Good Eats: Morevino

‘An Absolute Treat To The Palate’

By Dean Blinkhorn • Photos By John Jernigan & Trevor Byrne

With a wonderful menu, an expansive wine list, and an enviable spot north of the Downtown Square, Morevino should be at the top of everyone’s culinary list. Get there now before it is.

After travelling the world for 15 years as a top sommelier, Brian Morey has settled down in Ocala with his family to start the next chapter in his long culinary career—establishing a world-class restaurant in the heart of Ocala. Three years in now and he’s off to a great start.

WHERE?—Morevino occupies a downtown spot so small you might miss it. You, in fact, probably already have hundreds of times. With frontage downtown on super-busy Silver Springs Boulevard, Morevino enjoys a perfect view of the historic gazebo and seems perched every night to revel in the nocturnal festivities of Ocala’s late-night partiers. Its simple, bright-blue sign out front might seem like a sports bar at first glance, but, trust me, Morevino is without a doubt one of Ocala’s best restaurants.

WHY GO?—Well, as easy as it would be for me to say how I feel, let me share a few of Morevino’s best online reviews.

“What a wonderful restaurant,” says Lynn Kallay. “The menu is creative and freshly prepared, and the owner shops locally at the Downtown Market on Saturdays for fresh produce. I ordered conch fritters, which were better than what I had in the Keys, and had Brussels sprouts that were excellent. We are looking forward to many more visits in the future.”

“The specials and menu items are all made fresh, and the wine selection is enormous,” says Ted Haengel. “It was an absolute treat to the palate.”

“Delicious food and drinks,” offers Deanne Bauman. “We appreciated the extra attention from the chef stopping by our table to ask us about our meal. Fun little place!”

Okay, I can’t resist. Here’s why I think you should go.

There are very few restaurants like this in Ocala where a master chef literally runs the place. Two of my favorites—La Cuisine, also downtown, and Antonio’s, in nearby Micanopy— demonstrate the same level of commitment. On an average Tuesday in July that was unusually busy, I watched as Brian left his perch in the kitchen overlooking the dining room to visit all the tables for a few minutes each, stopping lastly at ours to make a personal wine recommendation for my dinner. It’s a master’s touch.

THE BEST TIME TO GO— It’s a small place, so best to avoid the peak hours or you may be hanging out at the gazebo across the Boulevard while you wait for a table. Reservations are recommended.

YOU’LL BE IMPRESSED BY—Two things in particular attracted my attention, although there are many in this small space.

I marveled at the range of patrons in the cozy dining room. I saw a group of equestrian-geared riders; some younger, eclectically bearded foodies; and a local Toyota car dealer, who’s somewhat of a celebrity, holding court with some other nicely dressed businessmen.

The other thing is Morevino’s impossibly long wine list. It’s like Brian couldn’t decide which wines were his favorites that month, so he bought them all! At any given time, 144 different varieties are offered, ranging in origin from the Pacific Northwest to Europe and Argentina, anywhere that can produce an exceptional bottle. Ask good questions and your tastes will be expertly matched with a memorable wine that will pair with dinner perfectly. He also offers many full bottles in the reasonable $25-$30 range.

If you’d prefer something a bit stronger, Morevino also offers an excellent list of craft cocktails. For a fresh taste, try the Maiden Victory, a nice blend that includes Knob Creek, Berentzen Peach, ginger beer, and fresh lime.

YOU MUST TRY—The Lamb Sliders appetizer features ground lamb on sweet rolls. The mustard that accompanied them had just the right blend of creamy and spicy.

The Crab Cakes, another one of their outstanding appetizers, is worth ordering. The jumbo lump crab meat isn’t breaded like in most places, which offers a lighter take on a pretty popular choice. The Creole mustard sauce zings with just a hint of heat.

Crab Cakes with Creole mustard sauce

The Pork Tenderloin was an impressive display upon arrival. It was nutty and buttery in flavor, with a little brown sugar and Cajun spice in the mix for good measure, and was accompanied by a creamy risotto. The other side dish of squash and zucchini was crisp and fresh and probably purchased at the Downtown Market that Saturday.

Lastly, next time I return I’m ordering the meatloaf. One came by our table and I was half-tempted to snag the generous slice right off the plate.

A NICE SURPRISE—The Charcuterie Board, an item not found at many restaurants, features a generous portion of freshly sliced meats, cheeses, olives, and pickles. At $27, it’s almost like an extra entrée, but share it with the others at your table and your actual entrees will soon arrive before you know it.

Another surprise is that Morevino has its own private label wine—Of course they do!—Morevino Pinot Noir, which features grapes grown in the Sonoma Coast Carneros region of California. Brian says it’s “inviting for every palate,” has a “light to medium body,” and is “not too dry and not too sweet.” It’s produced at the Schug Estate Winery that specializes in Pinot Noir wines.

THE INSIDER—Brian’s expertise on wines really is the heart of this restaurant. A couple of his specials prove this.

Morevino puts all of its Italian wines on sale every Tuesday for 20 percent off. Your best bet is to make your entrée selections and then ask your server—or Brian himself—for a good recommendation. You may have a new favorite you’ll want to find for purchase later. Good wines, good food, and good friends are always meant to be enjoyed.

He also puts his knowledge on display one Sunday a month for a unique wine dinner. For $95 per person, guests will get an unforgettable private meal with a full-course dinner and a series of paired wines from all around the world. Please keep in mind that these typically book well in advance.

Owner Brian Morey

THE FINAL WORD—Well, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the desserts, all made from scratch weekly, highlights from his mother’s recipes. The night we were there he was featuring Carrot Cake and Death By Chocolate, both memorable takes on well-worn selections.

And, with that, a typical meal at Morevino comes to a close. I’m sure the Morevino family, many of whom also work in the restaurant, would like to poll you before leaving as they learn what Ocala wants out of this relatively new endeavor.

“I hope the people love us as much as we love them,” Brain says on his website. Well, Brian, I think you know the answer.

Morevino Restaurant & Wine Bar 11 East Silver Springs Blvd. (352) 304-5100 morevinowine.com