to—fritole, galani, nadalin, pandoro—I realized that many of them were tied to religious customs or regional quirks. This turned my focus from seasonal ingredients to celebrations, Catholicism, and geography. Finally, I decided to specialize my book in sweets, as there are multiple 1
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examples of each in all three of the categories. When reading though the following recipes in this book, it is important to note that a few dishes, particularly the one in the Carnival section, are also prepared elsewhere in Italy. However, Veneto is world-reknown for its Carnival celebrations, so the most beloved recipes were ultimately still included, as they major parts of Venetian culture. To maintain authenticity, I researched Venetian food blogs to find versions prepared in the style specific to the region. Additionally, I chose to exclude certain recipes that do not have a definite, credible link to Veneto. For example, tiramisu is incredibly popular in Northern Italy but has been left out due to an unreliable history. Nevertheless, this book provides a general overview of Venetian cuisine and its history, and was incredibly enjoyable to work on. 2
CARNIVAL
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The Carnival of Venice (Carnevale di Venezia) is held annually in Venice, Italy. The Carnival ends with Lent, forty days before Easter on Shrove Tuesday (Fat Tuesday or Martedì Grasso) and one day before Ash Wednesday. The origins can be traced back to the beginning of the 14th century. Some believe that the Carnival is the result of a victory of the Serenissima Repubblica against the Patriarch of Aquileia, Ulrico in 1162. In the honor of this victory, Venetians danced in San Marco Square. The festival was tradition until it was outlawed by the King of Austria in 1797 and the use of masks, a major part of the celebration, was forbidden. In 1979, the Italian government decided to bring back the history and culture of Venice. The Carnival was revived and, to this day, remains a popular event for tourists and native Venetians alike. Numerous opportunities for spending money exist at the Carnival—gambling, acrobats, jugglers, booths of exotic animals, and most important of all, food! 3
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Fritole Considered by many the queen of Venetian sweets, fritole have been valued since the days of the Serenissima Republic. Bartolomeo Scappi, the personal chef of Pope Pius V, recorded the first official recipe, helping to raise it to the status of the “national sweet of the Venetian State.” It is eaten in celebration of Carnival. The fritole was produced in various streets of the city, in homes and bakeries, and most famously in square wooden huts around the city canals. During the Republic of Venice, fritole makers formed their own association, composed of seventy “fritoleri,” each with his own area where he could exercise exclusive business and pass it on to his children. The corporation remained active until the fall of the Republic, though the art of “fritoleri” remains alive to this day. Fritole come in a variety of styles, both filled and unfilled. The available choices include fritole veneziane: without filling, but with raisins and 5
pine nuts mixed into the dough; fritole con crema chantilly: filled with a light vanilla-flavored pastry cream; fritole con cioccolata: filled with a mild chocolate-flavored pastry cream; and fritole con zabaione: filled with a Marsala-flavored pastry cream. Serves 3 200 gr flour 50 g raisins softened in brandy or rum 50 g of pine nuts 50 g candied fruit 100 gr sugar 15 gr of yeast 1 glass of brandy or rum 1 lemon rind Icing sugar EVOO for frying 1. Sift the flour into a bowl and add the sugar. Then, dissolve the yeast in tepid water and add it to the flour. A dough should form. 6
2. Add the liqueur and a little water if necessary. Keep mixing all the ingredients together until a soft dough with no lumps forms. Add the grated lemon rind, chopped candied fruit, raisins, and pine nuts to the dough. Cover with a tea towel or film and let it rest in a warm place until it has doubled in size. 3. In a small pan, add about 6-7 cm EVOO for deep frying. Heat the oil slowly and gently so it does not burn. Fry the fritole by throwing a generous spoonful of dough into hot, sizzling oil. Dry on paper towels, dust with icing sugar, and serve warm.
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Galani There are no Carnival celebrations in Italy without some crispy fried dessert. They have different names depending on where they are purchased: chiacchere in the South of Italy and Milan; frappe in Rome, Viterbo, and Ancona; bugie in Liguria and Piedmont; cenci in Tuscany; and maraviglias in Sardinia. Although all these names refer to the same style of dish, recipes vary between regions and within cities. Serves 4 500 g plain flour (100g extra for pastry board) 5 egg yolks 110 g caster sugar 50 g of icing sugar 1 shot glass of Grappa 1 glass of Prosecco 1 packet of vanilla flavored backing powder pinch of table salt 25 g butter at room temperature 1 lemon rind peanut oil for frying 9
1. On the pastry board (or in a small planetary mixer), combine flour, caster sugar and vanilla baking powder; blend together and add the pinch of salt. Rub the mixture until it resembles breadcrumbs. 2. Add the egg yolks, Grappa and lemon rind. Mix all ingredients until thoroughly combined, and then drizzle in the Prosecco until a smooth and elastic dough forms that blisters from the bowl (or from the pastry board). 3. Form dough into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap; set aside to rest in a cool place for two hours. 4. Divide dough into balls each the size of a mandarin. Roll each ball out thinly into strips through the dough rollers of a pasta maker. Cut the strips into 10cm squares and deep-fry in hot peanut oil at 160째 C until golden brown. Dry on paper towels, dust with icing sugar, and serve warm.
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Zaleti Zaleti, meaning “little yellow things,” are a rustic type of cookie. They were once served exclusively during the Carnival season but are now available year round. The defining characteristic of these cookies is their yellow color due to corn flour— an ingredient present in all of the farmhouses in centuries past. Carlo Goldoni, an Italian playwright and librettist, mentions the cookies in his 1749 book La Buona Moglie during an conversation between the main characters, one of which describes the zaleti as an inexpensive product, indirectly confirming its humble origins. Serves 4 2 c medium grind cornmeal flour 2 c sifted all-purpose flour ¼ tsp baking powder 1 tsp vanilla extract 2/3 c butter or lard, room temperature ½ c sugar 2/3 c raisins plumped in water, patted dry 11
¾ c pine nuts 2 eggs 1 c milk grated zest of 1 lemon confectioner’s sugar to taste 1. Mix the two types of flour with baking powder and vanilla powder. 3. Mix the softened butter with sugar, then add eggs, milk, raisins, pine nuts and lemon zest. Mix well until evenly combined. 5. Add sifted flour mixture gradually to avoid lumps. Shape into 2 ½-3 inch “eggs” between palms. Arrange side by side on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. 8. Bake in a preheated 375° F oven for about 20-25 minutes, depending on the size of the zaleti.
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9. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Dust with confectioner’s sugar.
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CATHOLICISM
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Catholicism has strong influence in Italy. At least 80% of the population is Catholic, with about a third of the population still actively practicing the faith today. The pope resides in Vatican City, Rome. For several hundred years, the Church dictated a clear separation within meal routines—“lean” days meant no meat, lard, and animal products, with “fat” days allowing the former. As times progressed, eggs and cheese were considered “lean.” Until then, fish was the only form of substantial protein for devout Catholics. The Italian Catholic traditions possessed strong influence until the late 1960s, when the Vatican removed the obligation to eat fish on Fridays. The remnants of these customs are evident still today. While most of the traditions forced Italians to refrain from certain indulgent foods, the celebratory holidays were reasons to feast. The following recipes, due to their rich nature, were originally only consumed during either of the two most important 15
B Catholic holidays—Easter, Christ’s resurrection, or Christmas, Christ’s birth. With time, the treats became more accessible thoughout the year.
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Bussolà Bussolà Buranello means the compass of Burano, a fisherman’s island famous for it’s rows of brightly colored houses. The curved biscuits were traditionally consumed on Easter, but can now be found throughout the year. When freshly baked, they are soft and delicate. They can be eaten several days after baking if kept in a sealed container; with time, the biscuits harden, making them ideal for dunking in hot tea or sweet wine. Packaged, they are placed in the middle of clothes drawers because of their lovely buttery scent. Makes 12 340 g all-purpose flour 200 g sugar 4 egg yolks 100 g butter 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp lemon zest, finely grated
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F 1. Sift together flour and sugar. In the center, add the egg yolks, lightly beaten, and mix well. 2. Add the butter, vanilla extract and lemon zest. Work the dough until smooth and soft. 3. Cut in small pieces and roll the pieces to make ropes about 8–12 inches long and 1/2–3/4 inch wide. Make circles on a greased cookie sheet and bake in a preheated oven at 400° F for 15 minutes or until pale golden brown.
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Fugassa Fugassa is a descendant of old traditions involving bread with sultanas and raisins. The earliest recipes, kneaded and leavened several times over, were enriched with eggs, sugar, lard, pine-nuts, almonds, and vanilla. Fugassa was traditionally eaten around Easter, but became a way for men to announce his desire for bethothral to his fiancé’s family, with the engagement ring hidden inside. Under the rule of the Serenissima, the Fugassa became a metaphor for celebration. Fugassa is a delicate, aromatic cake, crusty on the outside, and spongy and golden on the inside. The ingredients in the following recipe are basic—eggs, flour, yeast, butter and sugar topped with crunchy sugar pieces and whole or sliced almonds. Each household or bakery has its own variants, tricks to make it extra exquisite, such as milk for richness or some orange peel for flavor. While the recipe for fugassa is not particularly complex, it is time consuming—the secret to its soft texture is the multiple steps and hours spent rising. Some 19
famous bakeries claim that a rising process of 55 hours is mandatory for success! Fugassa remains soft for many days and is well accompanied with a glass of Prosecco. Makes 1 325 grams of flour 6 grams of yeast 75 ml of warm milk 170 grams of sugar 2 tbs of orange-flavored sugar 1 tbs vanilla sugar 2 eggs zest of 2 lemons 3 heaping tbs candied citrus 1 tbs freshly pressed orange juice 4 tbs lemon juice 1 tbs ground almonds coarse sugar for dusting
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1. Start by making a dough. Mix 100 grams of flour, yeast, warm milk, and a teaspoon of sugar. Mix and leave this dough in a bowl covered with a sheet for 60 minutes. 2. Add another 225 grams of flour, 65 grams of sugar, orange-flavored sugar, vanilla sugar, eggs, lemon zest, candied citrus, and orange juice to the first dough. Cover the dough once again and put it in a warm place for another 40 minutes. 3. Transfer dough into tin. Cover the dough with a layer of frosting made from lemon juice, ground almonds and 100 grams of sugar. Finally, add coarse sugar on top. Bake in oven at 180° F for about 35–40 minutes.
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Nadalin Nadalin is considered by many as the rustic father of Pandoro. It was created in 1200 to celebrate the first Christmas after the noble family of Della Scala came to power in Verona. Shorter than the Pandoro, the Nadalin has the same shape of an eight-point star, though less defined. Nadalin is traditionally eaten on Christmas Eve after midnight mass accompanied by a cup of dense hot chocolate or a glass of Recioto wine. Makes 1 500 gr all-purpose flour 170 gr butter, at room temperature and cut into small pieces 150 gr sugar 4 eggs 30 gr instant dry yeast 5 ml pure vanilla extract 5 gr salt 40 gr pine nuts confectioners’ sugar 22
1. In a big bowl or on a flat surface, sift the flour and make the well. In the center of the well, put the eggs and lightly beat them incorporating a small amount of the flour. Then add all the other ingredients except for the pine nuts. Mix all the ingredients fairly quickly until you obtain a compact dough. Be careful not to overwork it! 2. Shape the dough into a ball and put it in a big bowl. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it rise for about three hours, or until the dough has doubled in bulk. (If you do not have time to finish the job on the same day, you can let the dough rise overnight at room temperature.) 3. When the dough has risen, preheat the oven to 350째 F degrees and proceed to shape the dough. The shape is supposed to be very irregular, recalling a multiple-points star without being well defined. Instead of using star shape mold, simply put the dough on the back of a cake pan sprinkled with flour. Make a few cuts into the dough and then 23
P stretch it in all directions. When you are done shaping (or un-shaping) the dough, sprinkle the pine nuts on top, pressing them gently into the dough. 4. Bake for about 35–40 minutes or until the crust is lightly golden. Let the Nadalin cool completely before dusting with confectioners’ sugar.
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Pinza Veneta This cake was traditionally made on Twelfth Night’s Eve and eaten on the way home from bonfires. The cake is dense and moist, made with ingredients that even peasants could procure. Wealthier Venetians could afford fresh white polenta flour but, even today, Venetians often use stale bread soaked in milk due to tradition. Makes 1 200 g stale bread 2 c milk 1 handful fennel seeds 25 g fresh yeast 1 teaspoon baking powder zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon 150 g sugar 200ml milk 50 g butter 3 tbs grappa (or brandy) 500 g raisins 100 g pine nuts 25
100 g walnuts 250 g dried figs 250 g flour 00 pinch of salt 1. Pour two cups of milk into a saucepan with the fennel seeds. Bring to a boil, let cool, and then pour over bread cut into cubes. Leave to soften for a few hours—can be left overnight, covered in a bowl. 2. Prepare the base: dissolve 25 g of yeast in 200ml of warm milk with a teaspoon of sugar and 4 tbs of flour, then set aside to rest in a covered container (cloth or plastic wrap). 3. After half an hour, take the bread with milk and add 150 g of sugar, brandy, butter (melted and cooled), baking powder, the base prepared earlier, zests of lemon and orange, raisins, walnuts, dried figs cut into pieces, pine nuts, and a pinch of salt. Mix everything with 250 g of flour, working it all quickly with a spoon. 26
4. Butter a mold and pour the mixture in it. Put in the oven (switched off) covered with a wet cloth and leave to rise for 2 hours. 5. Heat the oven to 180째 C and bake for 15 minutes, then lower to 140째 C and bake for an additional hour and a half.
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Pandoro Pandoro, meaning Golden Bread, is a traditional Italian sweet yeast bread eaten around Christmas and New Year. It is traditionally shaped like a frustum with an eight-pointed star section. It is often served dusted with vanilla scented icing sugar as a nod to the snowy peaks of the Italian Alps. The first citation of a dessert clearly identified as Pandoro dates back to the 18th century. The modern history of this dessert bread began at Verona on October 30, 1894, when Domenico Melegatti obtained a patent for a procedure applied to produce pandoro industrially. To suit modern tastes, pandoro is sometimes served filled with chantilly cream or with vanilla gelato. Makes 2 2 c warm water 1 tbs active dry yeast 1 tbs sugar 9 egg yolks, plus 1 egg 5 1/2 c all-purpose flour 29
3/4 c sugar 3 tbs unsalted butter, melted zest of 1 lemon 2 c confectioners’ sugar 1. In a small bowl, combine 1/4 c warm water, yeast, sugar, 1 egg yolk, and 1/2 c flour, and blend well. Cover with a damp towel and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk. 2. On a clean work surface, mound 3 of the remaining cups of flour and make a well in the center. In a medium bowl, beat together 4 of the egg yolks, 1/2 c sugar, the butter and 1/2 c water. Add the yeast combination from above and mix well. 3. Pour the entire mixture into the flour well and gradually mix the flour into the liquids to form a sticky dough. Knead the dough for 5–10 minutes, or use the dough hook attachment on an electric mixer. The dough should remain somewhat tacky. 30
4. Grease or oil a large bowl and add the dough, turning to coat all sides. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours. 5. Punch down the dough and add the remaining flour, egg yolks, 1/2 c water, egg, sugar and lemon zest and knead until blended, then knead for an additional 10 minutes on a floured work surface. Place in a greased or buttered bowl and cover with plastic wrap, then let rise for an additional 2 hours. 6. Butter and flour two pandoro molds or coffee cans. Punch the dough down, divide it in 2, and roll each piece into a ball. Place one ball in each of the molds, and let rise for 1 1/2 hours. 7. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Bake the pandoro for 35 minutes. 8. In a small bowl, combine the confectioners’ sugar and water and stir well. Drizzle the pandoro with the glaze and serve in wedges. 31
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GEOGRAPHY
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Veneto, once the heartland of the Venetian Republic, is today among the wealthiest, most developed, and industrialized regions of Italy. According to legend, it’s capital, Venice, was developed when people fled from Troy. However, it was most likely formed in the sixth century CE, when Italian refugees escaping Lombard invaders camped on the islands of the Venice lagoon. Venice is a major player in Veneto, being the most famous and largest city. Over time, Venice developed as a trading center, doing business with both the Islamic world and the Byzantine empire. In 992, Venice earned special trading rights with the empire in return for the acceptance of Byzantine sovereignty. The city grew richer, and independence was gained in 1082. However, they retained trading advantages with Byzantium by offering the use of their powerful navy. Venice, being built on an archipelago of 117 islands formed by 177 canals in a shallow lagoon, is heavily 33
B connected with water. In the old center, the canals functioned as roads and almost every form of transport was either by water or foot. Today, the canals are still the primary way of transporting goods and people. The strong connection with water has affected the following types of food consumed by Ventians.
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Baicoli “Baicoli” biscuits, named after their shape, meaning “Sea Bass,” were originally used as ship’s biscuits. Baicoli were first mentioned in a dictionary of Venetian dialect in 1829, although scholars’ estimates for baicoli’s origins are much older. Today, the biscuits can be bought commercially across Venice in distinctive yellow tins. Baicoli are served with coffee and another famous dessert, zabaglione. 25 g brewer’s yeast 1/2 c warm water 1000 g baking flour 200 g sugar 200 g butter a few good pinches of salt drops of vanilla drops of milk 1. Dissolve 25 g brewer’s yeast into the warm water. Knead with around 300 g baking flour, and leave aside to rise. 2. Separately, knead 700 g more baking flour with the sugar, butter, a few good pinches of salt, and a few drops 35
Z of vanilla. Work into a dough, adding more water when necessary. 3. When the first dough has expanded to twice its original size, knead the two together—you might want to moisten the mixture with a few drops of milk. Leave to rise until twice the size. 4. Make 6–7 smaller rolls of the dough, place on a greased baking sheet and leave to rise for about 1 ½ hours. 5. Bake at 180º C for about ten minutes. Slice like a salami.
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Zabaglione Zabaglione can be considered either a dessert or beverage. The dessert version is a light custard, whipped to incorporate a large amount of air. There are two main claims of origin—there are references to zabaglione made in 1500 by a military captain with only scant provisions to feed his men; his soldiers were ordered to raid local farms and came back with eggs, sugar and fortified wine. Another popular story is that of Friar Pasquale de’ Baylon, whose recipe could “reinvigorate any numbness.” The friar recommended this recipe to the ladies of the Church of St. Thomas who were complaining to him that their husbands were not “being vivacious.” The friar went on to be selected as one of a small group of “Protectors of Cooks” in 1722. The recipe can modified slightly to play with the flavors, but, as an emulsion, the proportion of fat to liquid plays an important role.
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Serves 3 4 egg yolks 1/4 c Marsala wine (or a combination with spirits) 1/4 c sugar pinch of salt 1. In a large metal bowl, or top section of a double boiler, beat egg yolks and sugar until your mixture is pale and thickened. Set the bowl over simmering water. Do not allow the water to boil. Zabaglione needs to be cooked gently so that it stays smooth. 2. Add Marsala slowly, beating consistently. Zabaglione is ready when the mixture has tripled in volume and has a soft, fluffy consistency that will stick to the back of a spoon. This should take 6–10 minutes. 3. Immediately serve the zabaglione in individual small bowls or custard cups—or, for a special presentation, in a wine glass or champagne flute. 38
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CONVERSIONS
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Temperature 275°F = 140°C = gas mark 1 300°F = 150°C = gas mark 2 325°F = 165°C = gas mark 3 350°F = 180°C = gas mark 4 375°F = 190°C = gas mark 5 400°F = 200°C = gas mark 6 425°F = 220°C = gas mark 7 450°F = 230°C = gas mark 9 475°F = 240°C = gas mark 10 Volume 1/4 cup of butter = 57 g 1/3 cup of butter = 76 g 1/2 cup of butter = 113 g 1/8 c of flour/confectioners’ sugar = 16 g = 2 tbs 1/4 c of flour/confectioners’ sugar = 32 g 1/3 c of flour/confectioners’ sugar = 53 g 1 c of flour/confectioners’ sugar = 128 g 41
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1/8 c of granulated sugar = 25 g = 2 tbs 1/4 c of granulated sugar = 50 g 1/3 c of granulated sugar = 67 g 1 c of granulated sugar = 201 g 1/8 c of honey/molasses/syrup = 43 g = 2 tbs 1/4 c of honey/molasses/syrup = 85 g 1/3 c of honey/molasses/syrup = 113 g 1 c of honey/molasses/syrup = 340 g
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
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A Lover of Venice. “Traditional Venetian Fare.” My Favorites, A Lover of Venice. Web. 28 July 2013. “Baicoli Biscuits in Italy.” Venice Tourism: Travel Information for Venice, Italy. Venice Tourism, 30 October 2012. Web. 28 July 2013. Chef Dennis. “Welcome to Guest Post Friday with CaffeIna.” A Culinary Journey with Chef Dennis. A Culinary Journey with Chef Dennis, 24 December 2010. Web. 28 July 2013. De Filipi, Diane. “Zabaglione.” Italian Lessons, Napa Valley Register. Napa Valley Register, 28 November 2011. Web. 28 July 2013. De Palma, Gina. “Seriously Italian: Zabaione, My Way.” Serious Eats. Serious Eats, 13 August 2009. Web. 28 July 2013. Dickie, John. Delizia! The Epic History of the Italians and Their Food. New York: Free Press, 2008. 43
“Galani alias Chiacchere – Sweet fried thin pastry strips.” Cook in Venice: Learn to Cook like an Italian mama. Cook in Venice. Web. 28 July 2013. Giulia. “Pinza veneta, la mia ricetta.” In Cucina Per Caso. In Cucina Per Caso, 21 Februrary 2013. Web. 28 July 2013. Marta. “Easter delicious cake: the Fugassa Veneta (Focaccia or Italian Sweet Bread).” We Love Veneto: Your Travel Blog about Venice and Veneto. We Love Veneto. 1 April 2010. Web. 28 July 2013. “Nadalin.” alta cucina inc.: an epicurean society. Alta Cucina Society. Web. 28 July 2013. Rovati, Alessandra. “Venetian Carnival Galani.” Dinner in Venice. Dinner in Venice, 7 Februrary 2013. Web. 28 July 2013.
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Secchi, Marco. “Venice Frittelle – Venezia Fritole.” Marco Secchi. Marco Secchi, 18 January 2013. Web. 28 July 2013. Star, Cindy. “Happy New Year!” cindystarblog. Cindystarblog, 1 January 2012. Web. 28 July 2013. “Venetian Fritole: Deliciousness in Mask.” Home Food. Home Food, 19 Februrary 2012. Web. 28 July 2013.
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This book was designed by Nicole Yen in summer 2013 for Italian Food, Italian Culture taught by Erika Conti at Washington University in St. Louis. Typefaces used include Scala Sans, Signatura, and Bodoni. All illustrations were hand drawn with colored pencil on Bristol Vellum.
Grazie mille