Weeki Wachee

‘A Retro Delight’

By Dean Blinkhorn

Photos: Courtesy Weeki Wachee

This attraction got noticed well before a well-known mouse in Orlando. More than 70 years since—and an adoption into the state park system later—Weeki Wachee stands ready to enthrall visitors of all kinds to a more natural side of the Sunshine State.

WHY GO? Weeki Wachee, one of Central Florida’s original tourist attractions, is a retro delight. Spend the day kayaking its crystal-clear namesake river, bring the grandkids for a day at Buccaneer Bay, or enjoy a leisurely stroll through its exhibits and world-famous mermaid shows. An added bonus is that it’s a little over an hour from most parts of Marion County.

WHAT TO DO: The mermaid show is the centerpiece of the park. They swim in and out of the underwater “stage,” which is actually in the spring itself, as the audience watches behind a panoramic series of clear glass. The mermaids dance to different songs and tell stories of the history of the park, all while wearing their oversized tails and a bikini top and breathing through a tube that founder Newt Perry designed specifically for these synchronized theatrical productions. The mermaids were trying out a new show the day we were there and it was a fun way to start our day at the park. It had a refreshingly wholesome and Andrews Sister-like vibe, much appreciated by the parents and their children, especially all the little girls who probably could imagine themselves in the water alongside them, twirling their tails and watching their hair flit in the currents.

The River Boat Cruise is a gentle 25-minute down-and-back on the Weeki Wachee River. The website description mentions— but doesn’t promise—river wildlife like “nesting bald eagles, turtles, blue heron, wild turkey, deer, and colorful fish of all sizes.” If you get lucky, it continues, “Your fascinating expedition may take you right alongside endangered West Indian manatees.” Well, on our trip, we didn’t see any of these except for the turtles. Lots of turtles. Still, it was great to get out on the river to look around, except I do wish the ride was longer. Everyone was really getting into it just as we had to turn around.

The park is currently renovating the outdoor amphitheater where the animal shows will resume. Until then, park guests will see various staff members holding the animals for a more one-on-one interaction. Watching the little kids as they see a baby alligator or a turtle up close never gets old.

INSIDER TIPS: According to John Athanason, the park’s longtime marketing and public relations director who has worked with celebrities like Jimmy Buffett, Paris Hilton, Larry the Cable Guy, and Jack Hanna, there are a few keys to a successful day. “Sign up for the river cruise immediately upon entering the park,” he advises. “And arrive early.” He also suggests you attend the first mermaid show since they’re in the actual spring and can be affected by weather concerns at any time, especially lightning.

WHERE TO EAT: The on-site snack pavilion is surprisingly good. They have tasty prepackaged sandwiches and salads that will certainly do the job. Howev- er, if you plan ahead and don’t mind a slight detour, I have two other options for you to consider.

You’ll probably pass through Brooksville, so a diversion to the Florida Cracker Kitchen—which is open for breakfast and lunch seven days a week, by the way—should definitely tempt your itinerary. Try a hearty breakfast with their signature tomato gravy, their thick-cut bacon, or a massive omelet or waffle, but the corn beef hash is made fresh every day and the shrimp and grits is a house specialty. Be sure to get a cinnamon roll for an appetizer, as you’ll probably have to wait a few minutes. It’s big enough to share!

The Thousand Island Café is only five minutes south of Weeki Wachee, but this family-owned diner is a pretty authentic option to having to go further south to Greek-infused Tarpon Springs. They have hearty breakfast favorites, but of course their Greek salads and entrees are the real stars. Be sure to ask about the daily specials at this well-run restaurant.

WHERE TO SHOP: Weeki Wachee has a charming on-site gift shop— What tourist attraction in Central Florida worth its salt doesn’t?—where you can find all kinds of mermaid clothing and accessories. Like most state parks, it also includes lots of material for the more serious visitor, especially with its generous selection of titles on indigenous flora and fauna. It’s hard to imagine you won’t spend something here.

A LITTLE HISTORY: Weeki Wachee has a colorful history. As one of Central Florida’s oldest roadside attractions dating back to 1947, its actual history goes back much further than those first automobile-driving, post-war visitors.

Named by the Seminole Indians because they considered it a “little spring” or “winding river,” the spring itself is actually so deep that the bottom has never been seen. Each day, more than 117 million gallons of clear, fresh 74-degree water bubbles up out of subterranean caverns and forms a five-mile-an-hour current that flows for 12 miles before dumping into the Gulf of Mexico.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS: Weeki Wachee has plenty of activities to fill most of your day, but if you go when Buccaneer Bay is open—from 9am to 5pm—you’ll want to queue up early. Most days when the weather is nice and the local kids are out of school, the park will sell out quickly. Even if you don’t plan to go down the slides (subject to their own schedule) or bring the grandkids for a swim, you’ll enjoy hanging out on the small shoreline or dipping in the water. It is Florida, after all.

Another option would be to book a reservation for a kayak excursion down the adjacent namesake river. The water is crystal clear and the adventure company will haul you back to the starting point so you don’t have to fight the current back upstream to return to your car. A few minutes in and you’ll probably forget that busy Hwy. 19 is just a holler away.

HOW TO GET THERE: The route I like is down SR 200 to Hwy. 41 and then picking up SR 50 for the final stretch to the park. This not only avoids Hwy. 19, which feels a lot like SR 200, but it points the car through more picturesque downtowns like Inverness, tiny Floral City, and county seat Brooksville (see “Where To Eat”) where you can grab a quick breakfast. Thank me now.

Weeki Wachee Springs State Park 6131 Commercial Way Spring Hill, FL 34606 (352) 592-5656 www.weekiwachee.com