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December 2015

Everything is connected. The only thing we should do is to obσerve.

The Top 3 SS2016 collection reviews. | Greek Style. Not in Crisis. | It’s All Greek Fashion to me. | Is technology the new glamour? | Melina Mercouri The last Greek Goddess.

Everything is connected. The only thing we should do is to obﾏテrve.

Editor’s Letter

Collection Reviews Marni SS16 Dynamic Geometry. Mary Katrantzou SS16 Queen of the Gypsies.

Victoria Beckham SS16 City Surf.

Editorial Shoot Greek Style. Not in Crisis. A fashion collage inspired by Greek history.

Op-Ed Is technology the new glamour?

Long-Form Feature It’s All Greek Fashion to me The 5 new emerging Greek fashion designers.

Culture and Arts Story Melina Mercouri The last Greek Goddess.

editor’s obσerve is…

Nowadays, people read more than ever before seating in front of a computer screen or an iPad. People want to observe a photo shoot and participate even with their imagination. Through this transitional time for the media, in these difficult financial times, one can be creative just by observing the social environment in which he or she lives. Being proud of our creation, we’ll try to convey our passion for fashion and everything new. It’s in our human nature the need to be charmed by the new, and at the same time to be nostalgic about the past. In this first issue, we will travel to the past and be charmed by the “last Greek goddess” and a “woman - flame”. Throughout her life, Melina Mercouri was full of dreams, hopes, and fights. She was one of the most important Greeks of the 20th century. Greta Garbo, and Picasso were some of the stars she had met. She was a political activist, and a strong advocate for the return of the Parthenon Marbles to Athens. Angelos Bratis, Yiorgos Eleftheriades, Victoria Kyriakides, Mi-Ro, and Zeus+Dione are the 5 emerging Greek fashion designers who are meant to be the Greek fashion gods of a new era. The financial and social circumstances in Greece are very tough at the moment. Will they manage to survive and thrive during this difficult crisis time?

In our editorial shoot, we will present a different proposal on how a fashion shoot should be in such difficult times. Could an editorial shoot be creative when the magazine’s finances are not flourishing and there are no models? Difficult times will be once more our inspiration. Being charmed by the release of iWatch, several luxury watchmakers have designed smart watches. Will they succeed? Has Apple turned into a luxury goods company? Apple products have always had their own style. With the obσerve magazine, we will follow many different paths, but we’ll also make many stops. We will observe and talk about issues that bother us in our daily life. We will read about people who deserve our admiration, and learn about them and their work that they have contributed to their country and humanity. We will observe how fashion changes from season to season, and analyze it. Welcome to obσerve magazine where everything is connected, and the only thing we should do is to observe.

Best Wishes,

Katerina Stamatopoulou

During the Fashion Weeks for Spring/Summer 2016, we noticed some collections that stood out and got positive credits from the fashion world. Mary Katrantzou impressed us with her folklore aesthetics, and Marni got us back to the Basics. Victoria Beckham said farewell to her black and mod designs, and she welcomed bold prints.

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letter

Everything is connected. The only thing we should do is to obﾏテrve.

COLLECTIONS reviews

Marni Spring/Summer 2016 Milan Fashion Week

Dynamic Geometry.

arni is an Italian fashion brand best known for its European bohemian aesthetic. Color blocking, characteristic graphic prints, and vintage inspired shapes best describe this Italian luxury brand. Consuelo Castiglioni succeeded in defining the Marni woman with Marni’s Spring/Summer collection 2016. By pairing primary colors such as blue, red, yellow and green with strokes of black, white and brown, a perfect color blocking was created. The collection was based on layering with a graphic touch, and as a result new silhouettes were created: fluid shapes which followed the movement of the body but with no intention to be provocative. White T-Shirts were worn under embroidered tunics, and men style trousers in oversized portions. Polka-dot macramé dresses mixed with scuba diving gear created an odd marine feel. Lace, cotton, leather, sequins, satin, gabardine, and neoprene were all mixed in a very abstract but architectural, concrete design.

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The makeup was natural, but the eyelashes were highlighted with spidery false eyelash tendrils for “a spooky look” as Tom Pecheux, the brand’s makeup artist, said. Halloween must be around the corner.

images sources: vogue.com

But there is nothing costume-like at Marni, except perhaps, its costume jewelry. Marni’s accessories are defining the brand’s lifestyle. Metal and Plexiglas bangles decorated the wrists, while long, metallic-detailed leather shopper bags or clutches felt at home in delicate model hands. Chunky acetate earrings, and large, sharp-edged frame sunglasses completed the look for an impactful fashion statement. The cherry on top: flat booties and square-toed sandals hid underneath the architectural shapes. σ

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Mary Kantrantzou Spring/Summer 2016 London Fashion Week Queen of the Gipsies.

ight years after her graduation, Mary Katrantzou has returned to fill the atrium of Central Saint Martins with sparkle at the presentation of her new collection SS16. Cosmology, labyrinths, chaos, and folklore mood infused the atmosphere. After her Fall 2015 collection which was far from the personal style of the designer, prints are back. The whole idea of the collection was based on “Layers of magical realism”, as Katrantzou said. Short dresses with micro sequins, tiny flower prints, metallic brocades, crystals, and quilting were bold and at the same time very delicate. The effect of the folklore patterns, the metallic details, and the dark fabrics reminded of the ambiance of the film “Time of the Gipsies” by Emir Kusturica, a Serbian filmmaker. This film might was an influence on the designer. Different elements from Balkan wedding clothes and pieces from Mediterranean

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countries were creating shapes, and colors. At the same time, a story was narrated and was creating strong feelings of surprise, joy and anticipation. Booties and sandals with Perspex high heels made their own fashion statement.

images sources: vogue.com

It was a bright and magical world that Katrantzou had in her mind.Only Katrantzou with her striking prints could successfully described this magical world. In every presentation of her collections, the audience craves for more about the development of her prints, and she always succeeds in impressing them. Not unfairly, she has been named the “Queen of the Prints”. σ

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Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2016 New York Fashion Week City Surf.

Phones didn’t stop flashing at the former “Posh Spice” Girl’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection fashion show. It was a farewell to the Black Lady with the mod, mini dresses that used to be the trademark of Victoria Beckham’s brand aesthetics. Ιn this NYFW, she presented a collection with fluid, modern silhouettes which added a more colorful, fresh, and girly touch. Although, she wears mainly monochrome clothes, it was the first time she introduced a bold print collection in various lengths. Urban surf prints added a playful yet artistic touch. Beckham said that she has challenged herself with prints, but she found the way to make them work. Pleated silk and chiffon skirts were worn lower on the hips, and cotton tunic dresses were bias-cut. It’s obvious that Beckham’s clothes exude

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relaxation. The tight dresses have became echoes of the past. The make-up was fresh, with strong brows. In some looks, a playful orange-red matte lipstick was added.

images sources: vogue.com, wwd.com

Large crescent-shaped napa leather bags were hanging from the models’ shoulders. Flatform sandals and flat leather slipons declared freedom of walking, and a welcomed surprise for her clients. Too many non-old-Beckham style proposals for a show. Welcome, the new Victoria. σ

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editorial SHOOT

Greek Style. Not in Crisis. When fashion meets Greek history & nowaday’s crisis through the art of collage.

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There are not such things as the Elgin Marbles. - Melina Mercouri Chima cotton-poplin shirt, The Row. The Sally denim midi skirt, Current/Elliott. The Bayswater textured-leather bag, Mulberry. Zunitaco 120 leather and suede sandals, Christian Louboutin.

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An opera begins long before the curtain goes up and ends long after it has come down. - Maria Callas Floral-print silk-organza dress, Dolce&Gabbana. The Knot watersnake -trimmed intrecciato satin clutch, Bottega Veneta. Hangisi 105 Satin Pumps, Manolo Blahnik.

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I know that I know nothing. -Socrates Cropped cutout crepe top, Alice+Olivia. Midnight Penelope skirt, Stella McCartney. Quartz Noir Backpack, Callista Crafts. LALAoUNIS Rhodes sandals, Ancient Greek Sandals.

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The first and best victory is to conquer self. - Plato

Twist shoulder drape midi dress, Victoria Beckham. Flamenco Flap leather and suede shoulder bag, Loewe. Bianca suede sandals, Saint Laurent.

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The whole is more than the sum of its parts. - Aristotle Denim and wool-jersey midi dress, Junya Watanabe. Antigona envelope clutch in black grained leather, Givenchy. Flat gladiator sandal in multicolor print with rivets, Ancient Greek Sandals x Peter Pilotto.

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LONG-FORM FEATURE

It’s All Greek Fashion to me

The 5 new emerging Greek fashion designers.

Angelos Bratis, Yiorgos Eleftheriades, Victoria Kyriakides, Mi-Ro, and Zeus+Dione are the 5 emerging Greek fashion designers who are meant to be the Greek fashion gods of a new era. by Katerina Stamatopoulou

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Angelos Bratis

ngelos Bratis was born and raised in Athens. From a very early age, he watched his mother in her atelier, and made comments while she was crafting her creations for her clients. He studied fashion design in Athens, and then he won a place for a MA course at the Fashion Institute Arnhem, in Netherlands. In January 2003, he debuted at Paris Haute Couture week. His journey in the fashion world had just started. In Italy, he is collaborating with high-end fashion designers, and reaping the attention of the press with his stand-out designs. He is a great fan of craftsmanship, architecture and geometry. He loves to sculpt his creations directly on the mannequin, so as to create a 360 degree fashion look. His eponymous collections are characterized by his fluid, elegant, architectural design and impeccable technique. In 2011, he won the “Who Is On Next?” competition for emerging fashion designers in Rome, which was organized by AltaRoma in collaboration with VOGUE Italia. Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Italia, and Suzy Menkes, VOGUE International Editor were among the competition’s jurors. In January 2013, the British Wallpaper* magazine suggested Angelos Bratis as one of the most prominent upcoming designers to watch.

In his Spring/Summer 2016 collection polka dots were the main theme. Long light silk fluid dresses were skillfully draped to point out feminine body curves. The rounded hems with cutout details in some dresses and skirts created a more graphic style. Also, the cutout circles on the skirts’ fabric created a beautiful pattern playing with shadow and light. Vivid and solid colors such as navy blue, purple, white and mustard on silk, chiffon, cotton and jersey created the picture of a confident, and sensual woman. angelosbratis.it obσerve

Yiorgos Eleftheriades

n 1997, he showcased his first women’s RTW collection. In 1998, Yiorgos Eleftheriades opened his first store in Athens. He is also the co-founder of the Hellenic Fashion Designers Association which in 2005 launched the inaugural Athens Fashion Week. His collections have been shown in Athens, Paris and Barcelona. He is both a lover of classical forms, and an environmentally conscious designer. With his clothes, he creates an alternative urban style with very interesting shapes. Quality tailoring, and experimental combinations of fabrics and textures are his main target. For many years he has created countless bespoke costumes for great theater performances. VOGUE, Harper’s Bazaar, ELLE, and Dazed&Confused are some of the most important fashion worldwide magazines which have featured his work.

“Absence of Necessity” is the name of his Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Geometrical shapes and modern architectural movements are the collection’s main theme, which is translated into asymmetrical folds, pleats and the Japanese origami techniques. Eleftheriades gives a lot of attention to tailoring techniques, and that is noticeable in all of his collection’s clothes. For this collection, he derived his inspiration from 18th century cut pirate jackets, 1920s boxy elongated silhouettes, and the dramatic flared shapes of couture. The trousers are short, and the skirts - whether short or long - are loaded with panels or folds in order to add movement. Silk, satin, metallic lace with geometrical patterns and clean, sharp cotton fill the need for clothes with a beautiful touch on the skin. As far as the color palette is concerned, it is neutral with black, white, sand and petrol which are offset by a series of ‘optical illusion’ prints inspired by herringbone patterns designed by the visual artist GRAAM, exclusively for Yiorgos Eleftheriades SS16 collection. yiorgoseleftheriades.gr

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Victoria KyriaKides

ictoria KyriaKides has been creating haute couture collections since the early 2000’s using her unique “sur mesure” authentic French technique. From an early age, she became immersed in beautiful, luxurious fabrics and tailor-made clothing. Her mother loved to have all her clothes bespoken. She introduced her to the concept of couture, and the deep appreciation for fine fabrics. Every dress she creates is done by hand with the precise measurements of each individual bride. “My dream is to create an exquisite, timeless focal point for a woman to wear on her most important day”, she says. Her style icon is Jackie Onassis because she was a risk taker while at the same time she was faithful to her own personal style. KyriaKides master atelier is located in Athens, and an additional showroom is located in New York. In September 2015, her partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue luxury department store was announced.

According to Victoria KyriaKides, Spring and Summer always evoke a sensibility of excitement and renewal, and elicit imagery of the ocean for her. So, her Spring/Summer 2016 collection is inspired by the muses and divinities of the sea. The dresses are ethereal and made by the finest French silk and weightless laces, and transparent layering, which create an elegant, timeless and at the same time fashion-forward collection. Flowy ballgowns created from the finest silk organza, and French Chantilly laser cut lace create a very inspiring and appropriately sexy look. viktoriakyriakides.co.uk

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Mi-Ro

imitris Mastrokalos, born in Crete, after he finished his studies in graphic design in Athens, he decided to continue his studies in fashion design at Veloudakis School of Fashion, one of the top Fashion Schools in Greece. As a fashion design student, he also worked next to well-known Greek fashion designers. Giannis Raptis, born in Corfu, studied marketing in an American college. About twelve years ago, they decided to join forces and make their dream come true. Mi-Ro, the name of their brand, is now one of the most successful Greek fashion labels with a clientele that many would envy. They like to create clothes with emphasis on raw materials which are carefully crafted, with a delicate finish. Also, the design of menswear is a very important part of their brand which has particular emphasis on the materials and the making process. They have presented their work in Greece and abroad, Rome, Serbia, and Paris. They get their inspiration almost from everything their eye catches. They could easily get inspired by a movie, a trip or even a painting. Rihanna and Lady Gaga are two artists who they admire and would love to dress. One of their dreams come true is to see their creations hanging in high-end stores around the world.

The talented design duo Mi-Ro propose for Spring/Summer 2016 airy dresses from cool summer fabrics such as silk, lace and delicate cotton with an aesthetic that comes from the 70s and 80s. Polka dots, large floral patters, pleated dresses with lacy details, and silky ribbons belts are some of the Spring/Summer 2016 collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main characteristics. Bright pink, shades of blue, bright orange and earthy colors create the color pallet. mi-ro.gr obĎ&#x192;erve

Zeus+Δione

eus+Dione is a Greek luxury brand that produces handmade products. The products of this brand are characterized by refined and rare craftsmanship, and are inspired by the rich Greek aesthetic heritage. Designs and motives which are minimal and crisp, and the finest handmade details, give a uniqueness that is the core of the brand. But, the most interesting feature is the loom embroidery technique that is used (one of the oldest Greek techniques) which tends to disappear. Another interesting feature of Zeus+Dione is that all products are made by Greek artisans and local workshops with a long tradition in their craft. Silk and cotton pieces are weaved on traditional looms in the town of Soufli, which is well known about its silk industry. Hand crochet items are knitted by local women in Crete and other parts of Greece. Silver handmade parts of the clothes, such as fastenings, are made by Athenian silversmiths. Dresses and shirts are weaved in Metsovo, a village in Epirus, and Crete. According to the two owners of the brand, Mareva Grabowski and Dimitra Kolotoura, Zeus+Dione is addressing to all those costumers who can recognize and seek for something special, rare and of excellent quality. To all the women who are inspired by the Greek heritage and handmade creations. It is worth to be mentioned that the motto of the brand is “based on a myth and creating one at the same time”, and not by chance. “The long term goal is to build a sustainable future”, says Mareva Grabowski, one of the two founders of the brand.

In their “Olympic” Resort 2016 collection, ancient athletic games are the main theme. Olympic athletes were the inspiration for their natural beauty, their endurance, their perseverance and integrity. Through the collection, we can explore the sculptural elements of the human figure, lightness during physical exercise, and the volumes shaped during movement. The color pallet has black, ivory and gold contrasts blended with deep blue and red tones in order to create a graphic form of lightness. Hints of handmade stitching depict the artisanal craftsmanship. Also, contrasting weights and dyes of silk yarns manifest innovation in archetypal materials. Handmade sandals and bags are created from leather and raffia under a harmonious fusion of textures and techniques. Last but not least, fine gold and marble jewelry in geometric shapes and different volumes stand out. zeusndione.com obσerve

Op-Ed

Is technology the new glamour?

echnology has become an integral part of our everyday life, while fashion are the means that reveal our social status to the public eye. After all, it wasn’t long ago that we couldn’t carry our mobiles, laptops and tablets with us. Technology wants to catch up with fashion as an element of the social status public display. Enter Smart Fashion. In fact, it is a long-awaited child of the “long-lasting marriage”. As Jonathan Neobσerve

whouse, Chairman and Chief Executive of Conde Nast International, has said: “ Apple has created a new sector: techno-luxury” in which technology is becoming luxury and luxury is becoming technology. Many fashion designers are aware that their clients want accessories for their iPhones or iPads. They want something read status symbols, which will address their position in society.

images source: apple.com

Next time you spot someone wearing coveted Apple Watch ask them the following question: “What prompted you to invest into this accessory?” The answer might lie on the intersections of fashion, technology, and luxury. by Katerina Stamatopoulou

Technology has been regularly used by luxury brands to sell their products through the social networks. For example, Burberry’s loyal clients were able to buy their favorite looks from the live-streamed catwalk during London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016. The days when the clients had to show great patience until the collection would be available at the stores are the thing of the past.

ditional luxury watch brands such as Tag Heuer or Rolex? Should they be worried about the future? According to Stephane Linder, Chief Executive of Tag Heuer, the Apple Watch is not a luxury product because it’s not unique or rare. “...At $350, it looks more mass market. A smart watch will be outdated and replaced every year. Luxury is about ease and elegance. There is nothing easy and elegant about carrying around another charger. Oh My God!” he adds. There are some truths to his observations, but he failed to remember the lesson iPod taught the music industry: it was the iPod that helped Apple to get into

When the Apple Watch was presented the last year by Tim Cook, Apple’s CEO, the need of partnership between technology companies and fashion’s leading luxury brands became more amplified. A high-tech wrist-wear must be useful without sacrificing style, noted many pundits. The Apple Watch should be elegant, and brand differentiated, in order to be more familiar to the people and generate a desire to purchase. However, what happens with the old fashioned, and more tra-

“So what does the future hold? What if we can open our car's door with our watch?”

the music business, forcing EMI Records Ltd to the brink of bankruptcy.

products and have been chosen by many wealthy consumers because of their quality. Perhaps, where technology does excel is the quality component. Technology as it seems will outlive us all.

So what does the future hold? What if we can open our car’s door with our watch? What if we can call our car to pick us up from wherever we are as David Hasselhoff did in the 80s TV series “ Knight Rider”? All this is possible and not the question of how, but when! Key companies will fade out. Being affordable doesn’t mean a luxury consumer cannot find the item useful or appealing. Adidas sportswear, Victoria Secret underwear, and the Mini Cooper car are all affordable

So yes, next time you wear your Apple Watch, and asked the question why you bought it - think of your answer in terms of quality not the status. σ

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culture& ARTS STORY

Melina Mercouri

The last Greek Goddess.

images sources: theredlist.com, personnal sites.

They called her: “last Greek goddess” and a “woman - flame”. Throughout her life, Melina Mercouri was full of dreams, hopes, and fights. She was one of the most important Greeks of the 20th century. by Katerina Stamatopoulou

“…I

hope to see the Parthenon Marbles back to Athens before I die. But, if they come later, I will be reborn…” This phrase sums up the passion of Melina Mercouri’s campaign for the return of the Parthenon Marbles. A woman-symbol whom left her mark on the entire world with her words, actions, style, and presence. She

fought for Greece and lived with one and only demand: to see the Parthenon Marbles back to their homeland. She didn’t need any introductions to be recognized. Just the sound of her first name was enough. Melina of “Stella”, Melina of “Never on Sunday”, Melina of Parthenon Marbles, Melina of Greece, Melina of Greeks.

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She was born οn October 18, 1920, and she came from a family of politicians since her grandfather was one of the most successful and popular Mayors of Athens for more than twenty years. Also, her father was a Minister for more than thirty years. Her grandfather was her role model, “He taught me to love Greece, to be brave, and to not count on money. For him, money were a great shame. He taught me the fairytale of life. He infused me with the idea that Greece, Athens are the top” .

“…Greta Garbo is who made me become an actress…”

From a very young age, she revealed her untamed, powerful and reactionary character. While, her female classmates played with dolls, she was standing in front of a mirror and she was performing. “Greta Garbo is who made me become an actress,” she says. In September, 1938, she was accepted to the Drama School of the National Theatre in Athens. Her dream had just begun. She would get married at the age of 17. But, she would find her true love at the Cannes Festival’s Red Carpet in 1955 when she was nominated for her main role in Michael Cacoyannis’ “Stella.” It was a love at first sight with the American film director, Jules Dassin who would change Mercouri’s life forever: “Jules has taught me what cinematography means. He has taught me everything.” Back in 1960, Mercouri and Dassin were nominated for the Academy Awards for Best Actress

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in leading role with the movie “Never on Sunday.” . Although, she didn’t win the Best Actress Award, the movie won the Academy Award for Best Song composed by Manos Hadjidakis. Another movie was coming up in 1961, in which Melina starred “Phaedra” in the eponymous film. A part of the filming took place in the British Museum’s hall where the Parthenon Marbles are displayed. This moment would mark the beginning of a perpetual struggle for Mercouri. In 1967, the coup d’ état stopped her plans by changing her Greek citizenship. She self-exiled to Paris, and she would only return after the fall of Greek’s military junta in 1974. She would become a founding member of the Greek Socialist Party, and in 1977 she would win a parliamentary seat. She became a very passionate and controversial Minister of Culture and Sciences from 1981 to 1989 and from 1993 to 1994. Back in 1982, at the UNESCO’s International Conference of Culture Ministers, in Mexico, there would be the first

“…Jules has taught me what cinematography means. He has taught me everything…”

time where the return of the Parthenon Marbles issue would be officially set on the table. “Parthenon Marbles do exist. There are no such things as the Elgin Marbles,” she passionately advocated. Freedom was the most important thing for her. She had fought her whole life to be free as a person, but she had never managed to release from her favorite habit, smoking, which ultimately killed her, as she was diagnosed with lung cancer. “I thought that I would be afraid of the illness, but what I’m afraid of the most is to not loving me,” she said. Being hospitalized at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, New York City, she asked for a cigarette. “From life to death is just a lit cigarette” , she said and the doctors would be left speechless. Mercouri died on 6 March, 1994. She was the first Greek woman buried with honors of Head of State. During her funeral the Broadway theaters and shops were closed, while her date of death designed by UNESCO as a World Day of Culture.

“…I hope to see the Parthenon Marbles back to Athens before I die. But, if they come later, I will be reborn…”

A flamboyant and very outspoken personality, the “last Greek Goddess” had become a part of history. She fought, she was attacked, she loved and being loved. She acted, performed and she reached the top. Her deep voice, her big smile, her seductive green eyes, her natural sophisticated blonde hair, her huge hug. She would burst into tears every time she would listen Edith Piaf’s last concert. She was glowing from happiness every time she was into Jules’ hug. She would get mad every time she was listening others calling her homeland’s heritage “Elgin Marbles”. Because, there will never be such things... σ

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