“In this time of global reckoning the island's connection to the sea has proved as important to its people now as it was 75 years ago.”
Nane Steinhoff
Editor
@nane_steinhoff
@oceano_mag Oceanographicmag
Often referred to as the Hawaii of Europe, I was thrilled when I got the opportunity to accompany underwater photographer Nuno Vasco Rodrigues to the Portuguese island of Madeira to find out more about the natural beauty the volcanic island has to offer. We planned an itinerary off the beaten track that would bring us to the highest mountains of the volcanic island, while learning more about the region's charismatic wildlife, its history and its colourful underwater world.
While visitors to Madeira are usually aware of the island’s natural beauty, not many know about its long-standing whaling history. In recent years, locals have made it their task to reconcile the past with a sustainable, research-focused whale watching industry. With around a third of all known cetacean species visiting the Madeira archipelago throughout the year, it is direly needed.
Up in the mountains, hiking enthusiasts can explore the island’s ancient irrigation channels, the Levadas, while taking in the spectacular natural beauty of an ancient forest. Off the island, a Marine Protected Area attracts numerous large groupers. We went below the surface to meet some of them, and learn more about what makes this MPA so special.
Just 50 miles northeast of Madeira, we found the island of Porto Santo, a pioneer in the creation of artificial reefs in the form of intentionally sunk shipwrecks.
Last but not least, we visited the Desertas Islands to learn more about Madeira's elusive Mediterranean monk seal population. Researchers estimate that less than 25 individuals remain. What is being done to protect them?
MARINE MAMMALS
WRECK DIVING
THE MONK SEALS OF MADEIRA
A collection of some of the most captivating ocean photography from Madeira shared on social media, both beautiful and arresting. Tag #MYOCEAN for the opportunity to be featured within these pages.
Each Spotlight, we chat with one of the world’s leading ocean photographers and showcase a selection of their work. In this edition, we speak with award-winning photographer and Madeira local, Pedro Vasconcelos.
I 20 Learn more about the marine mammals of Madeira and the island's whaling history I 38 Dive the famous wrecks of the island I 84 Meet the last few remaining monk seals of the region I 94 Hike through Madeira's protected forests and see the impressive irrigation channel network I 104 Discover a Marine Protected Area and its inhabitants
João Canning-Clode and Diane Esson explain why Madeira is the perfect location for deepsea research.
Kerim Sabuncuoğlu explains why Madeira is so popular with underwater photographers and gives tips on what to photograph where.
“Underwater fluorescence is a real passion of mine. I really love using blue light on night dives in Madeira because you can spot things easier in the darkness. There are so many interesting fluorescent subjects to see, but I find the bearded fireworm particularly amazing.”
James Lynott
Garajau Partial
Nature Reserve
# MY OCEAN
“This image was taken just off Funchal on Madeira’s south coast. We saw several large pods of Atlantic spotted and bottlenose dolphins. It was a thrill photographing these beautiful creatures while hanging over the side of our boat. I was shooting blindly and hoping for the best. I’m happy with the outcome.”
Cal Thompson
Funchal
# MY OCEAN
Garajau Partial Nature Reserve
“A cleaning shrimp shows off its long white antennae. I prepared patiently for this one shot for about 40 minutes, waiting for the shrimp to enter the appropriate place and spread its white whiskers in the right position.”
Tomasz Szatlak
“The
bearded fireworm’s slow movements makes it an attractive subject for macro photographers. Be careful when photographing them - their white hair is a defence system that can cause skin irritation.”
Tomasz Szatlak
“A close-up shot of a spiny starfish. When you take a closer look at species that you usually see, new, fascinating details emerge.”
Kerim Sabuncuoğlu
Galo
# MY OCEAN
Worth alive more
While visitors to Madeira are usually aware of the island’s natural beauty and varied tourism offerings, not many know about its long-standing whaling history. In recent years, locals have made it their task to reconcile the past with a sustainable, research-focused whale watching industry. With around a third of all known cetacean species visiting the Madeira archipelago throughout the year, it is direly needed.
Words by Nane Steinhoff
Our boat rocks back and forth as the bright midday sun puts a sparkly sheen onto the calm sea. I listen to the enigmatic sound of small waves hitting the hull and keep eye contact with a curious seagull that has sat next to our boat for quite some time, hoping for one of our lunchtime sandwiches to end up in the water. Nobody speaks as we continue to look out at the horizon for any movement.
Suddenly, Pedro Gomes, our whale watching guide for the day, jumps up and points towards something. He spotted a glimpse of a short-finned pilot whale, he exclaims. As we slowly inch closer, a pod of around 15 short-finned pilot whales appears all around our vessel. We hear their loud breaths through their blowholes, spot two calves, and are mesmerised by the unexpectedly large cetaceans. “Males can reach up to 7.2 metres in length,” explains Gomes as we take in the peaceful scene of the pilot whales appearing and disappearing around our vessel.
Short-finned pilot whales are one of the resident cetacean species in Madeira which are known to be seen around the year by local dolphin and whale watching tour operators, but they are not the only marine animals that can be found in the archipelago’s waters. Common dolphins, spotted dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, and loggerhead turtles are all species that call Madeiran waters home.
Madeira’s position between the Azores and the Canary Islands in the North Atlantic is also ideal for watching larger whale species pass by on their migratory routes. Just five kilometres off the coast, the ocean depths can reach more than 3,000 metres, and the underwater topography is characterised by steep slopes, underwater canyons, and vast plateaus. This special terrain allows larger cetaceans that would usually be seen in deeper waters to swim close to the island’s coastline.
According to the World Cetacean Alliance, Madeira’s waters provide an important habitat for 26 whale and dolphin species which translates to around a third of all known cetacean species worldwide. In recent years, Gomes tells us, frequent visitors to the archipelago include Bryde’s whales in summer and sperm whales throughout the year. Sightings of fin whales, sei whales, common minke whales, and Cuvier’s beaked whales have also been reported. Sightings of blue whales, humpback whales, North Atlantic right whales, and orcas are less common, but still possible.
“It’s difficult to isolate Madeira from other islands in Macaronesia, a group of volcanic archipelagos that includes Madeira, the Canaries, Azores and Cape Verde, since most species live in the entire area,” explains Filipe Alves, researcher at MARE-Madeira, a local non-profit marine research institute. “At least six of the species
PREVIOUS: A sperm whale off Madeira. THIS PAGE: A pod of short-finned pilot whales.
“Short-finned pilot whales are one of the resident cetacean species in Madeira.”
Short-finned pilot whales are frequent visitors to the waters off Madeira.
“Thanks to its strategic location, Madeira has a colourful whaling history that officially began in 1940.”
present in Madeira move between the different archipelagos. That’s why research and conservation must be done in partnership with institutes and governments of the whole Macaronesia.”
Madeira’s long-standing history of marine protection began in 1971 when the Selvagens Islands Nature Reserve was founded. Located 293km from Madeira, the largest MPA in Europe with total protection has become an important refuge to many seabird and whale species and is under jurisdiction of the Madeira Nature Park. The reserve paved the way for the introduction of further MPAs and nature reserves, and Madeira itself has recently been designated as a Whale Heritage Area, a title which recognises outstanding wildlife-friendly tourism destinations. There are only nine other destinations in the world that currently hold this title.
The island’s connection with residential and visiting whale species, however, hasn’t only been a positive one. Thanks to its strategic location, Madeira has a colourful whaling history that officially began in 1940 with the installation of the first whale lookouts on Madeira and the arrival of two whaling boats and their crews from the Azores, a whaling hotspot at the time.
Shortly after the construction of the Pedro Cymbron whaling station, the first sperm whales were hunted off the island in 1941. While whaling activities from 1941 until 1945 were experimental, the creation of the Empresa Baleeira do Arquipelago de Madeira (EBAM) or the Whaling Company of the Madeira Archipelago in English, marked the official start of whaling operations in Madeira on 2 December 1944. The company was awarded an exclusive concession for whaling around the archipelago the following year, while the concession was renewed successively for 10-year periods until the company voluntarily ceased its operations in October 1981.
During the active whaling period, spotters were positioned at the viewing posts that dotted the high mountains around the island. This meant that all ocean areas could be scanned for potential whale sightings. Initially, communications between lookouts relied on using big white sheets or smoke signals. With the arrival of telephones in 1943, the lookouts were connected to EBAM so that the whale spotters were able to communicate directly with each other and the boats out at
“While whaling activities from 1941 until 1945 were experimental, the creation of the Empresa Baleeira do Arquipelago de Madeira (EBAM) or the Whaling Company of the Madeira Archipelago in English, marked the official start of whaling operations in Madeira on 2 December 1944.”
LEFT: A whale skull on one of Madeira's beaches. Photograph taken at the Whaling Museum of Madeira.
RIGHT: A freshly hunted sperm whale gets pulled onto land. Photograph taken at the Whaling Museum of Madeira.
“Thanks to a protocol created with local whale watching companies, it is now possible to collect plenty of useful information.”
A whale and dolphin watching boat off Funchal.
A close-up shot of a short-finned pilot whale.
sea by radio telephone. These improvements made it much quicker to mobilise the whaling boats and hunting sperm whales became more efficient. In the early years, sperm whales were primarily hunted from Porto Moniz and butchered at a rudimentary installation at Ribeira da Janela. In 1942, a new whaling station was created at Funchal/Garajau, expanding the hunt to the south coast of Madeira. These whaling stations and the associated butchering installations operated until the 1950s when all activities were moved to Caniçal.
The first whaling boats were powered by sail and oars in fashion of the Azorean boats that came over to Madeira to establish the local whaling industry. The silent hunts were relatively slow and difficult and were only able to target individual whales.
Through the introduction of motorised whaling boats from 1957, the whaling strategy changed significantly, and Madeiran whaling boats became more efficient. The whaling master Eleutério Reis wanted to kill more animals with fewer whaling boats, so he invented a whaling strategy that broke with the traditional technique introduced by the Azorean whalers. Unlike the traditional technique, the Madeiran technique was based on a noisy approach to the animals.
The sound of the motor was used to form a sound barrier below the water which drove the sperm whales closer to the coast where they could be hunted more easily. Back in the factory, the killed whales’ blubber was then melted in pressure cookers to produce two types of oil, while the flesh and bones were turned into flour or ‘meal’. Tools and works of art were also be made by the whalers using whale teeth, bones and whale baleen. This ancient art form, also called scrimshaw, reached its peak on board of American whaling ships where the crew used it to spend idle hours during the journeys.
To find out more about the island’s rich whaling history, I want to speak to some of the few Madeiran whalers still alive today. I meet 94-year-old Manuel Alves Roque in his home in the small fishing village of Caniçal who was employed as a harpooner. He remembers: “Around 80% of the population in Caniçal were involved in whaling activities back then. It was hard work. Our salary was dependant on how many whales we would catch. The more oil barrels we could fill, the better we got paid. In later years, fewer and fewer whales came to Madeira so the whaling operations stopped and most whalers turned to normal fishing activities, agriculture, or
“The museum was originally set up in 1990 to honour the whalers, preserve what was left of the whaling history of Madeira, and to transmit knowledge about the whales.”
Two sperm whales swim off Madeira.
the construction industry.” He continues: “When we caught a whale, it usually started slapping its tail on the surface which would attract other whales to come. We then drove them towards shore, so the entire group was easier to catch. On one occasion, we caught around 42 sperm whales in total. The sea turned red. We worked for 8 days around the clock to cut this group up.” He tells us that the primary target of the whalers were sperm whales, but that they caught the occasional fin and right whale too.
In 1981, EBAM voluntarily ceased operations as the demand for whale meat fell, and oil prices went down. Synthetic oils became popular, so the industry wasn’t lucrative anymore. During the 40 years of whaling with harpoons in Madeira, around 6,000 cetaceans were killed - an average of 150 individuals annually, according to an estimation by a local whale watching company.
As part of my time on Madeira, I’m invited to meet Luís Freitas, head of the Science Unit at the Whaling Museum of Madeira in Caniçal. The interactive museum reveals fascinating insights into the archipelago’s long-standing whaling history through 3D videos, images, original whaling boats, life-size whale models, and scrimshaw art, while cleverly forming a bridge between Madeira’s past and present.
“The museum was originally set up in 1990 to honour the whalers, preserve what was left of the whaling history of Madeira, and to transmit knowledge about the whales,” explains Freitas, adding: “The original museum was located in the heart of Caniçal and was really small. Because the space wasn’t that big, information about the whales was scarce. What we tried to do here in our new location that opened in 2011, was to give both the whaling history and cetacean species some spotlight. Our concept combines two rooms – one is looking at the past, and one is looking towards the future.”
The work of the museum, however, goes far beyond equipping the exhibition rooms. Shortly after my arrival, Freitas takes me down to the museum’s ground floor where vast laboratories are located. In addition to documenting the whaling history of Madeira, the museum works on numerous scientific research and conservation projects, he tells me.
“Our science team monitors cetaceans around the island and uses the collected data to give advice to the government in terms of measurements. As an example, our data helped establish the whale watching legislation for Madeiran waters. We also study human activities and interactions with cetaceans and try to understand the seasonal movements of the different species that use the
archipelago’s waters,” Freitas explains. “We also have more behaviour-focused work for which we use biologging, deploy transmitters and so on, to find out more about the species,” he adds.
As Freitas leads me into a white, sterile room with an odd smell, he says that the museum’s science department puts special emphasis on understanding the cause of death of stranded animals: “We want to know whether the death was caused by a ship strike or the ingestion of plastic, for example. So, when a dead marine animal gets found, we bring it here to dissect and analyse it.”
The collected data not only helps update the museum’s collection, but also gets funnelled into the museum’s educational department. “We have teachers coming here to work. They sit in the offices upstairs where they filter all of this information into curriculums that are appropriate for all ages, from kindergarten to the 12th grade. You basically have science feeding education and museology here.”
As I walk out the museum, I look at the steep characteristic cliffs on my right, while gazing across the harbour of Caniçal. In this moment, it’s hard to imagine that this peaceful town was once at the epicentre of whaling. Even though whaling is now strictly forbidden around the archipelago, remnants of the whaling period can still be found across Madeira. The old whale spotting posts, for example, are still used today – not by whalers, but by whale and dolphin watching companies and researchers that hope to help protect the many resident and visiting cetacean species.
“Thanks to a protocol created with local whale watching companies, it is now possible to collect plenty of useful information that is extremely valuable since these companies are in the water every day,” says Filipe Alves. “We can often identify individuals by photos taken on these ecotourism tours, and their reports can help detect the presence or absence of certain species. Additionally, most of these companies have biologists on board which makes the information flow easier between companies and researchers,” he adds.
Since whaling ceased in Madeira, the island has moved from hunting whales for profit to protecting them. The whale watching industry is rife, and local operators make sure to not only act responsibly, but to also help advance research objectives.
While there is no doubt that sperm whale numbers have been significantly reduced by the intense hunting activities, the Madeiran community has managed to move towards present-day conservation and appreciation of the diverse fauna.
A BEACON FOR DEEP-SEA RESEARCH
Deep-sea research is not cheap. Costs rapidly add up to make deep-sea ventures prohibitively expensive for all but the most lucratively endowed of research institutions. Unsurprisingly then, experts in deepsea research tend to congregate in countries that are wealthy enough to invest in cutting-edge deep-sea technologies. Over the last 50 years, the foresight of these countries and their institutions have accelerated our understanding of the deep to the benefit of all. The problem with this model, however, is that national or institutional wealth is not correlated to ease of access to the deep. This means that deepsea research is not always done where it is most cost-effective to do so. This means that, as a global community in a race against the threats of climate change, we are likely wasting time and money.
Madeira is a volcanic island in the northeast Atlantic best known for Cristiano Ronaldo’s right foot. Less known about this island is its unique natural advantages for deep-sea research.
With easy access to the deep sea, relatively calm waters and mild weather, deep-sea research can be done in Madeira more regularly and more cheaply than many other locations around the world. Swim just 500 metres from Madeira’s coast and you’re already on top of the deep sea. A couple kilometres more and the island’s steep volcanic slopes drop to a 1,000 metres. A 15-minute boat ride away and the waters reach 4,000 metres. With upfront capital and operating costs more than 100-times less expensive than open-ocean research vessels taking researchers and equipment off the continental shelf in other
“Less known about this island is its unique natural advantages for deep-sea research.”
A research ship off Madeira. Photograph by Florian Huber.
locations, and with day-trip logistics far simpler than those for month-long cruises, some of the greatest barriers to deep-sea research fall away in Madeira as quickly as the seafloor itself. The other common barrier to deep-sea research is Mother Nature. In many places, research expeditions aren’t feasible in winter months, when the ocean’s swell is too rough or storms too disruptive to risk the equipment. In contrast, Madeira has mild weather and relatively calm seas year-round. As such, researchers in Madeira can go out on the water to do research every month of the year.
We have long believed that Madeira can leave a legacy on deep-sea research. In one way, it already has: Madeira was an important waypoint and regular research spot of the HMS Challenger expedition of 1872, widely regarded as the birth of deep-sea exploration. Since that time, given the economic constraints of the island and financial constraints of its research institutes, however, deep-sea research has not kept pace. But through low-cost innovation, local and international partnerships and dogged creativity, researchers in Madeira have steadily been working toward realising the island’s vast potential over the last decade.
Our vision is for a global deep-sea research hub on Madeira that prioritises regular, year-round and low-cost deep-sea research. Which brings us to yet another advantage of the island: its geographic position in the North Atlantic makes it easy for scientists to come from across the globe to conduct their research. We envision researchers coming to use our facilities and low-cost methods for deep-sea research. We hope this will prove a model for other economies, help democratize the deep, and accelerate deep-sea research.
We see this future of collaborative deep-sea research as important not only for our global understanding of the ocean, but also for the benefit of our island community. Madeira has suffered from a lack of high-skilled employment opportunities. A global deep-sea research hub would enable our own expertise and knowledge base to grow through partnerships, catalyzing further development of our island’s research institutes. Over time, more highskilled job opportunities could emerge.
And so, in the deep waters that surround our island’s coast lies an opportunity for economic development. Not through exploitation, but through the much-needed understanding of deep-sea habitats.
About João
JoãoCanning-Clodeisamarineecologist andaPrincipalInvestigatoratthe RegionalAgencyfortheDevelopmentof Research,TechnologyandInnovation–ARDITI. He is the founder and director of Madeira’sregionalresearchunitofMARE - Marine and Environmental Research Centre.JoãoisalsoanEdinburghOcean Leader and has authored over 100 publications.
50 miles northeast of Madeira, Porto Santo is renowned for its stunning sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. Below the surface, the island is a pioneer in the creation of artificial reefs in the form of intentionally sunk shipwrecks.
Words by Nuno Vasco Rodrigues
PREVIOUS: A dusky grouper near Madeirense. THIS PAGE: A diver at the Cordeca shipwreck.
Countless pieces of equipment that once served as a means of transportation for people or goods, as weapons of war or for marine exploration, now lie in the almost absolute silence of the seabed. A ship's useful life, however, does not necessarily end when it sinks. Despite the curiosity that shipwrecks spark in us, it is the frequent inaccessibility that typically characterises them, either because of the great depths at which they are found, their restrictive access for military or security reasons, or simply because of the tremendous logistics and costs involved in exploring them. Millions of shipwrecks are scattered across the world’s oceans, from sunken World War II destroyers, to colonial Spanish galleons and small abandoned dinghies. The reasons for sinking vary and can include storms, navigational errors, warfare, accidents, and natural disasters. Some of them, however, have been sunk intentionally. And while some of these are well-documented and explored, others may lie in remote or deep-sea locations, still waiting to be discovered.
Fortunately, some shipwrecks can be explored simply by using diving equipment, which makes them accessible to almost everyone. Generally, all it takes is some specific dive training. Diving on a sunken wreck can be a fascinating experience. A mixture of emotions runs through the divers who do it. They feel like marine explorers discovering an unknown world full of mysteries or like archaeologists on a journey to see something longabandoned and considered lost forever.
Shipwreck diving options can be found around the world: the Truk Lagoon in Micronesia, the coast of the Egyptian Rea Sea, the islands of Malta or the Florida Keys are just a few famous examples of places where shipwrecks are popular among divers, but there are many more across the globe, each with its own unique history and underwater landscapes. In these places, they play a critical role in the diving industry, attracting tourists every year.
Sometime in the ‘70s, several countries decided to intentionally start sinking obsolete vessels to attract tourists and to create artificial reefs that would attract fishes to the area. “The installation of these structures creates new homes for a variety of marine life,” states Avery Paxton, a researcher with the National Oceanic
and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) National Centers for Coastal Ocean Science, who studies the ecology of artificial reefs. According to NOAA, planned manmade reefs may provide local economic benefits because they attract fish to a known location and are therefore popular attractions for commercial and recreational fishermen, divers, and snorkellers.
Portugal, with a past closely linked to maritime voyages, discoveries, and exploration, but also an agent with great representation on the international maritime route to this day, has a large number and variety of shipwrecks from north to south. Some can also be found near the islands of the Azores and Madeira. Some of them have virtually disappeared through time, 'digested' by the marine ecosystem, but others preserve their skeleton practically intact, presenting themselves as impressive structures and invariably an oasis of marine life.
The country, therefore, presents itself as a real sanctuary of shipwrecks, whether from a historical, exploratory, or recreational perspective. And the international diving community has already realised this, with more and more divers flying to this corner of Europe to explore, study, catalogue, and photograph them.
Portugal is at the forefront when it comes to creating artificial reefs by using shipwrecks too. As an example, the largest artificial reef in Europe, consisting of four navy vessels, is located off Portimão, Algarve. Sitting at 30 metres depth, although reachable from 16 metres or shallower, the reef is accessible to scuba divers of all levels who wish to explore and experience wreck diving.
Portugal is at the forefront when it comes to creating artificial reefs by using shipwrecks. “ ”
Renowned for its stunning nine-kilometre-long golden sandy beach along its south coast, Porto Santo features an arid climate characterised by minimal precipitation and a barren landscape.
Sinking a ship intentionally for recreational diving purposes is a complex and regulated process. It involves thorough planning, adherence to environmental regulations, and coordination with relevant authorities. While it may sound like an exciting idea, it's crucial to prioritise safety, environmental considerations, and compliance with local laws. The ‘Ocean Revival’ name given to the artificial reef off Portimão, implicated many years of planning and a ton of bureaucracy, but also a considerable effort in the preparation and cleaning of the ships to make them diveable.
Gonçalo Calado, Professor of Ecology and Marine Biology at Lusófona University, in Lisbon, followed the project from the very beginning. “At the time (2010), there was no specific legislation on environmental impact, so an environmental impact analysis was carried out,” he said.
“The entire ship was washed, degreased and the plastics, coatings and wiring, oils and fuels were removed. As regards to diver safety, all sharp edges or parts that could interfere with the divers' progress were removed and at all time passages are open (when a diver sees an exit beyond the passage they entered),” highlights the researcher, who is also a dive instructor.
In 2012, the first two vessels were sunk, followed by two more in 2013. Since then, thousands of divers have had the opportunity to explore the wrecks, to learn about the history of each of the ships, but also to witness the abundance of marine life that has colonised the reef in the meantime. “In all cases in Portugal, a monitoring programme has been designed to track the structuring of the communities that have settled/associated with the new reef.
This programme is particularly important for monitoring nonindigenous species,” Calado concludes.
Another example of great success is located in the island of Porto Santo, in Madeira. The island, located 50 miles northeast of Madeira, can be accessed from Funchal by boat in approximately 2.5 hours or by plane in no more than 30 minutes. Renowned for its stunning nine-kilometre-long golden sandy beach along its south coast, the island features an arid climate characterised by minimal precipitation and a barren landscape. Despite the aridity, the surrounding waters maintain a relatively warm temperature and crystal-clear clarity throughout the year. Covering a mere 42 square kilometres, equivalent to the size of San Francisco city, the island boasts several hotel resorts lining its shoreline. Additionally, it is a favoured destination among the aristocratic class in Madeira, with numerous families owning summer houses on the island.
The south side of Porto Santo island.
The Madeirense shipwreck from above.
In October 2000, ten years before the Ocean Revival was an idea, Porto Santo led the way in the creation of artificial reefs in Portugal. ‘Madeirense’ became the first shipwreck to be intentionally converted into an artificial reef in Portugal.
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The installation of these structures creates new homes for a variety of marine life.
LEFT PAGE: The Cordeca shipwreck. THIS PAGE: Life flourishes on every inch of the wreck's surface and around the artifical structure.
A large school of yellowmouth barracuda near Cordeca shipwreck.
In October 2000, ten years before the Ocean Revival was an idea, Porto Santo led the way in the creation of artificial reefs in Portugal. ‘Madeirense’ became the first shipwreck to be intentionally converted into an artificial reef in Portugal. The Portuguese cargo ship, built in 1962, initially had capacity for 12 passengers and was designed to transport bananas from the island of Madeira to Portugal’s mainland. In the early 1990s, it was modified to allow it to carry more passengers, and it began to make the Funchal-Porto Santo connection, playing a critical role in supplying that island. Progress and technological development would make it obsolete, hence the choice for sinking.
More than 20 years later, ‘Madeirense’ is one of the most popular dive sites in Portugal. According to Emanuel Almada, diving instructor at Porto Santo Sub, one of the three diving companies operating in Porto Santo, "the favourable weather conditions and clear waters that characterize this island, combined with the fact that the place of sinking is sheltered from wind and current, and located just a few minutes by boat from the Porto Santo marina, make it an all-year-round dive spot".
Diving in the ‘Madeirense’ is a truly fascinating experience. The descent is a plunge into the immense blue, but with good visibility, just a few metres below the surface, divers can see a dark shadow that becomes more distinct as the descent continues. Reaching 15 metres, the wreck is revealed almost in its entirety, in an astonishing perspective.
The entire surface of the wreck is now completely covered with colonizing marine organisms such as algae, bryozoans or corals in a unique kaleidoscope of colours, patterns and shapes. It’s also possible to observe various species of crustaceans, mollusks or marine worms roaming the different sections of the ship where waves once hit, passengers sat, crew members operated or bananas were transported. Invariably, divers are greeted by large and inquisitive dusky groupers, the guardians of the wreck. Always curious, these gentle giants approach the visitors as if welcoming them but showing them that this is their home and they will be watching their every move.
One of the greatest spectacles of this dive, however, takes place in the water column surrounding the wreck. Thousands of breams and bogues form shoals that surround the wreck, moving synchronously and confusing the large jacks, sharks, and barracudas
that swarm over the shoals in the hope of satisfying their hunger. The seafloor, at approximately 30 metres deep, is sandy, but not less interesting. Stingrays, red mullets and garden eels are common around the wreck and well worth a visit.
The limited air in your dive tank will require you to ascend after a while, but every diver is left with the promise of returning, as there is so much to explore that one dive simply isn’t enough. The tremendous success of the ‘Madeirense’ wreck in the diving community, with tourists coming from all around specifically for this dive, has had a significant impact in the island’s visibility and, consequently, its economy. Aware of this, the local regional government stepped up its commitment to this sector with another sinking in 2016. This time, the vessel chosen was the ‘General Pereira d'Eça’ (CORDECA), an 85m-long navy corvette, built in 1970. The sinking site is approximately two miles from the ‘Madeirense’, in the bay of Porto Santo, part of the island's network of marine protected areas.
Prior to this sinking, just as in the Ocean Revival, a scientific monitoring programme was implemented. "This programme included a multidisciplinary team, and the aim was to monitor the fauna and flora communities present at the designated site before and after the shipwreck, in order to understand the potential impact it would have on these communities," says Mafalda Freitas, a member of the project team and currently the Regional Director of the Sea. According to a report published in 2018, the initial results indicate that no negative impacts have been detected as a result of the sinking of the corvette, but it states that "it is necessary to continue monitoring it in order to assess the trajectory of convergence with natural habitats and to understand how this will continue over time".
As for the diving itself, it quickly becomes obvious that it is moving at a fast pace to achieve the same success of its older 'brother' ‘Madeirense’, with a noticeable increase in abundance and diversity with each passing year, attracting more and more divers to the island of Porto Santo. The growth of the international diving community opens up promising revenue in places that favour this type of offer, such as Porto Santo. It is essential, however, that these initiatives are always monitored by studies similar to the ones mentioned for CORDECA and Ocean Revival, in order to assess their impact on ecosystems.
After all, we can’t run the risk of losing the biological identity that makes each of these places so unique and special.
Almaco jacks hunt small bogues, horse mackerel and other schooling fish around the Madeirense wreck.
Behind the lens
Behind the Lens places a spotlight on the world’s foremost ocean conservation photographers. Each edition focusses on the work of an individual who continues to shape global public opinion through powerful imagery and compelling storytelling.
PEDRO VASCONCELOS
Pedro Vasconcelos is an underwater photographer, videographer, and diving instructor from Madeira.
His aim is to capture the beauty of nature and the diverse marine life that exists around Madeira with his camera. In his role as diving instructor, his ultimate goal is to get as many people as possible to enjoy the underwater world.
Born on Madeira, Pedro Vasconcelos has been passionate about the ocean from a very young age. After becoming a scuba diving instructor, he founded the Focus Natura scuba diving centre on the island to get more people to explore Madeira's local dive sites and the island's diverse marine life. He serves as the president of the jury for the Mares Underwater competition in Croatia, and participates in the Madeira Underwater Open.
Q&A
SPOTLIGHT: WHEN DID YOU FIRST CONNECT WITH THE OCEAN?
PEDRO VASCONCELOS (PV): “Growing up on Madeira Island, I've always felt a deep connection to the sea. It's like I was born with saltwater in my veins. My childhood was filled with endless days of snorkelling, sailing, and windsurfing, immersing myself in the vast blue expanse that surrounded me. As I grew older, my love for the ocean only deepened. At the age of 16, I discovered the incredible world beneath the surface through scuba diving, and it has become a passion that continues to shape my life to this day. I can't imagine a day where I'm not exploring the mysteries of the sea. I hope this connection lasts a lifetime.”
SPOTLIGHT: WHEN AND WHY DID YOU FIRST PICK UP A CAMERA? HOW DID YOU CONNECT THE DOTS BETWEEN YOUR PASSION FOR PHOTOGRAPHY AND YOUR PASSION FOR THE OCEAN?
PV: “As a diving instructor for many years, I have had the pleasure of witnessing the transformative power of underwater photography on my students. It was back in 1999 when one of my students first delved into the world of underwater photos, sparking a newfound passion within me. Our shared love for capturing the beauty beneath the surface forged a strong friendship that endures to this day. Inspired by their images, I too felt compelled to pick up a camera and showcase the mesmerising wonders of the underwater realm. The urge to reveal the hidden treasures of our world through photography became a driving force in my life, propelling me to explore new depths and share the enchanting beauty that lies beneath the waves with others.”
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT IS THE MAIN THING THAT, IN YOUR OPINION, ELEVATED YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY ONTO A PROFESSIONAL LEVEL?
PV: "I strive to authentically capture the essence of the underwater world at its truest. Every day is an opportunity for me to learn and grow, refining my skills in underwater photography and videography. My goal is always to create stunning visuals that not only do justice to the marine beauty but also inspire non-divers to feel the urge to explore the depths themselves. By bringing the magic of the ocean to life through my lens, I aim to ignite a sense of wonder and curiosity in everyone who views my work."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT MADEIRA? WHY DID YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH THE PLACE?
PV: "Madeira holds a special place in my heart because it's where I was born and raised. It's not just a place to me, it's my home. Living in Madeira means more than just its stunning weather year-round, which makes it one of the safest and most attractive places to live. The beautiful climate here means we can enjoy diving adventures every single day of the year, making it a paradise for water enthusiasts like me. There's just something about the island that captivates me, and I can't help but feel a deep love for everything it has to offer."
SPOTLIGHT: YOUR UNIQUE PHOTOGRAPHY STYLE CONVEYS A SENSE OF LAND AND SEA. HOW HAS MADEIRA SHAPED YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY?
PV: "My photography is deeply influenced and moulded by the beautiful intricacies of nature, the rich tapestry of my life experiences, and the diverse array of people I encounter here on Madeira. The natural world serves as my ultimate muse, captivating me with its ever-changing hues and textures, inspiring me to capture moments of raw beauty and fleeting serenity through my lens. Each personal experience I have lived through adds a unique layer of depth and emotion to my photography, infusing it with a sense of authenticity and storytelling. Moreover, the people I connect with bring a dynamic element to my work, allowing me to explore the complexities of human emotions, relationships, and personalities through the captivating medium of photography."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT MADEIRAN UNDERWATER LANDSCAPES, THE CONDITIONS, AND THE LOCAL MARINE LIFE?
PV: "Madeira's waters are known for their rapid descent into the depths; within just a few metres of the shore, you'll find yourself surrounded by several hundred metres of water. Despite the quick plunge, what truly captivates explorers of the underwater world in Madeira is the remarkable visibility and diverse array of marine life that flourishes below the surface. The crystal-clear waters offer a window into a thriving ecosystem, where vibrant corals, exotic fish species, and other fascinating creatures coexist in a dazzling display of biodiversity. Every dive in Madeira is a visual feast, with the clarity of the waters allowing you to appreciate the richness and beauty of the ocean like never before."
SPOTLIGHT: YOU’VE BEEN SHOOTING UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHS AROUND MADEIRA FOR A WHILE. WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CONSERVATION CONCERNS IN THE AREA? HOW HAS THE OCEAN ENVIRONMENT CHANGED?
PV: "My primary environmental concern revolves around the pollution affecting underwater ecosystems, particularly from both plastics and sediment. While we may not have the visible plastic waste problem that is prevalent in other regions of the world, the presence of microscopic plastic particles poses a hidden threat to marine life. Additionally, the accumulation of sediment and debris that flows from the land into the seabed has reached alarming levels. These pollutants not only disturb the delicate balance of the underwater environment but also have long-lasting effects on the marine ecosystem as a whole."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE TO HELP THE ISLAND’S UNDERWATER WORLD? WHAT NEEDS CHANGING?
PV: "It is evident that there is a growing need for individuals to move beyond mere words and begin taking concrete actions towards creating meaningful change. Unfortunately, this shift towards tangible progress is currently lacking in various aspects across the board."
SPOTLIGHT: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY STYLE?
PV: "I try to keep my shots as natural as possible. When it comes to capturing captivating wildlife photography, the key is to immerse yourself in the natural habitat of the animals. By observing their behaviours and interactions in their own
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Behind the lens
environment, you can truly capture the essence of their personalities. So, grab your camera, head out into the wilderness, and let the magic of nature inspire your lens."
SPOTLIGHT: HOW HARD WAS IT TO DEVELOP YOUR OWN STYLE?
PV: "As I mentioned before, diving is a natural activity that may not seem difficult at first glance, but it certainly poses a challenge. The limitations of our human bodies prevent us from staying underwater indefinitely, leading to situations where we must resurface even when we wish we could stay below. In these instances, we often have to forego capturing the perfect shot in favour of prioritising safety above all else."
SPOTLIGHT: YOU ALSO WORK AS A DIVING INSTRUCTOR. HAS THE DEMAND FOR DIVING AROUND MADEIRA INCREASED IN RECENT YEARS?
PV: "Over the past four years, due to the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic, yes. Madeira has emerged as a secure and welcoming destination for diving enthusiasts. The island's reputation as a haven for underwater exploration has attracted a growing number of people seeking to either embark on their diving journey or to experience the unique underwater beauty that Madeira offers. Despite the challenges posed by the global health crisis, Madeira has maintained its status as a safe haven for diving and continues to draw visitors from all over the world."
SPOTLIGHT: BEFORE A SHOOT, DO YOU HAVE A PHOTO IN MIND OR DO YOU TEND TO IMPROVISE?
PV: "In reality, it is a mix of improvising and being prepared. In the underwater world, being prepared is key, but so is embracing the unexpected. You never truly know what you might encounter down there - it's a wild, unpredictable environment. Sure, there are moments where you can anticipate certain things and plan accordingly, like deciding whether to focus on capturing macro shots or vibrant fish swimming by. Nevertheless, a significant chunk of the work, about 70% of it, actually comes down to thinking on your feet and adapting quickly to whatever comes your way in order to nail that perfect photo or video. It's all about being flexible, staying alert, and making the most out of every situation to get that killer shot."
SPOTLIGHT: HOW DO YOU FEEL WHEN WORKING IN THE WATER?
PV: "I am filled with an overwhelming sense of euphoria. It's like I belong to the vast expanse of the ocean and the enchanting realm of the underwater world. The feeling of connection I experience is profound, as if I am a natural extension of these magnificent and mysterious environments. The tranquility and beauty that envelop me transport me to a state of pure bliss, where all worries and stress seem to vanish into the depths of the sea. It's a sensation unlike any other, a sense of oneness with the pulsating tides and the vibrant marine life that dance around me. In these moments, I am truly at peace, embraced by the soothing embrace of the ocean and its mesmerising underwater wonders."
SPOTLIGHT: DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE DIVE SITE AROUND MADEIRA?
PV: "I don't have a specific diving spot that I prefer, simply because I find joy in exploring the underwater world no matter where I am."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT’S THE BEST UNDERWATER MOMENT YOU HAVE HAD AROUND MADEIRA?
PV: "I have experienced numerous unforgettable moments that are difficult to categorize or rank in terms of their significance. Among these moments, the ones that stand out the most to me are those involving fish and their intriguing behaviour. There is something truly captivating about observing the interactions between different fish species and witnessing, first-hand, the unique ways in which they engage with their environment. One particular behaviour that never fails to fascinate me is when fish exhibit protective instincts, especially when guarding their eggs. In Madeira, we are fortunate to have a grouper species that display almost dog-like characteristics. These friendly groupers have a remarkable ability to form connections with humans, approaching us with a trust and familiarity that is reminiscent of a beloved pet. It is a special privilege to be able to interact with these fish, offering them gentle caresses and companionship as they swim alongside us, almost as if they were our companions in the underwater world."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT EQUIPMENT DO YOU USE?
PV: "Good lighting is crucial when it comes to underwater photography and videography. Without adequate light, your images and videos can lack vibrancy and depth. To ensure I capture the best possible colours, I make sure to have a variety of lighting options at my disposal. For videos, I rely on several lights, while for photos, I use a range of flashes. Currently, my photography setup includes equipment from Nikon, such as the D800 and Z7II cameras, which allow me to capture high-quality images both on land and underwater. When shooting videos, I pair these cameras with an Atomos V recorder to enhance the video quality. To protect my gear and enable underwater shooting, I use Nauticam housings, which provide a secure and watertight environment for my equipment. In addition to my professional cameras, I also utilise my mobile phone for capturing video footage underwater. To do this, I use the Divevolk housing, which allows me to take advantage of the phone's camera capabilities while exploring beneath the surface. This combination of equipment enables me to be versatile in my underwater photography and videography pursuits, ensuring that I can capture stunning visuals regardless of the setting or conditions."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT MESSAGE YOU WANT TO SHARE WITH YOUR WORK?
PV: "I want people to be passionate about the underwater world and want to give them a fascination for the hidden wonders of nature that lie beneath the water's surface. The endless possibilities for exploration and the chance to connect with the marine environment on a deeper level make the underwater world a source of endless fascination and wonder."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT HAS YOUR WORK TAUGHT YOU ABOUT THE OCEAN?
PV: "That every day is different and that you can always spot something exciting and something new."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS AND TRICKS FOR UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY? WHAT IS YOUR NUMBER ONE ADVICE FOR PEOPLE TRYING TO GET BETTER AT IT?
PV: "First and foremost, it is essential to be a skilled and competent diver to ensure that safety is never put at risk. Embracing a mindset of continuous learning is equally crucial. Always maintain a thirst for knowledge and seek out opportunities to learn from individuals who are already excelling in their diving pursuits. By observing, asking questions, and absorbing their expertise, you can enhance your own abilities and aspire to achieve similar levels of success in the world of diving."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT’S YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH SOCIAL MEDIA?
PV: "I'm not very active on social media at the moment, but I'm slowly starting to get the hang of it. I've realised that it's actually a great platform for showcasing my work, especially when it comes to highlighting the stunning beauty of the underwater world. I believe that in the future, mobile phones will play a crucial role in capturing the day-to-day essence of our Blue Planet through photos and videos. It's an exciting prospect that holds immense potential for spreading awareness and appreciation for our marine ecosystems."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT PROJECTS ARE YOU CURRENTLY WORKING ON?
PV: "I am currently involved in organizing the III Madeira Underwater Open, Photo, and Video Championship, an esteemed international competition set to be held on the stunning Porto Santo Island from the 11th to the 16th of May. This eagerly anticipated event will attract talented photographers and videographers from all around the globe, eager to showcase their skills in capturing the breathtaking underwater world. Participants can look forward to a week filled with thrilling competitions, networking opportunities, and the chance to explore the island's rich marine biodiversity. It's a fantastic opportunity for enthusiasts and professionals alike to come together, celebrate their passion for underwater photography and videography, and create lasting memories in this idyllic island setting."
SPOTLIGHT: WHAT’S NEXT ON YOUR AGENDA? ANY BIG PLANS FOR 2024 AND BEYOND?
PV: "In 2024, my schedule is packed with exciting underwater events. Not only am I looking forward to participating in the III Madeira Underwater Open, but I also have the honour of serving as the president of the jury for the Mares Underwater competition in Croatia. Additionally, I will be travelling to Albania for the World Championship of Underwater Photo and Video as the national selector for Portugal. Juggling these responsibilities promises to be a thrilling adventure filled with incredible diving experiences and the opportunity to connect with fellow underwater enthusiasts from around the world."
A brown moray eel hides in Madeira's rocky underwater topography.
A variety of smaller fish species visit the wrecks that were intentionally sunk for diving purposes.
A parrotfish. "Their beautiful colours and unique behaviour make any photographer happy," says Vasconcelos.
Madeira A close-up shot of a tuberculate abalone.
Madeira Two parrotfish interlock their lips.
Madeira
Porto Santo Island
Madeira
A streaked gurnard sits on the rocky seabed.
Madeira A club-tipped anemone.
Garajau, Madeira A close-up shot of a dusky grouper's eye.
Madeira
Madeira
A cleaner shrimp emerges from a giant anemone.
Madeira
A parrotfish shows off its teeth.
Madeira A purple flatworm, a common sight on Madeira's rocky reefs.
Madeira A colourful ornate wrasse.
Madeira An Atlantic dancing shrimp.
rarest seal THE WORLD'S
The Mediterranean monk seal is the most endangered mammal species in the world. In Madeira and the nearby Desertas Islands, researchers estimate that less than 25 individuals remain. What is being done to protect them?
Words by Nane Steinhoff
We saw one just now, right here in the bay. You should make your way down as soon as possible,” says João Martins, a local diving instructor who has sworn to share any monk seal sightings with us excitedly through the phone. We hop in our rental car and drive straight down to Pedra D’eira beach in Caniçal. There, in the middle of the bay, just metres from a busy beach where people enjoy their Sunday afternoon with drinks and loud music, we spot its short snout and large head bopping in the water. Just as quickly as it appeared, it dives back down and disappears in the azure blue water. “If it stays in the bay, it should come up for its next breath of air within 12 minutes,” says Nuno Vasco Rodrigues, a marine biologist and underwater photographer who I’m on this assignment with. Finally, after spending days on the water without any luck, we have caught a glimpse of our first elusive monk seal.
One of the largest seals in the world, monk seals can reach 3m in length and can weigh up to 350kg. As females can only have one pup per year, the species is especially vulnerable to extinction. Like elsewhere around the world, seeing monk seals around Madeira is incredibly rare. First spotted by Portuguese navigators as early as the 15th century around the Portuguese archipelago, monk seals were extensively hunted to extract their skin and blubber. Today’s major threats to these mammals include “displacement and habitat deterioration, deliberate killing by humans, and fisheries bycatch and entanglement”, according to information shared by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). As of 2022, it was estimated that only 600 to 700 Mediterranean monk seals remain across its distribution range, encompassing the eastern Mediterranean and some parts of the Northeast Atlantic, such as Cabo Blanco and Madeira. Here in Madeira, researchers believe that only around 20 to 24 individuals remain in Madeira and the nearby Desertas Islands.
Located around 26km from the eastern tip of Madeira, the Desertas Islands are made up of three uninhabited small islands - Ilhéu Chão, Deserta Grande and Bugio - which together form the Desertas Islands Nature Reserve, a classification awarded in 1995. Since then, the islands that are part of the Natura 2000 Network, have enjoyed full protection status. On a bright, sunny morning, we board our motorboat to visit this special place with our guide for the day, Pedro Gomes who runs a local diving centre. After a choppy two-hour crossing, imposing red, orange and brown cliffs suddenly rise up
PREVIOUS: A curious monk seal investigates the camera. RIGHT: A monk seal comes up to breathe.
“Researchers believe that only around 20 to 24 individuals remain.”
“The Desertas Islands are made up of three small uninhabited islands.”
sharply in the middle of the ocean amidst the bright morning light. When we get closer, I marvel at the clarity of a mesmerising dark, turquoise water, while extensive basalt mantles tower above us. At the foot of the steep, inhospitable island, numerous small caves and indents reveal hidden stony beaches that act as resting places for the resident monk seals.
We anchor at Doca on Deserta Grande where a small wooden house is the only refuge for the two Nature Wardens that are stationed here for two-week stints at a time. The building of the house in 1988 marked the beginning of conservation efforts for the Mediterranean monk seals and its habitat. Since then, two Nature Wardens have consistently been present on the island. A large landslide behind the house exposes the island’s volcanic origins in the tall rocks. Between 2 and 5 million years old, Desertas’ geology is characterised by horizontal basaltic layers, red brown and yellow tufts which resulted from explosive volcanic eruptions, and lighter grey seams or dykes that resulted from flowing magma streams that passed through the rock.
One of the Nature Wardens, Lourenço Alves, welcomes us and joins us on our boat to drive around the islands to run us through his daily chores: “First thing in the morning, we usually take the boat out and try to go around all three islands to find and monitor the monk seals. If we spot some, we take photos of them which we later analyse to try to ID the individuals.” Other tasks include clearing plastic from the rugged beaches, looking after abandoned seal pups, and the surveillance of the surrounding areas from land and sea. “We check boats to ensure that no illegal fishing is being done in the protected zone,” explains Alves. Scuba diving and visits to the main island are only permitted with prior authorisation, he adds, while handing us a map of the three islands. The eastern part of Deserta Grande and Bugio are considered a strict reserve which means that any access is strictly forbidden without a permit. The west of Deserta Grande and Ilhéu Chão are considered a partial reserve. Domestic animals, spearfishing and the use of fishing nets are not permitted anywhere, while lobster traps have also been banned after a monk seal pup got caught and drowned in one.
To ensure that people adhere to these rules, the Nature Wardens use special drones that can land on and take off from the water, Alves tells us. This is especially important during the monk seal pupping season which runs from September until December every year. The past few years only saw a few pups being born, Alves tells us, and the few that are being born struggle to
The Desertas Islands from above.
“There seem to be new species coming up all the time on this small rock in the middle of nowhere.”
TOP: Steep cliffs dominate Deserta Grande. BOTTOM: A monk seal.
survive in the harsh terrain of the Desertas Islands.
“Last year, we counted four pups. One died, and we aren’t sure what happened to the others,” he says.
“The pupping season coincides with winter that sees large storms hit the islands. The seals then get stuck in the caves where they get injured or drown,” he adds and notes that some dead pups had bruising on their bodies that suggests that they get pushed against the rocks during storm. As I scan the islands, I notice that the beaches are slim and don’t offer too much resting space for the seals. As storms are getting more frequent because of climate change, I wonder how the breeding success will fare in the coming years.
The Wardens have recently started to set up camera traps around the islands. The collected data will be invaluable in finding out more about how storms affect the population, amongst other things. Despite the many hardships this population has fared and continues to encounter, there are some positive signs. In 1988, only six to eight monk seals were believed to live in and around Madeira. Today, around 20 to 24 individuals are distributed throughout Madeira and the Desertas Islands.
Conservation efforts and a greater degree of cooperation between countries have seen encouraging signs for other populations around the world too. While the sizes of some population are increasing like in Desertas, undocumented breeding areas were uncovered in other areas, and monk seals have shown up in entirely new regions such as Egypt, Italy and Libya. Due to these positive signs, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) reclassified the Mediterranean monk seal from ‘Critically Endangered’ to ‘Endangered’ in 2015. In June of 2023, the organisation went further and elevated the species’ status to ‘Vulnerable’, a less critical category, due to increasing population sizes in Greek waters and around the Aeolian Islands.
By monitoring the population with the newly installed photo traps, working together with scientists, and making sure that no illegal fishing or other illegal activities are carried out around the island, the Wardens hope that more answers can soon be found. “I think key will be the increased involvement from scientific people to better understand the dynamics and the ecology of the islands,” explains Alves.
The creation of the Special Protection Area of the Desertas Islands in 1990 and the 1995 reclassification of a Nature Reserve was not only motivated by the urgent need to protect the Mediterranean monk seals, but to also protect other local wildlife. The critically endangered Desertas wolf spider, for example, is only
known to live at the north end of the top of Deserta Grande. The endemic spider can reach 8cm in length and is one of the largest spiders of its kind in the world. “We don’t know why it only lives in that part of the island. More research needs to be done about that,” says Alves and mentions that another spider species has just been discovered on the island. “In one of the caves, a team of scientists recently found a spider that hasn’t been described in science yet. There seem to be new species coming up on this small rock in the middle of nowhere all the time.”
Between spring and autumn, thousands of sea birds such as Cory’s shearwaters come to Desertas to nest. A small, endangered population of Desertas petrels, a species endemic to the islands, furthermore breeds on Bugio. “As the species only lays one egg, we carefully monitor their population annually,” says Alves and adds: “Bugio is free of rats, rabbits and goats because they were never introduced there. That’s why the seabird population is quite healthy on that island. On Deserta Grande, the resident goats would eat the seabirds and their chicks.” Even though there are no permanent settlements on the Desertas Islands, people have tried to make use of them throughout the last few centuries. During World War II, four watch posts were built to monitor enemy ships which were later used by whale hunters to spot cetaceans. In 1959 and 1961 two lighthouses were built respectively on Ilhéu Chão and Bugio. From the 15th until the 19th century, birds, rabbits, and goats were introduced to the island by passing seamen to provide fresh food. The impact of that time can still be seen today: Small cisterns and remnants of shelters are located on top of Deserta Grande, and goats have survived in the treacherous terrain to this day. Despite numerous controversial kill campaigns, the goats were able to hide away from humans in the steep rock faces of Deserta Grande.
As we circumnavigate the three volcanic islands, we’re scanning the water and beaches for signs of the monk seals – still to no avail. Considering we spotted a monk seal so close to shore on a busy Madeira beach just a few days earlier, I can’t help but wonder where they hide away from us. For me, it represents a perfect circle. After the seals have almost been hunted to extinction on Madeira and their natural habitat was occupied by man, they found a small refuge in the Desertas Islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Here, the population has been able to recover slightly in recent years, but can we keep human impacts in one of the last strongholds of Mediterranean monk seals at bay to protect them in the long-term?
UNDERWATER LOVE
The Maldives, Raja Ampat, Palau or Las Jardines de la Reina in Cuba – most divers and watersport enthusiasts are well-acquainted with the world’s most famous dive destinations. But all of these are relatively far-flung places for divers from around the European continent. On the one hand, us underwater photographers love the exotic flora and fauna that can be found in these destinations. On the other hand, we all want to travel shorter distances, while also enjoying warmer water and air temperatures, and witnessing the beauty of a new underwater world. After years of travelling and scouring the seas for dive destinations, I have found a place that seems to have it all.
I’m talking about an island that has a special place in my heart: Madeira. Located in the Atlantic Ocean southwest of Portugal and northwest of the Canary Islands, the Portuguese island can be reached easily by mainland Europe. When I first visited the island, I was mesmerised by its lush topside nature, but it was below the surface, that I fell in love.
Not only did I encounter a diverse ecosystem here with an abundance of marine life, I also found crystal-clear water with excellent visibility – a muchwelcomed plus for underwater photographers, as well as volcanic rock formations, tunnels and caves that all present great photo opportunities. Marine life is abundant here; you can encounter colourful fish, many crustaceans, sea turtles, whales, dolphins, and much more.
The population of Madeira is around 260.000 but the Island hosts more than 2 million tourists annually. Stunning scenery, year-round mild climate, hiking, canyoning, surfing, and whale watching along with wine and amazing cuisine are some of the reasons why the island is such a popular tourist destination. However, for us scuba divers, the island has also a lot to offer. Due to the island’s mild climate, the water temperature sits at a comfortable 18°C to 25°C depending on the season. This means that diving centres never really close and visitors can dive year-round, while numerous different dive sites around the archipelago cater for all levels of divers, from beginners to experts.
In 2022, the CMAS (the Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques or the World Underwater
Federation in English) organised the European Championship of Underwater Photography and Video in Madeira and in 2021 hosted the World Championship on the neighbouring island of Porto Santo. Before and during these events, I visited the islands many times to inspect all the dive sites.
I was amazed to see the diversity of marine life you can find when diving. Picture small skeleton shrimps on nearly every dive, anemones in red, pink, and green hues, shrimps, and an abundance of fish. Some of my favourite dive sites around Madeira are Baixa da Cruz, Baixa das Moreias, Tres Marias, Galo, and Pitanga, but my absolute favourites are Afonso Cerqueira Wreck and Garajau.
The Afonso Cerqueira Wreck was sunk in 2018 to create an artificial reef. It now hosts a variety of animals and parts of the wreck are extremely colorful. The ship’s bottom part lies on the sandy ocean floor at 33 metres, but shallower parts from 12 to 24 metres are well worth visiting too as they are full of life. Divers can spot large cannons that look like they’re ready to shoot, all while playful triggerfish that live in the wreck likes to observe the divers. These fish sometimes sit at the bow of the sunken wreck, posing for you. As a photographer, they will give you the perfect opportunity to try out and test all photographic techniques you may want to use because they will be around you all the time.
My other favourite is the Garajau Partial Marine Reserve – a heaven for underwater photographers. Divers can spot stingrays, moray eels, barracudas, trumpetfish, parrotfish, plenty of baitfish, and a large family of groupers here. I visited Garajau four times in May, in June, and in October and the groupers were always the first ones to welcome me.
Imagine a metre-long grouper rising from the depths to meet you halfway through your dive. It’s a great experience! I dived with many big groupers in my life but I never witnessed any so curious and friendly as the ones here.
If you’re looking for a mild climate and great marine life a short distance from Europe, Madeira might be your best bet. For me, the island will always have a special place in my heart because of the amazing time I had with the locals – both above and below the water.
“I was mesmerised by the island's lush topside nature, but it was below the surface, that I fell in love.”
About Kerim KerimSabuncuoğlustudiedbusiness administrationandcurrentlyresides in Istanbul where he owns an event managementcompany.Attheageof 20,hefellinlovewithscubadivingand has since become an avid underwater photographerthathasmadeaname forhimselfintheindustry.Hewon the‘ConservationPhotographerof the Year’ award in the 2021 Ocean PhotographeroftheYearandhasbeen chosenasajurymemberfornumerous internationalphotographycompetitions. Since 2017, he has been the director of CMAS (World Underwater Federation) VisualCommission.Hisphotosaresold atcontemporaryauctionsandhave beenpublishedinseveralnewspapers andmagazines.
A redbacked cleaner shrimp.
AN INGENIOUS system
On Madeira, adventure awaits behind every corner, whether you’re in the water or on land. Up in the mountains, hiking enthusiasts can explore the island’s ancient irrigation channels, the Levadas, while taking in the spectacular natural beauty of an ancient forest.
Words by Nane Steinhoff
Our small rental car huffs and puffs as it climbs its way up the steep, sloping roads. We pass sleepyeyed children in school uniforms queuing at bus stops and roadside shops that offer steaming breakfast items. We marvel at vast vineyards and banana plantations covering the steep terrain, while the air that is streaming through the partially opened window is getting significantly cooler by the minute. A short while ago, we left the bustling roads of Funchal in complete darkness; now we’re on our way into the mountainous hinterland to explore the more natural side of Madeira. As the sun slowly rises and casts its first rays over the island, I gaze across the lush forests that are dotted across the high peaks. Thousands and thousands of trees are wrapped in morning mist, while various birds flutter around and call out in weird and wonderful tones I’ve never heard before. I smell fresh eucalyptus and figure out quickly that hiking the Levadas of Madeira will be quite a sensory experience.
55km long,and 22km wide,
Madeira boasts a 144-km-long coastline which makes it the perfect destination for surfers, swimmers, sailors, divers, and other water sport enthusiasts. Further away from the popular beaches, however, on higher altitudes, visitors can experience the living and breathing heart of Madeira which, quite literally, feeds the entire island. Ruivo Peak, Madeira’s highest point, sits at 1,861 metres above sea level. While hiking fans can climb up this mountain, it is also the numerous other hiking trails around the island that attract hikers of all experience levels. From gorgeous valley views to adventurous peak ascents and lush forest walks, there is a hike to choose for everyone. Most visitors will tell you that the true hiking highlights are the Levada walks. With around 150 different Levadas to choose from, these iconic walking trails have attracted walkers from across the globe.
Fundamental to Madeiran identity, the Levadas are an elaborate network of man-made aqueducts or irrigation channels that helped colonise Madeira. As inhabitants of an isolated island in the middle of the Atlantic, inhabitants had to think of ingenious ways to sustain themselves. The term Levada comes from the Portuguese word ‘levar’ – to carry. And that is precisely what they’re meant to do: The first Levadas were built by farmers as early as the 15th century as a means to carry excess rainwater from the interior of the island to agricultural fields all around Madeira. Back then, the agricultural activities mainly revolved around sugar cane; a crop that led to Madeira becoming one of Europe’s largest producers and exporter of sugars in the second half of the 15th century. This impressive milestone would not
PREVIOUS: One of the ancient irrigation channels. THIS PAGE: Tiago Afonso, a freelance hiking guide, sits on top of a waterfall.
“Due
to the island’s topography, various microclimates dominate the region.”
“In this time of global reckoning the island's connection to the sea has proved as important to its people now as it was 75 years ago.”
Hiking through the protected Laurisilva Forest.
have been possible without the Levadas that channelled water from the top of the mountains to the agricultural fields. Building the Levada network on the steep terrain of the island was no easy feat. Men on suspended ropes had to build the channels along steep mountain tops and through deep tunnels by hand. The idea behind the hard work was ingenious, however. Due to the island’s topography, various microclimates dominate the region. While Madeira’s mountainous areas are colder and rainier due to winds coming in from the north-east, they are generally seen as unfit for agricultural cultivation. On the other hand, areas in lower altitudes tend to boast arable land, plenty of sunshine and a dry climate without much rain. The irrigation channels brought the two together by making use of the rainfall in the mountains to feed the fields.
Today, the network of Levadas
encompasses around 3,100km of waterways, of which around 80km pass through tunnels. Most of them are still in working order and the island continues to rely on them as water is transported “for human consumption, agricultural purposes and the production of electrical energy” through hydroelectric plants, according to UNESCO. Apart from these practical uses, they have become a major tourist attraction as the Levada network allows for spectacular walks that showcase first-hand why Madeira is often called the Hawaii of Europe.
“The Levadas really show you the natural beauty of the island with which I fell in love a couple of years ago,” says Tiago Afonso who works as a freelance hiking guide. “I came for a holiday, but ended up staying for good,” he smiles. Tiago who is our appointed guide today has chosen the famous Rabaçal and Levada das 25 Fontes for us. Rabaçal sits at the heart of a beautiful forest and harbours many Levadas; the perfect starting point for our Levada exploration. We start our walk in an aromatic eucalyptus tree forest which, as Tiago points out, is not native to Portugal. After eucalyptus was introduced to the island because it grows so quickly and efficiently, it swiftly spread across the island, displacing native species. As they’re highly inflammable and heighten the risk of wildfires in areas where they’re present, the Madeiran government is currently testing initiatives to reduce the number of eucalyptus trees on the island.
A dark tunnel, the Calheta Tunnel, suddenly opens up in front of us on our trail. Tiago tells us to put our phone lights on to see where we’re stepping. Lichens, moss and cascading ferns cover the wet stone walls in the entrance before the light diminishes entirely. As we step into the darkness, it gets colder the deeper we go into the
TOP: A school of circling rainbow trouts.
BOTTOM LEFT: Hiking through the Laurisilva Forest.
BOTTOM RIGHT: The entrance of the Calheta Tunnel.
800m-long tunnel. On the right hand side, a Levada can be seen in the dim light that my phone emits. For the next few hours, we will follow the Levadas that are no more than a metre wide and between 50 to 60cm deep. On the other end of the tunnel, we have to balance on the side wall of a Levada to cross a river, before we pass lichen-covered trees that appear hundreds of years old. We pick wild strawberries from the ground and marvel at unprecedented ocean views. From time to time, we spot glimpses of the grand valley that is covered by lush green trees as far as the eye can see. They together form part of the Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage
“There are over 100 endemic flowering plants on Madeira, and many are hidden within the Laurisilva Forest.”
Site within the Parque Natural da Madeira (Madeira Natural Park).
Covering around 15,000 hectares or 20% of Madeira, this special forest can primarily be found in higher altitudes. According to UNESCO, “the Laurisilva of Madeira is an outstanding relict of a previously widespread laurel forest type” which existed around 20 million years ago. 90% of it is still considered primary forest and it “is the largest surviving area of laurel forest” that today can only be found on the Azores, Madeira and the Canary Islands. As we criss-cross the protected forest that hosts Azorean laurel, Canary holly, tree heather, Madeira elder, as well as Madeira mahogany, a variety of ferns and mosses, and many more species, we spot a number of beautiful flowers, some rare endemic plants, and even see one of the two endemic birds that call the forest their home – the Madeiran laurel pigeon. “There are over 100 endemic flowering plants on Madeira, and many are hidden within the Laurisilva Forest,” explains Tiago.
Not only harbouring many ecological niches and refuges for endemic plants and species, the highly humid laurel forest is often called the ‘waterproducing forest’. It plays a crucial role in the island’s hydrological balance and helps feed the Levadas. While 40% of the water in the Levadas directly comes
from rainwater, the trees here indirectly feed 60% of water into them by absorbing fog and putting the resulting water mass into the soil and thus, the Levada network.
Along our hike, we see the wilted remnants of once blooming flowers everywhere. Between March and June, a bit earlier in the year than we have come, the sub-tropical climate allows for most flowers to be in full bloom. Tiago tells us that big bulbed blue agapanthus then sit on slopes everywhere, while aloe vera shows off its red flowers, and visitors can marvel at several orchid species, the Madeira viperine, geraniums, the bright, flowering bird of paradise, and hydrangeas, amongst other fascinating species.
Around the next corner, the forest suddenly opens up in front of us and reveals a waterfall on the other side of the valley – the stunning, 100-metre-tall Risco waterfall, the largest on Madeira. The dazzling green combined with the loud gushing of the falling water masses makes for a great experience. We continue and have to climb up some stairs, before we reach the 25 Fontes waterfall, called after the number of water springs gushing out the rock. Here, the waterfall and the 24 springs fall into an alluring lagoon that is covered by lush ferns and big boulders.
Next, Tiago takes us on a more secluded route. After taking a small break at the Rabaçal Nature Spot Cottage and Cafe, a well-known café and bookable B&B amidst nature and with glorious views, our guide leads us up even more steep steps. My legs almost give in as we take the last step. “It’ll be worth it,” he promises, laughing.
Suddenly, a secluded pool lies in front of us. As we dunk our tired legs in the ice-cold water, I notice a quick movement in the corner of my eye and spot a school of fish swimming in unison. “There are rainbow trouts all over the levadas,” explains Tiago after seeing my surprised face. “Farmers introduced them as a protein source in the past and they continue to reproduce naturally throughout the extensive network.” Yet another ingenious way of Madeirans to sustain themselves without the need for outside help.
While the best time to go hiking on Madeira is between September and November when temperatures start to become a bit cooler, some Levadas trails are open all year. During the rainy season in January and February, some waterfalls might flood the trails and they get shut. That’s why it is advised to check the status of the trails year around. Tiago adds: “Some people even come for snow hikes in winter. There’s so much to discover here – and it never quite looks the same.”
threatened giants HOME OF
Words by Nuno Vasco Rodrigues
Madeira is home to breathtaking landscapes, year-round sunshine, delicious food, and fortified wine, and is known as the birthplace of world-famous football player Cristiano Ronaldo. There is, however, another reason Madeira is well known, at least among the scuba diving community: the groupers from Garajau.
arajau is the Portuguese popular name for the common tern, a small marine bird relatively common on the island. It’s also the name of a Marine Protected Area (MPA) located south of Madeira Island and the story behind its creation is an inspiring one. A group of local citizens, concerned by the rapid loss of biodiversity and abundance of marine life in the coastal waters of the island, started pressuring the regional government to do something to slow down unsustainable local fishing practices. They proposed the creation of the Garajau MPA. Given its prime location on the south side of the island, only a few minutes from the capital of Funchal, it is sheltered from the prevailing winds from the north and sports a noticeable biological richness and crystal-clear waters all year round. These key ingredients were enough to convince the local regional government to officially declare it a protected area in 1986. They named it the Garajau Natural Reserve and it was the first exclusively Marine Protected Area in Portugal.
Once declared a natural reserve, all extracting activities, such as fishing and spearfishing, were prohibited which led to an increased abundance and diversity of marine life. As a result, watersports became more popular, and more and more scuba divers and snorkellers were attracted to the area which stretches along the coastline for 6 miles and reaches depths of 50 metres. Madeira is composed of rocky cliffs and, at sea level, the coast is made up of small pebble beaches interspersed with rocky areas and caves. Much of this substrate has steep slopes, and several rocky platforms, some of which have various enclaves that become tide pools during low tide when the platforms are submerged.
The seafloor is mostly rocky, with irregular reefs and outcrops down to approximately 30 metres. Beyond that, sandy flats as far as the eye can see reach into the deep. The Garajau Natural Reserve has worked as a natural laboratory for science, and numerous studies, mostly led by researchers of the local university, have been developed in the area, particularly about marine life and the impact that the creation of the marine reserve has had. All studies conclude that the marine reserve led to an
increase in the abundance and mean size of fish and invertebrates, playing a critical role in the protection of marine life. They also argue that it is an important breeding ground for several species, contributing to the maintenance of local aquatic populations and the health of the region's marine ecosystems.
This very abundance of marine life and supposedly pristine ecosystem is precisely what many scuba divers and ocean lovers look for. As such, the word ‘Garajau’ has spread relatively fast among the scuba diving community worldwide. Getting to Garajau is quite easy: all dive operators that are spread around the island go to the marine reserve by boat on a daily basis. Booking a couple days in advance is advised, so that dive operators can book a slot. “Only a small number of boats are allowed at a time inside the MPA, and dive operators are required to pay a small fee for each diver to the Instituto das Florestas e Conservação da Natureza (Forests and Nature Conservation Institute),” says Pedro Gomes, owner of Scorpio, one of the dive operators in Madeira. “The institute regulates, monitors, and supervises diving activities in the MPAs of Madeira. The fees applied are an important contribution to the financial effort needed to carry out this work,” adds Paulo Oliveira, member of this institution’s Directive Council. Visitors can also access Garajau via road. The main beach is located on the bottom of a cliff which can be reached with a cable car that operates from the top of the hill, located 200 metres above. The ride down to the beach is smooth and takes less than five minutes. One of the best diving spots in Garajau is located approximately 50 metres from the beach and can be easily accessed by swimming to the big red buoy which marks the place to descend. As we follow the line down, large rocky boulders and sandy areas begin to emerge 15 metres below the surface. Some small size schooling fish show up in the water column to inspect the human invaders, before disappearing into the blue, as quickly as they showed up. When we arrive at the bottom, the effects of the protection in these waters become clear. Marine life is booming and there’s movement everywhere. Azores chromis and ornate wrasses stand out as the most abundant fish species. These relatively small, though brightlycoloured fish are a reminder that we’re not that far away from the tropics in Madeira. When the visibility is over 20 metres, which is relatively common in the area, it’s clear that most marine life tends to hang around the large rocky boulders. On the sandy
PREVIOUS: A dusky grouper rests on the seabed. THIS PAGE: A large male dusky grouper.
“A group of local citizens, concerned by the rapid loss of biodiversity and abundance of marine life in the coastal waters of the island, started pressuring the regional government.”
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MAIN: A school of ornate wrasses.
TOP: A Macaronesian sharpnose puffer. MIDDLE & BOTTOM: A barred hogfish.
PAGE: A club-tipped anemone, the largest anemone in Madeiran waters.
bottom, divers can find some different life forms such as large goatfish, often hanging in large groups, flatfish and stingrays. The latter are usually partially buried in the sand, and it is possible to get really close to them before they realise they’ve been spotted and quickly take off. While still on the sand, we spot numerous thin and elongated shapes projecting out of the sand, just a few metres ahead. They go up and down in a gracious movement, bending forward when sticking out, making the most of the gentle water flow. As we approach, they disappear instantly into the seafloor, before returning again once divers leave the area. Shy at first, they quickly regain their confidence and resume their ‘dance’. “Did you see the garden eels?,” asks Gomes after our dive.
Leaving the sandy bottom behind, we approach the rocky boulders. As they get closer, an intense movement starts, as fish start swimming away, feeling the human presence. A large school of bastard grunts starts to swim away from one of the rocky overhangs and moves to deeper waters, while some sea breams move in the opposite direction, heading closer to the shallows. Small pufferfish are also present, looking clumsy and swimming awkwardly, yet effectively away from us. At a distance, a couple of trumpetfish, apparently stationary, seem to control all operations around them, keeping a safe distance. Scanning the surface of the rocky boulders, I spot small blennies and gobies, and the Madeira rockfish, a scorpionfish that was originally described in this island.
Getting too close to the rocks isn’t advisable as they are covered with a beautiful yet stinging white hydroid that can cause unpleasant rashes if gloves are not on your gear list. While cruising between the rocky boulders, one of the most iconic fish species suddenly shows up - the beautiful barred hogfish. This species is endemic to Macaronesia, a group of islands composed of Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verde and the Azores. The fish is listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List - a result of several decades of overfishing, its reputation as a trophy in sport fishing and spearfishing, and its very limited geographic distribution. One of the most curious things about this species is that it presents sexual dimorphism, a condition where the male and female exhibit different colour patterns. Additionally, the species is
a sequential hermaphrodite, which means it changes sex at some point of their life. In this case, barred hogfish are born as females, eventually turning into males once adult. This biological feature makes this species even more susceptible to extinction as large animals are usually the targeted ones. This will greatly impact the sex ratio, compromising the survival of the species. Parrotfish, cow bream, blacktail comber and some interesting invertebrates such as arrow crabs and giant anemones are also common around the rocky substrates. In the water column, we observe schools of small and larger fish such as bogues, mackerel, almaco jacks and yellowmouth barracudas. The main attraction, however, are the famous dusky groupers. Weighing over 50 kilogrammes and measuring up to 1.5 metres in length, they are the stars of the show and the main reason why so many divers travel to Madeira. Once common throughout its original distribution range which includes Atlantic Europe, the Mediterranean Sea, the African coast and south Brazil, after decades of intense fishing pressure that pushed its population to frighteningly low numbers, this species is listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List. Today, to see these majestic giants, divers most likely have to go to MPAs, otherwise the odds of finding them are extremely narrow. The groupers of Garajau are so used to divers being around, that they frequently get extremely close, in what divers describe as “puppy-like behaviour”. “It’s the climax of this dive! People come out of the water ecstatic,” says Gomes. “Nowadays, it’s possible to see five or six different animals in one dive alone. So, I’d say it’s guaranteed that you’ll see them,” he adds.
Just like the hogfish, dusky groupers are sequential hermaphrodite. Originally females, they turn to males when they reach approximately 90 cm; the length of sex inversion varies with location. In Garajau, it’s clear that males and females are present as the fish sizes here range from approximately 40 cm to well over 1 metre in length. This is a clear indicator of a healthy ecosystem and shows that protection measures are working.
MPAs like the one here in Madeira play a crucial role in ocean conservation. The ocean would benefit from many more of them, if we want dusky groupers, hogfish and the other species we encountered on our
A giant anemone on a rock.
“Parrotfish, cow bream, blacktail comber and some interesting invertebrates such as arrow crabs and giant anemones are also common around the rocky substrates.”
