Flights Into Flavor

Flights Into Flavor At The Ocala Airport

By Melody Murphy • Photos By John Jernigan

Elevation 89, the new restaurant at the Ocala Airport, just took off for business in October 2021 and it’s already climbed above the clouds for smooth flying. No turbulence or crosswinds here, just a well-crafted menu of American cuisine, food cooked perfectly, and a friendly and attentive staff.

The name comes from the airport’s elevation call signal, the location being 89 feet above sea level. The co-pilots of Elevation 89 are Chris Wilson (design and build) and local restaurant legend Rondo Fernandez (food and beverage), owner and creator of the Mojo’s Grill chain. But Elevation 89 isn’t another Mojo’s—it’s very much its own establishment.

Sleek and modern, Elevation 89 is an intimate restaurant with the potential to easily accommodate larger crowds. The wall at one end of the dining room can be expanded to open up the space, perfect for their popular Sunday brunches. It’s also a great option if you want to rent the restaurant for a large private party (up to about 150 people). With the wall in place, the private room beyond is available for meetings or smaller parties.

High-top tables and chairs make up most of the seating in the blackand-silver dining room. Aviation-themed prints dot the walls and big windows promise a clear look at landings and takeoffs on the tarmac. (If you’re going for dinner this winter, go early so you don’t miss the gorgeous open view with a sunset to remember.)

My friend Laura and I visited for dinner on a Wednesday evening in December. Though a newer restaurant, word already seemed to have gotten out about Elevation 89. There was an ample-sized crowd in a collectively good mood.

Elevation 89 keeps spirits high with a full bar. Regardless of your choice of whiskey from their carefully curated bourbon bar list, their Old-Fashioned is not here to mess around. (And despite the name, Rough Rider is remarkably smooth.) If you’d prefer to pair wines with your meal, the wine list offers a premium selection of reds and whites.

We began with the porcinidusted scallops appetizer. This is not for sharing, unless you are an especially benevolent soul and also plan to eat a big dinner. More accurately, it’s good enough that you may not want to share.

You get four firm and tender jumbo scallops, earthy and extra-savory from their dusting of dried mushrooms, swimming in a bath of delicious roasted garlic Dijon cream sauce. In the middle is a nest of fried onions that is just as good on its own as it is swiped through the sauce.

The batter on the onions is light and crispy, not at all greasy. The choice of red onion instead of the typical sweet variety for this more delicate cousin to the onion ring is unusual, but it works, offering a little extra pepperiness while managing to avoid too much bite.

The filet gratinee is the crowning jewel of the dinner menu. It stars a seasoned eight-ounce filet mignon, char-grilled and topped with goat cheese, spinach, and bacon bread crumbs. The dish is garnished with caramelized onions and whipped potatoes, then the entire lily of a dish is gilded with a bourbon demi-glace.

The presentation Sleek and modern, Elevation 89 is an intimate restaurant with the potential to accommodate larger crowds. Char-grilled filet mignon is tall and artfully stacked. If you are a person who posts pictures of your food to Instagram, you will feel the instant urge to snap this.

Our filet was cooked to a perfect medium-rare that cut like butter. In fact, the texture of everything that evening was absolutely correct. You also will not need to salt anything. The tang of the goat cheese nicely offset the richness of the potatoes and bread crumbs, and the bourbon notes of the finishing sauce were just as emphatic as they were in our cocktails. This is a place that likes its drinks and flavors strong. We also had the pescatore, a pasta dish resplendent with a variety of seafood. A platter of capellini pomodoro comes ornamented with sauteed shrimp, clams, and mussels, tossed with shallots, garlic, and tomatoes, then flambéed in brandy. The delicate pasta is nicely al dente, and the roasted-tomato and brandy notes harmonize well together. Big flavors continue here, as the briny taste of fresh mussels and clams sings out strongly. The shrimp is plump and succulent.

Pasta pescatore

THE FLIGHT PLAN DINNER MENU (served 4pm to close) is an elegant selection of entrees, featuring beef, chicken, pork, fish, and seafood. Soup, salad, nine side dishes, and a quartet of appetizers round out the evening choices. It’s definitely a specialoccasion-worthy menu.

Of interest for future visits: White truffle parmesan fries are a side dish a little out of the ordinary. A chilirubbed ribeye with cilantro lime butter sounds like a bright and intriguing combination of flavors. And the shrimp and grits include chorizo, which makes any dish livelier and even more delicious.

The chefs are creative geniuses, coming up with nightly specials like grouper stuffed with shrimp and scal- lops, served in a Thai chili cream sauce with charred tomato and pineapple chutney, with buttered white rice and blackened asparagus on the side. And management is wonderfully, and vocally, enthusiastic and supportive of the visions being dreamed up in the kitchen.

If you’re visiting for lunch or looking for something a little more casual and budget-friendly for dinner, there are plenty of choices on the lunch/dinner menu (available 11am to close Monday through Saturday).

Enjoy hearty favorites like chili, nachos, and chicken wings served nine ways. (You know you want to find out what Sexy Wings are.) For something lighter, try a shrimp salad or a rice bowl with your choice of protein or veggie additions.

The sandwich selections sound especially promising. There’s grouper, a Florida favorite, served blackened or grilled. For spice-loving souls, there’s Nashville hot chicken. And the grilled portobello mushroom with basil mayo on brioche sounds worthy of a lunchtime visit.

Or do you feel like sharing with friends? Get a charcuterie board or the chef’s selection of desserts and pastries for the group.

The breakfast and brunch menu offers all the classics: biscuits and sausage gravy, omelets, French toast, waffles, pancakes, and more. The Eggs Benedict comes with a twist: Served on a biscuit, it’s topped with grilled shrimp and Cajun aioli. And the Sunday Fly-In Brunch kicks it up a notch, adding a Bloody Mary and mimosa bar.

Elevation 89 is open daily for breakfast and lunch, with reservations preferred for Sunday brunch. Dinner is served every night of the week but Sunday.

No matter when you visit, you’re sure to enjoy a smooth and pleasant “flight” featuring first-class food and service. With a crew climbing steadily to ever-higher altitudes and a clear vision, the sky’s the limit for Elevation 89.

Scallops with fried onions

WANT TO GO?

Elevation 89 1770 SW 60th Avenue, Suite 800 (352) 655-2880