SECRETS OF THE PRINCE’S PALACE REVEALED

By Xania Keane

The Prince’s Carabinieri march in perfect lockstep on the Cour d’Honneur. Oversized rifles are expertly flung over their shoulders as trumpets blast and military drums rattle. Tourists look on and smile, but the expressions on the Carabinieri’s faces are dead serious. The guards have been protecting the lives of the Prince and his family for over two hundred years. After watching the solemn changing of the guard, you walk towards the Palace, ticket in hand.

As you step across the geometric slabs of stone, beautifully restored a few short years ago, you picture Prince Rainier III opening up this very courtyard to the public for the first time. In 1959, the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra gave their first open air concert right here on the Cour d’Honneur. You look towards the 17th century staircase, dotted with spheres of black marble. An illustration of this double staircase is used as the logo for the Prince’s Palace.

A MEETING WITH “MALIZIA”

The first Grimaldi you meet on your way into the palace is François. His bronze statue adorns the Place d’Armes. Nicknamed “the Armed Monk” or “Malizia” (meaning “Cunning”) he is the founder of the Principality of Monaco. Over seven hundred years ago, Genoa was undergoing fierce internal struggles between the Guelphs (supporters of the Pope) and Ghibellines (supporters of the Emperor). On the night of 8 January 1297, François Grimaldi of the Guelph party, banished from Genoa, seized the fortress of Monaco with trickery by disguising himself as a seemingly harmless monk.

HIDDEN SECRETS OF THE PRINCE’S PALACE

After being greeted by François, you enter the lavish State Apartments. Checkered stained glass windows in red and white filter the bright sunlight. Statues of princes look on as you walk across the marble floors of Galérie des Princes. You peer at your reflection in one of the galerie’s colossal mirrors and you picture Princess Grace looking at her own reflection in this same mirror, when she made her first impromptu visit to the palace many years ago.

Throughout the State Apartments, you discover a secret that had remained hidden for centuries: 600 m2 of Italian Renaissance frescos, which were first discovered in 2015. They date back to the 16th century, when the old medieval fortress was first transformed into the palace it is today with the construction of an open, fifty metre gallery on two levels.

Found by chance, the frescoes have undergone an unprecedented restoration campaign. The incredible discovery shook the very history of the Principality, depicting centuries-old ties with the Mediterranean world and great myths that have shaped local culture. You gaze into the faces of two heroes and a heroine of the ancient world: Hercules, Ulysses and Europa, who have vividly come back to life after years of hiding.

You admire the freshly restored “Abduction of Europa” fresco, telling the story of princess Europa, whose spectacular beauty caught the attention of Zeus. He immediately fell in love with the young woman and transformed into a bull to seduce and kidnap her. You notice a little figure flying across the fresco. These mischievous figures are called “grotesques”. They are fantastic characters that can be found throughout the Prince’s Palace of Monaco.

“Grotesques” come from a style of painting that decorated 1st century Roman houses, including the famous Domus Aurea, built by Emperor Nero in the heart of ancient Rome. The villa was abandoned and forgotten until the end of the 15th century. After it was rediscovered, its motifs became a source of inspiration for Renaissance artists. You quickly notice another Grotesque. This one is grimacing. Then you see another, surrounded by leafy foliage.

Monaco and was rushed to this room in the palace. The Duke died here despite all the care provided at the behest of Prince Honoré III. The princely death gives this room a palpably sombre atmosphere, made even more poignant by the soft classical decor that has remained unchanged since the prince’s death.

Throne Room Frescoes Revealed

You make your way into the Throne room, a place symbolizing power, where all of Monaco’s Princes are sworn in. It’s where HSH Prince Albert II and Charlène Wittstock celebrated their marriage, as well as Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly before them.

Prince Albert Ii Requests Innovative Techniques For Restoration

Prince Albert II chose to use environmentally responsible techniques for the restoration of the palace frescoes. A palette of 14 custom colours was created, each one compatible with the original frescoes. Pigments made of natural minerals, sourced according to ecological, ethical and sustainable criteria are ground with plant-based binders, including gum arabica. The watercolour paint production is limited solely to the needs of the palace, so nothing is wasted.

Prince Of England Dies In The Royal Chamber

You walk into the Royal Chamber, also known as “York” and everything goes quiet. In 1767, Edward-Auguste, Duke of York, brother to King George III and prince of England, suddenly fell ill at sea while trying to reach Genoa. He made an emergency stop in

You admire the Empire-style throne, made of sculpted wood and topped by a giltframed crown. It features the Sovereign Family’s coat of arms and the motto “Deo Juvante” (Latin for “With God’s Help”).

You glance up at the ceiling and what you see takes your breath away. An epic composition tells the “Nekya” tale from Homer’s Odyssey in which Ulysses visits the gates of Hell. Through a ritual sacrifice, the hero invokes the soul of a seer in order to decide which route to follow to regain Ithaca. It took workers over fifty hours just to restore one single face in the breathtaking fresco, which features twenty faces!

GALERIE D’HERCULE, ODE TO MONACO’S LEGENDARY FOUNDER

Hercules is considered the mythical founder of the Principality of Monaco. After battling a herdsman and taking his cattle, the hero built the Rock of Monaco. You take in the exploits of Hercules portrayed in the galerie’s frescoes. From 2015 to 2020, thirteen hidden “lunettes” (semi-circle paintings) in the fifty-metre-long Galerie d’Hercule were beautifully restored. Some of the lunettes were missing their lower halves, so the restoration team had to make educated guesses and complete the frescoes, sometimes with the use of a live model.

In the Louis XIII Room, an extraordinary fresco was uncovered under layers upon layers of paint. You gaze upon the hero Bellerophon and his magnificent Pegasus, which was slowly and precisely uncovered with a sharp scalpel before painters and restorers brought the scene back to life.

The Salon Bleu is a symbol of the Grimaldi family’s alliance with the Matignon family from 1715, when Louise Hippolyte of Monaco married Jacques IV de Goyon-Matignon. Here, you see portraits of princely children in the 18th century before gazing upon priceless works of art in ornate frames. These walls are full of masterpieces that the Grimaldis have collected over several centuries.

YOUR FINAL STOP: THE VALENTINOIS ROOM

At the end of the building, your tour is almost complete as you come to the Valentinois room. It overlooks the private gardens of the princely family. You see a wealth of priceless furniture, including a Louis XV chest of drawers, a small secretary from the Louis XVI period and a cylinder secretary desk from the Louis XVI period. This 18th century room pays homage to the Duchy of Valentinois, one of the many hereditary titles of nobility claimed by the Prince of Monaco.

In the centre of the room, a table is set with Regency-style silver, made by Parisian goldsmith Odiot. The plates, cutlery and glasses bear the princely coat of arms. On the main wall are two eye-catching 18th century portraits by Marie-Anne Loir. Four paintings on the right wall were originally collected by the princes of Monaco in the 18th century before being sold. They were bought back by Prince Albert II, who has always had a passion for preserving his family’s heritage.

With your head full of history and your heart feeling inspired by witnessing the newly restored frescoes, your tour of the Princely Palace of Monaco has come to an end.

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