Out & About with Kids #61, Autumn 2020 by Out & About with kids

AUTUMN 2020

BUSHFIRE REGIONS THAT WANT YOU BACK BEST ROAD TRIPS FOR FAMILIES WHALE WATCHING HOTSPOTS

with kids AUSTRALIA SPECIAL Plan your post-coronavirus getaway!

Issue 61 • RRP $7.95 61 9 771832 331006 >

NEW ZEALAND • GOLD COAST • JAPAN • WHITSUNDAYS • ABU DHABI • THAILAND • FIJI KIAMA • FINLAND • BYRON BAY • EDINBURGH • SWEDEN • HONG KONG

contents UPFRONT 6 Reader Instagram photos

Our readers share their travel adventures

7 Editor’s letter 8 Moments

Whitehaven Beach

10 What’s new

The latest attractions, accommodation, tours and more

28 Hit the slopes

The top family resorts for a snow holiday in Australia and New Zealand

Riviera Ice-Cream Parlour in East Gippsland

AUSTRALIA 34 Bouncing back

Dean Koorey reveals why winter is the best time to head to the NSW south coast

66 Gold Coast getaway

52 All the right elements

68 Adventure mountain

56 Whale of a time

72 Tiny houses, big adventure

Coronet Peak in New Zealand

64 Kiama’s best kept secret

48 Best family driving holidays Down Under

Towns and regions impacted by bushfires have plenty to entice families

Lee Atkinson reveals the best places in the country for a road trip with kids

Angela Saurine checks into the Elements of Byron resort on the NSW north coast

Where to spot the gentle giants

Kara Geyer and her family make the most of a three-day mini break

Head to Mount Tamborine for fun-filled action

Meg Law checks out ecofriendly tiny houses

Image: Tourism Australia

Kangaroo Island is a great destination for a driving holiday

86 Robinson Crusoe Island in Fiji

WORLD 75 Five awesome experiences in Hoshino Resorts Tomamu

86 Ten fun things to do in Fiji

78 Multigenerational Japan jaunt

92 Ride the rails (and save the planet!)

This Japan resort has epic powder and plenty of other offerings

Grant Jones crafts an itinerary to suit the whole family

Why journeying by train is a great way to see Europe with kids

94 Boy wizard wanderings

83 Lapland winter wonderland

97 Plan A

Intrepid Travelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dyan McKie takes her daughter on a trip to Thailand

Elisa Elwin reveals why families should visit Finnish Lapland

100 Celebrity Q&A

Brian Crisp and his family follow the Harry Potter path in Edinburgh

Flip Byrnes finds something new to do on every Abu Dhabi stopover

Tour de France champion Cadel Evansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favourite travel experiences

102 Reviews

Awesome experiences for your Fiji bucket list

80 Things I learned travelling with my five-year-old

EXTRAS

The OAWK team reviews Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Lapland Guest House and Courtyard by Marriott Stockholm Kungsholmen

108 How to pack for a road trip with kids

Robin Esrock shares his tips from a 20,000km road trip around Australia

112 Must haves

The latest products travelling families need to know about

114 Insider interview

Narelle Riley from P&O Cruises loves creating new memories on holidays 5

READER INSTAGRAM PICS Our readers have shared some awesome photos of their adventures around the globe on social media. Tag your family holiday snaps #oawk for the chance to see them republished here. 1. @theselgassomewhere Changi Airport, Singapore 2. @michellemadue MÄ kua Beach, Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i 3. @andrea_expatosaurus Newcastle Museum, NSW 4. @adventuremumma Kayaking at Babinda Creek in Tropical North Queensland 5. @littlegreenduck Milford Sound, New Zealand

3 6

EDITOR’S LETTER Well, what a start to the year it’s been, especially for those of us who love to travel. First, many of our summer holidays were thrown into disarray by widespread bushfires that had a devastating impact on some of Australia’s favourite family holiday playgrounds. Then came the coronavirus pandemic, which has effectively put a halt to all non-essential travel, first overseas and now domestically. I don’t know about you, but, being told I’m not allowed to go anywhere has given me a burning desire to do just that … as soon as it is safe to do so. Forget the bucket list, I’ve started a post-corona list of things I want to do, and places I want to visit when all this is over. I’m sure we are all disappointed to have had to cancel upcoming trips we (and our kids!) were looking forward to, however, dreaming of visiting those places down the track will help get us through. And when we do start travelling again, we will appreciate our holidays more than ever. The unprecedented restrictions have also made me realise how lucky we are to live in a time where travel is (usually!) so accessible. I grew up listening to my nan’s stories about eating chokos during the Great Depression to survive; children today have often been overseas several times before they even start school. If we want to look on the bright side, this sense of gratitude has to be good for us, no? Editing a travel magazine at such a time has been an interesting experience. With things changing on a daily (and sometimes hourly) basis, we have had to work quickly to adapt this issue. As events began being cancelled left, right and centre, we decided to replace our what’s on section with a story about Australia’s best family-friendly road trips. We figure it’s the type of holiday most attractive to Aussie families right now, especially those keen to visit bushfire-impacted areas, which are going to need our help more than ever. You can also read about these in our bushfire recovery feature starting on page 34. At a challenging time for the travel industry, I’d particularly like to thank our advertisers for their support. Without them it wouldn’t be possible to bring this much-loved magazine to you. The Out & About with Kids team loves inspiring Australian families to get away and bond while on holidays. As usual, we are enormously proud of the features in this issue – from Meg Law’s story about staying in tiny houses to our interview with Tour de France champ Cadel Evans’ about his favourite family holiday experiences. The next best thing to travelling is reading about it, and we believe there are plenty of great ideas for your own post-corona travel list in these pages. In the meantime, stay healthy and let’s all hope things return to normal ASAP! Angela Saurine, editor

Angela and her son Oliver toboganning at Corin Forest last winter

with kids Out & About with Kids Print & Digital outandaboutwithkids. com.au Publisher Elisa Elwin elisa@oawk.com.au +61 413 770 550 Editor Angela Saurine angela.saurine@ oawk.com.au Advertising Enquiries: advertising@oawk. com.au

Art Director Jon Wolfgang MIller Print Spotpress +61 430 060 700 Published by Elwin Media Pty Ltd ABN: 22 159 093 606 PO Box 4148, Balgowlah Heights, NSW 2093 Cover image Children feeding a kangaroo at Cleland Wildlife Park in the Adelaide Hills. Image: Adam Bruzzone-South Australian Tourism Commission

Copyright © Out & About with Kids 2019 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission isstrictly prohibited. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Out & About with Kids cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such items are sent to the magazine they will be returned. Disclaimer The opinions expressed in the editorials are those of the writers and do not necessarily refl ect the views of the Publisher and Out & About with Kids. Information provided was believed to be correct at the time of publication.

Moments

WHITEHAVEN BEACH Debate over the world’s best beach is unlikely to go away anytime soon, but one stretch of sand that consistently ranks on lists compiled throughout the globe is Whitehaven Beach. Located in the heart of Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef, the beach stretches for seven kilometres and is lapped by swirls of turquoise, blue and green water. The sand is 98 per cent pure white silica, meaning it is extremely fine and soft, with some comparing the consistency to that of baby powder. Because of the silica, the sand doesn’t retain heat, making it a wonderful place to walk barefoot, even on a hot day. The beach is accessible on day tours by boat from Airlie Beach, Shute Harbour and nearby island resorts, such as Hamilton Island, Daydream Island and Hayman Island. You can admire its beauty from above by taking a scenic flight over the beach and Hill Inlet, a stunning cove at the northern end of the beach where the tide shifts the sand and water to create a swirling fusion of colours. You can also climb to the lookout at Tongue Point at low tide. Visitors can find out more about Whitehaven Beach and other highlights of the region and book tours at the new Whitsundays Visitor Information Centre at Whitsunday Gold Coffee Plantation near Proserpine. 8

ATTRACTIONS

WHAT’S New THEME PARK OPENING IN LONDON! An exciting new theme park is set to open in London in 2024. Stretching across more than 200ha, The London Resort will be the first European development of its kind to be built from scratch since the opening of Disneyland Paris in 1992. With six lands featuring innovative and interactive technologies and experiences, entry will be via a grand plaza that leads visitors and hotel guests through ‘The High St’, lined with shops, restaurants, hotels, a convention centre and a waterpark. Visitors can start their journey in The Studios – a gritty, modern-day warehouse district filled with big, blockbuster features. The Woods will be an enchanted realm where springtime reigns eternal and the boundary between reality and fantasy dissolves. Here, the young and

young-at-heart will be invited to step through the pages of a storybook and embark on adventures that put a fresh spin on beloved bedtime stories, fables and fairytales. From The Woods, the journey continues through the ages into The Kingdom, an immersive realm of swords, sorcery, dragons and legend. This is England as a dark and ancient land, a place of threatening and imposing castles and mystical Arthurian legends. The Isles will be a land of giant creatures, mythical beasts and adventures at the crossroads of imagination and reality, where jaw-dropping architecture will

combine with 21st century rides. In The Jungle, ancient ruins of a mysterious long-lost Mesoamerican civilisation, with surprising discoveries and strange mystical artefacts, will be seen pushing up through treetops. The final land, dedicated to futuristic experiences, alien encounters and big thrill rides, The Starport, will be a bustling 23rd century landing zone that will launch visitors into thrilling science-fiction adventures. Around 70 per cent of the theme park’s attractions are expected to be undercover. Its developer has partnered with EDF Energy to make The London Resort the most sustainable major theme park in the world, with a goal of zero net emissions. The second stage will open in 2029. londonresort.info

An artist impression of the castle at The London Resort

ATTRACTIONS

BUNDLE OF FUN AT BOONDALL

Boondall Wetlands in Queensland has opened a new environment centre. Run by Brisbane City Council, the $6.5 million interactive education centre features the latest in technology, with interactive activities like the Great Migration Challenge, where visitors can learn about shorebirds in the area by flapping their arms in front of a motion sensor display, taking on the role of a migratory bird navigating its way from Asia. Other new activities include a sensory wall with buttons visitors can press to experience smells from the wetlands, a synthetic mud display that gives kids the chance to get their hands into the mud and learn about what does and doesn’t belong in the mangroves, and an interactive display that is accessible for all abilities, which allows visitors to spin hand pedals to appreciate the energy requirements of migratory birds. Outside, the centre also offers bushwalks, bike trails, Aboriginal art trails and picnic areas, or you can jump on kayaks and canoes from boat ramps close to the centre to explore the creeks and Moreton Bay. Brisbane.qld.gov.au

WA WATER WONDERLAND

There is a new water adventure playground for the whole family on Rottnest Island, off the coast of Perth. Aquaplay, in North Thomson Bay, has introduced a range of activities, including guided one-hour sea-bike tours, pedal-board and stand-up paddleboard hire and a Kids’ Zone with a giant inflatable roller. Tours leave from next to the main jetty and can be booked at the visitor centre or via Aquaplay Rottnest’s website. aquaplayrottnest.com.au

Children on the boardwalk at Boondall Wetlands Environment Centre

DC HEROES IN SOHO

The first fully immersive DC-inspired theatrical dining experience in the world will open in London’s Soho later this year. Described as ‘a gastronomic amusement park’, Park Row will be made up of five restaurants and bars inspired by timeless stories and iconic DC characters, including Batman, The Joker, Harley Quinn, Wonder Woman, Superman and The Penguin. The attraction will bring the spirit of Gotham City to life through contemporary, playful dishes, dramatic dining and stunning décor. It will be set within an art deco dining room. After descending into the Batcave, guests emerge in the relaxed and elegant Pennyworth’s, named after

Bruce Wayne’s butler, Alfred, where they can choose from historicallyinspired British dishes. Or head to The Penguin’s opulent Iceberg Lounge – a large, stylish restaurant and bar with an international menu and live entertainment. For top counter dining, check out a Harley Quinn-inspired fun and playful omakase, whilst hidden away from the buzz of the main room lies Old Gotham City, a speakeasy offering cocktails alongside sharing plates. parkrowlondon.co.uk 11

ATTRACTIONS

GET SPORTY AT MCG MUSUEM

Kids on the unofficial Sydney 2000 Olympics mascot Fatso the wombat at the Australian Sports Museum

The Australian Sports Museum at the Melbourne Cricket Ground has reopened following a $17 million makeover. Formerly known as The National Sports Museum, the attraction is home to the country’s largest collection of sporting memorabilia. With a focus on cutting edge technology and immersive experiences, the museum brings the stories of Australian sport to life in a fun and playful way, encouraging visitors to be a part of the action as they explore all facets of Australian sporting culture. From touch screens and avatars to climbable objects and sporting challenges, visitors can explore, play and discover their way through the Olympics, Australian football, cricket, horse racing and more, uncovering how grassroots and elite sport shapes Australian lives and our national identity. One of the highlights is a life-sized 3D hologram of dual AFL premiership and Richmond star, Bachar Houli, who talks candidly about the emotions of first being drafted through to Richmond’s 2017 fairytale flag. australiansportsmuseum.org.au

Geelong’s first children’s museum, MoPA: Museum of Play and Art, has opened in the historic Wintergarden Building. The play-based-learning exhibits and experiences were inspired by the world’s best children’s museums and designed, engineered and crafted by experts from around Australia. Soft Play is designed to support the development of a toddler’s fine-motor skills, whilst also incorporating creative block assembly and identity-building sculpture. Sunset City, for bigger kids, rewards little climbers with an impressive view over the museum, while the Zoom Room is filled with LEGO® that children can build with and

race down giant ramps and jumps. The MoPA Art Car allows children to layer their creation on a real VW bug, challenging young artists to consider just how unusual a canvas can be. The museum also has a café, feeding and change facilities, disabled access, pram parking and low-sensory spaces and will hold special events, community activations and special needs days. To ensure every visitor’s experience is comfortable for everyone, entry numbers are limited, and visitors are advised to book in advance on MoPA’s website, where they can choose to arrive in the morning, at midday or during the afternoon. museumofplayandart.com. au

Image: Melissa Lau

VICTORIA WELCOMES CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

Image: Michael Haluwana-Aeroture

ATTRACTIONS

See the skeleton of a blue whale at WA Museum

WHALE SKELETON IN WA

A 24m-long blue whale skeleton will be one of the main drawcards of the new-look WA Museum, scheduled to open in November. The new display will be suspended in a dynamic ‘lunge-feeding’ pose, which is the first time in the world a blue whale – the largest animals to have lived on Earth – has been displayed in such a dynamic way. Located in the Perth Cultural Centre, the heritage-listed building will include eight major galleries, a 1,000sq metre special exhibition gallery, a café, and learning studios for people of all ages. The voices of Western Australians, in particular those of Indigenous people, will be shared throughout the museum. To celebrate the opening, visitors will receive free entry for the first 18 months. museum.wa.gov.au/newmuseum

MAGIC OF FILM

The Australian Centre of Moving Images (ACMI) in Melbourne is set to reopen mid-year after undergoing a major renovation. Visitors entering from Federation Square plaza will be welcomed by a light-filled foyer that opens to a staircase leading up to the cinemas. The new moving image exhibition will celebrate everything from the earliest days of film to mixed reality and beyond. One of the key attractions will be a tribute to the Australian road movie – a car that is half Mad Max Interceptor and half Bush Mechanics ingenuity. Visitors can also create their own soundtrack and sound effects in the Foley room, and see how films are conserved in the Media Preservation Lab. The Gandel Digital Future Labs is designed to increase digital literacy in a time of fake news, and equip the, with handson learning experiences. acmi.net.au

An artist impression of the Foley Room at ACMI

ATTRACTIONS

Image: Ben Beaden

See Sumatran elephants at Australia Zoo

ELEPHANTS ARRIVE AT AUSTRALIA ZOO

Visitors to Australia Zoo on the Sunshine Coast will soon be able to see four critically endangered female Sumatran elephants. Christina, Megawati, Widya, and Raflesia are expected to be on display in their world-class Elephantasia, which has a huge pool, fountain, plethora of plants, trees and grassland, by mid-year. In the last 25 years, more than 70 per cent of Sumatran elephant habitat has been lost, leading to less than 2,500 of the mammals remaining in the wild. Australia Zoo has been supporting wild Sumatran elephant conservation for more than a decade, including working with other organisations to build an elephant hospital at the Elephant Conservation Centre in their homeland, one of the islands of west Indonesia. The centre has also received support from the zoo in the form of a clean water supply for the staff and elephants, as well as a refurbishment of the staff living quarters. australiazoo.com.au

BIG CHANGES AT THE BIG PINEAPPLE

An artist impression of how the Big Pineapple will look

Iconic Aussie attraction The Big Pineapple is set to undergo a major redevelopment, with plans for accommodation, a winery and expansion of its zoo, following the opening of the TreeTops high ropes course last year. When complete, the Sunshine Coast attraction will feature six precincts with drawcards such as mountain biking tracks, a wellness centre, cabins and a camping area. The redevelopment will be rolled out in four stages, ending in 2024. bigpineapple.com.au

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

COME TO CAM RANH

An exciting family-friendly resort – Alma – has opened on Vietnam’s emerging Cam Ranh peninsula. Located at Long Beach, around 300km north-east of Ho Chi Minh City, Alma Resort has 12 pools cascading down to the beach, a waterpark, an 18hole mini golf course, water sports centre, a youth centre with virtual reality games, a science museum, a 70-seat cinema and, of course, a kids’ club. There are 580 suites and pavilions with water views stretching across the 30ha property, including contemporary three-bedroom oceanfront pavilions with a living room, kitchen, four bathrooms and a private pool. The resort boasts restaurants helmed by top chefs, and a food court offering an array of local and international cuisine, as well as a classical bar, pool bar and beach bar. There’s also a spa with 13 treatment rooms, an amphitheatre, art gallery, gym and yoga room, plus a mini supermarket. PreferredHotels.com

Alma has 12 pools

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

Enjoy a massage at BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort

UNWIND IN THE WHITSUNDAYS It’s already a winner with the kids, now BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort is offering more to entice mum and dad as well. Guests can slip into holiday mode with professional massage therapists from locally-owned Intuitive Massage, with treatments performed in the Airlie Beach resort’s poolside massage hut, in cabin, or in the neighbouring salon. Treatments include remedial, relaxation, deep tissue and pregnancy massages, with gift vouchers available for that special surprise (think Mother’s Day).

Set amongst lush landscaped grounds, the resort caters for a variety of budgets and tastes with a range of accommodation options, from camping and caravanning sites to designerdecorated three-bedroom condos. The resort also has a large waterslide park, lagoon-style pool, outdoor cinema, giant jumping pillows, pedal karts, a fullsize tennis court, mini-golf, adventure playground, basketball, volleyball, badminton, bocce and table tennis. “We have always said that mum

and dad, as well as grandparents, can enjoy a truly relaxing holiday here given our offerings, which do a wonderful job of keeping the whole family fully entertained,” marketing manager Tanya Cran says. “While we pride ourselves on being a completely unique holiday destination where families can come together and connect, these new massage services provide the option to take some time out to relax, rejuvenate and refresh the mind, body and soul.” adventurewhitsunday.com.au

Happy Kids = Happy Parents!

Over 15 onsite activities

• • • • • • •

Kids Club & Toddler Time Heated Pool and 13 Slide Waterpark Daily Activity Schedule Outdoor Cinema Animal Park Luxury Cabins Landscaped Powered Sites

Big, huge, mega waterslide park

Self contained cabins

STRALIAN AU

Ph: 1300 640 587 or + 61 (7) 4948 5400 ext 1 Email: reservations@adventurewhitsunday.com.au Airlie Beach - Whitsundays - Queensland

adventurewhitsunday.com.au #adventurewhitsunday

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

NAUTICAL-THEMED THAI RESORT Marine-minded families will love the new nautical-themed resort which has opened on Koh Samui’s north coast in Thailand. The design has been woven into the DNA of Meliá Koh Samui, including the Level Lounge, which is shaped like a boat’s hull. Located on Choeng Mon Beach, just 15 minutes’ from Samui International Airport, the resort has 159 rooms and 41 suites as well as two pools, including a large lagoon pool that loops like a river through the resort’s tropical gardens. Many of the ground floor Pool Access rooms and suites allow guests to slip directly into the pool from their private terrace. The spacious Family

Pool Access rooms at Melia Koh Samui

Rooms include a master bedroom for parents and in-room games for the kids. Guests seeking extra space and exclusive services can stay in suites with access to the executive lounge. The Level Boat Suites are inspired by traditional Thai vessels and pay homage to Koh Samui’s historic position as a safe haven for sailors and sea traders. The resort has two restaurants, a stylish beach club and a swimup bar, plus the YHI Spa, a fitness centre, kids’ club, outdoor playground and a mini waterpark. Melia Koh Samui also houses the Gallery, a not-for-profit social enterprise of art and design gift shops under the aegis of the Asset

World Foundation for Charity, which embraces socially responsible practices to contribute to society and communities. All the shop’s profits contribute to further artistic endeavours, as well as preserving and promoting local culture and areas in need. Meliá Hotels International was recently named the most sustainable hotel company in the world by the SAM’s Corporate Sustainability Assessment. It plans to open at least two more hotels in Thailand, including INNSiDE by Meliá Bangkok Sukhumvit and Meliá Chiang Mai, in partnership with Asset World Corporation. Meliáhotelsinternational.com

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

An artist impression of one of the updated rooms at Kaanapali Beach Hotel

HAWAIIAN HOTEL REVAMP Family favourite, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel in Hawai‘i, is set to undergo a multi-million dollar transformation. The Kealaula project will include a significant redesign of the 180-room Kaua‘i Wing, and a refresh of the courtyard, including more native Hawaiian plants and a new oceanfront restaurant. All rooms within the Kaua‘i wing will be upgraded and infused with new and modern design elements and features, while still retaining a strong sense of Hawaiian culture. Each room will feature employee-made Makamae shadow boxes including mākau (fishhooks), lūhe‘e (octopus lure), lei kūpe‘e (nerite lei), lei pipipi (nerite lei) and mea kaua (weapons). The new noshery, Huihui, will be themed around the accomplishment of Hawaiian wayfinding and will include a space to

house the hotel’s Hawaiian paddling and sailing canoes. Originally built in 1964, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel is set on a 5km stretch of beach along the western shores of Maui and has 432 guest rooms and a large courtyard filled with tropical gardens. Cultural classes range from kukui nut bracelet making and complimentary ‘ukulele lessons to ‘ōlelo Hawaiian language classes and weaving. Hale Huaka‘i, the hotel’s ocean activities centre, offers activities such as canoe paddling, stand-up paddleboarding, snorkelling and conch shell blowing. The work is slated to be finished in late 2020, with the Lanai, Maui and Molokai wings still open for guests during construction, as well as dining outlets Tiki Terrace, Tiki Bar & Grill and the Grab N Go. kbhmaui.com

SENSATIONAL SPACE CAMP

Families can learn about the solar system during a stay at a new space camp in Alice Springs. Adding to Earth Sanctuary’s already popular eco and astronomy tours, the camp will feature six intergalactic-style domes. Earth Sanctuary runs a range of astronomy tours that operate five times a week and seven days a week during school holidays, providing a great opportunity for families to witness the beauty of the night sky in the Northern Territory’s outback. Guests can also enjoy the Spirit of the Outback BBQ Dinner and Show. earth-sanctuary.com.au

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

PARADISE RESORT RELAUNCH It’s been a family favourite since it opened in 1981, and Paradise Resort Gold Coast is set to enter a new era with new owner Dr Jerry Schwartz at the helm. Australia’s largest private hotel investor, the longhaired BRW rich-lister is known in the industry as Australia’s own Willy Wonka. Whilst we may be in uncertain times, Dr Schwartz is in for the long-haul, and is urging families to look to book a holiday at the 360-room Surfers Paradise hotel when the time is right. A father of three young children himself, the businessman has introduced a range of family-friendly

An aerial view of Paradise Resort

attractions to other hotels he has bought, from large playgrounds and merry-gorounds to toy trains (often with him driving!), and is set to put his own stamp on the property. Dr Schwartz says it’s important that Paradise Resort has a renewed vision, as premium family resorts in such prime locations are rare. “Paradise Resort has accommodated families from all over Australia and overseas for four decades, providing one of the most enjoyable holiday experiences imaginable,” he says. “With all the emphasis on encouraging

Australians to holiday in Australia, Paradise Resort is set to play an even more important role in future months. It would have been a terrible loss for Gold Coast and Queensland tourism if the original plans to bulldoze the resort had gone ahead.” Set on a 2ha property close to beaches and attractions, Paradise Resort offers a range of accommodation options, including the popular themed Junior and King Bunkhouse rooms which feature brightly painted bunk beds and gaming consoles for the kids. The central resort

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

The water park at Paradise Resort

A Junior Bunkhouse room

The Zone 4 Kids outdoor playground

area has a giant lagoon pool, large heated spa and two enormous Zone for Kids (Z4K) waterpark attractions. The Zone for Kids Club is a fully supervised kids’ club offering separate play spaces, ensuring age appropriate care and activities for children aged up to 12. It has nine themed play spaces providing an extensive range of activities, including a subterranean play centre and maze, pedal cars, and a movie room. The resort is also the only one in the Southern Hemisphere that has a permanent ice-skating rink onsite, PLANET CHILL. Paradise Resort is the Schwartz Family Company’s second hotel on the Gold Coast, following the acquisition of Hilton Surfers Paradise in 2019. The company now owns 15 hotels in four Australian states and territories. Dr Schwartz, who rarely wears a suit, is also a cosmetic surgeon, passionate environmentalist and a philanthropist through his organisation, the Schwartz Foundation, which supports charities such as Stewart House, Royal Far West and the Victor Chang Cardiac Research Institute. He has performed oculoplastic surgery in Mongolia and India, established clinics in East Timor and acted as the ‘ride doctor’ on charity cycle trips. paradiseresort.com.au 21

HOTELS, RESORTS & HOLIDAY PARKS

GLIMPSES OF WARNER BROS. MOVIEWORLD AND THE HINTERLAND CAN BE SEEN FROM THE PEAK The tallest water park at an Australian holiday park has opened in Queensland! The new drawcard at BIG4 Gold Coast Holiday Park boasts a host of waterslides with a combined length of 317m, including towering slides measuring up to 10m tall. Glimpses of nearby Warner Bros. Movie World and the hinterlands of the Gold Coast can even be seen from the peak. With an emphasis on all-ages fun, the epic water park has zones for smaller children alongside ample seating and shaded areas for parents. BIG4 Gold Coast Holiday Park owner, Norton Whitmont, says the new attraction should appeal to guests who want more than high-quality selfcontained accommodation. “They are seeking an experience that is exciting, memorable, and affordable, which also comes with photo opportunities and ‘bragging rights’,” he says. The holiday park is located across the road from Movie World and Wet’n’Wild, theme parks, as well as dinner show Outback Spectacular. It’s also just two minutes’ drive from Dreamworld and Whitewater World. Accommodation options range from caravan and camping sites to motel-style and dog-friendly studios, two-bedroom cabins that sleep up to six, and three-bedroom cabins that sleep up to ten. There is a resort-style pool, a spa, cabanas, a giant jumping pillow, petting zoo and a restaurant, and plenty to keep the kids entertained, with outdoor movie nights, a bike track and a huge grassed area for kicking a ball around or playing games. Situated on the banks of the Salt Water Creek, guests can also get back to nature as they follow the waterway downstream and try to spot kangaroos, lorikeets and koalas. Laze away the afternoon basking on the banks of the billabong, or dangle a fishing line in to try to catch a mullet or bream to cook up on the BBQ for dinner. goldcoastholidaypark.com.au

EXPERIENCES Fun times at the Adventure Club at MarBella Elix

ADVENTURES WITH THE GODS

Kids will be able to immerse themselves in heroic tales of Greek gods, goddesses and legends with a new partnership between two Greek resorts and London’s prestigious Exploration Society. Kids aged eight to 11 will learn about mythical creatures and deities whilst taking part in outdoor activities such as orienteering, horse riding, treasure hunts and water park excursions at the Adventure Club at MarBella Elix throughout July and August. The MarBella Corfu Adventure Club, meanwhile, is available for those aged 12 to 15-years-old. explorationsociety.co.uk/marbella

GO WILD WITH BEAR GRYLLS

Children can learn to commando crawl, tie knots and pick wild food at the new Bear Grylls Survival Academy at Sani Resort in Greece. Launched in partnership with the reality TV outdoor adventurer, the academy is suitable for guests aged six and older who want to learn Grylls’ famed survival techniques. There will be lessons on camouflage, concealment, navigation and raft building, as well as evening classes in fire lighting, spear making, setting up camp on the beach and rib boat rescue. The courses have been designed by the star himself and are delivered by a hand-picked team of instructors, taking advantage of the 400ha ecological reserve which surrounds Sani Resort. saniresort.gr 24

WHALE SWIM CONTINUES

It’s official! After a successful four-year trial, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef on Western Australia’s Coral Coast is set to become the first licensed destination in the state to swim with humpback whales. During the trial period, more than 900 in-water interaction tours were conducted with about 9,500 people. The season will begin in Coral Bay in July and Exmouth in August, running through until the end of October 2020. During this time, a management program will be put in place, with licences to be allocated for commercial in-water humpback interaction tours starting from 2021. Ningaloo Reef is one of the only places in Australia where people can swim with these ocean giants. Tours to swim with whale sharks, which grow between six and 11m in length, also begin in March and typically run until August. australiascoralcoast.com/region/ningaloo

TOURS

LONELY PLANET EXPERIENCES Fans of Lonely Planet guidebooks can now take part in a range of authentic, immersive and sustainable experiences the company is offering in conjunction with Intrepid Travel. They include 200 trips operated by Intrepid Travel’s day tour company, Urban Adventures, which are suitable for families with teens, plus more than 130 multi-day tours including walking, cycling, food, festivals, family and marine adventures. The tours will run across 65 countries and range from two hours to 22 days in length, including a

See the pyramids of Giza in Europe with Lonely Planet Experiences

tour of Tokyo highlighting the city’s famous fish markets, a seven-day Galapagos Islands adventure, and a 15-day tour of Egypt. Lonely Planet Experiences have been designed to have a low environmental footprint and a positive impact on local communities. All tours will be in small groups, with a maximum of 16 travellers, and led by a local leader. They will also use local transportation, support locally owned-businesses and will be 100 per cent carbon-neutral. Participants

will receive exclusive discounts on Lonely Planet’s guidebooks, free access to Lonely Planet’s flagship Guides app, plus additional Lonely Planet insight throughout the tours. “For over four decades, travellers have looked to Lonely Planet for trusted travel advice,” Lonely Planet CEO Luis Cabrera says. “Now, global explorers looking for the inside track can journey along with us on this new range of tours. This is an exciting innovation and evolution for the Lonely Planet brand.” lonelyplanet.com/experiences

THE EXPERIENCES HAVE BEEN DESIGNED TO HAVE A LOW FOOTPRINT

SUSTAINABILITY

Image: Getty Images

PULLING THE PLUG ON PLASTIC

Global hotel group Accor has vowed to remove all single-use plastic items from guest use by the end of 2022 in a bid to reduce waste and pollution. As well as its previous promise to eliminate all plastic straws, stirrers and cotton buds, the new commitment includes removing individual plastic toiletry amenities and cups by the end of 2020 across its brands, including Novotel, Swissotel, Peppers, Ibis and Pullman. The group will also eliminate all remaining singleuse plastic items in guestrooms, meeting areas, restaurants and leisure activities areas, such as spas and gyms, by the end of 2022. Single-use plastics are defined as disposable items that are used once and then thrown away, like plastic cups, plastic bags for laundry or extra pillows, water bottles, take-away dishes and keycards. Relevant alternatives will be proposed for each item. Many moves have already been made by the company to improve its environmental footprint. Fairmont Hotels, for example, has installed water filtration taps in guestrooms in place of bottled water. Accor’s new brand, Greet, has no disposable plastic at breakfast, with reusable dishes used for butter and jam instead. The Global Tourism Plastics Initiative, led by the UN Environment Programme and the World Tourism Organisation in collaboration with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, draws a line in the sand in the fight against plastic waste and pollution. “Plastic pollution is one of the major environmental challenges of our time, and tourism has an important role to play in contributing to the solution,” UN Environment Programme Economy Division Director Ligia Noronha says. “Through the Global Tourism Plastics Initiative, tourism companies and destinations are supported to innovate, eliminate, and circulate the way they use plastics, to advance circularity in our economies and reduce plastics pollution globally.” group.accor.com

PLASTIC POLLUTION IS ONE OF THE MAJOR ENVIRONMENTAL CHALLENGES OF OUR TIME

Accor is banning single-use plastics

Image: G Adventures

GIVING BACK

G ADVENTURES’ PROJECT 100 PLAN

A chameleon enjoying the plantlife in Madagascar

Image: Abercrombie and Kent

Community tourism pioneer G Adventures and its non-profit partner, Planeterra, have revealed the first projects in the Project 100 initiative, which is a commitment to have 100 projects built into the company’s tours by the end of 2020. The new projects have a strong focus on people as well as the environment. They include giving travellers the chance to plant trees in an area that has been heavily impacted by deforestation in Madagascar and learn about fishing, farming and cooking during a homestay in Borneo. “It’s our goal for 90 per cent of G Adventures’ small-group trips to visit a community tourism project that supports women and children, and Indigenous culture,” G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip says. “Now more than ever we’re also looking at projects that empower local communities to protect their local environment at the same time.” gadventures.com/about-us/ responsible-travel

Making banana treats in Laos

BANANA LEAVES FOR LAOS

Luxury and adventure travel company Abercrombie & Kent is helping street kids in Laos by providing them with hospitality training. Its charity arm, Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy (AKP), will work with social enterprise Friends-International in the UNESCO World Heritagelisted city of Luang Prabang. AKP is supporting the Friends Futures Program, which provides restaurant training and helps put trainees in jobs. Khaiphaen Restaurant is one of the eateries taking part, and A&K guests visiting the city are encouraged to stop by and get involved in the new ‘Banana Leaves for Laos’ activity. After meeting restaurant manager, Anousin, a former trainee, and hearing about the program and the positive impact it has on vulnerable young people, guests join the chef in preparing traditional Laos rice treats. Wrapped in banana leaves, these sweets can be offered to monks during the daily alms-giving ritual. The experience culminates in a traditional lunch at the restaurant. A&K has been involved in conservation and sustainable tourism since its inception, and now works with partner communities on more than 40 projects in 20 countries across education, health care, conservation and enterprise development. abercrombiekent.com.au 27

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

A family in the snow at Perisher

E H T hit ANGELA SAURINE gives the lowdown on the top family-friendly resorts in Australia and New Zealand

S E P SLO

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

THREDBO LEISURE CENTRE HAS A POOL, GYM AND SQUASH COURTS, DAY SPA AND A MUSEUM

An artist impression of the new gondola launching at Thredbo this season

Children lined up ready to learn to ski in Thredbo

AUSTRALIA PERISHER, NSW

Australia’s largest ski resort, with 47 lifts across 1245ha, Perisher is around five to six hours’ drive south from Sydney, and six hours from Melbourne. It’s made up of four resort areas – Perisher Valley, Smiggin Holes, Blue Cow and Guthega. Smiggins is ideal for beginners and families, while Perisher Valley has beginner to advanced runs, as well as terrain parks, a half-pipe, night skiing and evening fireworks shows. You can ski or snowboard, and catch the Skitube alpine railway to Blue Cow, which has a large bistro with an outdoor deck and some super fun runs the kids will love, such as the aptly named Rollercoaster. Locals’ favourite, Guthega, also has pleasant intermediate and advanced runs, and beautiful views. Children as young as three can do ski and

snowboard lessons as part of the Discovery Kids program. Stay on snow in ski-in, skiout hotels or lodges at the resort, or save money by staying in the gateway town of Jindabyne, 30km away. The family-friendly resort The Station, which is owned by the same company, has a Kids Stay Free offer for children under 14 who are accompanied by two adults in June and September. They can also eat free when you buy two adult meals. perisher.com.au

THREDBO, NSW

It’s an exciting year for Thredbo, which will welcome Australia’s only alpine gondola this season! That’s right – the Merritts double chairlift is being replaced with the type of high speed, eight-person gondola found in the US, Canada and Europe. It will span over 1.3km and quadruple the capacity of the

previous lift. Around a six-hour drive from Sydney, Thredbo is known for its village vibe, with an abundance of restaurants, cafes and bars, fireworks shows, and fire pits dotted throughout. The 480ha resort has 14 lifts, and claims the longest runs in the country. It also offers night skiing on Thursday nights. There’s plenty of family-friendly accommodation, including self-contained apartments, B&Bs, lodges, hotels and chalets, with a free shuttle bus linking them. The beginner’s area, Friday Flat, is a great place to learn to ski, with snowboard lessons offered for children aged from five, while Thredbo Leisure Centre has a pool, a gym, squash courts, day spa and a museum. Kids ski free in June and September, and there is also a Kids Snow Festival from September 21 until October 3, with a kids’ flare run, movie nights, face painting and more. Long-term, there are also plans for a major revamp to the kids snowsport school, Thredboland, for winter 2022, with construction to begin after this season. thredbo.com.au  29

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

Enjoy a husky ride at Mt Baw Baw

Kids snowboarding at Falls Creek

CHARLOTTE PASS, NSW

The only completely on-snow resort in NSW, this small resort is particularly popular with families. Accessible by Oversnow Transport, it is the highest snow resort in Australia, with five lifts and a dozen hotels and lodges. While most are members’ only, Stillwell Lodge is a commercial lodge with a restaurant and bar, while Southern Alps Lodge and Pygmy Possum Lodge offer self-catering accommodation. The grand Kosciuszko Chalet Hotel, built in 1930, has a restaurant, bistro, cocktail lounge and bar, with bingo and trivia nights, plus Frosty’s Chill Out Zone with activities and games for children aged three to 13-years-old. The Winter Festival, held in August, is a great time to visit, with a flare run, outdoor ice bar, daily barbecue out the front of the chalet, live music and fireworks. charlottepass.com.au

SELWYN, NSW

Sadly, Selwyn will be closed in 2020 while it rebuilds, after suffering extensive damage in bushfires earlier this year. 2020 Season Pass holders can transfer their pass to Charlotte Pass, or receive a refund. For those who want to plan ahead for 2021, the 40ha resort 30

is wonderful for first-timers and families on a budget. It’s less daunting than the large resorts, with 11 lifts, gently progressing runs, and lift passes are about 30 per cent cheaper. There is no accommodation at the resort, so most people stay in surrounding areas such as Adaminaby, about 50km away, making it more affordable. The resort is 7km from Kiandra, the place where skiing began in Australia during the Kiandra Gold Rush in the 1860s. selwynsnow.com.au

on Australia’s longest green run, Wombats Ramble, fireworks on Thursdays, tobogganing, snow tubing and snowmobile tours. Dining options abound, including a pizzeria and a donut shop. fallscreek.com.au

HOTHAM ALPINE RESORT, VICTORIA

The only resort in the Southern Hemisphere where the village is located on top of the mountain, Hotham has spectacular views of the Victorian Alps and Great Dividing Range. CORIN FOREST, ACT It’s around 4.5 hours’ drive from Melbourne, For your first taste of the snow Corin but if you want to splash out you can fly there Forest, just 45 minutes’ from Canberra, has – Hotham even has its own airport. The 320ha a snow play area for tobogganing, snowman resort has 13 chairlifts and three terrain parks. building and snowball fights. There’s also a But one of the best things about this resort is small area to learn to ski and snowboard, all the other activities, such as dog sled tours, with lessons available for ages five and up. snowmobiling and Harry the Dragon’s live Afterwards, warm up with a hot chocolate show every Wednesday and Saturday. There in the lodge, where you can sit and toast are heaps of on-snow hotels and chalets, or marshmallows around the central fireplace. stay a short shuttle bus ride away at charming In September, guests can bring their Dinner Plain, which also has a Japanesefurry friends along for special snow dog style onsen that mum will love. But dad isn’t weekends. forgotten here – Hotham is also home to corin.com.au Australia’s highest brewery. mthotham.com.au

FALLS CREEK, VICTORIA Victoria’s largest ski resort, Falls Creek, has a ski-in, ski-out village where you can slide straight from your door to the lifts and home again at the end of the day. It has 14 lifts giving access to 450ha of terrain, with a range of family-friendly activities including night skiing every Wednesday and Saturday

MT BULLER, VICTORIA

Around 3.5 hours’ drive from Melbourne, Mt Buller has the largest lift network in Victoria, with 21 lifts spread across around 300ha of skiable terrain. Kids aged from three can sign up to the ski and snowboard school, and Kids Stay Free packages are offered in June

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

Try tobogganing at Corin Forest near Canberra A family at Coronet Peak near Queenstown

and September. Teens can also ski at child prices all the way through to Year 12, and enjoy child rates for rental equipment. The resort has a range of family-friendly accommodation, with everything from full-service hotels (think kids’ zones, indoor pools and room service) to self-contained apartments and classic ski lodges with communal kitchens, free shuttles to the door and games rooms with ping pong tables. Mt Buller even has Australia’s highest cinema, which screens mainstream movies during winter as well as events such as the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. Mt Buller’s Air Zone is also a hit with the kids, with Olympic-sized trampolines, a climbing wall and a foam pit. You might even find yourself bouncing next to a winter Olympian, as Australia’s freestyle team trains for aerials and moguls at Mt Buller. Big changes have been taking place in the village in recent years and the second stage of the Kooroora complex development is finally complete for the 2020 winter season. The final touches include a new retail colonnade, outdoor dining at the Kooroora Hotel, and large open public spaces in the village centre. There’s also a new Iron Maiden Smokehouse at the top of the Northside Express offering beef brisket,

smoky chicken and tater tots cooked in a converted cast-iron steam boiler that’s more than 4m long. mtbuller.com.au

MT BAW BAW, VICTORIA

The closest resort to a capital city in Australia, Mt Baw Baw Alpine Resort is around 2.5 hours’ drive from Melbourne in West Gippsland and just an hour from the Latrobe Valley. The small resort appeals to families and first timers, with seven lifts spread across 35ha. There’s also a toboggan park with a magic carpet and a snow play area. The village has a restaurant, a hotel, self-contained apartments, cabins and lodges. A highlight of any visit is meeting the resort’s two resident alpine dingoes, Warragul and Rowdy, at the Dingo Resource Centre. Other year-round offerings include In-Ground Trampolines, Laser Tag and Archery Attack, plus Big Air Bag. mtbawbaw.com.au

NEW ZEALAND CORONET PEAK

The closest resort to Queenstown, just a 25-minute drive away, Coronet Peak has stunning views over Lake Wakatipu. It also offers New Zealand’s longest ski day, with

freshly groomed trails during First Tracks from 8am daily, through to night skiing three nights a week on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday until 9pm. The resort has 280ha of skiable terrain, with four lifts plus four surface conveyor lifts in the beginner’s area. This season, the resort is welcoming eightseater gondola cabins on Coronet Express. Kids aged three months to five years can take part in Skiwiland, an early learning centre on the mountain, while the Kea Club offers lessons for five to 15-year-olds. coronetpeak.co.nz/winter

MT HUTT

Voted New Zealand’s best ski resort for the past five years in a row in the World Ski Awards, Mt Hutt is around 1.5 hours’ drive from Christchurch and just 35 minutes from the town of Methven. It has 385ha of skiable terrain and three chairlifts, including the South Island’s highest, as well as two conveyer lifts on the learners’ slopes. As part of The Methven Kids4Free Deal, Mt Hutt offers children 10 and under a free lift pass during the season. Childcare is available from three-months-old, and ski lessons are available from three-years-old, with snowboarding lessons from age seven. mthutt.co.nz  31

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

MT RUAPEHU

Located in the UNESCO World Heritagelisted Tongariro National Park on the North Island, New Zealand’s largest ski resort, Whakapapa, and Tūroa offer a combined 1050ha of terrain. Both have dedicated learning facilities: Happy Valley at Whakapapa and Alpine Meadow at Tūroa, which are perfect for families and younger children starting out. Mt Ruapehu ski passes allow access to both resorts, so you get two ski areas for the price of one. The new Sky Waka gondola at Whakapapa makes progression to the upper mountain easier with its enclosed cabins and protection from the elements. The resorts are surrounded by quaint tourist-friendly towns with accommodation options to suit all families and budgets. mtruapehu.com

CARDRONA ALPINE RESORT

Known for its wide, open runs ideal for beginner and intermediate skiers, Cardrona

A ski lesson at Whakapapa, Mt Ruapehu

is the most popular ski resort in the country, with three bowls spread across 400ha of terrain. Kids as young as three months can be minded in its Ski Kindy, with ski lessons available for Under 5s, and programs for children of all ability levels up to 14-yearsold. The resort is around 45 minutes’ drive from Queenstown and 20 minutes’ from Wanaka, and also has self-catering apartments a one-minute walk to the lifts. But the real joy of this resort is the chance to sit around the fire pits outside the historic Cardrona Hotel after a big day on the hill. Built during the gold rush in 1863, the pub is one of the best places for après on the planet. cardrona.com

TREBLE CONE

As well as being the South Island’s largest ski area at 550ha, Treble Cone has the longest vertical rise in the region. Its uncrowded runs offer spectacular views over Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps. The learner area is located alongside the Base lodge

Cardrona is known for its wide, open runs

and café. It’s just a 25-minute drive from the town of Wanaka, which has lakeside apartments, hotels and lodges, as well as a host of family-friendly dining options, such as food trucks and burger bars. treblecone.com

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

THE NEW SUGAR BOWL CHAIRLIFT WILL OPEN AN EXTRA 2.5KM OF TRAILS

THE REMARKABLES

This mountain range on the southeastern shore of Lake Wakatipu, around 45 minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive from Queenstown, also has remarkable views. It has three bowls as well as wide open learner slopes and lots of off-piste skiing, making it the perfect mountain for progression. In addition to its four chairlifts, in 2020 the new Sugar Bowl chairlift will open an extra 2.5km of trails and provide direct access from the base building to three terrain parks. Kids aged four can take part in Mini Kea, where time is divided between skiing, playing inside and outside in the snow. Children aged five to 15 can participate in Kea Club lessons. theremarkables.co.nz

A mini shredder at The Remarkables

AUSTRALIA

Towns and regions impacted by the summer bushfires have plenty to entice families, writes ANGELA SAURINE Each summer, Aussie families flock to the coast – and increasingly the mountains – to bask in the sunshine and spend quality time together as they enjoy a vast range of leisure activities during their annual break. But this year was different, with many trips interrupted and plans thwarted by unprecedented bushfires that ravaged some of our favourite holiday playgrounds. A few months on, these destinations are continuing to recover, with bushland regenerating and wildlife returning. After suffering huge losses during what is usually one of the busiest times of the year, exacerbated by a downturn in international visitors thanks to coronavirus, many tourism businesses are feeling the pinch and are keen to welcome domestic travellers back. Tourism Australia launched a campaign to #holidayherethisyear, with the aim of filling hotel rooms, caravan parks, restaurants and beaches in impacted areas. The Caravan Industry Association of Australia’s #keeponcamping initiative also urges travellers to consider visiting an affected area on their next caravan or camping trip. They are also being encouraged to take an #emptyesky and stock up on produce from local suppliers, who rely on the money they earn during peak season to survive through the quieter times of the year. Destination NSW is also raising awareness through its #loveNSW campaign, which invites people to show the world what they love about the state, from the beach to the bush, rural communities, regional centres and global icon, Sydney, on social media. Visit Victoria’s #ashortstaygoesalongway campaign urges Victorians to travel close to home, while the South Australian Tourism Commission wants Australians to show their support and #BookThemOut. And there’s no shortage of great reasons to follow their advice, with an abundance of family-friendly attractions, activities and accommodation options throughout the worst affected areas.

Image: Destination NSW

AUSTRALIA

NSW SOUTH COAST 36

SNORKEL WITH PLAYFUL SEALS AT MONTAGUE ISLAND AT NAROOMA

Image: Ben Mack

MAIN: Fur seals swimming at Montague Island FROM TOP: A family at Tathra Wharf on the Sapphire Coast, A mother and daughter at Orion Beach in the Shoalhaven region, Girls riding scooters at Huskisson

Image: Ben Mack

The NSW South Coast was one of the hardest hit regions, with fires raging for hundreds of kilometres. In the Eurobodalla Shire, which encompasses Batemans Bay, more than 500 homes were lost and nearly 80 per cent of the landscape was burnt. But the area is eager to see tourists return. Eurobodalla is known for its natural and unspoilt beauty, and the bushfires impacted some, but by no means all, of its magnificent beaches, national parks and state forests. Hire a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and head to the water, ride along cycleways, or snorkel with playful seals at Montague Island at Narooma. Birdland Animal Park at Batemans Bay is a great place for kids to meet native animals including wombats, emus and snakes. Mogo Zoo, which was saved by its dedicated employees, has also reopened under a new name, Mogo Wildlife Park. As well as having the largest collection of primates in Australia, here you can see zebras, rhinos and giraffes wandering its savannah plains, and get up close and personal with meerkats, lions and affectionate red pandas. Visit Bodalla Dairy and feed the poddy calves before sampling the amazing cheese, milkshakes, yoghurts and ice-cream produced here. The region is also known for its seafood, especially oysters, with many award-winning waterfront restaurants and family eateries. In the Shoalhaven region, areas affected during the fires over summer included Conjola, Bendalong and, to a lesser degree, Bawley Point and the outskirts of Kangaroo Valley. While many coastal villages were not affected by bushfires, they were impacted for a number of weeks by road closures and media calls to avoid travelling to the region due to safety concerns. Now roads are back open, as are all its towns and villages, but some national parks remain closed. Visit Shoalhaven Zoo, on the banks of the Shoalhaven River, or fly through the air and get your heart racing at Nowra’s Trees Adventure. Take a wildlife cruise at Jervis Bay to spot dolphins, whales and seals, or go kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding in the beautiful inlets, creeks, rivers and basins. There are also lots of new offerings, including Currarong Surf School, Woe Be Gone Freedive in Jervis Bay and Djiriba

Image: ATDavey_Rogers

AUSTRALIA

Waagura cultural tours, with local Aboriginal man Matthew Simms. “The best way you can support our community is by booking a trip, so you can rejuvenate in the Shoalhaven,” Shoalhaven Council’s acting tourism manager Shannan Perry-Hall says. Further south, while the main coastal Sapphire Coast towns Merimbula, Pambula, Bermagui, Tathra and Eden were not directly impacted by bushfires, they were affected by the loss of the summer tourism influx. The area is known for its pristine beaches and award-winning oysters. Go fishing at Merimbula Wharf or Tathra Wharf, stroll along the new Headland Walk, meet native animals at the Potoroo Palace Native Animal Sanctuary near Merimbula and visit the Blue Pool at Bermagui. There’s also the new Camel Rock Surf School at Bermagui, and a new all-abilities playground at Tathra Beach. 37

AUSTRALIA

It’s easy to forget that the north coast of NSW was the first to bear the brunt of the 2019 bushfire emergency with a fire season that started in spring at favourite family destinations including Forster, Tuncurry and Harrington. More than 100 homes were lost in the Barrington Coast region, with business down up to 80 per cent over summer. But while thousands of hectares of parks and forests were burnt, tourism infrastructure was mostly unaffected, or saved by firefighters. All national parks and camping areas reopened in January. The Barrington Coast is great for lovers of the outdoors, from the mountains to the sea. Easy walks in its national parks take you to lookouts and hidden waterfalls, or you can paddle like an explorer on its rivers. Riverside camping provides wonderful opportunities for swimming, lazing on inflatables or

watching out for platypus, while its coastal lakes are ideal for kayaking, fishing, boating, swimming, standup paddleboarding, snorkelling and waterskiing. See the tallest tree known in NSW, The Grandis, in the picnic area in Myall Lakes National Park, just north of Bulahdelah. Wander coastal woodlands bounded by long isolated beaches at Mungo and Seal Rocks, or dig your toes into the white sand on the southern shores of the Barrington Coast around Hawks Nest. Explore the rural landscapes of the Manning Valley, including Ellenborough Falls and Potoroo Falls in nearby Tapin Tops National Park, and the forests perched atop the Lansdowne escarpment, Crowdy Bay National Park and Coorabakh National Park in the north. There are holiday parks and convenient

motels galore in the region’s towns, as well as B&Bs and self-contained holiday houses. Polblue in Barrington Tops also boasts the highest campground in Australia that you can drive to – or why not hire a houseboat and meander along the lakes and rivers? “For a short time, it felt like parts of our region were burning from mountaintop to sand dune, but the fires have passed, the smoke has cleared, and the rain has finally fallen,” MidCoast Council’s destination management coordinator Sharon Bultitude says. “So now in the Barrington Coast we’re inviting holidaymakers from across Australia to be inspired by our beautiful countryside and breathtaking Pacific coastline. Revisit an old favourite spot or uncover somewhere completely new. Whether you love the coast or the mountains, there are over 10,000sq km to discover in the Barrington Coast.”

Image: The Legendary Pacific Coast

Breckenridge Channel in Forster

Ellenborough Falls at Elands 38

THE BARRIINGTON COAST IS GREAT FOR LOVERS OF THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Image: East Coast Photography

NSW north COAST

AUSTRALIA

NSW SNOWY MOUNTAINS

It’s well known as a winter playground, but the NSW Snowy Mountains has become a popular year-round destination. Summer is usually one of its busiest times, but in January the mountain biking hub of Thredbo was evacuated, and the town of Jindabyne designated a ‘tourist leave zone’, with many roads closed because of bushfires. In the north of the Kosciuszko National Park, Selwyn Snow Resort was completely destroyed in the fires and will remain closed this season. Yarrangobilly Caves and Thermal Pool were also closed throughout summer, but both plan to re-open in time for Easter 2020. The Alpine Way has also re-opened, as well as roads in the northern areas of the park. The region offers a variety of adventure activities, from hiking, horse riding and mountain biking to canoeing and kayaking on Lake Jindabyne. Climb to the top of Australia’s tallest mountain, Mt Kosciuszko; go fishing at Eucumbene Trout Farm, or head to Bombala Platypus Reserve, 1.5 hours’ drive from Jindabyne, to try to spot the unique creatures that reside in the river. And be sure to stop in at The Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre in Cooma to check out the new, interactive flyover through the mountains. Thredbo also has a leisure centre with a pool and waterslide, trampolines and a climbing wall, as well as bobsled rides. Thredbo and Jindabyne have a range of accommodation options for all budgets and requirements, including hotels and caravan parks with cabins, lodges, luxurious apartments and self-contained units. Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa, beside the Bullocks Flat Skitube Terminal on The Alpine Way, has more than 18km of mountain biking tracks, archery, trampolines, canoeing and tennis, as well as a heated indoor pool and a gym. Nearby Wildbrumby Distillery is a great place for the kids to run around whilst parents enjoy lunch – and maybe even some schnapps.

FROM TOP: Mountain biker boys high fiving at Thredbo, Enjoying the bobsled at Thredbo, A father and son fishing at Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa 39

AUSTRALIA

NSW BLUE MOUNTAINS

Image: Destination NSW

Kids on the back of a truck at Megalong Creek Estate

The Three Sisters at Katoomba

While much of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area was burnt in the bushfires, most of the tourist areas look as fantastic as ever, including the famous Three Sisters rock formation at Katoomba. The Bells Line of Road side of the Blue Mountains, between Lithgow and Kurrajong, was damaged in the fires, with several homes and tourism structures lost, but the populated strip along the Great Western Highway side was undamaged. All the popular tourist spots and businesses have reopened, with more bush tracks into the wilderness reopening all the time. Many of the lookouts, campsites and family-friendly mountain bike routes have also reopened, but the Blue Mountains region is still struggling due to mass tourist cancellations during the bushfires. Hop on the double-decker Blue Mountains Explorer Bus to explore at your own pace. It covers 29 stops, from major attractions to hidden gems the day tours miss. The family-owned and operated Megalong Creek Estate vineyard and cellar door in the Megalong Valley is popular with families because of its open spaces for children to run around. The owners’ kids are usually there too and enjoy the company

of other youngsters. Experience the thrill of the world’s steepest railway at Scenic World, where you will be suspended 270m above the valley looking through partiallyglassed floor in the Scenic Skyway; wander the 2.4km easy grade Scenic Walkway through pristine rainforest; and glide between the cliff top and the forest floor in the Scenic Cableway. Sweet tooths will love Gingerbread House Katoomba, which is located in a restored 100-year-old church and sells house-baked gingerbread, cakes and drinks based on the Hansel and Gretel fairytale; and indulge in gelato, waffles and handmade chocolates at Blue Mountains Chocolate Company, just a minute’s walk from Echo Point and the Three Sisters. When it comes to accommodation, Blue Mountains Hygge Stays especially welcomes families to their two self-contained holiday lettings in the upper Blue Mountains – Hyggested in Leura and Hyggebo in Katoomba. Both are inspired by hygge, a Danish word meaning ‘to create a warm atmosphere and enjoy the good things in life with good people’, and the owners’ travels with their two sons. As well as a toasty fireplace, each has a cot and highchair and lots of games, toys and outdoor activities.

AUSTRALIA

The Blue Lake at the Jenolan Caves

NSW CENTRAL WEST

Images: Destination NSW

Although the Bathurst Region was not directly affected by the summer bushfire crisis, tourism was hit hard as a result of several combining factors. Bells Line of Road, a major route to the region from Sydney, was closed for 12 days in December 2019. The main route, The Great Western Highway, also closed twice over the same period. The Jenolan Caves was closed throughout January 2020, as it was under threat from the Green Wattle Creek bushfire. Several outbuildings were lost, and firefighters worked tirelessly to protect the heritagelisted Caves House, which reopened at the end of the month. But a week later, heavy rainfall and flash flooding caused landslides, blocking the only The Jenolan Caves

Kids at the Bathurst Rail Museum

remaining open road into Jenolan Caves, forcing the closure of the popular tourist destination again. It reopened in late February, with a limited timetable, but surrounding bushwalks and some cave tours remain closed due to bushfire and flood damage. Check out the Mt Panorama Circuit racing track, go fossicking in Sofala and visit Australia’s largest privately-owned, cool climate garden, Mayfield Garden, near Oberon. The Bathurst Rail Museum, which opened in late February, has a kids’ room containing the largest fixed BRIO set in the world, a café where you can enjoy lunch inside a restored timber train carriage, and a HO scale model railway modelling the Tarana to Bathurst line. The museum is housed in the historic railway workers cottage, displaying the social history of Bathurst as a railway town, with stories from former railway workers on how the railway line opened NSW up to the west. Farmstays, such as Barcoos Farmstays Bathurst, are a great accommodation option, or stay in a self-contained cottage or in a motel in town.

DISPLAYING THE SOCIAL HISTORY OF BATHURST AS A RAILWAY TOWN 41

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GIPPSLAND, VICTORIA Victoria’s East Gippsland region suffered extensive damage in the fires, with major holiday spots such as the Gippsland Lakes evacuated during peak season. The Princes Highway – the key Sydney to Melbourne coastal touring route that brings traffic to East Gippsland – was closed for more than a month. Other areas of Gippsland were not affected by the fires but suffered

from the resulting downturn in tourists. East Gippsland reopened for business and welcoming visitors. Even in places that were more heavily impacted, such as Mallacoota, Buchan, Bruthen and Cann River, the town centre is unscathed, but fire damage can still be seen on the roadsides, bushland and private properties between towns and, in some cases, in homes on the outskirts.

Several national parks remain closed as Parks Victoria rebuilds facilities, with latest updates available via its website. A much-loved Victorian holiday spot, Lakes Entrance occupies a spectacular position on the edge of Ninety Mile Beach, where the Gippsland Lakes meet the Southern Ocean. Explore the lakes in a kayak or on a stand-up paddleboard, hop aboard

MAIN: A taste of luxury at Captains Cove Resort RIGHT: An echidna at Raymond Island, An aerial view of Lakes Entrance, The Great Alpine Road

APARTMENTS AT CAPTAINS COVE RESORT HAVE THEIR OWN PRIVATE JETTY 42

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a boat for a cruise or make the kids’ day with a visit to Footbridge Mini Golf, Lolly Shop & Ice Cream Shack. For a dose of style, Metung is the place to be. A great base for water sports enthusiasts, this tiny picture book village features fine food and wine and a handful of inspiring galleries. Families will love having lunch overlooking the water at Metung Hotel, splashing in the town’s free water park, and climbing in the timber structures of the adventure park. Paynesville is surrounded by lakes on three sides, with canals and inlets providing plenty of opportunities for water sports. Take the free car and passenger ferry to Raymond Island across the McMillan Strait, which is one of the best places in Australia to spot koalas. There are also 140 species of native birds to spot in the Lakes National Park. Walk the trail or peddle your way around on a surrey bike from Ride the Koalas. Discover a honeycomb of spectacular limestone formations, carved by an underground river almost 400 million years ago, at Buchan Caves. Tour the largest cave system in Victoria, enjoy a picnic in the scenic heritage-listed landscape or camp under the stars. Join a tour of Fairy Cave or Royal Cave, or both, and marvel at the magnificent stalactite and stalagmite forms, pillars, shawls and rim pools, as well as cave sediment and a flowing stream. Take a cruise with a local guide to see Mallacoota Inlet, or paddle a canoe up the Genoa or Wallagaraugh rivers to Gipsy Point, a beautiful peninsula jutting into the top lake of the Mallacoota Inlet, which is

home to a large mob of kangaroos. Pack your hiking boots, skis, fishing rod and mountain bikes and go road tripping along the Great Alpine Road, which takes you past grand mountain ranges, rich forests and shimmering waterways. Head north from Metung through Victoria’s high country to Wangaratta. Family-friendly accommodation abounds, from holiday parks such as Whiters BIG4 Caravan Park Lakes Entrance and NRMA Eastern Beach Holiday Park to the contemporary, pet-friendly homestead Country House Retreat, self-contained cabins at Jetty Road Retreat and Captains Cove Resort at Paynesville, where each apartment comes with its own private jetty.

ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Many parts of this region, just 30 minutes’ drive from Adelaide, were badly impacted by the Cudlee Creek bushfire that began before Christmas 2019, with more than 80 homes lost. But many towns were not directly impacted, including historic German village, Hahndorf. All roads and tourism businesses have re-opened, and the region is welcoming visitors with open arms. While three of the area’s most familyfriendly wineries lost vines in the fire, the cellar doors and gardens at Golding Wines in Lobethal, Barristers Block in Woodside and Anderson Hill in Lenswood were saved and are great places to support local businesses. The northern townships of Birdwood, Gumeracha and Cudlee Creek narrowly escaped the fires and are home to some of the region’s favourite family-friendly attractions, including the National Motor Museum, The Big Rocking Horse & The Toy Factory, and Cleland Wildlife Park. Animal lovers will also love Warrawong Wildlife Sanctuary in Mylor, and Hahndorf

Images: South Australian Tourism Commission-Adam Bruzzone

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Farm Barn, where you can try your hand at milking a cow, take a pony ride, bottle feed baby lambs and hand feed the camels and donkeys. Melba’s Chocolate and Confectionery Factory in Woodside was also saved by firefighters. Set on a 54ha property, Woodhouse Activity Centre in Piccadilly offers activities including an obstacle course, disc golf, orienteering and tube slides. Stay in a heritage-listed stone manor, rustic but cosy chalets or book an unpowered camping site. Other accommodation options include vineyard cottages, country pubs, farmstays, eco retreats and holiday parks. BIG4 Hahndorf Resort has a jumping pillow, a pool and mini golf, with modern rooms, units, cottages and houses for groups. In Hahndorf, try The Studios by Haus for self-contained studio apartments set just off the main street, or The Manna by Haus. In wine country, consider the homestead at Longview Vineyard in Macclesfield and selfcontained country cottages Esto House at Crafers and The Other House at Piccadilly.

MAIN: A family meeting the emus at Cleland Wildlife Park LEFT: Ye Olde Icecreamery & Cafe in Hahndorf, Happy kids on the cargo net obstacle course at Woodhouse Activity Centre

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THE REGION ABOUNDS WITH FAMILY-FRIENDLY ATTRACTIONS 45

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KANGAROO ISLAND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Kangaroo Island was severely impacted by bushfires, mostly started by lightning strikes, over summer. The western end of the island, which is home to the Flinders Chase National Park, the adjoining Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection area and Kelly Hill Conservation Park were the hardest hit areas. The Rocky River precinct, including the visitor centre, was destroyed, along with the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail. Although the iconic Flinders Chase National Park was severely affected,

Beach fun at Stokes Bay on Kangaroo Island 46

the park’s Cape du Couedic Lighthouse and Lighthouse Keepers Cottages were saved. Admiral’s Arch, a famous home to a colony of long-nosed fur seals, was also unaffected. Heritage cottages and buildings at Cape Borda Lightstation were saved, and while key attraction Remarkable Rocks was not damaged, the nearby boardwalk and visitor facilities were destroyed. Although the affected areas willtake some time to recover, more than half the island remains untouched.

Images: Andy Steven-South Australia Tourism Commission

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ABOVE: A girl feeding a koala at Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park LEFT: Seal Bay Conservation Park

Kangaroo Island is often referred to as a ‘zoo without fences’, and this is still the case. Take a guided beach walk amongst a colony of endangered Australian sea lions at Seal Bay Conservation Park, swim with dolphins with KI Marine Adventures and see the birds of prey free-flight show at Raptor Domain. View a colony of the world’s smallest penguins at Penneshaw Penguin Centre, hold a koala and hand feed kangaroos at KI Wildlife Park and go sandboarding or tobogganing on a 2kmlong stretch of sand dunes with Kangaroo Island Outdoor Action. Walk through a rock passageway to find one of Kangaroo Island’s best kept secrets, the hidden beach of Stokes Bay, which has a kid-friendly natural rock pool area, and see working dogs in action at Rob’s Shearing and Sheepdogs. Even if you have visited before, there are plenty of new reasons to entice you back – from a beekeeping experience at Kangaroo Island Living Honey to new sculptures on the 1.5km-long Kangaroo Island Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw. Kangaroo Island accommodation has dramatically changed over the past decade. Today, you will find a range of choices. Each region and town is unique, with options including holiday houses, self-contained units, cabins, hotels, motels, B&Bs and holiday parks. 47

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BEST FAMILY DRIVING HOLIDAYS DOWN UNDER

Image: Tourism and Events Queensland

Ultimate Road Trips of Australia author LEE ATKINSON shares her top five family road trips to do with kids

Admiring the view from the Australian Age of Dinosaurs museum in Winton 48

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Ride Thomas at the NSW Rail Museum

CENTRAL WEST NSW

West of Sydney, beyond the sandstone curtain of the Blue Mountains, is a region jam-packed with historic gold-rush ghost towns, fascinating museums like the Old Dubbo Gaol and the famous Dish at Parkes, Japanese gardens, Wellington caves and an amazing zoo at Dubbo, where you can camp out overnight. All these make this a great drive to do with kids, while the award-winning food and wine of the region make it just as enticing for adults. Accommodation in smaller towns is good value, and any money you spend will help drought affected locals. The distances between towns are reasonably short as well, which is always a bonus when you have a back seat full of kids.

YARRA VALLEY, VICTORIA

Most people think of food and wine when they think of the Yarra Valley, but there are plenty of things to do that don’t involve eating and drinking, with wildlife, art and ferny forests topping the list. The kids will love a ride on Puffing Billy, a century-old steam train that winds through the rainforest. They also love Healesville Sanctuary, where highlights include bird of prey flight demonstrations, a daily reptile show and the ‘platypusary’, where you can tickle Australia’s most elusive monotreme on a ‘wade with platypus tour’.

The Puffing Billy train

SYDNEY TO CANBERRA

Take the kids to Canberra and introduce them to sporting legends, Australian icons, dinosaurs, astronauts, rock art and wild kangaroos. A holiday in Canberra visiting its amazing range of museums and family friendly attractions is a great thing to do with kids. Break the three-hour journey with a stop at the NSW Rail Museum at Thirlmere, or the International Cricket Hall of Fame in Bowral.

OUTBACK QUEENSLAND There are lots of reasons why the idea of taking the kids on a road trip through outback Queensland can be a 

See The Dish in Parkes

CLOSE TO HALF OF THE ISLAND IS NATURAL BUSHLAND OR NATIONAL PARK

Image: TEQ

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Cobb and Co. Longreach

scary proposition – distances between attractions are vast by bored-kid-in-theback-seat-standards, and there is quite a lot of driving with not much to see and do along the way (an average of two hours between towns). But don’t let that put you off, because this is a place kids will love. Follow the dinosaur trail from Winton to Richmond and uncover dinosaur skeletons, fossilised dinosaur stampede sites, and even have a go at free fossil hunting near Richmond – you never know what you will find. In Longreach, you can walk on the wing of a 747 aircraft, ride a Cobb and Co. stagecoach at full gallop, watch cowboy stunt riders in action and spend hours playing with the interactive exhibits at the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame.

Image: SATC

KANGAROO ISLAND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Remarkable Rocks

This is an edited extract of Ultimate Road Trips: Australia by Lee Atkinson, which highlights 40 of the best driving holidays around the country. Published by Hardie Grant, it’s available wherever good books are sold. RRP $39.99.

A drive around South Australia’s wild and rugged Kangaroo Island is a wildlife safari in your own backyard. Close to half of the island is either natural bushland or national park, and even though it was impacted by the bushfires earlier this year it is still home to some of the most diverse wildlife you will find concentrated in one area anywhere in Australia – fur seals, rare Australian sea lions, koalas, kangaroos, 254 species of birdlife and plenty of tammar wallabies. If you can’t spot wildlife here, then you simply aren’t trying. Older kids will also enjoy sandboarding the dunes of the Little Sahara and swimming with dolphins, and the whole family will love the honey ice cream at Clifford’s Honey Farm.

BABY AND TODDLER TRAVEL

ALL THE RIGHT ELEMENTS When ANGELA SAURINE returns to one of her favourite Australian resorts in Byron Bay, she finds it has evolved with her

Angela and Oliver meet a horse at The Farm in Byron Bay 52

BABY AND TODDLER TRAVEL

RIGHT: Oliver on his scooter at Elements of Byron BOTTOM: The fire pit at the resort

I am pushing my toddler Oliver along the quiet road through Elements of Byron resort on his ride-on scooter, listening to the birds tweeting in the gum trees that surround us, when suddenly a rabbit darts across the path in front of us. “Bunny!” I cry, pointing excitedly in the direction of the fluffy critter. No sooner had the words exited my mouth, than it scurries back across the road in the other direction. As we continue our exploration of the resort, we come across a bush turkey, followed by a lizard, then a duck in a pond, much to Oliver’s delight. Integration with nature is one of the biggest drawcards for Elements, located on a 20ha property at Belongil Beach,

around ten minutes’ drive north of Byron Bay on the NSW North Coast. The smell of eucalyptus permeates throughout, magpies squawk in trees, and birds even fly through the restaurant, Azure Bar and Grill, during breakfast when the bifold doors are open. There are signs describing the wildlife you are likely to see dotted along the roadways. While Oliver is a bit young to appreciate them yet, they are great for older kids. I’d first stayed at the resort PB (prebaby), shortly after it opened in 2016, and immediately fell in love with its ‘barefoot luxury’-vibe. The shape of the main pavilion was inspired by a windswept sand dune – one of four ‘elements’ that have influenced the design, along with eucalyptus, wetland and rainforest. As soon as you exit the lobby, one of the first things you notice is the large round fire pit, surrounded by colourful day beds, in front of the main lagoon pool. Day beds also hang suspended over the shallow pool in the adults-only area. Built on a site previously owned by Club Med (that never eventuated due to opposition from locals), Elements was a passion project for its owners, BRW rich-lister Brian Flannery and his wife Peggy, who aimed to develop a resort with minimal environmental footprint. They seem to have succeeded in their quest – with everything from paper straws and biodegradable take-away coffee cups with composable sugarcane lids, to iPads with guest information in villas, and a motionactivated energy management system that shuts down power when you’re out and about. When I first visited, it was all studio and one-bedroom villas, and most guests were travelling in couples and groups of friends. Since then, another 99 luxury one and twobedroom, two-bathroom villas have been built, many with timber decks and inbuilt fireplaces, bringing the total number to 193. The dramatic increase in families staying at the resort is noticeable. It has the feel of an upscale holiday park, with kids playing bocce and giant chess and climbing on the wooden playground. When it rains, we hitch a ride in a buggy to dinner, which is excellent fun.  53

BABY AND TODDLER TRAVEL

OLIVER GIGGLES AS WE PAT AND FEED THE GOATS, WHO ARE QUITE BOISTEROUS

We spend one afternoon by the pool splashing about in the toddler area, before heading to the resort’s Botanica Beach Club – the only one of its kind in Australia. Kids play in the sand while parents lie back on the loungers and sip gin from the retro van while admiring the views out to Julian Rocks Marine Reserve, traditionally known as Nguthungulli. As a mum, I know that taking time for self-care is important, so one morning I escape for a yoga class at Heart of the Bay, a specially-built elevated grass area also overlooking the beach. I’m one of around 30 people in the class, including a couple of tweens. Doing yoga outdoors is one of my favourite things in the world, and it’s lovely using Cape Byron Lighthouse as a focal point during balancing postures, feeling the wind in my hair, the warm glow of the rising sun on my face, and listening to the sound of waves crashing against the shore as seagulls glide overhead. Feeling recharged, I am ready to get out and about and enjoy the many familyfriendly activities and experiences in the area with Oliver. Just a few minutes’ drive down the road, The Farm is a wonderful place for kids to learn about where food comes from. The innovative, multi-faceted business has been running since 2013 when Tom and Emma Lane, who had backgrounds in fashion and advertising, bought the former dairy farm after seeing their then three-year-old daughter 54

TOP: An aerial view of Elements of Byron BOTTOM: Oliver patting a goat at Macadamia Castle

LEFT: Oliver doing the reflexology path at Crystal Castle in the Byron Bay hinterland TOP: Angela and Oliver enjoying a train ride at Macadamia Castle

devouring green beans she’d grown and picked fresh from their veggie patch. We wander around the 32ha working farm and see the vegetable gardens, horses, pigs, heritage Scottish Highland cattle and chickens, which roam freely and are used for meat and eggs in the on-site restaurant, café and produce store. From there, we continue to Crystal Castle, around 20 minutes’ drive away in the Byron hinterland. At first I find it difficult pushing Oliver’s pram on the gravel path, but it becomes significantly easier once I realise I still have the brakes on! Oliver stares in wonder at the sparkling crystals in the Enchanted Cave, not quite sure what to make of it all. We take our shoes off and walk over the pebbles on the reflexology path. Oliver touches the giant crystal that lies in the middle, fascinated. “That’s Buddha – he’s a good guy,” I explain as we pass a 4m high statue of the spiritual teacher. Castles seem to be big in these parts.

Image Lisa Sawras

BABY AND TODDLER TRAVEL

Another day, we head south to Macadamia Castle near Lennox Head, which despite its name is more like an animal park with a train and playgrounds (and a large souvenir shop). Oliver giggles as we pat and feed the goats, who are quite boisterous. We eat gelato, watch a reptile show and meander through the aviary before jumping on the train for a ride around the park. Trains are always a winner for toddlers, and it’s also a novelty to catch the solar-powered heritage train that now runs from North Beach Station, just a few minutes’ walk from Elements, into Byron. Oliver loves hearing the “toot toot!” of the train as it leaves the station, watching the inspector punch holes in his prized ticket, and waving at cars stopped at the crossing. This particular train is also a hit with mum, as it means avoiding driving and trying to find a parking spot in town! The writer was a guest of Elements of Byron.

STAYING THERE

Elements of Byron has eight luxury freestanding villa options, ranging from wheelchair accessible studios to twobedroom villas. Facilities include a tennis court, gym, on-resort horse ranch, Osprey Spa, central lagoon pool and adults-only pool with private cabanas. Visit elementsofbyron.com.au

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A humpack whale spotted in Jervis Bay during a tour with Dive Jervis Bay

BREACHING

When aÂ whale leaps out of the water, exposing all or most of its body. It may land on its side or back, creating a large splash

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F O E L WHA E M I T A Head to the coast to see whales breaching and spy hopping during their annual migration this winter

Image: Jordan Robins-Destination NSW

Every year thousands of whales migrate north from Antarctica to breed and give birth in the warmer waters off Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coast. Humpback whales can travel as far as North Queensland and Western Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kimberley region, while southern right whales can be sighted around the Great Australian Bight and up towards Cape Byron on the east coast. If you are lucky you may even spot an orca or rare blue whale. Here are some of the best places to go to maximise your chances of a whaley cool encounter this season.

Explore the WHALE DISCOVERY TRAIL’S iconic bays, headlands and beaches as you search for whales from spectacular coastal viewing points.

GROSSARD POINT The site of Captain Grossard’s 1868 burial after a tragic accident. Watch for whales entering the bay close to shore.

Western Port

Cowes

WESTERN PORT

Humpbacks have been spotted from this jetty, and bottlenose dolphins can be seen in the bay all year round.

PHILLIP ISLAND San Remo

PUNCHBOWL

Follow the spectacular George Bass Coastal Walk and look out for whales from the high cliffs overlooking the wild waters of Bass Strait.

HARMERS HAVEN

SUMMERLANDS

Home to great surf and the world’s largest Little Penguin colony. Shorttailed shearwaters and hooded plovers live here too.

PYRAMID ROCK

A dramatic basalt outcrop, home to short-tailed shearwaters, black-faced cormorants and sooty oystercatchers.

To find out more visit

CAPE WOOLAMAI

A large colony of shorttailed shearwaters return from Alaska annually to breed here. Look out for albatross and sea eagles soaring above.

visitphillipisland.com

EAGLES NEST

CAPE PATERSON

Bunurong Marine Park encompasses rock platforms and underwater reefs. This is a great spot for whale spotting and snorkelling.

Site of Australia’s first dinosaur bone discovery, the Cape Paterson Claw, in 1903. The sedimentary rocks are 115 millions years old.

In 1826 Captain William Hovell discovered coal here and in 1901 the Artisan ran aground at nearby Wreck Beach.

Bass Strait

Wonthaggi

Inverloch

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The gentle giants can be spotted from purpose-built viewing platforms, clifftops and rocky outcrops along the Great Ocean Road and Gippsland’s south coast, but the best viewing can be found in and around Portland, Warrnambool and Phillip Island. Walk, ride or drive along the Bass Coast Whale Discovery Trail from Eagles Nest in the east to Cowes on Phillip Island to find the best bays, headlands and beaches to view them from. They include Summerland, which also boasts the world’s largest colony of Little Penguins, Pyramid Rock and Cape Woolamai. Interpretive signs along the way give interesting insights into the lives of whales and their behaviour.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Kangaroo Island, the Fleurieu Peninsula and the Eyre Peninsula are all great places to try your luck. From Victor Harbor’s Encounter Bay, around an hour’s drive from Adelaide, you can embark on a tour on The Big Duck - an 11-long rigid inflatable boat, purposebuilt for Southern Ocean conditions. The tour route varies depending on where the whales are choosing to hang out at the time, but all start from Granite Island causeway and travel around the headlands and on to Horseshoe Bay towards Basham Beach, where whales can often be found in the warm shallow water, which provides the perfect conditions for females to give birth.

Image: Broome Whale Watching

VICTORIA

Follow the Bass Coast Whale Discovery Trail on Phillip Island in Victoria

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QUEENSLAND

Hervey Bay is known as the whale watching capital of Australia – and with good reason. Its calm, protected waters provide the perfect conditions for mother humpbacks to teach their newborn calves survival skills before continuing on their long journey south. Each year thousands of the mammals hang out in the bay for up to two weeks at a time. The whales here tend to be quite curious, with more prolonged encounters than you may expect in other parts of the country. If you get really lucky you could see playful newborns coming right up to your boat

to get a closer look at their first humans. Hervey Bay also hosts an annual whale festival which includes a blessing of the fleet ceremony to mark the start of the season, a whale parade and paddle-out for whales, with this year’s event to be held from July 25 to August 9. Nearby Fraser Island is a great base for a whale-watching holiday, with the chance to view them from lookouts, or book a cruise. But you can also spot them from many other locations, including Brisbane, the Gold Coast and the Sunshine Coast.

MUGGING

Image: Tourism and Events Queensland

When a whale approaches a boat and swims around it

A whale saying hello to tourists at Hervey Bay

AUSTRALIA

Image: Destination NSW

Whale watching off Sydney

NSW

From the calm, nutrient-rich waters of Twofold Bay down south in Eden, to Australia’s most easterly point, Byron Bay, the entire NSW coast abounds with whale watching opportunities. Eden, which even hosts an annual whale festival, is also home to the Eden Killer Whale Museum, where you can learn about the area’s whaling history and see the 6.7m-long skeleton of Old Tom, one of the orcas who famously helped fishermen herd baleen whales into the bay and kill them, in exchange for offcuts, at the turn of the century. These days it’s humpbacks and southern right whales that pass on their annual migration. Jervis Bay is halfway along the whales’ 5,000km migration route, acting as somewhat of a crèche for mums and their calves to play, rest and learn whale behaviours before returning home. Because the bay is like a ‘claw’ that juts out into deep ocean, whales come by on the humpback highway and allow for fantastic viewing from the north and south headlands of

Jervis Bay as well as other points like Ulladulla and Culburra Beach. There are also two eco-cruise operators based in Jervis Bay. Sydney has many easily accessible options, from picnicking on North or South Head to a plethora of whale watching cruises. On the Central Coast check out Norah Head Lighthouse, which has a Whale Dreamers Festival in July, Gerrin Point Lookout and Marie Byles Lookout along the

coastal walk in Bouddi National Park or Captain Cook Lookout at Copacabana. Head to Byron Bay’s landmark Cape Byron Lighthouse for the best vantage point in the region, or book a tour with Byron Bay Whale Watching, whose vessels are equipped with hydrophones they can dip in the water so you can hear humpback whale song live – a truly spine tingling experience.

Central Coast Holiday Parks Central Coast Council

Central Coast Council

www.cchp.com.au

Central Coast Council

FREE CALL 1800 241 342 61

AUSTRALIA

TASMANIA

Frederick Henry Bay and Great Oyster Bay on the east coast are both excellent vantage points for whale watching, particularly between May and July when they migrate northward, and on their way back between September and November. Southern right whales also travel north from June to September and return between September and late October, with some giving birth in Tasmanian waters.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Image: Tourism Western Australia

If blue whales and orcas are on your wish list, this is the place to go! Bremer Bay is the best spot to see them, between January and April each year. As such, the west can claim the longest whale-watching season in the country, with humpbacks and southern right whales migrating from the food-rich Southern Ocean in the South West to the warm breeding grounds on the north Kimberley coast between May and December. Jump on a cruise from Perth or Rottnest Island, or spot up to 50 whales in a single day, from the air, on a scenic flight along the Kimberley coast with Broome Aviation.

Whales near a boat in Perth

SPY HOPPING

Rising halfway out of the water vertically to look around

ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISINGAUSTRALIA FEATURE

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DESTINATION KIAMA

A father and son on the Kiama Coast Walk

It’s one of Australia’s favourite summer playgrounds, but DEAN KOOREY reveals why winter is the best time to visit the town of Kiama on the NSW South Coast

Image: Peter Izzard

KIAMA’S BEST KEPT SECRET

Phuket may be Thailand’s number one holiday destination for Australian families, but neighbouring provinces Krabi and Phang Nga also have a lot to offer 64

Image: Dee Kramer Photography-Destination NSW

Image: Peter Izzard

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DESTINATION KIAMA

Kids in Minnamurra Rainforest

Kiama Point Headland

Image: Destination NSW

To many families, winter can herald a hibernation of PlayStation proportions – an endless YouTube playlist or gentle Netflix nudge asking: “Are you still watching?” But savvy families are now saying “Alexa, switch off the TV”, “Hey Siri, turn off the lights” and “OK Google, show me directions to Kiama…” The Kiama region may have a trophy cabinet filled with summer holiday triumphs, but more families are tuning in to its best-kept secret – the one the locals keep quiet about. The one that says that winter is actually the best time to unwind and connect with nature, away from the crowds. (Shhh)

The Kiama Blowhole and lighthouse

NO VISIT TO KIAMA IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A TRIP TO THE ‘WHOOSHTASTIC’ BLOWHOLES No visit to Kiama is complete without a trip to the ‘whoosh-tastic’ blowholes (yes, plural), which are often at their most spectacular in the cooler months. The BIG, (and most famous), blowhole is near the Lighthouse, whilst the not-so-small LITTLE Blowhole can be accessed via Tingira Crescent. Water-loving families should definitely pack the wetsuit, as Learn to Surf classes are on offer year-round, and warm water is on offer year-round at the Kiama Leisure Centre. But apart from that, it’s fine to keep the swimmers at home – this is the season for writing names on deserted beaches and for walking Kiama’s famous and majestic Coast Walk, above vast rock shelves, along sandy stretches and one of the prettiest coastlines in Australia. Cast your gaze out towards the horizon, and this is also the best season to see

whales migrating north to breed. Viewing points are plentiful and splashtastic sightings are a daily occurrence from May to August – sure to elicit an involuntary “whoaaa” from younger members of the family. But really, the Kiama region is just getting started. Minnamurra Rainforest is sublime in any weather – a buggy-friendly walk amongst ancient cedar forests. Meanwhile, up on the escarpment, the Illawarra Fly offers adventure-seekers crisp panoramic views and the rush of Australia’s highest zipline. Winter is also a brilliant time to enjoy the world’s biggest treasure hunt – geocaching. Download the app and embark immediately on a search for hidden containers (the Kiama area alone has more than 50 to find!). For creative kids, there are books and games at the library, galleries to visit, arts and craft workshops galore and street art aplenty to inspire. Ready for a bite to eat? Gerringong’s The Hill Bar and Kitchen has fast become a family favourite, with its roaring fire taking the chill away. And the shorter days are a plus for Kiama’s big night skies – away from the city glow, and a source of constant constellatory wonder from stargazing kids and adults alike. The Kiama region in winter is the perfect unplugged family getaway. Just don’t tell anyone… MORE INFO: kiama.com.au 65

QUEENSLAND

DAY ONE: DREAMWORLD

Images: Dreamworld

As well as its rides and attractions, Dreamworld is home to more than 500 animals. Kangaroos, wombats, and birds roam free in the grounds. Luckily the crocodiles don’t, but you can feed 600kg Goliath and his girlfriend, 300kg Matilda! On Tiger Island, you can watch the big cats jump, climb and swim, take a walk or get your photo taken with the cubs and, for the very brave, this is the only place in Queensland where you can actually feed a tiger. Inside the Woolshed, Lily, the kelpie, loves to play catch with a stick. You can also hold a snake or cuddle a koala. Book a close-up, feeding, or photo experience with a variety of animals online before you go.

DAY TWO: WHITEWATER WORLD Who doesn’t love a water park? A fiveminute walk from Dreamworld, you’ll find yourself at Whitewater World. Nestled in 66

GOLD COAST GETAWAY

KARA GEYER and her family make the most of a three-day Gold Coast mini-break

QUEENSLAND

THE ONLY PLACE IN QUEENSLAND WHERE YOU CAN ACTUALLY FEED A TIGER

CLOCKWISE: Six body slides all in one place, Fully 6 Ambassadors for their cousins in the wild on Tiger Island 360 degree views in the heart of Surfers Paradise at SkyPoint

its own enclave, Wiggle Bay is an oasis for younger kids to escape, while the big ones can take the plunge on the newly opened Fully 6 waterslides. If you decide to spend the whole day here, hire the perfect family base camp by choosing from one of the four styles of luxury cabanas. All 22 come equipped with couches, deck chairs, coffee tables, and mini-refrigerators and are easy to lock up and leave, meaning the whole family can get out and have fun rather than having to lug everyone’s gear around all day. And when the little ones get tired, it’s the perfect escape for a nap in the shade.

DAY THREE: SKYPOINT OBSERVATION DECK

STAYING THERE:

The Q1 Resort and Spa offers a range of apartments in the same building as the SkyPoint Observation Deck in Surfers Paradise q1.com.au

The third attraction in the pass, SkyPoint Observation Deck, is around 45 minutes’ drive away in Surfers Paradise. Ride in one of the world’s fastest elevators to level 77, where you enter Australia’s only beachfront observation deck. There you can soak up the incredible 360-degree views of the Gold Coast. If that doesn’t satisfy your inner thrillseeker, you can book a sunrise, morning, daytime, or twilight climb experience. In addition to all-day climbing, the SkyPoint Bistro and Bar offers all-day dining so you can relax and enjoy the view.

MORE INFO:

dreamworld.com.au skypoint.com.au

The writer was a guest of Dreamworld. 67

QUEENSLAND

ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN KARA GEYER and her family enjoy an action-packed weekend at Mount Tamborine in the Gold Coast hinterland

iPads down and TV off! On the cusp of a significant family milestone, it was time to get in one last long weekend away before school resumed, and the weekly routine started again. Although this year’s routine would be very different for us as the youngest of two sons, five-year-old Gus, was starting school. Since relocating to Brisbane five years ago, we quickly discovered you are spoilt for choice when it comes to holiday spots within an hour or so drive, and we’re slowly working through a long list of recommendations. This time we headed south to the Scenic Rim region in the Gold Coast hinterland which delivered in spades, literally! After a 45-minute scenic drive we arrived at Tamborine Mountain and found the perfect place for the boys to run off some steam at the familyfriendly Witches Falls Winery. Located at North Tamborine, the winery has lush gardens and plenty of places for the kids to roam free. We had barely enough time to sit down at a picnic table we nabbed under avocado trees, before Max and Gus grabbed my phone. With the Picture This app opened, they were off to see how many plant varieties they could find. Knowing the boys would be busy for a while, we could relax and enjoy the wine tasting with Tyler from the cellar door team. While we sipped, she shared the winery’s passion for creating its three distinctive wine ranges – Granite Belt, Wild Ferment and Prophecy – which were consumed alongside a DIY platter from the Jambreen Cheese range. We then explored the Glow Worm Caves at Cedar Creek Estate, just five minutes’ drive up the road – the only place in Queensland where you can see glow worms during the day. The only way to experience this purpose-built cave is on a guided tour, which leaves every 30 minutes. After a short 68

walk through the rainforest, we entered the first chamber for the audiovisual presentation about the life cycle of a glow worm. No cameras, quiet voices, and good listening ears are required as you make your way through into chamber two of this delicate environment. Fascinated by the twinkling glow worms, but not a fan of the dark, Gus squeezed my hand tightly. Nine-year-old Max, meanwhile, was happy flying solo, thoroughly consumed by the spectacle of it all. It was his face aglow as we made our way back out into the light. Our base for the two-night stay was a stylish two-bedroom self-contained lodge at Cedar Creek Lodges, located on the 112ha adventure property, Thunderbird Park. It was the ideal accommodation for our family. The kids each had their own bed to

Stay at Cedar Creek Lodges

QUEENSLAND

CLOCKWISE: Max and Jason afetr successfully completing the Tree Top Adventure Park, Max ready to capture the view from the hot air balloon with his GoPro HERO8, The cellar door at Witches Falls Winery, Tamborine Mountain Glow Worm Caves, A waterfall at Tamborine Mountain Glow Worm Caves

QUEENSLAND

crash into, which is exactly what they did after such jam-packed days. And we could still sit and unwind together in the lounge room. But best of all, there was a washing machine. Although I had packed enough clothes for a week, it was humid, and we got wet and muddy. Even our shoes needed a wash to recover at the end of each day! Over the course of the weekend we enjoyed many family first adventures, including digging with picks and spades and fossicking for treasures amongst prehistoric lava in the Thunderegg mine until we had blisters on our hands, determined to find the most amazing egg-shaped volcanic rock to have cut and polished and take home as a memento. Watching Max confidently climb onto a horse for the first time and clip-clop off into the rainforest in front of dad on the trail ride was another

highlight. Gus and I stayed back so he could do laps on the pony. It was here that I was reminded, for the first of many times during our stay, just how vital the patience and experience of the instructors is when it comes to safety. As a mum, it really made me feel at ease. The kids also delighted in scoring a hole-in-one on the adventure mini-golf course, feeding the lorikeets, playing chess, and heading off into the rainforest in their harness to complete the Tree Top Challenge. Watching the sunrise over the Gold Coast hinterland in a hot air balloon also felt like a oncein-a-lifetime experience. It was an early start, but one worth getting up for. As we floated towards our champagne breakfast at O’Reilly’s Canungra Valley Vineyards, and the cheeky alpacas that awaited, an expert team of pilots from Hot Air Balloon Gold

CLOCKWISE: The entrance to the Thunderegg mine, Gus enjoying a chat and a pony ride at Thunderbird Park, Gus focused on the job at the Tree Top Junior course

QUEENSLAND

Inside a lodge at Cedar Creek Lodges

GETTING THERE: Tamborine Mountain is an hour’s drive from Brisbane and only 30 minutes from the Gold Coast.

STAYING THERE:

Cedar Creek Lodges at Thunderbird Park has unpowered and powered camping sites, cabins, hotel rooms and selfcontained lodges. cedarcreeklodges.com. au

EATING THERE:

Someone got a hole-in-one

Coast shared fantastic facts about ballooning. We had done it, we had all been genuinely connected by our experiences with no tech for the kids for three whole days – besides Max using his new GoPro HERO8 and its app to capture all the action. It sat atop his safety helmet and was so easy to use that we almost forgot it was there, but thankfully we have the videos to prove it. At the end of the weekend, as we drove out of Thunderbird Park, Max wound down his window in the back seat and yelled, “best three days ever!” The writer was a guest of Destination Gold Coast and was a recipient of a GoPro HERO8.

Three Little Pigs Bar and Bistro, in the main street of Mount Tamborine, is a trendy little restaurant described as ‘fine dining in a rustic setting’. We recommend the slow roasted pork belly, although the boys will tell you to order the fish and chips. Fox and Hounds Country Inn is an authentic English pub with friendly staff and a great atmosphere at the base of Tamborine Mountain. If you’re lucky, you’ll be serenaded, with a unique bagpipe rendition of Baby Shark, as you enter! The Inn regularly

hosts family-friendly special events. foxandhounds.net.au Cedar Creek Lodges Rainforest Restaurant & Lounge Bar, on-site at Thunderbird Park, offers everything from breakfast with the birds to an extensive tapas-style lunch and dinner menu in a tranquil rainforest setting. You can even book a shuttle bus to get there. thunderbirdpark.com/ rainforest-restaurant Fortitude Brewing Co. has free live music on the weekends, making it a great place to enjoy a relaxing afternoon in the beer garden while you work your way through a tasting paddle or one of the 15 beers on tap, accompanied by a delicious, made-to-order pizza. They also serve wine from local wineries, Witches Falls and Bird Dog Wines. fortitudebrewing.com. au

MORE INFO:

destinationgoldcoast. com/places-to-see/mttamborine

AUSTRALIA

TINY HOUSE,

! e r u t n e v big ad MEG LAW finds a family of four can stay in an ecofriendly tiny house and live to tell the tale

The kids on the steps of the tiny house at Walden in NSW

THE ULTIMATE FAMILY GETAWAY ENTAILS ADVENTURE, NATURE, WILDERNESS, SIMPLICITY AND QUALITY TIME WITH THE KIDS 72

AUSTRALIA

Reconnecting with nature and each other at Sancho in Hepburn

It was at a dinner party with friends that we realised we were different. When discussion turned to the perfect family holiday, a tropical island with white sand beaches, cocktails and a 24/7 kids club was the outright winner. My husband and I were outvoted. We looked at each other across the table and grinned in silent amusement as we reminisced about the holidays we had taken with our kids, aged three and seven – snow shoeing, skiing, caving, kayaking. For us, the ultimate family getaway entails adventure, nature, wilderness, simplicity and quality time with the kids. The next morning our tiny house adventure was born. Over ten days, we stayed in three different tiny houses in NSW and Victoria with In2TheWild Tiny Holidays. Our first house was called Walden, near Bungonia National Park in the NSW Southern Tablelands. The kids raced each other to the farm gates and swung them open in anticipation. “Mum, it’s REALLY tiny!”, my daughter shrieked. This was followed by raucous laughter and high-pitched screams as we took in the cute (and indeed VERY tiny) blue timber-clad cubby house, perched gallantly in the middle of an open field. But what the house lacked in size, it made up for in charm. The native bushland that surrounded it relieved my inner claustrophobic, and I had a sudden urge to run through the bush like Max in Where the Wild Things Are. The kids clambered out of the car and raced to the door, getting excited about the ladder that led to the attic bedroom, the drop toilet that “looks like a real toilet”, the hidden shower and the novelty of all four of us sleeping together in one room. Meanwhile, I was enamoured with the interior design and attention to detail, including polished floorboards, large windows and the most stunning décor including lanterns, cushions, throws and books. It was like a luxe hotel room – only a little on the smaller side. That night we cooked marshmallows on the campfire before bunking down the kids and enjoying some ‘couple time’ with a

local pinot, under a blanket of stars. Simple living at its best, with no distractions… ahhh, how’s the serenity? Oh, and it also happened to have a boutique winery next door (#winning), as well as an eco-acquaponic micro-farm that grows amazing produce. Our next tiny house, Edmond, proved to be my favourite. Perched on a hilltop at Robertson in the NSW Southern Highlands, surrounded by more than 40ha of lush green meadows and overlooking a huge escarpment, this place took my breath away. Aside from a few friendly cows, wombats and kangaroos, we had it completely to ourselves. I loved waking in the loft bedroom and seeing the clouds floating overhead through the skylight window. Once we settled in, we didn’t want to leave. But there are also plenty of enticing options nearby, including a cheese factory, local produce store and the double vertical drop waterfall, Belmore Falls, in Morton National Park. Over the border in Victoria, the last house on our adventure, Sancho, was

A birdseye view from the tiny house loft at Edmond in NSW

voted favourite by our two mini-explorers, thanks to the resident billy goats and kangaroos, and because it offered the best stargazing experience. Less than 90 minutes’ drive northwest of Melbourne, and completely off the grid in a secluded paddock with views over bushland and dams, Sancho is the best wilderness adventure money can buy. Nearby attractions include Trentham Falls, which is one of the longest single drop waterfalls in Victoria, and Wombat State Forest, where you can 4WD, bushwalk or horse ride. By now, both kids had deemed themselves to  73

AUSTRALIA

Running amok at Edmond in the Southern Highlands

LIVING IN A SMALL SPACE WAS A NOVELTY FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY

Inside the tiny house at Walden

Mum enjoying the solitude of her tiny house loft at Edmond

be tiny house travel experts, scaling the ladder to bed each night at record speed, and having marshmallow cook-offs. During our trip, the most common question we heard from locals was: “How do you squeeze a family of four into a tiny house without killing each other?” We quickly decided to unpack only what we needed and leave everything else in the car. There were lots of hidden drawers, ample cupboards and even storage underneath the beds, which helped. It’s hard to holiday these days without feeling the pressures of our grief-stricken planet, but these ecofriendly homes cleverly contain everything you could need and leave minimal impact on the environment – thanks to solar panels, composting toilets and low-impact living. We took pleasure in the simple things, like watching the kids wake up at first light and reach their fingers over to write in the condensation on the window, stargazing around the fire pit at night, and reading in a hammock. At the end of the trip, we noticed a difference in the kids. Their curiosity levels were heightened. From the back seat of the car, they asked us loads of questions about wildlife and nature. They seemed more present, self-aware, calm, happy and content in each other’s company. Not touching a device or watching TV in 10 days hadn’t even bothered them. Back seat squabbling had lessened, and there was more merriment. Living in a small space was a novelty for the whole family, and we shared many moments of hilarity – from nudie runs to the shower to billy goats knocking on our window each morning. Watching the sunset, building a campfire, admiring the beauty of the night sky and lying huddled together listening to the creatures of the night (combined with dad’s snoring!) … this trip was all about delighting in the simple things in life. The writer was a guest of In2TheWild Tiny Holidays. MORE INFO: In2thewild Tiny Holidays has several tiny houses suitable for families for rent in NSW and Victoria. Visit in2thewild.co

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU

AWESOME EXPERIENCES IN HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU On Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido – known for its epic powder snow – the ski-in, ski-out Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU is bursting with family fun. Here are five things for your itinerary.

Snowshoeing at the Gao Outdoor Center

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU

1. SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING

Located on the ‘Hokkaido powder belt’, an inland area famous for its fresh, dry powder, Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU has 29 runs stretching across nearly 124ha of skiable terrain. All abilities are catered for, with 30 per cent of runs suitable for beginners, 40 per cent intermediate and 30 per cent advanced. The Adventure Mountain snow park is ideal for kids to learn how to ski. There are lots of great tree skiing opportunities within the boundary of the resort, as well as an experts-only powder area for experienced skiers, but they need to register at the reception desk first, wear a helmet and armband and have a fully charged mobile phone. From Tomamu, you can also visit nearby resorts. Mount Racey Ski Area, Furano Ski Resort and Sahoro Resort are all less than 1.5 hours away by car or bus, while Hoshino Resorts OMO7 Asahikawa is around two hours’ drive. Kamui Ski Links can be reached in 30 minutes, and Asahidake and Kurodake take around 90 minutes.

2. SNOW KARTING Snow karting

Corduroy snow in Tomamu

Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU is home to the longest snow kart course in Japan, taking guests on a thrilling 4,200m ride down the slopes on what can best be described as a bike with skis. The experience begins at the Unkai Gondola stop, which is also the location of the Terrace of Frost Tree – an area where you can stop to admire the frost-covered trees dotted across the mountainside. Note: The gondola will be closed for maintenance from March 1, 2021, so be sure to visit before then!

3. ICE VILLAGE

With temperatures reaching -30°C, Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU is the perfect place for an Ice Village. It has everything from an ice chapel, carved out of a single piece of ice, where couples wed, to a super fun ice slippery slide that kids love. Every night at 7pm, spectacular fireworks light up the sky. You can also play musical instruments made of ice before warming yourself with a hot drink and cheese 76

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU

Year-round water fun at Mina-Mina Beach

MINA-MINA BEACH HAS ONE OF THE LARGEST WAVE POOLS IN JAPAN fondue by the fire at the Ice Bakery & Café. The Ice Sweets Shop sells cold treats such as milk gelato made on an ice slab, while the new Ice Crystal Park has chairs in the shape of snowflakes. Feeling brave? Why not book a night in the Ice Hotel, where even the bed is made of ice? The experience also includes a soak in the hot springs at Yunosawa Onsen in neighbouring Shimukappu Village.

4. MINA-MINA BEACH

For a break from the cold, head to this glass-encased aquatic centre, where the temperature never goes below 30°C. It boasts one of the largest wave pools in Japan at 80m long, as well as a kids’ pool filled with colourful balls. ‘Mina’ means smile in the Ainu language, which is spoken by the people of northern Japan, and the attraction is sure to keep the whole family happy.

5. EATING AND DRINKING

From ramen to Italian, Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU ensures you can enjoy all of

the cultural experiences and cuisines you are comfortable with at home. There are 27 venues where you can relax and enjoy a meal at the resort. At the top of the mountain at the Terrace of Frost Tree, parents can try a snow cocktail decorated with rosemary to resemble a spruce tree, as well as a chocolate fondant with snow crystals made of white chocolate. One of the newest offerings is Italian noshery OTTO SETTE TOMAMU, which opened last July and showcases seasonal ingredients unique to Hokkaido. The island is surrounded by three seas, the Daisetsu Mountains and the Hidaka Mountains and climates differ greatly between the regions, as does local produce and its harvest times. The restaurant also offers a free childcare service for guests with children aged two to six-years-old, where they can enjoy meals from a special kids’ menu, while parents can relax knowing their children are being looked after by qualified and certified staff. Children will eat with cutlery crafted in Shimukappu, while the vegetables selected are naturally sweet to appeal to tiny taste buds.

An aerial view of Tomamu

GETTING THERE:

Hoshino Resorts TOMAMU is a 1.5 hour drive from New Chitose Airport, three hours’ drive from Asahikawa Airport and a 1.5 hour drive from the Furano resort area. SkyExpress offers chartered transfer services on the island. Visit skyexpress.jp

STAYING THERE:

Tomamu The Tower and RISONARE Tomamu are the two main hotels. The former consists of twin towers at the centre of Tomamu’s resort area, and has a rental store and a kids’ room beside the lobby, with a playground to keep children entertained while their parents check in. At RISONARE Tomamu, which is located on a hill and surrounded by conifer trees, all rooms are at least 100sq m with a sauna and spa bath overlooking scenic views. There is also a kids’ room, rental store, a souvenir shop selling alcohol, a book cafe and a courtyard with a fire pit.

MORE INFO: snowtomamu.jp

ASIA

M U LT IG E N E R AT IONA L

t n u a j n japa GRANT JONES finds a way to keep all members of the family happy on a holiday in Japan

Touring Japan with three generations of our family, after meeting in the middle from opposite sides of the globe, was always going to be a logistical challenge. Grandma regularly travels from the UK to Australia to visit her only grandson, a fast-growing 11-year-old. And we had been on holidays together before – two years prior, to Hawai‘i. On that

A walk through the bamboo forest was a highlight for all

occasion, grandma flew to Sydney and we travelled to Honolulu together for a relaxing week, surrounded by Englishspeaking locals, eating western food and exploring in a car driven by me. But we knew Japan would be an entirely different affair. Now 81-years-old, grandma would need a bit more attention, the food

would be a challenge, and the pace would be a bit more rigorous, as we planned to visit cultural attractions in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto; not just beaches, restaurants and shops. We arrived at Tokyo’s Narita International Airport equipped with four Japan Rail Passes – valid on some local railways, bus lines and most bullet

ASIA

trains – and headed to our tiny Airbnb. My partner and son made an early start to the famous Sensō-ji Buddhist temple in Asakusa district in Taitō while I headed to Haneda Airport to pick up grandma. I would do the same in reverse seven days, three cities, four Shinkansen trips, thousands of steps, numerous temples, several welcome cups of English tea, and various unfamiliar dishes later. Taking grandma straight to Sensō-ji temple was a good place to start, as it offered something for everyone – ancient buildings, rows of reasonable quality tourist trinkets, including clothing and keepsakes, plus an impressive brass bell and lovely temple grounds. Another Tokyo highlight was Tokyo Skytree, which offered a bird’s eye view of Tokyo, a Pokemon store and other outlets. We also enjoyed Shibuya for its great shops, food and funky buskers, as well as its Shinto shrine to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and Meiji Jingu Museum, surrounded by a 100-year-old man-made forest. Unfortunately, my choice of a raw chicken restaurant for dinner that night wasn’t quite as popular. In Kyoto, the Golden Temple appealed to all, and I ticked Nishiki Market, with its 100-plus restaurants, shops and produce stalls, off my bucket list. Plus, there was yet another Pokemon store nearby. At the Fushimi Inari-taisha, grandma was happy to look at the thousands of red torii gates from the bottom of the shrine, while my son and I climbed the 12,000 steps to the top. The impressive 16th-century shogunate Osaka Castle was also a hit all ‘round, and we even got grandma on a wild ride at The Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios, despite an hour-long wait. We found that the secret to a multigenerational holiday was to include something for everyone, and to do it at the right pace. We would find somewhere my son could explore without getting too bored, offer grandma a reasonable rest in between excursions, and factor in some free time in the itinerary so either parent could hit a shopping strip, while grandma wrote postcards and enjoyed a cup of tea,

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Grandma with a sumo wrestler, At the Golden Temple, The family witnessed a Shinto wedding ceremony at the Meiji Shrine in Tokyo

GRANT’S TOP TIPS FOR A MULTIGENERATIONAL HOLIDAY IN JAPAN

either in our accommodation or in a cafe. Back in Tokyo, my son and I went on an early morning hunt for sumo wrestlers while mum and grandma slept in. On our last night we walked through the buzzing entertainment district of Roppongi before finding a treat of sushi and skewers which pleased everyone, including grandma, who was even able to offer an arigato (thank you) by trip’s end. MORE INFO: jnto.org.au. japanrailpass.net/en

• Choose accommodation close to train stations • Be warned that low beds can be difficult for the elderly • Have a special ticket pocket or keeper of tickets – it saves them being misplaced • Plan a daily itinerary but allow for change when required if someone is tired • Let everyone choose something in the itinerary • Give everyone a break, morning or afternoon • Choose accommodation with a kitchenette/tea facilities • Getting on and off Shinkansen (bullet trains) quickly and safely with kids, the elderly and luggage can be a challenge

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH INTREPID TRAVEL AND TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

THINGS I LEARNED TRAVELLING WITH MY FIVE-YEAR-OLD DYAN MCKIE found a trip to Thailand was the perfect way to expand her daughter’s curious and inquisitive mind

It might have been years since I left school, but on my last holiday, it was like I was back in a classroom – without the four walls! My five-year-old daughter, Beatrice, and I travelled to Thailand on one of Intrepid Travel’s Family Holidays, which are crafted for people with young kids, teenagers and solo parents. Here are five things I discovered during the trip.

1. A GOOD LEADER IS WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD An overseas holiday with kids can easily transform into series of unforgettable memories – or show-and-tell stories. But

Beatrice at a temple with Intrepid leader Ae 80

when you have the world to explore and a local leader to show you the way, it becomes a different ball game. Being a mother herself, our leader was able to relate to the children and read the signs when they were tired or needed a break. She encouraged the children to immerse themselves in all experiences. One of the more memorable ones was at the Buddhist temple, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, in Chiang Mai province, where she invited the children to meet the local monk and find their birth statue. Thailand just has so much to offer; from the local language and the customs and culture to life in the rural villages, there’s nothing short of things to inspire the kids.

Dyan and Beatrice at Doi Suthep temple in Chiang Mai

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH INTREPID TRAVEL AND TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

2. PERSONAL EXPERIENCES ENCOURAGE ADVOCACY

Beatrice making new friends in Chiang Mai

Firsthand experiences are considered one of the most immersive ways for kids to learn. With included activities like visiting an elephant sanctuary on the trip, young minds can learn about the importance of animal welfare, and how to be friends with all creatures while caring for them too. I really do love elephants, but I also loved the educational piece. Seeing how these magnificent creatures are rehabilitated and cared for is amazing, and the kids came away having a better understanding about how to look after animals in a respectful way. Intrepid Travel’s take on animal welfare is industry leading and, in 2014, the company removed elephant rides from all trips. “The ChangChill Elephant Sanctuary was the best because it’s also my mum’s favourite animal,” Beatrice says. “I fed them bananas and walked near them, but not too close. We learnt why we shouldn’t ride them, too.” 

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH INTREPID TRAVEL AND TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

3. HOMESTAYS MAKE THE BEST SLEEPOVERS

Beatrice at the homestay

Image: Intrepid Travel

Picture what your dream sleepover might have looked like as a child – then throw in traditional Thai dancing, learning about the environment and local agricultural practices, wandering through the village to visit neighbouring farm animals and a home-cooked dinner to finish it off. At the homestay, we had locally-made mango sticky rice – it was the best! All our meals where we stayed in the village of Ban Hua Tung in Chiang Mai were delightful in both taste and ambience. The kids also loved it.

4. THE JOURNEY IS THE DESTINATION

WHEN SHE OPENS UP, SHE TURNS INTO A DIFFERENT PERSON

Top: The Grand Palace in Bangkok Bottom: Noodles were one of Beatrice’s favourite dishes in Thailand 82

Long car journeys back home can be tiring, but on this trip I discovered that getting there is half the fun. It was Beatrice’s first time on an overnight train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok – and she loved sleeping on the top bunk – so the whole thing turned into an experience she’ll never forget. I loved watching Beatrice play cards with everyone, because she can be shy at first. When she opens up, she turns into a different person. “I was a bit nervous travelling with other kids, because I didn’t know them,” she says. “But then I got used to them and it was really fun.”

5. A CURE FOR FUSSY EATERS

Indulging tiny taste buds isn’t an easy task, but when teamed with a new destination and hands-on experiences, dinner at home might never be the same. “My favourite food was the fruit on a stick, the noodles and chicken and the pancakes,” Beatrice says. “I liked helping at the cooking school too.” Dyan Mckie is Intrepid Travel’s brand and product manager – family adventures. MORE INFO: intrepidtravel.com/au/theme/family amazingthailand.com.au

Image: Harriniva Hotels & Safaris

FINLAND

Enjoy an exciting husky ride

1. GO SLEDDING WITH HUSKIES

ELISA ELWIN reveals five reasons to visit Finnish Lapland, in the country’s north, during the colder months

LAPLAND WINTER WONDERLAND

A family-favourite, husky sledding is an experience everyone will love. The excited barking of the dogs is your welcome. You will be trained in the simple art of managing your team and sled, with a short lesson on steering and braking – and your canine friends will take care of the rest. Dog care is paramount, and there will be time to thank your team with cuddles and pats at the end of your ride. Nothing can prepare you for the exhilaration of gliding across the winter wonderland, and small children can sit safely on an adult lap on the sled. 

FINLAND

2. SANTA LIVES THERE

Imagine your childrens’ faces when they visit Santa in his North Pole home! The man with the lush beard and gentle “Ho! Ho! Ho”, dressed in red and ready to listen to your child’s wishes, is a dream come true when you visit Finnish Lapland. The Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi hosts Santa Claus visits year-round. Christmas is a magical time to visit, with Santa in residence at many of the resorts and guesthouses sprinkled throughout the Lapland wilderness.

SANTA CLAUS’ POST OFFICE HAS RECEIVED LETTERS FROM 199 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES, WITH HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF LETTERS ARRIVING EACH YEAR. HIS ADDRESS IS: SANTA CLAUS, SANTA CLAUS’S MAIN POST OFFICE, 96930 NAPAPIIRI, FINLAND. 84

FINLAND

Repo Sauna overlooks Lake Jeris

GETTING THERE:

Finland’s national carrier, Finnair, offers flights from Finland’s southern capital Helsinki to Rovaniemi and Ivalo in the north. finnair.com

3. SAUNA TOGETHER

TOURING THERE:

Sauna is a national pastime for the Finnish people, with over three million saunas to 5.5 million Finns! Sauna is a time to relax, to cleanse both your body and mind, and a time to gather together. Suitable for everyone, except babies and those with medical conditions, sauna is a fun – and steamy – family ritual. To experience sauna at its best, visit Arctic Sauna World, which opened in January 2020. Situated on Lake Jeris, Arctic Sauna World is based on Finnish mythology and folktales incorporating the elements of earth, water, air and fire. Spend hours in each of the five saunas while watching the Northern Lights. Even take the ice plunge in freezing Lake Jeris if you dare!

50 Degrees North has an excellent range of family tours to Finnish Lapland. fiftydegreesnorth.com

STAYING THERE:

Harriniva Hotels and Safaris has a variety of accommodation options in Harriniva, Lake Jeris and Torassieppi. harriniva.fi

MORE INFO:

visitfinland.com

Images: Harriniva Hotels & Safaris

4. GAZE AT THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

Dancing and flashing across the sky in vast swathes of green, pink, yellow, blue, violet and, occasionally, orange and white, this natural spectacle is also known as the Aurora Borealis – magical dancing lights that can appear more than 200 nights a year in Northern Finland. The auroras form at altitudes over 100km and are created by electronically charged particles, originating from the sun. Multi-coloured displays form when different atmospheric gases are agitated by the solar wind.Most accommodations host Northern Lights tours, taking you away from any ambient light for a vivid view. Wilderness Hotel Inari offers guests an alert buzzer to notify when the lights are visible, creating great excitement and a mass exodus when the ‘buzzers’ all go off, as everyone scrambles into their outdoor gear to capture this spectacle!

5. RIDE IN A REINDEER SLEIGH

Long before Santa discovered Rudolph, wooden sleighs were an essential mode of transportation for the Sámi, the Indigenous people of Finland. Now a popular tourist experience, you can take a sleigh ride, wrapped warmly under hides, and glide through the winter forest. Rides usually last from 10 minutes to a few hours. Reindeer rides are generally shorter than husky rides and are ideal for small children.

Ride a reindeer sleigh in Torassieppi

The writer travelled as a guest of Finnair and 50 Degrees North

SOUTH PACIFIC

10 Add one of these awesome experiences to your Fiji bucket list

FUN THINGS TO DO IN FIJI

1. VISIT A PRIVATE ISLAND

RELAX IN A BEANBAG OR IN A HAMMOCK ON THE WHITE SANDY BEACH WHILE THE KIDS PLAY 86

Take a day trip to explore the beautiful private island, Tivua, with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji entertained by the friendly staff playing live Fijian tunes en route. Tours depart Denarau Marina aboard the tall ship Ra Marama or luxurious catamaran Fiji One at 10am, or the more leisurely 11.30am. Upon arrival, take part in a traditional welcoming kava ceremony and then spend the day embarking on a range of activities. Or simply relax in a beanbag or in a hammock on the white sandy beach while the kids play. Escorted by a marine biologist, view the colourful underwater world on a guided snorkelling trip over amazing reefs and clam gardens, or stay dry and see the sea life from a glass bottom boat. Go kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding

around the island, play volleyball, or join a guided herbal medicine nature walk. A complimentary Captain Kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Club is available for 90 minutes during the day, with activities such as treasure hunts, sandcastle building and sports. Guests will enjoy a tropical buffet lunch including fish, chicken, sausages, salads and fruit before a coconut husking demonstration, basket weaving, afternoon tea and more music and entertainment on the return journey. Captain Cook also offers a range of three to 11-night cruises throughout the Fijian islands in which families can visit remote villages and schools, attend a church service and partake in a traditional sevusevu ceremony, meke and lovo feast. During the school holidays, the ship is often filled with families so kids have other children to play with. captaincookcruisesfiji.com

SOUTH PACIFIC

Every year thousands of whales migrate north from Antarctica to breed and give birth in the warmer waters off Australia’s coast. Humpback whales can travel as far as North Queensland and Western Australia’s Kimberley region, while southern right whales can be sighted around the Great Australian Bight and up towards Cape Byron on the east coast. If you are lucky you may even spot an orca or rare blue whale. Here are some of the best places to go to maximise your chances of a whaley cool encounter this season.

VICTORIA

The gentle giants can be spotted from purpose-built viewing platforms, clifftops and rocky outcrops along the Great Ocean Rd and Gippsland’s south coast, but the best viewing can be found in and around Portland, Warrnambool and Phillip Island. Walk, ride or drive along the Bass Coast Whale Discovery Trail from Eagles Nest in the east to Cowes on Phillip Island to find the best bays, headlands and beaches to view them from. They include Summerland, which also boasts the world’s largest colony of Little Penguins, Pyramid Rock and Cape Woolamai. Interpretive signs along the way give interesting insights into the lives of whales and their behaviour.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Kangaroo Island, the Fleurieu Peninsula and the Eyre Peninsula are all great places to try your luck. From Victor Harbor’s Encounter Bay, around an hour’s drive from Adelaide, you can embark on a tour on The Big Duck - an 11 metre-long rigid inflatable boat, purpose-built for Southern Ocean conditions. The tour route varies depending on where the whales are choosing to hang out at the time, but all start from Granite Island causeway and travel around the headlands and on to Horseshoe Bay towards Basham Beach, where whales can often be found in the warm shallow water, which provides the perfect conditions for females to give birth.

Performers with dance sticks at Fiji Untold

2. SEE A MODERN CULTURAL PERFORMANCE Enjoy traditional stories being told in modern and innovative ways with Fun Hub Fiji’s evening show, Fiji Untold. Performed by the acclaimed VOU Dance Company, the circus-like spectacle takes place each evening in the 450-seat Big Top Arena, just minutes from Denarau Island in Nadi.

The experience begins with acrobatic displays in the trees as you are led into the foyer, before the story unfolds of a young girl, of chiefly Fijian heritage, who is plunged into a journey of self-discovery that takes her far from home. The brainchild of husband and wife duo Sachiko

and Edward Soro, who also founded VOU, Big Top Fiji is the first of five unique arts venues the couple plans to create. Fiji Untold is staged at the Big Top Arena every week Wednesday to Sunday from 8pm to 10pm. vouhubfiji.com

SOUTH PACIFIC

3. WATCH A FIREDANCING EXTRAVAGANZA

Marvel at a spectacular firedancing performance at Robinson Crusoe Island Resort, off the Coral Coast. Shows are held every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, with evening performances every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Located on Likuri Island, Robinson Crusoe offers many other memorable cultural experiences in a laidback beachside setting, such as herbal medicine tours and coconut tree climbing demonstrations, as well as watersports like snorkelling and kayaking. Robinson Crusoe’s mainland jetty is located close to Natadola Beach, a 45-minute drive from Nadi. From there it’s

a 30-minute cruise down the Tuva River to get to the resort., where you can stay in one of 14 Fijian bungalows, known as bures. robinsoncrusoeislandfiji. com

4. SABETO MUD POOLS

Forget the resort pool – cake yourself in mud before soaking in the three hot springs, which range from comfortably warm to so hot you can boil an egg in them, at Sabeto Mud Pools. Located halfway between Nadi and Lautoka, the rustic attraction in the lush Sabeto Valley is administered by residents of a nearby village. It will make a great family holiday snap for Facebook or Instagram! aquatoursfiji.com

Book before June 30 2020 & F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E

FIJI DISCOVERY CRUISES Take the whole family on a voyage of discovery and fun around the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands or remote Northern Fiji aboard the 130-passenger, MV Reef Endeavour.

captaincookcruisesfiji.com

*Purchase 2 full price fares and get 50% off the 2nd fare. Valid for sale from 1 April to 30 June 2020 with travel to 31 March 2021. You must quote promotion code FAM25 at the time of booking. Valid for porthole cabin and ocean stateroom only. Limited availability. Valid on new bookings only. **For a family of 4 (2A + 2C (5-17yrs) 7 nights.

2nd PERSON CRUISES 1/2 PRICE . Families save up to $2769**

See a firedancing performance at Robinson Crusoe Island

SOUTH PACIFIC

Image: Chris McLennan-Tourism Fiji

Go ziplining

6. GO ZIPLINING 5. SIGATOKA RIVER SAFARI

Take a thrilling jetboat ride and visit a traditional Fijian village to get an authentic taste of local life on an award-winning half-day tour with Sigatoka River Safari. The tour includes a super fun ride aboard a custom-built safari jet boat down the river, which runs from the hills of the Navosa Province down to the sand dunes in Kulukulu, on the Coral Coast. After donning life jackets and a safety briefing you will board the boat and hear about the history of the region, including its cannibal past. Children from villages that line the river wave as you cruise past. After a warm welcome at the village you will visit the chief’s bure or community hall and take part in a kava ceremony, before a tour of the village and a traditional lunch, including fresh tropical fruit, followed by Fijian singing and dancing. Sigatoka River Safari visits a different village every day in an attempt to minimise the impact of tourism on the lifestyle in this remote part of the world. sigatokariver.com

Soar through the air and explore rainforests, canyons and caves with Zip Fiji’s newest zipline. Located just 35 minutes’ from Nadi, 16 ziplines take thrillseekers on a 5km adventure covering three eco-systems. The upper part of the mountain is abundant with old growth vesi trees, which are used to make the bowls for kava ceremonies. Then transition to the lower section of the mountain, which is filled with raintrees, before enjoying lunch in a limestone cave. The company has a second location at Pacific Harbour where you can experience a 2km ride on eight ziplines above the canopy and the Wainadoi River Valley. Each platform has a unique Fijian name inspired by the view. zip-fiji.com

7. KULA WILD ADVENTURE PARK

Children with a Fijian crested iguana at Kula WILD Adventure Park

Meet beautiful bright green Fijian crested iguanas and other cute critters, including parrots and turtles, at Kula WILD Adventure Park. You can also frolic on waterslides and soar above the rainforest on the zipline, plus there’s a splash pool for kiddies with water shooting from different directions and spilling from a dump bucket. www.fijiwild.com

SOUTH PACIFIC

Meet the marine life snorkelling in Fiji

Image: Tourism Fiji

8. GUIDED SNORKELLING TOURS

Explore Fiji’s incredible underwater world on a tour with Reef Safari, which operates throughout the west of Fiji, from the Coral Coast to the Mamanuca Islands, all the way up to the Yasawas. Learn how the reef was formed and how coral feeds, grows and breeds and see a range of tropical fish going about their daily business. If you’re new to snorkelling, then a snorkel safari is also a terrific way to ease a few of those nerves, with guides happy to hold first-timers’ hands. reefsafari.com 90

LEARN HOW THE REEF WAS FORMED AND HOW CORAL FEEDS, GROWS AND BREEDS

SOUTH PACIFIC

9. ECO TRAX ADVENTURE

Jump on a modified electrical bicycle carriage and follow the old sugar railway line past the stunning scenery of the Coral Coast on a tour with Eco Trax. The guided journey begins with a safety briefing and history talk before taking you past beautiful beaches, rivers, rainforests, mangroves, fields and villages, with lots of animals and friendly locals along the way. The electric function means you can pedal or not, depending how much energy you want to use. Stop to swim in clear turquoise water, snack on fresh fruit and sip on coconut drinks while lying back on an inflatable couch, before the return trip. ecotrax.com.fj

Ride the rails at Eco Trax Fiji

10. VISIT A CULTURAL VILLAGE

See fire walkers from Beqa Island scramble over hot stones at the Pacific Harbour Arts Village, near Suva. The cultural village also gives visitors the chance to interact with locals in a friendly environment and learn about their arts and customs, with traditional Fijian dances called meke and re-enactments of ancient Fijian legends. Fire walking performances are held from Wednesday to Saturday. artsvillage.com.fj 91

EUROPE

The Bernina Express in Switzerland

RIDE THE RAILS (AND SAVE THE PLANET!)

With ‘flight shaming’ the new buzz phrase in travel, ELISA ELWIN reveals journeying by train is a great way to see Europe with kids

A family enjoying a kidfriendly carriage

As people become increasingly conscious of their impact on the environment, train travel is growing exponentially in popularity. Sure, living on an island like Australia we have little choice but to fly to places like Europe, but once we are there, getting around by rail is a great option. Europe’s rail network is one of the safest and most modern in the world, with more than 250,000km of tracks taking you everywhere from seaside towns to ski resorts and from major cities

to remote villages. Here are six reasons to hop on a train for your European family holiday.

1. GREATER COMFORT

Who wants to be stuck in a cramped, full plane jostling for space in the overhead compartments with kids? On board trains, you will find spacious carriages with large seats, plus room for luggage. You can head to the bar-buffet car at any time during your journey.

EUROPE

Take in the sights in comfort

2. EASY AND STRESS-FREE

All the main train stations in Europe are located in the heart of cities and benefit from excellent connections with other public transport options, such as local train networks, taxis and buses. Avoid transfers, long queues at crowded airports and the stress of driving in another country.

3. ECO-FRIENDLY

This is the big one! A train generates up to 10 times less CO2 than a plane, and Eurostar journeys are even carbon neutral! The International Transport Forum reported that the average CO2 emissions of high-speed trains in Europe per passenger/km do not exceed 17g, compared to 153g for planes.

4.MEET THE LOCALS

One of the huge bonuses of train travel is itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great way to meet locals, as well as fellow travellers, and learn more about their culture. You may also get some tips for the destination you are about to visit.

5. MORE AFFORDABLE

Travelling by train is cheaper than by plane. Tickets can be very affordable when booked in advance and rail passes allow you to travel as much as you want and benefit from free bonuses. Up to two children aged from four to 11 travel for free with their parents on the Eurail Pass. In Switzerland, children under 16 also travel for free with a guardian using the

Swiss Travel Pass available with Rail Europe. Travelling in the off-season will also help you save money, while you enjoy even more of the luxury of space on the trains.

6. FAMILY BONDING TIME

Some trains in France, Switzerland and Finland have kid-friendly carriages with playrooms, providing a great opportunity for families to spend time together engaging in activities such as reading and colouring-in, in a relaxed setting, as they pass some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. On the TGV and Eurostar, you can also book four seats that face each other. (disclaimer) The writer travelled as a guest of Rail Europe.

TIPS FOR GETTING A GREAT DEAL

1. Book in advance. For the best deals, purchase your train tickets three months in advance, if possible. And to avoid your class of service being sold out. 2. Look out for deals online. Up to five free travel days on the Eurail Pass are usually released in February each year, and 20 per cent discounts are offered around November 3. Have a clear plan so you can determine if point-topoint tickets or a rail pass would best suit your trip â&#x20AC;&#x201C; knowing this could mean big savings

MORE INFO:

raileurope.com.au

SCOTLAND

BRIAN CRISP and his family follow the Harry Potter path on a free tour in Edinburgh

Image: Scotland-Kenny Lam

The view over Edinburgh Castle

It seems that Harry Potter’s wizardly skills extend to curing jetlag. After 30 hours on a plane, Zac and Molly, our 12-year-old twin niece and nephew, just wanted to sleep. Beaten into submission by their first international flight, they were crashed out on the lounge, totally. But everyone knows that the best remedy for jetlag is to get outside and start exploring – even if it is a five degree-celsius day in Edinburgh, Scotland. Aunty Ali poked them. She prodded them. Nothing. But when she uttered the magical words: “Do you want to do a Harry Potter tour?” it was as though they had swallowed a batch of polyjuice potion and transformed back to their normal loud and frenzied selves. Even though it is free (well, kind of), you still have to book the Harry Potter Tour, run by Orange Tours Edinburgh,

SCOTLAND

and as we were only in Scotland’s capital for just over a day there was no time for R&R after the flight. The 90-minute tour starts at 1.30pm daily from the Royal Mile, next to St Giles’ Cathedral. Edinburgh is the birthplace of Harry Potter. Writer JK Rowling sat at a table in the cosy Elephant House Cafe to write most of the first book, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone and, once you visit this city, it is obvious that she used much of its ancient backdrop to create the mysterious world so cleverly navigated by Harry, Ron and Hermione. There are several Harry Potter tours on offer in Edinburgh and, to be fair, they all rate well with travellers. I don’t think you can go wrong whichever one you choose. We walked along the streets that inspired Diagon Alley (Victoria St and Candlemaker Row); visited the real Hogwarts (George Heriot’s School); stood at the gravesites of Tom Marvolo Riddle (aka Lord Voldemort), and William McGonagall in Greyfriars Kirkyard; and tried the sorting hat to see 

Image: Ali Crisp

Victoria St in Edinburgh was the inspiration for Diagon Alley

Image: Scotland-Kenny Lam

WRITER JK ROWLING SAT AT A TABLE IN THE COSY ELEPHANT HOUSE CAFE TO WRITE MOST OF THE FIRST BOOK

Molly and Zac Lloyd at the gravestone of You Know Who

SCOTLAND

Edinburgh Castle

Image: VisitScotland-Kenny Lam

The JK Rowling Suite at The Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh

if we belonged to Gryffindor, Ravenclaw, Slytherin or the yellow and black of Hufflepuff. “I liked the graveyard and how the tour guide explained how JK Rowling got the names for some of the characters,’’ an excited Molly, who hasn’t read the books but has watched the films, said. “It felt magical because you could see all the last names of the Harry Potter characters on the gravestones. The tour guide was great. She was very interactive and funny. I learnt a lot about how Harry Potter was created. There were Harry Potter shops in Diagon Alley. I bought two pens – one from Hufflepuff and one from Ravenclaw.’’ While Molly liked the shops, Zac was more impressed by Edinburgh’s history. “The buildings are so old compared with Australia,’’ he said. “And the stories our guide told us brought everything to life. It was like stepping back in time.’’ The tour, like the book series, finished at the Balmoral Hotel. JK Rowling stayed here, in room 552 (now called The Rowling Suite), to finish the final chapters of The Deathly Hallows. Our budget didn’t extend to the $1900 a night tariff, so we grabbed a traditional fish supper and headed home. 96

GETTING THERE:

Qantas, British Airways and Emirates fly daily from all Australian capital cities to Edinburgh

WHERE TO STAY:

Airbnb has a selection of centrally located properties in Edinburgh. We booked an apartment for $300 per night that slept 11 people, a 10-minute walk to the Royal Mile airbnb.com.au

FIVE OTHER THINGS FOR FAMILIES TO DO IN EDINBURGH 1

Edinburgh knows how to turn on a Christmas celebration. The colourful Christmas market usually runs from midNovember through to the first weekend of January, and features European-style stalls, Santa workshops and carol singing

Built in the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle sits on Edinburgh Rock, and attracts one million visitors each year. You can’t miss it, as it dominates the city skyline. Arrive early to beat the crowds

Thank goodness the Ghostly Underground Vaults tour happens during the day, otherwise it might just be too scary. The guide, dressed in a long cloak, delights all by telling the gory tales of Edinburgh’s past. Participants must be older than five

It is an oldie, but a goodie. The Hop-On Hop-Off bus is the perfect way to get your bearings in Edinburgh. Make sure you get off at Edinburgh’s famous zoo

Nothing is as it seems as you wander around the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions at Castlehill on the Royal Mile. There are five floors to explore with more than 100 illusions. If you start at the top you get 360-degree views of Edinburgh

TOURING THERE:

Orange Tours Edinburgh’s free Harry Potter Tour runs at 1.30pm daily. It is expected you will tip the guide about £10 per person (AUD$20) for his or her time, depending on how much you enjoyed the tour freetourededinburgh. com

MORE INFO: Edinburgh.org

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

PLAN A

Lotte and Leni at Zayed Mosque

Having visited Abu Dhabi many times on stopovers, FLIP BYRNES finds thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always something new to do as her kids grow 97

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Image Mohamed Somji

Inside the Louvre’s plaza

Flip and the girls love exploring

Relaxing on a sun lounger in Abu Dhabi, dappled sun from palm fronds dance on my feet as I part them to spy on my two youngsters. They’re running towards the pool like golden labrador puppies let off the leash, shrieking as little bodies turbo through the shallow waters. Hmm, where would I rather be? A) on the second leg in 48G, halfway on a long-haul flight to Europe? Or B) here, waiting for a freshly squeezed orange juice while my three and four-year-olds burn volcanic amounts of energy? I’ll take B. Answer B doesn’t mean it’s Plan B. Whether on a stopover or a longer holiday, this desert emirate, one of seven that comprises the United Arab Emirates (and is in fact the capital) is made for kids. Which kids? Any kids. Having visited on stopovers with babies, toddlers, and now pre-schoolers, the Middle Eastern warm arms of welcome, and new parts of the city, unfolded as nap times changed and dropped, different hotels were explored, and new gems were 98

Image Mohamed Somji

The Louvre Abu Dhabi

built in the city (hello! The Louvre Abu Dhabi). And teenagers? Even their long-life batteries will be tested with all that’s on offer.

BABIES AND TODDLERS

Imagine this: while wallowing in the Ritz Carlton pool, directly across the river the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque looms like a white mirage, minarets gleaming – an otherworldly edifice of beauty that could easily pass for Jasmine’s palace in Aladdin. Abu Dhabi’s premier religious site is not just a visual fairytale for a three-year-old, but for adults it is a thing of swoon-worthy wonder that will stir the imagination and produce an almost visceral reaction. Let’s face it, travel with this set can be simply about survival; feeding, naps and, if there’s only one chance to peer into the local culture, a mosque visit is that portal. Plus, it’s only five minutes away from the hotel door. Distances for toddlers are like dog years – multiply by seven, so choose your location wisely (in this case, near downtown).

The stun of extreme beauty never fades, no matter how many times it’s sighted – and be at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque bang on 9am for maximum impact. Later it will remain cool under the midday sun beneath the white marble, with a little tickling zephyr around the ankles. The numbers are heady – the mosque boasts the world’s single largest carpet, the world’s third largest chandelier and acres of pure white Carrera stone. But none of this describes the serene peace within. Despite the quiet murmurs, my two are free to play chase amongst the 96 mother of pearl pillars, their giggles wafting like songbird notes towards the high ceilings. They revel running in the long corridors, eyes huge with wonder. In daylight it’s extraordinary, but by night dazzles with violet hues reflecting off the marble. Never rule out a 9pm visit before closing time at 10pm; if you have jet lagged kids, the wide expanses and smooth strollering makes for one the most sensational kid-tastic nighttime experiences in the world.

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

The girls at Hotel Yas Island Rotana

UNDER 10S

The world is your oyster! And you can delve further afield. With this age group there’s only one place to rest your weary head – the Yas Island Rotana. It’s only 15 minutes’ drive from the airport, has a heated wade-in pool, and is smack bang in the entertainment hub just a stroke from Warner Bros World, Ferrari World, Yas Marina Circuit and Yas Waterworld. The in-hotel kids’ play area is one of Abu Dhabi’s best, luring guests from other hotels (and locals) with its gargantuan ball pit, a two-storey obstacle course, slides and supervisors. Sold. Beeline for The Louvre Abu Dhabi. “What, oh what?” I hear you ask, “will a five-year-old enjoy at an art institution?” Only their own separate two-storey Children’s Museum, the floors connected by a mesh crawl tunnel swaying as it spirals up (I take the stairs). Free strollers, free entry for under 13s, and the current Costume Adventure interactive display (in turn, the girls dress in the thobe of Emirati women, a vibrant crimson ancient Greek draperie, Medieval doublet and kimono) make it a winner. With two children stuffed into a stroller, there’s even time to manage a Louvre by Pram Tour, poking noses into some of the 12 galleries until, alas, it ends – as many things do – when the snacks run out.

Flip and the girls at Zayed Mosque

TEENS

Start your engines … this is where Abu Dhabi gets high octane. There’s the Yas Kartzone; a behind-the-scenes tour at Yas Marina Circuit; Clymb, combining the world’s biggest indoor skydiving flight chamber and the world’s tallest indoor climbing wall (because one isn’t enough), and desert dune bashing in 4WDs. But the real action is at Warner Bros Park, Ferrari World (with the world’s fastest rollercoaster) and Yas Waterworld. The AUD$100 plus entry price for Yas Waterworld may seem a little steep for a few hours of toddler water play (and don’t be confused, a sign proclaiming ‘50 dirhams for nannies’ refers to an entry fee, not that they’ll appear like a genie in a bottle). But if you have a teenager, the 2 Days, 3 Parks Pass for 499 AED (AUD$220) is an entertainment one-purchase bargain. More than a two-day wonder, or stop over afterthought, the A in Abu Dhabi is a nudge to make it your holiday Plan A.

GETTING THERE:

If you’re flying with the national airline, Etihad, you can receive discounts of up to 20 per cent at participating attractions, restaurants, malls and tours when you show your boarding pass. etihad.com

DOING THERE:

Adult tickets to The Louvre Abu Dhabi are AUD2$7 and entry to Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is free. louvreabudhabi.ae szgmc.gov.ae

STAYING THERE:

Yas Island Rotana. Splurge on a Suite with separate living room (starting at AUD??$190). The classy yet casual on-site Indian restaurant, Rangoli, has a butter chicken that will tempt even the fussiest eater. Rotana.com

CELEBRITY Q&A

RIDING AROUND THE WORLD Tour de France cycling champion Cadel Evans, who also competed in mountain biking in the Olympics early in his career, finds he needs to pack much more than his bike for family holidays WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE FAMILY HOLIDAYS AND WHY? Recently we have had some amazing family trips to New York City, Utah and Thailand. A few years ago we holidayed in the Bahamas with my old teammate George Hincapie and his family. The Bahamas really is as spectacular as it looks in the pictures. We also finally visited Mauritius, where my partner Stefania’s mother is from. That was fantastic. DO YOU DO MUCH CYCLING OR MOUNTAIN BIKING WHILST ON FAMILY HOLIDAYS? With a young family, my free time to ride is now minimal. I often travel for cycling events so most of my riding is participating in those for now. We did have a great trip some years ago to Israel to retrace the path the Australian Light Horsemen took to the Battle of Beersheba, on mountain bikes. Robel was eight at the time, and he proudly rode all 150km with us. I spent most of the time fixing punctures from all the thorns, but as a quietly proud dad. YOUR SECOND SON, AIDAN, WAS BORN LAST YEAR. HOW HAS THAT CHANGED TRAVELLING AS A FAMILY? Whilst our family travel has not changed a lot, it has got more complicated! I often travel for work, and Stefania and Aidan accompany me when possible. I find travel is always more enjoyable when you can share it with someone close to you. Our biggest changes are logistical – we don’t only travel with a bike and luggage now, but also a baby jogger, car seat and, of course, nappies. YOU DIVIDE YOUR TIME BETWEEN BARWON HEADS IN VICTORIA AND THE SMALL TOWN OF STABIO IN SWITZERLAND. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THEM? Barwon Heads provides the ultimate lifestyle 100

for children, with beaches, playgrounds and some hills, as well as the Great Ocean Road for dad to ride. In Switzerland we are very close to the Italian border, and to my eldest son. From home I can ride to Lago Maggiore or Lago Como, with its history, scenery and the Italian culture, so it really is special. Being away from Australia does make me appreciate and miss it. We have a very, very good quality of life in Australia. WHERE ARE THE BEST PLACES IN THE WORLD TO RIDE AS A FAMILY? I may be biased, but the Great Ocean Road in Victoria really is one of the most beautiful coastal roads to ride on anywhere in the world. Highway 1 in Northern California and the Amalfi Coast come close, but the Great Ocean Road is still my favourite road ride in the world. We have some good mountain biking in the area as well, but I do not know the trails very well. Park City in Utah has an amazing trail network – that is probably my favourite mountain biking in the world. For mountains, although the Swiss Alps are quieter, Stefania is from the Dolomites in Italy, which I think are the most spectacular and unique mountains in Europe. THE CADEL EVANS GREAT OCEAN ROAD RACE IS HELD IN GEELONG AND SURF COAST REGIONS IN VICTORIA

IN JANUARY/FEBRUARY EACH YEAR. DOES YOUR OWN FAMILY ACCOMPANY YOU FOR THIS EVENT? Yes, my family love coming to Barwon Heads, and the race is a family affair for us as well. Little Aidan only just turned one, so he does not quite understand it. He did participate in the Swisse People’s Ride – in a baby trailer towed by Stefania. And although he cannot actually ride, his smile led him to become the ‘poster boy’ for the Vegemite Family Ride, which is a free event for families where they can ride together on a closed circuit, in a professional racing atmosphere. Last year some of the Bora-Hansgroe team riders came out and stood on the roadside handing water bottles to kids, just as they would receive in their races — it was beautiful. It involves all levels of cyclists, from two-yearolds on training wheels, to the world’s best professional male and female riders. I think one thing that separates the Great Ocean Road Race from many other events is that for a family, as well as four days of family and public activities outside of the racing, you are in the mix with the world’s top athletes, for free. WHY DO YOU THINK TRAVELLING WITH KIDS IS IMPORTANT? I think travelling is important for everyone, children especially. The sooner they learn about other cultures, the more open minded and accepting of others they will become. WHERE WOULD YOU LOVE TO GO FOR YOUR NEXT FAMILY HOLIDAY? My favourite family holidays are with other families. I’m guessing we will be taking a trip somewhere in the US with the Hincapie family again, unless I can persuade George to come mountain biking in The Otways? For more information on the 2021 Cadel Evans Great Ocean Road Race visit cadelevansgreatoceanroadrace.com.au

CELEBRITY Q&A

TRAVELLING IS IMPORTANT FOR EVERYONE, CHILDREN ESPECIALLY

Riders in the Cadel Evans Great Ocean Road Race are treated to magnificent views

Cadel Evans with his partner Stefania Zandonella and their son Aidan before the Great Ocean Road Race in Victoria

Riders competing in the event

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The Horizon Lounge at dusk

The exterior of the hotel

Inside one of the luxurious rooms

ISLAND SHANGRI-LA, HONG KONG

Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central Hong Kong SAR shangri-la.com/en/hongkong/islandshangrila

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ISLAND SHANGRI-LA HONG KONG This upscale hotel is the perfect destination for a stopover, ELISA ELWIN writes THE LOWDOWN

With a long-haul flight planned from Europe to Australia, our family wanted a 24-hour respite in this luxurious cocoon before continuing the journey home. Located in the centre of Hong Kong’s premier shopping malls and many cultural attractions, it was an ideal base for a quick excursion.

LOCATION

Conveniently located in the heart of Central, this urban sanctuary offers direct undercover access to the Admiralty MTR Station and is just a short stroll from Hong Kong Park and the Peak Tram Station. Hong Kong International Airport is a 45-minute taxi ride from the hotel or can be accessed via the Airport Express train.

ACCOMMODATION

Each of the 500+ ultra-spacious rooms and suites at the Island Shangri-La Hong Kong combine elegant European furnishings with Asian touches. The marble ensuite bathrooms are luxuriously fitted with soaking tubs and LCD TVs, with plenty of in-house movies that will appeal to both kids and adults. Expansive windows in the Deluxe rooms offer views of the Peak or Victoria Harbour, while Suites also have dining areas, kitchenettes and walk-in dressing areas. Interconnecting rooms are available for families on request. A familyfriendly welcome includes kids’ slippers and cookies, while nappies and wipes are supplied for those with little ones. Make your visit extra special and stay in a Horizon Club Room, and take advantage of all the Lounge privileges, including breakfast in the morning and free-flowing champagne and canapés in the evening, all with stunning views of Victoria Peak from the exotic roof garden. Plus, most important for us, a late check-out at 4pm. Children are welcome in the lounge until 7pm under adult supervision.

The hotel pool

ACTIVITIES

Ringed by sun loungers, the pool is the place to head on a sticky Hong Kong afternoon. If you get the chance, the spa offers a range of indulgent massage and beauty treatments. Sauna and steam rooms, whirlpool tubs and a gymnasium are among the facilities at the Health Club, which also offers Hatha yoga classes if you feel the need to stretch. Forgotten any essentials? The hotel’s Pro Shop is well-stocked with yoga clothing, swimming accessories and wellness products.

FOOD AND DRINK

Begin the day with breakfast at cafe TOO, whose chefs craft dishes from around the globe at a series of live cooking stations. Teppanyaki and sushi are the focus of Nadaman, while authentic Cantonese cuisine is dished up with flair at the Michelin 1 Star Summer Palace. Live music and seafood await at the Lobster Bar and Grill, or you can enjoy Thai cuisine accompanied by cocktails at the Waterside Terrace. If you want to grab something on-the-go, Island Gourmet offers an enticing selection of homemade pastries and sandwiches. No matter where you eat, kid-friendly plastic cutlery is available on request. For a special night out, renowned chef Uwe Opocensky has recently been

appointed as the head of Restaurant Petrus, a Michelin-star establishment that offers a refreshing take on contemporary French cuisine. As impressive as the food are the views of the harbour, with the restaurant perched on the hotel’s 56th floor. The Island Shangri-La’s family-friendly offerings extend to complimentary kids’ meals. Children under the age of six are treated to free buffet meals at select hotel restaurants, while those aged six to 12 years will receive a 50 per cent discount.

EXPLORE

The Island Shangri-La is just 10 minutes’ walk from Hong Kong Park, where you’ll find the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and a rainforest aviary filled with more than 80 species of tropical birds, and see turtles sunning on the rocks in the lakes. You can get up close to orangutans and ring-tailed lemurs at the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens before jumping aboard the Peak Tram for a bird’s eye view of the city. Grab your retail fix at the Pacific Place shopping centre, which is directly connected to the hotel, or discover the blending of old and new in the vibrant streets of Sheung Wan. The writer was a guest of Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 103

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3pm at Lapland Guesthouse

Go husky sledding

LAPLAND GUESTHOUSE ELISA ELWIN and her family cosy up at a charming, family-run retreat in Sweden THE LOWDOWN

The Lapland Guesthouse lies in the heart of Swedish Lapland and has a reputation for creating authentic and highly personalised stays. Owner/operators Eva and Johan (with the help of their son Elias) have created a destination where you can disconnect from the world and immerse yourself in the traditions and hospitality of Lapland. We had heard about its magical atmosphere and hauntingly beautiful setting, so we wanted to experience it for ourselves in the depth of winter – January. The Christmas lights were still twinkling and the snow was thick and dry, with just a few hours of majestic twilight illuminating the landscape between 10am and 2pm each day.

LOCATION

The Lapland Guesthouse is located on the banks of the Lainio River in the small village of Kangos in northern Sweden. It’s a 104

two-hour drive from Kittila Airport (which has year-round connections to Helsinki), or 30 minutes from Pajala Airport (from where you can connect to Luleå and on to Stockholm). All ground transportation is organised by the guesthouse, with Elias picking up guests and returning them at the end of their stay.

ACCOMMODATION

Five lovingly restored, rustic buildings scatter the property, not only oozing character but providing a variety of room configurations. With two adults and two kids in our party, we stayed in the very comfortable Viking Cabin, which fuses a snow-inspired and Viking theme. It felt like a home away from home, with two bedrooms, a loft, a living area and a bathroom, not to mention a lovely fireplace that kept us toasty warm each evening. In the middle of winter, temperatures can drop to -30 degrees. But rather than hauling your own snow gear across the

Inside the Viking cabin

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world, the Lapland Guesthouse has a large room packed with snow-proof clothing and boots in sizes ranging from child to adult XL.

ACTIVITIES

While seeing the Northern Lights is a highlight of any stay (and the owners went above and beyond to make sure we did), there are plenty of outdoor activities to keep you busy. From snowmobiling to feeding the reindeers and experiencing the enthusiasm of their huskies while dog sledding, you’ll have a new appreciation of just how much fun you can have in the snow. But the real treat is coming home each afternoon to thaw out in the traditional wood-fired sauna or soak beneath the stars in the hot tub. It’s a surreal experience in the minus temperatures. If you want to go dog sledding but are travelling with littlies, it’s safe and secure for them to sit on parents’ laps.

FOOD AND DRINK

Delicious (full board) meals are served at a large communal table while you exchange stories of your adventures with your fellow guests. Locally sourced and home-cooked, the dishes are inspired by traditional Lapland cuisine and the owners are happy to cater to fussy kids and any special dietary requirements. If Eva is making her chanterelle soup, you’re in luck – it may just be the best soup I’ve ever had!

EXPLORE

LAPLAND GUESTHOUSE

Norra Byavägen 132, 980 63 Kangos, Sweden laplandguesthouse.com

In Kangos you’ll find a traditional church, a school and a grocery store. If you’re visiting during the summer months, try to time it to be there for Laxfestivalen in July, when fishermen come from near and far to lure record-breaking salmon, accompanied by plenty of live music and dancing under the midnight sun. The writer was a guest of Lapland Guesthouse and 50 Degrees North. 105

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COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT STOCKHOLM KUNGSHOLMEN

Rålambshovsleden 50. Stockholm, 112 19 Sweden marriott.com.au/hotels/travel/stocycourtyard-stockholm-kungsholmen

Inside a room at Courtyard by Marriott Stockholm Kungsholmen

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT STOCKHOLM KUNGSHOLMEN

This stylish hotel makes a great base to explore Stockholm, writes ELISA ELWIN THE LOWDOWN

Located on an island just a short distance from all the city’s attractions, the Courtyard by Marriott Stockholm Kungsholmen overlooks the leafy walking trails of Rålambshovsparken, whose playgrounds and duck pond are an instant hit with young travellers. Comfortable rooms and sophisticated design make it the perfect base to return to after a day’s sightseeing.

LOCATION

The hotel is just five minutes’ walk from 106

the Thorildsplan Metro Station and within walking distance of the Stockholm City Hall, and a short subway ride from Gamla Stan, where you’ll find the colourful, cobblestone streets of the city’s old town. Stockholm Arlanda Airport is 30 minutes’ drive by taxi, and it is easily accessed by the Arlanda Express train from Stockholm Central Station.

ACCOMMODATION

Decorated with photographs depicting Swedish landmarks, each of the stylish rooms is designed with blue carpets that

create a calm aesthetic. Mini-fridges, ergonomic workspaces and flat-screen TVs come as standard, as do ensuite bathrooms with showers. Some of the rooms are equipped with interconnecting doors (making them ideal for families), while the complimentary Wi-Fi will keep all ages entertained. If you want waterfront views, request one of the rooms overlooking Lake Mälaren.

ACTIVITIES

The hotel’s fitness centre is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, so you

Image: Daniel Herzell

REVIEWS

ABBA Museum

The hotel exterior

Swedish meatballs

can complete your workout whenever it suits you and take advantage of the latest cardiovascular equipment and free weights at the centre. Rent bicycles from reception to explore Stockholm at your leisure. There’s a fireplace in the lobby where you can warm up on winter days, plus complimentary newspapers if you want to catch up on the news.

FOOD AND DRINK

Fuel up for the day’s adventures while feasting on local herring, rye bread, fresh fruits and yoghurts at the Björk Bar & Grill, whose unique decor is inspired by birch trees and native red berries. Brunch, lunch and dinner are also served here, featuring a seasonal menu that’s created with respect to the traditions of Swedish food culture. A short walk from the hotel will take you to Mälar Pavilion

(which has been voted as one of the best neighbourhood restaurants in the world) and the eclectically-designed Grill that’s been transformed from an old furniture shop into one of Stockholm’s most exciting dining destinations. If you’re after cold drinks or light snacks, the Grab n’ Go store in the hotel lobby is well stocked with everything you need. Don’t miss the Björk Bar & Grill’s traditional Swedish meatballs, which will please even the fussiest eaters!

EXPLORE

If you want to pack a lot of sightseeing into 48 hours, pick up the Stockholm Pass. The pass gives you free entry to several museums that include the Vasa Museum and the Royal Palace, plus unlimited rides on the city’s hop-on/hopoff sightseeing buses and boat tours. Kids

will love the Viking Museum, which brings this fascinating period in Scandinavian history to life through interactive exhibits and rides. Experience Ragnfrid’s Saga and come face-to-face with a life-size Viking, replicated with the help of DNA. Even if your kids don’t know who or what ABBA is, they’ll get a kick out of ABBA The Museum, where they can try on virtual costumes and sing the band’s much-loved hits alongside Björn, Benny, Frida and Agnetha. Parents who grew up reading Pippi Longstocking will appreciate the Junibacken children’s attraction as much as kids as it celebrates the world of author Astrid Lindgren (among other Swedish children’s authors). The writer was a guest of Courtyard by Marriott Stockholm Kungsholmen and 50 Degrees North. 107

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Image: Ana Esrock

The kids with soft toys

HOW TO PACK FOR A ROAD TRIP WITH KIDS Canadian travel writer ROBIN ESROCK shares his tips from a 20,000km drive around Australia with his wife and two children

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Move Yourself proved handy

The first and most important thing you can pack for any journey is the right state of mind. With that platitude out of the way, the second most important thing to acknowledge is that you will pack more than you will need. This is human nature. While I admire fellow travellers who can go months with a daypack containing just two shirts, two pairs of underwear and a lot of interesting bacteria, I can guarantee they are not travelling with young kids. Kids can chew up that daypack in a single morning, and still need a new change of clothes by lunch. They do not do laundry, or buy clothes or pack suitcases. That is your responsibility, just as it is to feed them when they are hungry, warm them when they are cold and entertain them when they are bored – at least, until they become teenagers, at which point, they’d rather you didn’t have anything to do with them, except give them money. Every family will need to pack: • Whatever you think you might need • Whatever you might probably need • Whatever you might probably need at a pinch • Whatever you probably forgot The more you pack, the more you will be unpacking, cleaning, carrying and packing again. The less you pack, the more you will be washing, spot cleaning and thinking of creative ways to entertain kids with books and toys they’ve long lost interest in.

THE LESS YOU PACK, THE MORE YOU WILL BE WASHING

As soon as she could walk, Raquel always felt more comfortable out of a pram. Her brother, Gali, felt differently about life on wheels, and so on arriving we cast our net for the lightest, easiest single travel pram we could find. Melbourne-based company Valcobaby’s Snap 4 was the perfect pram for our adventure, but it turned out we couldn’t walk 4m without Raquel wanting to jump into the single pram. In one of the better decisions of our journey, I drove to Valcobaby’s office and literally begged for their Snap 4 double, which also happened to be the lightest and best double pram we could find. 

Images: Robin Esrock

PRAMS

The essential travel crib

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Finally, each kid had a side, there was peace in the valley, and we took the Snap 4 everywhere: on treetop walks, to cliff tops, mountains and beaches. Each seat could recline to full sleep mode, not that our kids ever felt inclined to use that feature. Look for a pram that has wheels that rotate smoothly, a simple fold-up and release mechanism, good shade coverage and a bottom pouch to carry things. Most importantly, the pram should be light enough to carry with one hand or have a shoulder strap.

FLYING WITH PRAMS

Should you check the pram in with your luggage, or check it at the gate? We found both options were hit and miss. Depending on the size of the airport, waiting for the pram to show up at the oversized luggage counter added a half-hour to transit, or else the pram magically appeared as we disembarked the plane. Neither of our kids felt particularly excited to stay in the pram at the airport, and nap times were screwed up anyway. Due to its size, we had to check in our double pram regardless.

Soft toys

TRAVEL COTS

Another fine decision was investing in an easy-to-set-up travel cot, which was also light to transport. Valcobaby again to the rescue! Yes, they helped us out as sponsors, but only because we begged and pleaded them to. Their Zephyr Porta Crib is a cinch to set up and take down for late-night arrivals and rushed morning pack-ups, and most importantly, Galileo really took to it. He loved his little bed, where he would bury his head under a pillow or push up against the netting to get comfortable. We parked it in passageways and wardrobes, in bedrooms and living rooms.

THE JOY OF TRAILERS

A Move Yourself trailer was a tremendous help with packing everything into the car. It allowed us to travel with more stuff (particularly food basics), have easy access to essentials and drive in a relatively uncluttered car. With everything else going on, do you need to spend an extra half hour playing Tetris with luggage in your car? On the downside, parking with a trailer can become a real issue, especially if you’re staying in urban hotels and not holiday parks. We called ahead to book an extra parking space for our trailer, and I became quite adept at hooking and unhooking it and moving it around to fit in different spaces. My lower back has never forgiven me.

Images: Robin Esrock

TOYS

The kids with the luggage

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When choosing travel toys for your kids, remember: the more pieces, the more picking up. The more expensive, the faster they’ll get bored of it. Other kids’ toys are always best, especially if you’re staying in another family’s Airbnb. Remember you don’t have to bring enough toys to get through the entire trip. There are bargains to be found at the Reject Shop, dollar stores and department stores. A $5 toy can buy you a few days of peace, after which, don’t feel bad leaving stuff behind or donating it to other families on the road. We often found beach hotels had a trove of abandoned beach toys, so ask the front desk or the pool attendants before buying more spades and buckets to add to their collection.

Image: Ana Esrock

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PICK A BERRY

On long trips with younger children, it’s important to bring a favourite stuffed toy to give them emotional support and a sense of stability. Before we left, we bought Raquel an IKEA panda, which she named Berry, but pronounced ‘Bearie’ (she insists I make this absolutely clear). If your kids are young enough to feel strong attachment to a stuffed toy, choose one for them and look after it as if it is a family member. If you want to be really clever, buy two identical toys and keep one with friends as a back-up, just in case you lose the other on the road.

Gali in the boot

Packing tips

You do not need to travel with a pharmacy If you need something, buy it along the way, unless you’re going to the middle of nowhere, in which case, snake antivenom can be difficult to come by. Toiletries take up a lot more space and weight than people expect

You do not need to travel with a toyshop If you need something, buy it along the way. Australia is blessed with a variety of discount stores where toys, books and stationery are staggeringly cheap. Bring toys that inspire imagination games – figurines, bubbles, dolls, colouring books, cards – and that are easy to pack

You do not need to travel with your entire wardrobe You need enough clothing for a day in which anything can happen, from being invited to a royal event to tramping in the bush. Since royal invites are probably not forthcoming, one decent dress or shirt will suffice, plus enough shirts, underwear and socks to see you through a week without doing the washing (unless you love doing laundry – to each their own). Double or triple that rule for clothing options for kids, who have a tendency to burn through clothing like Nero burned through Rome. Fortunately, kids’ clothing does not take up much space.

You do not need to pack a grocery store Snacks that are nutritious and healthy can be replenished every time you visit a grocery store or petrol station, which you will be doing often. Watch the kids’ sugar and lolly intake. Keep snacks in a snack bag or compartment that is easily accessible, and always carry water bottles

You will start rusty, but gradually become a welloiled machine Reading blogs and books might give you an edge, but nobody sets off on a big adventure with their packing dialled in. Within a week, you’ll be cursing that you brought X and your last-minute decision to leave Y. Correction: if you have a partner, you’ll be cursing their decision to bring X and their last-minute decision to leave Y

LEAVE THE (PHYSICAL) BOOKS

If you’ve never used an e-reader before, now is the time to invest in one. The space and weight savings are phenomenal. Alternatively, look for light, second-hand paperback kids’ books you can donate or trade as you go.

A KIDS’ BACKPACK YOU CAN CARRY

When it comes to your kids’ daypacks, you will be tempted to buy something small and cute with dancing unicorns and decals of animated puppies. In all likelihood, you’ll end up carrying this bag, because small children and infants seldom feel the need to. In which case, small, cute and unicorn-y don’t make any practical sense whatsoever. Find as large a bag as your kid can handle, and make sure you can shoulder it comfortably when he/she tires of it (usually after about five minutes).

This is an edited extract from 75 Must-See Places to Take the Kids (Before they don’t want to go), published by Affirm Press.

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MUST HAVES

All the latest products travelling families need to know about 1. JOOLZ AER

This compact and lightweight travel stroller has been designed to fit the weight and size limitations of most overhead plane cabins. The Amazing Baby Company is distributing the stroller, by Dutch brand Joolz, in Australia. The 6kg stroller can quickly be unfolded with one hand, is well ventilated, designed for ergonomic comfort for child and parent, has 4-wheel suspension for easy manoeuverability and a 5kg shopping basket. The company also helps combat deforestation and climate change by planting a tree for every stroller sold. Parents receive their own Birth Forest Certificate when they register their pram. It even comes in reusable packaging 112

which converts to a cardboard plane for imaginative play. RRP: $749, including a raincover, travel pouch and a lifetime warranty my-joolz.com.au

2. ECCO BIOM RAFT FISHERMAN SANDALS The ideal shoe for the mini adventurer, this rugged sandal is designed to take on any terrain. ECCO uses shock-absorbent technology to provide a perfectly fitted shoe with excellent stability. The breathable textile lining and quickdry synthetic uppers make the shoes extremely comfortable.. $119.95 au.ecco.com

3. THE FAMILY TRAVEL HANDBOOK FROM LONELY PLANET

This Lonely Planet book is full of practical advice, ideas and inspiration, Lonely Planet's ‘The Family Travel Handbook’ gives you the lowdown on amazing travel experiences around the world – and how to plan and enjoy them with your children. From navigating different forms of transport, to approaching new food and a change in routine, travellers will gain the confidence and know-how to plan family getaways like a pro. It would make a great birthday or Christmas present for armchair travellers. RRP: $29.99 lonelyplanet.com

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4. OSCAR! CAPE TOWN’S SWIMMIEST SEAL OF TABLE BAY

Get your little ones in the mood for a trip to South Africa with this book about a fur seal, his unlikely friendship with a lonely fisherman, and how his golden statue came to take pride of place at The Table Bay, Cape Town. The statue honouring the animal (that was an integral part of harbour life at the V&A Waterfront) welcomes guests on arrival at the South African Sun International property. Oscar, and the kind-hearted fisherman who named him, would meet every day on the pier near where the hotel, which was opened by former South African president Nelson Mandela in 1997, stands today. After the fisherman’s passing, Oscar continued to visit the builders and members of the hotel’s opening team

during construction. He is fondly remembered as the ‘Original Protector and Guardian of The Table Bay’, and his pups still visit the jetty to bask in the sun and pose for tourists’ photos. RRP: R250 (AU$24) suninternational.com/table-bay

5. GOPRO HERO8

The new GoPro HERO8 Black builds upon the success of its predecessors, offering next-level video stabilisation with HyperSmooth 2.0 (great when running after kids!), upgraded audio, customisable pre-set modes and a sleeker, streamlined design which can fit in your back pocket. The camera is also rugged and waterproof up to 10m, so you don't need to worry if little hands drop the camera on land or in the pool. RRP: $599.95 gopro.com

6. COZIGO

This breathable airplane bassinet cover and pram sunshade cover blocks light, movement and stimulation, helping baby to sleep. Its dome shape allows for crossflow ventilation, so your baby can feel the breeze. It has a UVP 50+ rating. RRP: $99.95 cozigo.com

7. PETER RABBIT BACKPACK

Pack away your possessions in this cute rucksack and head off for an adventure with your friend Peter Rabbit™. The backpack has a lively all-over print of Beatrix Potter's much-loved character, a zipped central compartment, an external pocket, adjustable straps for comfort and a carry handle. It wipes clean too. RRP: $35 marksandspencer.com/au/kids-peterrabbit 113

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Insider Interview

NARELLE RILEY P&O CRUISES MARKETING DIRECTOR

Creating memories through activities and experiences that offer something for everyone in the family is key for P&O Cruises marketing director Narelle Riley, her husband John and teenage sons Lochie, 17, and Will, 15. MY IDEAL FAMILY HOLIDAY IS… Something that the whole family can enjoy – where the boys are kept busy and are meeting new friends, where my husband and I get a chance to relax and read a book or magazine as well as explore and exercise, and when the whole family can come together (usually at dinner) to share their day’s adventure. MY FONDEST FAMILY HOLIDAY MEMORY IS… Sitting together at the end of a big day playing ‘Dope of the Day’, where we all share something silly that someone has done, over the dinner table (you can vote for another family member’s funny moment as well!). FAMILY TRAVELLERS MAY NOT BE AWARE THAT… It’s OK to let the kids, particularly teenagers, have some time on their own. They don’t want you living in their pocket and everyone will have much more fun and great memories if you plan moments to connect, like 114

around the table at dinner or playing cards. Finding easy ways to talk, that don’t feel forced, are gold. EVERY FAMILY SHOULD EXPERIENCE… We recently went on a P&O South Pacific cruise and there was so much to do onboard. The boys loved the waterslide, my husband and I enjoyed the cocktails served in The Bonded Store and we all really enjoyed bingo with the hilarious host, Marius! The shore tours were really memorable. Some of the highlights included snorkelling in Jinek Bay in spectacular Lifou, where only 100 people are allowed to snorkel at any one time. We also really enjoyed the beautiful Isle of Pines, where we swam with turtles, then relaxed on a stunning secluded beach as part of the Turtle Bay and Brush Island tour. MY TOP TIP FOR TRAVELLING WITH KIDS IS… Booking a separate room for the kids if at all possible, and/or affordable. It’s better for everyone if they can have their own space to watch their choice of movie or TV show, play on their phone, read and go to sleep in their own room whilst you can have a glass of wine after dinner with your partner, in a bit of peace and quiet – you’ve earned it!

Narelle Riley and her family

Narelle Riley and her family in Lifou

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A DISNEY PRIZE PACK FOR THE NEW MOVIE ONWARD! Disney and Out & About with Kids have partnered to give away five prize packs for the new movie, Onward. Set in a suburban fantasy world, Disney and Pixar’s Onward introduces two teenage elf brothers who embark on an extraordinary quest to discover if there is still a little magic left out there. Pixar Animation Studios’ all-

new original feature film is directed by Dan Scanlon and produced by Kori Rae — the team behind Monsters University.

To enter, go to the Out & About with Kids website: outandaboutwithkids.com.au

Each prize pack is valued at more than $100 and includes a t-shirt, beanie, lunch bag, metal keychain, sticker sheet, notebook and stationery set.

For more information on the movie’s release visit disney.com.au 115

PAC I F IC R E SORT R A ROTONGA R A RO T ONGA , C O OK I SL A N D S Laid back fun in the Sun! With a complimentary kids club and a wide range of water activity equipment, families often make use of the snorkelling equipment exploring the underwater sea life or venture out on a family kayak adventure together. With plenty of activities for children of all ages, and relaxing options for adults, there is something for everyone to enjoy at the award winning family friendly Pacific Resort Rarotonga. AU T H E N T I C B OU T I QU E pacificresort.com

R AROTONGA Âˇ COOK ISLANDS

PAC I F I C R E S O RT H O T E L G RO U P

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